A soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil and its preparation method.
By combining Bozhou peony seed oil and Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil from Bozhou, Anhui, a soothing and repairing essential oil was prepared. This solved the problem of existing skin care essential oils having limited effects on sensitive skin, achieving high penetration, low irritation, and antioxidant skin care effects, and improving the safety and efficacy of skin care products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202610624321.1
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-05-08
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing skincare essential oils offer limited benefits for sensitive skin, lacking anti-inflammatory, low-irritant, high-penetration, and antioxidant properties. Furthermore, their ingredients are not fully utilized, especially the white peony seed resource, which is not effectively utilized.
This product uses Bozhou peony seed oil and Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil from Bozhou, Anhui Province, to create a soothing and repairing essential oil by utilizing the synergistic effect of their natural components. It contains olive oil, Bozhou peony seed oil, Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil, and vitamin E. Bozhou peony seed oil is extracted through microwave treatment, low-temperature pressing, and enzymatic hydrolysis technology to form a highly penetrating and low-irritation antioxidant skin care system.
It achieves highly effective soothing and repair for sensitive skin, significantly reduces irritation, improves permeability, enhances anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, improves skin barrier function, and prolongs product stability.
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of skin care essential oil technology, specifically to a soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil, and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] As consumers increasingly demand safety and efficacy in skincare products, naturally derived plant essential oils have become a research hotspot in the skincare field due to their gentleness, versatility, and easy absorption. Currently, most commercially available skincare essential oils use olive oil, jojoba oil, and rosehip oil as base oils, combined with small amounts of functional plant extracts.
[0003] However, existing products have relatively limited functions and lack skincare essential oils that combine anti-inflammatory, low-irritation, high-penetration, antioxidant, and soothing repair properties for people with sensitive skin. White peony, as a traditional Chinese medicine and ornamental plant, has roots that have been widely used. Studies have shown that white peony seeds have excellent potential for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing effects, but its seeds are often regarded as waste, resulting in extremely low resource utilization. Summary of the Invention
[0004] The purpose of this invention is to provide a soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil and its preparation method. It is a low-irritation, high-penetration essential oil system suitable for sensitive skin and has multiple skin care effects such as soothing and repairing, anti-oxidation, and moisturizing.
[0005] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following two technical solutions:
[0006] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil, which is made from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 50-90 parts olive oil; 0.3-25 parts peony seed oil; 0.1-8 parts chrysanthemum essential oil; and 0.1-2 parts vitamin E.
[0007] In the aforementioned technical solution, olive oil is rich in squalene, polyphenols (such as hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein), and unsaturated fatty acids. Among them, squalene is an important component of human sebum, which can quickly integrate with the skin to form a breathable protective film and lock in moisture; polyphenols have a strong free radical scavenging ability and can preferentially capture reactive oxygen species that cause oil oxidation, thereby effectively delaying the oxidation process of unstable terpenoid components such as camphor and borneol in chrysanthemum essential oil.
[0008] Vitamin E is a fat-soluble antioxidant that forms an antioxidant combination with polyphenols in olive oil, protecting the unsaturated terpenes in chrysanthemum essential oil through its own oxidation. Vitamin E can insert into the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum, reducing transepidermal water loss, and together with the fatty acids in chrysanthemum seed oil, it strengthens the skin barrier, achieving a moisturizing and water-locking effect. Vitamin E can directly inhibit the production of inflammatory mediators, reducing skin erythema and desquamation caused by ultraviolet rays or chemical stimulation, complementing the anti-inflammatory effect of chrysanthemum essential oil.
[0009] Bozhou peony (also known as Bozhou white peony), produced in Bozhou, Anhui Province, is slightly cold in nature, bitter and sour in taste, and enters the liver and spleen meridians. Its seeds are rich in oils, with a high content of unsaturated fatty acids. Its molecular structure is highly similar to the lipids of the skin barrier, giving Bozhou peony seed oil high permeability. It can quickly penetrate the intercellular lipids of keratinocytes, carrying other active ingredients into the deep layers of the epidermis without causing greasiness or closed comedones. It also contains natural active ingredients such as vitamins and sterols, which can inhibit the release of inflammatory factors in the skin, producing a synergistic anti-inflammatory effect with the flavonoids in Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil, and also has excellent antioxidant properties.
[0010] Bozhou Chrysanthemum Essential Oil: Made from Bozhou chrysanthemum, which is mainly produced in Bozhou, Anhui Province. It has a sweet and bitter taste, and is slightly cold in nature. It enters the lung and liver meridians. It has the effects of dispersing wind-heat and antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. The total flavonoid content of Bozhou chrysanthemum is about 8.2%, significantly higher than that of Hangzhou chrysanthemum and Gong chrysanthemum. Flavonoids are components that inhibit inflammatory mediators such as NO. Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil has a high content of camphor and borneol. These two monoterpenoid components have penetrating and antibacterial effects.
[0011] Preferably, the essential oil is made from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 74 parts olive oil; 20 parts peony seed oil; 5 parts chrysanthemum essential oil; and 1 part vitamin E.
[0012] Preferably, the peony seed oil is prepared using the following method:
[0013] S1, Raw material pretreatment and microwave collision
[0014] Select mature and plump Bo Shao seeds that are free from mold, clean off impurities, and microwave the Bo Shao seeds at a temperature of 50-60℃ and a microwave frequency of 2450MHz±50MHz for 3-5 minutes.
[0015] Using the above technical solution, the polarization effect of microwaves is used to instantly vaporize the water inside the white peony seeds, expand the cell wall structure, and at the same time, slightly melt the waxy layer in the seed coat, which facilitates the opening of subsequent oil channels.
[0016] S2, Low-temperature spiral pressing
[0017] The microwave-treated material is rapidly cooled to below 40°C before entering the first pressing process to obtain pressed oil A and pressed cake; the natural tocopherols and phytosterols in the oil are preserved.
[0018] S3, Compound Enzymatic Hydrolysis Treatment
[0019] The pressed cake obtained in step S2 is crushed to 40-60 mesh, put into an enzymatic hydrolysis tank, deionized water is added to adjust the material-liquid ratio, compound enzyme is added, and under constant temperature of 40-45℃, the enzymatic hydrolysis is stirred for 2-4 hours to obtain enzymatic hydrolysate.
[0020] Using the above technical solution, the oil that is difficult to mechanically press is released from the pressed cake residue by breaking down the binding of oil and protein (lipoprotein) with protease and breaking down the cell wall skeleton with cellulase, forming an emulsion.
[0021] S4, Three-phase separation
[0022] After enzymatic hydrolysis, the hydrolysate is separated to obtain a solid phase: defatted seed meal (rich in polypeptides and residual paeoniflorin, which can be used as a functional food ingredient) and a liquid phase: containing free oil, water and a small amount of emulsion. The liquid phase is then further separated to obtain secondary pressed oil B. Finally, pressed oil A and pressed oil B are combined to obtain Bozhou peony seed oil.
[0023] Preferably, in step S2, the material temperature does not exceed 45°C during the pressing process.
[0024] Preferably, in step S3, the complex enzyme is composed of cellulase, pectinase, and neutral protease in a mass ratio of 2:1:1.
[0025] Preferably, in step S3, the amount of compound enzyme added is 0.3%-0.5%.
[0026] Preferably, in step S3, the pH value for enzymatic hydrolysis is adjusted to 5.5-6.5. A slightly acidic environment is conducive to cellulase activity.
[0027] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil as described in the first aspect above, comprising the following steps: S10. Mix peony seed oil and olive oil, and stir at 36℃±2℃ for 20 minutes to obtain the first mixture; S20. Premix chrysanthemum essential oil and vitamin E in the dark until completely dissolved to obtain a second mixture; S30. Slowly add the second mixture to the first mixture and homogenize at 120 rpm for 20 minutes. S40. Filter the mixture obtained in S30 under aseptic conditions, fill it into dark glass bottles, seal and store it away from light.
[0028] Preferably, the entire process temperature of the preparation method does not exceed 40°C, in order to avoid the volatilization of borneol in Bozhou chrysanthemum and the thermal degradation of benzoylpaeoniflorin in Bozhou peony.
[0029] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:
[0030] 1. Synergistic anti-inflammatory and soothing redness reduction: This invention selects Bozhou peony and Bozhou chrysanthemum, both produced in Bozhou, Anhui Province, and utilizes the synergistic effect produced by their homologous growth environment. In an LPS-induced macrophage inflammation model, the 0.1% concentration of the essential oil of this invention achieved a 77.9% inhibition rate of NO, which is higher than that of Bozhou peony seed oil alone or Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil alone, and also significantly higher than the cross-origin combination. Human sensitive skin redness reduction test showed that after 7 days of use, the heme reduction rate reached 22.6%, 90% of the subjects believed that the redness reduction was effective, and the red area of the cheeks was reduced by about 60%.
[0031] 2. Low Irritation: While the high content of camphor and borneol in the chrysanthemum essential oil of this invention gives it strong anti-inflammatory properties, it also causes skin irritation. This invention, by combining it with peony seed oil, reduces the irritation rate to one-third that of ordinary chrysanthemum essential oil. CAMVA irritation assessment shows that the irritation score of the composition of this invention is only 3.2, while the irritation score of the same concentration of chrysanthemum essential oil used alone is 14.3.
[0032] 3. High permeability: The white peony seed oil in this invention is rich in linoleic acid (approximately 65%-75%), whose molecular structure is highly similar to the lipids of the skin barrier. The terpenoid components in chrysanthemum essential oil can be encapsulated by linoleic acid micelles, avoiding the burning sensation caused by the instantaneous contact of high-concentration chrysanthemum essential oil with the skin, and making it easier to penetrate into the stratum corneum, "carrying" the active ingredients of chrysanthemum into the deeper layers of the skin.
[0033] 4. Excellent oxidative stability: The squalene and polyphenols in the olive oil of this invention can preferentially capture free radicals and effectively delay the oxidation of terpenoid components in chrysanthemum essential oil. Detailed Implementation
[0034] The technical solutions of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0035] The peony seed oil used in the following examples was prepared by the following method:
[0036] S1. Raw material pretreatment and microwave cell disruption
[0037] Select plump, mature peony seeds free from mold, clean off impurities, and then process them in a microwave conditioning device. The microwave frequency is 2450MHz±50MHz, the temperature is controlled at 50-60℃, and the processing time is 3-5 minutes. Utilizing the polarization effect of microwaves, the internal moisture of the peony seeds is instantly vaporized, expanding the cell wall structure, while simultaneously slightly melting the waxy layer in the seed coat, facilitating the opening of subsequent oil pathways.
[0038] S2, Low-temperature spiral pressing
[0039] The microwave-treated material is rapidly cooled to below 40°C and then fed into a low-temperature screw press for the first pressing. The press barrel is equipped with a circulating water cooling system to ensure that the material temperature does not exceed 45°C during the pressing process. This yields high-quality pressed oil A and press cake. This step preserves the natural tocopherols and phytosterols in the oil.
[0040] S3, Compound Enzymatic Hydrolysis Treatment
[0041] The pressed cake obtained in step S2 is pulverized to 40-60 mesh and placed in an enzymatic hydrolysis tank. Deionized water is added to adjust the material-to-liquid ratio, and 0.3%-0.5% of a compound enzyme (composed of cellulase, pectinase, and neutral protease in a mass ratio of 2:1:1) is added. The pH is adjusted to 5.5-6.5, as a slightly acidic environment is conducive to cellulase activity. Enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a constant temperature of 40-45℃ for 2-4 hours with stirring. This step releases the residual oil in the cake residue that is difficult to mechanically press by breaking down the lipid-protein complex (lipoprotein) with protease and the cellulase breaking down the cell wall skeleton, forming an emulsion.
[0042] S4, Three-phase separation
[0043] After enzymatic hydrolysis, the hydrolysate is separated using a horizontal spiral centrifuge. The solid phase consists of defatted seed meal (rich in polypeptides and residual paeoniflorin, which can be used as a functional food ingredient). The liquid phase contains free oil, water, and a small amount of emulsion. This liquid phase is further separated using a disc centrifuge to obtain secondary pressed oil B. Finally, A and B are combined to obtain the desired peony seed oil of this invention.
[0044] The following ingredients in this invention are all commercially available products and are used solely to ensure the full disclosure of the ingredients in this application. They should not be construed as limiting the source of the ingredients. Specifically, they are: olive oil, chrysanthemum essential oil, and vitamin E.
[0045] Example 1
[0046] A soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil is made from the following ingredients in parts by weight: 74 parts olive oil; 20 parts peony seed oil; 5 parts chrysanthemum essential oil; and 1 part vitamin E.
[0047] The method for preparing this essential oil includes the following steps: S10. Mix peony seed oil and olive oil, and stir at 36℃±2℃ for 20 minutes to obtain the first mixture; S20. Premix chrysanthemum essential oil and vitamin E in the dark until completely dissolved to obtain a second mixture; S30. Slowly add the second mixture to the first mixture and homogenize at 120 rpm for 20 minutes. S40. Filter the mixture obtained in S30 under aseptic conditions, fill it into dark glass bottles, seal and store it away from light.
[0048] The entire process temperature of the above preparation method does not exceed 40℃.
[0049] Example 2
[0050] A soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil is made from the following ingredients in parts by weight: 50 parts olive oil; 0.3 parts peony seed oil; 0.1 parts chrysanthemum essential oil; and 0.1 parts vitamin E.
[0051] The preparation method is exactly the same as in Example 1.
[0052] Example 3
[0053] A soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil is made from the following ingredients in parts by weight: 90 parts olive oil; 25 parts peony seed oil; 8 parts chrysanthemum essential oil; and 2 parts vitamin E.
[0054] The preparation method is exactly the same as in Example 1.
[0055] Comparative Example 1
[0056] The only difference from Example 1 is that the Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil is replaced with an equal part by weight of Hangzhou chrysanthemum essential oil (originating from Hangzhou, Zhejiang). The other components and preparation methods are exactly the same as in Example 1.
[0057] Comparative Example 2
[0058] The only difference from Example 1 is that the Bozhou peony seed oil is replaced with an equal part by weight of Sichuan peony seed oil (originating from Sichuan). The other components and preparation methods are exactly the same as in Example 1.
[0059] Comparative Example 3
[0060] The only difference from Example 1 is that the Bozhou peony seed oil is replaced with an equal weight of Sichuan peony seed oil, and the Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil is replaced with an equal weight of Hangzhou chrysanthemum essential oil (from Hangzhou, Zhejiang). The other components and preparation methods are exactly the same as in Example 1.
[0061] Comparative Example 4
[0062] This balanced essential oil is made from the following ingredients by weight: 75 parts olive oil, 20 parts peony seed oil, 1 part vitamin E, and no peony essential oil.
[0063] The method for preparing this essential oil includes the following steps: Mix peony seed oil and olive oil, and stir at 36℃±2℃ for 20 minutes to obtain the first mixture; Slowly add vitamin E to the first mixture and homogenize at 120 rpm for 20 minutes. The mixture obtained in the above steps is filtered and filled into dark glass bottles under aseptic conditions, then sealed and stored away from light. The entire process temperature of the above preparation method does not exceed 40°C.
[0064] Comparative Example 5
[0065] This balanced essential oil is made from the following ingredients by weight: 75 parts olive oil, 5 parts chamomile essential oil, 1 part vitamin E, and no peony seed oil.
[0066] The method for preparing this essential oil includes the following steps:
[0067] Chrysanthemum essential oil and vitamin E were premixed in the dark and completely dissolved to obtain a mixture;
[0068] Slowly add the mixture to the olive oil and homogenize at 120 rpm for 20 minutes.
[0069] The mixture obtained in the above steps is filtered and filled into dark glass bottles under aseptic conditions, then sealed and stored away from light. The entire process temperature of the above preparation method does not exceed 40°C.
[0070] Comparative Example 6
[0071] This balanced essential oil is made from the following ingredients in parts by weight: 74 parts olive oil; 5 parts chamomile essential oil.
[0072] The essential oil preparation method includes the following steps: slowly adding chrysanthemum essential oil to olive oil and homogenizing at 120 rpm for 20 minutes. The entire process temperature of the above preparation method shall not exceed 40℃.
[0073] Comparative Example 7
[0074] This balanced essential oil is made from the following ingredients in parts by weight: 5 parts chrysanthemum essential oil.
[0075] Functional Test Case
[0076] I. Anti-inflammatory and soothing activity test
[0077] 1. Test Objective
[0078] An LPS (lipopolysaccharide)-induced inflammation model of RAW264.7 macrophages was established to detect its inhibitory effect on NO release and evaluate its anti-inflammatory activity.
[0079] 2. Test Basis
[0080] The experimental procedure for the LPS-induced RAW264.7 macrophage inflammation model was followed in accordance with internationally accepted protocols.
[0081] 3. Testing Methods
[0082] Cell line: RAW264.7 mouse macrophage cell line.
[0083] Modeling: Logarithmic growth phase cells were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured for 24 h. LPS at a concentration of 1 μg / mL was added to induce an inflammatory response.
[0084] Drug administration: Samples from Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were added simultaneously, with a sample concentration of 0.1%. A blank control group (no LPS, no sample) and a model control group (LPS stimulation, no sample) were set up.
[0085] Detection: After 24 hours of incubation, the supernatant was collected, and the NO content was determined using the Griess method. The NO inhibition rate was calculated using the following formula:
[0086] Inhibition rate = (NO content in model group - NO content in sample group) / (NO content in model group - NO content in blank group) x 100%
[0087] 4. Test Results
[0088] Table 1. Results of anti-inflammatory and soothing activity tests Group Peony source Chrysanthemum source NO inhibition rate (0.1%) Example 1 Bo Shao Boju 77.9% Example 2 Bo Shao Boju 70.5% Example 3 Bo Shao Boju 73.3% Comparative Example 1 Bo Shao Hangzhou Chrysanthemum 58.3% Comparative Example 2 Sichuan Shao Boju 52.2% Comparative Example 3 Sichuan Shao Hangzhou Chrysanthemum 40.1% Comparative Example 4 Bo Shao —— 21% Comparative Example 5 —— Boju 60.3%
[0089] These results indicate that the NO inhibition rates of Examples 1-3 were all above 70%; the NO inhibition rate of Example 1 was the highest, reaching 77.9%, which was significantly higher than that of Comparative Examples 4 and 5. This shows that both Bozhou peony seed oil and Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil have certain anti-inflammatory activities when used alone, but the combination of the two produces a significant synergistic effect.
[0090] Comparing Comparative Examples 1 and 2, this invention uses Bozhou peony and Bozhou chrysanthemum from the same origin in Bozhou, Anhui Province. Their anti-inflammatory activity is significantly higher than that of combinations from different origins, confirming the specific synergistic effect of medicinal materials from the same source. Comparative Example 3 showed an inhibition rate of only 40.1%, further demonstrating the necessity of dual limitations of origin and variety for synergistic anti-inflammatory effects. This invention proves the irreplaceable synergistic specificity of Bozhou peony seed oil and Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil, providing a basis for solving the technical problems of single anti-inflammatory efficacy and unstable effects of cross-origin combinations in existing products.
[0091] II. Human Efficacy Test (Redness Reduction for Sensitive Skin)
[0092] 1. Test Objective
[0093] Human trials were conducted to evaluate the effect of the sample on improving facial erythema on sensitive skin. The rate of decrease in heme and the rate of subjects' self-reported "effective redness reduction" were used as indicators to verify the soothing and redness-reducing efficacy of the present invention.
[0094] 2. Test Basis
[0095] Refer to the human trial methods for "soothing" and "repairing" effects in the "Cosmetic Efficacy Evaluation Standard" (Announcement No. 17 of the National Medical Products Administration in 2021).
[0096] 3. Testing Methods
[0097] Subjects: Thirty women with sensitive skin and facial erythema were selected and randomly divided into three groups (10 people in each group). The study was randomized, double-blind, and self-controlled. Subjects used the sample for 7 consecutive days, twice a day, morning and evening, applying it evenly to the erythematous areas of the face. Examples 1, 1, and 2 were used respectively.
[0098] Instrument testing: The skin hemoglobin content was measured before and 7 days after use using a skin hemoglobin tester, and the hemoglobin decrease rate was calculated.
[0099] Subjective evaluation: On day 7, subjects self-evaluated as "effective in reducing redness", meaning that the redness was visibly reduced or disappeared. The proportion of subjects with effective evaluation was counted.
[0100] Image recording: Standard photographs were taken of the subjects' cheeks, and changes in the red area were analyzed.
[0101] 4. Test Results
[0102] Table 2 Results of Human Efficacy Tests
[0103] Test results showed that the heme reduction rate of Example 1 was approximately 1.8 times that of Comparative Example 1 and approximately 2.2 times that of Comparative Example 2; 90% of subjects reported effective redness reduction, significantly higher than Comparative Examples 1 and 2. This invention, through a specific combination of Bozhou peony seed oil and Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil, can rapidly reduce facial erythema and improve capillary dilation in sensitive skin. The redness-reducing effect was significantly reduced when Hangzhou chrysanthemum was substituted for Bozhou chrysanthemum in Comparative Example 1 and when Sichuan peony root was substituted for Bozhou peony root in Comparative Example 2, further demonstrating the importance of authentic varieties and origin restrictions. This invention solves the technical problem that existing potent anti-inflammatory ingredients (such as high-content borneol and camphor) are difficult to use on sensitive skin due to their irritant properties.
[0104] III. Barrier Repair Effect Test
[0105] 1. Test Objective
[0106] A 3D epidermal model was used to evaluate the ability of samples to repair the skin barrier damaged by surfactants (SDS), with the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) recovery rate as the indicator.
[0107] 2. Test Basis
[0108] Referencing the TEWL determination specifications in "T / SHRH 057-2024 Evaluation Methods for Cosmetic Repair Efficacy," an in vitro barrier repair test was conducted using a 3D epidermal model.
[0109] 3. Testing Methods
[0110] Model construction: A commercial 3D epidermal model containing normally differentiated human keratinocytes was used.
[0111] Damage induction: 0.1% SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate) solution was added to the model surface and incubated for 30 min to induce skin barrier damage. The TEWL value (denoted as T0) after damage was measured.
[0112] Sample preparation: After damage, samples from Example 1, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 6, and Comparative Example 7 were applied, 20 μL per model, and incubated at 37°C in a 5% CO2 incubator for 24 h. A negative control group (no damage, no sample added) and a model control group (damaged, no sample added) were set up.
[0113] Testing: After 24 hours, the TEWL value of each model surface was measured using a TEWL measuring instrument. The TEWL recovery rate was calculated using the following formula:
[0114] Recovery rate = (TEWL of model control group - TEWL of sample group) / (TEWL of model control group - TEWL of negative control group) x 100%
[0115] 4. Test Results
[0116] Table 3. Barrier Repair Effect Test Results Group TEWL recovery rate Example 1 68.5% Comparative Example 1 45.8% Comparative Example 6 43.6% Comparative Example 7 43.5%
[0117] Test results show that the TEWL recovery rate of Example 1 is as high as 68.5%, which is significantly higher than that of Comparative Examples 1, 6, and 7. The recovery rates of Comparative Examples 6 and 7 are similar, indicating that the effect of using chrysanthemum essential oil alone (whether or not it is combined with olive oil) on barrier repair is limited; the repair effect of Hangzhou chrysanthemum in Comparative Example 1, which replaces chrysanthemum, is also far lower than that of this invention.
[0118] In this invention, the high linoleic acid content (65%-75%) in peony seed oil is highly similar to skin barrier lipids, enabling it to directly replenish stratum corneum lipids and accelerate barrier structure reconstruction. Simultaneously, the anti-inflammatory effect of chrysanthemum essential oil reduces secondary damage to the barrier caused by inflammation; the two work synergistically to achieve excellent barrier repair effects.
[0119] IV. Stimulation Assessment
[0120] 1. Test Objective
[0121] The chorioallantoic membrane vascular assay (CAMVA) of chicken embryos was used to assess the eye irritation and skin irritation of the samples, verifying the effectiveness of the present invention in reducing the irritation of chrysanthemum essential oil through compatibility.
[0122] 2. Test Basis
[0123] Refer to the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition).
[0124] 3. Testing Methods
[0125] Chicken embryo preparation: SPF-grade fertilized chicken embryos were selected and incubated until day 10. After checking that the blood vessels were developing normally, they were used for the experiment.
[0126] Sample preparation: Take 30 μL of each of the samples from Example 1, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 6, and Comparative Example 7, and add them directly to the surface of the chorioallantoic membrane of chicken embryos (avoiding large blood vessels).
[0127] Incubation and observation: After incubation at 37℃ for 30 min, the membrane surface was gently rinsed with physiological saline. Vascular reactions such as bleeding, angiolysis and coagulation were observed and recorded under a stereomicroscope.
[0128] Scoring criteria: Scores are given on a scale of 0-20 based on the intensity of the reaction; higher scores indicate stronger stimulation. Rating standards: 0-5 points: no stimulation; >5-10 points: mild stimulation; >10-15 points: mild stimulation; >15 points: stimulating.
[0129] Quality control: The score for the negative control (physiological saline) should be ≤2, and the score for the positive control (1% SDS) should be ≥15.
[0130] 4. Test Results
[0131] Table 4. Results of Stimulation Assessment Group Stimulus rating Rating Example 1 3.2 Non-irritating Comparative Example 1 5.1 mild irritation Comparative Example 6 9.8 mild irritation Comparative Example 7 14.3 Mild stimulation
[0132] The results showed that the irritation score of pure Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil was 14.3, while that of Comparative Example 6 was 9.8, indicating that olive oil could only slightly dilute the irritation and could not fundamentally eliminate it. The irritation score of Example 1 of this invention was reduced to 3.2, even lower than the 5.1 score of Comparative Example 1. The high linoleic acid content in the Bozhou chrysanthemum seed oil of this invention can form micelle structures, encapsulating the more irritating terpenoid components (such as camphor and borneol) in the Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil, preventing them from directly contacting the nerve endings and cell membranes of the skin, thereby reducing the irritation rate to one-third that of ordinary chrysanthemum essential oil. At the same time, this encapsulation effect does not affect the anti-inflammatory activity of the Bozhou chrysanthemum essential oil (see NO inhibition rate results), achieving a breakthrough of "retaining potency and eliminating irritation".
[0133] V. Oxidation Test
[0134] Test objective: To verify the effect of olive oil on delaying the oxidation and discoloration of chrysanthemum essential oil.
[0135] Method: The product of Example 1 and the control formula without olive oil (the other components are the same) were placed in a constant temperature incubator at 45°C for accelerated oxidation for 3 months. Peroxide value (POV, unit mmol / kg) was measured monthly.
[0136] Results: After 3 months, the peroxide value of Example 1 increased by 62% compared to the group without olive oil. Squalene and polyphenols in olive oil can preferentially capture free radicals, effectively delaying the oxidation of terpenoids in chrysanthemum essential oil and significantly improving the product's shelf-life stability.
[0137] It should be noted that, in this document, relational terms such as "first" and "second" are used only to distinguish one entity or operation from another, and do not necessarily require or imply any such actual relationship or order between these entities or operations. Furthermore, the terms "comprising," "including," or any other variations thereof are intended to cover non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements includes not only those elements but also other elements not expressly listed, or elements inherent to such a process, method, article, or apparatus. Without further limitations, an element defined by the phrase "comprising one..." does not exclude the presence of other identical elements in the process, method, article, or apparatus that includes said element.
[0138] Although embodiments of the invention have been shown and described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made to these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.
Claims
1. A soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil, characterized in that, It is made from the following ingredients in parts by weight: 50-90 parts olive oil; 0.3-25 parts peony seed oil; 0.1-8 parts chrysanthemum essential oil; and 0.1-2 parts vitamin E.
2. The soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil according to claim 1, characterized in that: It is made from the following ingredients in parts by weight: 74 parts olive oil; 20 parts peony seed oil; 5 parts chrysanthemum essential oil; and 1 part vitamin E.
3. The soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil according to claim 1, characterized in that: The peony seed oil is prepared using the following method: S1, Raw material pretreatment and microwave collision Select mature and plump Bo Shao seeds that are free from mold, clean off impurities, and microwave the Bo Shao seeds at a temperature of 50-60℃ and a microwave frequency of 2450MHz±50MHz for 3-5 minutes. S2, Low-temperature spiral pressing The microwave-treated material is rapidly cooled to below 40°C and then fed into the first pressing process to obtain pressed oil A and pressed cake. S3, Compound Enzymatic Hydrolysis Treatment The pressed cake obtained in step S2 is crushed to 40-60 mesh, put into an enzymatic hydrolysis tank, deionized water is added to adjust the material-liquid ratio, compound enzyme is added, and under constant temperature of 40-45℃, the enzymatic hydrolysis is stirred for 2-4 hours to obtain enzymatic hydrolysate. S4, Three-phase separation After enzymatic hydrolysis, the hydrolysate is separated into a solid phase and a liquid phase. The liquid phase is then further separated to obtain secondary pressed oil B. Finally, pressed oil A and pressed oil B are combined to obtain peony seed oil.
4. The soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil according to claim 3, characterized in that: In step S2, the material temperature does not exceed 45°C during the pressing process.
5. The soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil according to claim 3, characterized in that: In step S3, the complex enzyme is composed of cellulase, pectinase, and neutral protease in a mass ratio of 2:1:
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6. The soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil according to claim 3, characterized in that: In step S3, the amount of compound enzyme added is 0.3%-0.5%.
7. The soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil according to claim 3, characterized in that: In step S3, the pH value of the enzymatic hydrolysis is adjusted to 5.5-6.
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8. A method for preparing a soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil according to any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S10. Mix peony seed oil and olive oil, and stir at 36℃±2℃ for 20 minutes to obtain the first mixture; S20. Premix chrysanthemum essential oil and vitamin E in the dark until completely dissolved to obtain a second mixture; S30. Slowly add the second mixture to the first mixture and homogenize at 120 rpm for 20 minutes. S40. Filter the mixture obtained in S30 under aseptic conditions, fill it into dark glass bottles, seal and store it away from light.
9. The method for preparing a soothing and repairing essential oil containing peony seed oil and chrysanthemum essential oil according to claim 8, characterized in that: The entire process temperature of the preparation method does not exceed 40°C.