NEON fluorescent pigment - manufacturing process, composition, and cosmetic application
A powdered composition of dyes and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate addresses humidity issues in traditional pigments, offering improved brightening, anti-dull effects, and fluorescence in cosmetics.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- SENSIENT TECHNOLOGIES CORP (CHINA) LTD
- Filing Date
- 2025-10-29
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-07
AI Technical Summary
Traditional cosmetic pigments absorb humidity, leading to poor lasting effects and unsatisfactory sensory experiences, and fail to meet demands for long-lasting luminosity and unique lighting effects.
A powdered composition comprising a dye (0.01%-20% by weight) and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (80%-99.99% by weight) is produced by dissolving in ethanol, mixing, and heating to form a solid, which is then ground into a powder, providing improved hydrophobicity, dispersibility, and fluorescence.
The composition achieves better brightening, long-term anti-dull effects, and fluorescence, enhancing cosmetic products like lip gloss, lipstick, and foundation.
Smart Images

Figure PCTCN2025130991-FTAPPB-I100001 
Figure PCTCN2025130991-FTAPPB-I100002 
Figure PCTCN2025130991-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
NEON FLUORESCENT PIGMENT - MANUFACTURING PROCESS, COMPOSITION, AND COSMETIC APPLICATIONCROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION
[0001] This application relates to, incorporates by reference for all purposes, and claims priority to United States Application Serial Number 63 / 713,318, filed October 29, 2024, and entitled NEON FLUORESCENT PIGMENT-MANUFACTURING PROCESS, COMPOSITION AND COSMETIC APPLICATION.BACKGROUND
[0002] In recent years there has been an increasing demand for new pigments with bright, vivid shades that are easy to disperse and use in formulations. These pigments should be long-lasting not only with good hydrophobicity but also with persistent brightening and luminosity when used in cosmetics. The traditionally defined lake is based on water-soluble dye composites on alumina, blanc fixe, gloss white, clay, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, talc, rosin, aluminum benzoate, calcium carbonate, or any combination thereof which can provide the desired bright, vivid shades. However, these traditional compositions easily absorb humidity from the environment, leading to poor lasting effects or a poor skin sensory experience (e.g., tacky skin feeling) . Traditional compositions also cannot meet new demand trends: either unique luminosity under specific lighting for younger generation consumers or long-lasting luminosity and anti-dull effects in a cosmetic formulation, especially in a foundation.SUMMARY
[0003] In some aspects, the techniques described herein relate to a powdered composition including: a dye in an amount by weight of between 0.01%and 20.0%of the total weight of the powdered composition; and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate in an amount by weight of between 80.0%and 99.99%of the total weight of the powdered composition.
[0004] In some aspects, the techniques described herein relate to a method of making a powdered composition, the method including: dissolving a dye and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate into an ethanol solution to produce a composition solution; mixing the composition solution until homogeneous to produce a homogeneous composition solution; elevating temperature of the homogeneous composition solution for a heating length of time to produce a solidified composition; and reducing the solidified composition into a powder to produce the powdered composition, wherein the powdered composition includes the dye in an amount by weight of between 0.01%and 20.0%of the total weight of the powdered composition and the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate in an amount by weight of between 80.0%and 99.9%of the total weight of the powdered composition.
[0005] These and other systems, methods, objects, features, and advantages of the present disclosure will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed description of the preferred embodiment and the drawings.
[0006] All documents mentioned herein are hereby incorporated in their entirety by reference. References to items in the singular should be understood to include items in the plural, and vice versa, unless explicitly stated otherwise or clear from the text. Grammatical conjunctions are intended to express any and all disjunctive and conjunctive combinations of conjoined clauses, sentences, words, and the like, unless otherwise stated or clear from the context.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0007] Non-limiting embodiments of the present invention will be described by way of example with reference to the accompanying figures, which are schematic and are not intended to be drawn to scale. In the figures, each identical or nearly identical component illustrated is typically represented by a single numeral. For purposes of clarity, not every component is labeled in every figure, nor is every component of each embodiment of the invention shown where illustration is not necessary to allow those of ordinary skill in the art to understand the invention.
[0008] The patent or application file contains at least one drawing executed in color. Copies of this patent or patent application publication with color drawing (s) will be provided by the Office upon request and payment of the necessary fee.
[0009] Fig. 1 shows no-fluorescent effect powder (left) and neon pigment (right) under D65 light (top) and UV light (bottom) .
[0010] Fig. 2 is a graph showing whiteness L*average values in NPDA0006-1-01 foundation base at T0 (left) and T4h (right) .
[0011] Fig. 3 shows the color differences at T0 (left) and T4h (right) of various formulations with NPDA006-1-01 foundation base.
[0012] Fig. 4 shows lipsticks made with Red 28 Al lake (i) , neon Red 28 pigment (ii) , and market fluorescent pigment (iii) in different scenarios. Fig. 4A) as lipsticks, Fig. 4B) on skin, and Fig. 4C) under UV light.DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0013] Before the present disclosure is described in further detail, it is to be understood that the disclosure is not limited to the embodiments described. It is also understood that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting. As used herein, the singular forms "a" , "an" , and "the" include plural embodiments unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.
[0014] It should be apparent to those skilled in the art that many additional modifications beside those already described are possible without departing from the inventive concepts. In interpreting this disclosure, all terms should be interpreted in the broadest possible manner consistent with the context. Variations of the term "comprising" or "including" should be interpreted as referring to elements, components, or steps in a non-exclusive manner, so the referenced elements, components, or steps may be combined with other elements, components, or steps that are not expressly referenced. When two or more ranges for a particular value are recited, this disclosure contemplates all combinations of the upper and lower bounds of those ranges that are not explicitly recited. For example, recitation of a value of between 1 and 10 or between 2 and 9 also contemplates a value of between 1 and 9 or between 2 and 10. All ranges are inclusive of the upper and lower value.
[0015] Cosmetics are generally used to alter or improve the external appearance of the user, particularly on the skin and face. As used herein, the term “cosmetics” or “cosmetic composition” may mean a formulation product applied to the face, skin, and / or nails to improve features, alter appearance, or hide imperfections. It is important for cosmetics applied to the skin or face to have a good sensory experience, strong staying power, and a consistent color that persists over many hours. Bright, neon cosmetics sufficient for multiple hour wear are difficult to produce as colors break down or otherwise undergo undesirable processes, resulting in a dull or different appearance when compared to immediately after application.
[0016] The ability to spread evenly when applying to the skin without abrasion and without feeling of roughness is crucial. The sensation of abrasion and roughness is responsible for physical irritation and causes roughness of the skin and skin inflammation. Affinity is classified in the criteria of finishing of the cosmetic products allowing to obtain a lightness of charge on the skin, a sensation and a soft application and a great safety. Cosmetic products are usually prepared by mixing basic formulations, and in particular pigment compositions which make it possible to give the cosmetic product the desired color. Thus, pigment compositions not only soft to the touch but also having a good affinity with the skin are sought.
[0017] Some macroscopic colored particles comprising dyes (coloring chemical substance soluble in the colored particle) have been described. However, their coloring contents are very low. Few macroscopic colored particles comprising a pigment (powdery and insoluble coloring chemical substance) are known, and their pigment contents are extremely low, which makes them unsuitable for use as a makeup composition. In addition, these low pigments contents are such that the corresponding cosmetic products have unsatisfactory properties in terms of coverage.
[0018] Current efforts are exploring new substrates utilizing water-soluble dyes on a composite, achieving either a more vivid shade or a new optical effect. In this present invention, compositing pyranine dyes (e.g., Green 8 (CI 59040) ) or bromo acid dyes (e.g., Red 27 (CI 45410) , Red 28 (CI 45410) , Orange 5 (CI 45370) , Red 21 (CI 45380) , and Red 22 (CI 45380) ) alone or combinations thereof on a hydrophobic starch substrate can show a more bright, vivid shade, good hydrophobicity, light and smooth texture, easy dispersibility, good fluorescent effect upon irradiation with light, and also provide the unique brightening, luminosity, and a better long-term anti-dull effect in a cosmetic application. This optimized composition leads to better performance and can be used in different cosmetic applications such as lip gloss, lipstick, loose powder, compact powder, foundation, concealer, nail polish, and more. There is significant interest in providing a new composite pigment with fluorescent effects under ultraviolet light for cosmetic applications, referred to hereinafter as “neon pigment” or the “powdered composition” .
[0019] As described herein, hydrophobic aluminum starch octenylsuccinate from natural sources is employed as a substrate. Different dyes such as pyranine dyes (e.g., Green 8 (CI 59040) ) or bromoacid dyes (e.g., Red 27 (CI 45410) , Red 28 (CI 45410) , Orange 5 (CI 45370) , Red 21 (CI 45380) , and Red 22 (CI 45380) ) alone or combinations thereof are composited on the substrate.
[0020] Powdered Compositions
[0021] As described herein, a powdered composition includes i) a dye in an amount by weight of between 0.01%and 20.0%of the total weight of the powdered composition and ii) aluminum starch octenylsuccinate in an amount by weight of between 80.0%and 99.99%of the total weight of the powdered composition. The dye may be present in an amount by weight of at least 0.01%, at least 0.02%, at least 0.03%, at least 0.04%, at least 0.05%, at least 0.06%, at least 0.07%, at least 0.08%, at least 0.09%, at least 0.10%, at least 0.15%, at least 0.2%, at least 0.3%, at least 0.4%at least 0.5%, at least 0.75%, at least 1.0%, at least 1.5%, at least 2.0%, at least 5.0%, or at least 10.0%of the total weight of the powdered composition. The dye may be present in an amount by weight of at most 20%, at most 18%, at most 16%, at most 14%, at most 12%, at most 10%, at most 8%, at most 6%, at most 4%, at most 3%, at most 2%, at most 1.0%, at most 0.95%, at most 0.90%, at most 0.85%, at most 0.80%, at most 0.75%, at most 0.70%, at most 0.60%, at most 0.50%, at most 0.40%, at most 0.30%, at most 0.25%, or at most 0.20%of the total weight of the powdered composition. The dye may be present in an amount between any one of the lower limits articulated in this paragraph and any articulated upper limit having a greater value.
[0022] The powdered composition may be hydrophobic. The powdered composition may fluoresce upon irradiation with ultraviolet (UV) light. The dye may be a neon pigment that fluoresces upon irradiation by UV light. The dye may be a pyranine dye, a bromoacid dye, or a combination thereof. Example pyranine dyes include Green 8 (CI 59040) . Example bromoacid dyes include Red 27 (CI 45410) , Red 28 (CI 45410) , Orange 5 (CI 45370) , Red 21 (CI 45380) and Red 22 (CI 45380) .
[0023] The powdered compositions have improved properties compared to comparison compositions, including providing good hydrophobicity, good dispersibility, a bright shade, fluorescent effect under ultraviolet light, unique brightening, luminosity, and improved long-term anti-dull effect.
[0024] Cosmetics
[0025] Cosmetics may be made using the powdered compositions described herein and have a nice light and smooth tactile feel when applied to skin. The cosmetics containing the powdered composition may fluoresce under UV light. The cosmetics may also have brighter shades and improved long-term anti-dull effects compared to comparison cosmetics that lack the powdered composition but are otherwise identical in composition. The cosmetics may be in powder form (e.g., loose powder or compact powder) , a dispersion in liquid (e.g., oil or silicone) , in solid form (e.g., a butter or wax) , or in emulsions, either “water in oil / wax / silicone” or “oil / wax / silicone in water” emulsions.
[0026] Exemplary cosmetic products include skin care products, lip gloss, lipstick, loose powder, compact powder, foundation, concealer, nail polish, eyeshadow, eyeliner, highlighter, concealer, sunscreen, tinted sunscreen, lip liner, lip tint, brow liner, and mascara.
[0027] Methods of Making
[0028] The powdered compositions described herein may be made by a method comprising the following steps. First, the dye and the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate are dissolved into an ethanol solution to produce a composition solution. The ethanol may be 75%ethanol. The composition solution is then mixed until homogenous to produce a homogenous composition solution. The temperature of the homogenous composition solution is then elevated for a heating length of time to produce a solidified composition. The solidified composition is then reduced into a powder to produce the powdered composition.
[0029] The powdered composition may have a particle size of between 500 nm and 100 μm, between 1 μm and 50 μm, between 1 μm and 30 μm, or between 10 μm and 100 μm. In some cases, the powdered composition has a particle size of at least 500 nm, at least 750 nm, at least 1 μm, at least 2 μm, at least 2.5 μm, at least 4 μm, at least 5 μm, at least 7.5 μm, at least 8 μm, at least 10 μm, at least 13 μm, at least 15 μm, at least 20 μm, at least 25 μm, at least 30 μm, at least 35 μm, at least 40 μm, at least 45 μm, or at least 50 μm. In some cases, the powdered composition has a particle size of at most 100 μm, at most 90 μm, at most 80 μm, at most 75 μm, at most 60 μm, at most 50 μm, at most 30 μm, at most 25 μm, at most 20 μm, at most 15 μm, at most 10 μm, or at most 5 μm. The powdered composition may have a particle size between any one of the lower limits articulated in this paragraph and any articulated upper limit having a greater value.
[0030] Reducing the powder may include grinding, milling, crushing, cutting, sonication, blending, or another method a skilled artisan sees fit to produce the desired particle size.
[0031] The method may include a further step of dispersing the powdered composition in a dispersal medium to make a dispersed powdered composition. This dispersed composition may be a cosmetic product or an ingredient within a cosmetic product. The dispersal medium may be a liquid (e.g., oil, water, silicone, or a combination thereof) , solid (e.g., a butter or wax) , or a combination thereof.
[0032] Improvements of Powdered Compositions
[0033] Many properties of the powdered compositions described herein are improved when compared to the dye alone, the hydrophobic starch substrate alone (aluminum starch octenylsuccinate) , and compositions with greater than 20%dye relative to the total weight of the powdered composition. Experimental details and specific data may be found in the Examples below. Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed by the inventors that the capability to achieve certain performance capabilities as described herein showed evidence of a synergistic effect in the inventive composition between the small amount of dye and the comparatively larger amount of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. The inventors unexpectedly discovered that certain performance characteristics, including excellent L*values and fluorescence, could be achieved by a composition that has less dye than a comparison composition. Typically, when the dye is the source of optical activity in a composition, such as when a dye is a source of fluorescence, the amount of optical activity that is present increases when the amount of dye is increased, but the inventors discovered the opposite in this situation, where a reduced amount of dye is capable of achieving superior optical performance.
[0034] L*values, Lab (also known as L*a*b*) values, and colors discussed herein relate to CIE color space measurements. Briefly, the inventors impressively discovered a powdered composition with better brightening (higher L*values) , better long-term anti-dull effect, brighter color, and improved fluorescence over comparison compositions. These effects are apparent both in the powdered composition made by the methods described herein and in cosmetic formulations with the powdered compositions incorporated. The effects are also visible in the powdered composition as made, in cosmetic formulations, and applied to skin. In cosmetic formulations, the improvements are visible both immediately after application of the cosmetic to skin and after several hours of wear.
[0035] The inventors discovered a compositional space where the brightening effects and fluorescence were unexpected based on the nature of the composition. The improvements noted in the Examples come from the combination of and proportions of the dye and the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, not simply one or the other. The aluminum starch octenylsuccinate is an important part of the composition, as comparison compositions using other substrates were not successful as detailed in the Examples.
[0036] All methods described herein can be performed in any suitable order unless otherwise indicated herein or otherwise clearly contradicted by context. The use of any and all examples, or exemplary language (e.g., “such as” ) provided herein, is intended merely to better illuminate the invention and does not pose a limitation on the scope of the invention unless otherwise claimed. No language in the specification should be construed as indicating any non-claimed element as essential to the practice of the invention.
[0037] All references, including publications, patent applications, and patents, cited herein are hereby incorporated by reference to the same extent as if each reference were individually and specifically indicated to be incorporated by reference and were set forth in its entirety herein.
[0038] Preferred aspects of this invention are described herein, including the best mode known to the inventors for carrying out the invention. Variations of those preferred aspects may become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art upon reading the foregoing description. The inventors expect a person having ordinary skill in the art to employ such variations as appropriate, and the inventors intend for the invention to be practiced otherwise than as specifically described herein. Accordingly, this invention includes all modifications and equivalents of the subject matter recited in the claims appended hereto as permitted by applicable law. Moreover, any combination of the above-described elements in all possible variations thereof is encompassed by the invention unless otherwise indicated herein or otherwise clearly contradicted by context.
[0039] While the invention has been illustrated and described in detail in the foregoing drawings and description, the same is to be considered as illustrative and not restrictive in character, it being understood that only illustrative embodiments thereof have been shown and described and that all changes and modifications that come within the spirit of the invention are desired to be protected. For example, any of the features or functions of any of the embodiments disclosed herein may be incorporated into any of the other embodiments disclosed herein.
[0040] The following examples illustrate some embodiments and aspects of the invention. It will be apparent to those skilled in the relevant art that various modifications, additions, substitutions, and the like can be performed without altering the spirit or scope of the invention, and such modifications and variations are encompassed within the scope of the invention as defined in the claims which follow. The following examples do not in any way limit the invention. EXAMPLES
[0041] Throughout these examples, the resulting compositions are identified as pigments. A skilled artisan will recognize the difference between dyes and pigments, and in the case of these examples, will recognize that the pigments that are generated by the examples contain dyes within them in the identified proportions.
[0042] Example 1: First Neon Red 28 Pigment
[0043] 0.4 g of Red 28 dye UNICERT RED K7054-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 19.6 g Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate COVAFLUID AMD by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine of a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was confirmed under D65 and UV light.
[0044] Example 2: Second Neon Red 28 Pigment
[0045] 0.2 g of Red 28 dye UNICERT RED K7054-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 19.8 g Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate COVAFLUID AMD by Sensient slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was confirmed under D65 and UV light.
[0046] Example 3: Third Neon Red 28 Pigment
[0047] 0.01 g of Red 28 dye UNICERT RED K7054-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 19.99 g Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate COVAFLUID AMD by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was confirmed under D65 and UV light.
[0048] Example 4: First Neon Green 8 Pigment
[0049] 0.0 1g of Green 8 dye UNICERT GREEN K7157-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 19.99 g Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate COVAFLUID AMD by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was confirmed under D65 and UV light.
[0050] Example 5: Second Neon Green 8 Pigment
[0051] 0.2 g of Green 8 dye UNICERT GREEN K7157-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 19.8 g Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate COVAFLUID AMD by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was confirmed under D65 and UV light.
[0052] Example 6: Third Neon Green 8 Pigment
[0053] 0.4 g of Green 8 dye UNICERT GREEN K7157-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 19.6 g Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate COVAFLUID AMD by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was confirmed under D65 and UV light.
[0054] Example 7: Neon Orange 5 Pigment
[0055] 0.2 g of Orange 5 dye UNICERT ORANGE K7003-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 19.8 g Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate COVAFLUID AMD by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was confirmed under D65 and UV light.
[0056] Comparative Example 1: No-Fluorescent Effect Red 28 Pigment
[0057] 0.4 g of Red 28 dye UNICERT RED K7054-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing 19.6 g Polymethylmethacrylate COVABEAD LH85 by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was absent under D65 and UV light.
[0058] Comparative Example 2: Second No-Fluorescent Effect Red 28 Pigment
[0059] 0.4 g of Red 28 dye UNICERT RED K7054-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g 75%ethanol and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 19.6 g Silica SENSIBEAD SI 320 by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was absent under D65 and UV light.
[0060] Comparative Example 3: Third No-Fluorescent Effect Red 28 Pigment
[0061] 4 g of Red 28 dye UNICERT RED K7054-J by Sensient was dissolved into 80 g water and mixed until homogenous. Under mixing, 16 g Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate COVAFLUID AMD by Sensient was added slowly and mixed until homogenous. The solution was put in a 45 ℃ oven overnight to get a solid mixture; then ground into as fine a powder as possible. The fluorescent effect was absent under D65 and UV light. Figure 1 shows Comparative 3 pigment compared to Example 1: First Neon Red 28 Pigment under D65 and UV light.
[0062] Hydrophobicity Evaluation
[0063] A product is hydrophobic when it does not display any affinity with water. Practically, a hydrophobic pigment in the presence of water does not mix with the liquid and floats on its surface.
[0064] In a 250 mL bottle, 200 mL of water and 1 g pigment were added, and the bottle was shaken vigorously. The pigment was not wetted and floated on the surface for 12 hours. If the pigment remains dry and on the surface of the water, it is hydrophobic and was noted as A. If the powder is completely wet and runs, the hydrophobicity is null and was noted B.
[0065] The composites formed from pyranine dyes (e.g., Green 8 (CI 59040) ) or bromo acid dyes (e.g., Red 27 (CI 45410) , Red 28 (CI 45410) , Orange 5 (CI 45370) , Red 21 (CI 45380) , and Red 22 (CI 45380) ) alone or combinations thereof with the substrate Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate formed neon pigments with good hydrophobicity, noted as A.
[0066] Dispersibility in Oil Evaluation
[0067] 40%powders were added into the 60%Caprylic / Capric Glycerides oil using a speed mixer at 2500 rpm for 1 min without glass beads in the mixing cup to check the homogeneity of the oil dispersion. Brighter shade and better homogeneity show easier dispersibility in oil.
[0068] The pyranine dyes (e.g., Green 8 (CI 59040) ) or bromo acid dyes (e.g., Red 27 (CI 45410) , Red 28 (CI 45410) , Orange 5 (CI 45370) , Red 21 (CI 45380) , and Red 22 (CI 45380) ) alone or combinations thereof with the substrate Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate formed neon pigments with good dispersibility in oil.
[0069] Green 8 Neon Pigment Brightening and Anti-Dull Effect Evaluation
[0070] Neon Green 8 pigment was also added into the oil base foundation and compared with a blank composed of the pure powder blend of green 8 dye &substrate Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate. The neon Green 8 pigment has a superior anti-dull effect in foundation on artificial skin compared to the blank.
[0071] Firstly, the foundation base NPDA006-1-01 was prepared shown in Table 1 below. NPDA006-1-01, which includes the blank foundation ( “blank” ) , foundation base with neon Green 8 pigment in oil phase ( “with neon Green 8 pigment in oil phase” ) , foundation base with pure Green 8 dye and Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate blended powder in oil phase ( “with dry blend of Green 8 dye and starch in oil phase” ) , and foundation base with Green 8 dye in water phase while Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate powder into oil phase separately (marked as “with Green 8 in water phase, starch in oil phase” ) . A plastic stencil was used to mark the areas (5 cm ×3 cm) and tape them down on the artificial skin. Table 1: NPDA006-1-01 Foundation Base
[0072] The INCI Name (EU) corresponding to the Commercial Name shown in Table 1 is provided in parentheses in the following listing: Purolan IDD (Isododecane) ; Pelemol TGC (Trioctyldodecyl Citrate) ; Xiameter PMX-245 (Cyclopentasiloxane) ; DC ES-5300 (Lauryl PEG-10 Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone) ; Abil WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate) ; Bentone Gel VS5 PC V (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) ; UNIPURE WHITE LC888 ADT-3 (CI 77891, Aluminum hydroxide, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer) ; UNIPURE YELLOW LC182 ADT-3 (CI 77492, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer) ; UNIPURE RED LC389 ADT-3 (CI 77491, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer) ; UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC990 ADT-3 (CI 77499, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer) ; Xiameter PMX-245 (Cyclopentasiloxane) ; Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) ; 10%green 8 solution K7157-J (CI 59040, Water) ; SENSIBEAD SI 175 (Silica) ; Neon green 8 pigment (CI 59040, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate) ; COVAFLUID AMD (Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate) ; "Dry blend" of green 8 dye + COVAFLUID AMD (CI 59040 Green 8] , Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate) .
[0073] A handheld colorimeter was used to check the La, b values. A middle spot was measured the initial values of the artificial skin were recorded. Pictures were taken of different samples at the same time under lightbox. 100 μL of the foundation was taken using the pipette and the foundation was spread until even. Pictures were taken of different samples at the same time under lightbox and the La, b values were measured at the same middle spot and recorded as T0. La, b values were measured again at 1, 2, 3, and 4 hours to evaluate at the same spot for the different foundations and pictures were taken of different samples at the same time under lightbox and recorded. The differences of L*values and pictures were compared for T0 and T4hr samples.
[0074] Table 2 below, Figure 2, and Figure 3 show that in NPDA006-1-01 foundation base, at time T0 and T4hr the different average L*value of the blank foundation ( “blank” ) , base with neon Green 8 pigment in oil phase ( “with neon Green 8 pigment” ) , base with pure Green 8 dye and Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate blended powder in oil phase ( “dry blend of Green 8” ) , and base with Green 8 dye into water phase while Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate powder into oil phase separately ( “with Green 8 in water” ) . Table 2: Color difference of initial and at T = 4 hours in NPDA-006-1-01 foundation base
[0075] Figure 2 and Figure 3 show that the NPDA006-1-01 foundation base with neon Green 8 pigment has a higher L*value, better instant brightening effect, and better long-term anti-dull effect after 4 hours than the blank base, the base with dry blend of Green 8, and the base with Green 8 in water.
[0076] From the evaluation of the above mentioned NPDA006-1-01 foundation base, Table 2, Figure 2, and Figure 3 show that with neon Green 8 pigment has better brightening effect than the blank base, the base with dry blend of Green 8 and the base with Green 8 in water. They also show the neon Green 8 pigment has a higher L*than the blank base, the base with dry blend of Green 8 and the base with Green 8 in water after 4 hours, which shows the better long-term anti-dull effect after 4 hours.
[0077] Red 28 Neon Pigment Brightening and Fluorescent Effect in Lipstick Evaluation
[0078] Red 28 Neon pigment was added into lipstick and compared with the regular Red 28 Alumina Lake and market fluorescent pigment at the same pure dye content in the formula to check the fluorescent effect under ultraviolet light and the lipstick brightness of itself and the brightness on skin. The lipstick formula is shown below in Table 3 NPDA006 Lipstick Base Comparison. Table 3: NPDA006-1-01 Foundation Base
[0079] Table 3 above includes ingredients referred to by commercial name. The following information relates the commercial name of an ingredient to the INCI name. Paracera N101 is polyethylene. Paracera H and Paracera L are both microcrystalline wax. Candelilla Wax MK-7 is Candelilla wax. S-Face IS-1009P is polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate. SALACOS WO-6 is dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate. Panalane L-14E is hydrogenated polyisobutene. COSMOL 43V is polyglyceryl-2 trisiostearate. Crodamol GTCC is caprylic / capric triglyceride. DUB PTIS is pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0080] Unipure Red LC328 (regular red 28 Al Lake) is CI 45410. Covafluid AMD is aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Neon Red 28 Pigment is CI 45410 and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Market fluorescent pigment is CI 45410, CI 45380, CI45370, aluminum hydroxide and norbornane-diamine / resorcinol diglycidyl ether crosslinked polymer. S-Face IS-1005P is polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate.
[0081] Figure 4 compares lipstick with made with Red 28 Al lake (marked i) , neon Red 28 pigment (marked ii) , and market fluorescent pigment (marked iii) . Figure 4 shows that neon Red 28 pigment has a brighter shade than regular Red 28 Al lake and the market fluorescent pigment in lipstick (Fig. 4A) and on skin (Fig. 4B) . Neon Red 28 pigment also has good fluorescence under ultraviolet light (Fig. 4C) , similar to market fluorescent pigment, while regular Red 28 Al lake weakened fluorescence.
[0082] While the disclosure has been disclosed in connection with the preferred embodiments shown and described in detail, various modifications and improvements thereon will become readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Accordingly, the spirit and scope of the present disclosure is not to be limited by the foregoing examples, but is to be understood in the broadest sense allowable by law.
Claims
1.A powdered composition comprising:a dye in an amount by weight of between 0.01%and 20.0%of the total weight of the powdered composition; andaluminum starch octenylsuccinate in an amount by weight of between 80.0%and 99.99%of the total weight of the powdered composition.2.The powdered composition of the immediately preceding claim, wherein the powdered composition is made by a method comprising:dissolving the dye and the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate into an ethanol solution (e.g., 75%ethanol) to produce a composition solution;mixing the composition solution until homogenous to produce a homogeneous composition solution;elevating temperature of the homogeneous composition solution for a heating length of time to produce a solidified composition; andreducing the solidified composition into a powder to produce the powdered composition.3.The powdered composition of the immediately preceding claim, wherein the powdered composition has a particle size of between 500 nm and 100 μm, between 1 μm and 50 μm, between 1 μm and 30 μm, or between 10 μm and 100 μm, including but not limited to, at least 500 nm, at least 750 nm, at least 1 μm, at least 2 μm, at least 2.5 μm, at least 4 μm, at least 5 μm, at least 7.5 μm, at least 8 μm, at least 10 μm, at least 13 μm, at least 15 μm, at least 20 μm, at least 25 μm, at least 30 μm, at least 35 μm, at least 40 μm, at least 45 μm, or at least 50 μm and at most 100 μm, at most 90 μm, at most 80 μm, at most 75 μm, at most 60 μm, at most 50 μm, at most 30 μm, at most 25 μm, at most 20 μm, at most 15 μm, at most 10 μm, or at most 5 μm.4.The powdered composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the dye is present in an amount by weight of between 0.3%and 3%of the total weight of the powdered composition, including but not limited to, at least 0.3%, at least 0.4%, at least 0.5%, at least 0.75%, at least 1.0%, at least 1.5%, or at least 2.0%and at most 3%, at most 2%, at most 1.0%, at most 0.95%, at most 0.90%, at most 0.85%, at most 0.80%, at most 0.75%, at most 0.70%, at most 0.60%, at most 0.50%, or at most 0.40%.5.The powdered composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the powdered composition is hydrophobic.6.The powdered composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the dye is a neon pigment that fluoresces upon irradiation by ultraviolet (UV) light.7.The powdered composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the powdered composition fluoresces upon irradiation by UV light.8.The powdered composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the dye is selected from the group consisting of a pyranine dye (e.g., Green 8 (CI 59040) ) , a bromo acid dye (e.g., Red 27 (CI 45410) , Red 28 (CI 45410) , Orange 5 (CI 45370) , Red 21 (CI 45380) and Red 22 (CI 45380) ) , and combinations thereof.9.The powdered composition of any one the preceding claims, wherein an L*value of the powdered composition is higher than a first comparison L*value of a first comparison composition, the first comparison composition consisting of the dye alone.10.The powdered composition of any one the preceding claims, wherein an L*value of the powdered composition is higher than a second L*value of a second comparison composition, the comparison composition consisting of the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate alone.11.The powdered composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein an L*value of the powdered composition is improved relative to a third L*value of a third comparison composition, the third comparison composition comprising the dye in an amount by weight greater than 20.0%of the total weight of the comparison composition and aluminum octenylsuccinate in an amount by weight of between 20.0%and 80.0%of the total weight of the powdered composition.12.The powdered composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein a fluorescence of the powdered composition is improved relative to a third fluorescence of a third comparison composition, the third comparison composition comprising the dye in an amount by weight greater than 20.0%of the total weight of the comparison composition and aluminum octenylsuccinate in an amount by weight less than 80.0%of the total weight of the powdered composition.13.A cosmetic composition comprising the powdered composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition is optionally makeup, compact powder, foundation, lipstick, blush, nail polish, eyeshadow, eyeliner, highlighter, concealer, a skin car product, and / or sunscreen.14.The cosmetic composition of the immediately preceding claim, wherein applying a test amount of the cosmetic composition over a test area of skin results in a higher L*value immediately after application than applying the test amount of a first comparison cosmetic composition wherein the powdered composition is replaced by an equal amount by weight of a first comparison powdered composition consisting of the dye alone .15.The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein applying a test amount of the cosmetic composition over a test area of skin results in a higher L*value four hours after application than applying the test amount of a second comparison cosmetic composition wherein the powdered composition is replaced by an equal amount by weight of a second comparison powdered composition consisting of the dye alone.16.A dispersed powdered composition comprising powdered composition of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the powdered composition is dispersed in a dispersal medium.17.The dispersed powdered composition of the immediately preceding claim, wherein the dispersal medium is at least one of a liquid (e.g., oil, water, or silicone) , a solid (e.g., a butter or a wax) , or a combination thereof.18.A method of making a powdered composition, the method comprising:dissolving a dye and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate into an ethanol solution to produce a composition solution;mixing the composition solution until homogeneous to produce a homogeneous composition solution;elevating temperature of the homogeneous composition solution for a heating length of time to produce a solidified composition; andreducing the solidified composition into a powder to produce the powdered composition,wherein the powdered composition comprises the dye in an amount by weight of between 0.01%and 20.0%of the total weight of the powdered composition and the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate in an amount by weight of between 80.0%and 99.9%of the total weight of the powdered composition.19.The method of the immediately preceding claim, wherein the dye is present in an amount by weight of between 0.3%and 3%of the total weight of the powdered composition, including but not limited to, at least 0.3%, at least 0.4%at least 0.5%, at least 0.75%, at least 1.0%, at least 1.5%, or at least 2.0%and at most 3%, at most 2%, at most 1.0%, at most 0.95%, at most 0.90%, at most 0.85%, at most 0.80%, at most 0.75%, at most 0.70%, at most 0.60%, at most 0.50%, or at most 0.40%.20.The method of any one of claims 18 to the immediately preceding claim, wherein the reducing step comprises grinding, milling, crushing, cutting, sonication, and / or blending.21.The method of any one of claims 18 to the immediately preceding claim, further comprising dispersing the powdered composition in a dispersal medium to make a dispersed powdered composition.22.The method of the immediately preceding claim, wherein the dispersal medium is at least one of a liquid (e.g., oil, water, or silicone) , a solid (e.g., a butter or a wax) , or a combination thereof.23.The method of any one of claims 18 to the immediately preceding claim, wherein the dye is a neon pigment that fluoresces upon irradiation by UV light.24.The method of any one of claims 18 to the immediately preceding claim, wherein the dye is selected from the group consisting of a pyranine dye (e.g., Green 8 (CI 59040) ) , a bromo acid dye (e.g., Red 27 (CI 45410) , Red 28 (CI 45410) , Orange 5 (CI 45370) , Red 21 (CI 45380) and Red 22 (CI 45380) ) , and combinations thereof.
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