Anhydrous composition with a particular polyester, a volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil and a volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester

Abstract

Title: Anhydrous composition with a particular polyester, a volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil and a volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty monoacid; b) optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; and c) at least one volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; and d) at least one volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester chosen from linear or branched, saturated lactates with 6 to 9 carbon atoms; 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol; and mixtures thereof; the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) ranging from 70 / 30 to 5 / 95. The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the contour of the eyes, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, in which said composition is applied.

Description

Anhydrous composition with a particular polyester, a volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil and a volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester

[0001] The present invention aims to propose, for the field of caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes or eyebrows, an anhydrous composition comprising at least one particular polyester, at least one volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester.

[0002] Many cosmetic makeup compositions containing colorants, such as foundations, correctors, lipsticks or lip glosses, have been developed to improve the wear performance and transfer resistance properties. Specifically, poor wear performance may be reflected in particular by poor persistence of the colour (changing or fading) and / or of the gloss of the deposit. This consequently obliges the user to reapply the makeup more often than desired, which may be considered as lost time.

[0003] Improving the wear property of compositions is obtained by means of compositions which form a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents which evaporate on contact with the skin or the lips, leaving behind a layer comprising waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments and fillers. Film-forming polymers are synthetic polymers, usually silicone or acrylic polymers. Thus, mention may be made of the use of silicone resins, for instance trimethyl siloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or resins which comprise silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name). Acrylic polymers such as acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers are also used. However, these compositions are often considered less comfortable, or even uncomfortable, from a sensory point of view for consumers.

[0004] Moreover, in recent years, consumers have become increasingly demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products and are in particular seeking to use products with a larger content of natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, ingredients of which the environmental impact is minimized and / or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.

[0005] The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not, however, want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed regarding the products they already use.

[0006] It has already been proposed, in makeup compositions of the prior art, to use liquid or pasty polyesters to obtain staying power properties.

[0007] Mention may notably be made of JP2002-128623, JP2002-128628, JP2002-128629 and EP1604634, which describe polyesters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleyl diol dimers having the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as those sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0008] To obtain staying power properties in makeup compositions, it has also been proposed, in FR2931673, to use polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of diol; in particular, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and of 1,4-butanediol, such as the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer).

[0009] It is also known practice, notably in FR2931069, JP2005-325079 and JP2006-28129, to use polyesters of hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and of a saturated fatty diacid to provide staying power to makeup compositions. As examples of polyesters, mention may be made in particular of those having the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Crodabond CSA® by Croda, and also the hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate having the INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, such as the product sold under the names Risocast-DA-L® and Risocast DA-H® by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.

[0010] Compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials often contain volatile lipophilic compounds. The latter are used to obtain wear properties, optical properties such as mattness and to improve the pleasantness of products when they are applied.

[0011] Among these volatile compounds, volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils are increasingly used because they avoid the presence of silicones in cosmetic or dermatological products, especially those based on natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin. However, they have the disadvantage of being non-polar, which is not favourable for solubilizing constituents of natural origin, which are usually polar. This is particularly the case for constituents that are used to provide wear properties, such as polyesters.

[0012] When the composition is anhydrous, the polarity can be increased by mixing these alkanes with absolute ethanol, but this is not always compatible with these polymers.

[0013] Moreover, ethanol can be a source of discomfort, thereby limiting its content.

[0014] Patent application US 2021 / 0259946 A1 by Nouryon Chemicals discloses water-resistant, anhydrous anti-sun compositions comprising at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0015] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0016] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0017] (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty monoacid and at least one volatile organic solvent chosen from monoalcohols such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol; volatile hydrocarbons such as isooctane, isododecane and isohexadecane; volatile silicones; aldehydes and ketones such as acetone and methyl ether ketone. However, some of these volatile polar solvents such as ethanol and isopropanol are not compatible with said polyester and tend to produce compositions with a heterogeneous appearance.

[0018] There remains the need to find new compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials based on volatile organic solvents and a polyester compatible with the latter producing good performance in terms of wear and non-transfer; said compositions comprising a high content of natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, ingredients of which the environmental impact is minimized and / or ingredients that are compatible with many packagings.

[0019] During its numerous research studies, the applicant has unexpectedly discovered that these objectives can be achieved with a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0020] a) at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0021] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0022] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0023] (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty monoacid;

[0024] b) optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; and

[0025] c) at least one volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; and

[0026] d) at least one volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester chosen from linear or branched, saturated lactates containing from 6 to 9 carbon atoms; 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol; and mixtures thereof;

[0027] the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) ranging from 70 / 30 to 5 / 95.

[0028] This discovery forms the basis of the invention.Subjects of the invention

[0029] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0030] a) at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0031] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0032] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0033] (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, of 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and of 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid; and

[0034] b) optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; and

[0035] c) at least one volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; and

[0036] d) at least one volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester chosen from linear or branched, saturated lactates containing from 6 to 9 carbon atoms; 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol; and mixtures thereof; and

[0037] the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) ranging from 70 / 30 to 5 / 95.

[0038] The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the contour of the eyes, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to keratin materials of a composition as defined above.Definitions

[0039] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the lips, the contour of the eyes, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.

[0040] The term “physiologically acceptable” is understood to mean compatible with the skin, the lips, the contour of the eyes, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, having a pleasant colour, odour and feel and not generating unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tautness) likely to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

[0041] For the purposes of the invention, the expression “anhydrous composition” denotes, respectively, a composition which contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, indeed even less than 0.5% of water, relative to its total weight, and in particular a composition which is free of water.

[0042] The term “polyester” is understood to mean any polymer obtained by a condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular backbone contains the repetition of its ester function. The ester function denotes a characteristic group formed of an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, the general form of which is R-COO-R'.

[0043] The term “polyglycerol-3” is understood to mean triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is predominant in said mixture.

[0044] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "compatible volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent" means the obtaining of a homogeneous and clear liquid mixture when 10% by weight of the polyester as defined above a), or 10% by weight of a solution with an oil if sold in this form, is mixed with 90% by weight of the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent d), at ambient temperature, after standing for 10 minutes following preparation.

[0045] Polyglycerol-3 / dimer acid / C8-C30fatty monoacid polyester a)

[0046] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises a) at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of components (i), (ii) and (iii) below:

[0047] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0048] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0049] (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids.

[0050] The polyesters of the invention, and also their synthesis, are described in patent applications US 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930.

[0051] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount, as active material, of polyester varies from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

[0053] The term “substantially non-sequential reaction product” means the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0054] The term “totally non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii)” means that the total content of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be made to react is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0055] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be made to react is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction, that is to say that the reaction is totally non-sequential, and the polymer is a product of totally non-sequential reaction of the components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0056] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and the subsequent induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

[0057] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly denotes a glycerol residue after removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0058] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols which can be any product of oligocondensation of glycerol. They preferably correspond to formula (I):

[0059]

[0060] in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is a mean from 2 to 10.

[0061] Generally, the majority of the Gly groups are of the formula:

[0062] -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues comprising etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are regarded as being within the scope of “Gly” and, consequently, may also be present.

[0063] Examples of polyglycerol-3 comprise diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures of these. In particular, preferential polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in whichnin particular has a value from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5 and in particular 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of oligoglycerols in these ranges.

[0064] Particularly appropriate examples of polyglycerol-3 comprise a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution, in which all the weight percentages are based relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture:

[0065] - glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, most preferably 0% to 15% by weight;

[0066] - diglycerol: 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 35% by weight, most preferably 20% to 32% by weight;

[0067] - triglycerol: 10% to 65% by weight, preferably 15% to 60% by weight, most preferably 18% to 55% by weight;

[0068] - tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, most preferably 8% to 20% by weight;

[0069] - pentaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight;

[0070] - hexaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight;

[0071] - heptaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight;

[0072] - octaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight;

[0073] - nonaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, most preferably 0% to 2% by weight;

[0074] - decaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, most preferably 0% to 2% by weight.

[0075] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises the following distribution of polyglycerols:

[0076] Glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight;

[0077] Diglycerol: 15% to 40% by weight;

[0078] Triglycerol: 10% to 55% by weight;

[0079] Tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight;

[0080] Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0081] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture is composed of at least 40% by weight, or of at least 45% by weight, or of at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and of triglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0082] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture is composed of at least 20% by weight, or of at least 25% by weight, of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, of tetraglycerol; in which all the percentages by weight are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0083] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0084] The analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition may be performed so as to determine its median or “mean” polyglycerol number. The above examples of polyglycerols with narrow and broad distributions can also be denoted as polyglycerol-3 because it is a matter of the integer closest to the mean and / or median.Dimer acid

[0085] The dimer acid may be any dicarboxylic acid containing at least 4 carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched, for instance the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and from anhydrides thereof.

[0086] Dimer fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0087] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference will be made to the publication “The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and Physical Properties, Reactions and Applications”, Ed. E. C. Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0088] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed a mean molar value of 2.4.

[0089] Preferred dimer acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce unsaturated fatty C18monoacids. The starting materials may be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources, such as flax seeds, soybean, pumpkin and walnut, may be used. The target monoacids used in the reaction are rich in forms of oleic and linoleic acids which are described in the list of fatty acids which is contained below. Dimerization results mainly in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After reaction, the product may be stored in the form of a mixture of reaction products or it may be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a predominance (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimer acid (C36diacid) but also produces C54trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0090] In one case, a standard dimer acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, which contains 72% by weight of dimer acid and 19% by weight of trimer acid, is used.

[0091] In another case, a hydrogenated standard dimer acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, which contains 87% by weight of dimer and 10% by weight of trimer acid, is used. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, a more hydrophobic nature and a higher viscosity than those which can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and the performance qualities of these polymers.

[0092] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0093] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0094] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid has a content of trimer acid ranging from about 5% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0095] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a predominance (at least 60% by weight, more preferentially at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or better still at most 90% by weight, or even better still at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).Fatty C8-C30 monoacid

[0096] Fatty C8-C30monoacids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, and the like, but these contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful fatty monoacids may be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated and aromatic materials with an acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

[0097] Acids suitable for the invention comprise caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecylic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0098] The comparison of stearic acid and isostearic acid shows that the branching leads to an elevated melting point and results in a low viscosity at ambient temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in the handling of starting materials and also to make it possible for the esters manufactured with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isostearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the creation of the dimer acid described above.

[0099] Another way to obtain a liquid product consists in using unsaturated, linear and branched, fatty monoacids. These unsaturated acids can include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18: 2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), g-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomolinolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to a person skilled in the art, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms and that there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0100] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0101] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction of the following components:

[0102] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol;

[0103] (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and

[0104] iii) isostearic acid.

[0105] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and the subsequent induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

[0106] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of from 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of from 20% to 40%. Even more importantly, the degree of esterification by end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid from 4% to 40%.

[0107] It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 8% and 27%.

[0108] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 13% and 20%.

[0109] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 4% and 40%.

[0110] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 8% and 27%.

[0111] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0112] It is also even more preferable to have also most preferably a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0113] In one embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of fatty acid.

[0114] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0115] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0116] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of isostearic acid.

[0117] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0118] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0119] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of isostearic acid.

[0120] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0121] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0122] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0123] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0124] By adjusting the molar ratio of the termination of the fatty acids and by balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and of dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer acid-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, results in much higher viscosities.

[0125] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50 000 mPa.s and less than 5 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0126] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75 000 mPa.s and

[0127] < 2 500 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0128] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0129] In a most preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 1 000 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0130] The viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Rough or smooth twin flat plates 50 mm in diameter were used, covered with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention have Newtonian behaviour and thus have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers of the present description demonstrated a reduced viscosity with temperature. Thus, the viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. The values are reported in mPa.s.

[0131] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by weight-average molecular masses > 2500 Da and < 1 000 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0132] The GPC column used for these tests was constituted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous tetrahydrofuran (THF) phase was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 µl injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended to be monodispersed. The narrow range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared as a mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1 290 000 Da, 560 000 Da, 65 500 Da,28 500 Da, 10 100 Da, 1680 Da, 580 Da and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the weight- and number-average molecular mass is automatically calculated with standard GPC software.

[0133] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters described have a weight-average molecular weight > 4000 Da and < 250 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the polymers described have a weight-average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 150 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0134] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of weight-average molecular mass > 5000 Da and < 150 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards, and of viscosity at 25°C > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s.

[0135] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction of the following components:

[0136] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0137] (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and

[0138] (iii) isostearic acid; in which the polymer has a combination of weight-average molecular mass > 5000 Da and < 15 000 Da, measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards, and of viscosity of the pure polymer > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C; and in which the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0139] In practice, given that the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (and not theoretical) hydroxyl fractions and carboxylic acid fractions, as are determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structure of the polyglycerol-3 and of the C36dimer acid. The actual ranges may thus be slightly different from the values indicated above and may be calculated on the basis of these analytical values.

[0140] It is more practical to define the extent of the polymerization by the final acid number. The initial acid numbers, in the light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid number determined by the raw ingredient used.

[0141] For example, the initial total acid number (“AV”, which is commonly defined in mg of KOH / g of total reagent), is 135 AV. This comprises 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All the preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV which can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage of conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0142] Thus, the completion rate of the TACHreaction is defined by the following equation:

[0143] [Math 1]

[0144] TACH= 1 - final AV / initial AV

[0145] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to < 25 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0146] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to < 10 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0147] In a most preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to < 5 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0148] As the completion rate of the reaction is defined by the equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 80%.

[0149] In a preferred embodiment, the degree of completion of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 90%.

[0150] In a most preferred embodiment, the degree of completion of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 95%.

[0151] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, of a hydrogenated C36dimer acid and of isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of document US 2021 / 0259945.Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0152] According to a preferential embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0153] The term “oil” is understood to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105Pa).

[0154] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean any oil mainly comprising carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and at least one functional group chosen from ester, ether, hydroxyl and carboxylic groups. In this case, the hydrocarbon oil is polar. A hydrocarbon oil containing exclusively hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms is understood to be a non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0155] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapour pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably of less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry as a function of the vapour pressure (Standard OECD 104).

[0156] As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0157] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; triglycerides of branched C18-C36 fatty acids and of glycerol, such as that sold under the name DUB TGI 24® by Stéarineries Dubois (INCI name: C18-36 Acid Triglyceride);

[0158] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petroleum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalane;

[0159] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;

[0160] - synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15alkyl benzoate, triheptanoin, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, heptyl undecylenate, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl trimellitate;

[0161] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

[0162] - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

[0163] - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0164] - acetates;

[0165] - citrates;

[0166] - mixtures thereof.

[0167] According to a preferential embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) to the amount of polyester is less than 8.0, and more preferentially ranges from 0.5 to 5.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil will be chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0169] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises:

[0170] a) at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0171] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0172] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0173] (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids; said polyester being in the form of an oily solution in b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; and

[0174] c) at least one volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; and

[0175] d) at least one volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester chosen from linear or branched, saturated lactates containing from 6 to 9 carbon atoms; 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol; and mixtures thereof; and

[0176] the weight ratio of the total amount of non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) ranging from 70 / 30 to 5 / 95.

[0177] The oily solution of polyester a) of the invention can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) b) at approximately 80-100°C. The combined mixture is subsequently further cooled to 50-70°C to be discharged from the reactor and stored.

[0178] The oily solution of polyester a) of the invention preferably contains the polyester at a concentration of 10% to 99% by weight, more preferentially of 30% to 90% by weight, more particularly of 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0179] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains an oily solution comprising 40% by weight of triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids and 60% by weight of polyester of polyglycerol-3, of hydrogenated C36dimer acid and of isostearic acid, relative to the total weight of the oily solution, in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of document US 2021 / 0259945.

[0180] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising

[0181] a) a polyester obtained by reaction

[0182] (i) of a polyglycerol-3; and

[0183] (ii) of a hydrogenated C36acid dimer; and

[0184] (iii) of isostearic acid, components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids; and

[0185] b) a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, said mixture having, as INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0186] Such an oily solution is sold under the name SolAmaze Natural® by Nouryon, comprising 60% by weight, as active material, of polyester and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, relative to the total weight of the oily solution.Volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil

[0187] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises c) at least one volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0188] The term "non-polar hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing exclusively hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0189] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0190] The volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from branched C8-C16alkanes. Mention may in particular be made of C8-C16isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® trade names.

[0191] The volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0192] Mention may be made, by way of examples of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, of the alkanes described in the patent applications WO2007 / 068371 and WO2008 / 155059 of Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil.

[0193] Mention may be made, by way of examples of linear C6-C14alkanes suitable for the invention, of n-hexane (C6), n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and their mixtures.

[0194] Mention may in particular be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97® and Parafol 14-97®, and also of mixtures thereof.

[0195] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and of n-tetradecane is used. Use may in particular be made of the dodecane / tetradecane mixture sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight 1214®.

[0196] According to yet another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12alkanes with the INCI name: C9-12 Alkane, such as the product sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight Silk®.

[0197] According to yet another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13), such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by BASF.

[0198] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile non-polar oil(s) is (are) chosen from isododecane, the mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13).

[0199] The volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is (are) preferably present in the composition of the invention in contents ranging from 0.5% to 65% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 60% by weight, and even more preferentially from 15% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.Volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent

[0200] The composition in accordance with the present invention comprises d) at least one volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with the polyester a).

[0201] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile solvent” means any solvent for polyester that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0202] The term “polar hydrocarbon solvent” means a solvent for polyester a) mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ester and ether functions.

[0203] More particularly, the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) is (are) chosen from:

[0204] - linear or branched, saturated lactates containing from 6 to 9 carbon atoms,

[0205] - 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol (2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane),

[0206] - mixtures thereof.

[0207] The volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent, or the mixture of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvents, is present in the composition of the invention in contents ranging from 3% to 75% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 70% by weight, and even more preferentially from 15% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0208] As examples of lactates, mention may be made of isopropyl lactate (C6), propyl lactate (C6), butyl lactate (C7), isobutyl lactate (C7), amyl lactate (C8), isoamyl lactate (C8) and hexyl lactate (C9), and also mixtures thereof. Preferably, the lactates are chosen from isopropyl lactate (C6), butyl lactate (C7) and hexyl lactate (C9), and mixtures thereof. The lactates are, for example, sold under the name Purasolv by Corbion.

[0209] Finally, 1,2-isopropylideneglycerol is a solvent sold under several commercial references, such as Augeo® Crystal by Solvay, or Ecoetal® by Bioinspir.C2-C4 monoalcohols

[0210] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] If the composition comprises linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s), the content thereof would be less than or equal to 12% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] In accordance with an even more advantageous embodiment, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) would be less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] In addition, if the composition comprises linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s), the content thereof is such that the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) ranges from 70 / 30 to 5 / 95, it being understood that the linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) are considered with the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvents.Cosmetic additives

[0214] The compositions according to the invention may also include additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as active agents such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; colorants; UV-screening agents; fillers; waxes; pasty compounds; film-forming agents other than the polyester a); lipophilic thickeners; non-volatile oils such as those described above; fragrances; preserving agents; and mixtures thereof.

[0215] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.Colorants

[0216] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one colorant.

[0217] According to a particular form of the invention, the colorant may be chosen from pulverulent colorants, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.Pulverulent colorants

[0218] The pulverulent colorants may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.

[0219] The term "pigments" means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and / or organic.

[0220] According to one particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

[0221] The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0222] The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0223] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[0050] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0224] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicronic to multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C.,Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0225] D

[0050] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0226] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, said coating preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0228] According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.

[0229] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminium stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.

[0230] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearate. As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT)-treated pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and the black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by Kobo.

[0231] The pigments that may be used according to the invention may also be organic pigments.

[0232] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0233] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR2679771.

[0234] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP1184426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

[0235] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0236] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0237] Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0238] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0239] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent colorant of mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxides or iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0240] The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0241] Preferably, the pulverulent colorant(s) is (are) preferably present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 3% 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Liposoluble colorants

[0242] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liposoluble colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired colour effect and of the colour intensity afforded by the colorants under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

[0244] The additional colorants that are suitable for use in the invention may be liposoluble.

[0245] For the purposes of the invention, the term "liposoluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting colour.

[0246] As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0247] The liposoluble dye(s), if the composition comprises any, are preferably present in contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Fillers

[0248] The compositions in accordance with the invention may thus comprise at least one filler.

[0249] The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0250] The fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0251] Preferably, they may be chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.

[0252] The term “natural compound” means a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0253] The term “compound of natural origin” means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. Mention may be made, as nonlimiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatment bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, of those permitted by the controlling bodies, such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in recognized handbooks in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, Vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0254] The filler particles that can be used in the context of the invention preferably have an average size (d(50) by volume) of less than or equal to 40 µm, preferably of from 1 to 20 µm, more preferentially from 2 to 15 µm.

[0255] The sizes of the particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0256] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be lamellar, globular or spherical in form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0257] More particularly, the expression “lamellar shape” or “platelet shape” means particles of which the shape is characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height (also called thickness); the length and the width being greater than the thickness. More particularly, the ratio of the largest dimension of the lamella / platelet to the height (or thickness) of the lamella / platelet is greater than or equal to 5. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "largest dimension" of the lamellae or platelets is understood to mean the diameter of the sphere in which said lamella or platelet is inscribed. The dimensions of the particles are evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis.

[0258] For the purposes of the present invention, spherical particles are understood to mean particles having a mean circularity parameter of at least 0.80, preferably of at least 0.82, even more preferentially of at least 0.9. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disc having the same area as the particle to the perimeter of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

[0259] The "mean circularity" may be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the “mean circularity” may be an arithmetic mean circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of no less than 2000 silica particles, observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope. (SEM).

[0260] The "circularity" of each silica particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4πS / L2 in which C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the silica particle in the image. When the mean circularity approaches 1, the shape of each of the particles becomes more spherical.

[0261] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with amino acids or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.Mineral fillers

[0262] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, hollow silica microspheres, unmodified clays, for instance smectites, and preferably unmodified hectorite, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, kaolin and halloysite, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate optionally combined with lauroyl lysine, silica combined with lauroyl lysine, glass microcapsules, borosilicates or ceramic, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG series® sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0263] As regards natural micas, mention may be made, for example, of the products sold under the names Sericite® by SL Horie Kako; Mearlmica-SV® by Sun Chemicals, Sumicos Velvet by Sudarshan Chemical. As regards synthetic micas, the products sold under the names Synafil S 1050® by Exckart or NHS-S-100® by Myoshi Kasei (INCI name: Mica (and) Isostearyl Sebacate (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminium Hydroxide) may be suitable.

[0264] By way of unmodified clay, and more particularly unmodified hectorite, mention may particularly be made of the product sold by Elementis under the name Bentone EW® or Hydroclay 2000 LO®.

[0265] Among the suitable diatomaceous earths, mention may be made of the products of the ImerCare D® range from Imerys, for example ImerCare03D®, ImerCare06D, ImerCare 400D®, ImerCare Vistalskin®.

[0266] As examples of silica, preferably amorphous silica, preferably in hollow or non-hollow spherical form, use may be made of the following commercial products: Silica 35 Beads SB-150®, SB-300® or else SB 700®, preferentially SB 300® from Myoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere® range from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, notably Sunsphere H-51® or else Sunsphere 12L®, Sunsphere H-201®, H-52® and H-53®; Sunsil 130 8® from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500® from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl® and Satinier® ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier M13® and Satinier M16 silicas, MSS-500® silicas from Kobo, and more particularly MSS-500-20N®, Silica Shells® from Kobo and also the BA4 silicas from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals.

[0267] As examples of talc, mention may be made, for example, of the products J 68 BC® sold by US Cosmetics; ImerCare Pharma 00T® by Imerys; as examples of kaolin, mention may be made of the products ImerCare 04K®, Supreme® by Imerys; the product sold under the trade name Beraca Amazonian White Clay® by Beraca ingr. Naturais (Clariant); the product sold under the trade name FJK-16 ® by Fuji Fine Chemical.

[0268] With respect to boron nitride, mention may be made of the following commercial products: RonaFlair Boroneige SQ-6® sold by Merck, SP2® and SP8® sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, the products Softouch Boron Nitride CC6657®, CC6058®, CC6059® sold by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0269] As an example of perlite, in unexpanded or expanded form (i.e. : Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP), for example obtained according to patent US5002698), mention may be made of the perlite sold by Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Perlite-M SZ12®.

[0270] Among the glass particles, mention may be made of the product P2015SL® sold by Prizmalite (INCI name: Glass Beads). Mention may also be made of hollow Calcium Aluminium Borosilicate (INCI name) microspheres, such as the commercial product Luxsil Cosmetic Microspheres® by Potters, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (INCI name) particles, for example the product sold under the name: Luxsil AL Free 20 by Presperse.

[0271] As examples of magnesium oxide, mention may be made of the product Magnesium Oxide Extra Light Low Nickel® from Dr. Paul Lohmann; of calcium carbonate, mention may be made of the product Omyacare Extra 35-OG from Omya, Carbomat® sold by Sensient; of barium sulfate, mention may be made of the product LLD-5 BASO4® (PL) from Daito Kasei Kogyo (barium sulfate and lauroyl lysine); of silica coated with lauroyl lysine, such as the product Amilon® sold by Ikeda.Organic fillers

[0272] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of natural micronized waxes, for instance micronized carnauba wax, such as the product Microcare 350® sold by Micro Powders; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine such as, for example, the product Amihope LL®, sold by Ajninomoto; Hordeum vulgare seed flour, such as for example the product Amaze Nordic Barley® from Nouryon, PHA (poly(hydroxyalkanoate)), starch, quinoa extract (INCI name: Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract), for example sold by Trik under the name Nature PEP Quinoa®, cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0273] Among the starches, mention may be made of native starches such as corn starch (INCI name: Zea Mays Starch), for instance the product sold under the trade name Beauty By Roquette ST005® by Roquette; rice starch (INCI name: Oryza Sativa Starch) such as the commercial product Remytec F-I® by Creachem.

[0274] Mention may also be made of chemically modified starches such as modified starches with the following INCI names: Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate, such as the commercial product Dry Flo Plus® sold by Akzo Nobel; Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Octenylsuccinate such as the commercial product Structure Zea® sold by Akzo Nobel; Potato Starch Modified, such as the commercial product Structure Solanace® sold by Akzo Nobel; Sodium Carboxylmethyl Starch, such as the product Beauty by Roquette ST118® by Roquette; Oxidized Starch Acetate, such as the product GF-A390® sold by Foshan Gaofeng Starch Technology; composite powders of starch and sodium polyacrylate with the INCI name: Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, such as the commercial products Makimousse 25® and 12® sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo.

[0275] Among the particles of cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold by Daito under the brand name Cellulobeads® such as Cellulobeads USF®, Cellulobeads USF-X®, Cellulobeads D-5®, Cellulobeads D-10®, Cellulobeads D-30®, or else sold under the trade names Vivapur CS 9 FM, Vivapur CS 4 FM from JRS.

[0276] Preferably, if the composition comprises fillers, they may be chosen from mineral fillers, in particular silica, diatomaceous earth, and unmodified clay, from organic fillers such as in particular cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose, and also combinations thereof.

[0277] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Waxes

[0278] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

[0279] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C that may be up to 120°C.

[0280] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments, with the TA Universal Analysis software.

[0281] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0282] A sample of 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature ramp from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally is subjected to a second temperature ramp from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.

[0283] During the second temperature ramp, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0284] It is also possible to measure the enthalpy of fusion of the wax (∆Hf), corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to cause the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0285] The waxes may be silicone waxes and are preferably hydrocarbon waxes. They are also of plant, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0286] In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature of preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better still greater than or equal to 40°C.Non-polar waxes

[0287] A “non-polar hydrocarbon wax” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning a wax constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms, for example N, O, Si, P, etc.

[0288] As examples of non-polar waxes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and microwaxes, notably polyethylene waxes.Polar waxes

[0289] The polar waxes may notably be hydrocarbon or silicone waxes.

[0290] A “polar hydrocarbon wax” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning a wax having a chemical structure that is formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and that comprises at least one heteroatom more particularly chosen from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0291] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0292] A polar hydrocarbon wax is preferably a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes.

[0293] An “ester wax” is understood in accordance with the invention as meaning a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0294] An “alcohol wax” is understood in accordance with the invention as meaning a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0295] Use may notably be made, as ester wax, alone or as mixtures, of:

[0296] i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 6 to 50, notably from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, for instance O or N, and the melting point of which ranges more particularly from 30°C to 120°C. In particular, use may be made, as ester wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen. Use may also be made of stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof;

[0297] ii) bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate,

[0298] iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula

[0299] R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group which may optionally contain one or more unsaturations, Preferably, the C4-C30aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0300] iv) Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils in particular containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, such as for example hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or else the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those of the Phytowax Olive® range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57®, sold by Sophim. Such waxes are notably described in patent application FR2792190;

[0301] v) Waxes corresponding to the partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol. “Total esters” are understood as meaning that all the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, for instance

[0302] Thixcin R®, Thixcin E®, sold by Elementis Specialties.

[0303] vi) Mention may also be made of waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, or sunflower wax, in particular in refined form.

[0304] vii) Mention may also be made of natural or synthetic polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes, of animal or plant origin; the number of (C2-C4) oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, the Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated plant waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters).

[0305] According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. As alcohol waxes, mention may be made of mixtures of saturated linear C30-C50 alcohols, for instance the wax Performacol 550® Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0306] Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or plant origin, waxes of animal or plant origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils; alcohol waxes; and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, alone or as mixtures.

[0307] The wax content, if the composition comprises any, advantageously ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Pasty compounds

[0308] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound which is pasty at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0309] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty” refers to a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, notably having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization, and including at ambient temperature a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0310] In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound may be lower than ambient temperature. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at ambient temperature, may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This fraction that is liquid at ambient temperature preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85%, by weight.

[0311] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail previously for the waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, the measuring protocol is, however, as follows:

[0312] A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally is subjected to a second temperature ramp from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.

[0313] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0314] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

[0315] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0316] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance pass from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0317] The pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.

[0318] The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from:

[0319] - lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,

[0320] - petroleum jelly (also known as petrolatum),

[0321] - ethers of pentaerythritol and of C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol, for example the compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, for example, of the mixture sold under the name Lanolide by Vevy,

[0322] - liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols. Among the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly considered are copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with C6-C30long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and / or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will notably be made of the product having the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer sold, for example, under the brand name Elfacos ST9® by Akzo Nobel,

[0323] - esters resulting from the condensation of a preferably saturated, linear or branched, C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by Cremer Oleo. (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2),

[0324] - triglycerides of optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C18 fatty acids; for instance the glycerides of saturated C12-C18 fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

[0325] - esters of dimer diol, or of polyol, and of dimer diacid, for instance:

[0326] * dimer esters of dilinoleyl alcohol and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G® by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0327] * esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H® or Plandool S® by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0328] - butters of plant origin, for instance mango butter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203® by AarhusKarlshamn, shea butter, in particular that for which the INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that sold under the reference Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410® from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710® from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; and also orange wax, such as, for example, that which is sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen,

[0329] - totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm, and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive® by Soliance,

[0330] - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast DA-L® sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil,

[0331] - and mixtures thereof.

[0332] If the composition comprises at least one pasty compound, its / their content ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Lipophilic thickeners

[0333] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen more particularly from silicas, which may or may not have been hydrophobically treated, and from lipophilic clays, alone or as a mixture.Silicas

[0334] The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, as mineral thickener, a fumed silica, preferably a hydrophobic fumed silica, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.Fumed silica

[0335] Fumed silica which has been hydrophobically surface treated is suitable for use in the invention. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

[0336] The hydrophobic groups may be:

[0337] - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by Cabot.

[0338] - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by Cabot.Silica aerogels

[0339] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0340] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W.,Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0341] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better still from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0342] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0343] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described inThe Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

[0344] The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000 particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0345] According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0346] The aerogels are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

[0347] The term “hydrophobic silica” is understood to mean any silica of which the surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0348] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US 7 470 725.

[0349] Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

[0350] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate), by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0351] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201®, Aerogel TLD 203®, Enova Aerogel MT 1100® and Enova Aerogel MT 120.

[0352] Mention may also be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.Lipophilic clays

[0353] The term “lipophilic clay” refers to any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0354] A clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates and having a lamellar structure.

[0355] The clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0356] They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0357] They are preferably chosen from hectorites and bentonites.

[0358] For example, use may be made of a lipophilic clay chosen from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, notably modified with a C10 to C22 quaternary ammonium chloride, such as:

[0359] - a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250 Tixogel® VZ and Tixogel® VZ-V XR, by BYK Additives Inc; or the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by Bentec S.P.A;

[0360] - a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from Stéarinerie Dubois Fils, Miglyol Gel T® from Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, TIXOGEL® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 from BYK Additives Inc.;

[0361] - a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by Elementis Specialties;

[0362] - a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products sold under the name Bentone® Gel DOA V, Bentone® Gel EUG V, Bentone® Gel IHD V, Bentone® Gel ISD V, Bentone® Gel MIO V®, Bentone® Gel PTM V®, Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V or Bentone® VS-5 by Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS® or Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID® from Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS Gel DM1®, NS Gel PTIS® or NS MGel 1152® by Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0363] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and of fatty acid, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, fatty acid, or mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular C14-C18 fatty acid.

[0364] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition in concentrations preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Cosmetic applications

[0365] The composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the contour of the eyes, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the eyebrows.

[0366] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the skin such as foundations, face powders and eyeshadows.

[0367] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the lips, such as a lipstick or lip gloss.

[0368] In particular, the composition according to the invention is an eye contour makeup product such as an eyeliner, or a product for the eyelashes or the eyebrows such as a mascara.

[0369] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0370] It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the percentages by weight given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0371] It is understood that the examples which follow are present by way of illustration and that they do not in any way limit the scope of the protection conferred by the present patent application.Examples

[0372] Comparative test of compatibility of various volatile polar hydrocarbon solvents with the polyester a) of the invention

[0373] Compositions 1 to 5 comprising a volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent and the polyester a) sold under the reference Solamaze Natural were prepared according to the procedure below:Procedure

[0374] 2 g of Solamaze Natural®, then 18 g of volatile polar solvent, were introduced into a beaker equipped with a magnetic stirrer. The mixture was stirred with magnetic stirring for 2 minutes.

[0375] The volatile polar solvent is compatible with Solamaze Natural if a clear and homogeneous mixture is obtained visually in the form of a single phase, after standing for 10 minutes after production and after 1 month of stability at 4°C.

[0376] ExampleVolatile polar solventVapour pressure at 20°C (Pa)Compatibility with Solamaze Natural (10% by mass)Ex. 1 (Comparative)Ethanol (Absolute) (C2)5866Heterogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 2 (Comparative)Isopropanol (C3)4400Heterogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 3 (Comparative)Ethyl lactate (C5)160Heterogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 4 (Invention)Butyl lactate (C7)53Homogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 5 (Invention)Isopropylidene glycerol (C6)32Homogeneous liquid mixtureComparative tests of compatibility of the volatile polar solvent butyl lactate with the polyester according to the solvent / polyester weight ratio

[0377] Compositions 6 to 11 comprising a mixture of isododecane, volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, and volatile polar solvent butyl lactate, in various weight ratios were prepared according to the same procedure indicated above.

[0378] ExampleIsododecane / butyl lactate weight ratioCompatibility with Solamaze Natural (10% by mass)Ex. 6 (Comparative)90 / 10 = 9Heterogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 7 (Comparative)80 / 20 = 4Heterogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 8 (Invention)70 / 30 = 2.33Homogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 9 (Comparative)50 / 50 = 1Homogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 10 (Invention)30 / 70 = 0.43Homogeneous liquid mixtureEx. 11 (Invention)10 / 90 = 0.11Homogeneous liquid mixtureExample 12 (outside the invention) and Example 13 (invention) of foundation

[0379] The following two foundation compositions were prepared.

[0380] Ingredients (INCI name)Example 12(Comparative)Example 13(Invention)ISODODECANE36.7836.78UNDECANE (and) TRIDECANE(CETIOL ULTIMATE-® BASF)1515CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE0.50.5DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%)(SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON)1010DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE(BENTONE 38 VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE® – ELEMENTIS)33SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE1.221.22TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE8.718.71IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE0.170.17IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE0.520.52IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE1.61.6ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL22.5-BUTYL LACTATE-22.5TOTAL (% by Mass)100100TOTAL Volatile alkanes51.7851.78TOTAL Volatile polar solvent22.522.5TOTAL Alkanes + Volatile polar solvent (%)74.2874.28Volatile alkanes / Volatile polar solvent ratio69.7 / 30.369.7 / 30.3Procedure

[0381] The volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils: mixture of undecane / tridecane and isododecane, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil caprylic / capric triglyceride, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (60%) (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride (40%) were mixed in a beaker with a rotor-stator for 5 minutes at 500 rpm.

[0382] The hectorite was sprinkled in under the rotor-stator at 1500 revolutions / min and the mixture was then left stirring for 15 minutes.

[0383] The mixture of pigments and of synthetic mica was sprinkled in while stirring with the rotor-stator at 2000 rpm and then the mixture was left stirring for 15 minutes.

[0384] The temperature of the bulk material was checked: If the temperature increased, the beaker was placed in a cold water bath.

[0385] Lastly, the volatile polar solvent (ethanol or butyl lactate) was added at ambient temperature (less than 30°C) with rotor-stator stirring at 1000 rpm. The mixture was again left stirring for 5 min and was then packaged.Evaluation of the compositions

[0386] In vitroevaluation of the wear property and of non-transfer

[0387] The wear property with respect to rubbing actions and the non-transfer of Example 13 of the invention and those of Comparative Example 12 were compared according to the following protocol:

[0388] A 25 µm film was produced with a film drawer on an Erichsen contrast chart. This film was dried in an oven at 37°C for 24 h. A 2 kg weight fitted with a Wypall® fabric was placed statically on the chart for 20 seconds, then removed.

[0389] Observation of the colouring of the Wypall® fabric gave information on the transfer and observation of the degradation of the deposit on the contrast chart gave information on the wear property of the foundations.

[0390] The colouring of the fabric and the degradation of the deposit were graded on a scale of 0 to 5.

[0391] 0 corresponds to "no trace" and no degradation of the deposit and 5 corresponds to strong colouring of the Wypall® fabric and to high degradation of the deposit.

[0392] The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0393] ObservationsExample 12 (comparative)Example 13(Invention)Appearance of the compositionHomogeneous compositionHomogeneous compositionDegradation of the deposit00Colouring of the fabric00

[0394] According to the observations and notations, Example 13 according to the invention is homogeneous and has wear performance and non-transfer qualities identical to those of Comparative Example 12, while being sensorially more comfortable (feeling of softness). Ethanol can therefore be replaced by butyl lactate while retaining the same wear performance and non-transfer properties.

Claims

Anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:a) at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):(i) at least one polyglycerol-3;(ii) at least one dimer acid; and(iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty monoacid;b) optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; andc) at least one volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; andd) at least one volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with said polyester chosen from linear or branched, saturated lactates containing from 6 to 9 carbon atoms; 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol; and mixtures thereof;the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) ranging from 70 / 30 to 5 / 95.Composition according to Claim 1, in which the polyester a) is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the polyester a) is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reactants into a reaction vessel and subsequently the induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of the isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, said polyglycerols corresponding to the formula (I):in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is a mean from 2 to 10.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and is composed of at least 40% by weight, or of at least 45% by weight, or of at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and of triglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 20% by weight, or of at least 25% by weight, of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyester a) is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:(i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;(ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; andiii) isostearic acid.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyester a) is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, of hydrogenated C36dimer acid and of isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oily solution comprising:a) at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):(i) at least one polyglycerol-3;(ii) at least one dimer acid; and(iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, of 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and of 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; andb) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.Composition according to Claim 10, in which the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) to the amount of polyester is less than 8.0, and more preferentially ranges from 0.5 to 5.Composition according to Claim 10, in which the oily solution of polyester contains said polyester at a concentration of 10% to 99% by weight, more preferentially of 30% to 90% by weight, more particularly of 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily solution.Composition according to Claim 12, in which the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids and 60% by weight of polyester of polyglycerol-3, of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and of isostearic acid, relative to the total weight of the oily solution, in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.Composition according to any one of Claims 10 to 13, comprising an oily solution comprisinga) a polyester obtained by reaction(i) of a polyglycerol-3; and(ii) of a hydrogenated C36 acid dimer; and(iii) of isostearic acid, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, of 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and of 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; andb) a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, said mixture having, as INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is (are) chosen from isododecane, the mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13).Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile non-polar oil(s) is (are) in contents ranging from 0.5% to 65% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 60% by weight, and even more preferentially from 15% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) is (are) chosen from:- linear or branched, saturated lactates containing from 6 to 9 carbon atoms, chosen from isopropyl lactate, propyl lactate, butyl lactate, isobutyl lactate, amyl lactate, isoamyl lactate and hexyl lactate and also mixtures thereof,- 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol (2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane),- mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent or the mixture of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvents is in contents ranging from 3% to 75% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 70% by weight, and even more preferentially from 15% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, optionally comprising at least one linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol, more particularly chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and also mixtures thereof.Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is less than or equal to 12% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to either one of Claims 19 and 20, in which the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is such that the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) ranges from 70 / 30 to 5 / 95, it being understood that the linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) are considered with the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvents.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additive chosen from active agents such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; colorants; UV-screening agents; fillers; waxes; pasty compounds; film-forming agents other than the polyester a); non-volatile oils; lipophilic thickeners; fragrances; preserving agents; and mixtures thereof.Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising at least one colorant chosen from pulverulent colorants, preferably chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof; and more particularly chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly coated iron oxides, coated titanium dioxides, and coated mixtures thereof.Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the pulverulent colorant(s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the contour of the eyes, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 24.

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