Cosmetic emulsion comprising distarch phosphate and gums

A cosmetic emulsion with distarch phosphate and specific gums addresses water separation issues by optimizing their concentrations and ratios, ensuring emulsion stability and preventing water separation.

WO2025201848A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2025-10-02BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2025/056303
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-03-26
Filing Date
2025-03-07
Publication Date
2025-10-02

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic emulsions, particularly those containing distarch phosphate, suffer from water separation issues, which are exacerbated by the presence of acetylhydroxyproline, and current emulsifiers are insufficient in preventing this phenomenon.

Method used

A cosmetic emulsion formulation comprising distarch phosphate and specific gums, such as xanthan, dehydroxanthan, gellan, or sclerotium gum, is developed to suppress water separation, with optimal concentrations and ratios of these components.

Benefits of technology

The formulation effectively reduces water separation, maintaining emulsion stability and integrity, even in the presence of acetylhydroxyproline, by leveraging the stabilizing properties of the gums and distarch phosphate.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic emulsion containing distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) and one or more gums, and to the use of one or more gums in cosmetic emulsions, containing distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate), for reducing the separation of water from the preparation.
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Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Cosmetic emulsion with distarch phosphate and gums

[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic emulsion containing distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) and one or more gums, as well as the use of one or more gums in cosmetic emulsions containing distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) for reducing water separation from the preparation.

[0004] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is deeply rooted in human nature. Although the ideal of beauty has evolved over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin plays a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0005] In order for the skin to fully fulfill its biological functions, it requires regular cleansing and care. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments, or lotions, generally serve to moisturize and replenish the skin's oils. They often contain active ingredients designed to regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent or reduce premature aging (e.g., the formation of fine lines and wrinkles).

[0006] Skin care products typically consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to be heterogeneous systems consisting of two immiscible or only slightly miscible liquids, commonly referred to as phases, in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other in the form of tiny droplets. Externally and to the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

[0007] To keep emulsions stable over a longer period of time and prevent phase separation, so-called emulsifiers are added to the emulsions. Emulsifiers are usually molecules with a polar, hydrophilic structural element and a nonpolar, lipophilic structural element.

[0008] In addition to the phenomenon of phase separation into oil and water phases, which is usually regulated with the help of emulsifiers, experts in cosmetic emulsions are also familiar with the phenomenon of oil phase components leaching out, as well as the phenomenon of water separation. These two phenomena differ from phase separation in that only a portion of the oil phase or water escapes from the emulsion, while the entire remainder of the emulsion remains stable. Since phase separation and water or oil separation are two different phenomena, they can also occur independently of each other (e.g., even in parallel).

[0009] The mechanism of the phenomenon of water or oil separation is not yet fully understood. What is clear is that the choice or concentration of the emulsifier alone does not influence its occurrence.

[0010] Furthermore, those skilled in the art are also aware that this phenomenon of water separation frequently occurs in emulsions thickened with distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate). However, distarch phosphate is a consistency enhancer that is enjoying increasing popularity as a natural substitute for polyacrylates.

[0011] The phenomenon of water separation poses a particular challenge for emulsions containing the active ingredient acetylhydroxyproline (INCI: Acetyl Hydroxyproline). This active ingredient regularly promotes water separation in state-of-the-art emulsions.

[0012] The object of the present invention was therefore to develop an emulsion in which water separation can be effectively suppressed. This emulsion should preferably be thickened with distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate).

[0013] In particular, it was the object of the present invention to develop a cosmetic emulsion containing acetylhydroxyproline (INCI: Acetyl Hydroxyproline) in which water separation can be effectively suppressed.

[0014] Surprisingly, the problem is solved by a cosmetic emulsion containing a) distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) and b) one or more gums.

[0015] Surprisingly, the problem is also solved by the use of one or more gums in cosmetic emulsions containing distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) to reduce water separation from the preparation (emulsion).

[0016] In the context of this disclosure, the phrases “advantageous according to the invention”, “preferred according to the invention”, etc. refer both to the preparation according to the invention and to the use according to the invention.

[0017] According to the invention, it is advantageous if one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum), dehydroxanthan gum (INCI: Dehydroxanthan Gum), gellan gum (INCI: Gellan Gum), and sclerotium gum (INCI: Sclerotium Gum) are used as gums. According to the invention, it is preferred if dehydroxanthan gum (INCI: Dehydroxanthan Gum), gellan gum (INCI: Gellan Gum), and sclerotium gum (INCI: Sclerotium Gum) are used as gums.

[0018] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the emulsion contains distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) in a concentration of 0.3 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The concentration range of 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

[0019] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the emulsion contains one or more gums in a total concentration of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The concentration range of 0.1 to 0.9% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

[0020] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the weight ratio of distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) to the total amount of gum is 0.8 to 2.7. A weight ratio of 0.9 to 2.6 is preferred according to the invention. A weight ratio of 2.5:1 is particularly preferred.

[0021] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains acetylhydroxyproline (INCI: Acetyl Hydroxyproline). It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation contains N-acetyl-trans-4-hydroxy-L-proline as acetylhydroxyproline.

[0022] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation contains acetylhydroxyproline (INCI: Acetyl Hydroxyproline) in a concentration of 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The concentration range of 0.02 to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

[0023] It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion).

[0024] Preferred embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) as an emulsifier.

[0025] In such a case, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) in a concentration of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also characterized in that the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is 3 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0026] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the water content in the preparation is at least 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0027] In emulsions with a low oil phase and high water content, the phenomenon of water separation occurs particularly frequently and intensively.

[0028] Last but not least, it is preferred according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl

[0029] Salicylates) and 3,3,5Trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-

[0030] Methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters (so-called PEG derivatives), parabens, methylisothiazolinone,

[0031] Chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM ​​hydantoin.

[0032] In addition, the cosmetic emulsion according to the invention may contain the ingredients commonly used in cosmetics.

[0033] Comparison test and implementation examples

[0034] The following formulations were prepared, filled into jars, and stored at 25 °C, and the water separation was visually observed at various times. All weights are percentages based on the total weight of the preparation.

Claims

1. Cosmetic emulsion containing a) distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) and b) one or more gums.

2. Use of one or more gums in cosmetic emulsions containing distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) to reduce water separation from the preparation.

3. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum), dehydroxanthan gum (INCI: Dehydroxanthan Gum), gellan gum (INCI: Gellan Gum), sclerotium gum (INCI: Sclerotium Gum) are used as gums.

4. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains acetylhydroxyproline (INCI: Acetyl Hydroxyproline).

5. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) in a concentration of 0.3 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

6. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains one or more gums in a total concentration of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

7. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of distarch phosphate (INCI: Distarch Phosphate) to the total amount of gums is 0.8 to 2.

7.

8. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains N-acetyl-trans-4-hydroxy-L-proline as acetylhydroxyproline 9. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains acetylhydroxyproline (INCI: Acetyl Hydroxyproline) in a concentration of 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

10. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion).

11. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) as an emulsifier.

12. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) in a concentration of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

13. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion is 3 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

14. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content in the preparation is at least 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

15. Cosmetic preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate), polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters (so-called PEG derivatives), parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin.

Citation Information

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