Biphasic product comprising sophorolipids

Abstract

A biphasic cosmetic product comprising sophorolipids.

Description

[0001] Two-phase product with sophorolipids

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic two-phase product comprising sophorolipids.

[0003] Cosmetic products generally serve not only to make one look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to increased self-esteem and well-being. Consumers often apply decorative cosmetics to improve their appearance. However, these products are removed from the skin in the evening before going to bed. Cosmetic cleansing products are used for this removal; these products offer particularly effective cleansing without causing skin irritation.

[0004] A typical category of these cleaning products are cosmetic two-phase products, which are mixed by shaking before use. After use, the products separate within a short time. The presence of two separate phases is indicated to the consumer, for example, by the different colors of the phases. They consist of a specific proportion of an oil phase and a water phase.

[0005] In the area of ​​cleansing products, it has been shown that two-phase systems offer better cleaning performance, especially with waterproof makeup. Here, the effective cleansing action of oils is combined with water, which minimizes the oily residue.

[0006] To form a two-phase product, a phase containing water and a phase containing oil are required. At rest, these two phases are clearly distinguishable. Due to their different densities, these two phases do not mix spontaneously and thus form a horizontally separated two-phase system. By introducing energy, for example by shaking, the phases can be briefly mixed. However, due to the density difference and the high interfacial tension (IFS) of oil compared to water, a very rapid separation back into the two phases occurs.

[0007] To use two-phase products correctly, the separation rate, and especially the start of the separation, should ideally be slowed down. Otherwise, only one phase, or mostly only one phase, can be extracted and used. This means that if the phases separate immediately after shaking, sometimes only one phase can be extracted, and cleaning is done, for example, with water. This results in reduced cleaning performance because the cleaning effect of the oil is lacking. Products currently on the market either accept that the separation is too rapid, or they attempt to solve the problem by adding surfactants or emulsifiers. While these additives reduce the surface tension, they can lead to prolonged cloudiness of the phases or even precipitation in the preparation.

[0008] EP 2732805 A1 discloses two-phase preparations containing alkyl glucosides, in particular caprylyl / capryl glucoside, as surfactants. However, these formulations have some disadvantages. While caprylyl / capryl glucoside is known as a mild surfactant, it is not hypoallergenic. The document "Patch testing with glucosides: North American Contact Dermatitis Group experience, 2009-2018"

[0009] (https: / / doi.Org / 10.1016 / i.iaad.2022.04.058) describes the allergenic potential of alkyl glucosides. It is desirable to provide comparable products that do not contain any potentially allergenic ingredients. Furthermore, when using caprylyl / capryl glucoside, it is necessary to add an electrolyte, especially sodium chloride, to the two-phase system, as otherwise a transparent oil phase will not be obtained at rest. If an electrolyte is added, larger quantities are usually required.

[0010] The state of the art is known in DE 69531870 T2, which discloses the use of sophorolipids in cosmetic products.

[0011] Sophorolipids are special glycolipids. They can be produced by fermentation of yeasts of the Candida and Torulopsis types, as well as Torulopsis magnoliae, Candida bombicola, Candida apicola, or Candida bogoriensis.

[0012] The essential glucid of extracellular sophorolipids is sophorose (2'-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-β-D-glucopyranose). This sugar can be acetylated at the 6' and 6' positions and is linked to a fatty acid hydroxyl group at the ω or ω-1 position. The lipid fraction of sophorolipids is composed of several hydroxy fatty acids.

[0013] The object of the present invention was to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art and, in particular, to provide preparations with increased transparency in the resting state for the oil phase. That is, continuous turbidity should be prevented. Furthermore, the use of electrolytes, such as sodium chloride in particular, should be minimized.

[0014] Patent application EP0209783A describes sophorolipids and their use as an anti-dandruff agent and bacteriostatic agent.

[0015] The present invention provides a surprising solution to this problem. The invention is a two-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a horizontally separated two-phase system comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, characterized in that the preparation comprises at least one sophorolipid.

[0016] Surprisingly, the addition of at least one sophorolipid resulted in significantly more transparent oil phases, provided the two-phase product had been allowed to stand for 12 hours. This effectively prevented clouding caused by the two phases in the product. Particularly surprising was the fact that even at low salt concentrations, exceptionally transparent oil phases were obtained after a 12-hour stand.

[0017] The term "transparent" here refers to a transmission measurement at 25°C at 880 nm. The higher the transmission, the more transparent the system.

[0018] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under "normal conditions". "Normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa, and 50% relative humidity.

[0019] The term "skin" refers exclusively to human skin.

[0020] Where weight percentages (wt%) are given below without reference to a specific composition or mixture, these percentages always refer to the total weight of the preparation. Where ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed below, these ratios refer to the weight ratios of the components / substances / groups of substances mentioned.

[0021] Where weight percentage ranges for the components of the preparation are specified below, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values ​​in steps of 0.1 wt.% within these weight percentage ranges.

[0022] The terms “according to the invention”, “advantageous according to the invention”, “advantageous in the sense of the present invention”, etc., always refer, within the scope of the present disclosure, to the preparation according to the invention as well as the use according to the invention and the method.

[0023] The term "free from" within the meaning of this disclosure means that the proportion of the substance in question does not exceed 0.1% by weight and, in particular, is 0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation. Thus, accidental introduction through impurities should not lead to exclusion from the scope of protection. Emulsifiers are defined as all substances listed under the term "emulsifying agent" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are defined as all substances listed under the term "surfactant" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0024] Any viscosity values ​​given in this disclosure refer to measurements taken at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-0001) using the Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, meaning that a measuring element rotates within the substance being measured. The force required to rotate the measuring element within the sample at a predetermined speed is measured. The viscosity is then calculated from this torque, the rotational speed of the measuring element, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system. The measuring element used is No. 1 (article no. 200 0191), suitable for a viscosity range up to 10,000 mPa·s and a rotational speed of 62.5 min⁻¹.

[0025] When this disclosure refers to an average, that average always refers to arithmetic means.

[0026] Any information regarding the molecular weight of polymers provided in this disclosure refers to measurements taken by means of light scattering.

[0027] Advantageously, the at least one sophorolipid is used in a proportion of 0.0001 to 1 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 0.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.75 to 0.2 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0028] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the total proportion of the oil phase is 5.0 to 70 wt.%, preferably 7.0 wt.% to 55 wt.%, preferably 8.0 to 30 wt.%, preferably 9.0 to 20 wt.% and in particular 10 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0029] The oil phase of the preparation according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more oils selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, undecane, C15-19 alkanes, and coco-caprylate / caprate.

[0030] It is advantageous if isododecane is included. If the oil phase comprises isododecane, it is advantageous if the total isododecane content is 2.0 to 60 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 50 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 25 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 18 wt.%, and particularly preferably 6.0 to 12 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0031] It is advantageous if isohexadecane is included. If the oil phase comprises isohexadecane, it is advantageous if the total proportion of isohexadecane is 2.0 to 35 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 30 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 25 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 18 wt.%, and particularly preferably 6.0 to 12 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0032] It is advantageous if isopropyl palmitate is included. If the oil phase comprises isopropyl palmitate, it is advantageous if the total proportion of isopropyl palmitate is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0033] It is advantageous if undecane is included. If the oil phase comprises undecane, it is advantageous if the total proportion of undecane is 0.1 to 15 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 10.5 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 8.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 3.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0034] It is advantageous if C15-19 alkanes are present. If the oil phase comprises C15-19 alkanes, it is advantageous if the total proportion of C15-19 alkanes is 0.1 to 15 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 12.5 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 9.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 5.0 to 8.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0035] It is advantageous if coco-caprylate / caprate is included. If the oil phase comprises coco-caprylate / caprate, it is advantageous if the total proportion of coco-caprylate / caprate is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0036] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase includes undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol.

[0037] If undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether, and / or octyldodecanol are included, it is preferred that the total proportion of these components is 1.0 to 60 wt.%, preferably 1.2 to 50 wt.%, preferably 1.4 to 25 wt.%, preferably 1.7 to 18 wt.%, and particularly preferably 2.0 to 12 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. If undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether, and / or octyldodecanol are included, it is preferred that the proportion of any one of these components is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0038] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase comprises Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil and / or Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil. If Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil and / or Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil are included, it is preferred if the proportion of any one of these components is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0039] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the oil phase contains one or more colorants. Colorants advantageously included in the oil phase are selected from the group containing CI 61565, CI 60725, Haematococcus Pluvialis, and CI 75130.

[0040] Preferred embodiments of the invention are further advantageously characterized in that they are free of silicone oils and / or silicone components. By definition, silicone components are understood to be liquid substances under normal conditions that contain an alkyl silicon group. "Free of" in this context means that these components are not present.

[0041] Furthermore, it has been advantageously shown according to the invention that significantly more transparent oil phases are obtained even without the addition of electrolytes, in particular without the addition of sodium chloride, than when using other surfactants contained in commercial products. A typically used surfactant is carylyl / capryl glucoside. When used without electrolytes, this exhibits cloudy oil phases, which is undesirable.

[0042] Consequently, an advantageous embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the preparation does not include any added sodium chloride. "Added" is understood to mean that it is present as a separate raw material. However, according to the invention, it is possible for sodium chloride to be present as a component of other raw materials, for example, via the ion product of two contained components. Accordingly, the proportion of added sodium chloride in this embodiment is advantageously 0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0043] Another embodiment of the invention is advantageously characterized in that it contains absolutely no sodium chloride. Accordingly, the proportion of sodium chloride in this advantageous embodiment is 0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0044] According to the invention, the transparency of the oil phase could be significantly increased by the presence of sophorolipids. The preparations were significantly less cloudy than comparable preparations with known surfactants or similar surfactants.

[0045] Surprisingly, it was also possible to produce even more transparent products by adding an electrolyte, particularly sodium chloride. This has the advantage that, surprisingly, a lower corrosive potential was achieved while maintaining the same formula properties. Consequently, fewer corrosion problems occur during production.

[0046] Consequently, advantageous embodiments also arise, characterized by the inclusion of an electrolyte. Particularly advantageous embodiments of the invention contain sodium chloride. If at least one electrolyte is included, it is preferred that the total proportion of electrolytes be 0.01 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. If sodium chloride is included, it is preferred that the total proportion of sodium chloride be 0.01 to 3 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. Furthermore, it can be advantageous if sodium chloride is included in a proportion of 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0047] Generally, it is desirable to minimize the proportion of sodium chloride in formulas, as this can accelerate corrosion in production equipment. This leads to a higher need for replacing components of the production equipment.

[0048] Advantageous embodiments of the invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains additional surfactants in proportions of less than 0.5 wt.%, preferably less than 0.4 wt.%, preferably less than 0.3 wt.%, preferably less than 0.2 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%, and particularly preferably in a proportion of 0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. Consequently, it is particularly preferred that no additional surfactants are contained.

[0049] Advantageous embodiments can be further advantageously characterized by the inclusion of at least one additional non-ionic surfactant. This surfactant is advantageously different from alkyl glucosides. According to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation is free of benzethonium chloride. Accordingly, the preparation advantageously contains no benzethonium chloride.

[0050] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the preparation is characterized in that it comprises trisodium EDTA. If trisodium EDTA is included, it is advantageous if the total proportion of trisodium EDTA is between 0.01 and 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0051] Furthermore, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the preparation is characterized in that it comprises EDDS (ethylenediamine succinic acid) or its salts. If EDDS and / or its salts are included, it is advantageous if the total proportion of EDDS and / or its salts is between 0.01 and 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0052] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the context of the present invention if the preparation is characterized by comprising glycerin. If glycerin is included, it is advantageous if it is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 3.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 3.0 wt.%, based on the total weight.

[0053] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the context of the present invention if the preparation is characterized by comprising sodium chloride. If sodium chloride is included, it is advantageous if it is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 0.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.2 to 0.4 wt.%, based on the total weight.

[0054] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the context of the present invention if the preparation is characterized by comprising phenoxyethanol. If phenoxyethanol is included, it is advantageous if it is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 0.8 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.%, based on the total weight.

[0055] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the water phase comprises water. If water is included, it is further advantageous if the total water content, based on the total weight of the water phase, is more than 90 wt.%, preferably more than 92 wt.%, preferably more than 94 wt.%, preferably more than 96 wt.%, and less than 98 wt.%.

[0056] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the aqueous phase of the preparation contains one or more water-soluble dyes, in particular CI 16035 (FD&C Red 40; 6-Hydroxy-5-((6-methoxy-4-sulfo-m-tolyl)azo)-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt). Another noteworthy factor with two-phase products is their filling ratio. Finding the right balance between the aqueous and oil phases proved crucial for achieving optimal cleaning performance. Too little oil negatively impacts cleaning efficiency.

[0057] Ideally, the weight ratio of the water phase to the oil phase is chosen to be in the range of 20 to 1 to 2 to 3, in particular 15 to 1 to 1 to 1, advantageously 12 to 1 to 8 to 1.

[0058] Since two-phase preparations are frequently used as cleansing agents and especially as eye makeup removers, very good tolerability is particularly important in the area around the eye. This is achieved by the preparation according to the invention.

[0059] Advantageously, the preparations according to the invention comprise less than 0.01 wt.%, in particular 0 wt.% of polymers and / or thickeners, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0060] The production of the two-phase preparations according to the invention can advantageously proceed as shown below by way of example.

[0061] The following is an example of a manufacturing instruction:

[0062] Water phase:

[0063] Oil phase:

[0064] Mix the oil phase and water phase together according to the proportions.

[0065] The following manufacturing process is also advantageous: or or

[0066] Examples

[0067] The following example recipes are intended to illustrate the present invention. Numerical values ​​refer to weight percentages based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0068] The oil and water phases were prepared separately, analogous to the description above. A total of 125 ml of the two-phase formula was prepared in a 125 ml PET bottle. The bottle containing the two-phase formula was vigorously shaken by hand 20 times to ensure complete mixing of the phases. After shaking, the bottle was left undisturbed for 12 hours. Subsequently, the entire oil phase was withdrawn and transferred to standard 30 ml cylindrical Turbiscan vials. The transmission of the oil phase was measured in standard 30 ml cylindrical vials at a height of 15 mm from the bottom of the vial at a wavelength of 880 nm and 25 °C using MICROTRAC TURBISCAN AGS. A higher transmission value indicates a clearer oil phase.

[0069]

[0070] Example formulations 1 to 6 are for comparison. Examples 7 to 9 are according to the invention. Examples 1 to 3 contain the commonly used caprylyl / capryl glucoside as a surfactant. If no electrolyte is added, the oil phase is cloudy at rest and exhibits a transmission of 0%. Only by adding, for example, 1% or 3% sodium chloride can an almost transparent oil phase be obtained. Examples 4 to 6 contain rhamnolipids, which are also listed under the INCI name glycolipids. Transparent formulations are only possible if particularly high salt concentrations are used. However, if the sophorolipid according to the invention is used, it was surprisingly found that even without the addition of electrolytes, a high transmission for the oil phase is achieved. As soon as sodium chloride is added, the highest transmission observed in the measurement series is obtained.In particular, this allows for higher transmission values ​​at lower salt concentrations.

[0071] Further examples:

Claims

Claims 1. A two-phase cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a horizontally separated two-phase system comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, characterized in that the preparation comprises at least one sophorolipid.

2. Preparation according to claim 1 characterized in that the at least one sophorolipid is contained in a proportion of 0.0001 to 1 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 0.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.75 to 0.2 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the total proportion of the oil phase is 5.0 to 70 wt.%, preferably 7.0 wt.% to 55 wt.%, preferably 8.0 to 30 wt.%, preferably 9.0 to 20 wt.% and in particular 10 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase of the preparation according to the invention comprises one or more oils selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate, undecane, C15-19 alkanes, and coco-caprylate / caprate.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises isododecane and the total proportion of isododecane is 2.0 to 60 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 50 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 25 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 18 wt.% and particularly preferably 6.0 to 12 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises isohexadecane and the total proportion of isohexadecane is 2.0 to 35 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 30 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 25 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 18 wt.% and particularly preferably 6.0 to 12 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises isopropyl palmitate and the total proportion of isopropyl palmitate is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 7.5 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 2.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises undecane and the total proportion of undecane is from 0.1 to 15 wt.%, preferably from 0.3 to 10.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.4 to 8.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 3.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises C15-19 alkanes and the total proportion of C15-19 alkanes is 0.1 to 15 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 12.5 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 10 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 9.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 5.0 to 8.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises coco-caprylate / caprate and the total proportion of coco-caprylate / caprate is 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 6.5 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

11. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises undecane, ethylhexyl cocoate, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol.

12. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises one or more colorants selected from the group consisting of CI 61565, CI 60725, Haematococcus Pluvialis and CI 75130.

13. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the preparation is free of silicone oils and / or silicone components.

14. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it contains sodium chloride and the total proportion of sodium chloride is 0.01 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

15. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 13 characterized in that the preparation is free of sodium chloride.

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