Hair styling composition

Abstract

The invention relates to an aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, b) one or more thickening agent(s) selected from the salts of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate at a concentration in the range of 0.5 to 10% by weight, and c) one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s), at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Description

[0001] HAIR STYLING COMPOSITION

[0002] Field of the invention

[0003] The invention relates to an aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C, one or more thickening agent(s), and one or more styling polymer(s).

[0004] Background of the invention

[0005] Curly consumers desire a defined, bouncy and cared hair look and hair feel. They desire defined curls with a plastic 3D-shape that feel cares and nourished in wet and dry finish. Curl products often contain a high concentration of oils to create nourished, soft, bundled and healthy-looking curls and waves in combination with a potent emulsifier to create a stable formulation. But without styling polymers, this bundling effect and the bounciness is rapidly lost after styling. The curl hangs out, appears limp, misses bounciness and looks unruly and frizzy due to the lack of curl definition. Typically, classic synthetic polymers are used to achieve curl retention and create long lasting, bouncy, defines curls.

[0006] There are several products on the market that try to address the customers’ needs mentioned above. KMS Curlllp Twisting Style Balm (Mintel ID: 9749428) is a curl product that contains a high concentration of castor oil and shea butter in combination with sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate but lacks a styling polymer.

[0007] Summary of the invention

[0008] Therefore, the first object of the present invention is an aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising: a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, b) one or more thickening agent(s) selected from the salts of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate at a concentration in the range of 0.5 to 10% by weight, and c) one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s), at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The second object of the present invention is a method of styling hair, wherein the composition according to any of the preceding claims is applied onto hair, especially wet or dry hair, and hair is dried / styled without rinsing off.

[0010] Third object of the present invention is a kit for hair comprising a composition according to any of the preceding claims and a hair styling tool such as a brush or a comb.

[0011] Detailed description of the invention

[0012] The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly and unexpectedly found that the combination of a high oil concentration with sodium acryloyldimethyl laurate and hydroxypropyl starch not only creates a deeply nourishing and long-term stable emulsion with style retention known from classical styling polymer like PVP or PVP / VA but also show an improved curl formation / bundling during the styling process and improves hair feel in wet and dry.

[0013] Aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers

[0014] The present invention is directed to an aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising: a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, b) one or more thickening agent(s) selected from the salts of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate at a concentration in the range of 0.5 to 10% by weight, and c) one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s), at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] Compound(s) according to group a) - Oil(s)

[0016] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more oil(s) being liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure as compound(s) according to group a). Preferably, said one or more oil(s) is selected from natural and synthetic oils, more preferably from natural oil(s), more preferably said natural oil(s) are castor oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter oil, argan oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, soya oil, passiflora oil, black cumin oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia oil, rosehip oil, hempseed oil, and / or their mixtures, still more preferably one or more oil(s) is / are selected from castor oil and / or shea butter oil or mixture thereof.

[0017] The total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a) in the composition of the present invention is in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] It is preferred that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a), more preferably the total concentration of one or more natural oil(s), is in the range of 2.5% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0% to 12.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5.0% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] Compound(s) according to group b) - Thickening agent(s)

[0020] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more thickening agent(s) selected from the salts of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate. Preferably, said salts are a sodium and / or an ammonium salt(s) of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or mixtures thereof, as compound(s) according to group b).

[0021] The composition of the present invention comprises the one or more compound(s) according to group b) at a concentration in the range of 0.5 to 10% by weight.

[0022] It is preferred that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group b) is in the range of 1 % to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 2% to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Compounds according to group c) - Styling polymer(s)

[0024] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s) as compound(s) according to group c). Preferably, said compound(s) is / are selected from natural or modified starch(es), more preferably from com starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, hydroxypropyl starch, and / or their mixtures, more, still more preferably the one or more styling polymer(s) is / are hydroxypropyl starch, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0025] It is preferred that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group c), preferably the total concentration of hydroxypropyl starch, is in the range of 2.5% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0% to 12.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5.0% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] It is further preferred from the viewpoint of the curling performance that the weight ratio of one or more compound(s) according to group a) to one or more compound(s) according to group c) is in the range of 0.2 to 5, preferably in the range of 0.3 to 3, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2.

[0027] It is preferred that the pH of the present invention is in the range of 5.0 to 7.0, more preferably in the range 5.5 to 7.0.

[0028] The composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition. Aqueous within the meaning of the present invention is that the composition comprises water at a total concentration of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 75% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] Additional hair styling polymer(s) different from group c)

[0030] The composition of the present invention may comprise one or more additional hair styling polymer(s) which is / are different from the compound according to group c), preferably one or more non-ionic or cationic hair styling polymer(s).

[0031] Suitable non-ionic hair styling polymers are vinylpyrrolidon polymers of either homopolymers or copolymers with, particularly, vinylacetate. Those are known with the trade name “Luviskol” as homopolymers Luviskol K 30, K 60 or K 90 as well copolymers Luviskol VA 55, VA 64, Plus from BASF AG and advantage LS-E from ISP.

[0032] Suitable cationic hair styling polymers are Polyquaternium 11 , Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 22 and Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 30, Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 36, Polyquaternium 46, Polyquaternium 24, Polyquaternium 67, and Polyquaternium 72, or additionally Polyquaternium-68 (PQ-68), carbohydrate modified amino silicones such as CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 (INCI name: Gluconamido amodimethicone (and) Coco-Glucoside), Amodimethicone and grafted aminated Amodimethicone derivatives (e.g., aminopropyl dimethicone, sold under the tradename X-52-2265; Dowsil 969; Belsil ADM 6057 E), Luviset Clear E, Chitosan.

[0033] Preferably, the total concentration of the one or more additional hair styling polymer(s) different from the one of group c) is 1 % by weight or less, preferably 0.75% by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] Surfactants

[0035] Optionally, the composition of the present invention may comprise one or more surfactant(s), preferably one or more non-ionic or cationic surfactant(s).

[0036] Suitable non-ionic surfactants are long-chain fatty acid mono- and dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid mono- or diethanolamide and myristic fatty acid mono or diethanolamide, stearic acid mono or diethanolamide, alkyl polyglucosides with an alkyl group of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and with 1 to 5 glucoside units, sorbitan esters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic, palmitic, myristic and lauric acid esters, fatty acid polyglycol esters or poly-condensates of ethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on the market, for example, under the trade name "PluronicsR", as well as fatty alcohol ethoxylates, C -C22-fatty alcohol ethoxylates, known by the generic terms "Laureth", "Myristeth", "Oleth", "Ceteth", "Deceth", "Steareth" and "Ceteareth" according to the CTFA nomenclature, including addition of the number of ethylene oxide molecules, e.g., "Laureth-16": The average degree of ethoxylation thereby ranges between about 2.5 and about 100, preferably about 10 and about 30.

[0037] Suitable cationic surfactants are cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl dimonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride, dioleoylethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0038] It is preferred that the composition of the present invention comprises one or more surfactant(s) at a concentration in the range of 0.1 % to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Aqueous hairstyling composition In one aspect of the present invention, the composition is an aqueous hair styling composition comprising a) one or more oil(s) selected from castor oil, shea oil, and / or their mixtures, at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 15% by weight, b) one or more sodium or ammonium salt(s) of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 5% by weight, and c) one or more hydroxypropyl starch(es) at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 10% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Method of styling hair

[0041] Another aspect of the present invention is a method of styling hair, wherein the composition as defined above is applied onto hair, especially wet or dry hair, and hair is dried / styled without rinsing off.

[0042] Preferably, the hair is dried with a hair dryer having an airflow temperature in the range of 80°C to 120°C.

[0043] Kit for keratin fibers

[0044] Still another aspect of the present invention is a kit for hair comprising a composition as defined above and a hair styling tool such as a brush or comb.

[0045] The following examples are to illustrate the invention, but not to limit it.

[0046] Examples

[0047] Table 1 Formulations with combination of a high oil concentration with sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate and hydroxypropyl starch or polymers like Polyquaternium (PQ-16) or PVP / VA copolymer or PVP.

[0048] Discussion of results

[0049] The formulation A comprising hydroxypropyl starch performed the best during the sensory evaluation by hairdressers. All properties like shine, curl formation & bundling, hair feel in wet and dry, and frizz showed superior results on the scale from one to five compared to the formulations including PQ-16, or PVPA / A copolymer, or only PVP (s. Table 1 ).

[0050] Methods

[0051] The effect was observed and confirmed by an expert panel. The “in vivo" sensory evaluation by hairdressers is a well-established method used since about 50 years in the test salon at Kao Germany GmbH. This type of sensory evaluation is an industry standard method for testing the properties of professional hair care products on human hair.

[0052] The standard sensory evaluation is executed on real hair models by well-trained hairdresser experts, which are specialized in specific product segments e.g., color, perm, styling, and care products to ensure the reliability and reproducibility of the tests. The evaluation of the formulations (s. Table 1 ) was conducted as monadic comparison on two different types of mannequin heads. Every head was analyzed by the hairdressers for each property (s. Table 1 ) on the scale between 1 and 5, wherein 1 stands for “bad”, 2 stands for “not good”, 3 stands for "medium”, 4 stands for "good”, and 5 stands for "very good” performance. Each mannequin head was evaluated by 10 stylists and a mean value was calculated (s. Table 1 ).

Claims

Claims1 . An aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising: a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, b) one or more thickening agent(s) selected from the salts of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate at a concentration in the range of 0.5 to 10% by weight, and c) one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s), at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1 characterized in that one or more oil(s) is selected from natural and synthetic oils, preferably from natural oil(s), more preferably said natural oil(s) are castor oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter oil, argan oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, soya oil, passiflora oil, black cumin oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia oil, rosehip oil, hempseed oil, and / or their mixtures, still more preferably one or more oil(s) is / are selected from castor oil and / or shea butter oil or mixture thereof.

3. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total concentration of one or more oil(s), preferably the total concentration of one or more natural oil(s), is in the range of 2.5% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0% to 12.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5.0% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the one or more thickening agent(s) is a sodium and / or an ammonium salt(s) of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total concentration of one or more thickening agent(s) according to group b) in the range of 1 % to 7.5% by weight, preferably 2% to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s) is / are selected from natural or modified starch(es), preferably from corn starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, hydroxypropyl starch, and / or their mixtures, more, preferably the one or more styling polymer(s) is / are hydroxypropyl starch, , and / or mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total concentration of one or more styling polymer(s) comprising one or more carbohydrate monomer unit(s), preferably the total concentration of hydroxypropyl starch, is in the range of 2.5% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 5.0% to 12.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5.0% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of one or more compound(s) according to group a) to one or more compound(s) according to group c) is in the range of 0.2 to 5, preferably in the range of 0.3 to 3, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2.

9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it has a pH in the range of 5.0 to 7.0, preferably in the range 5.5 to 7.0.

10. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises one or more additional hair styling polymer(s) which is / are different from the compound according to group c), preferably one or more non-ionic or cationic hair styling polymer(s), and more preferably the total concentration of the one or more additional hair styling polymer(s) 1 % by weight or less, preferably 0.75% by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the composition11 .The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises one or more surfactant(s) at a concentration in the range of 0.1 % to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total concentration of water in the composition is 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 75% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

13. An aqueous hair styling composition according to any of the preceding claims comprising a) one or more oil(s) selected from castor oil, shea oil, and / or their mixtures, at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 15% by weight, b) one or more sodium or ammonium salt(s) of polyacryloyldimethyl taurate at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 5% by weight, and c) one or more hydroxypropyl starch(es) at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 10% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

14. Method of styling hair, wherein the composition according to any of the preceding claims is applied onto hair, especially wet or dry hair, and hair is dried / styled without rinsing off.

15. Kit for hair comprising a composition according to any of the preceding claims and a hair styling tool such as a brush or a comb.

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