Linseed oil concentrated in unsaponifiables, and uses thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to a lipid extract of linseed oil, Linum usitatissimum, which is concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, to the method for preparing same, and to a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising a suitable excipient and the lipid extract. The invention also relates to an extract or a composition of this kind, for use thereof in preventing or treating disorders or diseases of the skin, the mucous membranes or the hair and nails. Finally, the invention relates to a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic care of dry skin, preferably skin which feels tight, comprising the topical or oral administration, preferably topical administration, of an extract or a composition of this kind.

Description

[0001]DESCRIPTIONTITLE: LINSEED OIL CONCENTRATED IN UNSAPONIFIABLES AND ITS APPLICATIONSFIELD OF THE INVENTIONThe invention relates to a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, as well as a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising a suitable excipient and said lipid extract. The invention also relates to a process for preparing a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, as well as the concentrate capable of being obtained by said process. The invention also relates to such a composition or such a concentrate (i.e. an oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction) for use in the prevention or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes or appendages.The invention also relates to such an extract for its use in the prevention or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes or appendages. The invention finally relates to a method for cosmetic care of the skin, appendages or mucous membranes, with a view to improving their condition or appearance, consisting of administering such a composition or such an extract, in particular in order to improve the physical / physiological and psychological well-being of the user. The invention also relates to such a composition for its use in order to improve the structure and appearance of the epidermis and the dermis. STATE OF THE ART Flax is a self-pollinating dicotyledon that belongs to the Linaceae family and the genus Linum. Throughout the world, there are approximately 200 species of flax, most of which are wild. For thousands of years, the peoples of Central Asia, the Egyptians, the Greeks and the Gauls have favored the development of a species called usitatissimum.This cultivated flax (Linum usitatissimum L.), very different from its ancestors, is an annual species. Flax varieties differ depending on whether fiber or oil is to be extracted from them. In general, fiber varieties are taller (one meter) than those intended for harvesting seeds for oil extraction. The seeds are smooth, flat, oblong, small and light (between 4 and 7 grams per thousand grains) and brown in color when ripe. They end in a slightly curved beak. Flax seed is rich in oil, which represents 35 to 50% of its dry mass. Linolenic acid (omega 3) can represent 55 to 75% of the fatty acids that make up this oil. In terms of properties, although omega-3 fatty acids have been associated with improved cardiovascular blood flow, human trial results are mixed regarding the effectiveness of flaxseed products for coronary artery disease or hyperlipidemia.The therapeutic effect of linseed oil on acute and chronic arthritis in albino rats has been reported, as well as anti-ulcer activity in animal models. Antimicrobial activity has been reported in the case of bovine mastitis. The Applicant has discovered that a brown linseed oil, Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in unsaponifiables, also called "concentrate", has cosmetic and dermatological properties never described before. In particular, this is the first time that linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction has been used as such, for its specific properties, such as a remarkable anti-aging effect, hair protection and in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to the epidermal tissue.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a lipid extract of Linum usitatissimum flax seed oil, characterized in that said lipid extract is a flax oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, containing from 1.5% to 100%, advantageously 2.5% to 100%, preferably 3.5% to 100%, more preferably 4% to 100% by weight of unsaponifiables, relative to the total weight of the extract. According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing an extract according to the invention, comprising the following successive steps: a) molecular distillation of a crude or refined Linumusitatissimum flax seed oil; b) where appropriate, extraction of the unsaponifiable; c) recovery of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiables obtained following step a) or of the unsaponifiables obtained following step b) ;d) optionally a step of deodorization and / or decolorization of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter or of the unsaponifiable matter.According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a composition comprising, as active ingredient, a lipid extract of flax seed oil Linum usitatissimum according to the invention and a suitable excipient. According to a fourth aspect, the invention relates to a composition or an extract according to the invention, for its use as, or in, a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical composition or as a food supplement.According to a fifth aspect, the invention relates to an extract or a composition according to the invention, for its use in preventing and / or treating disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, advantageously inflammatory reactions, disorders linked to intrinsic or extrinsic stress such as psychological stress, stress linked to a state of anxiety, stress linked to radical attacks linked or not to chemical or atmospheric pollution, and / or linked to exposure to UV or IR, disorders of the barrier or homeostasis, photosensitized skin, mechanical and / or thermal aggressions, or for its use as a healing agent.According to a sixth aspect, the invention relates to an extract or a composition according to the invention, for its use in stimulating, restoring or regulating the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or for its use in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to epidermal and dermal tissue, advantageously chosen from atopic dermatitis, xerosis and psoriasis. According to a seventh aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of an extract or a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating damaged hair, preferably following exposure to the sun or sea water. DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES Figure 1: Example of histology of reconstructed skin with young vs. aged fibroblasts. Figure 2: Illustrative images of the histology in an aged reconstructed skin model (HPS staining: hematoxylin, phloxine, saffron). Figure 3: Scoring irregularities.Significance D0 vs D28 and D0 vs D56: S = significant (p<0.05),Significance active vs placebo: solid line = significant (p<0.05).Figure 4: Scoring under-eye wrinkles. Significance D0 vs D28 and D0 vs D56: S = significant (p<0.05), LS = borderline significant (p<0.1). DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTIONThe subject of the invention is a linseed oil Linum usitatissimum, concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, called concentrate, said "concentrate" being a seed oil of Linum usitatissimum concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, containing from 1.5% to 100% by weight, advantageously 2.5% to 100%, preferably 3.5% to 100%, more preferably 4% to 100% by weight of unsaponifiables, relative to the total weight of the extract. The unsaponifiable is the fraction of a fatty substance which, after prolonged action of an alkaline base, remains insoluble in water and can be extracted by an organic solvent.Five major groups of substances are present in most unsaponifiables of vegetable oils: saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons, aliphatic or terpenic alcohols, sterols, tocopherols, tocotrienols, carotenoid pigments and xanthophylls. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "linseed oil" means an oil obtained from linseed. Linum usitatissimum seed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction contains the fatty acids of the original oil and the fatty acid distribution of the concentrated Linum usitatissimum oil is identical to that of the Linum usitatissimum oil before concentration. Similarly, the unsaponifiable compounds and their respective distribution are identical in the starting oil and the concentrated oil.On the other hand, the oil is concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, in particular it comprises more than 1.5% or 2% by weight of unsaponifiables, relative to the total weight of the oil, advantageously more than 3.5%, more preferably more than 4%, by weight of unsaponifiables. The Linum usitatissimum seed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction advantageously comprises fatty acids having from 12 to 22, more advantageously from 16 to 20, carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.The oil can be refined by processes known to those skilled in the art such as physical refining (water degumming, deacidification by steam stripping deodorization) and chemical refining (water degumming or acid treatment to remove phospholipids, neutralization of free fatty acids using a basic solution, bleaching, refrigeration and deodorization), in particular by steam stripping deodorization. An example of characteristics of brown linseed oil (Linum usitatissimum) is given in the following table.Table 1 Fatty cut (% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil) C16 (palmitic acid) 4.0-10.0C16' (palmitoleic acid) ≤ 1.0C18 (stearic acid) ≤ 6.0C18' (oleic acid) 15-35%C18'' (linoleic acid) 10-25%C18"' (α-linolenic acid) 40-65%C20 (arachidic acid) ≤ 1.0C20' (eicasenoic acid) ≤ 1.0C22 (behenic acid) ≤ 1.0Tocopherol content (g / 100g) 0.010 – 0.050Sterol content (g / 100g) 0.3 – 0.7 Total unsaponifiable matter (g / 100 g) 0.4 – 1.1From this oil, the invention consists of a Linum usitatissimum linseed oil - concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction - also called the "concentrate". It advantageously comprises from 1.5 to 20% by weight of unsaponifiable matter, preferably from 2.5 to 19%, or from 3.5 to 17%, typically from 4 to 15%, for example from 4 to 11%, relative to the total weight of the oil. It advantageously has the following specifications.Table 2 Fatty cut (% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil) C16 (palmitic acid) 4.0-10.0C16' (palmitoleic acid) ≤ 1.0C18 (stearic acid) ≤ 6.0C18' (oleic acid) 15-35%C18'' (linoleic acid) 10-25%C18"' (α-linolenic acid) 40-65%C20 (arachidic acid) ≤ 1.0C20' (eicasenoic acid) ≤ 1.0C22 (behenic acid) ≤ 1.0Tocopherol content (g / 100g) 0.10 – 0.50Sterol content (g / 100g) 3 – 7Total content of Unsaponifiables (g / 100 g) 4 – 11According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the tocopherol content by weight is greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than 0.05%, or even greater than 0.1% relative to the total weight of the extract. The γ-tocopherol content may be greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of tocopherols, preferably greater than 80% by weight, preferably greater than 90 or 95% by weight.The tocopherol content may be between 0.01 and 2% by weight, preferably 0.05 and 1%, more preferably between 0.1 and 0.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. According to another preferred embodiment, the sterol content of the extract according to the invention is greater than 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than 2%, more preferably greater than 3%, relative to the total weight of the extract. The sterol content of the extract according to the invention may be between 0.5 and 15% by weight, preferably 1.5 and 10%, more preferably between 3 and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. Advantageously, the lipid extract comprises: - at least 10% by weight of campesterol relative to the total weight of sterols, - at least 15% by weight of beta-sitosterol relative to the total weight of sterols, and / or - at least 20% by weight of delta7-stigmasterol relative to the total weight of sterols.Advantageously, the unsaponifiable fraction is as described below. Table 3 Tocopherol content g / 100g concentrate 0.1- 0.50 Of which 90 to 100% γ-tocopherol Total sterol content g / 100g oil 3.0 – 7.0% relative campesterol 10-20%% relative stigmasterol 3-8%% relative beta-sitosterol 18-35%% relative delta 5-avenasterol 2-10%% relative delta7-stigmasterol 20-40%% relative: relative to the total weight of sterols The extract according to the invention is advantageously obtained by a process comprising the following successive steps: a) molecular distillation of a crude or refined Linumusitatissimum linseed oil; b) where appropriate, extraction of the unsaponifiable matter; c) recovery of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter obtained following step a) or of the unsaponifiable matter obtained following step b); and d) optionally a step of deodorization and / or decolorization of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter or of the unsaponifiable matter.When it is desired to recover the oil enriched (concentrated) in unsaponifiable matter, step b) is not carried out. When it is desired to recover the unsaponifiable fraction, step b) is carried out. This step b) advantageously comprises the following successive steps: i. saponification of the concentrated linseed oil into its unsaponifiable fraction obtained following step a), ii. then extraction of the unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent, such as ethyl acetate and hexane.The invention also relates to a process for preparing an extract according to the invention comprising the following successive steps: a) molecular distillation of a crude or refined Linumusitatissimum linseed oil; b) where appropriate, extraction of the unsaponifiable matter; c) recovery of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter obtained following step a) or of the unsaponifiable matter obtained following step b); d) optionally a step of deodorization and / or decolorization of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter or of the unsaponifiable matter. The molecular distillation step a) is preferably carried out using a device chosen from centrifugal type molecular distillers and scraped film type molecular devices. Centrifugal type molecular distillers are known to those skilled in the art. For example, application EP 493144 describes a molecular distiller of this type.Generally, the product to be distilled is spread in a thin layer on the heated surface (hot surface) of a conical rotor rotating at high speed. The distillation chamber is placed under vacuum. Under these conditions, there is evaporation and not boiling, from the hot surface, of the constituents of the oil such as the unsaponifiables, the advantage being that the oil and its constituents, in particular the unsaponifiables (these products being known to be fragile), are not degraded during evaporation. Molecular distillers of the wiped film type are also known to those skilled in the art. Generally, they comprise a distillation chamber equipped with a rotating scraper, allowing the continuous spreading on the evaporation surface (hot surface) of the products to be distilled. The product vapors are condensed by means of a refrigerated finger, placed in the center of the distillation chamber.The peripheral feed and vacuum systems are very similar to those of a centrifugal distiller (feed pumps, vane and oil diffusion vacuum pumps, etc.). The recovery of residues and distillates is done by gravitational flow into suitable containers. At the end of the fractionation step, typically the molecular distillation step, the distilled fraction rich in unsaponifiables advantageously represents 3 to 15% by weight of the starting oil, and the distilled fraction rich in triglycerides advantageously represents 85 to 97% by weight of the starting oil. It has also been verified that this process does not cause any chemical modification or alteration of the unsaponifiable compounds, and that the highly unsaturated fractions are preserved. Consequently, the fatty acid distribution of concentrated linseed oil is identical to that of linseed oil before concentration.Following this molecular distillation step, the product obtained may optionally be deodorized and / or decolorized by methods known to those skilled in the art, for example deodorized by steam stripping or molecular distillation, or decolorized by treatment on activated carbon. The linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction thus obtained has the characteristics described above. When it is desired to recover the oil enriched in unsaponifiable matter, step b) is not carried out. When it is desired to recover the unsaponifiable fraction, step b) is carried out. This step advantageously comprises the following successive steps: i. saponification of the linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction obtained following step a), ii. then extraction of the unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent, such as ethyl acetate and hexane. The unsaponifiable matter of linseed oil may be obtained by methods known to those skilled in the art.For example, it can be obtained by carrying out saponification on linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, then extracting this unsaponifiable using a suitable solvent. Typically, the unsaponifiable is then washed until the soaps are completely removed and then the solvent is evaporated. Finally, the unsaponifiable advantageously undergoes deodorization with water vapor and then stripping with nitrogen in order to eliminate traces of solvent. The unsaponifiable linseed oil thus obtained advantageously has the characteristics described above. In the remainder of the description, the term “extract according to the invention” will be used to designate the extract as such, as defined above, or the extract capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention as described above. The subject of the invention is also a composition comprising, as active ingredient, a lipid extract of linseed oil according to the invention and a suitable excipient.The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.01% to 20%, advantageously from 0.05 to 15%, more advantageously 0.1 to 10%, by weight of said lipid extract, relative to the total weight of the composition. The lipid extract according to the invention is advantageously used as an active agent in a composition such as a cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition, which may comprise one or more suitable excipients. The composition according to the invention may be formulated in the form of different preparations suitable for topical, oral or vaginal administration, preferably topical.According to a first variant, the various preparations are suitable for topical administration and include in particular creams, emulsions, milks, ointments, lotions, oils, aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or glycolic solutions, powders, patches, sprays, shampoos, varnishes or any other product for external application. The composition comprising a linseed oil concentrate having the indicated specifications is particularly intended for cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological use. In the context of cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological use, the composition will advantageously be formulated in the form of a preparation suitable for topical administration. In the context of nutraceutical use, the composition is advantageously formulated in the form of a preparation suitable for oral administration.The extract according to the invention can be included either in a food supplement or in a nutraceutical composition. The food supplement can be in the form of the extract according to the invention as such or in the form of gelatin or vegetable capsules or soft capsules. Said food supplement can then contain from 10 to 100% by weight of the extract according to the invention. The composition of the present invention can be incorporated directly and without any other modification into nutraceuticals, dietary products, particularly high-protein products, or beverages, using techniques such as mixing, infusion, injection, blending, absorption, kneading, and spraying.The composition according to the invention may also contain the usual adjuvants in the pharmaceutical, dermatological, cosmetic or nutraceutical fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, thickeners, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, chelating agents, odor absorbers, chemical or mineral filters, mineral pigments, surfactants, polymers, silicone oils and coloring matters. The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields considered, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles. A person skilled in the art is able to choose the appropriate adjuvants according to the intended application.As oils that can be used in the compositions for implementing the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils, oils of vegetable origin (apricot oil, sunflower oil, plum oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids, waxes (beeswax) may also be used as fats. As emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, fatty acid esters of polyol such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes. The methods of administration, dosages and optimal galenic forms of the compositions according to the invention may be determined according to the criteria generally taken into account in establishing a pharmaceutical, dermatological or cosmetic treatment adapted to a patient, such as, for example, the extent of the skin area to be treated, tolerance to the treatment, and skin type.The invention also relates to an extract according to the invention or a composition according to the invention for its use as, or in, a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical composition or as a food supplement. The extract according to the invention, and in particular a concentrate of linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, makes it possible to: - Protect the epidermis from oxidative damage; - Restore and stimulate the synthesis of skin lipids, in particular restore the lipid compounds of the barrier and more particularly ceramides in a context of dry skin; - Protect the skin against the effects of aging (protection of telomeres) and restore the compounds of the dermis (typically collagen I); - Protect the hair from damage caused by various stresses such as bleaching or heat.Skin lipids are fatty compounds found in the skin and play a crucial role in skin barrier function. They are primarily found in the hydrolipidic film and stratum corneum. These lipids include ceramides, free fatty acids, cholesterol, and triglycerides. Their composition and structure are essential for maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier, preventing transepidermal water loss, and protecting against external aggressions. Skin lipids also contribute to the suppleness and hydration of the skin. These lipids, particularly those found in sebum, also have a significant effect on hair. They provide hydration and protection. Indeed, sebum forms a protective film on the surface of the hair, helping to maintain its moisture and protect it against external aggressions such as sun exposure, seawater, or pollution.They also have cosmetic effects by giving suppleness and shine to the hair. Finally, skin lipids, particularly ceramides, help maintain the scales of the interlocking cuticle, thereby maintaining the hydration of the hair and giving it a smooth appearance. Therefore, the extract according to the invention does not only act by applying fatty elements to the skin or appendages, particularly the hair, it also stimulates the synthesis of essential components of the different layers of the skin, their junction as well as components beneficial to the hair.The composition or extract according to the present invention can be used in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, advantageously inflammatory reactions, disorders linked to intrinsic or extrinsic stress such as psychological stress, stress linked to a state of anxiety, stress linked to radical attacks linked or not to chemical or atmospheric pollution, and / or linked to exposure to UV or IR, disorders of the barrier or homeostasis, photosensitized skin, mechanical and / or thermal aggressions, or for its use as a healing agent.In particular, the composition or extract according to the invention is used to stimulate, restore or regulate the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to epidermal and dermal tissue and to protect hair fibers from various stresses. The extract or composition according to the invention can be used: - as an anti-aging agent, - to prevent an alteration of and / or maintain the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, - as an antioxidant and / or anti-inflammatory agent. In particular, the extract or composition according to the invention can be used as a protector and repairer of the skin barrier and / or as a protector of hair fibers. The composition or extract according to the invention can also be used to prevent or delay the phenomena of skin dryness, signs of aging and damage to hair fibers.The extract or composition according to the invention may be used to prevent or delay premature skin aging, in particular photo-induced, advantageously to prevent, reduce and / or treat wrinkles, fine lines or an alteration of the microrelief. Preferably, the extract or composition according to the invention is used in the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies or conditions chosen from the group consisting of superficial scars, fragile lips and cheilitis, and fragile, delipidated and sensitive skin. It is also used to stimulate, restore or regulate the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or for its use in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to epidermal and dermal tissue, preferably related to epidermal tissue. Indeed, the extract according to the invention has a particularly pronounced activity on the epidermis.These disorders are advantageously chosen from atopic dermatitis, xerosis and psoriasis. The extract or composition according to the invention can be used to increase collagen synthesis. They can also be used to increase the synthesis of cutaneous lipids. They are also useful for preserving the integrity and / or thickness of the dermis and / or epidermis, in particular the stratum corneum. Advantageously, the invention also relates to an extract or composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating dry skin, xerosis, sensitive skin, irritations, fragile lips, cheilitis, atopic dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis, typically dry skin. These disorders can be skin disorders linked to intrinsic or extrinsic stress such as psychological stress.The invention also relates to the use of an extract according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention for the manufacture of a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition for preventing and / or treating the disorders or pathologies mentioned above. The invention further relates to a method for preventing and / or treating disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or superficial body growths, comprising the administration, in particular the topical administration, of an effective amount of an extract according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, to a subject in need thereof. Preferably, the disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or superficial body growths are as defined above. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of dry, damaged and / or mature skin, comprising the administration, by oral or topical route, of an extract or of a composition according to the invention.Another aspect of the invention relates to an extract or a composition according to the invention, for its use in strengthening the mechanical properties of the skin and mucous membranes, in particular for combating withered, soft, distended, sagging and / or thinned skin, and / or strengthening and / or restoring the elasticity or firmness of the skin. The invention also relates to a cosmetic care method for the skin and / or the appendages and / or the mucous membranes with a view to improving their condition and / or their appearance, advantageously with a view to improving the firmness, elasticity or tone of the skin, comprising the topical or oral administration, preferably topical, of an extract or a composition according to the invention. The invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for dry skin, preferably with a feeling of tightness, comprising the topical or oral administration, preferably topical, of an extract or a composition according to the invention.The invention also relates to a cosmetic care method for healthy hair appendages, in particular hair, comprising the application to the healthy hair appendages of an extract or a composition according to the invention. It also relates to a cosmetic care method for hair appendages, in particular hair, comprising the application to the hair appendages of an extract or a composition according to the invention. The extract or the composition according to the invention are particularly effective in providing a "sheathing" effect to the hair, that is to say forming a protective film of the hair sheath. Thus, they make it possible to protect colored or uncolored hair from exposure to the sun or exposure to sea water. The cosmetic care method according to the invention also makes it possible to repair damaged hair appendages, preferably following exposure to the sun or to sea water.The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an extract or a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating damaged hair, preferably following exposure to the sun or sea water. The cosmetic uses and cosmetic care methods according to the present invention are typically carried out on healthy skin or healthy parts of the body and are not therapeutic. EXAMPLESExample 1: Concentrate according to the inventionAn example of a concentrate according to the invention is a refined oil of Linum usitatissimum concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction. The extract is prepared by molecular distillation (vacuum condition: 10-2 to 10-3 mbar; temperature of the distillation body between 250 and. 280 °C).This extract has the following mass distribution:Table 5 Fatty cut (% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil) C16 (palmitic acid) 7.0%C16' (palmitoleic acid) 0.2%C18 (stearic acid) 4.4%C18' (oleic acid) 21.0%C18'' (linoleic acid) 15.0%C18''' (α-linolenic acid) 51.5%C20 (arachidic acid) 0.1%C20' (eicasenoic acid) 0.1%C22 (behenic acid) 0.1%Tocopherol content (g / 100g) 0.35Sterol content (g / 100g) 3.6Total unsaponifiable content (g / 100g) 4.9 Tocopherols have the following mass distribution: Table 6 %α-tocopherol 2.6% β-tocopherol 0% δ-tocopherol 1.1% γ-tocopherol 96.4 The sterols have the following mass distribution: Table 7 Total Sterols Content 3.6 g / 100g of oil % relative campesterol 14.6 % % relative stigmasterol 6.8 % % relative beta-sitosterol 27.7 % % relative delta 5- 5,6 % avenasterol % relative delta7- 36,8 %stigmasterol Total unsaponifiable 4.9 g / 100 g of oilExample 2: In vitro biological activity tests of the extract according to the inventionThe tested extract is the concentrate of Example 1. It will be called "linseed oil concentrate" in the studies. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed as the weight of concentrate relative to the total weight of the tested composition.A – Induction of ceramidesMaterials and methodsThe study was carried out on a Perfex vivo human skin explant model, developed by the company BIO-EC. This model has the particularity of cultivating the explants in the open air and not in an incubator, making it possible to mimic the real exchanges of the skin with the air.The explants were treated topically with a formulation (cream) containing 1% of linseed oil concentrate of Example 1 or its placebo on D0, D2, D3 and D5. Ceramide immunostaining was performed on day 6. The percentage of labeled surface in the stratum corneum was determined by image analysis.The results were statistically analyzed by one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA), followed by Dunnett's test. b. Results The immunostaining results are presented in the table below. Table 8 Change % surface labeling Change versus ceramides in control untreated versus placebo stratum corneum (%) treated (%) Untreated control 25.2 ± 6.6 Placebo 18.1 ± 6.8 -28% ns 1% flaxseed concentrate 40.4 ± 10.6 +60% p<0.01 +123 % p<0.001 1% flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased ceramide labeling by 60%. The placebo tended to inhibit this immunolabeling.B – Antioxidant activityMaterials and methodsNormal human epidermal keratinocytes were incubated for 1 hour with the 2,7-DCDHF-DA probe. Then they were treated or not with linseed oil concentrate or linseed oil at 0.033% and 0.1% or the antioxidant reference molecule Vitamin E at 100µM. DMSO was used as the solubilization solvent for the active ingredient.Cells were treated in parallel with a 100µM hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) solution for 20 minutes. The production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) was assessed by measuring the fluorescence emitted by the probe in contact with ROS. A DMSO control, the solubilization solvent for linseed oil concentrate and linseed oil, was performed in parallel. The results were statistically analyzed by a one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA), followed by a Tukey test. b. Results Linseed oil concentrate significantly inhibited ROS release at 0.033% and 0.1% (-38%*** and -58%*** respectively). Linseed oil, at the same concentrations, showed no effect (see tables below).Table 9 Quantification of Variation versus Variation versus ROS control non-control DMSO Fluorescence intensity of treated (%) (%) (DFU) Untreated control 1250 ± 107H2O2 100µM 7856 ± 53 +528% $$$Reference 3158 ± 89 -60% ***(Vitamin E 100µM) DMSO control 6467 ± 535 -18% nsConcentrate lin 0.033% 3984 ± 81 -49% *** -38% ***Concentrate lin 0.1% 2712 ± 110 -65% *** -58% ***$$$ p<0.001 vs Untreated control ; *** p<0.001 ; **p<0.01 vs H2O2 or DMSO controlTable 10 Quantification of Variation versus Variation versus ROS control non-control DMSO Fluorescence intensity (DFU) (%). Untreated control 1156 ± 30H2O2 100µM 5724 ± 298 +395% $$$Reference (Vitamin E 100µM)2988 ± 174 -48% ***DMSO control 4634 ± 189 -19% **LINSEED OIL 0.033% 5169 ± 218 -10% ns +11.5% nsLINSEED OIL 0.1% 4286 ± 294 -25% *** -7.5% ns$$$ p<0.001 vs Untreated control; *** p<0.001; **p<0.01 vs H2O2 or DMSOC control – Telomere protectionMaterials and methodsNormal human dermal fibroblasts (NHF) were pre-treated for 3 days with 0.001% linseed oil concentrate or the positive reference Astragaloside IV at 30µM. Cell senescence was induced by 10µM H2O2 stress on days 3 and 4. Cells were treated with the active ingredient in parallel with H2O2 stress. Telomere length was analyzed on day 5 using the fluorescent in situ hybridization (FISH) technique. Results were statistically analyzed by Student's t-test. b.Results Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased telomere length decreased by H2O2 stress. The active ingredient protected telomeres from H2O2 stress inducing premature senescence of fibroblasts. By protecting telomeres, flaxseed oil concentrate limits the process of cellular senescence and promotes cellular longevity, thus delaying skin aging. Table 11 Telomere length Variation versus untreated control Total intensity / area or H2O2 nuclei of the2 (%) Untreated control 77565 ± 9211 H2O2 10µM 47179 ± 1912 -39% $vs untreated control Reference (Astragaloside IV 30µM) 90593 ± 7112 +92% **. Flax concentrate 0.001%103869 ± 19143 +120% * Materials and methods: Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHFs) were treated for 72 hours with 0.001% and 0.005% linseed oil concentrate. DMSO was used as a solvent for desolubilization of the active ingredient. The amount of "total" collagen I (intercellular and matrix compartment) was analyzed by immunofluorescent labeling. b. Results: Linseed oil concentrate significantly increased collagen I production by +27% (p < 0.05 vs. DMSO control – one-way ANOVA followed by Dunnett's test).E – Gene expression screening in an aged skin explant modelMaterials and methods Skin explants from a 54-year-old donor were treated for 48 hours (with treatment renewal at 24 hours) with the following products:- With the placebo topically (5 mg / cm²) and in parallel systemically with the desolubilization solvent (EtOH 0.075% / DMSO 0.025%), - With the linseed oil concentrate formulated at 1% topically (5 mg / cm²) and in parallel systemically with the linseed oil concentrate at 0.01%. An analysis of the gene expression level was performed by RT-qPCR. The results were statistically analyzed by Student's t-test. b. Results Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased the expression of a number of genes involved in epidermal structure and the dermo-epidermal junction.It also significantly increased the gene expression level of genes involved in telomere protection and longevity as well as several extracellular matrix genes (see table below). This screening showed a pro-epidermal effect and strengthening of the dermo-epidermal junction.Table 12 Function Abbreviation Full name % induction (vs placebo) COL17A1 Collagen type XVII alpha 1 +70%**LAMC2 Laminin gamma 2 +113%***JunctionITGAV Integrin alpha V +178%**dermo-epidermalITGB6 Integrin beta 6 +151%***NID1 Nidogen 1 +143%*COL7A1 Collagen type VII alpha 1 chain +28%*Serine palmitoyltransferase long SPTLC1 +38%** chain subunit 1 Synthesis UDP-glucose ceramide UGCG +55%* lipids glucosyltransferase ATP-binding cassette, sub-family A ABCA12 +64%* member 12 CD44 CD44 molecule +47%**Catenin (cadherin-associated protein) alpha 1 cellular interactions CTNNA1 +46%* Desmoplakin +57%**EPPK1 Epiplakin 1 +105%***SDC1 Syndecan 1 +37%**Proliferation MKI67 Proliferation marker Ki67 +43%*ProtectionPOT1 Protection of telomeres 1 +39%*telomeres CTS telomere maintenance CTC1 +44%* complex component 1. F – Pro-epidermal activity and strengthening of the dermo-epidermal junctionEfficacy in an aged reconstructed skin model This innovative model allows to mimic an aging of the epidermis. It is a chimeric reconstructed skin model made from fibroblasts from an aged donor and keratinocytes from a young donor. The keratinocytes cultured on an aged dermis will reconstruct an epidermis presenting alterations similar to chronological aging, such as a thinner epidermis, a disorganized dermo-epidermal junction and basal lamina (see Figure 1). A. Material and method The reconstruction of the skin was carried out over 42 days in several stages. A first stage of formation of an equivalent dermis made with fibroblasts (57-year-old donor) and a matrix consisting of collagen, glycosaminoglycans and chitosan.Fibroblasts were treated every 2 days for a total of 5 treatments (from D10 to D20) with 0.01% linseed oil concentrate or solubilization solvent (DMSO / Ethanol). Keratinocytes (28-year-old donor) were then seeded on this aged equivalent dermis. The skins were placed in an air-liquid interface on D28 so that the keratinocytes differentiated and formed an epidermis. The epidermis were treated topically from D33 every two days for a total of 4 treatments (D33 to D39) with linseed oil concentrate formulated at 1% in the placebo or the placebo. A positive reference retinol at 0.1 µM was performed in parallel. After 42 days of culture, the reconstructed skins were collected and histological analysis was performed as well as immunostaining of markers of interest. The results were statistically analyzed by Student's t test. b.Results Histological analysis Histological analysis showed that the linseed oil concentrate increased the thickness of the epidermis and improved its quality (see Figure 2). The linseed oil concentrate according to the invention: - increased the thickness of the epidermis: the number of living layers is greater, - improved the basal layer: the number of cells is greater and the cells are better aligned and organized, - improved terminal differentiation. Cytokeratin 10 analysis The linseed oil concentrate significantly increased the labeling of cytokeratin 10, reflecting an improvement in the differentiation and structure of the epidermis. Table 13 Cytokeratin 10 immunostaining (%)Variation versusVariation versus untreated control Intensity of staining / Placebo (%) (%) area of ​​the epidermis Untreated control 48.20 ± 1.75Reference (Retinol 0.1µM)72.08 ± 0.81 +50% ***Placebo 59.81 ± 1.25 +24% ***Flax concentrate 1% 70.85 ± 1.77 +47% *** +18.5% ***. Collagen XVII Analysis Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased collagen XVII staining, reflecting an improvement and strengthening of the dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) (see table below). Table 14 Collagen XVII immunostaining (%)Variation versusVariation versus untreated control (%) Staining intensity / Placebo (%) DEJ length Untreated control 25.31 ± 0.68 Reference (0.1µM Retinol) 30.10 ± 0.71 +19% *** Placebo 30.45 ± 0.52 +20% *** Flaxseed concentrate 1% 35.17 ± 0.97 +39% *** +15.5% *** Alpha 6 integrin analysis Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased alpha 6 integrin labeling, reflecting an improvement and strengthening of the dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) (see table below). Table 15 Alpha 6 integrin immunostaining (%)Variation versusVariation versus untreated control Labeling intensity / Placebo (%) (%) DEJ length Untreated control 21.35 ± 0.62 Reference (0.1µM Retinol) 19.98 ± 0.84 -6% ns Placebo 20.06 ± 0.86 -6% ns Flaxseed concentrate 1% 29.5 ± 0.91 +38% *** +47% *** Laminin 332 Analysis Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased laminin 332 labeling, reflecting an improvement and strengthening of the dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) (see table below). Table 16 Laminin 332 immunolabeling (%)Variation versusVariation versus untreated control Labeling intensity / Placebo (%) (%) DEJ length Untreated control 3.72 ± 0.21 Reference (0.1µM Retinol) 2.54 ± 0.06 -32% *** Placebo 7.65 ± 0.45 +105% *** Flaxseed concentrate 1% 10.53 ± 0.43 +183% *** +38% *** Fibrillin 1 Analysis Flaxseed oil concentrate significantly increased fibrillin 1 labeling (see table below). Fibrillin 1 allows the anchoring of the various constituents of the extracellular matrix. This result therefore reflects an improvement and strengthening of the dermal-epidermal junction. Table 17 Fibrillin 1 immunolabeling (%)Variation versusVariation versus untreated control Intensity of labeling / Placebo (%) dermis area Untreated control 35.45 ± 1.68 Reference (0.1µM Retinol) 40.75 ± 0.66 +15% *Placebo 38.46 ± 1.01 +8.5% ns Flaxseed concentrate 1% 45.64 ± 1.06 +29% *** +19% *** In this aged epidermis model, the linseed oil concentrate according to the invention successfully countered the effect of aging. Indeed, it showed efficacy on the dermo-epidermal junction. It also promoted the proliferation and organization of cells in the basal layer, thus promoting a thicker and better structured epidermis. It increased key markers of epidermal stem cells such as collagen XVII and alpha-6 integrin.G – Skin explant model vs. UVMaterials and methodsSkin explants were pre-treated for 48 hours topically with the linseed oil concentrate formulated at 1% and in parallel in the culture medium with the linseed oil concentrate at 0.01% solubilized in an ethanol / DMSO mixture. A placebo condition was performed (topical treatment with the placebo and treatment in the culture medium with the ethanol / DMSO mixture).A positive control corresponding to the topical application of a 1% Trolox solution was also performed. After 48 hours of treatment, the explants were stressed by UV-A irradiation (6J / cm²). Labeling of carbonylated proteins was performed 2 hours after UV-A irradiation. Histological analysis as well as immunolabeling of markers of interest were performed 24 hours after UV-A stress. b. Results Thickness of the stratum corneumThe thickness of the stratum corneum was not impacted by UV-A stress in explants treated with linseed oil concentrate. The active ingredient protected the morphology of the epidermis, altered by UV-A (see table below).Table 18 V. ariation versus Variation Thickness of stratum corneum (µm) treated or UVA (%) versus placebo Untreated control 19.08 ± 0.99 UVA stress (6J / cm²) 10.05 ± 0.46 -47% $$$Reference (Trolox 1%) 14.41 ± 1.00 +43% **Placebo 14.10 ± 1.13 +40% **Flax concentrate 1% 22.97 ± 1.02 +128% *** +63% ***$$$p<0.001 vs Untreated control; **p<0.01; *** p<0.001 vs UVA or Placebo – One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's test Analysis of protein carbonyls Flax oil concentrate decreased the amount of protein carbonyls induced by UV-A. The active ingredient protected the epidermis from UV-A-induced oxidative damage (see tables below). Whole skin analysis: Table 19 Quantification of Variation versus Variation of carbonyl proteins in untreated control versus Placebo (intensity / surface) or UVA (%) (%) Untreated control 494.12 ± 3.90 UVA stress (6J / cm²) 803.33 ± 30.25 +63% $$$Reference (Trolox 1%) 567.50 ± 19.60 -29% ***Placebo 600.14 ± 97.38 -25% ***Flax concentrate 1% 482.49 ± 59.53 -40% *** -20% ns $$p<0.01 ; $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated control ; *** p<0.001 vs UVA; *p<0.05 vs Placebo – One-way ANOVA followed by Dunnett’s testAnalysis on epidermis: Table 20 Quantification of Variation versus Variation in carbonylated proteins in untreated control versus Placebo (intensity / surface) or UVA (%) (%) Untreated control 629.43 ± 33.91 UVA stress (6J / cm²) 905.24 ± 19.42 +44% $$Reference (Trolox 1%) 898.95 ± 83.98 0% ns Placebo 762.59 ± 87.48 -16% ns Flax concentrate 1% 570.63 ± 114.30 -37% *** -25% *$$p<0.01 ; $$$p<0.001 vs Untreated control ; *** p<0.001 vs UVA ; *p<0.05 vs Placebo – One-way ANOVA followed by Dunnett's test Filaggrin analysis Linseed oil concentrate preserved the amount of filaggrin, which was altered by UV-A stress. The active ingredient protected the epidermis from UV-A-induced oxidative damage (see table below).Table 21 ImmunostainingVariation versusVariation filaggrin control untreated versus Placebo (intensity / area) or UVA (%) (%) Untreated control 863.63 ± 22.09 UVA stress (6J / cm²) 606.03 ± 28.64 -30% $$$Reference (Trolox 1%) 589.30 ± 56.31 -3% nsPlacebo 636.74 ± 75.26 +5% nsFlax concentrate 1% 874.52 ± 58.18 +44% *** +37% **$$$p<0.001 vs Untreated control; *** p<0.001 vs UVA; **p<0.01 vs Placebo – One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey test Analysis of laminin 332 The linseed oil concentrate preserved the quantity of laminin 332, altered by UV-A stress (see table below).Table 22 Immunostaining Variation versus Variation laminin 332 untreated control versus (intensity / area) or UVA (%) Placebo (%) Untreated control 736.61 ± 31.70 UVA stress (6J / cm²) 341.69 ± 22.20 -54% $$$Reference (Trolox 1%) 646.55 ± 35.08 +89% ***Placebo 361.75 ± 50.79 +6% ns Flaxseed concentrate 1% 520.06 ± 23.55 +52% *** +44% **$$$p<0.001 vs Untreated control; *** p<0.001 vs UVA; **p<0.01 vs Placebo – One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey test Analysis of cytokeratin 14 The linseed oil concentrate helped preserve the quantity of cytokeratin 14, altered by UVA stress (see table below).Table 23 ImmunostainingVariation versusVariation cytokeratin 14 control untreated versus Placebo (intensity / area) or UVA (%) (%) Untreated control 782.33 ± 51.96 UVA stress (6J / cm²) 416.42 ± 38.40 -47% $$$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 608.40 ± 88.25 +46% *Placebo 614.24 ± 19.78 +48% **Flax concentrate 1% 792.48 ± 50.81 +90% *** +29% *$$$p<0.001 vs Untreated control; *** p<0.001; **p<0.01; *p<0.05 vs UVA or Placebo – One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey’s test Fibrillin 1 Analysis Flaxseed oil concentrate preserved the amount of fibrillin 1 altered by UV-A stress (see table below). Table 24 Immunostaining Variation versus Variation fibrillin 1 control untreated versus Placebo (intensity / area) treated or UVA (%) (%) Untreated control 252.09 ± 25.84 UVA stress (6J / cm²) 135.10 ± 7.29 -46% $$$ Reference (Trolox 1%) 267.80 ± 17.41 +98% *** Placebo 156.17 ± 11.09 +16% ns Flaxseed concentrate 1% 186.78 ± 9.92 +38% * +20% *$$$p<0.001 vs Untreated Control; *** p<0.001; *p<0.05 vs UVA – One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's test *p<0.05 vs Placebo (Student's T-test) Hyaluronic acid analysis Flaxseed oil concentrate increased hyaluronic acid labeling (see table below). Table 25 ImmunostainingVariation versusVariation hyaluronic acid control untreated versus Placebo (intensity / area) or UVA (%) (%) Untreated control 925.85 ± 23.26UVA stress (6J / cm²) 485.83 ± 23.65 -48% $$$Reference (Trolox 1%)820.98 ± 66.30 +69% ***Placebo 622.15 ± 51.85 +28% *Flax concentrate 1% 874.52 ± 50.40 +80% *** +41% ***$$$p<0.001 vs Untreated control; *** p<0.001; *p<0.05 vs UVA or Placebo – One-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's test In this model mimicking aging that can be similar to chronological aging, linseed oil concentrate demonstrated protective activity against aging induced by UV-A stress.Indeed, it presented a protective effect on the thickness of the stratum corneum as well as a protective effect on a number of markers (filaggrin, cytokeratin 14, laminin 332, hyaluronic acid and fibrillin 1) altered by UV-AH stress – ConclusionThe linseed oil concentrate according to the invention presents numerous biological activities:- Antioxidant activity:^ Reduction of reactive oxygen species and carbonyl proteins.- Action on the epidermis:^ Improvement of the stratum corneum (barrier effect): induction of ceramides, protection of the thickness of the stratum corneum, protection of filaggrin. ^Improvement of living layers (epidermal differentiation): induction of cytokeratin 10, cytokeratin 14, reduction of carbonylated proteins, induction of markers of cell cohesion and the lipid synthesis pathway, increase in proliferation and organization of keratinocytes of the basal lamina.- Action on the dermo-epidermal junction:^ Induction of the markers Collagen XVII, integrin alpha-6, laminin V.- Dermal action:^ Induction of the markers Hyaluronic acid and fibrillin-1.- Protection of telomeresThrough these different activities, it is demonstrated that the linseed oil concentrate according to the invention prevents skin aging, particularly at the epidermal level, by strengthening the dermo-epidermal junction, by strengthening the densification of the epidermis and its longevity, by strengthening the skin barrier, through its lipid-replenishing and hydration-maintaining action. The active ingredient promotes the renewal and regeneration of the epidermis.Example 3: Objective evaluation of the protective / sheathing efficacy of the concentrate according to the invention compared to a control condition on damaged hair strands.The objective of this study was to objectively evaluate the protective / sheathing efficacy of an active ingredient compared to a control condition on damaged hair strands by measuring the permeability of the hair sheath after a single standardized application. Formula tested The formulas of the cream containing the active ingredient and the placebo cream are presented in the table below. Table 26 % Material Name MaterialActive PlaceboDeionized water 97.5456 98.5456Sclerotium gum 0.1500 0.1500Octanediol 0.3000 0.3000Hydrolite-6 1.0000 1.0000Linseed oil concentrate 1.0000 according to the invention Citric acid 0.0044 0.0044Total 100.0000 100.0000b. Methodology and protocol Principle of fluorescence permeability measurement In this study, Rhodamine B dye was used. It forms a fluorescent complex in the hair fiber which is detected when exposed to a fluorescence microscope coupled with compatible filters of the emitted wavelength.When a product with a protective / coating effect is applied to the hair, there is a bond between the active ingredients and the damaged sites of the hair and, thus, the number of sites available for binding with the dye marker is reduced. Consequently, the fluorescence intensity is lower. Strands Used Fifteen braids of Afro hair, type 3C, were prepared, weighing 5.0 g each and measuring 25 cm in length. All strands underwent a standard pre-cleaning process with a 10% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) solution for 1 minute and then rinsed under running water. The strands were dried in a standardized environment at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2 °C, for 24 hours before testing. 5 groups of 3 strands were formed:^ 3 strands were taken to form the “virgin” group.^ 6 strands (3 strands code T01 and 3 strands code T02) were taken and underwent a bleaching process.^6 strands (3 strands code T03 and 3 strands code T04) were collected and underwent a process simulating one year of hair damage. The "bleaching" process of strands T01 and T02 and the process simulating "one year of accumulated hair damage" of strands T03 and T04 are described below. After the hair damage procedure, the hair was subjected to treatment with the active and placebo products, as shown in the table below. Table 27 Strand code Number Damage Treatment“Virgin” strands N=3 None NoneT01 strands N=3Active (9058.05.05) Bleaching T02 strands N=3 Placebo (9058.04.02)T03 strands N=3Active (9058.05.05) 1 year of damage T04 strands N=3 Placebo (9058.04.02)The method of application of the active and placebo used is as follows: Wet hair for 20 seconds and remove excess water. Apply 0.5 mL of product and rub into hair for 30 minutes. Do not rinse.After applying the products, the braids were dried for 24 hours in a controlled environment at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2 °C. Strand Damage Bleaching Processa. In a non-metallic bowl, add the bleaching powder (Biocolor® Descolorante Rápido – Niasi®) and 20 volume hydrogen peroxide (Biocolor® Água Oxigenada Cremosa – Niasi™), in a ratio of 1:3.b. After 2 minutes of mixing, apply 10 g of the mixture to each strand.c. Rub each strand for 5 minutes, then leave for 30 minutes at 36°C in the oven.d. Rinse each strand for 5 minutes and remove excess water.e. Apply 2.0 g of shampoo and rub for 10 seconds. Rinse hair for 30 seconds and remove excess water, then dry hair for 10 minutes using a hair dryer. A process of simulating one year of accumulated damage a.Comb the strands manually 5 times to detangle them, then place them in the automated comber. b. Set the machine temperature to 27°C and the rotation speed to 25 rpm. c. The strands are combed 3000 times at 27°C d. The strands are swept 20 times with the thermal straightener. Each sweep is carried out vertically, downwards, for 10 seconds each. The Taiff Expert Premium thermal straightener, 175W is used at approximately 180°C The above sequence is considered as one cycle. The same procedure is repeated 4 more times, totaling 5 cycles (15000 successive combings and 100 passes of the straightener). f. The braids are then bleached following the procedure described above. c. Results The fluorescence results after single damage and cumulative damage simulation are shown in the table below.The results show that after a simple damage, the quantified fluorescence is significantly lower for the active ingredient compared to the placebo, reflecting a protective effect of the concentrate according to the invention. The same observation can be made for the simulation of one year of damage. Table 28 p value Parameter: fluorescenceActive Placebo Δ% (m ± σ) (m ± σ)(unpaired (Pacebo / Active). Simple damage: Active vs Placebo48.52 ± 13.24 69.11 ± 11.5 42.4% < 0.05 -S Cumulative damage: Active vs Placebo64.7 ± 18.88 84.16 ± 17.37 30.1% < 0.05 -S Example 4: Anti-aging clinical study The objective of this study is to objectively evaluate the effectiveness of the anti-aging activity of the concentrate according to the invention compared to a placebo on the basis of several evaluation criteria: the size of wrinkles, transepidermal water loss and certain biomarkers. Formula tested The formulas of the cream containing the concentrate according to the invention and the placebo cream are presented in the table below. Table 29 %Active Ingredient PlaceboAqua 91.6956 92.6956Caprylic / capric triglyceride 5.0 5.01,2-hexanediol 1.0 1.0Linseed oil concentrate 1.0Sclerotium gum 1.0 1.0Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3Citric acid 0.0044 0.0044Total 100.00 100.00b. Methodology and protocolBlind, parallel-group study – Before / After. Active versus placebo.56 days of application with measurements at D0 – D28 – D56. Panel :- 2 groups of 20 subjects – Female.- Age: between 45 and 65 years.- Phototype: I to III – Caucasian. Application twice a day, morning and evening as a facial treatment. Under normal conditions of use, as a replacement for usual facial care. Concentration on the measurement areas: wrinkles, temples, cheeks…Inclusion criteria:- Subject with crow's feet wrinkles (score between 3 and 5 on the Bazin scale). -Subject with signs of dryness on the face.- Subject not looking younger than their age.Wrinkle measurement:- Measurements are taken directly in vivo, using the AEVA-HE² / Evaface system, a high-resolution 3D scanning sensor for measuring the shape and relief of the skin. -Measurement of the microrelief at the temple level outside the crow's feet area.- Measured parameter: Rz = Average height of the asperity = Average relief.- Rz is the average of 5 unique roughness depths, measured in the ln section.Single roughness depth is the difference between the highest profile peak and the deepest profile valley within a single measurement section (lr). Clinical assessment of wrinkles: - Non-visual scale from 0 (Uneven skin with many roughness and imperfections) to 10 (Smooth skin): skin regularity. - Clinical scoring is performed by an expert on a structured scale. Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements: - The skin barrier acts as a regulator of the skin's water balance. When the skin barrier is damaged, the water exchange regulatory system becomes destabilized. This means that water migrates more easily to the external environment, increasing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). However, if the condition of the skin barrier improves, water loss decreases as the water exchange regulatory mechanism regains its balance.- Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements are performed with an Aquaflux® AF200 (BIOX) or a Tewameter TM300TM (Courage & Khazaka electronics). -The AquaFlux® chamber consists of a small cylinder, closed at its upper end by a condenser whose temperature (-7.6°C) is maintained below the freezing point of water by means of a Peltier cooler. This system allows humidity in the chamber to be controlled independently of ambient conditions (temperature and humidity variations). -The probe inlet, with a diameter of 7 mm, is placed in contact with the measured area. The water vapor from the skin is permanently transformed into ice by the condenser, thus maintaining low humidity. On the other hand, in the measurement area, the humidity level is higher. This difference thus causes a migration of water vapor from the measurement area to the condenser by passive diffusion.The water vapor flux (expressed in g / m² / h) is calculated from the measurements of this humidity gradient and Fick's first diffusion law. Biomarker evaluation: - Sampling by D-Squames - Biomarkers - Barrier function: Analysis of long ceramides (EOS) by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC / MS). c. Results Wrinkle measurement The measurements of the Rz parameter are presented in the table below. A difference in favor of the active ingredient is observed at D28 for the Rz parameter. Thus, the skin of subjects using the active ingredient is smoother. Table 30% of subjects D. 0 (m±σ) D28 (m±σ) ∆%(D28-D0) with improvement Active 38.7±11.1 37.4±9.46 -1.29±3.7 -3.3% 58.3%Placebo 35.86±7.13 36.15±7.36 0.29±2.63 0.8% 45.8%∆Active D28-D0 ∆Placebo ∆Active / ∆%(∆Active / (m±σ) D28-D0 (m±σ) ∆Placebo ∆Placebo) Active vs Placebo -1.29±3.7 0.29±2.63 1.58* -122.1% N / A* : p <0.1Clinical evaluation of wrinkles Figures 3 and 4 respectively present the comparison of the scoring of irregularities and wrinkles under ocular. For the active ingredient at D28, an improvement in under-eye wrinkles and a significant improvement in irregularities is observed. At D56, a significant improvement in under-eye wrinkles and irregularities is observed. A significant difference in favor of the active ingredient is observed at D28 and D56 on the scoring of under-eye wrinkles and irregularities. Transepidermal water loss measurements A worsening is observed at D28 for the placebo. The active ingredient compensates for the deleterious effect of the placebo. A significant difference in favor of the active ingredient is observed at D28.The active ingredient therefore acts in favor of the protection and repair of the barrier. Table 31. Active 19.15±4.71 18.82±5.21 -0.33±4.6 -1.7% 45.8%Placebo 17.28±4.02 20.22±5.47 2.95±5.21 17.1% 25%∆Active D28-D0 ∆Placebo ∆Active / ∆%(∆Active / (m±σ) D28-D0 (m±σ) ∆Placebo ∆Placebo) Active vs Placebo -0.33±4.6 2.95±5.21* 3.28* -996.3% N / A* : p <0.05Biomarker Assessment ∑EOS (AU / mg protein) results are shown in Table below. The results demonstrate a significant improvement in favor of the active. Table 32% of subjects D 0 (m±σ) D56 (m±σ) ∆(D56-D0) ∆%(D56-D0) with (m±σ) improvement Active 120.67±74.43 135.79±63.94 15.12±18.6* 12.5% ​​80%Placebo 115.13±64.19 120.08±53.27 4.95±23.42 4.3% 70%∆Active D56-D0 ∆Placebo D56- ∆Active / ∆% (∆Active / (m±σ) D0 (m±σ) ∆Placebo ∆Placebo) Active vs Placebo15.12±18.6 4.95±23.42 -10.18 -67.3% N / A*: p <0.05

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Lipid extract of Linum usitatissimum linseed oil, characterized in that said lipid extract is a linseed oil concentrated in its unsaponifiable fraction, containing from 1.5% to 100%, advantageously 2.5% to 100%, preferably 3.5% to 100%, more preferably 4% to 100% by weight of unsaponifiables, relative to the total weight of the extract.

2. Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipid extract contains from 1.5 to 20% by weight of unsaponifiables, preferably from 2.5 to 19%, preferably from 3.5 to 17%, more preferably from 4 to 15%, typically from 4 to 11%, relative to the total weight of the extract.3.Extract according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the lipid extract has a tocopherol content by weight greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than 0.05%, preferably greater than 0.1% by weight in tocopherols, relative to the total weight of the extract, advantageously the lipid extract comprising at least 90% by weight of γ-tocopherol relative to the total weight of tocopherols.

4. Extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the lipid extract has a sterol content greater than 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than 2%, more preferably greater than 3%, relative to the total weight of the extract, advantageously the lipid extract comprising:- at least 10% by weight of campesterol relative to the total weight of sterols,- at least 15% by weight of beta-sitosterol relative to the total weight of sterols, and / or- at least 20% by weight of delta7-stigmasterol relative to the total weight of sterols.5.Process for preparing an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising the following successive steps: a) molecular distillation of a crude or refined Linumusitatissimum flax seed oil; b) where appropriate, extraction of the unsaponifiable matter; c) recovery of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter obtained following step a) or of the unsaponifiable matter obtained following step b); d) optionally a step of deodorization and / or decolorization of the oil concentrated in unsaponifiable matter or of the unsaponifiable matter.

6. Process according to claim 5, characterized in that step b) comprises the following successive steps: i. saponification of the concentrated linseed oil into its unsaponifiable fraction obtained following step a); ii. then extraction of the unsaponifiable using a suitable solvent, such as ethyl acetate and hexane.

7. Composition comprising, as active ingredient, a lipid extract of linseed oil Linum usitatissimum according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and a suitable excipient.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.05 to 15%, more advantageously 0.1 to 10%, by weight of said lipid extract, relative to the total weight of the composition. 9.Composition according to claim 7 or 8 or extract obtainable by the process according to claim 5 or 6 or extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4, for its use as, or in, a cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical composition or as a food supplement.10.Extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or extract obtainable by the process according to claim 5 or 6 or composition according to claim 7 or 8, for its use in preventing and / or treating disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, advantageously inflammatory reactions, disorders linked to intrinsic or extrinsic stress such as psychological stress, stress linked to a state of anxiety, stress linked to radical attacks linked or not to chemical or atmospheric pollution, and / or linked to exposure to UV or IR, disorders of the barrier or homeostasis, photosensitized skin, mechanical and / or thermal aggressions, or for its use as a healing agent.11.Extract or composition according to claim 10, for its use:- as an anti-aging agent,- to prevent an alteration of and / or maintain the homeostasis of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, - as an antioxidant and / or anti-inflammatory agent.

12. Extract or composition according to claim 10 or 11, for its use to prevent or delay premature skin aging, in particular photo-induced.

13. Extract or composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12 for preventing, reducing and / or treating wrinkles, fine lines or an alteration of the microrelief.

14. Extract or composition according to claim 10 or 11, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies or conditions selected from the group consisting of superficial scars, fragile lips and cheilitis, and fragile, delipidated and sensitive skin.

15. Extract or composition according to any one of claims 10 to 14, for use in the prevention and / or treatment of dry skin.

16. Extract or composition according to any one of claims 10 to 15, for increasing collagen synthesis.

17. Extract or composition according to any one of claims 10 to 16, for increasing the synthesis of skin lipids.18.Extract or composition according to any one of claims 10 to 17, for preserving the integrity and / or thickness of the dermis and / or the epidermis, in particular the stratum corneum.

19. Extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or extract obtainable by the method according to claim 5 or 6 or composition according to claim 7 or 8, for its use in stimulating, restoring or regulating the metabolism of skin cells and mucous membranes and / or for its use in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to epidermal and dermal tissue.

20. Extract or composition according to claim 19, for its use in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders related to epidermal and dermal tissue selected from atopic dermatitis, xerosis and psoriasis. 21.Cosmetic use of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or of an extract obtainable by the process according to claim 5 or 6 or of a composition according to claim 7 or 8 for preventing and / or treating damaged hair, preferably following exposure to the sun or sea water.

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