Cosmetic emulsion and process for the production thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for producing an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containing tapioca starch (INCI: Tapioca Starch), glycerol, water, ethanol and an oil phase, wherein a) in a first container (1), a partial amount of tapioca starch is added to water and, with stirring, is heated to at least 70°C, b) in a second container (2), one or more gums (INCI: Gums) are slurried, at room temperature, in glycerol with stirring, c) in a third container (3), the remainder of the tapioca starch is suspended, at room temperature, in ethanol, d) then the aqueous phase a) from (1) is added, with stirring, to an oil phase heated to at least 75°C, e) then the gums slurried in glycerol b) from (2) are added, and then homogenization is performed, f) then the emulsion is cooled to room temperature, g) the ethanol phase (3) is added at room temperature, and h) then the entire preparation is homogenized again.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Cosmetic emulsion and methods for its production

[0003] The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containing tapioca starch in two different states.

[0004] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is rooted in human nature. Even though the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin plays a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0005] For the skin to fully perform its biological functions, it requires regular cleansing and care. Cleansing the skin removes dirt, sweat, and dead skin cells, which provide an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products primarily moisturize and replenish the skin's natural oils. They often contain active ingredients that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce premature aging (such as the formation of fine lines and wrinkles) or protect against the negative effects of UV radiation. Skin care products are typically offered in the form of emulsions, in which an outer water phase contains stably dispersed oil droplets (oil-in-water emulsion), or in which stably dispersed water droplets are present in a continuous oil phase (water-in-oil emulsion).

[0006] Emulsions, especially oil-in-water emulsions (O / W emulsions), typically contain natural or synthetically produced polymeric consistency enhancers such as polyacrylates or hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) to regulate the viscosity and flow behavior of the preparations. Since polyacrylates are increasingly undesirable to consumers due to the discussion surrounding "microplastics" (whether rightly or wrongly is irrelevant for the purposes of this disclosure), polymers of natural origin have been increasingly used for this purpose in recent years, particularly gums (INCI: Gum) such as xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum), starch derivatives such as hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, or cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose.In emulsions whose viscosity is to be regulated solely with polymers of natural origin, a problem arises at high water contents: the stability of the emulsion is not guaranteed, and the viscosity increase is insufficient. The preparations remain relatively thin, and oil separation from the preparation is observed. These problems have not yet been satisfactorily solved by increasing the polymer concentration or adding other known natural polymers.

[0007] The object of the present invention was therefore to develop a polyacrylate-free O / W emulsion with a high water content and an associated manufacturing process in which the viscosity and stability can be increased.

[0008] The problem is surprisingly solved by a process for producing an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containing tapioca starch (INCI: Tapioca Starch), glycerin, water, ethanol, and an oil phase, wherein a) in a first container (1), a portion of tapioca starch is dissolved in water and heated to at least 70 °C while stirring, b) in a second container (2), one or more gums (INCI: Gums) are suspended in glycerin at room temperature while stirring, c) in a third container (3), the remainder of the tapioca starch is suspended in ethanol at room temperature, d) the aqueous phase a) from (1) is then added to an oil phase heated to at least 75 °C while stirring, e) the gums suspended in glycerin b) from (2) are then added, and the mixture is homogenized, f) the emulsion is then cooled to room temperature.g) the ethanol phase (3) is added at room temperature and h) the entire preparation is then homogenized again.

[0009] Furthermore, according to the invention, an emulsion is produced according to the inventive process.

[0010] While the use of tapioca in cosmetic preparations is generally known to those skilled in the art – for example, DE 102004 013 633.5 describes its use in cosmetics – the fact that tapioca can be used in one and the same composition both as a consistency enhancer and as a powder raw material, and that it exists both as a gel-forming network and as powder particles, is an approach that those skilled in the art have never previously considered.

[0011] Within the scope of the present disclosure, formulations such as "according to the invention", "advantageous according to the invention", etc., always refer to both the inventive process and the inventive emulsion produced according to the process.

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, room temperature is understood to be a temperature between 20 and 25 °C.

[0013] It is preferred, according to the present invention, if in step a) the temperature is at least 85 °C and particularly preferably at least 95 °C. Ideally, the tapioca starch is cooked and then stirred for 10 to 15 minutes at 90 °C.

[0014] It is preferred, in accordance with the present invention, if in step d) the temperature is at least 80 °C and particularly preferably at least 85 °C.

[0015] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the water in step a) is used in an amount of 70 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion. An amount of 72 to 77% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion, is preferred according to the invention.

[0016] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains tapioca starch in an amount of 0.75 to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion. An amount of 1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion, is preferred according to the invention.

[0017] It is also advantageous according to the invention if, in a) the amount of tapioca starch in the first container (1) is 0.5 to 1.5% by weight based on the total weight of the tapioca starch in the emulsion, and in c) the remainder of the tapioca starch is used in a third container (3). In this case, an amount of 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion, is preferred according to the invention in a).

[0018] According to the invention, it is advantageous if a) the first container (1) additionally contains gellan gum (INCI: Gellan Gum).

[0019] In such a case, it is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if a) in the first container (1) additionally contains gellan gum (INCI: Gellan Gum) in an amount of 0.05 to 0.15 wt%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0020] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that in b) the second container (2) contains xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) as gum (INCI: Gum).

[0021] In such a case, it is preferred according to the invention if, in b), the second container (2) contains xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) in an amount of 0.2 to 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion. It is further advantageous according to the invention if, in b), the second container (2) contains hydroxypropyl guar (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Guar).

[0022] In such a case, according to the invention, it is preferred if, as in b), in the second container

[0023] (2) Hydroxypropylguar (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Guar) is included in an amount of 0.2 to 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0024] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if hyaluronic acid is contained in a third container (3) in c).

[0025] In such a case, according to the invention, it is preferred if, as in c), a third container

[0026] (3) Hyaluronic acid is included in an amount of 0.05 to 0.15 wt%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

[0027] Advantageous embodiments according to the invention are further characterized in that hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 3.0x10 3 Up to 2.5x10 6 is used.

[0028] According to the invention, it is advantageous if one or more emulsifiers have been added to the oil phase.

[0029] In accordance with the present invention, it is preferred if sodium cetearyl sulfate (INCI: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate) is added to the oil phase as an emulsifier.

[0030] In such a case, it is advantageous according to the invention if the sodium cetearyl sulfate (INCI: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate) is present in an amount of 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion. An amount of 0.03 to 0.08% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion, is preferred according to the invention.

[0031] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that, in b), the second container (2) contains glycerin in an amount of 1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion. An amount of 3 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion, is preferred according to the invention.

[0032] A further advantageous feature of the present invention is that, in c) a third container (3) contains ethanol in an amount of 4 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion. An amount of 5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion, is preferred according to the invention.

[0033] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the oil phase contains one or more of the following lipids:

[0034] Octyldodecanol (preferably in a concentration of 2 to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation), dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI: Dicaprylyl Carbonate) (preferably in a concentration of 1 to 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation), caprylyl Z-capric triglycerides (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) (preferably in a concentration of 1 to 4 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation). Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the O / W emulsion contains further active ingredients, excipients, and perfumes, which are added in a further process step after step g) and before step h) of the preparation.

[0035] It should be noted, however, that according to the invention it is preferred if the O / W emulsion is free of polyacrylates, cross-linked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamate-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: octocrylene), parabens (in particular methyl, propyl, and butylparaben), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, DMDM ​​hydantoin, mineral oils, mineral waxes, and silicone oils. Finally, according to the invention, it is also advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention serves for the cosmetic and / or dermatological treatment of atopic dermatitis.

[0036] Example of implementation

[0037] Raw materials and phases:

[0038] Manufacturing instructions:

[0039] 1. The fat phase is weighed into a bowl and melted at a minimum of 75°C.

[0040] 2. Thickener phase 1 is weighed in, then the hydroxypropyl guar and xanthan gum are stirred into the glycerin.

[0041] 3. Thickener phase 2 is weighed in.

[0042] 4. The water phase is weighed out.

[0043] 5. The water phase is heated to 70°C, then the thickener phase 2 with the tapioca starch is slowly added.

[0044] 6. The water phase is heated to 90°C and kept at this temperature for 15 minutes while stirring.

[0045] 7. The water phase is cooled to 75°C.

[0046] 8. The water phase is added to the fat phase while stirring. 9. Thickener phase 1 is added.

[0047] 10. The approach is homogenized.

[0048] 11. The mixture is cooled to room temperature while stirring.

[0049] 12. The ethanol phase is weighed out, the tapioca starch is suspended in ethanol. 13. The ethanol phase is added to the cooled mixture.

[0050] 14. The approach is homogenized.

[0051] Evaluation:

[0052] The oil-in-water emulsion shows no oil or water separation, even after extended storage periods of up to 8 months under various storage conditions. The viscosity remains stable throughout the storage period, ranging between 1800 and 3500 mPas. There are no color or odor deviations.

[0053] Stress tests were carried out under the following storage conditions:

[0054] Storage at +6°C for a period of 8 months - Storage at room temperature for a period of 8 months

[0055] Storage at +40°C for a period of 8 months

[0056] Storage in a temperature-changing chamber at -10°C / +40°C for a period of 30 days, with the temperature being changed every 12 hours.

[0057] Store in a freezer at -10°C for 30 days

Claims

1. A process for producing an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containing tapioca starch (INCI: Tapioca Starch), glycerin, water, ethanol, and an oil phase, wherein a) in a first container (1), a portion of tapioca starch is dissolved in water and heated to at least 70 °C while stirring, b) in a second container (2), one or more gums (INCI: Gums) are suspended in glycerin at room temperature while stirring, c) in a third container (3), the remainder of the tapioca starch is suspended in ethanol at room temperature, d) the aqueous phase a) from (1) is then added to an oil phase heated to at least 75 °C while stirring, e) the gums b) from (2) suspended in glycerin are then added and homogenized, f) the emulsion is then cooled to room temperature, g) the ethanol phase (3) is dissolved at room temperature is added and h) the entire preparation is then homogenized again.

2. Method for producing an emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the water in step a) is used in an amount of 70 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

3. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains tapioca starch in an amount of 0.75 to 3.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

4. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in a) in the first container (1) the partial quantity of tapioca starch is 0.5 to 1.5 wt% based on the total weight of the tapioca starch in the emulsion and in c) in a third container (3) the remainder of the tapioca starch is used.

5. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in a) the first container (1) additionally contains gellan gum (INCI: Gellan Gum).

6. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a) in the first container (1) additionally contains gellan gum (INCI: Gellan Gum) in an amount of 0.05 to 0.15 wt%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

7. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in b) the second container (2) contains xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) as the gum.

8. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in b) the second container (2) contains xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) in an amount of 0.2 to 0.4 wt%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

9. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in b) the second container (2) contains hydroxypropyl guar (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Guar).

10. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in b) the second container (2) contains hydroxypropylguar (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Guar) in an amount of 0.2 to 0.4 wt%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

11. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in c) a third container (3) contains hyaluronic acid.

12. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in c) a third container (3) contains hyaluronic acid in an amount of 0.05 to 0.15 wt%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

13. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 3.0x10 3 Up to 2.5x10 6 is used.

14. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more emulsifiers have been added to the oil phase.

15. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that sodium cetearyl sulfate (INCI: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate) was added to the oil phase as an emulsifier.

16. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that sodium cetearyl sulfate (INCI: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate) is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 0.1 wt%, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

17. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in b) the second container (2) contains glycerin in an amount of 1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion.

18. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in c) ethanol is contained in a third container (3) in a Amount of 4 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the O / W emulsion, is included.

19. A method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil phase contains one or more of the following lipids: octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI: Dicaprylyl Carbonate), caprylyl / capric triglycerides (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides).

20. Method for producing an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the O / W emulsion contains further active ingredients, excipients and perfumes which are added in a further process step after step g) and before step h) of the preparation.

21. A process for producing an emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the O / W emulsion is free of polyacrylates, cross-linked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamate-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: octocrylene), parabens (in particular methyl, propyl and butyl parabens), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, DMDM ​​hydantoin, mineral oils, mineral waxes and silicone oils.

22. Emulsion produced by a method according to any of the preceding claims.

23. Emulsion produced according to a method according to one of the preceding claims for the cosmetic and / or dermatological treatment of atopic dermatitis.

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