Cosmetic composition for liquid lipstick and respective process for obtaining same

Abstract

The present patent of invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics and / or similar preparations characterised by their composition, and more specifically presents a cosmetic composition for long-lasting, non-sticky matte liquid lipstick and the respective process for obtaining same. The composition is essentially composed of specific proportions of isododecane and hexyl / succinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, inter alia.

Description

"COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF LIQUID LIPSTICK AND ITS MANUFACTURING PROCESS"

[0001] This invention patent belongs to the technical field of cosmetics and / or similar preparations, characterized by its composition. More specifically, it presents a long-lasting matte liquid lipstick cosmetic composition without tack (stickiness) and its respective production process, whose composition is essentially composed of specific proportions of Isododecane and Hexyl / Succinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, among others. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] To achieve a lipstick that lasts on the lips for many hours, it needs to resist external aggressors such as the ingestion of liquids, food, and other factors like friction, sweat, sebum, among others. This attribute is obtained through the use of film-forming raw materials.

[0003] In the state of the art, there are several long-lasting liquid lipsticks, some of which have a sticky characteristic (called tack) until they dry.

[0004] Among the patent documents, for example, WO23041343 describes a composition for the care and / or manufacture of keratinous materials, particularly for skin, comprising at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functions; and at least one copolymer based on silicone resin and dimethiconol-type silicone. Specifically, in one embodiment, the composition comprises a silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functions, this being the Hexyl / Succinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. TECHNICAL PROBLEM

[0005] The long-lasting properties of lipsticks on the lips, achieved through the use of film-forming raw materials, often lead to adverse conditions during use, such as stickiness, cracking, and discomfort.

[0006] Among the long-lasting liquid lipsticks known in the state of the art, those with tackiness cause an unpleasant "sticky" sensation. On the other hand, those without tack have less durability, even after drying.

[0007] Another difficult attribute to obtain in a comfortable lipstick is resistance to oily components, which are the main culprits in reducing lipstick durability when we eat, since the film-forming agents that provide oil resistance usually give the undesirable effect of stickiness.

[0008] The raw material commonly used in formulations containing Hexyl / Succinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, among other ingredients, as presented in patent document WO23041343, has high resistance to oil and water, as well as a comfortable feel, which is its major advantage over other resins on the market. However, it is a difficult ingredient to work with, due to the difficulty in its incorporation and also because, when used in excess, it can cause crumbling on the lips.

[0009] Thus, it can be stated that the state of the art does not foresee a single-product solution that provides characteristics of greater durability, less cracking, and less stickiness, achieved through specific proportions of Isododecane and Hexyl / Succinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, among other components, that guarantee a synergistic effect between specific formulation proportions to obtain the ideal balance between drying, comfort, and resistance during use, in a single product. TECHNICAL SOLUTION

[0010] The main objective of this invention is to offer an unusual composition of long-lasting liquid lipstick without any sticky characteristic.

[0011] According to the present invention, the proposed composition achieves an unusual effect of providing more than 24 hours of wear without retouching to the liquid lipstick and without stickiness on the lips, even during drying.

[0012] The unusual technical effect provided by the invention consists of a precise and detailed combination of ingredients to obtain a formulation that does not result in unwanted crumbling or stickiness, and that It offers extremely high durability and resistance to external factors.

[0013] Film formers are known for providing strength benefits to formulations, but a simple mixture of ingredients with this function would not be enough to overcome the technical barrier of delivering a formulation that has high durability, comfort, and low stickiness. The solution found involves a combination of polymers, in specific concentrations, so that the synergy between them can deliver the best possible result. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0014] The description that follows is not limited to the drawings or components mentioned, and refers to the illustrations referenced below.

[0015] Figure IA shows an image of the lipstick, according to the present invention, after 6 hours of use following meals.

[0016] Figure 1B shows an image of the lipstick, according to the present invention, after 4 hours of use, after meals and physical exercise.

[0017] Figure 1C shows an image of the lipstick, according to the present invention, after 24 hours of use, after meals, physical exercise, and 2 showers. No transfer of the lipstick to the pillow during sleep.

[0018] Figure 2A shows an example of selecting the total lip area according to the present invention.

[0019] Figure 2B shows an example of selecting the area occupied by the sample according to the present invention.

[0020] Figure 3 presents a sequence of mouths present in the structuring research that indicated what is acceptable in relation to the durability of a lipstick according to the present invention.

[0021] Figures 4A, 4B, and 4C present images and graphs related to the test results quantifying the resistance / integrity of the film corresponding to the formulation of the present invention.

[0022] Figures 5A and 5B show images of the flexibility test of the film corresponding to the formulation of the present invention.

[0023] Figures 6A and 6B show an image and graph of the stickiness test of film corresponding to the formulation of the present invention.

[0024] Figures 7A, 7B, and 7C show images and a graph of the hydrophobicity test of the film corresponding to the formulation of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0025] The present invention relates to a long-lasting matte liquid lipstick composition without tack and the respective process for obtaining it.

[0026] To solve the crumbling problem, several tests were carried out until the ideal formulation was reached, combining durability, comfort, high pigmentation, and resistance to water and oily components.

[0027] In order to verify the durability of the lipstick described in the present invention, experimental procedures were carried out using the average of the histograms obtained, determined by image analysis through area calculation.

[0028] The evaluation of the product of the present invention was carried out by selecting 33 research participants who were then directed to cleanse their lips, following the application sequence: two-phase makeup remover, moistened wipe, rinsing with running water, and drying with soft paper.

[0029] After 30 minutes, the participants were directed to have their lips photographed before the application of the formulas. After capturing the initial images, a researcher / makeup artist applied the products under analysis to the participants' lips, in a randomized, standardized, and uniform manner. Immediately afterward, the participants were again directed to have another image captured (T ap (after product application)

[0030] It was explained that all daily habits should be maintained (eating, drinking fluids, exercising, brushing teeth, etc.) until returning to the laboratory the following day for a new photo capture (T 24 hours). The images were stored and then underwent the area calculation analysis described below.

[0031] To evaluate the durability of the lipsticks, the test was conducted with 33 volunteers, and the pixel ratio between the total lip area of ​​each volunteer and the area covered by the lipsticks was analyzed using software such as ImageJ. 24 hours of application. Figures 2A and 2B illustrate the selections mentioned.

[0032] The area was normalized relative to the initial time, that is, the total area of ​​the lips was considered 100% and the area occupied by the sample after 24 hours was calculated using the equation: (Area T 24 hours / Total area of ​​the lips) * 100.

[0033] For the durability evaluation of each lipstick, a positive result was considered, meaning that the sample was still lasting in the area of ​​interest, if the average value of the sample size was > (greater than or equal to) 54.23%.

[0034] In turn, the cutoff parameter was obtained from an online structured survey, in which 2610 makeup consumers indicated what they considered acceptable for the durability of a lipstick after several hours of application. This indication was made through a choice between nine images that contained various mouths with the same lipstick applied, but with different areas covered (as seen in figure 3).

[0035] The selected image of a mouth with lipstick applied (image 4 in figure 3) was identified as ideal for durability, based on the area occupied by the sample, and the resulting value was 54.23%.

[0036] Thus, for the purposes of the result, the liquid lipstick sample according to the present invention (corresponding to the sample data referenced as “2023.442.003.41” and “2023.442.003.48”) was considered durable, as it presented a result equal to or greater than the cutoff score of 54.23%, the results of which are presented in Tables 01 and 02.

[0037] According to the data presented in Tables 1 and 2, the samples of liquid lipstick according to the present invention met the performance criteria of the study, achieving positive performance for the desired durability attributes. A superior numerical performance is noted in the liquid lipstick sample. referenced as “2023.442.003.41”, however, for both samples that comprise the compositional characteristics of the present invention, the attributes of a liquid lipstick with 24-hour durability are validated.

[0038] Thus, the present invention utilizes a combination of ingredients in specific proportions, acting synergistically with a structure to obtain an unusual, innovative and complete result not existing in the state of the art.

[0039] In order to demonstrate the unusual results achieved by the present invention, the liquid lipstick formulation as proposed herein was also evaluated through other tests and performance data for: - Film resistance to abrasion (dry, oil and water); - flexibility of the film; - stickiness and drying of the film over time; and - hydrophobicity of the film.

[0040] Regarding the film's resistance to abrasion, the objective of this test is to evaluate the durability and abrasion resistance of film-forming technologies, using a colorimeter to obtain color measurements after abrasion cycles. The color variation is used to quantify the film's resistance / integrity, where the lower the AE values, the more resistant the film.

[0041] At the beginning of this test, the film is applied according to the formulation of the present invention, with the aid of an extender (25 µm), onto a Vitro Skin membrane. The film is then left to dry overnight at a temperature of approximately 25°C. Afterwards, the Vitro Skin membrane is cut to the size of the sample holder (e.g., a circle 20 to 22 mm in diameter), and then the first color measurement (initial color of the film) is performed.

[0042] After the initial colorimetry measurements, the films are exposed to abrasion cycles in a washability apparatus. Then, a sample holder with the film is placed in contact with a felt strip, and an appropriate number of cycles are performed, for example, initial, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, 25 and 50, where between each cycle interval, the color of the film is measured and the felt used is changed.

[0043] For testing with olive oil and water, a small amount of... can be added. Add olive oil to the test to simulate resistance under other conditions. In this case, add, for example, using an automatic pipette, 30 pL in the case of olive oil and 50 pL in the case of water, to the film before the first, sixth, tenth, and twenty-fifth abrasion cycles, where the test can be performed in duplicate per sample.

[0044] Figure 4A shows images of felt strips subjected to contact with samples of the film according to the formulation of the present invention, in a number of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, 25 and 50 cycles.

[0045] Figure 4B highlights the felts subjected to contact with samples of the film according to the formulation of the present invention, after 50 abrasion cycles.

[0046] In turn, Figure 4C presents the results of the tests quantifying the resistance / integrity of the film corresponding to the formulation of the present invention, according to abrasion cycles and AE values.

[0047] Regarding the flexibility of the film, the objective of this test is to evaluate the flexibility of cosmetic formulations. The test is performed manually by stretching a film of the product, according to the formulation of the present invention, onto a latex substrate, observing whether there are cracks in the film due to its stretching. In this sense, a product is considered flexible when it can be stretched 200% of its original length without showing significant cracks.

[0048] At the beginning of this test, a latex substrate is fixed to an aluminum support, and the film is applied to the latex substrate using an extender (e.g., 50 µm). The film is then left to dry overnight at a temperature of approximately 25°C. After the film has dried, the substrate is placed on a flat surface, and an image of its initial appearance is recorded.

[0049] Following this test, and in order to control the percentage of latex elongation, a measuring device, such as a ruler, is positioned on the side of the latex. One side of the latex is fixed in place, and the other side is stretched until it reaches twice the length of the film, as shown in Figure 5A. The image of the film was recorded after the latex was stretched so that any cracking could be observed.

[0050] As can be seen in the images in Figure 5B, which show images of the film applied to the latex substrate, before (left image) and after (right image) being subjected to film stretching, surprisingly and satisfactorily, after stretching, the film shows a slight presence of cracking (highlighted) only in the upper right corner of the latex.

[0051] Regarding the evaluation of the stickiness and drying of cosmetic formulas over time, the film stickiness test is used to measure its adhesion between two circular plates that are repeatedly pressed and separated in a test apparatus, for example, as shown in Figure 6A, having a test area diameter of 35.7 mm.

[0052] At the beginning of this test, the liquid lipstick formulation according to the present invention is applied to the lower plate of the equipment (approximately 0.10 g), comprising, for example, the following analysis parameters: - 15 mm separation between the plates; - 500 mm / min speed; and - 400 cycles.

[0053] As can be seen in the graph in Figure 6B, which represents the result of the film tackiness test, surprisingly the liquid lipstick formulation according to the present invention showed low tackiness and a fast drying time during the 300 cycles.

[0054] Regarding the evaluation of the hydrophobicity of the films formed after applying cosmetic formulations of the present invention to Vitro Skin membranes, the greater the contact angle, the more hydrophobic the film. Figure 7A shows the parameters for evaluating hydrophobicity, where A represents a contact angle, D represents a drop of liquid, P represents a film, and T represents a tangent to the film surface.

[0055] At the beginning of this test, the film is applied, with the help of the extender (e.g., 25 pm), to the Vitro Skin membrane, and then the film is allowed to dry for one day. to another at a temperature of approximately 25°C.

[0056] Finally, in a Goniometer apparatus, for example, a drop (approximately 20 pL) is placed on the membrane, manipulating a computer program to obtain the contact angle between the drop and the surface with the film, performing an initial measurement and after two minutes, the result of the evaluation of the hydrophobicity of the liquid lipstick according to the present invention are presented in the graph of figure 7B and images of figure 7C.

[0057] In an essential embodiment of the present invention, the formulation ingredients of the liquid lipstick cosmetic composition, represented by their respective international nomenclatures (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients - INCI), ranges of use and functions, are presented in Table 03.

[0058] In one embodiment of the present invention, other formulation ingredients may be added to the cosmetic composition of liquid lipstick, as presented in Table 4.

[0059] The present invention also includes a process for obtaining a liquid lipstick cosmetic composition comprising specific preparation steps. The process described below comprises the “steps” and their respective ingredients by mass indicated in Tables 03 and 04 above.

[0060] More specifically, the process of obtaining the liquid lipstick composition initially involves adding the ingredients Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Caprylyl Methicone, Paraffin, Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer, and Tocopheryl Acetate to a reactor. After the addition, the mixture is heated to 90°C to 95°C to melt the ingredients and homogenized for 10 to 15 minutes.

[0061] Next, weigh the isododecane and trimethylsiloxysilicate, and homogenize until completely dissolved. Then, reduce the reactor temperature to 50°C to 60°C, and add the solution to the reactor. After the addition, maintain stirring for 10 to 15 minutes for complete homogenization of the ingredients.

[0062] In a subsequent step, add the pigments and stir for at least 15 minutes until the pigments are completely dispersed in the solution, and check that the pigments are well dispersed.

[0063] Perform the step of adding Hectorite Disteardimonium, Propylene Carbonate, Hexyl / Succinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, and Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

[0064] Next, continue stirring for up to 20 minutes to ensure the ingredients are completely homogeneous, and after this period, check if the formulation is uniform.

[0065] Finally, add Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica Silicate, and Silicon Dioxide, close the reactor, and maintain homogenization for up to 10 minutes. At the end of the process, check if the ingredients are well incorporated and if the formulation is uniform.

Claims

CLAIMS 1.) “LIQUID LIPSTICK COSMETIC COMPOSITION”, characterized by comprising, in % by mass: 31.00% to 36.00%, preferably 33.10%, of solvent, preferably isododecane; 17.00% to 21.50%, preferably 20.30%, of emollients, of which the following are preferably: 16.00% to 20.00%, preferably 18.9875%, of Dimethicone; and 1.00% to 1.50%, preferably 1.20%, of Dimethiconol; 9.00% to 14.00%, preferably 12.00%, of Pigment; 10.00% to 17.00%, preferably 13%, of conditions, of which the following are preferably: 6.00% to 10.00%, preferably 8.00%, of Caprylyl Methicone; and 4.00% to 7.00%, preferably 5.00%, of Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer; 9.90% to 12.20%, preferably 10.95%, of film makers, of which the following should preferably be: 6.90% to 7.20%, preferably 7.05%, of Trimethylsiloxysilicate; and 3.00% to 5.00%, preferably 3.90%, of Hexyl / Succinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; 2.60% to 4.00%, preferably 3.49%, of viscosity regulators, of which the following are preferably: 1.60% to 2.20%, preferably 1.94%, of D-dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; and 1.00% to 1.80%, preferably 1.55%, of Dimethicone Crosspolymer; 1.00% to 1.50%, preferably 1.20%, of stabilizer, preferably silica silylate; and 0.03% to 0.09%, preferably 0.06%, of absorbent, preferably silicon dioxide. 2.) “LIQUID LIPSTICK COSMETIC COMPOSITION”, according to claim 1, further characterized by comprising, in % by mass: 6.10% to 4.80%, preferably 5.25%, of viscosity regulators, of which the following are preferably: 3.80% to 4.50%, preferably 4.00%, of paraffin; and 1.00% to 1.60%, preferably 1.25%, of Hectorite Disteardimonium; 0.40% to 0.80%, preferably 0.55%, of solvent, preferably propylene carbonate; and 0.06% to 0.16%, preferably 0.10%, of antioxidant, preferably Tocopheryl Acetate. 3.) “PROCESS FOR OBTAINING THE COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF LIQUID LIPSTICK”, as defined in claim 2, characterized by comprising the following steps: - Add the ingredients Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Caprylyl Methicone, Paraffin, Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer, and Tocopheryl Acetate to a reactor, and after adding them, maintain the temperature at 90°C to 95°C to melt the ingredients and homogenize for 10 to 15 minutes; - Homogenize a solution of isododecane and trimethylsiloxysilicate until completely dissolved; - Reduce the reactor temperature to 50°C to 60°C, add the solution to the reactor and, after adding it, maintain stirring for 10 to 15 minutes to ensure complete homogenization of the ingredients; - Add the pigments to the reactor and stir for at least 15 minutes until the pigments are completely dispersed, and check that the pigments are well dispersed; - Add Hectorite Disteardimonium, Propylene Carbonate, Hexyl / Succinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, and Dimethicone Crosspolymer to the reactor, maintain agitation for up to 20 minutes for complete homogenization of the ingredients, and after this period, check if the formulation is uniform; and - Add to the reactor Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica Silicate and Silicon Dioxide, and maintain homogenization for up to 10 minutes, and at the end of the In the process, check if the ingredients are well incorporated and if the formulation is uniform.

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