Composition with chitosan

By using a specific proportion of natural chitosan, alpha hydroxy acids and pigment coloring materials in the cosmetic composition, combined with non-ionic surfactants, the problem that the cosmetic composition is difficult to form a uniform film with good durability on the keratin material is solved, and good cosmetic effects and natural raw materials are achieved.

CN120417874APending Publication Date: 2025-08-01LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202380087381.9
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-12-19
Filing Date
2023-12-19
Publication Date
2025-08-01

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

It is difficult for existing cosmetic compositions to form a well-covered, uniform and durable film on the keratin material, and conventional film forming agents may cause the composition to dry out and it is difficult to maintain a high proportion of natural raw materials.

Method used

Using natural chitosan, alpha hydroxy acids, pigment coloring materials and nonionic surfactants with a molecular weight greater than 3000 Daltons in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant to chitosan is between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6.

Benefits of technology

It forms a film with good coverage, uniformity and durability, with improved wear resistance and adhesion, maintaining a high proportion of natural raw materials, and improving the makeup effect and comfort of cosmetics.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) at least 0.01 wt%, as a proportion of the total weight of the composition, of a natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, in an amount strictly less than 15 wt%, b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid, c) at least one fatty acid, and d) at least one fatty acid. C) 3% to 50%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a pigment colouring material, and d) a nonionic surfactant wherein the weight ratio between the nonionic surfactant and chitosan is between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6. The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or treating the skin and / or keratin appendages, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or keratin appendages.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0002] a) at least 0.01 wt% of a natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, calculated as a proportion of the total weight of the composition, this amount being strictly less than 15 wt%,

[0003] b) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid,

[0004] c) a pigmentary colorant from 3% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0005] d) a nonionic surfactant,

[0006] wherein the weight ratio between the nonionic surfactant and the chitosan is between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6.

[0007] The present invention also relates to a method for making up and / or treating the skin and / or keratinous appendages, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or keratinous appendages. Background Art

[0008] There are many cosmetic compositions for which it is required that the film deposited after application to keratinous materials should have good persistence. Mention may be made, for example, of lipsticks or nail varnishes. In order to obtain such a result, specific raw materials can be combined, in particular film formers. However, the presence of such reagents for making the film persistent on keratinous materials can cause the composition to dry out.

[0009] In addition, it is often sought to obtain compositions with good coverage.

[0010] Thus, formulators seek raw materials and / or systems that make it possible to obtain fluid compositions (i.e., flowing compositions) with good, uniform and firm (i.e., persistent) deposit coverage.

[0011] In addition, formulating cosmetic products with a high proportion of natural raw materials or raw materials of natural origin is one of the new challenges in meeting consumer expectations. Thus, it is desirable that the proposed compositions make it possible to maintain a high proportion of natural raw materials or raw materials of natural origin. Summary of the Invention

[0012] The aim of the present invention is to propose aqueous cosmetic properties with improved cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of coverage and uniformity, and also good persistence.

[0013] After application, these compositions leave a uniform film-forming deposit that is well-covered and has good abrasion resistance. The film formed has adhesion and cohesion, is well-covered, and has good persistence. In particular, these films have improved friction resistance.

[0014] Accordingly, an object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, in particular for make-up and / or treatment of the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips, the cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0015] a) at least 0.01 wt% of a natural chitosan with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, as a proportion of the total weight of the composition, this amount being strictly less than 15 wt%,

[0016] b) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid,

[0017] c) 3% to 50% of a pigmentary coloring material relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0018] d) a non-ionic surfactant,

[0019] wherein the weight ratio between the non-ionic surfactant and the chitosan is between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6.

[0020] "Physiologically acceptable" means a medium that is compatible with keratinous materials.

[0021] Another object of the present invention is a method for make-up and / or care of the skin and / or keratinous appendages, wherein a composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

[0022] Chitosan

[0023] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.01% of at least one natural chitosan with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons (3 kDa; 1 Da = 1 g / mol).

[0024] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of natural chitosan is also strictly less than 15 wt%.

[0025] Preferably, the molecular weight of the natural chitosan is greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa. Preferably, the molecular weight of the natural chitosan is between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 150 kDa.

[0026] Chitosan (or deacetylated chitosan) is very common in nature. Chitosan only signals in the exoskeletons of certain insects (such as termite queens) and in the cell walls of specific types of mushrooms and zygomycetes.

[0027] Chitosan is obtained by the deacetylation reaction of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by β(1,4) bonds.

[0028] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).

[0029] "Chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine constituent units, and the degree of acetylation of this copolymer is less than 90%. Chitosan is composed of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β(1,4) bonds, and forms a poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type polymer.

[0030] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%.

[0031] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units, and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy or by titration with a strong base.

[0032] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. It is particularly extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources (such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger).

[0033] The chitosan of the present invention preferably comes from the mycelium of ascomycete-type mushrooms, especially the mycelium of Aspergillus niger and / or the mycelium of basidiomycete-type mushrooms, especially the mycelium of Lentinula edodes (shiitake mushroom) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the mushroom is Aspergillus niger.

[0034] Chitosan can be of GMO origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0035] The chitosan of the present invention is natural, that is, it has not been modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0036] One method for preparing chitosan is the method described in application WO03068824.

[0037] The chitosan used in the present invention is preferably in powder form. It is sold in particular by Kitozyme under the names Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0038] Relative to the total weight of the composition, chitosan is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt% to 14 wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 14%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 12 wt%, preferably 0.2 wt% to 7 wt%, and preferably 0.25 wt% to 5 wt%.

[0039] Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)

[0040] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one AHA.

[0041] According to the present invention, an alpha-hydroxy acid is a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group which occupies the alpha position on said acid (the carbon adjacent to the carboxylic acid functional group). In particular, depending on the final pH value applied to the composition, the acid may be in the form of the free acid and / or in the form of one of its associated salts (in particular salts with bases or organic bases) in the final composition.

[0042] Alpha-hydroxy acids (alpha-hydroxy acids or AHAs) are selected, for example, from lactic acid, citric acid, methyl lactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid and 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyl lactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; hydroxypropanedioic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and their salts. More particularly, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more alpha-hydroxy acids may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10 wt%, 0.005 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt%.

[0045] Pigment dyes

[0046] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition according to the present invention comprises 3% to 50% of at least one pigment dye. Thus, the dye is selected from powder dyes such as mineral pigments, nacre and organic pigments.

[0047] Pigment dyes are compounds having a Color Index (CI).

[0048] The term "pigment" is to be understood as referring to white or colored mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium and intended to color a composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0049] Preferably, the pigment dyes of the present invention have a refractive index of at least 1.9 at 25 °C.

[0050] The refractive index of the pigment dyes of the present invention preferably ranges from 1.9 to 4. In particular, the pigment dyes are different from fillers; preferably, the pigment dyes are different from talc.

[0051] Relative to the weight of the composition, the dye may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3 wt% to 45 wt%, preferably 4 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably 5 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably 6 wt% to 15 wt%.

[0052] Mineral pigments

[0053] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the present invention are selected from mineral pigments.

[0054] "Mineral pigment" means any pigment that conforms to the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments of the Ullmann’s Encyclopedia. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and iron blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: mixtures of Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0055] The size of the pigments that can be used in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the size of the pigment is characterized in that D50 is greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. The size is determined by means of a commercial MasterSizer from Malvern The particle size analyzer measures by static light diffusion, which enables the particle size distribution of all particles in a wide range from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm to be understood. This data is processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from sub-micron to multi-micron and enables the "effective" diameter of the particles to be determined. This theory is specifically described in the following work by Van de Hulst, H.C.: Van de Hulst, H.C. "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D50 represents the maximum size that 50 vol% of the particles have.

[0056] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide.

[0057] As mineral pigments that can be used in the present invention, nacre can also be cited.

[0058] The term "nacre" should be understood to mean any shaped iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles, which are particularly produced by certain mollusks in their shells or are synthetic and exhibit a color effect through optical interference.

[0059] The nacre can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and titanium mica coated with organic dyes, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. This can also relate to mica particles on the surface of which at least two consecutive metal oxide and / or organic dye layers are superimposed. As an example of nacre, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride can also be mentioned. The nacre can be more particularly yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown and / or copper-colored or iridescent.

[0060] Among the pigments that can be used according to the present invention, mention can also be made of those having optical effects different from simple conventional hue effects (i.e., the uniform and stable effects produced by conventional dyes, such as single-color pigments).

[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, "stable" means that there is no variability effect in the color with respect to the viewing angle or temperature. For example, such materials can be selected from particles having metallic luster, angle-changing colorants, diffraction pigments, thermochromic agents, fluorescent whitening agents, and fibers, particularly interference-type fibers. Of course, according to the present invention, these different materials can be combined together to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0063] Organic pigments

[0064] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment dye is an organic, synthetic or natural pigment or a pigment of natural origin.

[0065] "Organic pigment" means any pigment that conforms to the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in the Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Organic pigments can in particular be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0066] One or more organic pigments can for example be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments coded in the Color Index with numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index with numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments coded in the Color Index with numbers CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index with numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index with numbers CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 2610, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0067] The pigment can also be in the form of a composite pigment as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can in particular consist of particles that include an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0068] The pigment can also be a lacquer.

[0069] The term "lacquer" means an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, and the resulting combination remains insoluble during use.

[0070] The inorganic substrate adsorbed with the dye is, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0071] Among the organic dyes, carmine can be mentioned. Products known under the following names can also be listed: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&D Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 1O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090). As an example of the paint, a product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1) can be listed.

[0072] Non-ionic surfactants

[0073] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0074] Preferably, the HLB of the non-ionic surfactant used in the present invention is greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 12. As is well known, HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) refers to the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The HLB values according to Griffin are defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0075] Alternatively, preferably, the HLB of the non-ionic surfactant used in the present invention is less than 10.

[0076] The non-ionic surfactant can be selected from non-ionic surfactants known from the prior art, particularly selected from fatty acid polyglycerol esters, sugar esters, poloxamers, polysorbates, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] The non-ionic surfactant is preferably selected from fatty acid polyglycerol esters and sugar esters.

[0078] The fatty acid polyglycerol ester preferably contains 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0079] The fatty acid polyglycerol ester is preferably formed from at least one acid and 2 to 10 glycerol units, wherein the above acid contains a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0080] According to one embodiment, the polyglycerol ester according to the present invention is obtained by the esterification of at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and a polyglycerol containing 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0081] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglycerol ester is a monoester or a diester, preferably a monoester.

[0082] The term "polyglycerol" refers to a glycerol polymer which is a straight chain of 2 to 10, preferably 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 glycerol units.

[0083] The esters more particularly contemplated according to the present invention are those obtained by the esterification of polyglycerol and C10-C20, preferably C10, C12 or C18 carboxylic acids (such as capric acid, lauric acid, ricinoleic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid or myristic acid).

[0084] The carboxylic acid can be straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated.

[0085] Preferably, the carboxylic acid is a straight-chain monocarboxylic acid.

[0086] Generally, the ester is derived from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl functional group of polyglycerol with a C10 to C20, preferably C12 to C18, especially C10 to C12 carboxylic acid.

[0087] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid polyglycerol ester is selected from polyglycerol monolaurate containing 5 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol monooleate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono(isostearate) containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol dioleate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol monomyristate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ester is selected from esters of a fatty acid containing 10 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 4 glycerol units, esters of a fatty acid containing 12 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 10 glycerol units, and esters of a fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 2 glycerol units.

[0089] The ester of a fatty acid containing 10 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 4 glycerol units is formed by (i) at least one fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 10 carbon atoms (also called a C10 fatty acid) and (ii) 4 glycerol units.

[0090] Preferably, the C10 fatty acid is saturated and contains a straight-chain alkyl chain. Preferably, the C10 fatty acid is capric acid.

[0091] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ester of a fatty acid containing 10 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 4 glycerol units is polyglycerol monocaprate containing 4 glycerol units, i.e., polyglycerol-4 monocaprate.

[0092] The ester of a fatty acid containing 12 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 10 glycerol units is formed from (i) at least one fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 12 carbon atoms (also referred to as C12 fatty acid) and (ii) 10 glycerol units.

[0093] Preferably, the C12 fatty acid is saturated and contains a straight-chain alkyl chain. Preferably, the C12 fatty acid is lauric acid.

[0094] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ester of a fatty acid containing 12 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 10 glycerol units is polyglycerol monolaurate containing 10 glycerol units, i.e., polyglycerol-10 monolaurate.

[0095] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises a polyglycerol fatty acid ester which is polyglycerol monolaurate having 5 to 6 glycerol units, i.e., polyglycerol-5 monolaurate or polyglycerol-6 monolaurate.

[0096] The ester of a fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 2 glycerol units is formed from (i) at least one fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl chain having 18 carbon atoms (also referred to as C18 fatty acid) and (ii) 2 glycerol units.

[0097] Preferably, the C18 fatty acid is unsaturated and contains a straight-chain alkyl chain. Preferably, the C18 fatty acid is oleic acid.

[0098] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ester of a fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 2 glycerol units is polyglycerol monooleate containing 2 glycerol units, i.e., polyglycerol-2 monooleate.

[0099] Commercial products mainly based on polyglycerol-4 monocaprate or PG-4 caprate are available from Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name TEGOSOFT PC 41.

[0100] Commercial products mainly based on polyglycerol-2 monooleate or PG-2 oleate are available from Taiyo Kagaku under the trade name SUNSOFT Q-17D(G)-C.

[0101] Commercial products mainly based on polyglycerol-10 monolaurate or PG-10 monolaurate are available from Dr Straetmans under the trade name Dermofel G 10L.

[0102] Commercial products based mainly on polyglyceryl-5 laurate or PG-5 laurate are available from Taiyo Kagaku under the trade name obtainable.

[0103] Commercial products based mainly on polyglyceryl-6 laurate or PG-6 laurate are available from Dr Straetmans under the trade name Dermofel G 6L.

[0104] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may also be polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate or polyglyceryl-4 isostearate.

[0105] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one sugar ester.

[0106] "Sugar ester" means an ester of a sugar and a C10-C24 (preferably C12-C20, more preferably C12-C18) fatty acid. "Sugar" means a compound having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0107] As sugars which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of sucrose (or cane sugar), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, such as methylglucose.

[0108] The fatty acid containing 10 to 24 carbon atoms may be straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acid may be selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, behenic acid, coconut acid, linolenic acid, caprylic acid and arachidonic acid, or mixtures thereof, which mixtures in particular give mixed esters of mixed oleopalmitates, oleostearates and palmitostearates, or mixtures thereof. The esters may be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] By way of example, mention may be made of monoesters and diesters, in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, in particular the product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate DO, which is methylglucose dioleate.

[0110] Also mention may be made of mixtures of esters formed by methylglucose and fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate sold by Evonik under the name TegoCare 450.

[0111] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the sugar fatty acid ester is a sucrose fatty acid ester, preferably selected from esters obtained by reacting sucrose (cane sugar) with fatty acids containing 10 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0112] In particular, the sucrose fatty acid esters are selected from esters obtained by reacting sucrose with fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms (such as lauric acid and / or palmitic acid), for example, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

[0113] The sucrose fatty acid esters can be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. Esters with a low degree of esterification are preferably used, such as sucrose fatty acid monoesters, diesters, or triesters or mixtures. The sucrose fatty acid esters can be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, such as a mixture of monoesters and diesters or a mixture of monoesters, diesters, and triesters.

[0114] In the case of using a mixture of sucrose fatty acid esters, the following mixtures are preferred, in which esters with a low degree of esterification, especially monoesters, are in the majority and, for example, account for at least 50 wt%, preferably at least 60 wt% of the mixture of sucrose fatty acid esters.

[0115] As examples of the esters or mixtures of sucrose fatty acid esters, the following can be mentioned:

[0116] - Surfhope SE COSME C-1803, which is a sucrose tristearate and contains about 20% monoesters, and the remainder of the mixture consists of diesters and triesters,

[0117] - Surfhope SE COSME C-1416, which is a sucrose myristate and contains about 80% monoesters, and the remainder of the mixture consists of diesters and triesters,

[0118] - Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, whose INCI name is sucrose laurate, which contains 75% to 90% monoesters, and the remainder of the mixture consists of diesters and triesters,

[0119] - Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L, whose INCI name is sucrose laurate, contains about 70% monoesters, and the remainder of the mixture consists of diesters and other polyesters,

[0120] - Surfhope SE COSME C-1616, which is a mixture of sucrose palmitate and / or stearate (INCI name sucrose palmitate), contains 75% to 90% monoesters, the remainder of the mixture consisting of diesters and triesters, and may include sucrose stearate and sucrose palmitate stearate,

[0121] - An ester with the INCI name sucrose laurate sold by Daiichi Seiyaku under the designation DK ester S-L18A, which ester comprises 70% monoesters and 30% diesters and triesters,

[0122] - Products sold by Crodesta under the names F50, F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40, which products respectively represent sucrose palmitostearates formed from 30% monoesters and 70% polyesters, 73% monoesters and 27% diesters and triesters, 61% monoesters and 39% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, 52% monoesters and 48% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, 45% monoesters and 55% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, 39% monoesters and 61% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, and sucrose monolaurate,

[0123] - A product sold under the name RYOTO sugar ester, which product is identified, for example, as B370 and corresponds to a sugarcane behenate formed from 20% monoesters and 80% diesters, triesters, polyesters, or

[0124] - Sucrose mono-, dipalmitostearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name TEGOSOFT PSE.

[0125] The poloxamers useful in the present invention are block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of the formula:

[0126] HO(C2H4O) x (C3H6O) y (C2H4O) z H

[0127] wherein x, y and z are integers such that the range of x + z is from 2 to 100, the range of y is from 10 to 60, and mixtures thereof, more particularly block copolymers from the range of HLB values from 2 to 16.

[0128] The poloxamers may in particular be selected from poloxamer 184 (a product with x = 13, z = 30, y = 13 in the above formula); poloxamer 231 (a product with x = z = 6, y = 39 in the above formula; HLB 2); poloxamer 282 (a product with x = z = 10, y = 47 in the above formula; HLB 6); and poloxamer 124 (a product with x = z = 11, y = 21 in the above formula; HLB 16).

[0129] Polysorbate is a sorbitan fatty acid ester. Polysorbate can be, in particular, an ester of C-C fatty acid and sorbitan, and an oxyethylated ester of C-C fatty acid and sorbitan. Polysorbate is formed from at least one fatty acid and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol, and the fatty acid contains at least one saturated straight-chain alkyl chain having 16 to 22 carbon atoms respectively. The oxyethylated ester generally contains 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units. These esters can be, in particular, selected from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used. As examples of sorbitan fatty acid esters and oxyethylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold under the name Span 40, sorbitan 20-EO monolaurate (CTFA name: polysorbate 20) sold under the name Tween 20, or sorbitan 20-EO tristearate (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold under the name Tween 65.

[0130] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the nonionic surfactant can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount in the range of 0.01 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.02 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.03 wt% to 8 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.05 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.08 wt% to 4 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.1 wt% to 3 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.5 wt% to 2 wt%.

[0131] According to the invention, the weight ratio between the nonionic surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters and sugar esters and chitosan (i.e., the weight ratio of nonionic surfactant to chitosan) is between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6. Preferably, the weight ratio is between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0132] Physiologically acceptable aqueous medium

[0133] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium. The medium comprises water.

[0134] The water used can be sterile softened water, and / or floral water (such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water), and / or spring water or natural mineral water.

[0135] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition preferably comprises at least 5 wt%, preferably at least 10 wt%, preferably at least 20 wt%, preferably at least 30 wt%, preferably at least 40 wt% of water.

[0136] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition preferably comprises from 5 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably from 10 wt% to 85 wt%, even more preferably from 20 wt% to 80 wt%, even more preferably from 25 wt% to 70 wt%, even more preferably from 28 wt% to 60 wt%, even more preferably from 30 wt% to 50 wt% of water.

[0137] The aqueous phase may further comprise at least one organic solvent miscible with water at 25 °C.

[0138] Preferably, the organic solvent miscible with water is selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C 10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, and butanol.

[0140] The polyols are preferably selected from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isopentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition may comprise from 1 wt% to 25 wt%, more preferably from 2 wt% to 20 wt%, even more preferably from 3 wt% to 15 wt% of the organic solvent miscible with water.

[0142] pH of the composition

[0143] The pH of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, preferably less than or equal to 6.3. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

[0144] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base.

[0145] This base is in particular used to adjust the final pH of the composition between 3 and 6.3.

[0146] The base may be selected from mineral bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide.

[0147] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. This is because these bases are more advantageous (i.e., less yellowing) than nitrogen-containing bases (such as triethanolamine) in terms of color stability.

[0148] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one base in an active substance content range of 0.5 wt% to 10 wt%, particularly 1 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably in the range of 1 wt% to 4 wt%.

[0149] The composition according to the invention can be conventionally obtained by those skilled in the art. Detailed Embodiments

[0150] The following examples will enable a better understanding of the invention without limiting the invention in any way. The raw materials are represented by their chemical names or INCI names. Unless otherwise stated, the amounts shown are weight percentages (% w / w) of the raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] Examples

[0152] Preparation of the composition

[0153] In the following examples, each formulation was prepared according to the following protocol:

[0154] Under mechanical stirring with minimum vortex and at ambient temperature:

[0155] - Disperse chitosan and water under mechanical stirring with minimum vortex,

[0156] - Add an appropriate amount of acid to dissolve chitosan and form a more viscous solution,

[0157] - Add the pigment, then add the polyol (if present), and then add the surfactant.

[0158] - If necessary, the mixture can be passed through a three-roll mill.

[0159] Example 1: Evaluation of the effects of various ingredients

[0160] 1. Prepare formulations F1 to F11.

[0161] Test protocol for film-forming and peelability of the formulated product after deposition

[0162] In an aluminum capsule with a diameter of 9.5 cm, 10 g of the solution is deposited and evenly spread over the entire surface. The deposit is dried on a hot plate at 32 °C for 24 hours. Next, the sample is first evaluated by touch. If the sample is liquid and still sticks to the fingers, the sample is considered unable to form a film. In the case where the sample can form a film, the second evaluation involves separating the sample from the aluminum capsule with a spatula. If the experimenter can do this, it can be said that the deposit is peelable.

[0163] If the appearance of the preparation is fluid and can flow, it can be said that the appearance meets the requirements. If the formulation is solid, or in a gel form or cannot flow, the appearance does not meet the requirements.

[0164] The sensory properties are defined by spreading with a finger over a 2.54 square centimeter square of skin on the arm. If the spreading is not smooth and clearly causes an uneven texture or an irregularity of the brittle solid type, it can be said that the sensory properties do not meet the requirements. If the spreading is smooth, it can be said that the sensory properties meet the requirements.

[0165] In the table: OK = meets the requirements, NO = does not meet the requirements, F5 and F6 = medium.

[0166] The uniformity was described in the visual aspect of the aforementioned film. If the film includes visible thickness non-uniformities, it can be said that the film is non-uniform. If the film has a constant thickness visually, it can be said that the film is uniform.

[0167] [Table 1]

[0168]

[0169]

[0170] In the following table and text:

[0171] AL = lactic acid

[0172] PG10L = PG10 laurate

[0173] Formulations F1 and F2: The minimum dose of chitosan detectable by this test for film formation is 0.1%. An amount of 0.5% enables a peelable film to be obtained.

[0174] Formulation F4: In all cases, chitosan must be present in an amount strictly less than 15 wt%, since the formulation is no longer applicable and the appearance of the composition (overall) is also no longer fluid.

[0175] Formulations F8 to F10: The weight ratio between nonionic surfactant and chitosan is ideally less than or equal to 6 (F9), since beyond this range the deposit is no longer homogeneous (F10), and preferably equal to 4 in order to obtain a very homogeneous film (F8). The inhomogeneity results from the inability to process / mix / apply the resulting material.

[0176] 2. Protocol for evaluating changes in film mechanical properties to improve comfort

[0177] Formulations C1 to C3 and A1, A3 and A4 were prepared.

[0178] In an aluminum capsule with a diameter of 9.5 cm, 10 g of the solution were deposited and spread evenly over the entire surface. The deposit was dried on a hot plate at 32° C. for 24 hours.

[0179] - Use the cutting die to cut three test pieces of 20mm long x 6mm wide.

[0180] -Measure the thickness of the test piece by Palmer micrometer.

[0181] - Place the specimen in the jaws of a Stable Micro Systems TA.XT Plus texturometer and start the measurement to obtain the breaking strength (g) and length (mm) using Exponent software.

[0182] TA setting: speed 0.1 or 0.3 mm / s

[0183] % deformation = elongation / initial size * 100

[0184] =(elongation at break - initial size) / initial size*100

[0185] Stress = Strength (N) / Surface area (m)

[0186] = Strength (g) * g / width * thickness

[0187] [Table 2]

[0188]

[0189] These measurements made it possible to determine the minimum dosage of nonionic surfactant relative to chitosan.Softer films and therefore films with a longer elongation at break improve the comfort of deposition.

[0190] In the absence of surfactant, the chitosan film remained stiff and uncomfortable on the skin (C1).

[0191] The change in film stiffness was evaluated by the above measurements, and it was shown that a softening effect was perceptible when the weight ratio of nonionic surfactant to chitosan was equal to 1:5 (C2). This softness is necessary for comfort.

[0192] Formulation A1 is a comparative example (marked with an asterisk), while formulations A3 and A4 are according to the present invention.

[0193] [Table 9]

[0194]

[0195] Examples A3 and A4 illustrate the effect of surfactants on the flexibility of the film in the presence of pigments.

[0196] Prepare formulations F, G, H, and K according to the present invention.

[0197] Measure the mechanical properties as described above.

[0198] [Table 10]

[0199]

[0200]

[0201] CA = citric acid

[0202] Polox = poloxamer 184, sold by Croda under the name SYNPERONIC PE / L 64-NAA-LQ-(CQ)

[0203] PS20 = polysorbate 20, sold by Croda under the name SP TWEEN 20MBAL-LQ-(CQ)

[0204] sucL = sucrose laurate, sold by MITSUBISHI-KAGAKU FOODS under the name SURFHOPE SE COSMEC-1216

[0205] The results are as follows:

[0206] [Table 11]

[0207]

[0208] Examples F, G, H, and K illustrate the effect of nonionic surfactants, such as poloxamer or polysorbate, on the flexibility of the film in the presence of pigments. Example K further illustrates that citric acid (AHA) can be used instead of lactic acid.

[0209] 3. Protocol for evaluating rubbing resistance during drying

[0210] According to the protocol detailed below, the rub resistance of some compositions was evaluated by colorimetric measurements of the dry film before and after abrasion.

[0211] Protocol for spreading the composition into a film

[0212] The product was spread on a spreading workbench (Elcometer 4340 coater), which allows adjustment of the spreading speed and the distance over which spreading takes place. The workbench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump so that the support on which spreading is carried out does not move. A control chart with an unpainted black background and a white background (1 byko chart, uncoated N2A, coded 2831) was used. As for the spreading thickness, this can be adjusted by means of a square spreader placed on the support so that spreading takes place by levelling when the platform is started. Each edge of the spreader allows spreading at different thicknesses in the range of 25 μm to 200 μm. The thickness chosen was 50 μm to approximate the thickness of the in vivo film. During spreading, a weight of 960 g was added on top of the spreader. The spreading speed was adjusted to 1 inch / second, i.e., 2.54 cm / second. The film was dried for 24 hours at ambient temperature and humidity (50% RH).

[0213] [Table 3]

[0214]

[0215] The comparative composition could not be spread for subsequent contrast (CR) testing as it was considered that the comparative composition would undergo dehumidification. This dehumidification would result in non-uniform deposition. Thus, due to dehumidification, the formulation did not meet the criteria for solving the technical problems of uniformity and coverage.

[0216] On the other hand, the compositions according to the invention have good wetting properties.

[0217] Protocol for measuring contrast ratio (CR) to specify coverage

[0218] Color was measured using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Contactless measurement ensured no light pollution.

[0219] Selected settings: aperture 8 mm; uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; geometry d / 8°.

[0220] Color measurements of the two backgrounds (black background BB and white background WB) allowed the coverage of the cosmetic foundation to be characterized by calculating the contrast (CR%), i.e., YBB / YWB x 100, where YBB and YWB are the luminance values measured on the black and white backgrounds respectively, and the higher this value, the more the cosmetic foundation covers.

[0221] Formulation F12 is according to the present invention, while formulations F13 to F16 are for comparison.

[0222] [Table 4]

[0223]

[0224]

[0225] In order to achieve a minimum coverage of 50%, it is necessary to have at least 3% pigment.

[0226] [Table 5]

[0227]

[0228] Formulations F19 to F21 are according to the present invention, while formulations F17 to F18 are for comparison.

[0229] Only formulations F19 to F21 are formulations that are significantly different from F17 (reference without chitosan) in terms of sediment coverage.

[0230] Test protocol for rubbing resistance

[0231] The abrasion resistance test was carried out by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion was carried out by attaching a fabric handkerchief strip ( Veraclean TM Polish Plus) at 25 μm on the edge of the spreader. During abrasion, a weight of 960 g was added on top of the spreader. The table speed was set at 2.54 cm / s.

[0232] The color measurements before and after abrasion were carried out using the same spectrophotometric method as explained previously.

[0233] To evaluate the abrasion resistance, the contrast before abrasion (CR dry deposition, %) and after abrasion (CR dry friction deposition, %) were measured separately.

[0234] The loss expressed as a percentage [(CR dry friction deposition - CR dry deposition) / CR dry deposition]*100 quantifies the loss of coverage and indicates the resistance of the film to abrasion: the smaller the loss, the more abrasion-resistant the film.

[0235] Therefore, each CR value in the following table represents the average of 6 measurements.

[0236] [Table 6]

[0237] Formulation % loss of CR F17 23.8±2 F18 26.3±1 F19 (the present invention) 0±1 F20 (the present invention) -0.3±1 F21 (the present invention) -0.3±1

[0238] Only formulations F19 to F21 are formulations without loss of coverage.

[0239] [Table 7]

[0240]

[0241] Formulations F25 to F28 are according to the present invention, while formulations F22 to F24 are for comparison.

[0242] Only formulations F25 to F28 are formulations with no loss of coverage (i.e., the coverage loss is significantly smaller, i.e., the loss does not exceed 6%).

[0243] Oil rubbing resistance test

[0244] The test consisted of spreading 15 μL of the formulation over a circular area on the forearm with a diameter of 4 cm and allowing the deposit to dry for 20 minutes. At the same time, 100 μL of oil (tricaprylin) was deposited on a fabric handkerchief strip ( Veraclean TM Polish Plus). Next, the handkerchief was rubbed with an axial force of 200 - 300 g, and the stain on the handkerchief was evaluated. A score of 5 / 5 for the positive bound corresponded to a paper towel that left no stain, while if the paper towel was completely colored, the score was 1 / 5.

[0245] [Table 8]

[0246]

[0247] Under these conditions, the performance of the composition according to the present invention obtained a score of 3 / 5. It can be seen that chitosan improved the oil rubbing resistance of the deposit.

[0248] Example 2: Comparative data

[0249] A composition (emulsion foundation) similar to Example 11 of JP-H10-265337 was prepared as follows (% w / w), designated as HI* (outside the present invention):

[0250] PG-10 laurate 9.00

[0251] Purified water Qsp 100

[0252] Red pigment 10.7

[0253] Lactic acid 0.15

[0254] Chitosan (molecular weight 100 kDa) 0.01 (% active substance)

[0255] The weight ratio between the non-ionic surfactant and chitosan in the composition was 9 / 0.01 = 900.

[0256] Prepare a composition that is the same but contains 1 wt% chitosan (the present invention; weight ratio between non-ionic surfactant and chitosan = 1 / 1 = 1).

[0257] Measure the rubbing resistance as detailed in Example 1. The results are as follows:

[0258] [Table 9]

[0259]

[0260] This indicates that, compared with the prior art, the claimed weight ratio between the non-ionic surfactant and chitosan can significantly improve the rubbing resistance.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) at least 0.01 wt% of natural chitosan with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, calculated as a proportion of the total weight of the composition, this amount being strictly less than 15 wt%, b) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, c) a pigmentary colorant in an amount of 3% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition, and d) a non-ionic surfactant, wherein the weight ratio between the non-ionic surfactant and the chitosan is between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises from 0.01 wt% to 14 wt%, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 14%, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 12%, preferably from 0.2 wt% to 7 wt%, and preferably from 0.25 wt% to 5 wt% of natural chitosan.

3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The natural chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa, preferably between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 150 kDa; and / or the degree of acetylation of the chitosan is less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The chitosan is extracted and purified from a food or biotechnological fungal source, such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger, preferably from Aspergillus niger.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyl lactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid and 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyl lactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; hydroxypropanedioic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts, and mixtures thereof; more particularly, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, Relative to the total weight of the composition, the alpha-hydroxy acid is present in an amount in the range of 0.001 wt% to 10 wt%, 0.005 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The dye is selected from powder dyes, such as mineral pigments, nacre and organic pigments; the mineral pigment is preferably iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The non-ionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters and sugar esters.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The non-ionic surfactant is selected from esters obtained by esterifying polyglycerol and C10-C20 carboxylic acids, preferably C10, C12 or C18 carboxylic acids, such as capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid or myristic acid; the esters are preferably selected from polyglycerol monolaurate containing 5 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol monooleate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono(isostearate) containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol dioleate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol monomyristate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof; the esters are preferably selected from polyglycerol-4 monocaprate, polyglycerol-10 monolaurate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate and polyglycerol-2 monooleate.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The non-ionic surfactant is selected from esters formed by sugars and C10-C24 fatty acids, preferably esters formed by sugars and C12-C20 fatty acids, more preferably C12-C18 fatty acids, and is preferably selected from mixtures of esters formed by fatty acids and methyl glucoside.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, Relative to the total weight of the composition, the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.02 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.03 wt% to 8 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.05 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.08 wt% to 4 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.1 wt% to 3 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.5 wt% to 2 wt%.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The weight ratio between the non-ionic surfactant and chitosan is between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises at least 30 wt%, preferably at least 40 wt%, preferably 30 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably 40 wt% to 90 wt%, even more preferably 45 wt% to 85 wt% of water; and optionally at least one water-miscible organic solvent, the water-miscible organic solvent is preferably selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, preferably, the solvent is selected from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isopentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The pH of the composition is less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, preferably less than or equal to 6.3, advantageously between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

15. A method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or keratin appendages, wherein, The composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to the skin and / or the keratinous appendages.

Citation Information

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