Composition comprising polymer blend and polyol
A stable cosmetic composition using cationic polymer, fatty acid, and natural polysaccharide forms a resistant film, addressing film instability and promoting sustainability in cosmetic formulations.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-08-21
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions containing hydrophobicized cationic polymers are vulnerable to film instability upon rubbing, and there is a need for more sustainable, environmentally-friendly formulations using renewable raw materials.
A composition comprising cationic polymer, fatty acid, non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide, oil, and polyol, with minimal surfactant content, forms a stable film resistant to rubbing, utilizing natural and renewable materials.
The composition achieves stability and resistance to rubbing, providing long-lasting cosmetic effects and hydration benefits while being environmentally friendly.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] COMPOSITION COMPRISING POLYMER BLEND AND POLYOL
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition including at least one hydrophobicized cationic polymer and at least one polyol, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition.
[0006] BACKGROUND ART
[0007] A composition comprising at least one hydrophobicized cationic polymer has already been known.
[0008] For example, WO 2023 / 120389 discloses a composition which is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one hydrophibicized cationic polymer which is formed by the ionic interaction between the amino or ammonium groups of the cationic polymer and the carboxyl groups of fatty acids. The hydrophibicized cationic polymer can stabilize the composition even without the aid of any surfactant.
[0009] On the other hand, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin.
[0011] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0012] The composition disclosed in WO 2023 / 120389 has been found to form a film which is vulnerable to rubbing when the composition includes a polyol.
[0013] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which comprises at least one cationic polymer and at least one fatty acid, and is capable of forming a film which has improved resistance to rubbing.
[0014] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, comprising:
[0015] (a) at least one cationic polymer;
[0016] (b) at least one fatty acid;
[0017] (c) at least one non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide;
[0018] (d) at least one oil;
[0019] (e) at least one polyol; and
[0020] (f) at least one optional surfactant, wherein the amount of the (f) optional surfactant(s) in the composition is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The (a) cationic polymer can be hydrophobicized by the (b) fatty acid.
[0022] The (a) cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyaminoacids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, and salts thereof.
[0023] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The (b) fatty acid may be selected from C4-C22, preferably C6-C20, more preferably Cs-Cis saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids.
[0025] The amount of the (b) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] The (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide may be selected from nonionic polysaccharides derived from microorganism.
[0027] The (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide may be selected from the group consisting of cardollan, jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
[0028] The amount of the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The (d) oil may be selected from plant oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from plant oils.
[0030] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] The (e) polyol may be selected from C3-C6 polyols, preferably from C3-C6 polyols having two to five hydroxyl groups, and more preferably from C3-C6 polyols having two or three hydroxyl groups.
[0032] The amount of the (e) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0033] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) water.
[0034] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin material.
[0035] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0036] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition which comprises at least one cationic polymer and at least one fatty acid, and is capable of forming a film which has improved resistance to rubbing.
[0037] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0038] (a) at least one cationic polymer;
[0039] (b) at least one fatty acid;
[0040] (c) at least one non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide;
[0041] (d) at least one oil;
[0042] (e) at least one polyol; and
[0043] (I) at least one optional surfactant, wherein the amount of the (f) optional surfactant(s) in the composition is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] The (a) cationic polymer can be hydrophobicized by the (b) fatty acid by the ionic interaction between the amino or ammonium group of the (a) cationic polymer and the carboxyl group of the (b) fatty acid. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) fatty acid can form a complex.
[0045] The (a) cationic polymer and the (b) fatty acid can be obtained from natural resources, and therefore, the above complex can be formed by environmentally friendly materials. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly.
[0046] If the composition according to the present invention is combined with water or comprises water, the hydrophobicized cationic polymer can be present between an oil phase comprising the (d) oil and an aqueous phase comprising the water. The hydrophobicized cationic polymer can be present at the interface of the oil phase and the aqueous phase, and can behave as a polymeric surfactant. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be free from any surfactant.
[0047] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention is stable when being combined with water. For example, when the composition according to the present invention is combined with or comprises water, the phase separation of the oil phase and the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention can be prevented for a long period of time.
[0048] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period of time.
[0049] The composition according to the present invention is stable even when it comprises a relatively large amount of oil, such as up to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can comprise a relatively large amount of oil such as up to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0050] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) at least polyol. A polyol such as glycerine can function as a plasticizer, and therefore, it is expected that the polyol may soften a film formed by the composition, and make the film vulnerable to rubbing.
[0051] However, the composition according to the present invention can form a film which has improved resistance to rubbing due to the presence of the (c) polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention.
[0052] The (c) polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention does not destabilize the composition.
[0053] As the composition according to the present invention can form a film which is resistant to rubbing, the composition can provide a long-lasting cosmetic effect derived from the film.
[0054] As the composition according to the present invention can comprise (e) at least one polyol, the composition can provide useful cosmetic effects, such as hydration of skin and moisturizing feeling, derived from the (e) polyol.
[0055] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[0056] [Composition]
[0057] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0058] (a) at least one cationic polymer;
[0059] (b) at least one fatty acid;
[0060] (c) at least one non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide;
[0061] (d) at least one oil;
[0062] (e) at least one polyol; and
[0063] (f) at least one optional surfactant, wherein the amount of the (f) optional surfactant(s) in the composition is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0064] (Cationic Polymer)
[0065] The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one cationic polymer. A single type of cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.
[0066] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 meq / g tol5 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 meq / g to 10 meq / g.
[0067] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the cationic polymer be 1000 or more, preferably 2000 or more, more preferably 3000 or more, and even more preferably 4000 or more. Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means a number average molecular weight.
[0068] The cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group, and a pyridyl group. The term (primary) “amino group” here means a group of -NH2.
[0069] The cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term “copolymer” is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers which are in turn obtained from three kinds of monomers.
[0070] The cationic polymer may be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polymers, and preferably from natural cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of the cationic polymers are as follows.
[0071] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters and amides and comprising at least one unit chosen from units of the following formulas: wherein: Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for instance, methyl and ethyl groups;
[0072] R3, which may be identical or different, is chosen from hydrogen and CH3; the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0073] R , R5, and Rg, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulphate anions and halides, for instance chloride and bromide.
[0074] The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which may be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with (C1-C4) lower alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0075] Examples of copolymers of family (1) include, but are not limited to: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylamino ethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 0 080 976, copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, quaternized or nonquaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, described, for example, in French Patent Nos. 2 077 143 and 2 393 573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, and crosslinked methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salt polymers such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing an olefinic unsaturation, for example, methylenebisacrylamide.
[0076] (2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French Patent No. 1 492 597, such as the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the
[0077] CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
[0078] It is preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer have at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkyl ammonium group, and more preferably a quaternary trimethyl ammonium group.
[0079] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium group- containing group which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I): wherein each of Ri and R2 denotes a C1-3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,
[0080] R3 denotes a C1-24 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably methyl group,
[0081] X' denotes an anion, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride, n denotes an integer from 0-30, preferably 0-10, and more preferably 0, and R4 denotes a C1-4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.
[0082] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in the above chemical formula (I) can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.
[0083] It is preferable that the quaternary ammonium group-containing group be -O-CH2-CH(OH)- CH2-N+(CH3)3.
[0084] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer of quaternary ammonium, and described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt chosen from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium salts.
[0085] Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products sold under the name "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the company National Starch.
[0086] (4) Non-cellulose-based cationic polysaccharides described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid, and dextran hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example the chloride, of 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) may also be used.
[0087] Such products are sold, for instance, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® Cl 5, JAGUAR® Cl 7, and JAGUAR® Cl 62 by the company MEYHALL.
[0088] (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity chosen from oxygen, sulphur, nitrogen, aromatic rings, and heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patent Nos. 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
[0089] (6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides possibly being crosslinked with an entity chosen from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyidiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with an entity chosen from bishalohydrins, bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyldiamines, bisalkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides, and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides optionally being alkylated or, if they comprise at least one tertiary amine function, they may be quaternized. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patent Nos. 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
[0090] (7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. Such polymers are described, for instance, in French Patent No. 1 583 363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be chosen from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl di ethylenetriamine polymers .
[0091] (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of the polyalkylene polyamine to the dicarboxylic acid may range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Such polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
[0092] (9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallyl-ammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one unit chosen from units of formulas (la) and (lb):
[0093] (lb) wherein: k and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1 ;
[0094] R12 is chosen from hydrogen and methyl groups;
[0095] Rio and Rn, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and lower (Ci-C4)amidoalkyl groups, or Rio and Rn may form, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; and
[0096] Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate, and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.
[0097] In one embodiment, Rio and Rn, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0098] Examples of such polymers include, but are not limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride such as the dimethyidiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by the company CALGON (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550".
[0099] (10) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II): wherein:
[0100] Rn, RM, R15, and Ri6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups, or alternatively R13, R14, R15, and Ri6 may form, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15, and Ri6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl groups substituted with at least one group chosen from nitrile groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-R17-E groups, and -CO-NH-R17-E groups, wherein R17 is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0101] Ai and Bi, which may be identical or different, are chosen from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may comprise, linked or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity chosen from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulphur, sulphoxide groups, sulphone groups, disulphide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups, and ester groups, and
[0102] X" is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; Ai, R13, and Ris may form, together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; if Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi may be chosen from:
[0103] -(CH2)n-CO-E’-OC-(CH2)n- wherein E' is chosen from: a) glycol residues of formula -O-Z-O-, wherein Z is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the following formulas:
[0104] -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2-
[0105] - [CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- wherein x and y, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization; b) bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives; c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and the divalent group -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;and d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
[0106] In at least one embodiment, X' is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
[0107] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French Patent Nos. 2 320 330; 2 270 846;
[0108] 2 316 271; 2 336 434; and 2 413 907 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945; and 4,027,020.
[0109] Non-limiting examples of such polymers include those comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (III): wherein
[0110] R13, Ri4, R15, and Rig, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X' is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
[0111] (11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV): wherein:
[0112] Ri8, R19, R20, and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen, methyl groups, ethyl groups, propyl groups, p-hydroxyethyl groups, P-hydroxypropyl groups, - CEECH^OCHbCIDpOH groups, wherein p is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20, and R21 are not simultaneously hydrogen, r and s, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6, q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34, X' is an anion such as a halide, and
[0113] A is chosen from radicals of dihalides and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0114] Such compounds are described, for instance, in European Patent Application No. 0 122 324.
[0115] (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole.
[0116] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units chosen from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes, and chitin derivatives.
[0117] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for instance, the homo-polymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by the company CALGON, guar gums modified with a 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole.
[0118] (13) Polyamines
[0119] As the cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which may be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or a pendent group, if present, of the (co)polyamines.
[0120] As an example of the (co)polyamines, mention may be made of chitosan, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)poly dimethylaminoethylenemethacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-l- methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co) polyethyleneimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quatemary pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyomithines, (co)polyarginines, (co)polyhistidines, amino dextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinylacetals, and salts thereof. As the (co)polyamines, it may be preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is also well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, poly lysine can be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte which is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine can be in salt and / or solution form.
[0121] (14) Cationic Polyaminoacids
[0122] As the cationic polymer, it may be possible use cationic polyaminoacids, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or a pendent group, if present, of the cationic polyaminoacids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendent group, if present, of the cationic polyaminoacids.
[0123] As examples of the cationic polyaminoacids, mention may be made of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, steardimoium hydroxyprolyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.
[0124] The following descriptions relate to preferable embodiments of the (a) cationic polymer.
[0125] It is preferable that the (a) cationic polymer be selected from the group consisting of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyaminoacids such as cationized collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, and salts thereof.
[0126] It is more preferable that the (a) cationic polymer be selected from chitosans.
[0127] It is preferable that the chitosan have a molecular weight (Da) of more than 20,000, preferably more than 50,000, and more preferably more than 80,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.
[0128] The molecular weight (Da) of the chitosan may be less than 1 ,000,000, preferably less than 500,000, and more preferably less than 300,000.
[0129] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the chitosan may be more than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably more than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and more preferably more than 80,000 and less than 300,000.
[0130] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means a weight average molecular weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by a gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.
[0131] Chitosan is very uncommon in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, zygomycetes. Chitosan may be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a type 0 bond (1,4).
[0132] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of 0-D-gl ucosamine monomers connected by a glycosidic bond (1— 4).
[0133] "Chitosan" according to the present invention means any copolymer formed of constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, whose degree of acetylation is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N- acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by 0 type bonds (1,4) and is a polymer of the Poly (N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly (D-glucosamine) type.
[0134] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.
[0135] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the number of total units, it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by titration by a strong base.
[0136] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.
[0137] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the Ascomycete type, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.
[0138] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably is of nonGMO origin.
[0139] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say that it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.
[0140] One method of preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.
[0141] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in a powder form. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example, Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.
[0142] The amount of the (al) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] The amount of the cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] (Fatty Acid)
[0145] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty acid. If two or more fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.
[0146] The term “fatty acid” here means a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.
[0147] The (b) fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. The (b) fatty acid may comprise up to 24 carbon atoms, preferably up to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 20 carbon atoms. It is preferable that the (b) fatty acid be selected from C6-C24 fatty acid, more preferably C6-C22 fatty acid, and even more preferably C8-C20 fatty acid.
[0148] The (b) fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (b) fatty acid may be selected from C4-C24, preferably C6-C22, more preferably C8-C20 saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids.
[0149] As the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, mono-unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids may be used. As the unsaturated moiety of the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be mentioned.
[0150] As the saturated fatty acid, mention may be made of, for example, caprylic acid (Cs), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), pentadecanoic acid (Ci 5), palmitic acid (Cie), heptadecanoic acid (C17), stearic acid (Cis), isostearic acid (Cis), nonadecanoic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24).
[0151] As the unsaturated fatty acid, mention may be made of, for example, myristoleic acid (C14), palmitoleic acid (Cie), oleic acid (Cis), linoleic acid (Cis), linolenic acid (Cis), elaidic acid (Cis), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22), and nervonic acid (C24).
[0152] In one embodiment, it is preferable that the (b) fatty acid be selected from Cs-Cis saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, and more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0153] The (b) fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or in the form of a salt thereof. As a salt of the fatty acid, mention may be made of an inorganic salt such as an alkali metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a calcium salt, or the like); and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different type of fatty acid salts may be used. Further, a combination of one or more fatty acid in the form of a free acid and one or more fatty acid in the form of a salt may be used, in which one or more type of salts may also be used.
[0154] It is preferable that the (b) fatty acid be selected from C4-C22, preferably C6-C20, more preferably Cs-Cis saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids.
[0155] The amount of the (b) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, r elative to the total weight of the composition.
[0156] The amount of the (b) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0157] The amount of the (b) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0158] (Non-Cellulose-Based Nonionic Polysaccharide)
[0159] The composition according to the present invention includes (c) at least one non-cellulose- based nonionic polysaccharide. A single type of non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide may be used, or two or more different types of non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharides may be used in combination.
[0160] The non-cellulose-based polysaccharide here means polysaccharides which are not derived from cellulose. Thus, cellulose and derivatives thereof such as polyquaternium-10 are not within the scope of the non-cellulose-based polysaccharide.
[0161] The non-cellulose-based polysaccharide may have a linear or branched structure, preferably a linear structure.
[0162] The non-cellulose-based polysaccharide may be a homo-polysaccharide comprising a single type of monosaccharide or a hetero-polysaccharide comprising two or more different types of monosaccharide.
[0163] It is preferable that the non-cellulose-based polysaccharide be biodegradable. The term “biodegradable” means that the non-cellulose-based polysaccharide can be degraded or decomposed in environments or in or on a living body due to, for example, the metabolism by the microorganisms which may be present in environments or in or on the living body. Also, the biodegradable non-cellulose-based polysaccharide may be degraded by hydrolysis.
[0164] It is preferable that the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide be derived from natural resources such as plants and microorganisms.
[0165] As the non-cellulose based nonionic polysaccharide derived from plants, mention may be made of: modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, com or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, mannans, glucomannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, xyloglucans, arabinogalactans, agar, locust bean gums or carob gums, tamarind seed gum, dextrin, galactomannans, such as tara gum, guar gums, and nonionic derivatives thereof (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof
[0166] Among the starches that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elemental moieties that are anhydro glucose units. The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and also their degree of polymerization, can vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches.
[0167] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches can be, for example, chosen from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
[0168] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder which is insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.
[0169] The starches may optionally be Ci-Cg hydroxyalkylated or Ci-Ce acylated (such as acetylated). The starches may also have undergone heat treatments.
[0170] The guar gums may be modified or unmodified.
[0171] The modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0172] Among hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxy ethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0173] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such aspropylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
[0174] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.
[0175] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP- 120, and Jaguar HP-120 by the company Solvay.
[0176] It is more preferable that the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide be selected from those derived from microorganisms, which may be referred to as nonionic “biopolysaccharides”.
[0177] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms or biopolysaccharide means a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria. The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms may be produced by fermentation of sugars via microorganisms.
[0178] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms may contain units chosen from mannose, glucose, galactose, rhamnose, and mixtures thereof. The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms may be optionally chemically modified.
[0179] As examples of the nonionic biopolysaccharide, mention may be made of cardo Ilan, jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0180] It is preferable that the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide be selected from nonionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms.
[0181] It is more preferable that the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide be selected from cardollan, jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
[0182] It is even more preferable that the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide be selected from glucans, preferably a-glucans, and more preferably dextran and pullulan.
[0183] The amount of the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0184] The amount of the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0185] The amount of the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0186] (Oil)
[0187] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oil. If two or more (d) oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0188] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0189] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0190] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0191] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof. The examples of plant oils can also include butters derived from plants. Among the butters derived from plants, mention may be made of: shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter.
[0192] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0193] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0194] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0195] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0196] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0197] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0198] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0199] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0200] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0201] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0202] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0203] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmito stearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0204] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
[0205] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methyl glucose dioleate.
[0206] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0207] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate) .
[0208] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0209] Preferably, silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0210] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0211] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0212] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0213] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula: with D" : — Si - O — and with D' : - Si - o
[0214] CH3C8H17
[0215] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1 ’ -bis(2,2,2’ ,2 ’,3,3’ -hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0216] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0'6m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
[0217] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of poly dimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0218] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; and the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF
[0219] 18) from General Electric. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
[0220] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0221] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula: in which
[0222] Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is not 0.
[0223] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0224] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.
[0225] The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
[0226] Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0227] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0228] The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
[0229] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0230] As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0231] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0232] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C - C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
[0233] The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
[0234] As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0235] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.
[0236] It is preferable that the (d) oil be selected from plant oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from plant oils.
[0237] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0239] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0240] (Polyol)
[0241] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) at least one polyol. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0242] The term “polyol” here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxyl groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxyl groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
[0243] The (e) polyol may be a C2-C8 polyol, preferably a C3-C6 polyol, and more preferably a C3-C5 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxyl groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups, and more preferably 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.
[0244] The (e) polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0245] The (e) polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.
[0246] The (e) polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, propanediol such as 1,3 -propanediol, penanediol such as 1,5 -pentanediol, and polyethyleneglycol (having, for example, from 5 to 50 ethyleneoxide groups).
[0247] The (e) polyol may be selected from triols and diols, and more preferably diols. Examples of trial include glycerin. Examples of diols include propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
[0248] It is preferable that the (e) polyol be selected from C3-C6 polyols, preferably from C3-C6 polyols having two or five hydroxyl groups, and more preferably from C3-C6 polyols having two or three hydroxyl groups.
[0249] It is more preferable that the (e) polyol be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and a mixture thereof. The amount of the (e) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1 % by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0250] The amount of the (e) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0251] The amount of the (e) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight or less, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0252] (Surfactant)
[0253] The composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one optional surfactant.
[0254] The term “at least one optional surfactant” means that the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant or may not comprise any surfactant.
[0255] The (f) surfactant, as an optional ingredient, may be selected from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.
[0256] If the composition according to the present invention includes at least one surfactant, the amount of the surfactant(s) is very limited in view of environmental friendliness.
[0257] If the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant, the amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0258] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises no surfactant.
[0259] (Water)
[0260] The composition according to the present invention may comprises (g) water.
[0261] The (g) water can form an aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention.
[0262] The amount of the (g) water may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0263] The amount of the (g) water may be.90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0264] The amount of the (g) water may be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0265] (Monovalent Non-Polymeric Acid or Salt Thereof)
[0266] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be used, or two or more different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof may be used in combination.
[0267] The term “non-polymeric” here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers. Therefore, the non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers such as polyacrylic acids.
[0268] The term “salt” here means a salt formed by addition of suitable base(s) to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which may be obtained from a reaction with the monovalent non- polymeric acid with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As the salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example salts with alkaline metal such as Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metal such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0269] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof be less than 1000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 100 or less.
[0270] The (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may make the (a) cationic polymer be dissolved in (g) water if the (g) water is included in the composition according to the present invention.
[0271] The (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and salts thereof, preferably monovalent organic acids and salts thereof, and more preferably monovalent carboxylic acids and salts thereof.
[0272] The (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, and a mixture thereof.
[0273] The (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be selected from hydroxyl acids, and preferably alpha-hydroxy acids. As the alpha-hydroxy acids, mention may be made of, for example, lactic acid and glycolic acid.
[0274] The (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and more preferably lactic acid.
[0275] The amount of the (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0276] The amount of the (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0,01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0277] (PH)
[0278] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.3 to 8.5, and more preferably from 3.5 to 8.
[0279] At a pH of from 3 to 9, the composition according to the present invention can be very stable.
[0280] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, other than the (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0281] (Alkaline Agent)
[0282] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0283] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of ammonia; alkaline metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkaline metal phosphates and monohydrogenophosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0284] As examples of the inorganic alkaline metal hydroxides, mention may be made of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. As examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, mention may be made of calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As an inorganic alkaline agent, sodium hydroxide is preferable.
[0285] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; oligomers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; polymers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.
[0286] As examples of the organic alkaline agents, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:
[0287] R1 R3
[0288] R2 R4 wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci- C4 alkyl radical, and Ri, R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3 -propanediamine and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferable.
[0289] The alkaline agent(s) may be used in a total amount of from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
[0290] (Acid)
[0291] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0292] As the acid, mention may be made of any inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic acids, which are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as HC1. A polyvalent acid may be used.
[0293] The acid(s) may be used in a total amount of from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
[0294] (Buffering Agent)
[0295] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one buffering agent. Two or more buffering agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of buffering agent or a combination of different types of buffering agents may be used.
[0296] As the buffering agent, mention may be made of an acetate buffer (for example, acetic acid + sodium acetate), a phosphate buffer (for example, sodium dihydrogen phosphate + di-sodium hydrogen phosphate), a citrate buffer (for example, citric acid + sodium citrate), a borate buffer (for example, boric acid + sodium borate), a tartrate buffer (for example, tartaric acid + sodium tartrate dihydrate), Tris buffer (for example, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane), and a Hepes buffer (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-l -piperazineethanesulfonic acid).
[0297] (Optional Ingredients)
[0298] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredient typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived from, for example, synthetic polymers other than the (a) cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; nonionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives other than the (d) oil; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables other than the (d) oil; waxes; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0299] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of synthetic thickener(s) and / or organic solvent(s) in view of environmental friendliness.
[0300] The amount of the synthetic thickener(s) and / or organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes no synthetic thickener or no organic solvent.
[0301] (Preparation)
[0302] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0303] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0304] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. Also, heating is not necessary. Therefore, the process for preparing the composition according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.
[0305] (Application)
[0306] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin material. Keratin material here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process for the keratin material, in particular skin.
[0307] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a skin care composition.
[0308] (Form)
[0309] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not limited.
[0310] If the composition according to the present invention is combined with or comprises (g) water, the (d) oil can form fatty phase(s), the (g) water can form aqueous phase(s), and the fatty phases can be dispersed in the aqueous phase or vice versa. Thus, in one embodiment, the aqueous phase can function as a continuous phase, and the fatty phase can function as a dispersed phase. In another embodiment, the oil phase can function as a continuous phase, and the aqueous phase can function as a dispersed phase.
[0311] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W, W / O or multi-phase (e.g., O / W / O and O / W / O) dispersion or emulsion, preferably an O / W or W / O dispersion or emulsion, and more preferably an O / W dispersion or emulsion when being combined with (g) water.
[0312] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise:
[0313] (1) an aqueous phase; and
[0314] (2) fatty phases, wherein the (2) fatty phases can be dispersed in the (1) aqueous phase.
[0315] The (1) aqueous phase can function as a continuous phase, while the (2) fatty phases can function as discontinuous phases. In this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W dispersion such as an O / W emulsion. If the composition according to the present invention can be of the O / W type, it can provide a fresh sensation due to the aqueous phase including water which forms the outer phase thereof.
[0316] The (1) aqueous phase may comprise the (a) cationic polymer, the (c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide, the (e) polyol, and the (g) water. The (1) aqueous phase may also comprise the (h) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof.
[0317] The amount of the (1) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 55% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0318] On the other hand, the amount of the (1) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0319] Accordingly, the amount of the (1) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 45% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0320] The (2) fatty phases may comprise the (d) oil, and the (b) fatty acid.
[0321] The amount of the (2) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0322] On the other hand, the amount of the (2) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 55% by weight or less, preferably 50% by weight or less, and more preferably 45% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0323] Accordingly, the amount of the (2) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention may range from 5% to 55% by weight, preferably from 15% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 25% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0324] In the above preferable embodiment, the (d) oil may be surrounded by a plurality of the (a) cationic polymers or a complex of the (a) cationic polymer(s) and the (b) fatty acid(s), or the (d) oil may be present in the hollow of a capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymer(s) or the complex. In other words, the (d) oil may be covered by the (a) cationic polymer(s) or the above complex, or a capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymer (s) and the above complex includes the (d) oil in the hollow of the capsule.
[0325] The (d) oil which is surrounded by the (a) cationic polymer(s) or the above complex, or present in the hollow of the capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymer(s) or the above complex cannot directly make contact with a keratin material such as skin. Thus, even if the (d) oil has a sticky or greasy feeling of use, the composition according to the present invention would not provide a sticky or greasy feeling of use.
[0326] [Film]
[0327] The composition according to the present invention can be used for preparing a film.
[0328] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, comprising: applying onto a substrate, preferably a keratin material, more preferably skin, the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition.
[0329] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention may be 1 mm or less, preferably 500 pm or less, more preferably 300 pm or less, and even more preferably 100 pm or less.
[0330] Since the process for preparing a film according to the present invention includes the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratin material, and more preferably skin, and of drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require any spin coating or spraying, and therefore, it is possible to easily prepare even a relatively thick film. Thus, the process for preparing a film according to present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as spin coaters and spraying machines.
[0331] Even if the film according to the present invention is relatively thick, it is still thin and may be transparent, and therefore, may not be easy to perceive. Thus, the film according to the present invention can be used preferably as a cosmetic film.
[0332] If the substrate is not a keratin material such as skin, the composition according to the present invention may be applied onto a substrate made from any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials may be used. In any event, it is preferable that the substrate be flexible or elastic.
[0333] If the substrate is not a keratin material, it is preferable that the substrate be water-soluble, because it is possible to leave the film according to the present invention by washing the substrate with water. As examples of the water-soluble materials, mention may be made of poly(meth) acrylic acids, polyethyleneglycols, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), starch, cellulose acetates, and the like. PVA is preferable. If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness of more than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to ease the handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but may be from 1 pm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 pm to 1 mm, and more preferably from 50 to 500 pm.
[0334] It is more preferable that the film according to the present invention be releasable from the non-keratinous substrate. The mode of release is not limited. Therefore, the film according to the present invention may be peeled from the non-keratinous substrate, or released by the dissolution of the substrate sheet into a solvent such as water.
[0335] The present invention may also relate to:
[0336] (1) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, prepared by a process comprising: applying onto a substrate, preferably a keratin material, and more preferably skin, the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition, and
[0337] (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, comprising:
[0338] (a) at least one cationic polymer,
[0339] (b) at least one fatty acid,
[0340] (c) at least one non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide,
[0341] (d) at least one oil,
[0342] (e) at least one polyol, and
[0343] (f) at least one optional surfactant.
[0344] The above explanations regarding the ingredients (a) to (f) for the composition according to the present invention can apply to those in the above films (1) and (2).
[0345] The film thus obtained above can be self- standing. The term “self-standing” here means that the film can be in the form of a sheet and can be handled as an independent sheet without the assistance of a substrate or support. Thus, the term “self-standing” may have the same meaning as “self-supporting”.
[0346] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be hydrophobic.
[0347] The term “hydrophobic” in the present specification means that the solubility of the film in water (preferably with a volume of 1 liter) at from 20 to 40°C, preferably from 25 to 40°C, and more preferably from 30 to 40°C is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the film. It is most preferable that the film is not soluble in water.
[0348] If the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic, the film can have water-resistant properties, and therefore, it can remain on a keratin material such as skin even if the surface of the keratin material is wet due to, for example, sweat and rain. Thus, when the film according to the present invention provides any cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect can last a long time. On the other hand, the film according to the present invention can be easily removed from a keratin material such as skin under alkaline conditions such as a pH of from 8 to 12, preferably from 9 to 11. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with a soap which can provide such alkaline conditions.
[0349] The film according to the present invention may comprise at least one biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer layer. Two or more biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used.
[0350] The term “biocompatible” polymer in the present specification means that the polymer does not have excess interaction between the polymer and cells in the living body including the skin, and the polymer is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.
[0351] The term “biodegradable” polymer in the present specification means that the polymer can be degraded or decomposed in a living body due to, for example, the metabolism of the living body itself or the metabolism of the microorganisms which may be present in the living body. Also, the biodegradable polymer can be degraded by hydrolysis.
[0352] If the film according to the present invention includes a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, it is less irritable or not irritable to the skin, and does not cause any rash. In addition, due to the use of a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, the cosmetic sheet according to the present invention can adhere well to the skin.
[0353] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratin materials, preferably skin, in particular the face. The film according to the present invention can be in any shape or form. For example, it can be used as a full-face mask sheet, or a patch for a part of the face such as the cheek, nose, and around the eyes.
[0354] [Cosmetic Process and Use]
[0355] The present invention also relates to: a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin material; or a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratin material such as skin.
[0356] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratin material such as skin.
[0357] In both the above process and use, the above cosmetic film can be resistant to water with a pH of 7 or less, and is removable with water with a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more.
[0358] In other words, the above cosmetic film can be water-resistant under neutral or acidic conditions such as a pH of 7 or less, preferably in a range of 6 or more and 7 or less, and more preferably in a range of 5 or more and 7 or less, while the above cosmetic film can be removed under alkaline conditions such as a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more. The upper limit of the pH is preferably 13, more preferably 12, and even more preferably 11.
[0359] Accordingly, the above cosmetic film can be water-resistant, and therefore, it can remain on a keratin material such as skin even if the surface of the keratin material is wet due to, for example, sweat and rain. On the other hand, the above cosmetic film can be easily removed from a keratin material such as skin under alkaline conditions. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with soap which can provide alkaline conditions.
[0360] As the above cosmetic film includes (d) at least one oil and (e) at least one polyol, the cosmetic film can provide cosmetic effects such as emollient effects and moisturizing effects due to the (d) oil and / or the (e) polyol.
[0361] If the above cosmetic film includes at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient other than the (d) oil or (e) polyol, the cosmetic film can have cosmetic effects provided by the additional cosmetic active ingredient(s). For example, if the cosmetic film includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from anti-aging agents, anti-sebum agents, deodorant agents, anti-perspirant agents, whitening agents and a mixture thereof, the cosmetic film can treat the aging of the skin, absorbing sebum on the skin, controlling odors on the skin, controlling perspiration on the skin, and / or whitening of the skin. If the above cosmetic film includes a UV filter, the above cosmetic film can protect a keratin material such as skin from UV rays, thereby limiting the darkening of the skin, improving the colour and uniformity of the complexion, and / or treating aging of the skin.
[0362] Furthermore, the above cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects such as capturing sebum, matting the appearance of a keratin substrate such as skin, absorbing or adsorbing malodour, and / or protecting the keratin material from, for example, dirt or pollutant, due to the properties of the cosmetic film, even if the cosmetic film does not include any cosmetic active ingredient.
[0363] In addition, the above cosmetic film may immediately change or modify the appearance of the skin by changing light reflection on the skin and the like, even if the cosmetic film does not include any cosmetic active ingredient. Therefore, it may be possible for the above cosmetic film to conceal skin defects such as pores or wrinkles. Further, the above cosmetic film may immediately change or modify the feel to the touch of the skin by changing the surface roughness on the skin and the like. Furthermore, the above cosmetic film may immediately protect the skin by covering the surface of the skin and shielding the skin, as a barrier, from environmental stresses such as pollutants, contaminants and the like.
[0364] The above cosmetic effects can be adjusted or controlled by changing the chemical composition, the thickness and / or the surface roughness of the above cosmetic film.
[0365] It is also possible to apply a makeup cosmetic composition onto the cosmetic film or sheet according to the present invention after it has been applied onto the skin.
[0366] The present invention also relates to a use of (c) at least one non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide, in a composition, comprising:
[0367] (a) at least one cationic polymer;
[0368] (b) at least one fatty acid;
[0369] (d) at least one oil; and
[0370] (e) at least one polyol, wherein the composition also comprises (f) at least one optional surfactant in an amount of is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in order for the composition to be stable and capable of a film which has improved resistance to rubbing.
[0371] The above explanations regarding the ingredients (a) to (f) for the composition according to the present invention can apply to those in the above use.
[0372] EXAMPLES
[0373] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0374] Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2
[0375] [Preparations]
[0376] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 -2 was prepared by simply mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The preparation was performed at room temperature without heating. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
[0377] Table 1
[0378] [Evaluations]
[0379] (Stability)
[0380] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was stored in a transparent vessel at room temperature for one day. The stability of the compositions was visually observed and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0381] Good: The composition was uniform.
[0382] Fair: The composition was uniform, but slight unevenness was observed. Poor: The composition was not uniform, and unevenness was observed.
[0383] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0384] (Anti-Rubbing Property)
[0385] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 in the same amount was applied onto an artificial skin (Bioskin from Beaulax) and spread homogeneously with a finger. The coated artificial skins were left at room temperature for 30 minutes for drying. Then, the surface of the coated artificial skins was rubbed 3 times with a fabric cotton linter knit. The rubbed surface of the coated artificial skin was observed under a microscope to determine the surface roughness (arithmetical mean height) of the coated artificial skin, and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0386] Good: Surface roughness change ratio is less than 3
[0387] Fair: Surface roughness change ratio is between 3 and 6 Poor: Surface roughness ratio is more than 6.
[0388] Surface Roughness Change Ratio: Surface roughness after rubbing / surface roughness before rubbing
[0389] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0390] (Hydration)
[0391] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 in the same amount was applied onto the skin of a human subject who was acclimated for 30 minutes in a room maintained at 25 °C and spread homogeneously with a finger.
[0392] The moisture in the skin was measured by a cornermeter CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka). The results were categorized in accordance with the following criteria.
[0393] Good: 40 or more
[0394] Poor: Less than 40
[0395] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0396] (Summary)
[0397] The composition according to Example 1 which included a cationic polymer (chitosan), a fatty acid (isostearic acid), a non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide (pullulan), an oil (shea butter), and a polyol (glycerin) was stable and provided a film with good resistance to rubbing and good hydration effects. The composition according to Comparative Example 1 which included a cationic polymer (chitosan), a fatty acid (isostearic acid), an oil (shea butter), and a polyol (glycerin), but did not include a non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide was stable and provided good hydration effects, but provided a film with poor resistance to rubbing.
[0398] The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which included a cationic polymer (chitosan), a fatty acid (isostearic acid), and an oil (shea butter), but did not include a non- cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide or a polyol was stable, but could not provide a film with good resistance to rubbing and good hydration effects.
[0399] Example 2 and Comparative Example 3
[0400] [Preparations]
[0401] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 3 was prepared by simply mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The preparation was performed at room temperature without heating. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 2 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
[0402] Table 2
[0403] [Evaluations]
[0404] (Stability)
[0405] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 3 was stored in a transparent vessel at room temperature for one day. The stability of the compositions was visually observed and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0406] Good: The composition was uniform.
[0407] Fair: The composition was uniform, but slight unevenness was observed.
[0408] Poor: The composition was not uniform, and unevenness was observed.
[0409] The results are shown in Table 2. (Anti-Rubbing Property)
[0410] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 3 in the same amount was applied onto an artificial skin (Bioskin from Beaulax) and spread homogeneously with a finger. The coated artificial skins were left at room temperature for 30 minutes for drying. Then, the surface of the coated artificial skins was rubbed 3 times with a fabric cotton linter knit. The rubbed surface of the coated artificial skin was observed under a microscope to determine the surface roughness (arithmetical mean height) of the coated artificial skin, and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0411] Good: Surface roughness change ratio is less than 15
[0412] Fair: Surface roughness change ratio is between 15 and 18 Poor: Surface roughness ratio is more than 18.
[0413] Surface Roughness Change Ratio: Surface roughness after rubbing / surface roughness before rubbing
[0414] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0415] (Elydration)
[0416] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 3 in the same amount was applied onto the skin of a human subject who was acclimated for 30 minutes in a room maintained at 25°C and spread homogeneously with a finger.
[0417] The moisture in the skin was measured by a cornermeter CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka). The results were categorized in accordance with the following criteria.
[0418] Good: 40 or more
[0419] Poor: Less than 40
[0420] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0421] (Summary)
[0422] The composition according to Example 2 which included a cationic polymer (chitosan), a fatty acid (isostearic acid), a non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide (pullulan), an oil (shea butter), and a polyol (glycerin) was stable and provided a film with good resistance to rubbing and good hydration effects.
[0423] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 which included a cationic polymer (chitosan), a fatty acid (isostearic acid), an oil (shea butter), and a polyol (glycerin), but did not include a non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide was stable and provided good hydration effects, but provided a film with poor resistance to rubbing.
[0424] Example 3 and Comparative Examples 4-6
[0425] [Preparations]
[0426] Each of the compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 4-6 was prepared by simply mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3. The preparation was performed at room temperature without heating. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 3 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
[0427] Table 3
[0428] NA: Not Available
[0429] [Evaluations]
[0430] (Stability)
[0431] Each of the compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 4-6 was stored in a transparent vessel at room temperature for one day. The stability of the compositions was visually observed and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0432] Good: The composition was uniform.
[0433] Fair: The composition was uniform, but slight unevenness was observed. Poor: The composition was not uniform, and unevenness was observed.
[0434] The results are shown in Table 3.
[0435] (Anti-Rubbing Property)
[0436] Each of the compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 4-6 in the same amount was applied onto an artificial skin (Bioskin from Beaulax) and spread homogeneously with a finger. The coated artificial skins were left at room temperature for 30 minutes for drying. Then, the surface of the coated artificial skins was rubbed 3 times with a fabric cotton linter knit. The rubbed surface of the coated artificial skin was observed under a microscope to determine the surface roughness (arithmetical mean height) of the coated artificial skin, and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0437] Good: Surface roughness change ratio is less than 3
[0438] Fair: Surface roughness change ratio is between 3 and 6 Poor: Surface roughness ratio is more than 6. Surface Roughness Change Ratio: Surface roughness after rubbing / surface roughness before rubbing
[0439] The results are shown in Table 3.
[0440] (Hydration)
[0441] Each of the compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 4-6 in the same amount was applied onto the skin of a human subject who was acclimated for 30 minutes in a room maintained at 25 °C and spread homogeneously with a finger.
[0442] The moisture in the skin was measured by a cornermeter CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka). The results were categorized in accordance with the following criteria.
[0443] Good: 40 or more
[0444] Poor: Less than 40
[0445] The results are shown in Table 3.
[0446] (Summary)
[0447] The composition according to Example 3 which included a cationic polymer (chitosan), a fatty acid (isostearic acid), a non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide (pullulan), an oil (shea butter), and a polyol (glycerin) was stable and provided a film with good resistance to rubbing and good hydration effects.
[0448] The composition according to Comparative Examples 4-6 which included a cationic polymer (chitosan), a fatty acid (isostearic acid), an oil (shea butter), and a polyol (glycerin), but did not include a non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide was stable and provided good hydration effects, but provided a film with poor resistance to rubbing. It should be noted that xanthan gum is an anionic polysaccharide because it includes a unit derived from glucuronic acid.
Claims
1. CLAIMS1. A composition, comprising:(a) at least one cationic polymer;(b) at least one fatty acid;(c) at least one non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide;(d) at least one oil;(e) at least one polyol; and(f) at least one optional surfactant, wherein the amount of the (f) optional surfactant(s) in the composition is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. The composition according to Claim 1 , wherein the (a) cationic polymer is hydrophobicized by the (b) fatty acid.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyaminoacids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, and salts thereof.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the(a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) fatty acid is selected from C4-C22, preferably C6-C20, more preferably Cs-Cis saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the(b) fatty acid(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) non- cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide is selected from nonionic polysaccharides derived from microorganism.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) non- cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of cardollan, jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the(c) non-cellulose-based nonionic polysaccharide(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (d) oil is selected from plant oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from plant oils.
11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the(d) oil(s) in the composition is from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the (e) polyol is selected from C3-C6 polyols, preferably from C3-C6 polyols having two to five hydroxyl groups, and more preferably from C3-C6 polyols having two or three hydroxyl groups.
13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the(e) polyol(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises (g) water.
15. A cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin material the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin material.
Citation Information
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