Composition for conditioning keratin fibres

Abstract

A composition for conditioning keratin fibres comprising: a) at least one cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amido amines, b) at least one lipophilic acid, and c) at least one lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant. A non-therapeutic method for conditioning keratin fibers comprising applying the composition to keratin fibers.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for conditioning keratin fibers. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for conditioning keratin fibers. Background Art

[0002] Hair is often damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric factors such as light, weather, and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, and / or straightening.

[0003] There are many products for conditioning hair. To meet the needs of various consumers, cosmetic companies are keen to diversify the product categories of hair oil products.

[0004] Amidoamine surfactants selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oil amidopropyl dimethylamine, and behenamidopropyl dimethylamine are readily biodegradable and have a natural origin. The amidoamine can be used as a surfactant in non-ionic form (pH higher than or equal to 7) or cationic form (pH lower than 7). The cationic form is of particular interest due to good hair conditioning benefits such as antistatic, detangling, smoothness, and softness effects. Efforts have been made to formulate them into various water-based formulations, such as hair conditioners. However, applying dimethylamine surfactants in cationic form in oil may change the clear and uniform appearance of the composition.

[0005] It is highly desirable to use some products with a pleasant appearance (such as some products with a clear appearance) to provide hair conditioning benefits, and it is also desirable that the products for conditioning hair are stable over time.

[0006] Therefore, there is still a need to develop a composition for conditioning keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers (such as hair), which has a clear appearance and is stable over time. Summary of the Invention

[0008] The object of the present invention is to formulate a clear composition for conditioning hair, which is stable over time.

[0009] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning keratin fibers, which comprises:

[0010] a) at least one cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amidoamines,

[0011] b) at least one lipophilic acid, and

[0012] c) at least one lipophilic polyglycerol-based non-ionic surfactant.

[0013] The inventors have found that in the presence of a lipophilic acid, a tertiary amidoamine surfactant can be converted into its cationic form, which is insoluble in the oil phase, and in the presence of a lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant, the tertiary amidoamine surfactant in its cationic form can be dissolved in the composition, and a transparent and stable composition can be obtained.

[0014] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for conditioning keratin fibers, which comprises applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

[0015] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the following detailed description and examples. Detailed Description of the Invention

[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. When the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0018] Unless otherwise specified, the upper and lower limits of a numerical range used herein are included in the range, particularly in the expressions "between... and..." and "... to...".

[0019] In addition, the expression "at least one / species" used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one / species or more".

[0020] Throughout this application, the term "comprising / including" shall be interpreted as covering all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising / including" also discloses embodiments in which there are no features other than the specifically mentioned features (i.e., "consisting of...").

[0021] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values representing amounts of ingredients, etc. used in the specification and claims should be understood to be modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that can vary as desired according to the required purpose.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin fibers" includes animal keratin fibers and human keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0023] Unless otherwise specified, all percentages in the present invention are by weight.

[0024] Oil Phase

[0025] According to a first aspect of the present invention, the composition preferably comprises an oil phase.

[0026] The oil phase comprises at least one oil.

[0027] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one oil.

[0028] More preferably, the composition comprises at least one non-silicone oil.

[0029] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0030] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in liquid or paste (non-solid) form at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0031] The composition according to the present invention may particularly comprise hydrocarbon oils.

[0032] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that mainly contains hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0033] The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil that does not contain any silicon atoms and particularly does not contain any Si—O groups.

[0034] The term "free of silicone oil" means a composition according to the present invention that contains less than 2% by weight of silicone oil, preferably contains less than 1% by weight of silicone oil, and more preferably does not contain (is free of) silicone oil.

[0035] As the oil, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

[0036] The oil can be a non-polar oil, such as hydrocarbons, etc.; a polar oil, such as esters, fatty alcohols, and ethers; or a mixture thereof.

[0037] The oil can be an oil of plant origin or animal origin and a synthetic oil.

[0038] The hydrocarbon oil can be selected from:

[0039] - linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane; and isoparaffins, such as isocetane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0040] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene, for example and squalane.

[0041] As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isocetane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, squalane, mineral oils (such as liquid paraffin), paraffin wax, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof; vegetable oils such as linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oleifera oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Ester oils can be used, preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monohydric alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester being greater than or equal to 10.

[0043] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0044] Among the monoesters of monocarboxylic acids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate; isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0045] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids with C1-C22 alcohols; and esters of monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy alcohols, trihydroxy alcohols, tetrahydroxy alcohols or pentahydroxy alcohols. Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; dipropyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; tri(octyldodecyl) citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0046] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 (and preferably C12-C22) fatty acids can be used. Recall that the term "sugar" denotes an oxygen-carrying hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functional groups, which may or may not contain aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and which contains at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (sucrose or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, such as methylglucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids can in particular be selected from esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 (and preferably C12-C22) fatty acids. If these compounds are unsaturated, they can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0047] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and their mixtures.

[0048] These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, especially, for example, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate; and pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethylhexanoate).

[0049] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and especially monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0050] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold by Amerchol under the name DO, which is methylglucose dioleate.

[0051] As examples of preferred ester oils, mention may be made, for example, of:

[0052] - Diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and their mixtures;

[0053] - Synthetic triglycerides, such as triglyceride caprylate / caprate, trimyristin, tripalmitin, trilinolenin, trilaurin, tricaprate, trioctanoin, and tri (caprate / caprylate / linolenate) glyceride.

[0054] For fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol may be mentioned.

[0055] Ether hydrocarbon-based oil, also known as ether oil, can be volatile or non-volatile, and is preferably non-volatile.

[0056] Ether hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil of the formula R1OR2, where R1 and R2 independently represent straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl groups, preferably C6-C18 alkyl groups, and more preferably C8-C12 alkyl groups. R1 and R2 may preferably be the same. Straight-chain alkyl groups that can be mentioned include butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl, and tetracosyl. Branched-chain alkyl groups that can be mentioned include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, tert-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyl octyl. Cyclic alkyl groups that can be mentioned include cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl, and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl.

[0057] Advantageously, the ether oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether, didecyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyldimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Preferably, it is selected from dicaprylyl ether, didecyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Dicaprylyl ether is most particularly suitable for use.

[0059] Preferably, the oil is selected from branched paraffin oils having 8 to 20 carbon atoms and still more preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane; ester oils; ether hydrocarbon group oils having C8-C 12 alkyl groups, such as dioctyl ether; fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.

[0060] More preferably, the oil is selected from isododecane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, glyceryl caprylate / caprate, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl isostearate, dioctyl ether, squalane; fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention, the amount of oil present in the composition ranges from about 50 wt.% to about 99.9 wt.%, preferably from about 85 wt.% to about 97.5 wt.%, or from about 88 wt.% to about 95 wt.%.

[0062] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, the composition contains more than 50 wt.% of oil, more preferably more than 70 wt.% of oil, and even more preferably more than 80 wt.% of oil.

[0063] Cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amidoamines

[0064] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cationizable surfactant, tertiary amidoamine.

[0065] Amidoamines are a class of compounds formed from fatty acids and diamines.

[0066] Preferably, the cationizable surfactant is selected from tertiary amidoamines having C 10 -C 30 alkyl chains.

[0067] More preferably, the cationizable surfactant is selected from (C 10 -C 30 ) alkylamido (C1-C8) alkyl (di) (C1-C6) alkylamine.

[0068] For (C 10 -C 30 ) alkylamido (C1-C8) alkyl (di) (C1-C6) alkylamine, it must be understood that the alkyl can be straight-chain or branched-chain, and for the amido group, it must be understood as the group -C(O)-N(R)- or -N(R)-C(O)-, where R represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched-chain (C1-C6) alkyl group.

[0069] More preferably, the cationizable surfactant is selected from tertiary amidoamines of the following formula:

[0070] R1 -C(O)-N(H)-R 2 -NR 3 R 4 (A)

[0071] wherein:

[0072] R 1 is an alkyl or alkenyl group having a C 10 -C 30 carbon chain,

[0073] R 2 is a straight-chain C1-C6 alkylene group, and

[0074] R 3 and R 4 are the same or different and are straight-chain alkyl groups having a C1-C4 carbon chain.

[0075] Preferably, in formula (A),

[0076] R 1 is a straight-chain alkyl group having a C 12 -C 24 carbon chain,

[0077] R 2 is a straight-chain C1-C4 alkylene group, and

[0078] R 3 and R 4 are the same and represent a methyl or ethyl group.

[0079] More preferably, in formula (A), R 2 is a -(CH2)3- group, and R 3 and R 4 are -CH3 groups.

[0080] Non-limiting examples of cationizable surfactants selected from tertiary amidoamines include oleamide propyl dimethylamine, stearamide propyl dimethylamine, isostearamide propyl dimethylamine, stearamide ethyl dimethylamine, lauramide propyl dimethylamine, myristamide propyl dimethylamine, behenamide propyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamide propyl dimethylamine, palmitamide propyl dimethylamine, castor oil amide propyl dimethylamine, soybean oil amide propyl dimethylamine, wheat germ oil amide propyl dimethylamine, sunflower oil amide propyl dimethylamine, almond oil amide propyl dimethylamine, avocado oil amide propyl dimethylamine, babassu oil amide propyl dimethylamine, coconut oil amide propyl dimethylamine, mink oil amide propyl dimethylamine, oat oil amide propyl dimethylamine, sesame oil amide propyl dimethylamine, tall oil amide propyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oil amide propyl dimethylamine, olive oil amide propyl dimethylamine, palm amide propyl dimethylamine, stearamide ethyl diethylamine, and combinations thereof.

[0081] Preferably, the cationizable surfactant is selected from rapeseed oil amido propyl dimethylamine, stearyl amido propyl dimethylamine, behenyl amido propyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.

[0082] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises rapeseed oil amido propyl dimethylamine.

[0083] Rapeseed oil amido propyl dimethylamine can be represented by the following formula (A1):

[0084] R–C(O)–N(H)–(CH2)3–N(CH3)2 (A1)

[0085] wherein R-C(O) is a fatty acid derived from the seeds of Brassica campestris (rapeseed oil), mostly behenyl (C 22 ).

[0086] As rapeseed oil amido propyl dimethylamine that can be used in the composition of the present invention, PROCONDITION TM 22 from Inolex Chemical Company can be mentioned.

[0087] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises stearyl amido propyl dimethylamine.

[0088] Stearyl amido propyl dimethylamine can be represented by the following formula (A2):

[0089] CH3–(CH2) 16 –C(O)–N(H)–(CH2)3–N(CH3)2 (A2)

[0090] As stearyl amido propyl dimethylamine that can be used in the composition of the present invention, in particular, AMID S18 from Evonik and SPA from Clarient can be mentioned. SPA.

[0091] Advantageously, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention, the amount of the cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amidoamines present in the composition ranges from 0.01 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 1.5 wt.%.

[0092] Lipophilic acid

[0093] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one lipophilic acid.

[0094] For the purposes of the present invention, in the presence of a lipophilic acid, a tertiary amidoamine surfactant can be converted into its cationic form, which can be used for conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0095] Preferably, the lipophilic acid is selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, sorbic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, maleic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0096] In some embodiments, the lipophilic acid is selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0097] Preferably, the molar ratio of the cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amidoamines to the lipophilic acid is from 1:0.3 to about 1:4, or from 1:0.4 to about 1:3.

[0098] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention, the amount of the lipophilic acid present in the composition ranges from 0.01 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, and more preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 1 wt.%.

[0099] Lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant

[0100] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant.

[0101] Preferably, the lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters.

[0102] Preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 4 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester contains 2 to 10 polyglycerol units, more preferably 4 to 8 polyglycerol units, and even more preferably 5 or 6 polyglycerol units.

[0103] The polyglycerol fatty acid ester may be selected from monoesters, diesters, and triesters of the following: linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably saturated fatty acids such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.

[0104] The lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant may be selected from PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 didecaprate, PG2 tridecaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 sesquiisostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 didecaprate, PG3 tridecaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 sesquistearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 sesquiisostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 sesquioleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 didecaprate, PG4 tridecaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 sesquistearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 sesquiisostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 sesquioleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 didecaprate, PG5 tridecaprate, PG5 tetradecaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 sesquistearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 tetrastearate, PG5 isostearate,PG5 sesquisoistearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 tetrastearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 sesquioleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG5 tetraoleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicatepate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 sesquimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, PG6 pentamyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 sesquistearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 tetrastearate, PG6 pentastearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 sesquisisostearate, PG6 disisostearate, PG6 trisoisostearate, PG6 tetraisostearate, PG6 pentaisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, PG6 dicatepate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 caprylate, PG7 dicatepate, PG7 dioleate, PG7 caprylate, PG8 dicatepate, PG8 dioleate, PG8 caprylate, PG9 dicatepate, PG9 dioleate, PG9 caprylate, PG10 dicatepate, PG10 dioleate, PG10 caprylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Preferably, the lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant is selected from: polyglycerol monocaprate or polyglycerol dicatepate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol monooleate or polyglycerol dioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol monocaprylate or polyglycerol dicaprylate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; and combinations thereof.

[0106] More preferably, the lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol-6 dicatepate (PG6 dicatepate), polyglycerol-6 dioleate (PG6 dioleate), polyglycerol-6 caprylate (PG6 caprylate), polyglycerol-2 oleate (PG2 oleate), and combinations thereof.

[0107] As the PG6 didecanoate, SunSoft Q-102H-C sold by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. can be used, for example. As the PG6 dioleate, SunSoft Q-172H-C sold by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. can be used. As the PG6 caprylate, SunSoft Q-8H-C sold by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. can be used.

[0108] Advantageously, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention, the amount of the lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant present in the composition ranges from 0.01 wt.% to 5 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 3 wt.%, more preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.%.

[0109] Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0110] The composition of the present invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients for conditioning keratin fibers and / or dyeing keratin fibers.

[0111] Those skilled in the art can easily adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredients based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0112] Additional adjuvants or additives

[0113] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants or additives commonly used in compositions for conditioning keratin fibers and / or dyeing keratin fibers, such as fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Those skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0115] Aqueous Phase

[0116] The composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in an oil phase. If present, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible compounds or at least partially water-miscible compounds, such as C2-C8 lower polyols or monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0117] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include diols, such as butanediol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isopentylene glycol, octyldiethylene glycol; glycerol (i.e., propanetriol) and polyethylene glycol.

[0118] If present, the aqueous phase may be present in an amount of from 0.01 wt.% to 50 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 8 wt.%, and more preferably from 0.3 wt.% to 6 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0119] Preferably, if present, the amount of water present in the composition according to the invention ranges from about 0.001 wt.% to about 10 wt.%, preferably from about 0.01 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, or from about 0.01 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0120] Preferably, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention, the composition contains less than 2 wt.% of water, more preferably less than 1 wt.% of water.

[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning keratin fibers, which, based on the total weight of the composition, comprises:

[0122] a) from 0.2 wt.% to 1.5 wt.% of at least one cationizable surfactant selected from rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof,

[0123] b) from 0.2 wt.% to 1 wt.% of at least one lipophilic acid selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, sorbic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, maleic acid, and combinations thereof, and

[0124] c) from 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.% of at least one lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant selected from polyglycerol-6 didodecanoate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-6 caprylate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, and combinations thereof.

[0125] Preparation and Use

[0126] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the components of the oil phase, surfactant and aqueous phase, which are essential components as explained above, and additional components.

[0127] The methods and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the invention.

[0128] The composition can be used on wet or dry hair.

[0129] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for conditioning keratin fibers, which comprises applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibers.

[0130] Preferably, the keratin fibers are hair.

[0131] The composition according to the invention can soften or smooth keratin fibers, providing a non-greasy feel. Examples

[0132] The following examples are used to illustrate the invention, which are, however, non-limiting in nature.

[0133] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0134] Table 1

[0135]

[0136] Examples 1-2 of the Invention and Comparative Examples 1-5

[0137] The compositions according to Invention Examples (IE) 1-2 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1-5 were prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 2 (contents are expressed as weight % relative to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated):

[0138] Table 2

[0139]

[0140] The compositions of Invention Examples 1-2 are compositions according to the invention.

[0141] The compositions of Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 4 do not contain a lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant.

[0142] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not contain a cationizable surfactant and a lipophilic acid.

[0143] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not contain a cationizable surfactant and a lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant.

[0144] The composition of Comparative Example 5 does not contain a cationizable surfactant.

[0145] Preparation procedure:

[0146] Taking the composition of Invention Example 1 as an example, the compositions listed above were prepared as follows:

[0147] 1). The fatty compounds (i.e., dioctyl ether, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl isostearate, squalane, undecane (and) tridecane) and the perfume were mixed to obtain a hair oil base;

[0148] 2). The surfactants (i.e., stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and polyglycerol-6-dioleate) and the acid (i.e., lactic acid) were added with stirring; and

[0149] 3). Water is added to the oil base to obtain a composition.

[0150] Evaluation:

[0151] The stability of the obtained wash-free oil is evaluated as follows: the wash-free oil is kept at -10 °C for 24 hours, at room temperature (25 °C) for 1 week, and at 45 °C for 1 week, respectively, and visually observed to check whether there are changes in the physical appearance, color, and odor of the tested wash-free oil. If no change in the parameters is detected at all temperatures, the tested wash-free oil can be evaluated as stable; otherwise, it is evaluated as unstable.

[0152] The appearance of the obtained wash-free oil is visually observed.

[0153] The cosmetic performance level is evaluated as follows:

[0154] 1. Wash a natural hair sample (6 g) with an ordinary shampoo.

[0155] 2. Manually apply 0.1 g of the tested oil sample evenly to the wet hair sample; and

[0156] 3. Thoroughly dry the hair sample with the oil.

[0157] The sensory characteristics of the treated hair sample are felt by hand and classified as "acceptable" or "unacceptable" based on the following criteria:

[0158] Acceptable: An improvement in the sensation can be perceived compared to the original oil base.

[0159] Unacceptable: No improvement in the sensation can be perceived compared to the original oil base.

[0160] The results are summarized in Table 3.

[0161] Table 3

[0162] Appearance Stability Cosmetic performance level IE.1 Uniform and transparent Stable Acceptable IE.2 Uniform and transparent Stable Acceptable CE.1 Non-uniform and phase-separated. White precipitate appears. Unstable Unacceptable CE.2 Uniform and transparent Stable Unacceptable CE.3 Non-uniform and water droplets present at the bottom. Unstable Unacceptable CE.4 Non-uniform and phase-separated. White precipitate appears. Unstable Unacceptable CE.5 Uniform and transparent Stable Unacceptable

[0163] As can be seen from Table 3, the compositions of Invention Examples 1-2 are stable and transparent and can provide an acceptable cosmetic performance level.

Claims

1. A composition for conditioning and / or cleansing keratin fibers, comprising: a) at least one cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amidoamines, b) at least one lipophilic acid, and c) at least one lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationizable surfactant is selected from tertiary amidoamines having a C 10 -C 30 alkyl chain, preferably the cationizable surfactant is selected from (C 10 -C 30 ) alkylamido(C1-C8)alkyl(bis)(C1-C6)alkylamine.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationizable surfactant is selected from tertiary amidoamines having the following formula: R 1 -C(O)-N(H)-R 2 -NR 3 R 4 (A) Wherein: R 1 is an alkyl or alkenyl group having a C 10 -C 30 carbon chain R 2 is a straight-chain C1-C6 alkylene group, and R 3 and R 4 which is the same as or different from R, is a straight-chain alkyl group having a C1-C4 carbon chain Preferably, in formula (A), R 1 is a straight-chain alkyl group having a C 12 -C 24 carbon chain R 2 is a straight-chain C1-C4 alkylene group, and R 3 and R 4 are the same and represent methyl or ethyl.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationizable surfactant is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soy oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germ oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflower oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, almond oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassu oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, coconut oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, mink oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, oat oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesame oilamidopropyl, tall oil amidopropyl dimethylamine, olive oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, and combinations thereof, preferably the tertiary amidoamine surfactant is selected from rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1-4, wherein, based on the total weight of the composition, the cationizable surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 1.5 wt.%.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1-5, wherein the lipophilic acid is selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, sorbic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, maleic acid, and combinations thereof, the lipophilic acid is selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid, and combinations thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1-6, wherein the molar ratio of the cationizable surfactant selected from tertiary amidoamines to the lipophilic acid is from 1:0.3 to about 1:4, or from 1:0.4 to about 1:

3.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein, based on the total weight of the composition, the lipophilic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 5 wt.%, and more preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 1 wt.%.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1-8, wherein the lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, which preferably have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 4 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1-9, wherein the lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol monocaprate or polyglycerol didecanoate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol monooleate or polyglycerol dioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol monooctanoate or polyglycerol dioctanoate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid esters are selected from polyglycerol-6 didecanoate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-6 octanoate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, and combinations thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1-10, wherein, based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of the lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant present ranges from 0.01 wt.% to 5 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 3 wt.%, and more preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.%.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1-11, which comprises at least one oil, wherein the oil is selected from isododecane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl isostearate, dicaprylyl ether, squalane; fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein, based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of the at least one oil present ranges from 50 wt.% to 99.9 wt.%, preferably from 85 wt.% to 97.5 wt.%, or from 88 wt.% to 95 wt.%.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1-13, further comprising less than 2 wt.%, more preferably less than 1 wt.%, of water, based on the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to claim 1, which, based on the total weight of the composition, comprises in the oil phase: a) 0.2 wt.% to 1.5 wt.% of at least one cationizable surfactant selected from rapeseed oil amido propyl dimethylamine, stearamide propyl dimethylamine, behenamide propyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof, b) 0.2 wt.% to 1 wt.% of at least one lipophilic acid selected from salicylic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, sorbic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, maleic acid, and combinations thereof, and c) 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.% of at least one lipophilic polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant selected from polyglycerol-6 didecanoate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-6 octanoate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, and combinations thereof.

16. A non-therapeutic method for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-15 to the keratin fibers.

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