Anhydrous liquid composition comprising squalane, dimer acid derivatives, pasty compounds and a mineral thickener, and method using same
A liquid cosmetic composition with squalane, dimer fatty acid derivatives, and plant butters addresses the need for hybrid lip products by offering a comfortable, glossy, and protective lip application using natural ingredients, enhancing both skincare and makeup performance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/067415
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-06-27
- Filing Date
- 2025-06-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup and skincare products for lips often compromise between skincare benefits and makeup performance, leading to discomfort and environmental concerns due to petroleum-derived and silicone ingredients, while hybrid products with natural, plant-based ingredients are sought after.
A liquid cosmetic composition comprising squalane, dimer fatty acid derivatives, plant butters, and a mineral thickener, with optional water content below 2%, providing a stable, glossy, and comfortable lip application.
The composition achieves a uniform, shiny, and comfortable lip deposit with good moisturization and protection, minimizing tackiness and oily feel, while using renewable and natural ingredients.
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Figure PCTXMLIB-APPB-C000001
Abstract
Description
ANHYDROUS LIQUID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SQUALANE, DIMER ACID DERIVATIVES, PASTY COMPOUNDS AND A MINERAL THICKENER, AND METHOD USING SAME
[0001] The present invention relates to liquid compositions for application to the lips, comprising squalane, a dimer fatty acid derivative compound and a mineral thickener, and to a cosmetic method in which such a composition is applied.
[0002] Until some time ago, makeup and skincare products belonged to two very different fields. On the one hand there were lip balms, very often in the form of solid compositions, one of the roles of which is to form a protective barrier on the lips, in order notably to prevent or limit water loss. Usually, the deposits are quite greasy, and colourless or slightly tinted. On the other hand, there were makeup compositions, with a multitude of presentation forms, ranging from liquid to solid compositions, either anhydrous or in the form of an emulsion. As for the effects observed after application of these compositions, here too a wide range could be obtained, ranging from non-covering deposits or, on the contrary, highly covering deposits, with shiny to matte results. Increasingly technical products then appeared, providing a long wear property, no colour transfer, ultra-matte properties, etc. In general, these results are obtained by using film-forming polymers such as silicone polymers, volatile oils at a high content, fillers, and combinations thereof. On the other hand, the use of such ingredients and the achievement of these performance characteristics were accompanied by drawbacks, such as a decrease in comfort, in particular due to the tackiness of the deposit, feelings of tightness or dryness of the lips, which further accentuates the difference between these two types of compositions.
[0003] For some time now, this boundary between the makeup and skincare fields has been tending to fade away at the instigation of consumers who want to have hybrid products, providing both skincare and colouring effects with good performance characteristics.
[0004] Also for some years now, consumers have been more attentive to the ingredients used in the compositions, and to the natural, in particular skin-friendly and environmentally-friendly, nature thereof. This is why it is increasingly frequently sought to do away with using raw materials such as those derived from the transformation of petroleum, or else silicones, conventionally used up to that point, without however detriment to the performance characteristics of the compositions.
[0005] Thus, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling these environmental challenges to be met.
[0006] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0007] The present invention is in line with these new trends and relates more particularly to liquid compositions, in particular for making up and / or caring for the lips, favouring the use of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin, in particular plant origin. Moreover, the compositions according to the invention advantageously make it possible to limit, or even to dispense with, liquid or solid ingredients derived from petroleum chemistry, or silicone ingredients.
[0008] These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, a subject of which is thus liquid cosmetic compositions comprising:* squalane;* at least one first compound chosen from polyesters obtained at least from at least one monounsaturated or polyunsaturated dimer fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;* at least one second compound, which is solid at room temperature, chosenfrom plant butters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C20monocarboxylic acids; and also mixtures thereof;* at least one polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the first compound(s);* at least one mineral thickener;* optionally water at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0009] The invention also relates to a makeup and / or skincare method in which the composition defined above is applied to human keratin materials, in particular to the lips.
[0010] The present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable, liquid (so not solid) composition, which is applied very easily to the lips, as a precise, uniform and glossy deposit. The resulting deposit also exhibits a particularly notable comfort, providing a “cushion” effect, with good moisturization and a feeling of lip protection.
[0011] The deposit has little or no tackiness, is not runny, is very shiny and very comfortable, with no oily feeling.
[0012] These advantages, and others, of the present invention will become more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which will follow.
[0013] It should be noted that, in the remainder of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a range are included in said range.
[0014] The expressions “at least one” and “several” are used without distinction.
[0015] In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Protocol for measuring the viscosity
[0016] The viscosity is measured according to the following protocol:The composition is stored at 25°C for 16 hours before measuring the viscosity.The viscosity measurement is performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM 1180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).
[0017] In particular, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention is between 2 and 14 Pa.s, preferably between 5 and 11 Pa.s.Protocol for measuring the gloss
[0018] The gloss of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:The sample is spread as a 50.8 µm film on a Byko Chart 2A® or Penopac 1A® contrast card from the company BYK using an automatic film spreader of the Byko-Drive XL® type from the company BYK equipped with a film spreading bar such as a 5353® variable gap clearance square frame from the company BYK, set for a gap clearance of 50.8 µm.
[0019] The contrast card is placed on the applicator platform and the 50.8 µm gap side of the bar is placed on the contrast card at the information area to be filled in. About 2 g of product are deposited directly in front of the bar. The automatic applicator is started and the bar is moved to ensure that an even film of the required thickness is deposited.
[0020] The film is left to dry at 25°C for 15 minutes.
[0021] The gloss of the film applied to the black areas of the contrast card is measured at an incident angle of 60° and expressed in Gloss Units.
[0022] The gloss unit is a gloss meter scale (example: Rhopoint IQ-S® from Konica Minolta), based on a reference standard of highly polished black glass with a defined refractive index and a specular reflectance of 100 gloss units at a given angle, with the minimum point set to 0 for a perfectly matte surface.
[0023] The measurement can be repeated over time to evaluate the gloss persistence.
[0024] The composition is considered glossy for the purposes of the invention when the gloss value is at least 60, and preferably at least 70.Protocol for measuring the tack:
[0025] Equipment used:- TA-XT plus Texture Analyser, Texas Instruments- Strip of white Supplale 150 mm × 25 mm (Soudotique, reference: DFSUP15025B)- Circle of white Supplale 38 mm in diameter (Soudotique, reference: DESUPDIAM38B)
[0026] Sample preparation:- Define, on a strip of Supplale, the length of the deposit (10 cm).- Weigh the strip of Supplale.- Remove the gloss applicator without wiping the excess on the edges of the container and apply the composition over the determined length, always in the same direction (i.e.: once at the end of the area to be made up, lift the applicator and reposition it at the beginning of the area) in as many passes as necessary, without turning the applicator over, so as to have a uniform distribution of the composition (= application 1).- Turn the strip of Supplale around (the beginning of the area to be made up becomes the opposite end, and vice versa), take a fresh amount of composition in the same way as in the previous step and apply it in the same way as in the previous step (= application 2).- Turn the strip of Supplale around to return it to the position of step 1 and repeat steps 1 and 2 (= 4 applications in total).- Weigh the strip of Supplale with the 4 applications of the deposit.- Leave to dry for 1 hour on a hotplate at 32°C.- Weigh the strip after drying.
[0027] Measurement:- Fasten the made-up strip to the plate of the texture analyser (double-sided tape).- Fasten a circle of white Supplale in the measuring spindle.- Take 2 measurements at the centre of the sample, at two different locations.
[0028] The parameters of the compression tests with the hold times are given below:
[0029] Approach speed (or pre-speed)1 mm / sSpeed (from the detection of contact)0.5 mm / sForce800 gContact time5 secondsWithdrawal speed (or post-speed)40 mm / s
[0030] The tack corresponds to the area under the curve, given in g / s.SQUALANE
[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises an oil which is a squalane, preferably plant squalane.
[0032] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” means a lipophilic compound that is liquid at room temperature.
[0033] Squalane is a branched hydrocarbon oil which is nonpolar, i.e. comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0034] This oil corresponds more particularly to the following formula:
[0035] (I)
[0036] It is preferred to use squalane obtained from plants, in general such as olives, or else more recently sugar cane.
[0037] Squalane is sold, for example, by Biosynthis under the name Squalive, by EFP Biotek under the name Olive Squalane and by Amyris under the name Neossance Squalane.
[0038] Advantageously, the content of squalane represents from 5% to 40% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 30% by weight, in particular from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.FIRST POLYESTER COMPOUND
[0039] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one first compound chosen from polyesters obtained at least from a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated dimer fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0040] Advantageously, the content of first compound(s) represents from 5% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 7% to 20% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0041] More particularly, said first polyester compounds are dimer dilinoleic acid esters of polyol(s) or an ester thereof. The expression “an ester thereof” is intended to denote one of the derivatives of these dimer dilinoleic acid esters of polyol(s) obtained either by reaction of alcohol function(s) of the polyol, which are not involved in ester-type bonds with carboxylic acid functions of the dilinoleic acid, with one or more carboxylic functions of acid molecules other than dilinoleic acid or by reaction of carboxylic acid function(s) of the dimer dilinoleic acid, which are not involved in ester-type bonds with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.Dimer dilinoleic acid
[0042] The dimer dilinoleic acid may be obtained by polymerization reaction, notably by intermolecular dimerization of a linoleic acid.
[0043] The oxidation stability of the compound may be improved by hydrogenating the carbon-carbon double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction.
[0044] The dimer dilinoleic acid can also be obtained by dimerization of the hydrogenated form of linoleic acid.
[0045] The hydrogenated form of the acid or of the diacid may be partial or total, and may correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more oxidation-stable.
[0046] As indicated above, the carboxylic functions of the dimer dilinoleic acid residue not involved in the ester bond with the polyol residue(s) may be involved in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol(s).
[0047] These alcohol molecules or residues may be monoalcohols or polyols.Monoalcohols
[0048] As examples of alcohol residues that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0049] As examples of monoalcohols that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, cetol, behenol, etc.Polyols
[0050] The term “polyol” is intended to denote any hydrocarbon compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0051] The hydrocarbon chains may be interrupted, where appropriate, by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and especially an oxygen atom.
[0052] A polyol or a polyol ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, in particular from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and more particularly from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.
[0053] Where appropriate, the hydroxyl functions, other than those already employed in an ester bond with the dimer dilinoleic acid, may also be employed, wholly or partly with other ester bonds via reactivity with acid molecules other than the dimer dilinoleic acid.
[0054] The polyol or an ester thereof that is suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen especially from linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.
[0055] Thus, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from a diol, a triol, a tetraol, or a pentaol, or an ester thereof.
[0056] The polyol may be a diol, or an ester thereof, chosen in particular from a fatty alcohol dimer, a C2-C4monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol and pentaerythritol. It can also be a monoglycerol or polyglycerol or an ester thereof, or hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil (triglyceride of a hydroxy acid).
[0057] As examples of diols that may also be suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made, in a non-exhaustive manner, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, undecanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and isomers thereof.
[0058] A dimer fatty alcohol may also be the product of hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a dimer fatty acid, which is itself obtained by dimerization of an unsaturated, notably C8to C34, notably C12to C22, in particular C16to C20and more particularly C18, fatty acid.
[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the dimer fatty alcohol can be a dimer diol derived from the hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid. It is generally in a saturated form.
[0060] Preferably, the polyol is a dimer fatty alcohol such as, for example, dimer dilinoleol (Dimer Dilinoleyl Alcohol: INCI name).
[0061] As an example of a diol that may be suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of diglycerol. This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a water molecule. The term “diglycerol” denotes any isomer combination that can result from such a condensation, for instance linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from an intramolecular dehydration of a diglycerol molecule. The diglycerol may be obtained via any process known to those skilled in the art and especially those described in patent EP 0 750 848.
[0062] As examples of acid molecules that can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not employed in the ester bond with the dimer dilinoleic acid, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytosteric acid, stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or cetylic acid.
[0063] A polyester that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a polyol or an ester thereof with a dimer dilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0 : 0.2-1.0.
[0064] A polyester that may be suitable for use in the present invention may notably be obtained by reacting a dimer dilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, where appropriate, at least one additional monoalcohol, notably chosen from behenol, isostearol, sterol, notably phytosterol, stearol, cetol, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Thus, a polyester used in the context of the present invention may be used in the form of a mixture of various esters, for example.
[0066] A polyester that is suitable for the invention may also be obtained by reacting a diglycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimer dilinoleic acid, especially, in a molar ratio of 1.0 : 0.2-1.0 : 0.5-0.9.
[0067] A polyester that is suitable for the invention may likewise be obtained by reacting with a hydrogenated dimer acid, an ester compound resulting from the reaction of a polyglycerol with a degree of polymerization ranging from 2 to 4, with 12-hydroxystearic acid. For example, the polyester can be obtained by reacting diglycerol, 12-hydroxystearic acid and dimer dilinoleic acid in a molar ratio of 1 : 1-3 : 0.3-0.8.
[0068] According to another embodiment, the polyester is a copolymer resulting from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester. The molar ratio between the polycarboxylic acid and the hydroxy ester used for preparing the polyester according to the invention is preferably between 0.25 and 1. Mention may in particular be made of the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid in proportions of 2 to 1.
[0069] The polyesters which have just been mentioned are described in particular in applications FR2795309, JP2003-226609, JP2004-256515, JP2005-179377, JP2007284371 and JP2011-020933.
[0070] Among the polyesters that are suitable, mention may be made of the polyesters with the following INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, sold for example under the trade names Lusplan® DD-DA5 and DD-DA7.
[0071] Mention may also be made of the polyesters with the following INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, sold for example under the name Hailucent® ISDA, by the company Nippon Fine Chemical.
[0072] Mention may also be made of the compounds with the INCI names: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, sold in particular under the name Viscoplast® 14436H, and Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer, Viscoplast® Green 3000, sold by the company Biosynthis.
[0073] Also suitable are the polyesters with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and also mixtures thereof. These polyesters are sold in particular by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the names Plandool® G, Plandool® H and Plandool® S.
[0074] Mention may also be made of the polyesters with the INCI names: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate and Diglycerin / Dilinoleic Acid / Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer, sold respectively under the names Risocast® DA-H or DA-L and Risocast® HSDA by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co.
[0075] In accordance with a first embodiment of the invention, the first compound is chosen from polyesters that are solid at 20°C.
[0076] More particularly, these compounds are chosen from pasty compounds.
[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty compound” means a lipophilic fatty compound having, at a temperature of 20-25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting point of less than 20-25°C. The pasty compound is also a compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state.
[0078] The melting point (or melting temperature) of the pasty fatty compound can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.
[0079] The protocol is as follows:A sample of 5 mg of the solid compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.The melting point of said solid fatty compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid, notably crystalline, form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance pass from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
[0080] According to this embodiment, the first compound is more particularly chosen from the polyesters with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Diglycerin / Dilinoleic Acid / Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer, and mixtures thereof, preferably the first compound is chosen at least from Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] According to this embodiment, the content of first solid compound(s) represents from 5% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] In accordance with a second embodiment of the invention, the first compound is chosen from polyesters that are liquid at 20°C.
[0083] According to this embodiment, the first compound is chosen from the polyesters with the following INCI names: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer and mixtures thereof, preferably the first compound is at least chosen from Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate.
[0084] According to this embodiment, the content of first liquid compound(s) represents from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 7% to 20% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0085] Preferably, the weight ratio of squalane / first compound(s) varies between 1 and 3, more particularly between 1 and 2, preferably the limit 1 being excluded.SECOND SOLID HYDROCARBON COMPOUND
[0086] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second hydrocarbon compound which is solid at room temperature and is different from the first compounds mentioned above. These compounds are chosen from plant butters or butters derived from plant oils, polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C20monocarboxylic acids; and also mixtures thereof.
[0087] According to a first variant, the second solid hydrocarbon compound is chosen from plant butters, such as, for example, mango butter (INCI name: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), such as the product sold under the reference Trivent Mango Butter by Alzo, shea butter (INCI name: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), as sold under the references Lipex® 102 and Lipex® Shea, by AarhusKarlshamn, cupuacu butter (INCI name: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), sold for example under the name Rain Forest 03410 by Beraca Sabara, murumuru butter (INCI name: Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), sold in particular under the reference RAIN FOREST® 03710 by Beraca Sabara, cocoa butter (INCI name: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter) sold for example under the reference PPP Cocoa Butter Deodorised by Dutch Cocoa, jojoba butter (INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter) sold in particular by Desert Whale under the name Iso Jojoba 50, and also mixtures thereof.
[0088] Among the solid hydrocarbon compounds that are suitable, mention may also be made of butters derived from plant oils such as the compounds with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Vegetable oil, sold in particular under the name Akogel®by AarhusKarlshamn,under the name Cegesoft® HF 52 by BASF,Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, sold in particular under the name Softisan® 100 by IOI Oleo, partially hydrogenated olive oil, sold for example under the reference Beurrolive® by Soliance (INCI name: Hydrogenated Olive Oil), and mixtures thereof.
[0089] According to a second variant, also suitable are the esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched, preferably saturated, C6-C10dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated C6-C20monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C6-C20fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and the compound with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, sold for example under the reference Softisan® 649 by IOI Oleo.
[0090] Preferably, the second compound(s) are chosen from plant butters, compounds with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, and also mixtures thereof. More particularly, the second compound comprises at least Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2.
[0091] Advantageously, the content of second compound(s) represents from 5% to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] Preferably, the second compound(s) / first compound(s) weight ratio varies between 0.5 and 4, more particularly between 0.8 and 3.5, preferably between 0.9 and 3.2.POLAR NONVOLATILE HYDROCARBON OIL
[0093] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the first compound(s).
[0094] A “nonvolatile oil” denotes water-insoluble fatty compounds that are liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 105Pa) with a vapour pressure at 20°C that is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (OECD standard 104).
[0095] A “hydrocarbon oil” is understood as meaning an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one atom of oxygen, optionally of nitrogen. Since this oil does not contain any silicon atoms, it is therefore distinct from silicone oils. It may contain one or more alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, carbonate, amine and / or amide groups.
[0096] The polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil may be more particularly chosen from C10-C26 alcohols; ester oils, comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12; ethers of formula ROR’, carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR’, in which formulae, which may or may not be identical, the R and R’ groups represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably C3-C16, hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms; and also mixtures thereof.C10-C26 alcohols
[0097] The alcohols are more particularly alcohols which comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.
[0098] Preferably, said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.Ester oils
[0099] A polar hydrocarbon ester oil for the purposes of the invention comprises, further to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one ester function (-C(=O)-O-).
[0100] More particularly suitable are the nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, and also mixtures thereof. In addition, the ester oil can optionally comprise one or more hydroxy groups.
[0101] More particularly, the ester oil is chosen from:- plant oils;- ester oils other than plant oils, which are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; the polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid;- and also mixtures thereof.
[0102] Among the ester oils that are suitable, mention may thus be made of plant oils; ester oils other than plant oils, chosen from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated monoesters and diesters comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; triesters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, C2-C40monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C40polyols or monoalcohols; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated tetraesters comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms; polyesters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, of at least one monocarboxylic acid and of at least one dicarboxylic acid; and also mixtures thereof.
[0103] Among the plant oils, mention may for example be made of castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil,Rosa caninaoil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil,wheat germ oil, maize oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, hazelnut oil,Lesquerellaoil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.
[0104] The plant oil may preferably be chosen from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.
[0105] Among the ester oils other than plant oils, chosen from monoesters and diesters, mention may be made of those obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 and preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 26 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12 carbon atoms, advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably at least 16 carbon atoms, and also mixtures thereof.By way of example, mention may be made of 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, of caprylic acid and of a coconut-derived alcohol (C12-C18alcohols), 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.
[0106] Mention may also be made of optionally hydroxylated monoesters and diesters of a C2-C8monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C8alcohol, preferably comprising at least 12 carbon atoms. Suitable in particular for carrying out the invention are the monoesters of a C2-C8carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated; and the diesters of a C2-C8dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.
[0107] Mention may also be made of linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic monoesters and diesters of a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, and of diols, in particular glycols, especially of C2-C5, of glycerol or of polyglycerol (preferably 2 to 3 mol of glycerol), preferably comprising at least 12 carbon atoms. Mention may be made for example of propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and also mixtures thereof.
[0108] Among the ester oils other than plant oils, those suitable for the invention are the triesters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, C2-C40, preferably C4-C40monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, and from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C2-C40, preferably C3-C40polyols or monoalcohols; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.Mention may be made, for example, of triacetin and also triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated C4-C36fatty acids, more particularly saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C20fatty acids, such as, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid; in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides, such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, for example such as the products sold under the DUB MCT range by Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, C18-36acid triglycerides, such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarinerie Dubois, and glyceryl triisostearate.Mention may also be made of the triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol (preferably 2 or 3 mol of glycerol) with monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate) and glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate).Mention may also be made, by way of example, of triesters of an optionally hydroxylated C2-C9acid comprising three carboxyl functions with a C2-C20monoalcohol. Mention may be made of citric acid esters, such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tributyl acetylcitrate and likewise tridecyl trimellitate, and also mixtures thereof.
[0109] Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms include tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or else pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate), and also mixtures thereof.
[0110] Also suitable are polyesters derived from the esterification of a polyol, of at least one monocarboxylic acid and of at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US7317068. The polyol comprises more particularly 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, and is preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, preferably, stearic, isostearic, caprylic and capric acids, or combinations thereof. The linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic dicarboxylic acid comprises more particularly 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid. Examples include the product with the INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, sold in particular under the name Supermol® L by Croda, and the product with the INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, sold under the name Lexfeel® 700 EX-LO- MB by Inolex.
[0111] Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from:- plant oils, in particular castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof;- diesters, obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 26 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12; such as, for example, diisostearyl malate;- optionally hydroxylated triesters, other than plant oils, obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated C2-C40monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C40polyols or monoalcohols, such as, for example, saturated or unsaturated C4-C36, more particularly linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C20, fatty acid triglycerides, notably Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (INCI name); triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol (preferably 2 or 3 mol of glycerol) with monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate: INCI name) and tridecyl trimellitate;- linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated tetraesters notably comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate;- mixtures thereof.Nonvolatile ether or carbonate oils
[0112] Among the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils that are suitable, mention may be made of ethers of formula ROR’ or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR’, in which formulae, which may or may not be identical, the groups R and R’ represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16group.
[0113] Preferably, the oil(s) may be chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and also mixtures thereof.
[0114] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from ester oils, even more particularly chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oils, different from the first compounds, comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12; and also mixtures thereof.
[0115] In accordance with a more particular embodiment, the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from plant oils; ester oils, other than plant oils, which are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; mixtures thereof.
[0116] Preferably, the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from:- plants oils;- ester oils other than plant oils, chosen from:* diesters obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol comprising from 2 to 26 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxy groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12; such as, for example, diisostearyl malate;* optionally hydroxylated triesters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, C2-C40monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C40polyols or monoalcohols, such as linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated triglycerides of C4-C36, more particularly C8-C20, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate or tridecyl trimellitate;- linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated tetraesters notably comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate;- mixtures thereof.
[0117] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil(s) represents from 15% to 80% by weight and preferably from 25% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.OPTIONAL OILS
[0118] The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one optional oil, different from the abovementioned squalane, first compounds and polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils.
[0119] The optional oil(s) may be more particularly chosen from nonpolar hydrocarbon oils, from volatile or nonvolatile silicone oils, and also mixtures thereof.
[0120] A “nonpolar hydrocarbon oil” denotes hydrocarbon compounds which are liquid at 20°C and comprise only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure.
[0121] A “silicone oil” denotes an oil (liquid at 20°C) containing at least one silicon atom, and notably containing Si-O groups.
[0122] A “volatile oil” denotes an oil having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa.Optional nonpolar hydrocarbon oils
[0123] These oils may have a variety of origins, mineral or synthetic, notably derived from the petrochemical industry.
[0124] As examples of nonpolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of liquid paraffin; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, sold for example under the Parleam® range by Nippon Oil & Fat; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, notably from the Silkflo range sold by Ineos; and mixtures thereof.
[0125] Among the nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to less than 14 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and in particular:- branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane;- linear alkanes, preferably for example such as the mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol respectively under the reference Parafol 12-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) notably obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
[0126] Advantageously, if the composition contains such optional oils, their content represents less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferentially, the composition does not comprise any nonpolar hydrocarbon oil derived from the petrochemical industry.Optional silicone oils
[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises limited contents of volatile or nonvolatile silicone oils, and even more preferentially, is free thereof.
[0128] Mention may in particular be made, as examples of volatile silicone oils, of dimethicones with a viscosity of less than 5 cSt (5 x 10-3mm² / s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0129] As regards the nonvolatile silicone oils, the latter may be non-phenyl silicone oils, or phenyl silicone oils optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.
[0130] The term “phenyl” specifies that said oil includes, in its structure, at least one phenyl radical.
[0131] The term “dimethicone fragment” denotes a divalent siloxane group, the silicon atom of which bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.
[0132] Preferably, the silicones do not contain a C2-C3alkylene oxide group or a glycerolated group.
[0133] Among the non-volatile non-phenyl silicones, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: DIMETHICONE), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C2-C24alkyl group, and also mixtures thereof.
[0134] Among the non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and also mixtures thereof.
[0135] With regard to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oils with no dimethicone fragment(s), mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, alone or as mixtures.
[0136] More particularly, if the composition comprises any, the content of silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition is preferably free thereof.MINERAL THICKENER
[0137] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral thickener chosen more particularly from silicas which may or may not be hydrophobically treated; lipophilic clays, alone or as a mixture, and preferably silica which may or may not be hydrophobically treated. It should be noted that the mineral thickener is different from the fillers which will be described below.Silicas
[0138] The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, as mineral thickener, a fumed silica, preferably a hydrophobic fumed silica, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.a) Fumed silica
[0139] Fumed silica which has been hydrophobically surface treated is suitable for use in the invention. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
[0140] The hydrophobic groups may be:- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as “Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot.- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as “Silica Dimethyl Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.b) Silica aerogels
[0141] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0142] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W.,Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
[0143] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better still from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.
[0144] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.
[0145] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described inThe Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
[0146] The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000 particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0147] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.
[0148] The aerogels are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).
[0149] They may notably be obtained by surface treatment with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
[0150] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US 7 470 725.
[0151] Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
[0152] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0153] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
[0154] Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.Lipophilic clays
[0155] The mineral thickener that can be used within the context of the present invention may also be a lipophilic clay.
[0156] A “lipophilic clay” is understood as meaning any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in an oily phase.
[0157] The term “clay” more particularly denotes a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates of lamellar structure.
[0158] The clays may be natural or synthetic. Mention may be made, as examples of such products, of clays of the family of the smectites, and also of the family of the vermiculites, stevensite or chlorites. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0159] Preferably, use is made of organophilic clays, more particularly of modified clays, such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite or sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
[0160] More particularly, the clays are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as an ammonium halide, such as, for example, a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, possibly comprising an aromatic group. In particular, mention may be made of halides, such as stearalkonium, benzalkonium or dialkyldimethylammonium, for example distearyldimethylammonium, chlorides.
[0161] The lipophilic clay may be present in the form of a powder or in a form that is predispersed in a solvent chosen, for example, from C1-C2 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol; propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] The lipophilic clay suitable for carrying out the invention may be chosen from the modified hectorites having the following INCI names: Disteardimonium Hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, alone or as mixtures, preferably Disteardimonium Hectorite.
[0163] The lipophilic bentonite suitable for carrying out the invention may be chosen from the bentonites having the following INCI names: Quaternium-18 Bentonites, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, alone or as mixtures.
[0164] Among the modified hectorites that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of:*among Disteardimonium Hectorites: Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone Gels;*among Stearalkonium Hectorites: Bentone 27V; sold by Elementis Specialties.
[0165] Among the modified bentonites that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made, alone or as mixtures, of:*among Quaternium-18 Bentonites: Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP marketed by Byk Additives Inc;*among Stearalkonium Bentonites, Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, Claytone APA marketed by Byk Additives Inc;*among Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonites: Claytone HT sold by the company BYK Additives Inc.
[0166] According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is chosen from lipophilic hectorites, in particular Disteardimonium Hectorite.
[0167] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickener chosen from silica, preferably hydrophobically treated silica, and even more preferentially a hydrophobic silica with the INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate.
[0168] More particularly, the content of lipophilic thickener represents from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0169] Preferably, if the composition comprises, as thickener, silica, preferably hydrophobically treated silica, and even more preferentially a hydrophobic silica with the INCI name Silica Dimethyl Silylate, then its content is advantageously between 2% and 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.WAXES
[0170] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one polar or nonpolar hydrocarbon wax.
[0171] A “polar hydrocarbon wax” means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one atom of oxygen, optionally of nitrogen. These compounds thus do not contain any silicon atoms.
[0172] A “nonpolar hydrocarbon wax” means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0173] More particularly, for the purposes of the invention, it is recalled that a wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (20°C), in particular with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 45°C and less than or equal to 120°C.
[0174] Protocol for measuring the melting temperature of a wax
[0175] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
[0176] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 2000 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.
[0177] The measuring protocol is as follows:A sample of 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is lastly subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the wax is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve.
[0178] More particularly, the polar hydrocarbon wax may be chosen from alcohol waxes, ester waxes, or mixtures thereof, and preferably at least from ester waxes.
[0179] According to the invention, the term “ester wax” means a hydrocarbon wax comprising at least one ester function (-O-C(=O)-). The ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.
[0180] According to the invention, an “alcohol wax” means a hydrocarbon wax different from ester waxes, and comprising at least one hydroxyl function (-OH).
[0181] The polar ester hydrocarbon waxes that can be used in the context of the present invention include, alone or in mixtures, the following:
[0182] i) Waxes of formula R1COOR2in which R1and R2represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and the melting temperature of which varies from 45°C to 120°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C.In particular, use may be made, as ester wax, of a C20-C40alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or of a C20-C40alkyl stearate. Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester® K 82 P, Kester Wax® K 80 P or Kester Wax® K82H by the company Koster Keunen. Use may also be made of waxes of cetyl palmitate type, and likewise of mixtures of esters of C14-C18carboxylic acids and alcohols, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MBAL and Crodamol MS PA from Croda, and Miraceti from Laserson.
[0183] ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3OCO-R4-COO-R5, in which R3and R5are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30alkyl group and R4represents a linear or branched C4-C30aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
[0184] iii) Waxes of animal or plant origin.Mention may be made, as examples of suitable waxes, of beeswax, lanolin wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax and montan wax, which may optionally be refined, and also mixtures thereof.
[0185] iv) Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or plant oils, or else by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of plant origin (for instance lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl and behenyl alcohols) and plant oil, such as olive oil or castor oil.Mention may more particularly be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32fatty chains, for example hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil and hydrogenated coconut oil.As waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of plant origin and plant oil, mention may also be made of the waxes with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names Phytowax® Olive 12 L44, Phytowax® Olive 14 L 48, Phytowax® Olive 16 L 55, Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57, Phytowax® Ricin 16 L 64, Phytowax® Ricin 18 L 69 and Phytowax® Ricin 22 L 73 by Sophim. Such waxes are described in the application FR2792190.
[0186] v) Natural or synthetic polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated waxes of animal or plant origin; preferably polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax and PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or unhydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin and PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, esters obtained from the reaction of the plant waxes Acacia Decurrens flower wax, jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.
[0187] vi) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30carboxylic acid with glycerol, for instance glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: Tristearin), glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: Tribehenin), alone or as a mixture.
[0188] The alcohol waxes include saturated or unsaturated C12-C24, preferably C14-C20, preferentially C14-C18 fatty alcohols which are solid at 20°C, examples being the alcohols chosen from cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C16-C22 alcohols, and also mixtures thereof.
[0189] Among the nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, mention may in particular be made of microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also mixtures thereof.
[0190] Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the wax is chosen from polar hydrocarbon waxes, more especially ester waxes, even more particularly from waxes of animal or plant origin; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or plant oils, or else by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of plant origin and plant oil; and also mixtures thereof.
[0191] More particularly, the content of wax(es), if the composition comprises any, is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition is free of wax(es).COLORANTS
[0192] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one colorant.
[0193] According to one particular form of the invention, the colorant may be chosen from pulverulent colorants, such as mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof; fat-soluble dyes; water-soluble dyes; and mixtures thereof.Pulverulent colorants
[0194] The pulverulent colorants may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.
[0195] The term “pigments” means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and / or organic.
[0196] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0197] The term “mineral pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, (black, yellow or red) iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
[0198] The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.
[0199] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[0050] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.
[0200] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicronic to multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C.,Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0201] D
[0050] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
[0202] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.
[0203] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0204] According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
[0205] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0206] The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
[0207] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminium stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
[0208] According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments may be coated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT)-treated pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and the black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by Kobo.
[0209] The pigments that may be used according to the invention may also be organic pigments.
[0210] The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
[0211] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0212] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
[0213] The pigment may also be a lake. The term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0214] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0215] Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0216] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0217] The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0218] Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one pulverulent colorant, their content ranges from 0.001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Liposoluble or water-soluble colorants
[0219] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or liposoluble colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired colour effect and of the colour intensity afforded by the colorants under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
[0221] The colorants that are suitable for use in the invention may be liposoluble.
[0222] For the purposes of the invention, the term “liposoluble colorant” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting colour.
[0223] As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
[0224] The colorants that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble.
[0225] For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble colorant” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.
[0226] As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.
[0227] The water-soluble or liposoluble colorant(s), if the composition comprises any, are preferably present in contents of less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.FILLERS
[0228] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers, and also mixtures thereof.
[0229] The term “filler” denotes a particle of organic or mineral nature which is colourless or white, which is solid, which has any shape and which is insoluble in the medium of the composition at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure. These fillers are advantageously dispersed in the composition.MINERAL FILLERS
[0230] A “mineral filler” is understood as meaning any compound in which the chemical structure does not comprise a carbon atom, disregarding the presence of any coating of said filler.
[0231] The fillers are in the form of particles and are different from the colorants described previously.
[0232] The fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other form intermediate between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, i.e. they may comprise at least a rounded general portion, notably defining at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, and the like), or lamellar.
[0233] In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers more particularly have a mean particle size (expressed as volume-mean diameter - D[0.5]) of at least 1 µm, preferably of at least 2 µm, advantageously of between 2 and 15 µm. The size of the particles can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial Mastersizer 3000 particle size analyzer from the company Malvern (see also the standard ISO 13320).
[0234] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and in particular they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, in particular promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones, in particular silanes; fluorinated derivatives, fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited previously notably denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0235] Such fillers are advantageously chosen from:
[0236] - silica (INCI name: Silica), preferably in the form of spherical particles, such as the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Myoshi; “Sunsphere H51”, “Sunsphere H33” by Asahi Glass; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name “SA Sunsphere H 33” and “SA Sunsphere H53” by Asahi Glass; hollow silica microspheres. Preferably, the silica has not been hydrophobically treated.
[0237] - perlite, such as those sold by the company World Minerals under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040 or OpTiMat 1430 OR or 2550 OR. Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by the company Imerys.
[0238] - zeolites such as the products sold by the company Zeochem under the names ZeoFlair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT.
[0239] - calcium magnesium carbonate particles, such as those sold by the company Imerys under the name Calcidol, by the company LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat or by the company Omya under the name Omyacare S 60-AV. Calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite are also suitable.
[0240] - particles of kaolin or talc, for example sold under the Imercare, Imercare Pharma and Luzenac Pharma ranges by the company Imerys; Rose Talc by the company Nippon Talc.
[0241] - natural or synthetic mica, such as the product with the INCI name Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, sold under the names RonaFlair Silk Mica by the company Merck, Sericite PHN by the company Presperse, NHS-100 and NHS-150 by the company Myoshi Kasei, or sold under the names PDM-NSO or FNK-100 by the company Topy.
[0242] - boron nitride; composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass; bismuth oxychloride;
[0243] - glass or ceramic microcapsules; for example, borosilicate particles.
[0244] - mixtures thereof.
[0245] Preferably, kaolin, mica and optionally silica, and also mixtures thereof, may be used as mineral filler.
[0246] In accordance with one particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of mineral filler(s) represents less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.ORGANIC FILLERS
[0247] For the purposes of the invention, the term “organic filler” refers to solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon compound, independently of their coating.
[0248] The fillers are in the form of particles which also may or may not be surface-treated by means of compounds such as those described above in the context of the mineral fillers.
[0249] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, i.e. they may comprise at least a rounded general portion, notably defining at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, and the like), or lamellar.
[0250] Among the fillers that are suitable, mention may be made of:
[0251] - natural or synthetic micronized waxes.
[0252] - metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.
[0253] - natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, and in particular starch powders, especially crosslinked or non-crosslinked maize, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo® by the company National Starch or powders of waxy maize starch, such as those which are sold under the names C* Gel 04201 by the company Cargill, Corn Starch B by the company Roquette and Organic Corn Starch by the company Draco Natural Products.
[0254] - cellulose, in particular in the form of spherical particles, such as for example products of the Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF type sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.
[0255] - N-(C8-C22 acyl)amino acids; the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine. Mention may be made, for example, of lauroyl lysine notably sold under the names Amihope LL by the company Ajinomoto or Corum 5105 by the company Corum.
[0256] - particles of acrylic (co)polymers and derivatives thereof, in particular:* of polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer), sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, or of Polymethyl Methacrylate, under the names Sepimat P by the company SEPPIC and Microsphere M-100® by the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku;* of polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (INCI name Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber by the company Dow Corning;* of crosslinked acrylate (INCI name: Acrylates Crosspolymer) sold, for example, under the name Ganzpearl GMP-0820 by the company Ganz Chemical,* of polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sold under the name Poly-Pore L200 or Poly-Pore E200 by the company Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.;* of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer (INCI name: Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Polytrap 6603 Adsorber by the company Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.;* of crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by the company Sekisui Plastics;* of ethylene-acrylate copolymer, such as that sold under the name Flobeads® by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals.
[0257] - particles of acrylonitrile (co)polymer, in particular the expanded hollow particles sold under the name Expancel by the company Akzo Nobel, or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by the company Matsumoto.
[0258] - polyurethane particles, for example sold under the names D-400, D-800 (INCI name: HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), CS-400 (INCI name: HDI / PPG / Polycaprolactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), by the company Toshiki.
[0259] - polyamide particles, such as Nylon®, in particular Nylon 12, Nylon 6 / 12; such as the nylon powders sold under the names Orgasol 2002 EXS NAT COS, Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse, by the company Arkema.
[0260] - particles of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®).
[0261] - silicone fillers, in particular chosen from:* silicone resin particles such as those with the INCI name Polymethylsilsesquioxane, notably sold under the name Tospearl, in particular Tospearl 145 A, by the company Momentive Performance Materials,* silicone elastomer particles coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, such as the products sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 (INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer), or KSP-300 (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer) by the company Shin Etsu;* silicone elastomer particles such as the products sold under the name Dowsil 9506 Cosmetic Powder, by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer);* Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer particles, for example in the shape of bowls, such as those sold notably under the name TAK-110 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat.
[0262] Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the organic filler may be chosen from cellulose particles, particles of N-(C8-C22acyl)amino acids, such as lauroyllysine, and also mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially cellulose particles.
[0263] In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of organic filler(s) represents less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0264] Preferably, the composition does not comprise any filler of acrylic (co)polymers, and derivatives thereof, acrylonitrile (co)polymer, polyurethane, polyamide or tetrafluoroethylene polymers type, or any silicone fillers, or if it does contain any, the content thereof does not exceed 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.WATER
[0265] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water. Preferably, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition comprises any, does not exceed 1% by weight, in particular does not exceed 0.5% by weight and more particularly still does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS
[0266] In the context of the present invention, the composition may also contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those usually used in the cosmetics field, in particular for compositions for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips.
[0267] By way of examples, mention may be made of organic thickeners such as, for example, dextrin esters; preservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; active agents; fragrances; etc.
[0268] These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.
[0269] These optional adjuvants may be present in a content which may range up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0270] The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0271] The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.
[0272] The amounts indicated are percentages by weight of starting materials, unless otherwise stated.EXAMPLESEXAMPLE 1
[0273] The following composition, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, was prepared:
[0274] Ingredients (INCI name, chemical name)Composition 1Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 643, Cremer Oleo)19.1Diisostearyl Malate10.3Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearateqs 100Tridecyl Trimellitate11.3AntioxidantqsDimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippon Fine Chemical)15.0Pentylene Glycol / Caprylyl Glycol1.5Squalane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris)20.0Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R 972; Evonik Degussa)8.0Preparation process
[0275] 1. All the ingredients except the silica are mixed with stirring at a temperature of between 85°C and 90°C.
[0276] 2. Once the mixture has been homogenized, the silica is added with stirring.3. After a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, the composition is left to cool with stirring.4. It is packaged in a gloss-type bottle equipped with a dip applicator.Evaluation of the composition
[0277] A stable, transparent composition is obtained.
[0278] It is easily applied as a comfortable, precise, non-greasy, uniform, shiny deposit which is only very slightly tacky and is not runny.
[0279] The deposit is comfortable, with a “cushion” effect, bringing a feeling of moisturization. It leaves the lips soft, with no feeling of tightness.EXAMPLE 2
[0280] The following composition, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, was prepared:
[0281] PhaseIngredients (INCI name, chemical name)Composition 2ABis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649, Cremer Oleo)23.3ADiisostearyl Malate12.6APentaerythrityl Tetraisostearateqs 100%ATridecyl Trimellitate13.8AAntioxidantqsABis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G; Nippon Fine Chemical)7.0ACaprylyl Glycol / Pentylene Glycol1.5ASqualane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris)10.0BSilica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R 972; Evonik)8.0CAdditivesqsCSodium Hyaluronate / Ceramide5.0DFragranceqsPreparation process
[0282] 1. All the ingredients of phase A are mixed with stirring at a temperature of between 85°C and 90°C.
[0283] 2. Once the mixture has been homogenized, the silica is added with stirring.3. After a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, the ingredients of phase C and then phase D are added with stirring, and once the mixture has been homogenized, the composition is left to cool with stirring.4. The composition is packaged in a gloss-type bottle equipped with a dip applicator.Evaluation of the composition
[0284] A stable, transparent composition is obtained.
[0285] It is easily applied as a comfortable, precise, non-greasy, uniform, shiny deposit which is not very tacky and is not runny.
[0286] The deposit is comfortable, with a “cushion” effect, bringing a feeling of moisturization. It leaves the lips soft, with no feeling of tightness.Example 3
[0287] The following composition, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, was prepared:
[0288] PhaseIngredients (INCI name, chemical name)Composition 3ABis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 643, Cremer Oleo)17.2ADiisostearyl Malate9.3APentaerythrityl Tetraisostearateqs 100ATridecyl Trimellitate10.1ASqualane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris)20.0AAntioxidantqsADimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippon Fine Chemical)15.0APentylene Glycol3.0BSilica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R 972; Evonik Degussa)8.0CRed 71.2CIron oxide (CI77492)0.8DSodium Hyaluronate / Ceramide5.0DActive agentsqsPreparation process
[0289] 1. Pigment preparation: the pigments are mixed with a sufficient fraction of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and the whole mixture is placed on a three-roll mill until a homogeneous paste is obtained.2. The remaining portion of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate is mixed with the other ingredients of phase A with stirring at a temperature of between 85°C and 90°C.3. Once the mixture has been homogenized, the pigment preparation from step 1 is added, with stirring at the same temperature.4. Once the mixture has been homogenized, the silica is added with stirring, at the same temperature.5. After homogenization, the active agents are added and stirring is maintained until homogenization is obtained.6. The resulting mixture is left to cool with stirring and the composition is packaged in a gloss-type bottle equipped with a dip applicator.Evaluation of the composition
[0290] A stable composition is obtained.It is easily applied as a comfortable, uniform and covering and shiny deposit.The deposit is comfortable and non-greasy, is not very tacky and is not runny, with no feeling of tightness.COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 4
[0291] The following compositions, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared:Composition A outside the invention: composition in which the squalane content is transferred to the Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate content.
[0292] Composition B outside the invention: composition in which the squalane content is transferred to the Pentaerythrityl Tetraostearate content.Composition 4 according to the invention.
[0293] Ingredients (INCI name)PhaseComposition AComposition BComposition 4Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 643, Cremer Oleo)A23.823.823.8Diisostearyl MalateA12.912.912.9Pentaerythrityl TetraisostearateAqs 100qs 100qs 100Tridecyl TrimellitateA14.114.114.1Caprylyl glycol / Pentylene glycolA1.51.51.5AntioxidantAqsqsqsDimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A17.07.07.0Squalane(Neossance Squalane, Amyris)A--10.0Silica Dimethyl Silylate(Aerosil R972; Evonik Degussa)B8.08.08.0Sodium Hyaluronate / CeramideC3.53.53.5Active agentsCqsqsqsFragranceDqsqsqsPreparation process
[0294] 1. The ingredients of phase A are mixed with stirring at a temperature of between 85°C and 90°C.
[0295] 2. Once the mixture has been homogenized, the silica is added with stirring.3. After a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, the active agents and the fragrance are added and then the composition is left to cool with stirring.4. It is packaged in a gloss-type bottle equipped with a dip applicator.Evaluation of the composition
[0296] EVALUATIONComposition AComposition BComposition 1Appearance of the composition17.5 Pa.s11.8 Pa.s10.2 Pa.sApplicationThick composition difficult to withdraw with the applicator.Easy withdrawal and application of the composition as a uniform depositEasy withdrawal and application of the composition as a uniform depositDepositMuch less comfortable as very tacky and runny on smushing (*).Slightly shinier deposit than composition B.Very slightly tacky but slightly runny on smushing (*).Perceptible change over time in the thickness of the deposit at the run points (overthickness).Slightly more tacky than that of composition B. Remains very comfortable and not runny.Deposit which remains uniform (thickness), slightly shinier than composition B.Gloss82.679.282.7
[0297] (*) Smushing: the lips are pressed against each other and then slowly separated.
Claims
Liquid cosmetic composition comprising:* squalane, preferably plant squalane;* at least one first compound chosen from polyesters obtained at least from at least one monounsaturated or polyunsaturated dimer fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;* at least one second compound, which is solid at room temperature, chosenfrom plant butters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C20monocarboxylic acids; and also mixtures thereof;* at least one polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the first compound(s);* at least one mineral thickener;* optionally water at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of squalane represents from 5% to 40% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 30% by weight, in particular from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first compound(s) represents from 5% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first compound is chosen from polyesters with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Diglycerin / Dilinoleic Acid / Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer, and mixtures thereof, preferably the first compound is chosen at least from Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of first compound(s) represents from 5% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first compound is chosen from polyesters with the following INCI names: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer and mixtures thereof, preferably the first compound is at least chosen from Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of first compound(s) represents from 5% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 7% to 20% by weight and preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of squalane / first compound(s) varies between 1 and 3, more particularly between 1 and 2, preferably the limit 1 being excluded.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second compound is chosen from plant butters and the compounds with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and mixtures thereof; preferably the second compound is chosen at least from Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second compound(s) represents from 5% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second compound(s) / first compound(s) weight ratio varies between 0.5 and 4, more particularly between 0.8 and 3.5, preferably between 0.9 and 3.2.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral thickener is chosen from optionally modified clays, optionally modified silicas, or mixtures thereof, preferably from silicas, preferably hydrophobic silicas.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of mineral thickener represents from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises, as thickener, silica, preferably a hydrophobic silica with the INCI name Silica Dimethyl Silylate, in a content of between 2% and 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of water, if the composition comprises any, does not exceed 1% by weight, and preferably does not exceed 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon ester oils, different from the first compounds, comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12; C10-C26fatty alcohols, which are preferably monohydroxylated; ethers of formula ROR’, carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR’, in which formulae, which may or may not be identical, the R and R’ groups represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably C3-C16hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms; and also mixtures thereof, preferably from plant oils; optionally hydroxylated ester oils, other than plant oils, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radical, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; polyesters derived from the esterification of a polyol, of at least one monocarboxylic acid and of at least one dicarboxylic acid; and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from:- plants oils;- ester oils other than plant oils, chosen from:* diesters obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol comprising from 2 to 26 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxy groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12; such as, for example, diisostearyl malate;* optionally hydroxylated triesters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, C2-C40monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C40polyols or monoalcohols, such as linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated triglycerides of C4-C36, more particularly C8-C20, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate or tridecyl trimellitate;* linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated tetraesters notably comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as penthaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate;- and also mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil(s) represents from 15% to 80% by weight and preferably from 25% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise at least one colorant chosen from pulverulent colorants, such as mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof; fat-soluble dyes; water-soluble dyes; and also mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not contain any nonpolar volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil(s), in particular originating from the petrochemical industry, or if it does contain any, the content represents less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it may contain at least one apolar hydrocarbon wax, polar hydrocarbon wax preferably chosen from alcohol waxes, ester waxes, or mixtures thereof; advantageously at a content of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is free of wax(es).Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not contain any volatile or nonvolatile silicone oil, or if it does contain any, it is at a content of less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a composition having a viscosity, measured at 25°C, of between 2 and 14 Pa.s, preferably between 5 and 11 Pa.s.Method for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the lips, which consists in applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
Citation Information
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