Biphasic product comprising sophorolipids and salicylic acid

Abstract

A biphasic product containing salicylic acid.

Description

[0001] Two-phase product with salicylic acid

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic two-phase product comprising salicylic acid and sophorolipids.

[0003] Cosmetic products generally serve not only to make one look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to increased self-esteem and well-being. Consumers often apply decorative cosmetics to improve their appearance. However, these products are removed from the skin in the evening before going to bed. Cosmetic cleansing products are used for this removal; these products offer particularly effective cleansing without causing skin irritation.

[0004] A typical category of these cleaning products are cosmetic two-phase products, which are mixed by shaking before use. After use, the products separate within a short time. The presence of two separate phases is indicated to the consumer, for example, by the different colors of the phases. They consist of a specific proportion of an oil phase and a water phase.

[0005] In the area of ​​cleansing products, it has been shown that two-phase systems offer better cleaning performance, especially with waterproof makeup. Here, the effective cleansing action of oils is combined with water, which minimizes the oily residue.

[0006] To form a two-phase product, a phase containing water and a phase containing oil are required. At rest, these two phases are clearly distinguishable. Due to their different densities, these two phases do not mix spontaneously and thus form a horizontally separated two-phase system. By introducing energy, for example by shaking, the phases can be briefly mixed. However, due to the density difference and the high interfacial tension (IFS) of oil compared to water, a very rapid separation back into the two phases occurs.

[0007] In addition to their cleansing effect, it is also desirable that these products offer further benefits for the skin. One possibility is to add certain hydroxy acids to the formulations.

[0008] Hydroxy acids (or hydroxy acids for short) are naturally occurring carboxylic acids. The following hydroxy acids are of particular importance for human skin. One such relevant hydroxy acid is salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is a fat-soluble acid and not only acts on the skin's surface but also penetrates deeper into the skin. Products such as creams containing salicylic acid are therefore also used in the treatment of skin conditions like acne and psoriasis. The acid opens the pores, reduces impurities, and prevents the formation of new pimples. Furthermore, beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Products containing BHAs are therefore particularly suitable for the care of oily and blemish-prone skin.

[0009] If a specialist attempts to incorporate these into a product which, in its resting position, has two separately separated phases, this can lead to significant product disadvantages.

[0010] One disadvantage of products containing salicylic acid is that the water phase and / or the oil phase of the two-phase system remains cloudy for an extended period after mixing. This means that a clearly separated phase is not present. Furthermore, it is often impossible to produce transparent water and / or oil phases in the first place.

[0011] The object of the present invention was to eliminate this disadvantage and to provide two-phase systems that, in their resting state, form clear and transparent aqueous phases separately from an oil phase particularly quickly, wherein the formulations are to contain the aforementioned acid component. Furthermore, the oil phases should also exhibit a transparent appearance in their resting state, wherein the formulations are to contain the aforementioned acid component.

[0012] Previously, benzethonium chloride was often used in such formulations to enable rapid phase clarification. However, this ingredient is increasingly criticized, leading consumers to desire formulations without benzethonium chloride. Consequently, there was a need to provide alternative products with the same technical effect.

[0013] EP 2732805 A1 discloses two-phase preparations which contain alkyl glucosides, in particular caprylyl / capryl glucoside, as surfactant.

[0014] The state of the art is known in DE 69531870 T2, which discloses the use of sophorolipids in cosmetic products.

[0015] Sophorolipids are special glycolipids. They can be produced by fermentation of yeasts of the Candida and Torulopsis types, as well as Torulopsis magnoliae, Candida bombicola, Candida apicola, or Candida bogoriensis. The essential glucid of extracellular sophorolipids is sophorose (2'-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-β-D-glucopyranose). This sugar can be acetylated at the 6' and 6' positions and is linked to a fatty acid hydroxyl group at the ω or ω-1 position. The lipid fraction of sophorolipids is composed of several hydroxy fatty acids.

[0016] Patent application EP0209783A describes sophorolipids and their use as an anti-dandruff agent and bacteriostatic agent.

[0017] The present invention provided a surprising solution to the problem.

[0018] The invention is a two-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a horizontally separated two-phase system comprising an oil and an aqueous phase, characterized in that the preparation comprises a) sophorolipid and b) salicylic acid.

[0019] Surprisingly, the addition of at least one sophorolipid leads to significantly more transparent aqueous phases in the presence of salicylic acid. This is especially true after brief mixing of both phases by shaking and subsequent separation of the phases at rest.

[0020] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under "normal conditions". "Normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa, and 50% relative humidity.

[0021] The term "skin" refers exclusively to human skin.

[0022] Where weight percentages (wt%) are given below without reference to a specific composition or mixture, these percentages always refer to the total weight of the preparation. Where ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed below, these ratios refer to the weight ratios of the components / substances / groups of substances mentioned.

[0023] Where weight percentage ranges for the components of the preparation are specified below, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values ​​in increments of 0.1 wt.% within these weight percentage ranges. Within the scope of the present disclosure, the terms "according to the invention," "advantageous according to the invention," "advantageous in the sense of the present invention," etc., always refer to the preparation according to the invention, as well as the use according to the invention and the method.

[0024] For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the substance in question does not exceed 0.1% by weight and, in particular, is 0% by weight of the total weight of the preparation. Thus, accidental introduction through impurities should not lead to exclusion from the scope of protection.

[0025] Emulsifiers are defined as all substances listed under the term “emulsifying agent” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are defined as all substances listed under the term “surfactant” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0026] Any viscosity values ​​given in this disclosure refer to measurements taken at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-0001) using the Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, meaning that a measuring element rotates within the substance being measured. The force required to rotate the measuring element within the sample at a predetermined speed is measured. The viscosity is then calculated from this torque, the rotational speed of the measuring element, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system. The measuring element used is No. 1 (article no. 200 0191), suitable for a viscosity range up to 10,000 mPa·s and a rotational speed of 62.5 min⁻¹.

[0027] When this disclosure refers to an average, that average always refers to arithmetic means.

[0028] The term "transparent" here refers to a transmission measurement at 25°C at 880 nm. The higher the transmission, the more transparent the system.

[0029] Any information regarding the molecular weight of polymers given in this disclosure refers to a measurement by means of light scattering.

[0030] Advantageously, the at least one sophorolipid is used in a proportion of 0.0001 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.0005 to 1 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 0.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.03 to 0.2 wt.%, based on the total mass of the aqueous phase of the preparation. Furthermore, it is advantageous if salicylic acid is included in a proportion of 0.0001 to 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.001 to 0.2 wt.%, preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.05 wt.%, where these values ​​refer to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the preparation.

[0031] It is further advantageous if the weight ratio of salicylic acid to sophorolipid is from 12:1 to 1:50, preferably from 10:1 to 1:5, advantageously from 7:1 to 1:1 and particularly preferably from 6:1 to 2:1.

[0032] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oil phase contained in the preparation is from 98:2 to 50:50, preferably from 96:4 to 75:30, preferably from 94:6 to 85:15 and particularly preferably from 93:7 to 90:10.

[0033] The oil phase of the preparation according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more oils selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, undecane, C15-19 alkanes, and coco-caprylate / caprate.

[0034] It is advantageous if isododecane is included. If the oil phase comprises isododecane, it is advantageous if the total isododecane content is 50.0 to 95 wt.%, preferably 60.0 to 93.0 wt.%, more preferably 75.0 to 90.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 80.0 to 88.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

[0035] It is advantageous if isohexadecane is included. If the oil phase comprises isohexadecane, it is advantageous if the total proportion of isohexadecane is 2.0 to 60 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 45 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 35 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 25 wt.%, and particularly preferably 6.0 to 20 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

[0036] It is advantageous if isopropyl palmitate is included. If the oil phase comprises isopropyl palmitate, it is advantageous if the total proportion of isopropyl palmitate is 0.1 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 25 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 8.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 6.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

[0037] It is advantageous if undecane is included. If the oil phase comprises undecane, it is advantageous if the total undecane content is 0.1 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 25 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 8.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 6.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation. It is advantageous if C15-19 alkanes are included. If the oil phase comprises C15-19 alkanes, it is advantageous if the total proportion of C15-19 alkanes is from 0.1 to 40 wt.%, preferably from 1.5 to 30.5 wt.%, preferably from 5.0 to 25.0 wt.%, preferably from 8.0 to 20.0 wt.% and particularly preferably from 12.0 to 16.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

[0038] It is advantageous if coco-caprylate / caprate is included. If the oil phase comprises coco-caprylate / caprate, it is advantageous if the total proportion of coco-caprylate / caprate is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 5.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 4.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 3.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

[0039] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase includes undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol.

[0040] If undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol are included, it is preferred that the total proportion of these components is 1.0 to 60 wt.%, preferably 1.2 to 50 wt.%, preferably 1.4 to 25 wt.%, preferably 1.7 to 18 wt.% and particularly preferably 2.0 to 12 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

[0041] If undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol are included, it is preferred that the proportion of any of these components is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

[0042] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase comprises Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil and / or Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil. If Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil and / or Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil are included, it is preferred if the proportion of any one of these components is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

[0043] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase comprises one or more dyes. Advantageously selected dyes included in the oil phase are from the group consisting of CI 61565, CI 60725, Haematococcus Pluvialis, and CI 75130. Preferred embodiments of the invention are further advantageously characterized in that they are free of silicone oils and / or silicone components. By definition, silicone components are understood to be liquid substances under normal conditions that contain an alkyl silicon group. "Free of" in this context means that these components are not present.

[0044] Furthermore, it is advantageous if sodium chloride is included in the cosmetic preparation. If sodium chloride is included, it is preferred if the proportion of sodium chloride is 0.01 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 1.1 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.4 to 0.8 wt.%, based on the aqueous phase of the cosmetic preparation.

[0045] Other advantageous formulations are advantageously free of sodium chloride.

[0046] Advantageous embodiments of the invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains additional surfactants in proportions of less than 0.5 wt.%, preferably less than 0.4 wt.%, preferably less than 0.3 wt.%, preferably less than 0.2 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%, and particularly preferably in a proportion of 0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the preparation. Consequently, it is particularly preferred that no additional surfactants are contained.

[0047] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation is free of benzethonium chloride. Accordingly, the preparation advantageously contains no benzethonium chloride.

[0048] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the preparation is characterized in that it comprises trisodium EDTA. If trisodium EDTA is included, it is advantageous if the total proportion of trisodium EDTA is between 0.01 and 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0049] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the preparation is characterized in that it comprises EDDS (ethylenediamine succinic acid) or its salts. If EDDS and / or its salts are included, it is advantageous if the total proportion of EDDS and / or its salts is between 0.01 and 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0050] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the present invention if the preparation is characterized by comprising glycerin. If glycerin is included, it is advantageous if it is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 4.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 4.0 wt.%, based on the total weight. Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the present invention if the preparation is characterized by comprising phenoxyethanol. If phenoxyethanol is included, it is advantageous if it is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 0.8 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.%, based on the total weight.

[0051] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the water phase comprises water. If water is included, it is further advantageous if the total water content, based on the total weight of the water phase, is more than 90 wt.%, preferably more than 92 wt.%, preferably more than 94 wt.%, preferably more than 96 wt.%, and less than 98 wt.%.

[0052] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the aqueous phase of the preparation includes one or more water-soluble dyes, in particular CI 16035 (FD&C Red 40; 6-Hydroxy-5-((6- methoxy-4-sulfo-m-tolyl)azo)-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt).

[0053] Another noteworthy factor with two-phase products is their filling ratio. Finding the right balance between the water and oil phases proved crucial for optimal cleaning performance. Too little oil negatively impacts cleaning efficiency.

[0054] Since two-phase preparations are frequently used as cleansing agents and especially as eye makeup removers, very good tolerability is particularly important in the area around the eye. This is achieved by the preparation according to the invention.

[0055] Advantageously, the preparations according to the invention comprise less than 0.01 wt.%, in particular 0 wt.% of polymers and / or thickeners, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0056] The preparations of the invention may further comprise cosmetic ingredients such as are commonly used in such formulations. These include additional colorants, perfume ingredients, or skin-conditioning agents.

[0057] Examples

[0058] The following example formulations are intended to illustrate the present invention. Numerical values ​​refer to weight percentages based on the total mass of the preparation. The following table shows the composition of the aqueous and oil phases of the example formulations. The mixing ratio of the aqueous and oil phases, expressed as weight percent, is also given in the first column. All values ​​are expressed as weight percent.

[0059] The oil and water phases were prepared separately, analogous to the description above. 20 mL of the water phase was taken before mixing with the oil phase and placed in a 30 mL Turbiscan vial. The transmission of the water phase was measured in standard 30 mL cylindrical vials at a height of 30 mm from the bottom of the vial at a wavelength of 880 nm and 25 °C using MICROTRAC TURBISCAN AGS. The higher transmission value indicates that the water phase is clearer. It is crucial for the production process that the water phase is as clear as possible. Otherwise, quality control cannot guarantee that the water phase is not contaminated at the production facility.

[0060] The measured values ​​for the transmission of the pure water phase before mixing with the oil phase are given in the table above. In the table above, Examples 5 and 6 represent examples according to the invention. All other examples are for comparison.

[0061] Subsequently, both phases were combined under normal conditions. The resulting products were mixed once and analyzed spectroscopically.

[0062] Specifically, 1.5 g of the oil phase and 18.5 g of the aqueous phase were added to a 30 mL Turbiscan vial. The vial containing the two-phase formula was shaken vigorously by hand 20 times to ensure complete mixing of the phases. Subsequently, the transmission of the aqueous phase (at a height of 30 mm above the bottom of the vial) and the transmission of the oil phase (at a height of 37 mm above the bottom of the vial) were measured hourly for 24 hours. The measurements were performed at 880 nm and 25°C using the MICROTRAC TURBISCAN AGS.

[0063] The specific transmission values ​​are given in the following table:

[0064] It is evident that, without benzethonium chloride, a comparably transparent formulation with respect to the oil and water phases in the presence of salicylic acid can only be achieved by the present invention. Further example formulations:

Claims

Claims 1. A two-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a horizontally separated two-phase system comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, characterized in that the preparation comprises a) sophorolipid and b) salicylic acid.

2. Preparation according to claim 1 characterized in that the sophorolipid is contained in a proportion of 0.0001 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.0005 to 1 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 0.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.03 to 0.2 wt.%, based on the total mass of the aqueous phase of the preparation.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that salicylic acid is contained in a proportion of 0.0001 to 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.001 to 0.2 wt.%, preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 0.05 wt.%, wherein the values ​​refer to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the preparation.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of salicylic acid to sophorolipid is from 12:1 to 1:50, preferably from 10:1 to 1:5, advantageously from 7:1 to 1:1 and particularly preferably from 6:1 to 2:

1.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oil phase contained in the preparation is from 98:2 to 50:50, preferably from 96:4 to 75:30, preferably from 94:6 to 85:15 and particularly preferably from 93:7 to 90:

10.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises one or more oils selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, undecane, C15-19 alkanes, and coco-caprylate / caprate.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises isododecane and the total proportion of isododecane is 50.0 to 95 wt.%, preferably 60.0 to 93.0 wt.%, preferably 75.0 to 90.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 80.0 to 88.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises isohexadecane and the total proportion of isohexadecane from 2.0 to 60 wt.%, preferably from 3.0 to 45 wt.%, preferably from 4.0 to 35 wt.%, preferably from 5.0 to 25 wt.% and particularly preferably from 6.0 to 20 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the oil phase of the preparation.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises one or more colorants.

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the preparation is free of silicone oils and / or silicone components.

11. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it contains sodium chloride and the proportion of sodium chloride is from 0.01 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 1.1 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt.%, based on the aqueous phase of the cosmetic preparation.

12. Preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it does not contain sodium chloride.

13. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the total water content, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, is more than 90 wt.%, preferably more than 92 wt.%, preferably more than 94 wt.%, preferably more than 96 wt.%, and less than 98 wt.%.

14. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the aqueous phase of the preparation comprises one or more water-soluble dyes, in particular CI 16035 (FD&C Red 40; 6-Hydroxy-5-((6-methoxy-4-sulfo- m-tolyl)azo)-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt).

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