An ancient broad-warp silk weaving machine and its weaving process

Abstract

The application discloses an ancient wide-width weft brocade loom, which is made by removing the later additional components which are not consistent with the technical features of the Tang Dynasty from a Zru frame loom in central and western Asia as a mother model and is subjected to late periodization modification, and comprises a rack, an opening mechanism, a beating-up mechanism, a weft insertion mechanism, a warp feeding and take-up mechanism and 1-N handle jacquard devices. Compared with the prior art, the application has the advantages that the ancient wide-width weft brocade loom is systematically restored, the loom structure is designed to be consistent with the weaving technical features of the Tang Dynasty, the structure and linkage mode of each mechanism are adapted to the weaving requirements of the wide-width weft brocade, and the blank of the entity restoration of the loom is filled.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of wide-width weft brocade weaving technology, specifically to an ancient wide-width weft brocade loom and its weaving process. Background Technology

[0002] In the early stages of brocade weaving, warp brocade was the main type. Warp brocade was woven using multi-harness looms, which created colorful fabrics by changing the layers of warp threads. However, the shape of the multi-harness loom and the number of heddles had inherent limitations, which made the color change of warp brocade fabrics less flexible, the warp repeat length of the pattern was shorter, and the warp threads at the pattern positions were prone to not being tightly covered.

[0003] From the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the weft brocade weaving technology gradually developed. Weft brocade relies on the color change of the weft threads to achieve the pattern. The color change is highly flexible, which can make the colors of the fabric pattern richer. Moreover, the coarse and loose characteristics of the weft threads make the color coverage more solid and the surface effect of the fabric more saturated. It is more suitable for weaving large-scale repeating patterns. Since the Tang Dynasty, twill weft brocade has gradually become the mainstream of brocade weaving, replacing the position of warp brocade.

[0004] The jacquard weaving technique of twill weft brocade is the key to the transformation of brocade from warp brocade to weft brocade. However, in the existing technology, research on this type of weaving technique is relatively lacking. There are no complete replicas of weft brocade looms with full width, nor are there corresponding restoration schemes for weft brocade fabric processes.

[0005] Existing technologies include research on weaving processes and supporting equipment for fabrics such as brocade velvet, wide satin, solid brocade yarn, and sesame yarn. Some technologies have made targeted modifications to traditional looms, while others have constructed standardized weaving processes, enabling large-scale production or process reconstruction of corresponding traditional fabrics. However, the above technologies are all focused on specific fabrics and do not involve the reconstruction of wide plain or twill weft brocade looms, nor have they formed a weaving process system adapted to wide weft brocade, thus failing to meet the needs of restoration weaving and research of wide weft brocade. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide an ancient wide-width weft brocade loom and its weaving process, addressing the shortcomings mentioned in the background art.

[0007] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the technical solution provided by this invention is as follows: an ancient wide-width weft brocade loom, which is made by modifying the Zru frame loom of Central and West Asia as the prototype and removing later-added components that are inconsistent with the technical characteristics of the Tang Dynasty; the loom includes a frame, a shedding mechanism, a beat-up mechanism, a weft insertion mechanism, a warp feed and take-up mechanism, and 1-N hanging jacquard devices, all of which work together to achieve wide-width weft brocade weaving; the 1-N hanging jacquard devices are composed of pattern pull lines and pattern heddle fibers, and the pattern pull lines are connected to the warp yarns through the pattern heddle fibers, so that a single pattern pull line controls the synchronous and regular lifting of multiple warp yarns; the shedding mechanism is equipped with 2-3 ground heddles, which are suitable for plain weave or three-end twill weave; the warp feed and take-up mechanism adopts a passive warp beam release method, and the warp beam release and fabric take-up are carried out synchronously.

[0008] Furthermore, the frame of the machine is made of hardwood, and the moving parts of the machine are made of softwood; the weft insertion mechanism is a toothed rake or a weft insertion knife, which can ensure uniform weft insertion force; the weft insertion mechanism adopts the through-weft insertion method, and both the ground weft and the patterned weft are wound by small wefts.

[0009] Furthermore, the warp yarns are threaded through the heddles of the hanging jacquard device (1-N) in sequence, and through the heddles of the ground heddles of the opening mechanism. The heddles are used to lift the warp yarns of the patterned part to form the pattern opening, and the ground heddles are used to form the regular opening of the ground structure. The heddle fibers are arranged in a repeating or symmetrical pattern to expand the pattern cycle.

[0010] A wide-width weft brocade weaving process includes the following steps:

[0011] (1) Target fabric analysis and restoration design: Analyze the archaeological information of the target weft brocade fabric, determine the fabric specifications, draw the fabric structure diagram, and clarify the ground structure and pattern display rules;

[0012] (2) Drawing the design diagram: Enlarge the target fabric pattern and transfer it to the special design grid paper. Fill in the pattern according to the color area. Each vertical grid of the design grid paper corresponds to a single warp or a group of warp yarns, and each horizontal grid corresponds to a group of weft yarns. Distinguish between ground weft and weft pattern.

[0013] (3) Determine the machine parameters: Calculate and determine the total number of warp ends, warp yarn arrangement, and weft yarn arrangement cycle parameters of the fabric, and draw the machine diagram including the weave diagram and the heddle diagram;

[0014] (4) Trial weaving and adjustment: Trial weaving is carried out on the restored loom. The warp tension, the synchronization of the pattern heddle and the ground heddle linkage, and the weft insertion force are adjusted. Small samples are repeatedly weaved and the process parameters are corrected until the structure, density, pattern and appearance of the trial fabric are basically consistent with the design target.

[0015] (5) On-machine weaving implementation: pick up the pattern according to the design drawing, lift the corresponding pattern horizontal line and ground heddle and maintain its pulled state with auxiliary tools, after weft insertion, complete the weft beat-up, and complete the weaving according to the colors in the horizontal grid. When weaving the next horizontal grid, change the ground heddle to form the ground structure, and repeat the cycle to complete the fabric weaving.

[0016] Furthermore, in step (5), the auxiliary heddle hook behind the machine is used to maintain the heddle in the pulled-up state, and the auxiliary heddle hook behind the machine is used to maintain the ground heddle in the pulled-up state; weft insertion is to pass the corresponding color weft thread through the opening formed by the ground heddle and the pattern heddle, and weft insertion is completed by weft insertion knife or toothed rake.

[0017] Furthermore, in step (1), the fabric specifications include the front and back of the fabric, warp and weft directions, warp and weft density, yarn twist and thickness, raw material, color and fading condition, fabric weight and thickness; the archaeological information includes the archaeological age of the target fabric, the place of excavation, the identity of the tomb owner, coexisting artifacts and weaving background.

[0018] Furthermore, in step (5), the weft yarn includes the ground weft and the patterned weft of each color. The patterned weft of the corresponding color is selected in sequence according to the color rules of the design drawing, and the ground weft is used to complete the weft insertion and weft beating operations until the weaving of all colors in the same horizontal grid is completed.

[0019] Furthermore, the loom can be adapted to weave wide-width brocades of different styles from the Tang Dynasty by changing the pattern, adjusting the order of heddle lifting, and changing the weft yarns, thus achieving adaptive weaving of different brocade fabrics.

[0020] With the above structure, the present invention has the following advantages: The present invention has completed the systematic restoration of the ancient wide-width weft brocade loom, the designed loom structure conforms to the weaving technology characteristics of the Tang Dynasty, and the structure and linkage mode of each mechanism are adapted to the weaving needs of wide-width weft brocade, filling the gap in the physical restoration of this type of loom.

[0021] This invention constructs a complete wide-width weft brocade weaving process that matches the restoration loom, forming a closed-loop process from target fabric analysis and design drawing to trial weaving and formal weaving, realizing the precise restoration weaving of wide-width, large-scale cyclic weft brocade.

[0022] The restoration loom of the present invention has good adaptability. It can realize the weaving of wide-width brocades of different styles from the Tang and Liao dynasties by simply changing the pattern, adjusting the order of ground heddles, and changing the weft yarns. No modification to the main structure of the loom is required, and it can adapt to the restoration research needs of different brocade fabrics.

[0023] The weaving process of this invention includes a trial weaving and adjustment stage, which allows for the correction of process parameters through trial weaving samples. This effectively ensures the consistency between the restored fabric and the target fabric in terms of structure, density, and pattern, thereby improving the accuracy of weft-knitted restoration weaving.

[0024] The restored loom and matching weaving process of this invention can serve as an experimental platform for the study of the history of textile technology, providing physical and technological support for the research of wide-width weft brocade weaving technology. It can also be used to display and pass on ancient weaving techniques, allowing users to intuitively understand the weaving principles and operation process of ancient weft brocade. Attached Figure Description

[0025] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the structure of an ancient wide-width weft brocade loom.

[0026] Figure 2 A schematic diagram of the structure of an ancient wide-width weft brocade loom.

[0027] Figure 3 This is a diagram of an ancient wide-width twill weaving technique. Detailed Implementation

[0028] The present invention will now be described in further detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0029] Combined with appendix Figure 1-3 An ancient wide-width weft brocade loom and its weaving process are described below. The loom's structure and weaving process are described below. The two are matched and work together to restore the weaving of wide-width weft brocade. The two schemes are described in detail below.

[0030] (I) Ancient wide-width brocade loom

[0031] This loom is based on the Zulu frame loom from Central and West Asia, and has been modified to remove later additions that are inconsistent with Tang Dynasty technology. The loom consists of a frame, sheathing mechanism, beat-up mechanism, weft insertion mechanism, warp feed and take-up mechanism, and 1-N hanging jacquard devices. These mechanisms work together to achieve the weaving of wide-width brocade. The specific structural design of each mechanism is as follows:

[0032] Frame: The frame of the machine is made of hardwood, while the moving parts of the frame are made of softwood, adapting to the movement and structural support requirements of various parts of the loom.

[0033] 1-N hanging jacquard device: It consists of pattern pull lines and pattern heddle fibers. The pattern pull lines are connected to the warp yarns through the pattern heddle fibers, which can realize the synchronous and regular lifting of multiple warp yarns by a single pattern pull line. The pattern heddle fibers are arranged in a repeating or symmetrical pattern, which can expand the pattern cycle range and meet the weaving needs of large repeating patterns.

[0034] Shedding mechanism: Equipped with 2-3 heddles, suitable for plain weave or three-end twill weave, and can form a regular shedding of the ground weave.

[0035] Weft insertion mechanism: It adopts a toothed rake or weft insertion knife structure, which can ensure uniform weft insertion force and ensure the consistency of fabric weaving density.

[0036] Weft insertion mechanism: It adopts the through-weft insertion method, with both ground weft and pattern weft being wound by small spools, which is suitable for color changing and weft insertion operations of weft threads.

[0037] Warp feed and take-up mechanism: It adopts a passive warp beam unloading method, and the warp beam unloading and fabric take-up are carried out synchronously to achieve stable delivery of warp yarns and orderly take-up of fabric.

[0038] The warp yarns are threaded through the heddles of the hanging jacquard device (number 1-N) in sequence, and then through the ground heddles of the opening mechanism. The pattern heddles are used to lift the warp yarns in the pattern section to form the pattern opening, while the ground heddles are used to form the regular opening of the ground structure. The two work together to achieve the coordinated weaving of the pattern and the ground.

[0039] This loom can be adapted to weave wide-width brocades of different styles from the Tang and Liao dynasties by changing the pattern, adjusting the order of the ground heddles, and changing the weft yarns, thus achieving adaptable weaving of different brocade fabrics.

[0040] (II) Wide-width weft brocade weaving technology based on the above-mentioned ancient wide-width weft brocade loom

[0041] This process is based on a restored wide-width weft brocade loom, forming a complete flow from target fabric analysis to finished fabric weaving, specifically including the following steps:

[0042] Target fabric analysis and restoration design: Collect archaeological information on the target weft brocade fabric, determine the fabric specifications, and draw fabric structure diagrams through analysis to clarify the ground structure and pattern display rules; among which, the archaeological information includes the archaeological age of the target fabric, the excavation site, the identity of the tomb owner, coexisting artifacts and weaving background, and the fabric specifications include the front and back of the fabric, warp and weft directions, warp and weft density, yarn twist and thickness, raw material, color and fading status, fabric weight and thickness.

[0043] Drawing the design diagram: Enlarge the pattern of the target fabric and transfer it to a special design grid paper, and fill it in according to the color area; each vertical grid of the design grid paper corresponds to a single warp yarn or a group of warp yarns, and each horizontal grid corresponds to a group of weft yarns, and make a clear distinction between the ground weft and the weft pattern.

[0044] Determine the machine parameters: Based on the parameters and design of the target fabric, calculate and determine the total number of warp ends, warp yarn arrangement, and weft yarn arrangement cycle parameters, and draw the machine diagram, which includes core contents such as the weave diagram and the heddle pattern.

[0045] Trial weaving and adjustment: Trial weaving is carried out on a restored ancient wide-width weft brocade loom. Based on the trial weaving effect, the warp tension, the synchronization of the pattern heddle and the ground heddle, and the weft insertion force are adjusted. Small samples are repeatedly trial-woven and the process parameters are corrected until the structure, density, pattern and appearance of the trial-woven fabric are basically consistent with the design goal.

[0046] On-machine weaving implementation: Pick up the pattern according to the design drawing, lift the corresponding pattern horizontal line and ground heddle, and maintain its lifted state with auxiliary tools; after weft insertion, perform weft beat-up operation, and complete the weaving in sequence according to the colors in the horizontal grid. When weaving the next horizontal grid, change the ground heddle to form the ground structure, and repeat the cycle to complete the fabric weaving.

[0047] In this step, the auxiliary heddle hooks at the back of the machine are used to maintain the pulled-up horizontal lines, and the auxiliary heddle hooks at the back of the machine are used to maintain the pulled-up ground heddles. Weft insertion involves passing the corresponding color weft yarn through the opening formed by the ground heddles and pattern heddles. Weft beat-up is completed using a weft beat-up knife or toothed rake. The weft yarns include ground weft and pattern wefts of various colors. During weaving, the pattern wefts of the corresponding colors are selected in sequence according to the color rules of the design drawing, and the weft insertion and beat-up operations are completed in conjunction with the ground heddles until all colors within the same horizontal grid are woven.

[0048] In specific implementation, the technical solution of the present invention will be further described below with reference to specific embodiments. These embodiments are only used to explain the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. Any adjustments to the local structure, assembly details or process parameters of the loom without departing from the principle of the present invention shall fall within the scope of protection of the present invention. The specific implementation method is as follows:

[0049] The example focuses on the reconstruction of a loom and the replication of fabric based on the Tang Dynasty "linked lion pattern twill weft brocade".

[0050] (a) Loom restoration

[0051] Pine wood was selected as the hardwood material for the frame, and birch wood was selected as the softwood material for the moving parts of the frame. The Zhru frame loom was used as the prototype and modified to remove later additions. The working width of the loom was designed to be 1.2 times the original width, about 160 cm, with space reserved for the selvage and operation. Therefore, the length of the whole loom is about 300 cm, the width is about 100 cm, and the height is about 200 cm.

[0052] Based on the original fragments of the Tang Dynasty "Linked Lion Pattern Twill Brocade," the weft repeat of the pattern is 25 cm, which corresponds to approximately 6 weft repeats within a 150 cm width. Therefore, a set of 6 hanging heddles and a heddle system were added to the loom during construction. Since the pattern is arranged symmetrically, the heddles are also arranged symmetrically in a mountain shape. Three ground heddles are configured to accommodate the weaving of a 2-up, 1-down, left-hand twill ground. The beat-up mechanism uses beat-up knives or toothed rakes, ensuring the weaver's beat-up force is even and the operation is labor-saving. The weft insertion mechanism uses a continuous weft insertion method, preparing small heddles corresponding to the weft colors. The five colors of weft—green, orange, white, yellow, and blue—are all wound around small heddles. The warp feed and take-up mechanism uses a passive warp beam release, achieving synchronous warp beam release and fabric take-up.

[0053] When setting up the loom, use 2×2 / 20 / 22D raw silk with a twist of about 800 twists / meter as the warp yarn. The order of threading the heddles is to first thread the pattern heddles and then finally thread the three ground heddles.

[0054] (ii) Fabric replication

[0055] The original fragments of the Tang Dynasty "Linked Lion Pattern Twill Brocade" were analyzed, and archaeological information such as its archaeological date and excavation site were collected. The fabric specifications were determined, and the warp density was found to be approximately 20 pairs / cm (20 warp threads / cm for the main warp and 20 pairs / cm for the secondary warp), and the weft density was approximately 27 pairs / cm. Through weave analysis, it was determined that the fabric has a 2-up-1-down left twill ground and colored weft pattern. A fabric weave diagram was drawn to determine the twill ground structure and the pattern pattern.

[0056] Enlarge the original pattern to a 1:1 scale and transfer it to special design grid paper. Fill in the pattern according to the color areas of green, orange, white, yellow, and blue. The vertical grid of the design grid paper corresponds to a single warp yarn, and the horizontal grid corresponds to a group of weft yarns to complete the design drawing. The warp repeat of the fabric pattern is about 32 cm, and the weft repeat is about 25 cm.

[0057] Based on the fabric parameters and design drawings, calculate and determine the total number of warp threads, warp yarn arrangement, weft yarn arrangement cycle, and other machine parameters, and draw a machine diagram including the weave diagram and heddle pattern.

[0058] After weaving a short section of twill ground fabric using ground heddles, jacquard trial weaving is performed on a recovery loom to ensure that the colored weft is woven strictly into the opening formed by the pattern lines and ground heddles according to the design pattern. At the same time, the warp tension and weft insertion force are adjusted, and small samples are repeatedly woven and the process parameters are corrected.

[0059] After the trial weaving results meet the standards, formal weaving begins. The pattern is selected according to the design drawing. The pattern lines are maintained by auxiliary pattern hooks, and the ground heddles are maintained by auxiliary heddle hooks. The corresponding color weft threads are selected according to the color of the horizontal grid. The weft threads pass through the opening formed by the ground heddles and the pattern heddles. Wefting is completed using a weft-beating knife or toothed rake. After all colors of the same horizontal grid are woven, the ground heddles are changed to weave the next horizontal grid. This process is repeated until a Tang Dynasty twill weave fabric with a beaded lion pattern is woven, with a width of about 148 cm. The pattern of this fabric is clear and the colors are full. The structure and density are consistent with the original specimen.

[0060] The present invention and its embodiments have been described above. This description is not restrictive, and the actual structure is not limited thereto. In conclusion, if those skilled in the art, inspired by this description, design similar structures and embodiments without departing from the spirit of the invention, such designs should fall within the scope of protection of this invention.

Claims

1. An ancient wide-width weft brocade loom, characterized in that: Based on the Zulu frame loom from Central and West Asia, this loom has been modified to remove later additions that are inconsistent with Tang Dynasty technology. The loom includes a frame, shedding mechanism, beat-up mechanism, weft insertion mechanism, warp feed and take-up mechanism, and 1-N hanging jacquard devices. These mechanisms work together to achieve wide-width weft brocade weaving. The 1-N hanging jacquard devices consist of pattern-pulling horizontal threads and patterned heddle fibers. The pattern-pulling horizontal threads connect to the warp yarns via the patterned heddle fibers, allowing a single pattern-pulling horizontal thread to control the synchronous and regular lifting of multiple warp yarns. The shedding mechanism is equipped with 2-3 ground heddles, suitable for plain or three-end twill weaves. The warp feed and take-up mechanism uses a passive warp beam release method, with warp beam release and fabric take-up occurring simultaneously.

2. The ancient wide-width weft brocade loom according to claim 1, characterized in that: The frame of the machine is made of hardwood, and the moving parts of the frame are made of softwood; the weft insertion mechanism is a toothed rake or weft insertion knife, which can ensure uniform weft insertion force; the weft insertion mechanism adopts the through weft insertion method, and both the ground weft and the pattern weft are wound by small wefts.

3. The ancient wide-width weft brocade loom according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: The warp yarns are threaded through the heddles of the hanging jacquard device (1-N) in sequence, and through the heddles of the ground heddles of the opening mechanism. The heddles are used to lift the warp yarns of the patterned part to form the pattern opening, and the ground heddles are used to form the regular opening of the ground structure. The heddle fibers are arranged in a repeating or symmetrical pattern to expand the pattern cycle.

4. A wide-width weft brocade weaving process based on any one of the ancient wide-width weft brocade looms described in claims 1-3, characterized in that: Includes the following steps: (1) Target fabric analysis and restoration design: Analyze the archaeological information of the target weft brocade fabric, determine the fabric specifications, draw the fabric structure diagram, and clarify the ground structure and pattern display rules; (2) Drawing the design diagram: Enlarge the target fabric pattern and transfer it to the special design grid paper. Fill in the pattern according to the color area. Each vertical grid of the design grid paper corresponds to a single warp or a group of warp yarns, and each horizontal grid corresponds to a group of weft yarns. Distinguish between ground weft and weft pattern. (3) Determine the machine parameters: Calculate and determine the total number of warp ends, warp yarn arrangement, and weft yarn arrangement cycle parameters of the fabric, and draw the machine diagram including the weave diagram and the heddle diagram; (4) Trial weaving and adjustment: Trial weaving is carried out on the restored loom. The warp tension, the synchronization of the pattern heddle and the ground heddle linkage, and the weft insertion force are adjusted. Small samples are repeatedly weaved and the process parameters are corrected until the structure, density, pattern and appearance of the trial fabric are basically consistent with the design target. (5) On-machine weaving implementation: pick up the pattern according to the design drawing, lift the corresponding pattern horizontal line and ground heddle and maintain its pulled state with auxiliary tools, after weft insertion, complete the weft beat-up, and complete the weaving according to the colors in the horizontal grid. When weaving the next horizontal grid, change the ground heddle to form the ground structure, and repeat the cycle to complete the fabric weaving.

5. The wide-width weft brocade weaving process according to claim 4, characterized in that: In step (5), the auxiliary pull hook behind the machine is used to maintain the pull horizontal line in the pulled state, and the auxiliary lifting hook behind the machine is used to maintain the ground heddle in the pulled state; weft insertion is to pass the corresponding color weft thread through the opening formed by the ground heddle and the pattern heddle, and weft insertion is completed by weft insertion knife or toothed rake.

6. The wide-width weft brocade weaving process according to claim 4, characterized in that: In step (1), the fabric specifications include the front and back of the fabric, warp and weft directions, warp and weft density, yarn twist and thickness, raw material, color and fading condition, fabric weight and thickness; the archaeological information includes the archaeological age of the target fabric, the place of excavation, the identity of the tomb owner, coexisting artifacts and weaving background.

7. The wide-width weft brocade weaving process according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that: In step (5), the weft yarn includes the ground weft and the patterned weft of each color. The patterned weft of the corresponding color is selected in sequence according to the color rules of the design drawing. The ground heddle is used to complete the weft insertion and beat-up operations until the weaving of all colors in the same horizontal grid is completed.

8. The ancient wide-width weft brocade loom according to any one of claims 1-3 or the wide-width weft brocade weaving process according to any one of claims 4-7, characterized in that: The loom can be adapted to weave wide-width brocades of different styles from the Tang Dynasty by changing the pattern, adjusting the order of heddle lifting, and changing the weft yarns, thus achieving adaptive weaving of different brocade fabrics.

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