Agent for dyeing keratin fibers

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic formulation containing a dye precursor, a direct dye and at least 8% w / w of an aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10 carbon atoms; to the use thereof for dyeing keratin fibers; and to a corresponding application method. The invention also relates to a kit comprising the cosmetic formulation according to the invention in combination with an additional cosmetic formulation, such as a shampoo. The invention also relates to a kit comprising the cosmetic formulation according to the invention and an applicator, wherein the applicator is integrated in particular into a container for the cosmetic formulation; and to the use of a container having an integrated applicator for providing and / or applying the cosmetic formulation.

Description

[0001] 222218PW0

[0002] Dr. Kurt Wolff GmbH & Co. KG

[0003] Agents for dyeing keratin fibers

[0004] The present invention relates to a cosmetic formulation comprising a dye precursor, a direct dye, and at least 8% by weight of an aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10 carbon atoms, the use of which for dyeing keratin fibers, and a corresponding application method. The invention further relates to a kit comprising the cosmetic formulation according to the invention in combination with an additional cosmetic formulation, such as a shampoo. The invention further relates to a kit comprising the cosmetic formulation according to the invention and an applicator, wherein the applicator is in particular integrated into a container for the cosmetic formulation, and to the use of a container with an integrated applicator for dispensing and / or applying the cosmetic formulation.

[0005] A person's hair color depends on the amount of melanins, eumelanin and pheomelanin, contained in the hair's cortex and produced by melanocytes in the hair follicles. As part of the normal aging process, but also due to certain illnesses, stress, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, or excessive alcohol or nicotine consumption, melanin production can decrease, resulting in hypopigmentation. Such hair appears white or colorless to the observer. The visual impression of gray hair results from the mixture of pigmented and unpigmented hairs.

[0006] The average life cycle of a hair is three to seven years, after which the hair falls out and a new hair grows in its place. Gradually, the proportion of white or unpigmented hairs increases, and the hair turns gray.

[0007] Changing hair color, and in particular the pigmentation or repigmentation of gray hair, represents an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Good colorfastness, effective gray coverage, and long-lasting results are especially desirable.

[0008] For permanent, intense colorations with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are conventionally used. Such dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, or atmospheric oxygen, react with each other or with one or more coupler components to form the actual dyes.

[0009] However, the use of oxidative dyes is still associated with impairment or damage to the hair and especially its surface structure.

[0010] Alternatively, precursors of the natural hair pigment melanin can be applied to the hair, which, through oxidative processes within the hair, form practically nature-identical pigments. The coloring process can be carried out using atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidizing agent, thus eliminating the need for any other oxidizing agents. Such a process, using 5,6-dihydroxyindoline as a pigment precursor, is described, for example, in EP 0 530 229 B1.

[0011] In contrast, temporary hair colors use direct dyes, also known as direct dyes. These are dye molecules that adhere directly to the hair shaft and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, colors achieved with direct dyes are less long-lasting and wash out more quickly. Dyes with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.

[0012] WO 99 / 66890 describes a dye for coloring keratin fibers containing a dye precursor, which may be an indoline or indole derivative, e.g., a derivative of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline or 5,6-dihydroxyindole, as well as an amino acid or an oligopeptide. The color can be formed by air oxidation. DE 10 2018 127 182 A1 relates to a two-component system for artificial hair coloring, comprising separately an anhydrous carrier medium, which includes an alkane, a fatty alcohol, and an alcohol, and an aqueous phase containing hydrogen peroxide. An organosilicon compound from the silane group may be included for hair protection and conditioning.

[0013] DE 10 2007 038 484 A1 describes a hair treatment product for protection against external influences, wherein the hair treatment product contains bacterial ferment(s) from Thermus thermophilus.

[0014] WO 2005 / 007615 A1 concerns 2-(amino or substituted amino)-5-(substituted oxymethyl)-phenol compounds and compositions for the oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers.

[0015] EP 4 154 864 describes a cosmetic formulation which contains, in addition to dye precursors, a direct dye.

[0016] In summary, there is still room for improvement, particularly regarding colorfastness, grey coverage, and the duration of dyeing performance.

[0017] Surprisingly, it was found that the results regarding the quality, intensity, and duration of the coloring effect are improved, while simultaneously minimizing disruption or damage to the hair structure, when the formulation additionally contains a certain proportion of potentially functionalized aliphatic hydrocarbons. While not bound to any specific theory, the hydrocarbon component appears to improve the penetration of the dye precursor and / or the direct dye into the keratin fiber.

[0018] The object of the present invention can therefore be seen as providing a cosmetic formulation suitable for the pigmentation or repigmentation of keratin fibers, particularly human hair, and which offers, in particular, improved longevity properties of the pigmented or repigmented keratin fibers as well as improved gray coverage. Furthermore, this cosmetic formulation should exhibit improved properties compared to conventional formulations with regard to the quality, intensity, and duration of the coloring effect.

[0019] The problem was surprisingly solved by a cosmetic formulation that

[0020] (i) at least one dye precursor selected from the group consisting of indoline derivatives and indole derivatives,

[0021] (ii) at least one direct dye and

[0022] (iii) at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10, preferably 10-50, carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one functional group selected from -OH and -COOR, wherein R is independently H, a glycerol derivative or a physiologically acceptable cation, wherein component (iii) preferably comprises at least 8 wt.%, more preferably 8-20 wt.%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation.

[0023] Surprisingly, it was found that gray hairs were significantly covered and the hair gradually darkened, with the color effect building up subtly. The overall impression of the hair color is noticeably darker. Furthermore, even after several washes, the color hardly fades and the reappearance of gray at the roots is reduced.

[0024] The dye precursor contained in the formulation according to the invention, which is an indole derivative and / or indolin derivative, is preferably an indole derivative and / or indolin derivative having a hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may bear further substituents, e.g., in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. Compounds with two of these groups, in particular two hydroxy groups, one or both of which may be etherified or esterified, are especially preferred. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the dye precursor is an indole derivative.

[0025] Preferably according to the invention, the dye precursor is a derivative of 5,6-dihydroxyindole of formula (I), each independently of each other,

[0026] R 1Hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl group means,

[0027] R 2 hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group can also exist as a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation,

[0028] R 3 Hydrogen or a Ci-C4 alkyl group means

[0029] R 4 Hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, an amino group or a group - COR 6 means, in the R 6 a Ci-C4 alkyl group means, and

[0030] R 5 one of the under R 4 The aforementioned groups mean, or a physiologically acceptable salt of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

[0031] Preferred indole derivatives are 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI), N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole.

[0032] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI), N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0033] The dye precursor used in the formulation according to the invention is particularly preferably 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI).

[0034] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the dye precursor is an indoline derivative. Preferably, the dye precursor is a derivative of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of formula (II). each independently of each other,

[0035] R 1 Hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl group means,

[0036] R 2 hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group can also exist as a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation,

[0037] R3 Hydrogen or a Ci-C4 alkyl group means

[0038] R 4 Hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, an amino group or a group - COR 6 means, in the R 6 a Ci-C4 alkyl group means, and

[0039] R 5 one of the under R 4 The aforementioned groups mean, or a physiologically acceptable salt of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

[0040] Preferred indoline derivatives are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

[0041] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (II) is selected from 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0042] The dye precursor used in the formulation according to the invention is particularly preferably 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

[0043] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the dye precursor used in the formulation according to the invention is dihydroxyindole hydrobromide (2,3-dihydro-1 H-indole-5,6-diol hydrobromide).

[0044] The indole and indoline derivatives contained in the compositions according to the invention can be used both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically compatible salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g. the hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides.

[0045] The indole or indolin derivative is typically present in the formulation according to the invention in an amount of at least 0.1 wt.%, preferably at least 0.2 wt.%, preferably 0.2-1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%, even more preferably 0.35-0.5 wt.%, preferably in an amount of about 0.2 wt.%, 0.25 wt.%, 0.3 wt.%, 0.35 wt.%, 0.4 wt.%, 0.5 wt.%, respectively, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0046] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the dye precursor is an indole derivative, preferably 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI), wherein in the formulation according to the invention it is preferably contained in an amount of 0.2-2 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0047] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the dye precursor is an indoline derivative, preferably dihydroxyindoline hydrobromide (2,3-dihydro-1 H-indole-5,6-diol hydrobromide), wherein this is preferably contained in the formulation according to the invention in an amount of 0.2-1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0048] The formulation according to the invention can also contain more than one indole or indolin derivative or mixtures of indole and indolin derivatives.

[0049] The formation of the pigment from the dye precursor, i.e. the indole or indolin derivative, occurs through reaction with atmospheric oxygen; no additional oxidizing agent is required.

[0050] The formulations according to the invention further contain at least one direct dye.

[0051] It was found that the color effect of a formulation containing both an indole- or indolin-type dye precursor and a direct dye is more intense than would have been expected based on the color effects of the individual components: the indole- or indolin-type dye precursor and the direct dye. The darkening effects are synergistically enhanced by the combination with direct dyes.

[0052] As mentioned at the beginning, direct dyes are dye molecules that adhere directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color.

[0053] Preferred direct-drawing dyes include nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, nitro dyes, anthraquinones, and indophenols, and are preferably selected from the group of dyes known by the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, HC Orange i, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, Basic Orange 31, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 16. Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Basic Blue 99, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(ß-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene,3-Nitro-4-(ß- hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1 -(2'- Hydroxyethyl)amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzol, 1 -Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5- chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1 -(2-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 4- Amino-2-nitrodiphenylamin-2'-carbonsäure, 6-N itro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2- Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochinon, Hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidin, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chlor-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chlor- 6-ethylamino-1 -hydroxy-4-nitrobenzol.,

[0054] The direct-drawing dye is typically present in the formulation according to the invention in an amount of 0.001–5 wt.%, preferably 0.01–3 wt.%, preferably 0.01–2 wt.%, preferably 0.05–1.2 wt.%, preferably in an amount of about 0.01 wt.%, 0.1 wt.%, 0.2 wt.%, 0.3 wt.%, 0.4 wt.%, 0.5 wt.%, 0.6 wt.%, 0.8 wt.%, 1.0 wt.%, 1.1 wt.%, 1.2 wt.%, 1.3 wt.%, 1.4 wt.%, 1.5 wt.%, 1.6 wt.%, 1.7 wt.%, 1.8 wt.%, 1.9 wt.%, 2.0 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment, the direct-drawing dye is selected from the group consisting of 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-Bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Blue 99, HC Blue 2 (2,2'-[[4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitrophenyl]imino]bisethanol), HC Blue 12, HC Blue 16 and Acid Violet 43.

[0056] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the direct-drawing dye is HC Blue 2.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the formulation according to the invention contains 5,6-dihydroxyindole as a dye precursor and HC Blue 2 as a direct-drawing dye. The 5,6-dihydroxyindole is present in an amount of 0.2–0.5 wt% and the direct-drawing dye in an amount of 0.01–2 wt%, each based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0058] According to the invention, the cosmetic formulation contains at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon with at least 10 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted with at least one functional group selected from -OH and -COOR. The aliphatic hydrocarbon is preferably a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, and more preferably a saturated hydrocarbon. The hydrocarbon preferably has 10-23, more preferably 10-21 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbons according to component (iii) are preferably unbranched.

[0059] The aliphatic hydrocarbon (iii) preferably has 10-21 unbranched carbon atoms, is saturated and substituted with -OH.

[0060] Preferred representatives of component (iii) are paraffins, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, glycerol fatty acid esters or their salts.

[0061] Preferred paraffins (unsubstituted hydrocarbons) are Cio-so paraffins, more preferably Ci6-23 paraffins. Preferred fatty alcohols (substituted with -OH) are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, margaryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, in particular lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, especially cetearyl alcohol.

[0062] Preferred fatty acids (R=H) are capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, in particular lauric acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, more preferably palmitic acid and stearic acid.

[0063] In the case of R = glycerol derivative, in particular glycerol residue, glycerol monofatty acid ester residue, or glycerol difatty acid ester residue, the substituted hydrocarbon is a glycerol fatty acid ester. In the present invention, the term "glycerol fatty acid ester" refers to a glycerol mono-, glycerol di-, or glycerol trifatty acid ester. Glycerol difatty acid esters have the formula R'-COO-(CH₂CH(OH)CH₂)-OOCR' or R'-COO-(CH₂CH(OOCR)CH₂)-OH. Glycerol monofatty acid esters have the formula R'-COO-(CH₂CH(OH)CH₂)-OH or HO-(CH₂CH(OOCR)CH₂)-OH. Here, R is, independently of each other, the aliphatic hydrocarbon as defined above. Glycerol monofatty acid esters contain a glycerol group which is linked to a single fatty acid via an ester bond. In glycerol trifatty acid esters, all hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified with fatty acids. Suitable examples are glycerol monostearate, glycerol monobehenate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monocaprate, and glycerol monolaurate.

[0064] Preferably component (iii) is at least a paraffin, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, glycerol fatty acid ester or a mixture thereof, in particular at least a saturated Cio-23 fatty alcohol, at least a saturated C -23 fatty acid or a mixture thereof, in particular at least a saturated Cio-23 fatty alcohol.

[0065] According to the invention, the proportion of component (iii) is at least 6 wt.%, preferably 6-20 wt.%, preferably 8-20 wt.%, preferably 9-20 wt.%, and more preferably 8-17 wt.% based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation. The mass ratio between components ((i) + (ii)) and component (iii) is preferably in the range of 1:5 to 1:70, and more preferably 1:10 to 1:30.

[0066] Surprisingly, it has been shown that in the presence of component (iii) in the cosmetic formulation, the dye precursors and / or the direct dyes penetrate the keratin fiber more quickly. This increases the color depth and simultaneously improves the duration of the dyeing effect compared to conventional formulations. In addition, the processing time can be shortened.

[0067] This effect can be further enhanced by applying the cosmetic formulation according to the invention to the keratin fiber under alkaline conditions. The formulation therefore preferably has a pH value in the range of 7-12, more preferably > 7-12, more preferably 8-12, and most preferably 9-11. Particularly preferably, the formulation has a pH value of > 9.0, more preferably > 9, and especially a pH value in the range of 10-11. It has surprisingly been found that particularly good coloring performance is achieved at a pH value of > 9.0, especially at pH > 9, such as at pH 10-11.

[0068] Furthermore, component (iii) ensures a good feel and the desired viscosity to achieve the strongest possible adhesion of the cosmetic formulation to the keratin fiber. According to the invention, the cosmetic formulation therefore adheres particularly well to short and / or less stressed keratin fibers, for example, temple or beard hairs.

[0069] Furthermore, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention can contain at least one iron-containing pigment (component (iv)). The iron-containing pigment CI 77499 (black iron oxide) is preferred. Component (iv) is preferably present in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 7 wt.%, based on the total mass of the formulation.

[0070] To improve processability and adjust viscosity, the cosmetic formulation may further contain water, in particular purified or distilled water (component (v)). The cosmetic formulation preferably contains 50 to 85 wt.%, more preferably 70 to 85 wt.%, water based on the total mass of the formulation.

[0071] Furthermore, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention can contain all additives (i.e., active ingredients, additives and excipients) known in such preparations.

[0072] In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation comprises a surfactant. The surfactant can be anionic, non-ionic, cationic, or zwitterionic. Preferably, the surfactant is an anionic or non-ionic surfactant, in particular a mild (i.e., especially skin-friendly) anionic or non-ionic surfactant. According to the invention, non-ionic surfactants are used especially because of their very good emulsifying properties and their excellent skin-care properties. Anionic surfactants are preferred because they exhibit particularly high cleaning performance. Therefore, they are especially suitable for cleansing formulations such as shampoos. Cationic surfactants possess excellent hair-care properties and are used according to the invention especially in hair-care formulations such as conditioners, shampoos, and treatments.

[0073] The formulation according to the invention preferably contains surfactants in an amount of 2 to 40 wt.%, in particular 5 to 30 wt.%, preferably 7 to 20 wt.%, and most preferably 10 to 17 wt.%, based on the total weight of the formulation. Suitable amounts of surfactant are: 8 wt.%; 9 wt.%; 10 wt.%; 11 wt.%; 12 wt.%; 13 wt.%; 14 wt.%; 15 wt.%; 16 wt.%; 17 wt.%; 18 wt.%; 19 wt.%; 20 wt.%; 21 wt.%; 22 wt.%; 23 wt.%; 24 wt.%; 25 wt.%, based on the total weight of the formulation. The cosmetic formulation of the invention most preferably contains one or more anionic surfactants in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 1 to 17 wt.%, and most preferably 5 to 15 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation. Suitable amounts of anionic surfactant are: 1 wt.%; 2 wt.%; 3 wt.%; 4 wt.%; 5 wt.%; 6 wt.%; 7 wt.%; 8 wt.%; 9 wt.%; 10 wt.%; 11 wt.%; 12 wt.%.-%; 13 wt%; 14 wt%; 15 wt%; 16 wt%; 17 wt%; 18 wt%, 19 wt%, 20 wt%, each based on the total weight of the formulation. At these amounts, the surfactants exhibit particularly high cleaning performance and are extremely well-tolerated by skin, scalp, and hair.

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is an anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl taurates, amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred is a surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl taurates, alkyl glutamate (such as sodium cocoyl glutamate / disodium cocoyl glutamate), alkyl glycinate, alkyl alaninate (such as sodium cocoyl alaninate), and mixtures thereof. Also preferred, due to their cleaning performance, are fatty alcohol polyglycerol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, and α-olefin sulfonates.

[0075] Alkyl sulfates have the generic formula ROSO3M, alkyl sarcosinates have the generic formula RC(O)N(CH3)CH2CO2M, and alkyl taurates have the generic formula RC(O)N(CH3)CH2CH2SO3M, where R is a C4-C26 alkyl or C4-C26 alkenyl and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, or potassium. Preferably, M is a sodium cation. Preferably, R is a Ci2-Ci6 alkyl or a Ci2-Ci8 alkyl.

[0076] In one embodiment, the surfactant is a nonionic surfactant (also referred to as a nonionic emulsifier). Non-limiting examples include polyoxyethylene ethers of one or more fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters, polyglycerol ethers of fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol ethers, fatty acid amides, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, amine oxides, and alkyl polyglucosides.

[0077] In one embodiment, the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene ethers of one or more fatty alcohols, polyglycerol ethers of fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Polyoxyethylene ethers are compounds of the formula R 5 (OC2H3)nOH, where R 5 The polyoxyethylene ether is selected from Ce-C28 alkyl, Ce-C28 alkenyl, substituted and unsubstituted phenoxy groups; and n is an integer greater than 1. Preferably, the polyoxyethylene ether is selected from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, macrogol cetostearyl ether 12, ceteareth-25, macrogol cetostearyl ether 20, and mixtures of the aforementioned compounds. Even more preferably, the polyoxyethylene ether is a compound selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25, macrogol cetostearyl ether 20, and mixtures of the aforementioned compounds.

[0079] The term "polyglycerol ether of fatty alcohols" refers to a compound of the formula R 6 O-(C3H6O2)nH, where R 6 The compound is a branched or linear Ce-C28 alkyl or Ce-C28 alkenyl, and n is an integer greater than 1, preferably an integer from 2 to 10. It is preferred that the formulation contains 0.01 to 15.0 wt.%, 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%, or 1 to 5.0 wt.% polyglycerol ethers.

[0080] The term "polyglycerol esters of fatty acids" refers to compounds containing both a polyglycerol unit and at least one Ce-C26 alkyl or C6-C26 alkenylcarboxylic acid unit. These compounds may have the formula R 7 -R 8 - (C3H6O2)nH exhibit, where R 7 a Ce-C26 alkanoate or Ce-C26 alkenoate residue and R 8a suitable linking molecule or a direct bond. Thus, the polyglycerol unit and the Ce-C26 alkyl or C6-C26 alkenyl carboxylic acid unit can be directly linked by an ester bond or contain a linking unit that connects these two units. Non-limiting examples of this group are polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglycerol polycrinoleate, polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-distearate (Cremophor GS 32), polyglyceryl-3-oleate, Polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, polyglyceryl-4-caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010190), polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (Isolan GPS) and polyglyceryl-4-isostearate.

[0081] In one embodiment, the surfactant comprises a cationic surfactant, such as a quaternary surfactant. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one nitrogen atom covalently bonded to four alkyl or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge, independent of pH. Advantageous examples are alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, and alkylamidopropyl hydroxysulfaine. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can also preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, and furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides.

[0082] dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides,

[0083] Alkylamide ethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example laurylpyrimidinium or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives, and compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

[0084] In the present invention, the surfactant as defined above is different from the aliphatic hydrocarbon of component (iii).

[0085] In a further embodiment, the formulation according to the invention contains at least one additive. Preferably, the additives are those commonly used in shampoos, conditioners, and emulsions for treating the skin, scalp, and hair. The at least one additive can be present in a proportion of 0.01 wt.% to 12.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.25 wt.% to 10.0 wt.%, and particularly from 1.0 wt.% to 7.0 wt.%.

[0086] The at least one additive may also be selected from the group consisting of hair conditioning agents, emollients, preservatives, stabilizers, fragrances, antioxidants, rheology modifiers, thickeners, conditioning agents, dyes, perigants, lightening agents, solvents, strengthening compounds, anti-dandruff agents, vitamins, alkalizing agents or pH adjusters and combinations thereof.

[0087] Hair conditioning products can reduce static electricity in the hair by neutralizing the electrical charge on its surface. Examples of hair conditioning products include quaternary ammonium compounds.

[0088] Emollients, also called re-fatting agents or superfatting agents, are lipophilic substances that can prevent a disruptive effect on the epidermal barrier function. Examples of emollients include lanolin, squalene, liquid paraffin, vegetable oils, silicones, and cetyl palmitate.

[0089] Preservatives are substances used for preservation by killing microorganisms that degrade the formulation and / or inhibiting their growth. Preferably, the preservatives can be selected from the group consisting of benzoic acid, benzoic acid derivatives, sorbic acid, sorbic acid derivatives, salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives, phenoxyethanol, parabens, and combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, sodium benzoate and / or potassium sorbate are used as preservatives in the formulation according to the invention. Sodium benzoate releases benzoic acid and potassium sorbate releases sorbic acid in a slightly acidic environment. Both acids are attributed with antimicrobial properties.

[0090] Stabilizers can protect light-sensitive components from radiation and are preferably UV absorbers such as benzophenone derivatives.

[0091] The addition of fragrances can give the formulation a pleasant scent. Examples include perfumes familiar to professionals.

[0092] An antioxidant is a chemical compound that slows down or completely prevents the oxidation of other components in the formulation according to the invention. Examples of suitable antioxidants include citric acid, ascorbic acid, sodium sulfite, and butylhydroxyanisole.

[0093] Rheology modifiers and thickening agents can help to improve the application properties of the formulation according to the invention. The addition of sodium chloride (table salt) can be considered as a rheology modifier and thickening agent. The addition of sodium chloride can influence the flowability of the formulation according to the invention within certain limits and adjust it to the required level. Naturally occurring gelling agents, preferably selected from agar, xanthan gum, cellulose and / or cellulose derivatives, or alginic acid, can also be used as thickeners.

[0094] For the purposes of this application, "care products" are defined as substances that care for the hair and / or scalp. Hydrolyzed wheat protein, panthenol, and allantoin have a conditioning effect on the scalp and hair. Hydrolyzed wheat protein primarily has moisturizing properties.

[0095] The formulation according to the invention may also contain dyes, for example to give the formulation an aesthetically pleasing color. For example, CI 47005 may be included as a suitable dye in the formulation according to the invention.

[0096] A solvent or solvent mixture commonly used by those skilled in the art in this field can be employed. Preferred solvents are ethanol or butylene glycol, in particular 1,4-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isopropyl alcohol. Ethanol or propylene glycol is preferred. These solvents may preferably be present in the formulation according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 70% by weight. A particularly preferred amount is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight.

[0097] Strengthening compounds are preferably selected from the group consisting of waxes, synthetic polymers, and mixtures thereof. Suitable strengthening compounds are known to those skilled in the art and are described, for example, in Goddard, E. Desmond; Gruber, James V. (1999), “Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care”, Series: Cosmetic science and technology series: v. 22, New York (Marcel Dekker, INC.); Schrader, Karlheinz (1989), “Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika” (2nd edition), Chapter 3.7, Heidelberg (Hüthig); and Scott, Richard (2017), “ingredients focus: cosmetic waxes and butters”, Personal Care Europe 10(3), 46-47.

[0098] Anti-dandruff agents are used to control excessive dandruff production on the scalp. Suitable anti-dandruff agents are known to those skilled in the art and are described, for example, in Trüeb, RM (2009). "Successfully treating dandruff." Akt Dermatol 35(01 / 02): 19-24; Trueb, RM (2007). "Shampoos: ingredients, efficacy and adverse effects." J. Dtsch. Dermatol. Ges. 5(5): 356-365; Sanfilippo, A. and J. English (2006). "An overview of medicated shampoos used in dandruff treatment." P AND T 31 (7): 396; and Futterer, E. (1981). "Evaluation of efficacy of antidandruff agents." J Soc Cosmet Chem 32: 327-338.

[0099] Vitamins and minerals such as niacinamide (vitamin B3), vitamin E, and zinc are used to promote hair growth and repair damage. Suitable vitamins and minerals are known to experts and are described, for example, in Pietrzik K, Golly I, Loew D, Handbuch Vitamine (Handbook of Vitamins), Elsevier GmbH, Urban & Fischer Verlag, Munich 2008; H. Lautenschläger, Vitamine in der Kosmetik (Vitamins in Cosmetics), medical Beauty Forum 2020 (3), 14-17; and Martini MC, Chivot M., Peyrefitte G., Lehrbuch Kosmetik: Grundlagen - Grundstoffe - Grundtechniken (Textbook of Cosmetics: Fundamentals - Basic Ingredients - Basic Techniques), Hogrefe AG, Bern 2001.

[0100] Alkalizing agents or pH adjusters are used to adjust the pH of the formulation to a desired range. Suitable alkalizing agents or pH adjusters include, among others, sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine (0.1–5%), phosphoric acid, and citric acid.

[0101] The compositions according to the invention are preferably booster care products.

[0102] Surprisingly, it has been found that the property profile of the formulation according to the invention is particularly well suited to treating short and / or lightly stressed keratin fibers, such as hair at the temples or beard hair, whose coloring is usually considered problematic. In particular, the formulation according to the invention can be easily applied to the temples and / or beard and, surprisingly, requires only a short application time of a few minutes to color the hair effectively and with a long-lasting coloring effect.

[0103] The cosmetic formulation of the present invention is particularly suitable for the pigmentation and / or repigmentation of keratin fibers.

[0104] In one aspect, the invention therefore also relates to the use of the formulation according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular hair, preferably beard hair or hair at the temples.

[0105] For the purposes of this invention, "keratin fibers" means hair, in particular human hair. The term "human hair" specifically includes head hair and beard hair.

[0106] The cosmetic formulation of the present invention can further be used in combination with at least one additional cosmetic formulation. Typically, the additional cosmetic formulation, which differs from the formulation according to the invention, is a shampoo, conditioner, treatment, or tonic. Preferably, the additional cosmetic formulation contains active ingredients, in particular xanthine derivatives such as caffeine and / or a dye precursor (as defined above). Suitable xanthine derivatives are known to those skilled in the art and preferably include naturally occurring xanthines, more preferably caffeine, theophylline, and / or theobromine, and particularly preferably caffeine.

[0107] Conditioners, shampoos, treatments, etc. are known to those skilled in the art. The cosmetic formulation according to the invention is particularly preferably used in combination with the cosmetic formulation described in EP 4 154 864.

[0108] Accordingly, the present invention also relates to a kit comprising

[0109] (a) a cosmetic formulation of the present invention and

[0110] (b) a cosmetic formulation which in particular contains a xanthine derivative and / or colour precursor (as defined above).

[0111] Components (a) and (b) are different cosmetic formulations.

[0112] According to the invention, the composition is applied topically. Topical application means external application, in particular local external application, especially directly onto the keratin fiber.

[0113] In another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising the steps

[0114] (1) Applying the cosmetic formulation of the present invention to the keratin fibers, in particular to beard hair or temples,

[0115] (2) Exposure of the cosmetic formulation to air and, if necessary, conversion of the colorant precursor to the colorant with oxidizing agents and

[0116] (3) Rinse the keratin fibers treated according to step (2) with water.

[0117] Preferably, in step (1), the cosmetic formulation of the present invention is distributed onto the damp or dry hair. This can be done, for example, with a brush (which may be attached to the container holding the formulation).

[0118] In step (2), the formulation according to the invention is preferably allowed to act for 1-30 minutes, more preferably for 2-20 minutes, and even more preferably for 1-5 minutes. It has surprisingly been found that a distinct and lasting coloration occurs after an exposure time of only 1 minute. Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that with exposure times of, for example, 3 or 5 minutes, a very distinct coloration is achieved after the first application, and practically the full coloring effect is achieved after the third application.

[0119] After step (2) the keratin fiber treated in this way is rinsed with water so that preferably all components of the formulation according to the invention are removed after step (3).

[0120] In a preferred embodiment, the keratin fibers can be treated with an additional cosmetic formulation, preferably a shampoo, conditioner, or treatment, before step (1) or after step (3). The additional cosmetic formulation is as described above.

[0121] As described above, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention can be applied using an applicator, for example, a brush. According to the invention, this allows the cosmetic formulation to be distributed easily, evenly, and thoroughly onto the keratin fibers, particularly even onto short keratin fibers such as beard and / or temple hairs. Furthermore, this allows contact with the cosmetic formulation to be essentially limited to the areas of the body being treated, and the formulation can be used particularly efficiently.

[0122] In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic formulation of the present invention is provided in a container with an integrated applicator. A further aspect of the invention therefore relates to the use of a container with an integrated applicator for providing the cosmetic formulation of the invention and / or for applying the cosmetic formulation of the invention to keratin fibers.

[0123] The container can be a rigid container, for example a can, or a compressible container, for example a tube. Preferably, the container is airtight. The applicator comprises distribution means, which are preferably designed as a brush, i.e., with a plurality of bristles that, according to the invention, facilitate the distribution of the formulation onto the keratin fibers. The bristles are preferably made of a polymer material. The number, arrangement, and shape of the bristles are not particularly restricted, provided they are suitable for distributing, and in particular distributing evenly, a viscous formulation, especially onto short keratin fibers. Preferably, the applicator is integrated into the opening and / or the closure of the container.

[0124] In other embodiments, the applicator can be designed to be detachable.

[0125] In some embodiments, the applicator is integrated into a removable lid or closure of the container. In this case, the cosmetic formulation is preferably applied from the container to the applicator, which is separate from the container, and then applied and distributed onto the keratin fibers using the applicator.

[0126] In other preferred embodiments, the applicator is integrated into the opening of the container, wherein the container is in particular a squeezable container, for example a tube. Preferably, the applicator is firmly connected to the container and has one or more dispensing openings or holes oriented towards the container, which simultaneously also form an opening in the container or are aligned with the opening in the container through which the cosmetic formulation can reach the outside and, in particular, a distribution medium such as bristles. In preferred embodiments, the one or more dispensing openings or holes in the applicator are surrounded by bristles.

[0127] According to the invention, in these embodiments, the cosmetic formulation is dispensed from the container through one or more dispensing openings or holes in the applicator directly onto the applicator's distribution means, such as bristles. Thus, the cosmetic formulation can be applied and distributed directly from the container to the keratin fibers via the applicator, with the dosage being adjustable as needed during application. A further advantage is that the formulation's contact with air is reduced while it is in the container. Surprisingly, it has been found that this significantly improves the formulation's shelf life. Preferably, the container is also sealable by a lid, which preferably completely encloses the applicator, and / or by an internal mechanism in the applicator, in particular an airtight seal.In preferred embodiments, the applicator forms a rotary closure with at least one open and one closed state, which can be converted into one another by rotating at least one part of the applicator.

[0128] An exemplary embodiment of the container with applicator is shown in Fig. 5. The applicator is designed as a brush with bristles arranged in an oval shape with a beveled profile around a series of central dispensing openings. The applicator also forms a twist-lock closure that can be opened and closed by rotating the front part of the applicator. According to the invention, when the applicator is open, pressing on the container allows a precisely measured portion of the cosmetic formulation to be applied from the dispensing openings onto the bristles and thus distributed in the desired application area.

[0129] Another aspect of the invention concerns a kit comprising

[0130] - the cosmetic formulation of the present invention, and

[0131] - an applicator for applying the cosmetic formulation.

[0132] The applicator is preferably integrated into a container for the cosmetic formulation and designed as described above.

[0133] Brief description of the characters

[0134] Fig. 1: Color change in a washing test with a product according to the invention

[0135] Formulation (example formulation 1, 0.4% DHI) or with

[0136] Comparison formulations 1-3 (V1-V3, shampoos with 0.1%, 0.2%, or 0.4% DHI). The respective formulations were washed on 15 times (washes 1-15) and then rinsed off 10 times (washes 16-25). Shown is the darkening effect dL = |dl_*|, determined spectrophotometrically after each wash, i.e., the magnitude of the brightness difference between the respective sample and an untreated strand of hair.

[0137] Fig. 2: Comparison photos of hair strands treated with DHI booster (example formula)

[0138] 1) were dyed (see Fig. 1), and an untreated control strand. From left to right: untreated hair strand, DHI booster washed on 5x, 10x, or 15x (“ON”), DHI booster washed on 15x and then rinsed off 15x (“OFF”).

[0139] Fig. 3: Color change in a washing test with a product according to the invention

[0140] Formulation (Example Formula 1) with different contact times. The formulation was applied 3 times with a contact time of 1 min, 3 min or 5 min each (wash cycles 1-3) and then rinsed 5 times (wash cycles 4-8).

[0141] Fig. 4: Comparison photos of hair strands colored with a processing time of 1 min, 3 min, or 5 min (see Fig. 3) and an untreated control strand (untreated). Top: Hair strands after 1 rinse; Middle: Hair strands after 2 rinses; Bottom: Hair strands after 3 rinses and 5 rinses. The specified processing time was used for all rinses.

[0142] Fig. 5: Container with brush applicator for dispensing and applying the formulation according to the invention. The brush applicator is designed as a twist-lock cap and can be moved into an open and a closed position (Fig. 5A) by turning (Fig. 5B). The brush is oval-shaped with beveled bristles (Fig. 5A, 5C) and has central dispensing openings (Fig. 5C) through which the formulation can be dispensed when the twist-lock cap is open.

[0143] The following formulations and examples are intended to clarify the invention, without, however, limiting it to the specific examples. Examples

[0144] Recipes

[0145] Example recipe 1

[0146] Ingredient wt.%

[0147] Water to 100

[0148] Niacinamide 0.05

[0149] Cetearyl Alcohol 12

[0150] Stearic acid 2,3

[0151] Palmitic acid 2.2

[0152] Sodium lauryl sulfate 1

[0153] HC Blue 2 0.2

[0154] Monoethanolamine 3

[0155] 5.6-

[0156] Dihydroxyindole 0.4

[0157] Zinc PCA 0.05 pH 10±0.8

[0158] Example recipe 2

[0159] Ingredient wt.%

[0160] Water to 100

[0161] Niacinamide 0.05

[0162] Cetearyl Alcohol 8

[0163] Stearic acid 2,3

[0164] Palmitic acid 2.2

[0165] Sodium lauryl sulfate 1

[0166] HC Blue 2 0.2

[0167] Monoethanolamine 3

[0168] 5.6-

[0169] Dihydroxyindole 0.5

[0170] Zinc PCA 0.05 pH 10±0.8

[0171] Example recipe 3

[0172] Ingredient wt.%

[0173] Water to 100

[0174] Niacinamide 0.05

[0175] Cetearyl Alcohol 15

[0176] Stearic acid 2,3

[0177] Palmitic acid 2,2 Sodium lauryl sulfate 1

[0178] Monoethanolamine 3

[0179] HC Blue 2 0.2

[0180] 5.6-

[0181] Dihydroxyindole 0.3

[0182] Zinc PCA 0.05 pH 10±0.8

[0183] Comparison formulas (shampoos) Application examples

[0184] The coloring effect of formulations according to the invention was investigated by coloring tests (wash-on and wash-off tests) on strands of hair.

[0185] The following hair strands were used for all coloring trials: Kerling white selected, adhesive weft 2cm wide, 12cm long, 3g / piece.

[0186] The coloring effect was determined by scanning hair strands with a Konica Minolta CM600d spectrophotometer using the following settings: measurement geometry d / 8°, specular component excluded (SCE), standard illuminant D65, field of view 10°. The darkening effect dL = |dl_*| was determined as the magnitude of the brightness difference dL* between the treated hair strands and an untreated reference hair strand.

[0187] Protocol for washing / dyeing:

[0188] - Apply the formula and work it into the strand.

[0189] - Leave on for a total of 5 minutes

[0190] Rinse for 1 minute with lukewarm water, then squeeze out excess water using a kitchen roll.

[0191] - Comb, then spread out individually to air dry

[0192] - The next day, scan strands with the Konica-Minolta spectrophotometer and photograph them if necessary, then repeat the washing cycle.

[0193] Protocol for washing / rinsing:

[0194] - Moisten a strand of hair with lukewarm water for 30 seconds, then smooth out excess water between two fingers.

[0195] - Massage 1 g of shampoo into each strand for 1 minute.

[0196] - Leave on for a total of 2 minutes

[0197] Rinse for 1 minute with lukewarm water, then squeeze out excess water using a kitchen roll.

[0198] - Comb, dry - Scan strands with the Konica Minolta spectrophotometer and photograph if necessary, then repeat the washing cycle

[0199] A standard shampoo without coloring effect was used for rinsing.

[0200] Application example 1

[0201] Kerling strands were subjected to a wash-in and wash-out test with a formulation according to the invention (DHI booster) and three comparison formulations. The DHI booster according to the invention is example formulation 1 (0.4 wt% DHI, pH approximately 10). Comparison formulations 1-3, i.e., shampoos comprising 0.1 wt%, 0.2 wt%, or 0.4 wt% DHI with a pH of approximately 7, were used.

[0202] The Kerling strands were subjected to 15 wash cycles followed by at least 10 rinse cycles, according to the protocols above. In each wash cycle, 1.5 g / strand of the respective formulation was used.

[0203] Fig. 1 shows the results of the spectrophotometric determination of the darkening effect after each wash. Exemplary photographs of an untreated strand and of the strand treated with DHI booster after 5, 10, or 15 washes, or 15 washes and 15 rinses, are shown in Fig. 2.

[0204] Figures 1 and 2 show a rapid build-up and excellent wash resistance of the color effect when using the DHI booster according to the invention. A distinct color effect is already visible after the first application, and after five applications the visual color impression is already "black" (Figures 1 and 2). After approximately 10 applications, such complete coloration is achieved that further washing processes no longer produce any measurable color changes. Virtually no color change is observed during rinsing; the resulting color effect is permanent (Figures 1 and 2). Surprisingly, the formulation according to the invention achieves faster color build-up, stronger coloration, and higher wash resistance than the comparable formulations used, even with comparable amounts of the dye precursor 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

[0205] Application example 2

[0206] To investigate the influence of the exposure time on the color effect, Kerling strands were subjected to an application and rinsing test with a formulation according to the invention, with exposure times of 1 min, 3 min, or 5 min. The formulation according to the invention is example formulation 1.

[0207] The Kerling strands were subjected to three washing cycles followed by five rinsing cycles, according to the protocols above. In each washing cycle, 2.5 g / strand of the formulation according to the invention was used. The specified exposure times (1 min, 3 min, and 5 min, respectively) were used for all three washing cycles.

[0208] Fig. 3 shows the results of the spectrophotometric color measurement after each washing process. Exemplary photographs of an untreated strand and of strands treated with the formulation according to the invention at different exposure times after 1 or 2 washing processes or 3 washing and 5 rinsing processes are shown in Fig. 4.

[0209] Surprisingly, it was found that even with a very short exposure time of 1 minute, a rapid and distinct coloration occurred (Fig. 3). With exposure times of 3-5 minutes, an even stronger coloring effect was achieved. Surprisingly, almost no difference was observed between 3 and 5 minutes of exposure time (Fig. 3). This suggests that saturation of the coloring effect per treatment, and thus full coloration, is achieved after an exposure time of 3 minutes at the latest. Even after only 3 wash cycles, good color retention was observed in all cases, even after 5 wash cycles, which further underscores the excellent coloring properties of the formulation according to the invention.

Claims

Claims 1. Cosmetic formulation containing (i) at least one dye precursor selected from the group consisting of indoline derivatives and indole derivatives, (ii) at least one direct dye and (iii) at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10, preferably 10-50, carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one functional group selected from -OH and -COOR, wherein R is independently H, a glycerol derivative or a physiologically acceptable cation, wherein component (iii) preferably constitutes at least 6 wt.%, more preferably 8-20 wt.%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation, and wherein the formulation has a pH of > 9.0, preferably in the range of 9-11.

2. Cosmetic formulation according to claim 1, wherein the dye precursor is an indole derivative, in particular a 5,6-dihydroxyindole derivative according to formula (I) or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, wherein, independently of each other, R 1 Hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl group means, R 2 hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group can also exist as a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation, R 3 Hydrogen or a Ci-C4 alkyl group means R 4 Hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, an amino group or a group - COR 6 means, in the R 6 a Ci-C4 alkyl group means, and R 5 one of the under R 4 This refers to the aforementioned groups.

3. Cosmetic formulation according to claim 1, wherein the dye precursor is an indoline derivative, in particular a 5,6-dihydroxyindoline derivative according to formula (II) or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, wherein, independently of each other, R 1 Hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl group means, R 2 hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group can also exist as a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation, R 3 Hydrogen or a Ci-C4 alkyl group means R 4 Hydrogen, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, an amino group or a group - COR 6 means, in the R 6 a Ci-C4 alkyl group, and R 5 one of the under R 4 This refers to the aforementioned groups.

4. Cosmetic formulation according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the component (i) constitutes at least 0.2 wt.%, preferably 0.2-0.5 wt.%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation.

5. Cosmetic formulation according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the direct-drawing dye is a nitrophenylenediamine, nitroaminophenol, nitro dye, azo dye, anthraquinone or indophenol, and wherein component (ii) preferably constitutes 0.01-2 wt% based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation.

6. Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aliphatic hydrocarbon (iii) has 10-21 unbranched carbon atoms, is saturated and is substituted with -OH.

7. Cosmetic formulation according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the formulation has a pH value of > 9, preferably in the range of 10-11.

8. Cosmetic formulation according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising (iv) at least one iron-containing pigment, preferably in an amount of 0.01-20 wt% based on the total mass of the formulation, and (v) water, if applicable, preferably in an amount of 50-85% by weight based on the total mass of the formulation.

9. Use of the cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 1-8 for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

10. Use according to claim 9, wherein the hairs are beard hairs or hairs at the temples.

11. Use according to one of claims 9 and 10, in combination with at least one additional cosmetic formulation, which in particular contains a xanthine derivative and / or a dye precursor.

12. Kit including (a) a cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 1-8 and (b) a cosmetic formulation which in particular contains a xanthine derivative and / or a colour precursor.

13. Method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising the steps (1) Applying the cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 1-8 to the keratin fibers, in particular to beard hair or temples, (2) Exposure of the cosmetic formulation to air and, if necessary, conversion of the colorant precursor to the colorant with oxidizing agents, and (3) Rinse the keratin fibers treated according to step (2) with water.

14. Method according to claim 13, wherein step (1) is carried out by application with a brush.

15. Method according to claim 13 or 14, wherein step (2) takes 1-5 minutes.

16. Method according to one of claims 13-15, wherein the keratin fibers are treated before step (1) or after step (3) with an additional cosmetic formulation, which in particular contains a xanthine derivative and / or a dye precursor.

17. Use of a container with an integrated applicator for providing the cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 1-8 and / or for applying the cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 1-8 to keratin fibers.

18. Use according to claim 17, wherein the applicator is integrated into the opening and / or the closure of the container.

19. Use according to claim 17 or 18, wherein the applicator is designed as a brush or paintbrush.

20. Kit comprising a cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 1-8 and an applicator for applying the cosmetic formulation.

21. Kit according to claim 20, wherein the cosmetic formulation is provided in a container, wherein the applicator is integrated into the container, preferably into the opening and / or the closure of the container.

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