Hair styling composition

Abstract

An aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising: a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 60% by weight, b) calcium sulphate as pulverulent excipient at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 30% by weight, preferably 7.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 7.5 to 15% by weight, and, c) one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) at a total concentration in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Description

[0001] HAIR STYLING COMPOSITION

[0002] Field of the invention

[0003] The present invention relates to an aqueous composition for styling human hair, a method, and a kit of styling hair.

[0004] Background of the invention

[0005] Styling compositions that are easy to apply and do not only provide long-lasting style retention but also a texturizing and mattifying effect are an ongoing trend and are desired by the customer. Ideally, the styling composition e.g., a wax, clay or paste, provides a matte and dry but non-greasy appearance. Oils are an ideal base for a long- lasting styling composition, as it provides a desirable styling effect due to its tactile, slightly sticky effect while protecting the hair from humidity. Additionally, its natural origin plays into the current sustainability trend. Therefore, a high concentration of oil is desired from the viewpoint of the styling effect. Unfortunately, this can lead to an undesired oily or greasy shine, and unpleasant oily feel during application and an instable formulation.

[0006] Summary of the invention

[0007] Therefore, the first object of the present invention is an aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising: a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 60% by weight, b) calcium sulphate as pulverulent excipient at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 30% by weight, preferably in the range of 7.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 7.5% to 15% by weight, and, c) one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) at a total concentration in the range of 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 1 % to 5% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition. The second object of the present invention is a method of styling hair wherein the composition described above is applied onto hair, especially wet or dry hair, and hair is dried or styled without rinsing off.

[0008] The third object of the present invention is a kit for hair styling comprising a composition described above and a hair styling tool, such as a brush or a comb.

[0009] Detailed description of the invention

[0010] The inventors of the present invention surprisingly and unexpectedly found that the above-mentioned negative side effects of oils in higher concentrations can be counteracted by combining it with calcium sulfate and sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate. This provides a long-term stable emulsion, a pleasant consistency during application and matte finish. These effects were also present if castor oil is combined with other fatty substances of natural or synthetic character such as triglycerides, silicone oils, mineral oils, petrolatum, or carnauba wax.

[0011] Therefore, the present invention is directed to an aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising: a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 60% by weight, b) calcium sulphate as pulverulent excipient at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 30% by weight, preferably in the range of 7.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 7.5% to 15% by weight, and, c) one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) at a total concentration in the range of 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 1 % to 5% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] Compound(s) according to group a) - Oil(s)

[0013] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more oil(s) being liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure as compound(s) according to group a). Preferably, said one or more oil(s) is selected from natural and synthetic oils, preferably from natural oil(s), more preferably said natural oil(s) are castor oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter oil, argan oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, soya oil, passiflora oil, black cumin oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia oil, rosehip oil, hempseed oil, and / or their mixtures, still more preferably one or more oil(s) is / are selected from castor oil and / or shea butter oil or mixture thereof.

[0014] The total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a) in the composition of the present invention is in the range of 5% to 60% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] It is preferred that the total concentration of one or more natural oil(s) is in the range of 10% to 50% by weight, preferably in the range of 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 40% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 30% to 40% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Compound according to group b) - Calcium sulfate

[0017] The composition of the present invention comprises calcium sulfate as pulverulent excipient in particle form.

[0018] Suitable particle sizes for calcium sulfate powder are in the range of 1 pm to 250 pm, preferably in the range of 5 pm to 100 pm, more preferably in the range of 10 pm to 80 pm, determined by light microscopy.

[0019] The total concentration of calcium sulphate is in the range of 5% to 30% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] It is preferred that the total concentration of calcium sulphate is in the range of 7.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 7.5% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] Compound(s) according to group c) - Surfactant(s)

[0022] The composition of present invention comprises one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) as compound(s) according to group c). It is preferred that the composition of the present invention comprises one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) with the following general structures A or B:

[0023] R2ARrN-R3X-

[0024] R4wherein Ri is / are a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain(s) with 10 to 22 C atoms or, wherein Rs is saturated or unsaturated, straight, or branched alkyl chain with 11 to 21 C atoms and n has value of 1 to 4 or, wherein Re is saturated or unsaturated, straight, or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 21 C atoms and n has value of 1 to 4, and R2, R3 and R4are alkyl chains with 1 to 4 C atoms, and X is chloride, bromide, methosulfate, and

[0025] Ri

[0026] B / N-R3

[0027] R2wherein R1 , R2, and R3 are same as above, and / or their salt(s).

[0028] It is preferred that one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) according to group c) is / are selected from stearamidopropyl dimethyl amine, cetrimonium chloride, behenamidopropyl dimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl dimethyl amine, behentrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, (ester compounds should be added) and the list extended:, more preferably the cationic and / or cationizable surfactant is stearamidopropyl dimethyl amine, behenamidopropyl dimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl dimethyl amin, and / or its salt(s).

[0029] The composition of the present invention comprises the one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) at a total concentration in the range of 0.1 % to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] It is preferred that the composition of the present invention comprises the one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) at a total concentration in the range of 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 1 % to 5% by weight, calculated to total weight of the composition.

[0031] It is preferred that the composition of the present invention has a pH in the range of 5.0 to 8.0, more preferably in the range of 5.5 to 8.0, still more preferably in the range of 5.5 to 7.0.

[0032] The composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition. Aqueous within the meaning of the present invention is that the composition comprises water at a total concentration of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 75% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Additional hair styling polymers

[0034] The composition of the present invention may comprise one or more hair styling polymer(s), preferably one or more non-ionic and / or cationic hair styling polymer(s).

[0035] Suitable non-ionic hair styling polymers are vinylpyrrolidon polymers of either homopolymers or copolymers with, particularly, vinylacetate. Those are known with the trade name “Luviskol” as homopolymers Luviskol K 30, K 60 or K 90 as well copolymers Luviskol VA 55, VA 64, Plus from BASF AG and advantage LS-E from ISP.

[0036] Suitable cationic hair styling polymers are Polyquaternium 11 , Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 22 and Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 30, Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 36, Polyquaternium 46, Polyquaternium 24, Polyquaternium 67, and Polyquaternium 72, or additionally Polyquaternium-68 (PQ-68), carbohydrate modified amino silicones such as CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 (INCI name: Gluconamido amodimethicone (and) Coco-Glucoside), Amodimethicone and grafted aminated Amodimethicone derivatives (e.g., aminopropyl dimethicone, sold under the tradename X-52-2265; Dowsil 969; Belsil ADM 6057 E), Luviset Clear E, Chitosan.

[0037] Preferably, the total concentration of the one or more additional hair styling polymer(s) different from the one of group c) is 1 % by weight or less, preferably 0.75% by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Additional surfactants

[0039] Optionally, the composition of the present invention may comprise one or more surfactant(s), preferably one or more non-ionic or cationic surfactant(s).

[0040] Suitable non-ionic surfactants are long-chain fatty acid mono- and dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid mono- or diethanolamide and myristic fatty acid mono or diethanolamide, stearic acid mono or diethanolamide, alkyl polyglucosides with an alkyl group of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and with 1 to 5 glucoside units, sorbitan esters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic, palmitic, myristic and lauric acid esters, fatty acid polyglycol esters or poly-condensates of ethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on the market, for example, under the trade name "PluronicsR", as well as fatty alcohol ethoxylates, C -C22-fatty alcohol ethoxylates, known by the generic terms "Laureth", "Myristeth", "Oleth", "Ceteth", "Deceth", "Steareth" and "Ceteareth" according to the CTFA nomenclature, including addition of the number of ethylene oxide molecules, e.g., "Laureth-16": The average degree of ethoxylation thereby ranges between about 2.5 and about 100, preferably about 10 and about 30.

[0041] Suitable cationic surfactants are cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl dimonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride, dioleoylethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0042] It is preferred that the composition of the present invention comprises one or more surfactant(s) at a concentration in the range of 0.1 % to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Viscosity

[0044] The composition of the present invention preferably has a viscosity of 50,000 mPas or more, preferably the viscosity is in the range of 50,000 mPas to 500,000 mPas, measured at 23°C with a viscometer such as a Brookfield RV with spindle #5 of the type 94 and 95 were used.

[0045] Weight ration - group a) to group c)

[0046] It is preferred that the weight ratio of compound(s) according to group a) to compound(s) according to group c) is in the range of 50 to 0.5, preferably in the range of 30 to 1 , more preferably in the range of 20 to 5.

[0047] Aqueous hair styling composition

[0048] An aqueous hair styling composition of the present invention comprising: a) one or more castor oil and / or shea oil at a total concentration in the range of 30% to 40% by weight, b) calcium sulphate as pulverulent excipient at a total concentration in the range of 7.5 to 15% by weight, and, c) one or more stearamidopropyl dimethlamine at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 5% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Method of styling hair

[0050] Another aspect of the present invention is a method of styling hair wherein the composition as defined above is applied onto hair, especially wet or dry hair, and hair is dried or styled without rinsing off.

[0051] Preferably, the hair is dried with a hair dryer having an airflow temperature in the range of 80°C to 120°C.

[0052] Kit for keratin fibers

[0053] Still another aspect of the present invention is a kit for hair styling comprising a composition as defined above and a hair styling tool, such as a brush or a comb.

[0054] The following examples are to illustrate the invention, but not to limit it. Examples

[0055] Table 1 Formulation B according to the present invention comprising calcium sulfate and comparative formulations (A, C, D, E, F) without any component according to group b) (Comp. A), or with rice starch (Comp. C), or with bentonite (Comp. D), or with tapioca starch (Comp. E), or with hydrated silica (Comp. F). The results of the evaluation by the expert panel are included in the lower part of the table.

[0056] Discussion of results

[0057] The inventive formulation (B) comprising calcium sulfate performed the best during the sensory evaluation by hairdressers. All properties like consistency, application of wet / dry hair, matte effect, and formula stability showed superior results on the scale from one to five compared to the formulations including rice starch (C), or bentonite (D), or tapioca starch (E), or hydrated silica (F), or formulation without any of these components (A). Methods

[0058] The effect was observed and confirmed by an expert panel. The “in vivo" sensory evaluation by hairdressers is a well-established method used since about 50 years in the test salon at Kao Germany GmbH. This type of sensory evaluation is an industry standard method for testing the properties of professional hair care products on human hair.

[0059] The standard sensory evaluation is executed on real hair models by well-trained hairdresser experts, which are specialized in specific product segments e.g., color, perm, styling, and care products to ensure the reliability and reproducibility of the tests. The evaluation of the formulations (s. Table 1 ) was conducted as monadic comparison on two different types of mannequin heads. Every head was analyzed by the hairdressers for each property (s. Table 1 ) on the scale between 1 and 5, wherein 1 stands for “bad”, 2 stands for “not good”, 3 stands for "medium”, 4 stands for "good”, and 5 stands for "very good” performance. Each mannequin head was evaluated by 10 stylists and a mean value was calculated (s. Table 1 ).

Claims

Claims1 . An aqueous composition for styling keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising: a) one or more oil(s) liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 60% by weight, b) calcium sulphate as pulverulent excipient at a total concentration in the range of 5% to 30% by weight, preferably in the range of 7.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 7.5% to 15% by weight, and, c) one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) at a total concentration in the range of 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 1 % to 5% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1 characterized in that one or more oil(s) is selected from natural and synthetic oils, preferably from natural oil(s), more preferably said natural oil(s) are castor oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter oil, argan oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, soya oil, passiflora oil, black cumin oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia oil, rosehip oil, hempseed oil, and / or their mixtures, still more preferably one or more oil(s) is / are selected from castor oil and / or shea butter oil or mixture thereof.

3. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total concentration of one or more oil(s), preferably the total concentration of one or more natural oil(s), is in the range of 10% to 50% by weight, preferably in the range of 15% to 45% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 40% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 30% to 40% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that composition comprises the calcium sulfate as pulverulent excipient in particle form.

5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant(s) with the following general structures A or B:wherein R1 is / are a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain(s) with 10 to 22 C atoms or,wherein Rs is saturated or unsaturated, straight, or branched alkyl chain with11 to 21 C atoms and n has value of 1 to 4 or,wherein Re is saturated or unsaturated, straight, or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 21 C atoms and n has value of 1 to 4, andR2, RS and R4are alkyl chains with 1 to 4 C atoms, and X is chloride, bromide, methosulfate, andRiB / N— R3R2wherein Ri, R2, and R3 are same as above, and / or their salt(s).

6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that one or more cationic and / or cationizable surfactant is selected from stearamidopropyl dimethyl amine, cetrimonium chloride, behenamidopropyl dimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl dimethyl amine, behentrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, more preferably the cationic and / or cationizable surfactant is stearamidopropyl dimethyl amine, behenamidopropyl dimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl dimethyl amin, and / or its salt(s).

7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it has a pH in the range of 5.0 to 8.0, more preferably in the range of 5.5 to 8.0, still more preferably in the range of 5.5 to 7.0.

8. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises one or more hair styling polymer(s), preferably one or more non-ionic and / or cationic hair styling polymer(s).

9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises one or more additional surfactant selected from non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants.

10. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it has a viscosity of 50,000 mPas or more, preferably the viscosity is in the range of 50,000 mPas to 500,000 mPas, measured at 23°C with a viscometer such as a Brookfield RV with spindle #5 of the type 94 and 95 were used.11 .The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of compound(s) according to group a) to compound(s) according to group c) is in the range of 50 to 0.5, preferably in the range of 30 to 1 , more preferably in the range of 20 to 5.

12. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total concentration of water is 70% by weight or less, preferably the total concentration of water is in the range of 10% by weight to 70% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 65% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 30% to 65% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

13. An aqueous hair styling composition according to any of the preceding claims comprising: a) one or more castor oil and / or shea oil at a total concentration in the range of 30% to 40% by weight, b) calcium sulphate as pulverulent excipient at a total concentration in the range of 7.5 to 15% by weight, and, c) one or more stearamidopropyl dimethlamine at a total concentration in the range of 1 % to 5% by weight, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total weight of the composition.

14. Method of styling hair wherein the composition according to any of the preceding claims is applied onto hair, especially wet or dry hair, and hair is dried or styled without rinsing off.

15. Kit for hair styling comprising a composition according to any of the preceding claims and a hair styling tool, such as a brush or a comb.

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