Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a specific mixture of surfactants and a combination of starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer

Abstract

An oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and a combination of starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a) at least one continuous aqueous phase, b) at least one oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, c) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i- at ​​least one fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester, ii- at ​​least one ester selected from C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, d) at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and e) at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer comprising a native starch.

Description

Title of the invention: Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a particular mixture of surfactants and the association of starch grafted by an acrylic polymer and starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular of the oil-in-water emulsion type stabilized by a particular mixture of surfactants, and comprising the combination of at least one starch grafted by an acrylic polymer, in particular superabsorbent, and at least one starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer, preferably a native starch.

[0002] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one layer of said cosmetic composition.

[0003] The invention also relates to the use of said aforementioned combination of 2 types of starches to improve, that is to say increase, the consistency of a cosmetic composition, in particular the sensation of thickness under the finger upon application, while providing a powdery, non-sticky skin finish, once the composition is applied to the skin. Brief description of the drawings

[0004] The invention may be better understood by reading the following description accompanied by non-limiting examples of its implementation, with reference to the appended drawings, in which:

[0005] [Fig. 1] is a graph representing the sensory profile of each of the 2 compositions of example 1 below: in dashed lines the profile of the composition Cpl of the prior art and in solid lines the profile of the composition Inv2 according to the invention.

[0006] [Fig.2] is a graph representing the sensory profile of each of the 2 compositions of example 2 below: in dashed lines the profile of the composition Cp3 of the prior art and in solid lines the profile of the composition Inv4 according to the invention. Technical field

[0007] Cosmetic formulation is undergoing a major transformation. Consumers have a heightened environmental awareness, expectations for more natural products, and the need to be reassured about the ingredients in cosmetic formulas, particularly their safety, low environmental footprint, origin, and renewable nature. Cosmetic research is therefore striving to offer formulas that respond as much as possible to this quest for environmental responsibility, thoughtful, more sober consumption, and cosmetic products that are both simpler and of higher quality. Consumers are looking for both "useful" products that make a difference, and a simplification of beauty routines, which can be based on ancient know-how rooted for generations.

[0008] Innovating for textures using more biodegradable raw materials, with the lowest possible environmental impact, has become the priority for formulators, while remaining attentive to the sensory experience of consumers, the textures obtained must continue to satisfy, and beauty products must always remain a source of comfort, pleasure and lightness.

[0009] In recent years, the replacement of synthetic particulate fillers in cosmetic formulas has become a major issue. Some fillers are in spherical form, with a size in the range of 25 to 50 μm, and are used for the texture and the particular feel that they bring in particular to skincare creams in pots: a greater thickness under the finger at the start of application, like a cushion, then which leaves a soft, powdery and non-greasy film on the skin, characterizing the “skin finish” after application.

[0010] The formulator must here respond to the double challenge: on the one hand of naturalness, in which the thickeners and synthetic polymer fillers are replaced by more natural raw materials, or of more natural origin; and on the other hand of sensoriality, so that the more natural formulas have the same sensory properties as the existing less natural formulas that they are intended to replace, consumers being in particular accustomed to certain sensory and textural properties, for example characteristics of silicones and synthetic polymer fillers.

[0011] By "natural compound" is meant a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0012] By compounds “of natural origin”, we mean a natural compound which has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents which have or have not undergone transformations, as indicated above.

[0013] As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatment generating modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, we can mention those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized textbooks in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9:10.

[0014] The replacement of certain synthetic ingredients in a formula with more natural ingredients can lead to problems of texture change, stability problems, and may in turn require adaptations to the other ingredients of the formula to be renovated, in order to regain the initial texture and sensoriality to which consumers are accustomed for this type of formula.

[0015] We therefore seek to formulate compositions comprising ingredients compatible with the formulation of more “natural” cosmetic products and which have good cosmetic properties, while being stable.

[0016] The present invention therefore aims to provide an oil-in-water emulsion type composition, sufficiently consistent to have good hold in the pot, a notable thickness under the finger at the start of application, and which has good sensory properties such as the absence of a greasy or sticky sensation during and after application.

[0017] The present invention also aims to provide a composition, in particular of the oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type, based on the most natural ingredients possible.

[0018] The applicant has now found that the combination of at least one starch grafted by an acrylic polymer, in particular in the form of a superabsorbent polymer at least partially based on starch, and at least one starch, in particular native starch, in an oil-in-water emulsion stabilized by a particular mixture of surfactants, makes it possible to obtain a more natural composition with a characteristic texture, having both good hold or consistency in the pot and good stability in the pot, a notable thickness under the finger upon application and a non-sticky skin finish.

[0019] This combination of at least two particular starches makes it possible to obtain emulsions having an appearance, a sensory aspect, a texture, a consistency and in particular a grip on the finger, comparable to those obtained with polymeric particulate fillers of entirely synthetic origin. Detailed description

[0020] The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

[0021] a) at least one continuous aqueous phase,

[0022] b) at least one oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase,

[0023] c) at least one emulsifying system comprising:

[0024] i- at ​​least one ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol,

[0025] ii- at ​​least one ester chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan esters,

[0026] d) from 0.05 to 1% by weight of at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and

[0027] e) from 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer comprising a native starch;

[0028] wherein the grafted starch / ungrafted starch weight ratio is in the range of 1 / 8 to 1 / 15.

[0029] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the implementation, in an oil-in-water emulsion stabilized by a surfactant system called "span-myrj", of the combination of starch and a polymer, in particular superabsorbent, chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer, makes it possible to achieve a formulation with a thick texture, of the characteristic "cushion" type under the finger when spreading, and a non-sticky sensory experience, identical to that obtained with entirely synthetic polymeric microplastic fillers.

[0030] Advantageously, the implementation of the combination of a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and a simple starch, i.e. not grafted with an acrylic polymer, in an H / W emulsion of a particular surfactant system, commonly called “Span-Myrj”, makes it possible to obtain a stable formulation, having a thick texture called “cushion” at the start of application and a silky, non-sticky sensoriality and skin feel, during and after application, which are particularly pleasant for daily use and a comfort that is highly appreciated by users accustomed to creams in pots containing synthetic microplastic powders.

[0031] Thus, the combination of a polymer, in particular a superabsorbent polymer, chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, and a starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer, in an O / W emulsion, stabilized by a particular surfactant system, of the “Span-Myrj” type, advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally antagonistic to each other: thickness of texture upon application and silky skin finish. Originally, superabsorbent polymers, like starches, are known and used for their gelling properties. Nothing suggested that they would provide, once combined, the aforementioned particular sensory properties, namely a “cushion effect” under the finger and a silky skin finish, characteristic properties hitherto only observed through the use of microplastic fillers.

[0032] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or the face.

[0033] The present invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, of at least 2 types of starches as defined above, to increase the thickness under the finger, in particular to provide a “cushion effect”, at the start of the application of the composition to the skin and improve the skin finish by reducing stickiness and increasing the powdery effect perceived on the skin after application.

[0034] The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0035] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the drying out of the skin and / or improving the suppleness and / or comfort of the skin comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

[0036] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, the following terms are understood to mean:

[0038] - “Stable composition” means a composition which, after storage for at least one months, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, retains its pleasantness and its sensory signature upon application. More specifically, a “stable composition” within the meaning of the present invention has an acceptable viscosity change, that is to say that the difference between the initial viscosity and the viscosity after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), and at 4°C remains less than 10%, and at 45°C this difference remains less than 25%. A “stable composition” within the meaning of the present invention also has a difference between the initial pH and after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C, of ​​less than 0.3 and does not exhibit any phase shift phenomenon after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C.Finally, a “stable composition” within the meaning of the present invention does not exhibit crystals after storage for at least one month, and preferably two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C.

[0039] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

[0040] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0041] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hair, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0042] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0043] Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

[0044] Starch grafted by an acrylic polymer

[0045] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer. Advantageously, said at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate. Indeed, the acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate.

[0046] Advantageously, said starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is a superabsorbent polymer.

[0047] The term "superabsorbent polymer" means a polymer which is capable in its dry state of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and in particular distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the work "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. BRAN NON-PAPPAS and R. HARLAND, published by Elsevier, 1990.

[0048] These polymers have a high capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the particles of the polymer thus soaked in aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.

[0049] The superabsorbent polymer may have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined at standard conditions of temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mm Hg or 100000 Pa) and for distilled water. The value of the water absorption capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 μm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.

[0050] The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or unhydrated state, an average size less than or equal to 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, ranging for example from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and better still from 7 to 30 pm.

[0051] The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell to form soft particles having an average size ranging from 10 pm to 1000 pm.

[0052] Such polymers are known for their gelling properties and are generally used pre-swollen in aqueous phase.

[0053] In the present invention, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is added at the same time as the ungrafted starch, as fillers, generally at the end of the formulation. Said association of these two specific starches according to the invention provides in particular a thickness with a cushion effect when taken with the finger, then a powdery skin finish, after application of the emulsion of the invention. These two sensory effects are typically those observed for synthetic polymeric fillers of the Expancel® type, here replaced in favor of more natural raw materials used according to the invention.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the superabsorbent polymer(s) used comprise from 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they consist of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.

[0056] Mention may in particular be made of starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those marketed under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makhnousse 25 or Makhnousse 12 or Makhnousse 7 by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch).

[0057] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0058] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which are in particulate form.

[0059] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles.

[0060] Said grafted starch(es), advantageously superabsorbent, are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.06 to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.07 to 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.08 to 0.15% by weight, preferentially from 0.09 to 0.12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer

[0062] For the purposes of the invention, the term “ungrafted starch” means a starch which is not grafted by an acrylic polymer, in particular a starch which is not part of the superabsorbent polymers, as defined above.

[0063] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises starch, simple starch, that is to say starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer. The ungrafted starch represents a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, the content is expressed as active material.

[0064] The starches that can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose (dextrose) units, linked by α(1,4) bonds, of chemical formula (C6H10O5)n. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from approximately 600 to 1000 linearly chained glucose molecules, and amylopectin, a polymer branched approximately every 25 glucose residues (α(1,6) bond). The total chain can be between 10,000 and 100,000 glucose residues.

[0065] Starch is described in particular in "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3rd edition, volume 21, p.492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983".

[0066] Chemical structure of starch:

[0067] Dextrose

[0069] Amyloidosis

[0071] Amylopectin

[0073] The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a sample of native starch consists of approximately 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

[0074] Sometimes there is the presence of phytoglycogen (between 0 and 20% of the starch), an analogue of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

[0075] Starch can be in the form of semi-crystalline granules: amylopectin is organized into sheets, amylose forms a less well organized amorphous zone between the different sheets.

[0076] Amylose is organized into a right-handed helix with six glucoses per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, all the more easily if it is in the form of amylopectin. Indeed, the helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to enzymes.

[0077] Starches generally appear in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles of which ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

[0078] By treating it with hot water, starch is obtained. It is used in industry for its thickening and gelling properties.

[0079] On the contrary, in the case of the present invention, starch is used as a sensory filler. The 2 types of particular starches associated in the compositions according to the invention remain detectable in the particulate state in the formula passed under the SEM microscope (xl00).

[0080] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the ungrafted starch and the grafted starch are present and then found in the formula in particulate form, whether in the swollen or non-swollen state, in particular by impregnation of the formula, in particular in the hydrated or non-hydrated state.

[0081] The starch molecules used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches.

[0082] Native starches are represented for example by the products sold under the trade names C*Amilogel®, Cargill Gel®, C*Gel®, Cargill Gum®, DryGel®, C*Pharm Gel® by the company Cargill, under the name Corn Starch by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

[0083] Advantageously, said at least one non-grafted starch is chosen from: corn, tapioca, rice, wheat, cassava, barley, potato, sorghum, pea starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Preferably, the ungrafted starch is chosen from corn, tapioca, rice or wheat starch. It may be modified or unmodified (also called “native”).

[0085] Preferably, the starch not grafted by an acrylic polymer is also not modified chemically or physically. Preferably, said ungrafted starch is also not modified by crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules.

[0086] Said ungrafted starch according to the invention comprises native starch. Preferably, the ungrafted starch is native corn starch.

[0087] The ungrafted starch used in the composition of the invention is in particulate form. The average size of the ungrafted starch particles, corresponding to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry, and is included, in the dry or unhydrated state, in the range of 5 to 30 qm, preferably 5 to 20 qm, preferably 10 to 20 qm.

[0088] Advantageously, the grafted starch / ungrafted starch weight ratio is in the range of 1 / 8 to 1 / 15, preferably 1 / 10 to 1 / 15, preferably 1 / 10 to 1 / 12. Below 1 / 15, the cushion effect is less and less noticeable, and above 1 / 8, an increasingly thick texture, or even a pasty effect, may appear.

[0089] Polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester

[0090] The composition according to the invention comprises, as main emulsifying surfactant, at least one fatty acid and polyethylene ester.

[0091] The fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol present in the composition according to the invention is preferably an ester of C16-C22 fatty acids comprising from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.

[0092] The fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain.

[0093] The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to 40.

[0094] As an example of a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising respectively 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products marketed respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 EO; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 EO; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53, Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA.

[0095] The fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol is preferably chosen from polyethylene glycol stearates.

[0096] The fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 4% by weight.

[0097] Additional emulsifying surfactant

[0098] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional emulsifying surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan esters, may further comprise at least one surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan.

[0100] The C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain, having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with sorbitol. These esters may in particular be chosen from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, oleates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, sorbitan stearates and palmitates are used, and preferably sorbitan stearates.

[0101] The C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C.

[0102] Mention may be made, as an example of a sorbitan ester that can be used in the composition according to the invention, of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by the company Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company Croda under the name Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by the company Croda under the name Span 40, sorbitan monoleate sold by the company Croda under the name Span 80 V, sorbitan trioleate sold by the company Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

[0103] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises an ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan chosen from sorbitan stearates, in particular sorbitan tristearate.

[0104] The C16-C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

[0105] The fatty acid ester of glyceryl can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glyceryl ester of fatty acid, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.

[0106] The glyceryl fatty acid ester may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 6% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

[0108] The composition of the invention may comprise in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO, and in particular that comprising such a mixture in a weight proportion of 50 / 50, marketed under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda.

[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sorbitan stearate, in particular sorbitan tristearate, and polyethylene glycol monostearate, the latter preferably comprising 40 EO.

[0110] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sorbitan stearate, preferably sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO. [YES] Aqueous phase

[0112] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0113] The composition may comprise water in a content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 40% to 70% by weight.

[0114] The water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0115] The composition may further comprise an organic solvent miscible with water at room temperature (25°C) chosen in particular from:

[0116] monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol;

[0117] polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol;

[0118] glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as alkyl(Cl-C4)ethers of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, alkyl(Cl-C4)ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol;

[0119] and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Advantageously, the aqueous phase may comprise ethanol.

[0121] The composition according to the invention may comprise an organic solvent miscible with water at room temperature, in particular a polyol, in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight.

[0122] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3.5 to 7.5, preferably ranging from 4.0 to 6.0, and more preferably ranging from 4.5 to 5.5.

[0123] Oily phase

[0124] The emulsion according to the invention also comprises an oily phase.

[0125] As oils which can be used more particularly in the composition of the invention, we can cite for example:

[0126] - hydrocarbon oils, preferably of plant origin, such as squalane;

[0127] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; lipophilic amino acid derivatives, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Isopropyl Lauroyl sarcosinate) marketed under the name Eldew SL 205 by the company Ajinomoto;

[0128] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as mineral oils (mixture of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum; INCI name: Mineral oil), paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated isoparaffin such as Parleam® oil marketed by NOF Corporation (INCI name: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene);

[0129] - silicone oils such as volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or non-linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0130] - ethers such as dicaprylic ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); and C12-C15 fatty alcohol benzoates (Finsolv TN from FINETEX);

[0131] - their mixture s.

[0132] The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 5% to 30% by weight.

[0133] The oily phase of the emulsion may comprise other fatty substances such as waxes; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0135] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen, for example, from:

[0136] (i) carboxyvinyl polymers (such as acrylic acid polymers, possibly crosslinked), such as products marketed under the names Carbopol (INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich; sodium polyacrylate;

[0137] (ii) polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the name “Hostacerin AMPS” (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS, such as those marketed under the name SIMULGEL EG (CTFA name: Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80); 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid / ethoxylated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate copolymers (ARISTOFLEX LNC from Clariant), 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid / ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate copolymers (ARISTOFLEX HMS and ARISTOFLEX SNC from Clariant);

[0138] (iii) polysaccharides such as xanthan gums, guar gums, alginates;

[0139] (iv) mixed silicates such as smectites, laponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, such as the BENTONE products marketed by the company Rheox, the LAPONITE products marketed by the company Southern Clay Products, the VEEGUM HS product marketed by the company RTVanderbilt.

[0140] UV filters

[0141] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one organic photoprotective agent active in UVA and / or UVB (absorbers), water-soluble or liposoluble or insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents.

[0142] The composition according to the invention having good stability, it is suitable for the formulation of organic UV filters.

[0143] By “organic UVA filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0144] By “organic UVB filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0145] Organic UV filters

[0146] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV filters. These may be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV filters, lipophilic organic UV filters and insoluble organic UV filters.

[0147] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0148] By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0149] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0150] The organic UV filters are in particular chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.;

[0151] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name.

[0152] Cinnamic compounds:

[0153] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0154] Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,

[0155] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

[0156] DEA Methoxycinnamate,

[0157] Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

[0158] Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

[0159] Dibenzoylmethane compounds j.

[0160] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0161] Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

[0162] Para-aminobenzoic compounds j.

[0163] PABA,

[0164] Ethyl PABA,

[0165] Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

[0166] Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name “ESCALOL 507®” by ISP,

[0167] Glyceryl PABA,

[0168] PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P 25®” by BASF.

[0169] Salicylic compounds:

[0170] Homosalate sold under the name “Eusolex HMS®” by Rona / EM Industries,

[0171] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS®” by Symrise,

[0172] Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the name “DIPSAL ®” by SCHER,

[0173] TEA Salicylate, sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS®” by Symrise.

[0174] Compounds [3,[3 - diphenylacrylate j.

[0175] Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 539®” by BASF,

[0176] Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 35®” by BASF.

[0177] Benzophenone compounds:

[0178] Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name “UVINUL 400®” by BASF,

[0179] Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name “UVINUL D 50®” by BASF,

[0180] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL M 40®” by BASF,

[0181] Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name “UVINUL MS 40®” by BASF,

[0182] Benzophenone-5,

[0183] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11®” by Norquay,

[0184] Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24®” by American Cyanamid,

[0185] Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name “UVINUL DS 49®” by BASF,

[0186] Benzophenone-12,

[0187] 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle sold under the trade name “UVINUL A Plus ®” or in mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL A Plus B®” by the company BASF,

[0188] 1,1 '-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl] - methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion.

[0189] Benzylidene camphor compounds:

[0190] 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SD®” by CHIMEX,

[0191] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX 6300®” by MERCK,

[0192] Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SL®” by CHIMEX,

[0193] Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SO®” by CHIMEX,

[0194] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SX®” by CHIMEX,

[0195] Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SW®” by CHIMEX.

[0196] Phenyl _ benzimidazole compounds

[0197] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK.

[0198] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds j.

[0199] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN AP®” by Haarmann and REIMER.

[0200] Phenyl _ benzotriazole compounds j.

[0201] Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole®” by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0202] Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl _ benzotriazole) compounds:

[0203] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB / 100 ®” by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6Hio05)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6Hio05) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name “TINOSORB M®” by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm in the presence of at least one polyglycerol mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl ester having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392.

[0204] Triazine compounds:

[0205] - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, with the following chemical formula:

[0206] [Chem.l]

[0207] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB S®” by BASF,

[0208] - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL T 150® » by BASF,

[0209] - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB HEB ® » by SIGMA 3V,

[0210] - 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino dineopentyl benzahnalonate)-s-triazine,

[0211] - 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzahnalonate diisobutyle)-s-triazine,

[0212] - n-butyl 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

[0213] - 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzalmalonate of dineopentyl)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate of n- butyl)-s-triazine,

[0214] - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion,

[0215] - triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups such as as described in patent EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethyl-isilyl-ioxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

[0216] Anthranilic compounds j.

[0217] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN MA®” by Symrise.

[0218] Imidazoline compounds:

[0219] Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

[0220] Benzalmalonate compounds j.

[0221] Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

[0222] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene Compounds:

[0223] 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

[0224] Benzoxazole compounds j.

[0225] 2,4-bis-[5-l(diméthylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-l,3,5-triazine vendu sous le nom d'Uvasorb K2A® par Sigma 3V.

[0226] Les filtres organiques préférentiels sont choisis parmi :

[0227] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

[0228] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0229] Homosalate,

[0230] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, [0231 ] Octocrylene,

[0232] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0233] Benzophenone-3,

[0234] Benzophenone-4,

[0235] Benzophenone-5,

[0236] 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle,

[0237] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

[0238] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0239] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,

[0240] Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol,

[0241] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

[0242] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0243] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0244] 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine,

[0245] 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine,

[0246] 2,4-bis-(4’-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

[0247] 2,4-bis-(4’-aminobenzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4’-aminobenzoate de n- butyle)-s-triazine,

[0248] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

[0249] 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine,

[0250] 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine

[0251] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0252] Polysilicone-15,

[0253] 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-diméthyl-propyl)-4,4-diphénylbutadiène,

[0254] 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine,

[0255] and mixtures thereof.

[0256] The particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from:

[0257] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0258] Homosalate,

[0259] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0260] Octocrylene,

[0261] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,

[0262] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0263] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0264] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0265] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0266] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0267] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

[0268] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0269] and mixtures thereof.

[0270] According to a first particular embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

[0271] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0272] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0273] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0274] Octocrylene,

[0275] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0276] and mixtures thereof.

[0277] According to a second particular embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

[0278] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0279] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0280] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0281] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0282] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0283] and mixtures thereof.

[0284] According to a preferred embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

[0285] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0286] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0287] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0288] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0289] and mixtures thereof.

[0290] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of octocrylene. The term "free of octocrylene" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.

[0291] The organic UV filters may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional UV filters

[0292] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV filter.

[0293] The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.

[0294] They can be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.

[0295] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0518773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK and DEGUSSA.

[0296] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0297] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0298] The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides: of silica such as the products "SUNVEIL®" from the company IKEDA, "SUNSIL TIN 50" from the company SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE, of silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA, of silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA®" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE, of alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)®" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14 / 4" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, of alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" from the company UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK, silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ®" from the company TAYCA,of alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S®" from the company TAYCA, of iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F®" from the company TAYCA, of zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351®" from the company TAYCA, of silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®" from the company TAYCA, of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS®" from the company TITAN KOGYO, silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)®" from the company ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from the company TITAN KOGYO,stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W®" from the company TAYCA, TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name "T 805®" by the company DEGUSSA SILICES, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®" by the company CARDRE, anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane sold under the name, commercial "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC®" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES, TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) from CRODA, TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD from CRODA), TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50, TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.

[0299] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters.We can cite more particularly the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRL PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE as the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 ® by the company CRODA.

[0300] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company WACKHER under the name "Transparent titanium oxide PW®", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR®", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS®" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".

[0301] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; those marketed under the name "Nanox®" by the company Elementis; those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0302] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Oxide zinc CS-5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane); those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the company Nanophase Technologies (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols); those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-30®" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50®" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane); those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO®" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in the mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone); those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols with polycondensate of hydroxystearic acid).

[0303] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOÏDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by the company RHONE POULENC.

[0304] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R®)", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name "TY-220®".

[0305] Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345®", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL®", or by the company BASF under the name "OXYDE DE FER TRANSPARENT®".

[0306] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A®", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.

[0307] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0308] When they are present in the composition in accordance with the invention, the mineral UV filters are advantageously present at a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0309] Other possible charges

[0310] The composition according to the invention may further comprise additional fillers other than those based on starch described above.

[0311] By fillers, we mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured, and which do not color the composition.

[0312] The charges can be of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic shape (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, ortho-rbic, etc.). Examples include: talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene, lauroyllysine, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile microspheres such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules.

[0313] The fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0314] Preferably, the composition of the invention does not comprise fillers other than those at least partially of natural origin. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise fillers other than those based on starch.

[0315] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, on the total weight of the composition, and preferably is completely free of microplastic particulate fillers.

[0316] By "microplastic particulate fillers" is meant solid organic particles insoluble in water and with a melting temperature above 120°C, with a D50 in the range of 5 to 100 qm, each particle being based on (more than 98% by weight of the particle) synthetic polymer of petroleum origin, most often thermoplastic.Said microplastic particulate fillers may be expanded or not, spherical or non-spherical, said synthetic polymer being chosen in particular from: polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone, polystyrene, polyethylene, polybutylene polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyamide, nylon, polyurethane, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer, styrene / acrylate copolymer, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, polylactic acid, fluorinated polymers such as PTFE or PVDF, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0317] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is free of microplastic polymeric particulate fillers, such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, like Expancel®.

[0318] Assets

[0319] The composition according to the invention may further comprise an active agent chosen from desquamating agents capable of acting either by promoting exfoliation or on the enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, moisturizing agents, depigmenting or pro-pigmenting agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, 5a-reductase inhibitors, lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants, antimicrobial agents, tightening agents, anti-pollution or anti-free radical agents, anti-inflammatory agents, lipolytic active agents or active agents having a favorable activity, direct or indirect, on the reduction of adipose tissue,agents acting on microcirculation, and agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells.

[0320] The composition according to the invention is in particular intended for topical use, in particular cosmetic or dermatological.

[0321] Adjuvants

[0322] In a known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as preservatives, perfumes, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring matters, salts, surfactants, thickeners, bases. The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, may be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase.

[0323] Finally, the present invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, of at least two types of starches as defined above, to increase the thickness under the finger, in particular to provide a “cushion effect”, at the start of the application of the composition to the skin and to improve the skin finish by reducing the stickiness and increasing the powdery effect on the skin after application.

[0324] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition according to the present invention.

[0325] The composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin or the lips, depending on the use for which it is intended. It can thus be used in a cosmetic skin treatment process, comprising the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin, for example with a view to toning it, regenerating it, smoothing fine lines in the skin, and / or to combat skin aging, against the harmful effects of UV radiation and / or to strengthen skin tissues against environmental aggressions.

[0326] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention can be used for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation.

[0327] The composition may be a care composition, in particular a skin care product such as a skin care base, a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream), a makeup base; a lip care composition (lip balm); a sun protection or self-tanning composition.

[0328] The composition may also be a makeup composition, in particular a skin or lip makeup composition. In particular, the makeup composition may be a foundation, a concealer product, a body makeup product.

[0329] Advantageously, the composition is a leave-in composition.

[0330] The emulsion according to the invention can be prepared according to the following general procedure: Mix the constituents of the aqueous phase by heating to a temperature of approximately 70°C. Furthermore, mix the oils and the surfactants by heating to a temperature of approximately 80°C. Pour the fatty phase into the aqueous phase, at a temperature of approximately 70°C then stir for 10 minutes using a turbine, at high speed. Cool the emulsion obtained to approximately 60°C. Then add the thickeners, then the fillers and stir again for 10 minutes. Then introduce any active ingredients at a temperature of 35°C. Complete the production at 30°C.

[0331] The invention will now be illustrated using the following non-limiting examples. Examples

[0332] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given in % by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions are prepared according to the procedure described above.

[0333] Example 1 - Compositions 1 to 2 [Tables 1] INCI Cosmetic type Cpl com par ative Inv2 invention AQUA WATER QSP 100 57 56.4 GLYCERIN GLYCERINE 7 7 PEG-40 STEARATE SURFACTANT = MYRJ 3 3 SORBITAN TRISTEARATE SURFACTANT = SPAN 1.4 1.4 GLYCERYL STEARATE SURFACTANT 4 4 CETYL ALCOHOL FAT 4 4 MINERAL OIL OIL 10.2 10.2 SQUALANE OIL 5 5 DIMETHICONE SILICONE OIL 6 6 CERA ALBA WAX 1 1 ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRY LOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE CO POLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 GELLING AGENT = SIMULG EL® 600 (SEPPIC) 0.9 0.9 ACRYLONITRILE / METHYL ME THACRYLATE / VINYLIDENE C HLORIDE COPOLYMER POLYMERIC FILLER = EXPANCEL® 0.5 - SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STA RCH FILLER: STARCH G REFFE POLYACRYLA TE = MAKIMOUSSE® -12 (DAITO KASEI KO GYO) 0.1 ZEA MAYS STARCH FILLER: CORN STARCH (BEAUTE-BY-ROQUETTE ST005) - 1

[0334] Example 2 - Compositions 3 to 4 [Tables 2] INCI Cosmetic type Comparative Cp3 Inv 4 invention AQUA WATER QSP 100 51.45 50.65 GLYCERIN GLYCERINE 7 7 PEG-40 STEARATE SURFACTANT = “MYR J” 2 2 SORBITAN TRISTEARATE SURFACTANT = “SPAN 0.9 0.9 GLYCERYL STEARATE SURFACTANT 3 3 CETYL ALCOHOL FAT 4 4 MINERAL OIL OIL 9.7 9.7 SQUALANE OIL 10 10 DIMETHICONE SILICONE OIL 8 8 CERA ALBA WAX 1 1 ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRY LOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE CO POLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 GELLING AGENT = SIMULGE L® 600 (SEPPIC) 1.5 1.5 ACRYLONITRILE / METHYL ME THACRYLATE / VINYLIDENE C HLORIDE COPOLYMER POLYMERIC FILLER = EXPANCEL® 0.5 - SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STA RCH FILLER: STARCH GR EFFE POLYACRYLATE - 0.1 = MAKIMOUSSE®-12 (DAITO KASEI KOGYO) ZEA MAYS STARCH FILLER: CORN STARCH (BEAUTE-BY-RO QUETTE ST005) - 1.2 PHENOXYETHANOL PRESERVATIVE 0.65 0.65 FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.3 0.3

[0335] Stability study

[0336] The stability of the compositions is evaluated macroscopically (Appearance, Color, Odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 month and 2 months at room temperature, at 4°C and at 45°C. All the compositions below (1, 2, 3, 4) have proven to be stable at 2 months under these conditions.

[0337] The stability results of the compositions are as follows (Table 3). [Tables 3] Composition Cpl (comparative) Inv2 (invention) Cp3 (comparative) Inv4 (invention) Macroscopic stability Stable after 2 months at 45°C Stable after 2 months at 45°C Stable after 2 months at 45°C Stable after 2 months at 45°C Microscopic stability Compliant at 1 month and 2 months at T amb, 4°C and 45°C Compliant at 1 month and 2 months at T amb, 4°C and 45°C Compliant at 1 month and 2 months at T amb, 4°C and 45°C Compliant at 1 month and 2 months at T amb, 4°C and 45°C

[0338] Sensory evaluation

[0339] For each of the compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol. The cosmetic properties upon application are evaluated, monadic, by a panel of 20 experts trained in the description of care products. The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is carried out as follows: the products are packaged in pots. Within the same session, the samples are presented in randomized order for each panelist. 20 experts evaluate the descriptors during the different stages, according to the following table 4: first the appearance, then the grip, and the application of a drop of product (0.05 mL) respectively on the back of the hand, the inner side of the forearm, then the face, and finally evaluate the stickiness 2 minutes after application.

[0340] The following Table 4 indicates the descriptors evaluated according to the stage of application of the composition: [Tables 4] Steps Descriptors No. Appearance Shine 1 Smooth 2 Transparent 3 Fluidity 4 Trembling 5 Grip Adhesion 6 Stringy 7 Consistency 8 Keeps its shape 9 Thickness 10 Application on the back of the hand White film 11 Soapy 12 Application on the inner side of the forearm Greasy 13 Slippery 1st turn 14 Slippery 5 turns 15 Slippery 10 turns 16 Slippery 15 turns 17 Slippery 20 turns 18 Slippery 25 turns 19 Application on the face (cheek) Fresh 20 Speed ​​of penetration 21 Fingers remain greasy 22 Immediate sticky skin 23 2 min after application Shiny skin 24 White skin 25 Sticky skin 26 Slippery skin 27 Film-forming 28

[0341] The descriptors are evaluated visually under standardized light, and sensorily, according to a scale rated from 1 to 15: in which in particular 1 = not, 4 = little, 8 = moderately, 12 = quite, 15 = very.

[0342] The descriptors are defined below as well as their operating mode.

[0343] Product appearance:

[0344] Smooth the surface of the product beforehand using a spatula to visually evaluate the following descriptors under standardized light:

[0345] 1- Shine: Ability of the product to reflect light.

[0346] 2- Smooth: Surface appearance without roughness, grains, bubbles, or relief.

[0347] 3- Transparency: Capacity to let light pass through.

[0348] 4- Fluidity: Characterizes the liquid aspect of the product.

[0349] 5- Trembling: The trembling aspect characterizes the elasticity of the product, its capacity to return to its original place elastically after tapping the pot (English jelly type).

[0350] Product intake:

[0351] 6- Adhesion to the finger: Quantity of product adhering to the finger after application of the index on the product.

[0352] 7- Threading: Ability to form a continuous visual thread, after placing the index finger gently on the surface of the product and lift it once quickly by 10 cm.

[0353] 8- Consistency: Force required to draw a line in the product: using the square end of a small spatula, stick it all the way into the pot, then pull it across the entire diameter of the pot.

[0354] 9- Keeps its shape: the more the product returns to its initial shape, the less it “keeps its shape”. Observe the evolution of the deformation carried out during the consistency evaluation after waiting 5 seconds.

[0355] 10- Thickness: Perception of a thick film between the thumb and index finger (less (the thicker the product, the more you feel its fingerprints). The thickness of the product is assessed tactilely. Place 50 qL of product using the pipette on the first phalanx of the index finger and assess the thickness of the product between the thumb and index finger, by performing 4 rotations.

[0356] Application of the product on the back of the hand:

[0357] 11- White film: The product forms a white film upon application.

[0358] Procedure (gesture): Take 50 qL of product, apply it to the first half of the back of the hand; make 5 turns with the index and middle fingers. The white film of the product is visually assessed during the 5 turns.

[0359] 12- Soaping: Formation of a fine foam during the massage.

[0360] Procedure (gestures): Take 50 qL of product, apply it to the second half of the back of the hand, rub very quickly for 5 seconds using the index and middle fingers. The "lathering" is visually assessed during this energetic massage.

[0361] Application of the product on the inner side of the forearm:

[0362] 13- Greasy: Greasy sensation on application.

[0363] Procedure (gesture): Take 100 qL of product and apply it to the inside of the forearm. The fat is then assessed tactilely for 5 rotations.

[0364] 14 to 19- Sliding 1, 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 turns: Ease with which the fingers rotate when applying the cream.

[0365] Procedure (gesture): Take 100 qL of product, apply it to the inner side of the forearm. The criterion is evaluated tactilely on the 1st, 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, and 25th turns.

[0366] Application of the product on half-face:

[0367] Take 100 qL of product. Apply this quantity to the cheek, for the successive evaluation of the freshness and the speed of penetration (during the 8.5 turns). Apply to the cheek: Make 2 central turns, then 6 wider turns. Finish by stretching once from the bridge of the nose towards the ear and then the jaw.

[0368] 20- Fresh: Ability to provide a feeling of freshness.

[0369] 21- Speed ​​of penetration: Speed ​​at which the product is absorbed by the skin, linked to the feeling of the product disappearing.

[0370] 22- Fingers remain greasy: Greasy feeling on the fingers after application.

[0371] Procedure (gesture): After having performed the 8.5 rotations on the cheek. Roll the fingers (thumb, index and middle fingers) to quantify the remaining fat just after application to the face. The assessment is tactile, and is done during the 6th finger roll.

[0372] 23- Immediate sticky skin: Ability of the product to adhere to the back of the hand.

[0373] Procedure (gesture): The sticky effect of the product is evaluated tactilely. This criterion is evaluated by applying and removing the back of the hand from the cheek that has received the product, 2 times maximum. (This evaluation is carried out after the fresh gesture, speed of penetration and fingers remain greasy, which corresponds to 15 seconds after application to the face).

[0374] 2 minutes after applying the product to the face:

[0375] Wait 2 minutes after completing the application. During this time, wash your hands and forearms with soap and water. Pat them dry with a towel.

[0376] For all skin finish assessment descriptors, the assessment area is the cheek.

[0377] 24- Shiny skin: Film that reflects light.

[0378] Procedure (gesture): The shiny effect of the product is assessed visually, using a small mirror and under standardized light.

[0379] 25- White skin: Ability to form a white film upon application.

[0380] Procedure (gesture): The whitening effect of the product is assessed visually, using the small mirror and under standardized light.

[0381] 26- Sticky skin: Ability of the product to adhere to the back of the hand.

[0382] Procedure (gesture): The sticky effect of the product is assessed tactilely. This criterion is assessed by placing and removing the back of the hand from the cheek that has received the product.

[0383] 27- Slippery skin: No perceived braking sensation.

[0384] Operating method (gesture): Touch the cheek that has received the product with the back of the fingers.

[0385] 28- Film-forming: Film remaining present on the skin (comfort effect) and which can be taken.

[0386] Procedure (gesture): The film-forming agent is assessed tactilely, with a light pinching movement of the skin between the thumb, index finger and middle finger.

[0387] The sensory analysis results are indicated:

[0388] - on the graph of [Fig.l], for the compositions Cpl (dash) and Inv2 (solid line)

[0389] - on the graph of [Fig.2], for the compositions Cp3 (dash) and Inv4 (solid line)

[0390] Each graph indicates on the abscissa the score obtained (between 0 and 15) for each description number indicated on the ordinate (descriptions Nos. 1 to 28 of table 4 and as defined above).

[0391] On the two graphs, the solid line curve is that of the composition Inv2, respectively Inv4, according to the invention, while the dashed curve is that of the composition Cpl, respectively Cp3, outside the invention (comparative).

[0392] We observe that, on each of the graphs, the two curves are modeled on each other, the notes obtained for each description are substantially identical (the rare, small differences are considered as insignificant).

[0393] The composition according to the invention, comprising as fillers the combination of a native corn starch and a polyacrylate grafted starch, has the same sensory profile as a composition comprising as fillers synthetic polymeric particles entirely of petroleum origin, typically used to obtain the desired type of characteristic sensory profile: thickness under the finger (see No. 10) on application and powdered skin finish (non-sticky skin, see No. 26) and sensation of skin comfort (thanks to the presence of a light film, see No. 28), after application of the composition to the skin.

[0394] Example 3 - Comparison of the texture under the finger and the skin finish for different types and contents of fillers in the compositions Cp5, Cp 6, Cp 7, Cp8, and Inv 2, Inv6

[0395] [Tables5] INCI Cosmetic type Cp5 Cp6 Cp7 Cp8 Inv2 Inv 9 WATER WATER QSP 100 55.5 55 55.3 56.3 56.4 55.9 GLYCERIN GLYCERIN 7 7 7 7 7 7 PEG-40 STEARATE ACTIVE STRESS = MYRJ 3 3 3 3 3 3 SORBITAN TRISTEAR ATE ACTIVE TENSION = SPAN 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 GLYCERYL STEARATE TENSION ACTIVE 4 4 4 4 4 4 CETYL ALCOHOL BODY FAT 4 4 4 4 4 4 MINERAL OIL OIL 10.2 10.2 10.2 10.2 10.2 10.2 OILED SQUALANE 5 5 5 5 5 5 OILED DIMETHICONE SILICONE 6 6 6 6 6 6 ALBA WAX 1 1 1 1 1 1 ACRYLAMIDE / SODIU M ACRYLOYL DIMETH YL TAURATE COPOLY WATER (and) ISOHEXADE CANE (and) POLYSORB ATE 80 GELIFIANT = SIMULG EL® 600 (SEPPIC) 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 SODIUM POLYACRYL ATE STARCH CHARGE : NOT STARCH G REFFE POLYACRYLA = MAKIMOUSSE® -12 (DAITO KASEI KO GYO) 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.1 ZEA MAYS STARCH CHARGE : BEAUTY-BY-ROCK TTE ST005) - - - 1 1.5 SILICA AMORPHOUS S ILICE MICROSPHERES (5 pm) 2 2 2 1 - -

[0396] The compositions outside the invention comprising as filler, silica Cp5 (Silica 2%), or a combination of silica and polyacrylate grafted starch Cp6 to Cp8, have a skin finish judged too dry by the panel of trained experts. The dry and uncomfortable effect is linked in particular to the absence of film (No. 28) on the skin after application of the composition.

[0397] Conversely, the compositions according to the invention, as evaluated by the same panel of experts, and comprising the combination of native corn starch and polyacrylate grafted starch (Inv2 and Inv9), are characterized by a notable thickness (cushion effect felt) under the finger at the start of application (No. 10), followed by a comfortable non-sticky powdered skin finish (not dry) after the application of each of the 2 compositions according to the invention (Inv2 and Inv9), thanks to the presence of a film (linked to criteria No. 21, 28) which is non-sticky (No. 26, 27) on the skin after the application of the composition

[0398] Example 4 - Comparison of texture under the finger and skin finish for different types of fillers in compositions Cpl, Cp9, CplO, and Inv2

[0399] [Tableauxô] INCI Cosmetic type Cpl Cp 9 Cp 10 Inv2 AQUA WATER QSP 100 57 55.5 57 56.4 GLYCERIN GLYCERINE 7 7 7 7 PEG-40 STEARATE SURFACTANT = MYRJ 3 3 3 3 SORBITAN TRISTEA RATE SURFACTANT = SPAN 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 GLYCERYL STEARA TE SURFACTANT 4 4 4 4 CETYL ALCOHOL FAT 4 4 4 4 MINERAL OIL OIL 10.2 10.2 10.2 10.2 SQUALANE OIL 5 5 5 5 DIMETHICONE SILICONE OIL 6 6 6 6 CERA ALBA WAX 1 1 1 1 ACRYLAMIDE / SODI UM ACRYLOYLDIM ETHYLTAURATE C OPOLYMER (and) IS OHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 GELING AGENT = SIMULGEL ® 600 (SEPPIC) 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 ACRYLONITRILE / M ETHYL METHACRY LATE / VINYLIDENE CHLORIDE COPOLY SEA POLYMERIC FILLER = EXPANCEL® 0.5 SODIUM POLYACR YLATE STARCH FILLER: STARCH GRE FFE POLYACRYLATE = MAKIMOUSSE®-12 (DAI TO KASEI KOGYO) - 0.5 0.1 ZEA MAYS STARCH FILLER: CORN STARCH (BEAUTE-BY-ROQ UETTE ST005) - 2 - 1

[0400] Cpl is the thick, creamy cream containing 0.5% of Expancel®, of the prior art, characterized by a notable thickness, a cushion effect felt (“thickness” No. 10) under the finger at the start of application, and a comfortable powdery skin finish linked to the presence of a film (No. 21, 28) which is not sticky (No. 26, 27) on the skin after application of the composition.

[0401] As a replacement for Expancel®, in the presence of a single type of non-grafted starch-type filler in the Cp9 composition, there is no thickness (No. 10) under the finger at the start of application and the skin finish obtained is further judged by the panel of experts to be: too dry and uncomfortable, linked to the lack of film (No. 28) and the composition penetrating too quickly (No. 21).

[0402] In the presence of a single type of polyacrylate grafted starch (CplO) filler at a content of 0.5%, the composition has a prohibitive foamy pasty appearance, instead of forming a smooth cream like Cpl.

[0403] Conversely, the composition according to the invention, evaluated by the same panel of experts, and comprising the combination of native corn starch and polyacrylate grafted starch (Inv2), is characterized, like Cpl, by a notable thickness and in particular a cushion effect felt ("thickness" No. 10 almost identical to that of Cpl) under the finger at the start of application, followed by a comfortable non-sticky powdered skin finish (presence of a film on the skin) after application of the composition according to the invention (Inv2).

[0404] Example 5: Evaluation by consumers of the two creams from example 1 above (Cpl and Inv2)

[0405] The aim of this “consumer test” is to evaluate the perceived performance for the new composition (without microplastic filler) according to the invention Inv2, compared to that of the usual product of composition Cpl (with Expancel®), which is the usual anti-aging night cream of the panel. In this test, the panel of testers is consisting of 164 women aged 50 to 79, users (at least 4 times a week) of the anti-aging night facial treatment Cpl, produced on the mass market.

[0406] Home use test, monadic, sequential, each woman tried 2 products (current Cpl vs. new formula Inv2) blindly.

[0407] Results: The perceived performance is perfectly identical for the two products, on the key attributes of this type of product:

[0408] - Skin Regeneration and Firmness

[0409] - Anti-aging effect on the evenness of the complexion,

[0410] - Anti-aging effect on smoothing wrinkles and skin,

[0411] - All-day hydration

[0412] - Pleasant appearance,

[0413] - Pleasant texture and application,

[0414] - Immediate skin finish,

[0415] - Immediate hydration and comfort,

[0416] - Feeling of comfort.

[0417] The formula thus modified according to the invention, free of microplastic fillers and comprising instead, a combination of more natural fillers, fulfills the objective of parity with the characteristic performances perceived for the classic Cpl formula comprising microplastic fillers. The effectiveness, perceived by the usual users of the classic Cpl formula, is identical on the 9 aforementioned criteria, in the case of the Inv2 formula according to the invention.

[0418] Ultimately, the present invention has made it possible to replace certain microplastic fillers, by the combination of 2 specific starches, in particular particulate ones, and thus to obtain more natural and more environmentally friendly formulas, without the texture or the sensory profile of the formula being modified, and without any compromise on the performance perceived by the users of the formula.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a) at least one continuous aqueous phase, b) at least one oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, c) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i- at ​​least one ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol, ii- at ​​least one ester chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, characterized in that it further comprises: d) from 0.05 to 1% by weight of at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and e) from 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer comprising a native starch; in which the weight ratio of grafted starch / ungrafted starch is in the range from 1 / 8 to 1 / 15.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one ungrafted starch is chosen from: corn, tapioca, rice, wheat, cassava, barley, potato, sorghum, pea starch, and mixtures thereof.

3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least one ungrafted starch comprises native corn starch.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said at least one starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the grafted starch and the ungrafted starch are in particulate form.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the grafted starch is a superabsorbent polymer.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said grafted starch(es) are present in an active material content ranging from 0.06 to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.07 to 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.08 to 0.15% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.09 to 0.12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the ungrafted starch is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of grafted starch to ungrafted starch is in the range of 1 / 10 to 1 / 15, preferably 1 / 10 to 1 / 12.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester is selected from C16-C22 fatty acid esters comprising from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol is chosen from polyethylene glycol stearates.

12. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester comprises from 20 to 40 ethylene oxide units.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan chosen from sorbitan stearates, in particular sorbitan tristearate.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl chosen from glyceryl stearates.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of sorbitan stearate, in particular sorbitan tristearate, and polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of sorbitan stearate, in particular sorbitan tristearate, of stearate of glyceryl and polyethylene glycol monostearate, preferably comprising 40 EO.

18. Use in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, of at least said two types of starches defined according to any one of claims 1 to 9, to increase the thickness under the finger, in particular to provide a “cushion effect”, at the start of application of the composition to the skin and to improve the skin finish by reducing the stickiness and increasing the powdery effect perceived on the skin after application.

19. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17.

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