Pattern making method of collar with filler and collar

Abstract

The invention discloses a plate making method of a collar with filler, which comprises the following steps of: designing a parting line and a plurality of rhombic dart on a basic template of a collar lining, and then dividing the basic template of the collar lining into two parts, namely a template of a collar lining body and a template of a collar lining splicing area according to the position of the parting line and the size and position of the rhombic dart; through the deformation treatment, the three-dimensional cutting of the collar is optimized, so that a finished product is attractive, three-dimensional, naturally bent and in accordance with ergonomics, and the problem that the collar linings are large in quantity is effectively solved. According to the collar, the under collar comprises the under collar body and the under collar splicing part which are sewn together, and the fabric of the under collar splicing part is changed into the warm-keeping knitted fabric, so that the part, in contact with the skin, of the collar is more warm-keeping and comfortable, and the wearing comfort is improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of clothing production, in particular to a plate making method for a collar with a filler and the collar. Background Art

[0002] Traditional collars with fillings (such as the collars of cotton and down jackets) are made according to the same pattern of collar surface 1a and collar lining 1b (such as Figure 1 As shown in the figure, after sewing, the collar contains fillings and its thickness increases. When it is presented as a finished garment, the length difference between the inner and outer circles of the arc-shaped collar (i.e. the collar lining and the collar surface) increases, resulting in the lining being piled up, destroying the three-dimensionality of the collar. In addition, the collar lining is mostly made of woven fabrics such as polyester fiber, some of which are close to the skin, affecting the comfort of wearing the clothes. Summary of the Invention

[0003] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for making a collar with filling and a collar made by using the method. The collar is beautiful and three-dimensional, conforms to ergonomics, effectively improves the problem of excessive collar lining, and the part of the collar that contacts the skin is made of comfortable and warm fabric to improve wearing comfort.

[0004] In order to achieve the above object, the solution of the present invention is: A method for making a pattern of a collar with a filler, comprising the following steps: Step 1: Make the basic pattern of collar lining and collar surface: First, determine the width of the front neckline of the collar lining and the collar surface, the length of the top of the collar, and the length of the collar loop, and complete the cutting of the basic patterns of the collar lining and the collar surface; Step 2: Determine the dividing line of the basic pattern of the collar: Then, draw a dividing line along the front neckline and the top of the collar on the basic pattern of the collar lining, dividing the basic pattern of the collar lining into the collar lining body and the collar lining splicing area. The distance between the two ends of this dividing line and the corresponding front neckline is 5 to 7 cm respectively, and the distance between the upper middle part of this dividing line and the top of the collar is 2 to 3 cm. Step 3: Cut out the redundant parts of the base pattern of the collar: Then fold the collar lining base pattern in half along the center line, draw three or more longitudinal diamond darts on the collar lining base pattern at the positions corresponding to the collar lining splicing area, and cut the folded collar lining base pattern into sections along the shape dividing line and the outer contours of the longitudinal diamond darts to obtain several collar lining body patterns and several collar lining splicing area patterns. The cut longitudinal diamond darts are the redundant parts. Step 4: Reassemble and splice the sample of the collar body; Then, reassemble and splice the segmented collar body pieces according to their positional relationship before segmentation, straighten them, and open them along the center line to obtain a complete collar body pattern. Step 5: Reassemble and splice the pattern in the collar stitching area; Finally, the pattern pieces of the collar lining splicing area after segmentation are reassembled and spliced ​​according to the position relationship before segmentation, straightened, and opened along the center line to obtain a complete pattern of the collar lining splicing area.

[0005] The basic pattern of the collar surface and the basic pattern of the collar lining are both paper patterns.

[0006] In step 2, the distance between the two ends of the shape dividing line and the corresponding front neckline is 6.5 cm respectively, and the distance between the upper middle part of the shape dividing line and the upper end of the collar is 2.5 cm.

[0007] In step 3, there are 3 longitudinal diamond darts. First, draw a first longitudinal diamond dart at the position of the basic shoulder seam of the body corresponding to the basic pattern of the collar lining. Then, determine the second longitudinal diamond dart at the middle position between the first longitudinal diamond dart and the front side of the shape dividing line. Finally, determine the third longitudinal diamond dart at the middle position between the first longitudinal diamond dart and the center line.

[0008] In step 3, a gap D1 is formed between the tops of each of the longitudinal diamond-shaped darts, the distance between the two middle endpoints of each of the longitudinal diamond-shaped darts is D2, and a gap D3 is formed between the bottoms of each of the longitudinal diamond-shaped darts. The size relationship of D1, D2 and D3 is D1<D3<D2.

[0009] A collar comprises a collar surface and a collar lining sewn together, and a filler filled between the collar surface and the collar lining, wherein the collar surface is cut according to a basic collar surface pattern, and the collar lining comprises a collar lining body and a collar lining splicing portion sewn together, wherein the collar lining body is cut according to a collar lining body pattern, and the collar lining splicing portion is cut according to a collar lining splicing area pattern, and the fabric of the collar lining splicing portion is a warm knitted fabric.

[0010] The fabrics of the collar surface and the collar lining body are both woven fabrics.

[0011] The filling material is cotton or down.

[0012] After adopting the above technical solution, the present invention provides a method for making a pattern of a collar with filling, by designing a dividing line and multiple diamond darts on the basic pattern of the collar lining, and then dividing the basic pattern of the collar lining into two parts, a pattern of the collar lining body and a pattern of the collar lining splicing area, according to the position of the dividing line and the size and position of the diamond darts, removing redundant parts, and optimizing the three-dimensional tailoring of the collar through this deformation processing, so that the finished product is beautiful, three-dimensional, naturally curved, and ergonomic, effectively improving the problem of excessive collar lining.

[0013] Generally speaking, the present invention provides a method for making a pattern of a collar with filling, and the collar shape obtained by combining pattern structure optimization with sewing technology is used to solve the problems of collar lining volume and warmth and comfort of a stand-up collar with filling, while having a better three-dimensional effect.

[0014] In addition, the present invention provides a collar, wherein the collar lining comprises a collar lining body and a collar lining splicing portion sewn together, and the fabric of the collar lining splicing portion is replaced with a warm knitted fabric, so that the part of the collar in contact with the skin is warmer and more comfortable, thereby improving the wearing comfort. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0015] Figure 1 This is a diagram of a traditional padded collar in use; Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the structure of the basic template in the present invention; Figure 3 This is a structural diagram of a collar of the present invention with a basic template having a shape dividing line (after folding in half); Figure 4 Schematic diagram of cutting the basic template of the collar of the present invention; Figure 5 This is a schematic structural diagram of a sample of the collar body of the present invention; Figure 6 This is a schematic structural diagram of a sample of the collar splicing area of ​​the present invention; Figure 7 Another structural diagram of the basic template of the collar of the present invention with a shape dividing line (after folding in half); Figure 8 The figure is a schematic structural diagram of a collar of the present invention.

[0016] In the picture: Basic pattern of collar lining 1; shape dividing line 2; Collar lining body 3; Collar lining splicing area 4; 5 longitudinal diamond darts; first longitudinal diamond dart 51; Second longitudinal diamond dart 52; Third longitudinal diamond dart 53; Sample 6 of the collar lining body; Sample 7 of the collar lining splicing area; Collar body 81; collar splicing portion 82; Collar surface 1a; Collar lining 1b. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0017] In order to further explain the technical solution of the present invention, the present invention is described in detail below through specific embodiments.

[0018] A method for making a pattern of a collar with a filler, comprising the following steps: Step 1: Make the basic pattern of collar lining and collar surface: like Figure 2 As shown, first determine the width of the front neckline of the collar lining and the collar surface, the length of the collar top, and the length of the collar loop according to the size of the garment, complete the cutting of the basic pattern 1 of the collar lining and the basic pattern of the collar surface, and obtain the basic pattern as a paper pattern; Step 2: Determine the dividing line of the basic pattern of the collar: Then draw a shape dividing line 2 along the front neckline and the top of the collar on the basic pattern 1 of the collar, as shown in the following figure: Figure 3 As shown, the basic pattern 1 of the collar lining is divided into the collar lining body 3 and the collar lining splicing area 4. The distance between the two ends of this shape dividing line 2 and the corresponding front neckline is 5 to 7 cm, preferably 6.5 cm. The distance between the upper middle part of this shape dividing line 2 and the upper end of the collar is 2 to 3 cm, preferably 2.5 cm. This shape dividing line 2 is U-shaped with the opening facing downwards. Step 3: Cut out the redundant parts of the base pattern of the collar: Then fold the basic pattern 1 of the collar lining in half along the center line, and draw three or more longitudinal diamond darts 5 on the basic pattern 1 of the collar lining at the position corresponding to the collar lining splicing area 4, as shown in the figure below. Figure 4 As shown, the folded basic pattern 1 of the collar lining is cut into sections along the shape dividing line 2 and the outer contour of the longitudinal diamond dart 5 to obtain a plurality of collar lining body pieces and a plurality of collar lining splicing area pieces. The cut longitudinal diamond dart 5 is the redundant part. Step 4: Reassemble and splice the sample of the collar body; Then reassemble and splice the segmented collar body pieces according to their positional relationship before segmentation, straighten them, and open them along the center line to obtain a complete collar body pattern 6. Figure 5 As shown; Step 5: Reassemble and splice the pattern in the collar stitching area; Finally, reassemble and splice the pieces of the collar and lining splicing area after segmentation according to the position relationship before segmentation, straighten them, and open them along the center line to obtain a complete collar and lining splicing area pattern 7. Figure 6 shown.

[0019] Further, if Figure 7As shown, in step 3, the number of longitudinal diamond darts 5 is determined according to the length of the basic pattern 1 of the collar lining. Preferably, the number of longitudinal diamond darts 5 is 3. First, a first longitudinal diamond dart 51 is drawn at the position of the basic shoulder seam of the body corresponding to the basic pattern 1 of the collar lining. Then, the second longitudinal diamond dart 52 is determined at the middle position between the first longitudinal diamond dart 51 and the front side of the shape dividing line 2. Finally, the third longitudinal diamond dart 53 is determined at the middle position between the first longitudinal diamond dart 51 and the center line.

[0020] Furthermore, the shape of each longitudinal diamond dart 5 is similar to a diamond, the top of each longitudinal diamond dart 5 is located at the upper end of the collar and forms a gap D1, the distance between the two middle end points of each longitudinal diamond dart 5 is D2, and the bottom of each longitudinal diamond dart is located at the collar and forms a gap D3. The size relationship of D1, D2 and D3 is D1<D3<D2.

[0021] This is because the collar body is generally made of inelastic woven fabric, and the longitudinal diamond darts of pattern 6 close to the collar body have less redundancy, while the collar splicing area is generally made of knitted fabric with good elasticity, and the longitudinal diamond darts in pattern 7 located in the collar splicing area have more redundancy, thereby ensuring that the obtained pattern 6 of the collar body and the pattern 7 of the collar splicing area can be adapted to each other, and the product consistency is good.

[0022] Furthermore, the distance between the line connecting the two middle end points of each longitudinal rhombus 5 and the collar is 4 to 5 cm.

[0023] Furthermore, the D2 value of the first longitudinal diamond dart 51 is greater than the D2 values ​​of the second and third longitudinal diamond darts. Specifically, for example, if the collar lining is reduced by 3 cm in a full circle and a half circle is calculated as 1.5 cm, then the D2 value of the first longitudinal diamond dart 51 is 0.7 cm, and the D2 values ​​of the second and third longitudinal diamond darts 52 and 53 are 0.4 cm, respectively.

[0024] A collar, such as Figure 8 As shown, it includes a collar surface and a collar lining sewn together, and a filler filled between the collar surface and the collar lining. The collar surface is made of woven fabric and cut according to the basic pattern of the collar surface. The collar lining includes a collar lining body 81 and a collar lining splicing part 82 sewn together. The collar lining body 81 is made of woven fabric and cut according to the pattern 6 of the collar lining body. The collar lining splicing part 82 is made of warm knitted fabric and cut according to the pattern 7 of the collar lining splicing area. The cut collar lining body 81, the collar lining splicing part 82 and the collar surface are sewn together, and the filler is stuffed to obtain the collar, which is beautiful, three-dimensional, naturally curved, ergonomic, warm and comfortable.

[0025] Furthermore, the filling material is cotton or down.

[0026] The above embodiments and drawings do not limit the product form and style of the present invention. Any appropriate changes or modifications made by ordinary technicians in the relevant technical field should be deemed to be within the patent scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for making a pattern of a collar with a filling, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: Step 1: Make the basic pattern of collar lining and collar surface: First, determine the width of the front neckline of the collar lining and the collar surface, the length of the top of the collar, and the length of the collar loop, and complete the cutting of the basic patterns of the collar lining and the collar surface; Step 2: Determine the dividing line of the basic pattern of the collar: Then draw a dividing line along the front neckline and the top of the collar on the basic pattern of the collar lining, dividing the basic pattern of the collar lining into the collar lining body and the collar lining splicing area. The distance between the two ends of this dividing line and the corresponding front neckline is 5 to 7 cm respectively, and the distance between the upper middle part of this dividing line and the top of the collar is 2 to 3 cm. Step 3: Cut out the redundant parts of the base pattern of the collar: Then fold the collar lining base pattern in half along the center line, draw three or more longitudinal diamond darts on the collar lining base pattern at the positions corresponding to the collar lining splicing area, and cut the folded collar lining base pattern into sections along the shape dividing line and the outer contours of the longitudinal diamond darts to obtain several collar lining body patterns and several collar lining splicing area patterns. The cut longitudinal diamond darts are the redundant parts. Step 4: Reassemble and splice the sample of the collar body; Then, reassemble and splice the segmented collar body pieces according to their positional relationship before segmentation, straighten them, and open them along the center line to obtain a complete collar body pattern. Step 5: Reassemble and splice the pattern in the collar stitching area; Finally, the pattern pieces of the collar lining splicing area after segmentation are reassembled and spliced ​​according to the position relationship before segmentation, straightened, and opened along the center line to obtain a complete pattern of the collar lining splicing area.

2. The method for making a pattern of a collar with a filling according to claim 1, characterized in that: The basic pattern of the collar surface and the basic pattern of the collar lining are both paper patterns.

3. The method for making a pattern of a collar with a filling according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 2, the distance between the two ends of the shape dividing line and the corresponding front neckline is 6.5 cm respectively, and the distance between the upper middle part of the shape dividing line and the upper end of the collar is 2.5 cm.

4. The method for making a pattern of a collar with a filling according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 3, there are 3 longitudinal diamond darts. First, draw a first longitudinal diamond dart at the position of the basic shoulder seam of the body corresponding to the basic pattern of the collar lining. Then, determine the second longitudinal diamond dart at the middle position between the first longitudinal diamond dart and the front side of the shape dividing line. Finally, determine the third longitudinal diamond dart at the middle position between the first longitudinal diamond dart and the center line.

5. The method for making a pattern of a collar with a filling according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 3, a gap D1 is formed between the tops of each of the longitudinal diamond-shaped darts, the distance between the two middle endpoints of each of the longitudinal diamond-shaped darts is D2, and a gap D3 is formed between the bottoms of each of the longitudinal diamond-shaped darts. The size relationship of D1, D2 and D3 is D1<D3<D2.

6. A collar comprising a collar surface and a collar lining sewn together, and a filler filled between the collar surface and the collar lining, wherein the collar surface is cut according to the basic collar surface pattern described in claim 1, and the collar lining comprises a collar lining body and a collar lining splicing portion sewn together, the collar lining body is cut according to the collar lining body pattern described in claim 1, and the collar lining splicing portion is cut according to the collar lining splicing area pattern described in claim 1, and the fabric of the collar lining splicing portion is a warm knitted fabric.

7. A collar according to claim 6, characterized in that: The fabrics of the collar surface and the collar lining body are both woven fabrics.

8. The collar according to claim 6, characterized in that: The filling material is cotton or down.

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