Cosmetic composition comprising cationic dextran polymers, specific anionic surfactants and alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine surfactants, and cosmetic treatment process

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition not comprising a sulfate anionic surfactant, comprising: (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers, (ii) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, and (iii) one or more amphoteric surfactants of alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably the hair, comprising a step of applying such a composition to said keratin materials.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising cationic dextran polymers, specific anionic surfactants and alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine surfactants, and cosmetic treatment process

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cationic dextran polymer in combination with specific anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, notably washing, of keratin materials, notably the hair, using said composition.

[0002] For cleansing and / or washing the hair, it is known to use liquid detergent haircare compositions (or shampoos) which are essentially based on conventional surfactants; notably anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric, but generally anionic, surfactants. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the various types of soiling initially present on the hair.

[0003] Among the anionic surfactants which may be used, mention may notably be made of sulfate surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts. These surfactants are known to generate abundant foam, making it possible to easily remove soiling by dispersing it in water, ultimately leading to a feeling of cleanliness.

[0004] In order to preserve natural resources and notably water, it is advantageous to propose compositions that make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed, notably during use of the product, in particular for rinsing out said product.

[0005] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing toward tackling global challenges.

[0006] It is therefore essential to propose compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that make it possible to respond to these environmental challenges. In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to provide cosmetic compositions which are easy to rinse, notably in order to save on water during rinsing, while retaining firstly good properties of use, such as a good intrinsic washing power and good foam quality (abundance notably) and secondly excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness, disentangling and smoothness to the touch.

[0008] It is possible to solve these problems and achieve these aims by virtue of the present invention, one subject of which is notably a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0009] (i) one or more cationic dextran polymers,

[0010] (ii) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, and

[0011] (iii) one or more amphoteric surfactants of alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type,

[0012] said composition not comprising a sulfate anionic surfactant.

[0013] The composition according to the invention is particularly easy and quick to rinse, notably due to the use of specific anionic and amphoteric surfactants, as a replacement for the usual sulfate anionic surfactants.

[0014] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to substantially reduce the environmental impact thereof compared to a conventional washing composition based on sulfate surfactants, notably in terms of saving on water.

[0015] In addition, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to impart good cosmetic properties to the treated hair: the hair is particularly supple, easy to disentangle, is smooth to the touch with no buildup effect (natural feel).

[0016] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0017] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0018] - the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;

[0019] - the term “keratin materials” denotes keratin fibers, and in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp;

[0020] - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibers” denotes human keratin fibers and more particularly the hair.Cationic dextran

[0021] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more dextran base polymers functionalized with one or more cationic groups; these polymers may be referred to in the rest of the present description as “cationic dextrans” or “cationic dextran polymers”.

[0022] The cationic group(s) borne by the dextran polymer may be cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to give cationic groups; advantageously, this or these groups are of quaternary ammonium type.

[0023] The cationic dextrans according to the invention do not comprise any anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to give anionic groups. Moreover, they are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-O units).

[0024] Dextran is a branched polymer of dextrose (or glucose); the glucose units are generally connected by α-1,6 linkages; the polymer also has branchings generally consisting of α-1-3 linkages.

[0025] In particular, it can be represented as follows:

[0026] The cationic dextran polymer also bears one or more cationic functions, preferably of quaternary ammonium type, generally connected to the dextran polymer by one of its pendent oxygen atoms.

[0027] The quaternary ammonium cationic functions are advantageously of the type:

[0028] -O-X-N+R1R2R3, A-, in which:

[0029] O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the dextran polymer,

[0030] X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with an OH group,

[0031] R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, are linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and

[0032] A is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.

[0033] Preferentially, R1 = R2 = R3 = methyl.

[0034] Preferentially, A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0035] Preferentially, X is a divalent hydroxyl radical, in particular a divalent hydroxypropyl (i.e. hydroxypropylene) radical, which is preferably linear.

[0036] The preferred cationic dextran polymers are chosen from dextran polymers bearing quaternary ammonium cationic functions of the type:

[0037] -O-X-N+(CH3)3, A-in which:

[0038] O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the dextran polymer,

[0039] X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with an OH group, and

[0040] A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0041] A particularly preferred cationic dextran polymer can be represented by the following formula:

[0042] with R, independently of one another, representing H or a

[0043] -CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(CH3)3Cl-radical, at least one of the radicals R being other than H.

[0044] Mention may be made very particularly of the polymer bearing the INCI name: DEXTRAN HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

[0045] Preferably, the cationic dextran polymer(s) have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) which may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 daltons, better still ranging from 50 000 to 2 000 000 daltons, even better still from 100 000 to 1 000 000 daltons, or even ranging from 125 000 to 800 000 daltons.

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic dextran polymer(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Olefin sulfonate anionic surfactants or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids

[0048] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids.

[0049] It may therefore comprise one or more anionic surfactants of olefin sulfonate type, one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, or a mixture of these different types of anionic surfactants.Olefin sulfonates

[0050] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates, preferably from α-olefin sulfonates, even better still from linear α-olefin sulfonates, preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0051] Olefin sulfonates are known compounds and are described notably in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry or else in patent US 8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain α-olefins.

[0052] The linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear alkene sulfonates, notably of formula (A), optionally as a mixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates, notably of formula (B).

[0053] The linear alkene sulfonates therefore correspond to formula (A):

[0054] R-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)n-SO3M

[0055] in which:

[0056] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms;

[0057] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4 and even better still n = 1;

[0058] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen notably from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and notably Na+or K+.

[0059] Preferably, R represents a linear alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0060] Preferably, M is derived from an alkali metal, notably Na+or K+.

[0061] Preferably, the linear alkene sulfonates according to the invention have the formula:

[0062] in which:

[0063] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0064] - M is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen notably from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals or alkali metals; and notably Na+or K+.

[0065] The linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates may be of formula (B):

[0066] R’-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n’-SO3M’

[0067] in which:

[0068] - R’ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms;

[0069] - n’ is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better still n’ = 1;

[0070] - M’ being a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen notably from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and notably Na+or K+.

[0071] Preferably, R’ represents a linear alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0072] Preferably, M’ is derived from an alkali metal, notably Na+or K+.

[0073] Preferably, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates have the formula:

[0074] in which:

[0075] - R’ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0076] - M’ being a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen notably from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals or alkali metals; and notably Na+or K+.

[0077] Preferably, R and R’ are identical.

[0078] Preferably, M and M’ are identical.

[0079] Preferably, the olefin sulfonates according to the invention are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular of alkali metals, notably of sodium.

[0080] Commercial products that may notably be mentioned include those sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40A or Bio-Terge AS-40HA by the company Stepan, or Calsoft AOS-40 by the company Pilot Chemical, or alternatively Nansa LSS38 / AV by the company Huntsman.Surfactants derived from amino acids

[0081] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids.

[0082] In particular, these surfactants may correspond to formula (I):

[0083] R-C(O)-NH-L-(COO-)xAx+, in which:

[0084] - R is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0085] - L is a linear or branched divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; x being equal to 1 when L is divalent and equal to 2 when L is trivalent; and

[0086] - A+or A++is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or, when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline-earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, or a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols.

[0087] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the compounds of formula (I) in which L is a divalent -CH2- or -CH(CH3)- group or a trivalent -CH(CH2CH2-)- group.

[0088] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline-earth metal such as magnesium, or an ammonium.

[0089] Preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0090] - acyl alaninates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0091] - acyl glycinates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0092] - acyl glutamates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0093] preferably in the form of salts, notably chosen from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0094] Mention may be made in particular, alone or as a mixture, of:

[0095] - cocoyl alaninate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate,

[0096] - stearoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate,

[0097] - cocoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate and TEA (triethanolamine) cocoyl glutamate;

[0098] - lauroyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium or disodium lauroyl glutamate,

[0099] - palmitoyl glutamate salts, in particular sodium or magnesium palmitoyl glutamate,

[0100] - cocoyl glycinate salts, in particular sodium or potassium cocoyl glycinate.

[0101] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from:

[0102] - linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0103] - acyl alaninates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0104] - acyl glycinates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0105] - acyl glutamates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0106] preferably in the form of salts, notably chosen from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0107] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise anionic surfactant(s) chosen from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, in a total amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, notably from 4% to 18% by weight, preferably from 6% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] Advantageously, the total amount of the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from:

[0109] - linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0110] - acyl alaninates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0111] - acyl glycinates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or

[0112] - acyl glutamates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0113] preferably in the form of salts, notably chosen from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts,

[0114] in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 6% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Optional additional anionic surfactants

[0115] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates and the anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, as described above.

[0116] This or these additional anionic surfactants are not sulfate surfactants; they may be, in a known manner, sulfonate or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants.

[0117] Specifically, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise an anionic surfactant of sulfate type. By this, it is understood that the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants is less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, in particular less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, even better still this content is equal to 0.

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, a “sulfate anionic surfactant” is understood to mean surfactants comprising at least one anionic group or group which can be ionized to give an anionic group, chosen from sulfate functions (-OSO3H or -OSO3-); they may optionally comprise sulfonate and / or carboxylate groups. Mention may be made in particular of alkyl sulfates, alkylamido sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, and monoglyceride sulfates; and also salts thereof.

[0119] As additional anionic surfactants which may be present in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of anionic surfactants corresponding to formula (I) below:

[0120] R-X-L-(Y-)yAy+

[0121] in which:

[0122] - R is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms, optionally comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, notably from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units;

[0123] - X is a divalent radical chosen from -O-C(O)- and -C(O)-O-,

[0124] - L is a linear or branched divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; y = 1 when L is divalent and y = 2 when L is trivalent;

[0125] - Y-, which may be identical or different when y = 2, is chosen from the sulfonate group SO3-and the carboxylate group COO-, and

[0126] - A+or A++is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or, when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline-earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, or a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols.

[0127] Preferably, in formula (I), L is a divalent -CH2-, -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)- group or a trivalent -CH-CH2- group.

[0128] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline-earth metal such as magnesium, or an ammonium.

[0129] Preferably, Y-is a sulfonate group when y = 1, and a sulfonate group and a carboxylate group when y = 2.

[0130] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the compounds of formula (I), wherein:

[0131] - X is -O-C(O)-, L is a methylene group and Y- is a sulfonate SO3- group;

[0132] - X is -O-C(O)-, L is a trivalent group comprising from 2 to 3 carbon atoms, notably 2 carbon atoms; y = 2 and one of the Y-is a sulfonate group, the other Y-is a carboxylate group; or

[0133] - X is -C(O)-O-, L is a divalent (alkylene) group comprising 2 to 3 carbon atoms, notably -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)-; and Y-is a sulfonate group.

[0134] Preferably, A represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or an alkaline-earth metal such as magnesium, or an ammonium.

[0135] Preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0136] - alkyl sulfoacetates and also salts thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20 or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0137] - acyl isethionates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0138] - acyl methylisethionates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0139] - alkyl sulfosuccinates and also salts thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0140] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and also salts thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, notably from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units;

[0141] preferably in the form of salts, notably chosen from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0142] Even more preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0143] - alkyl sulfoacetates and also salts thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20 or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0144] - acyl methylisethionates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;

[0145] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and also salts thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20 or even from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, notably from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units;

[0146] preferably in the form of salts, notably chosen from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0147] Mention may be made in particular of lauryl sulfoacetate or cocoyl sulfoacetate salts, notably sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and sodium cocoyl sulfoacetate; cocoyl methylisethionate or lauryl methylisethionate salts, notably sodium cocoyl methylisethionate and sodium lauryl methylisethionate; cocoyl isethionate or lauryl isethionate salts, notably sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauryl isethionate; laureth sulfosuccinate salts, notably disodium laureth sulfosuccinate; lauryl sulfosuccinate or coco sulfosuccinate salts, notably disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium coco sulfosuccinate.

[0148] Advantageously, the total content of additional anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention, when they are present, can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] When they are present, preferably the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Amphoteric surfactants

[0150] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines.

[0151] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any amphoteric surfactant other than those chosen from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines.

[0152] This or these surfactants may thus be chosen in particular, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines.

[0153] Preferably, they may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C18)alkylbetaines and (C10-C18)alkylamido(C3-C6)alkylbetaines; even better still, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C16)alkylbetaines and (C10-C16)alkylamido(C3-C5)alkylbetaines. Mention may in particular be made of coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from (C10-C16)alkylamido(C3-C5)alkylbetaines, more preferably cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0155] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from (C10-C16)alkylamido(C3-C5)alkylbetaines, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Other ingredients

[0157] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight and even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 7, preferentially from 4 to 6 and better still from 5 to 6.

[0160] Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of applying a composition as defined previously to said keratin materials.

[0161] A step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is preferably carried out after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0162] A step of drying the keratin materials can be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, notably using a heating means such as a hairdryer.

[0163] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts are expressed as grams of active material (AM), unless otherwise mentioned.Example 1

[0164] Cosmetic composition A according to the invention and comparative cosmetic composition B are prepared using the ingredients indicated in the table below.

[0165] CompositionA (invention)B (comparative)Sodium cocoyl alaninate1212Dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride0.30.3Cocamidopropyl betaine4-Sodium cocoamphoacetate-4Sodium chloride0.70.9Preserving agents, fragrancesqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100

[0166] Compositions which can be used as a shampoo to be rinsed out, for washing the hair, are obtained.A / Evaluation of the cosmetic performance

[0167] The cosmetic performance in terms of smoothness to the touch, suppleness and disentangling provided by compositions A and B is evaluated.

[0168] Each of compositions A and B was applied to locks of wet hair (5.4 g locks, SA20 sensitized) in an amount of 0.6 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks were rinsed without any leave-on time. Evaluation on wet locks was carried out.

[0169] A score of 0 was awarded to locks treated with comparative composition B, and a score ranging from -3 to +3 in increments of 0.5 was awarded to the locks treated with composition A. The comparative evaluation was carried out blind by 3 experts.

[0170] Each whole score corresponds to the following elements:

[0171] + / - 3: large difference

[0172] + / - 2: moderate difference

[0173] + / - 1: small difference

[0174] 0: equivalent (no difference).

[0175] The results are considered to be better when the score is positive, and worse when the score is negative.

[0176] The smoothness to the touch was evaluated as follows: touch evaluation of the uniformity of the hair from root to tip, by holding a lock of hair at the root and sliding it through the fingers as far as the tip; the more the feeling is uniform, the better the smoothness to the touch.

[0177] The suppleness was evaluated as follows: the evaluator takes handfuls of the hair and tries to fold it. The more easily the hair can be folded or bent, the more bendable it is, the better the suppleness.

[0178] The disentangling was evaluated as follows: the disentangling is evaluated using a comb that the evaluator slides from the root to the tip. The more easily the comb slides, the better the disentangling.

[0179] The following results are obtained (mean of 3 scores):

[0180] Smooth feelSupplenessDisentanglingA (invention)B (comparative)A (invention)B (comparative)A (invention)B (comparative)Expert 1+20+10+10Expert 2+20+10+10Expert 3+10+10+10Mean+1.70+10+10Standard deviation0.600000B / Evaluation of rinsability performance

[0181] In order to evaluate rinsability performance, three drops of artificial sebum were applied using a pipette to locks of hair (5.4 g, SA20 sensitized) and distributed over the whole length of the lock. The locks were then wet, then dried manually.

[0182] 0.25 g of the composition to be tested were then applied to the lock. The lock was then rinsed until the feeling when touched no longer changed, i.e. until there was no more sebum on the lock.

[0183] The time required for rinsing each lock was compared to that obtained with a reference shampoo (Garnier Fructis Aloe Hydrabomb). The shorter the rinsing time, the easier the rinsing is.

[0184] Each expert (3 experts) awarded a score corresponding to the rinsing times, ranging from -3 to +3, with an increment of 0.5, to the locks to be evaluated, using the same scoring scale as described previously. A score of 0 is awarded to the reference composition.

[0185] The score is positive if the rinsing time is shorter, the score is negative if the rinsing time is longer.

[0186] The following results are obtained (mean of 3 scores):

[0187] RinsabilityA (invention)B (comparative)ReferenceExpert 1+100Expert 2+1-10Expert 3+1.500Mean+1.2-0.30Standard deviation0.30.60

[0188] The foam generated by each of the compositions is similar in terms of amount and quality.

[0189] It is noted that composition A according to the invention is much easier to rinse than the comparative composition and the reference composition.

[0190] Hair washed with composition A according to the invention also has better cosmetic properties, notably a smoother feel, better suppleness and better disentangling, on wet hair, compared to hair washed with comparative composition B.

Claims

A cosmetic composition comprising:(i) one or more cationic dextran polymers,(ii) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, and(iii) one or more amphoteric surfactants of alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaine type,said composition not comprising a sulfate anionic surfactant.The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the cationic dextran polymer bears one or more cationic functions of quaternary ammonium type, advantageously of the -O-X-N+R1R2R3, A-type, in which:O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the dextran polymer,X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with an OH group,R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, are linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; andA is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;in particular of the -O-X-N+(CH3)3, A-type, in which:O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the dextran polymer,X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with an OH group, andA is a halide, in particular a chloride.The composition as claimed in either of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic dextran polymer is represented by the following formula:with R, independently of one another, representing H or a-CH2CH(OH)CH2N+(CH3)3Cl-radical, at least one of the radicals R being other than H.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic dextran polymer bears the INCI name: DEXTRAN HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic dextran polymer(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates, preferably from α-olefin sulfonates, even better still from linear α-olefin sulfonates, preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular of alkali metals, notably of sodium.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids corresponding to formula (I): R-C(O)-NH-L-(COO-)xAx+, in which:- R is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;- L is a linear or branched divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; x being equal to 1 when L is divalent and equal to 2 when L is trivalent; and- A+or A++is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or, when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline-earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, or a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants derived from amino acids chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- acyl alaninates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;- acyl glycinates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; and / or- acyl glutamates and also salts thereof, the acyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms;preferably in the form of salts, notably chosen from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising anionic surfactant(s) chosen from olefin sulfonates and / or anionic surfactants derived from amino acids, in a total amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, notably from 4% to 18% by weight, preferably from 6% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates and anionic surfactants derived from amino acids; preferably corresponding to formula (I) below:R-X-L-(Y-)yAy+in which:- R is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms, optionally comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, notably from 1 to 10, or even from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units;- X is a divalent radical chosen from -O-C(O)- and -C(O)-O-,- L is a linear or branched divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; y = 1 when L is divalent and y = 2 when L is trivalent;- Y-, which may be identical or different when y = 2, is chosen from the sulfonate group SO3-and the carboxylate group COO-, and- A+or A++is a cosmetically acceptable counterion, and can represent H or, when the anionic surfactant is in salt form, an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline-earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, or a derivative of amines and in particular of amino alcohols;better still chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the compounds of formula (I) in which:- X is -O-C(O)-, L is a methylene group and Y-is a sulfonate group SO3-;- X is -O-C(O)-, L is a trivalent group comprising from 2 to 3 carbon atoms, notably 2 carbon atoms; y = 2 and one of the Y-is a sulfonate group, the other Y-is a carboxylate group; or- X is -C(O)-O-, L is a divalent (alkylene) group comprising 2 to 3 carbon atoms, notably -CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)-; and Y-is a sulfonate group.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines; better still, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C18)alkylbetaines and (C10-C18)alkylamido(C3-C6)alkylbetaines; even better still, alone or as a mixture, from (C10-C16)alkylbetaines and (C10-C16)alkylamido(C3-C5)alkylbetaines; notably cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(amidoalkyl)betaines, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight, even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.A process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of applying a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13 to said keratin materials.The process as claimed in claim 14, comprising a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, after the step of applying the composition.

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