Fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peel

Abstract

The present invention relates to a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peel, comprising: - a gluconic acid content greater than 50 mg / g, - an acetic acid content greater than 200 mg / g, and by weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract.

Description

Description Title of the invention: Fermented extract of fruit peels mangosteen FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] — The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to an extract fermented mangosteen fruit peels and the fermentation process allowing for its production, a cosmetic composition containing said fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, and its use in a cosmetic process of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] It is known that aging is induced by endogenous factors (e.g., stress, hormones…) and exogenous factors (e.g., temperature, climate, UV radiation, atmospheric pollution) spherical, cigarette smoke…) leading to a slowing down and / or alteration of different cellular functions. At the skin level, aging manifests itself through various clinical signs, including a loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin, a decrease in skin thickness, the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines, the appearance of a less even complexion, and / or one lacking radiance.

[0003] There is therefore a constant need to find new agents capable of preventing and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, and / or stimulate and / or to promote the biomechanical resilience of the skin, as well as the vitality of the cells cutaneous.

[0004] Unexpectedly, the Applicant highlighted the 'anti-aging' effects of a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels in vitro on a cell culture human (keratinocytes or fibroblasts). Indeed, the fermented extract of barks of Mangosteen fruit can advantageously improve the biomechanical properties of skin mechanics by acting on the expression of essential proteins in the matrix extracellular. Furthermore, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, in as- association with a kombucha extract presents a protective effect equivalent to the Vitamin C counteracts the production of ROS (reactive oxygen species), allowing advantageously reduces oxidative stress in skin cells. These effects therefore allow us to consider the use of this fermented extract of fruit peels of mangosteen to promote and / or strengthen the firmness, density and / or tension of the skin, and / or promote and / or strengthen the elasticity, extensibility and bio- resilience skin mechanics and thus prevent and / or reduce the alteration of skin elasticity skin and / or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines and / or preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging, but also to prevent and / or reduce oxidative stress skin cells and thus promote and / or stimulate the vitality of skin cells, and / or promote and / or stimulate the homogeneity or radiance of the complexion. Summary of the invention According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, comprising: - a gluconic acid content greater than 50 mg / g, and - an acetic acid content greater than 200 mg / g, in weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract. Preferably, said fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention is in liquid form and comprises at least one preservative, preferably selected from butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate and propanediol. Another aspect of the invention relates to a process for fermenting mangosteen fruit peels comprising the following steps: a) the incubation of a consortium of microorganisms in a solution comprising at least water, a carbohydrate and black tea leaves infused at a temperature between 12 and 45°C for 1 to 21 days in order to obtain a preparation of symbiotic ferments, said consortium comprising at least one lactic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Lactobacillus or Pediococcus, at least one yeast belonging to the genus Saccharomyces, Schizosaccharomyces or Torulaspora, and at least one acetic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter or Komaga- taeibacter; b) grinding mangosteen fruit peels to obtain particles with an average size ranging from 0.5 mm to 1 mm; c) maceration of the particles obtained in step b) in water in the presence of a carbohydrate; d) filtering the maceration mixture to remove plant particles; e) the addition of the symbiotic starter culture preparation obtained in step a) to the filtrate of step d) to obtain a fermentation mixture, D) Incubating the fermentation mixture at a temperature between 21 and 35°C for 15 to 25 days; £) sieving and then filtering the fermentation mixture to obtain a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, and h) optionally, the addition of at least one preservative. Preferably, according to said process, the mangosteen fruit peel particles are added to the maceration medium of step c), at a concentration of 30g to 70g per liter, preferably 40g to 60g per liter and preferably at a concentration of approximately 50 g of particles per litre. Preferably, according to said process, the carbohydrate is added to the maceration medium of step c), at a concentration of 30g to 70g per liter, preferably 40g to 60g per liter and preferably at a concentration of about 50g of carbohydrate per liter. The present invention also relates to a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels obtained by the process as described above, According to another aspect, the present invention relates to the association of a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, as described above, and a kombucha extract. The present invention further relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels as described above. According to a particular embodiment, the said cosmetic composition is characterized in that it further comprises a kombucha extract. Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is present in a content ranging from 0.0000012% to 0.0825%, preferably from 0.000006% to 0.033%, more preferably from 0.000012% to 0.0165% by weight of active material (dry matter of fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels) relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that the Kkombucha extract is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 5%, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, said cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant selected from the group consisting of antioxidant agents, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, said cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a milk, a cream, an ointment, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or a multiple emulsion, a balm, a stick, a solution, a suspension, a gel, a lotion, a serum, or even a powder. The present invention further relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above. Preferably, said cosmetic process is characterized in that it is intended to to promote and / or strengthen the firmness, density and / or tension of the skin, and / or to promote and / or strengthen the elasticity, extensibility and biomechanical resilience of the skin and thus prevent and / or reduce the alteration of skin suppleness and / or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging. The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels as defined above as a cosmetic active ingredient to promote and / or strengthen the firmness, density and / or tension of the skin, and / or promote and / or strengthen the elasticity, extensibility and biomechanical resilience of the skin and thus prevent and / or reduce the alteration of skin suppleness and / or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging. The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of at least one fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels as defined above and at least one kombucha extract, as a combination of cosmetic active ingredients intended to prevent and / or reduce oxidative stress on skin cells and thus promote and / or stimulate the vitality of skin cells, and / or promote and / or stimulate the homogeneity or radiance of the complexion. DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES [Fig.1] Effect of fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels on collagen I production in normal human fibroblasts (HNF). [Fig.2] Effect of fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels on elastin production in normal human fibroblasts (HNF). [Fig.3] Effect of fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels on MMP2 production in normal human fibroblasts (HNF). [Fig.4] Effect of fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels on Vinculin production in normal human fibroblasts (HNF). [Fig.5] Effect of fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels on fibronectin production in normal human fibroblasts (FHN). [Fig.6] Effect of fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels and an extract of Nepal Kombucha, alone or in combination on the production of ROS in normal human keratinocytes (KHN). DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Garcinia mangostana or mangosteen The mangosteen, whose scientific name is Garcinia mangostana, is a tropical tree belonging to the Clusiaceae family. Garcinia mangostana is a hermaphroditic tree, bearing one or two male flowers at the tip of each branch. The female flowers develop into fruit after fertilization. The fruit, spherical and smooth, is initially greenish-white, turning purplish-red when ripe. Mangosteen fruit typically takes two to three months to ripen. The rind, 6 to 10 mm thick, surrounds the edible portion. Considered a superfruit, Garcinia mangostana is very rich in antioxidants. In the context of the present invention, the fermented extract of Garcinia mangostana, or mangosteen, is obtained from the fruit of the Garcinia mangostana plant, or mangosteen, and preferably from the fruit peel or pericarp of the Garcinia mangostana plant. For simplicity, the expression "mangosteen fruit peel" will be used in this description, but this expression refers to the peel of the Garcinia mangostana fruit. Fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels The peels or pericarp of mangosteen fruits are used in a fermentation process to generate a fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract, which is the subject of the present invention. Reference may also be made in the remainder of this description to a "fermented mangosteen extract," but it is understood that, in the context of this invention, the term "fermented mangosteen extract" refers to a "fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels." It is further specified that in this description, the expression "fermented extract" refers to the product obtained from the fermentation process, preferably after filtration, as well as any product that has undergone additional steps, such as a formulation step (for example, by adding a preservative). According to a particular method, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, also referred to as "fermented mangosteen extract," according to the invention, is in the form of an aqueous solution of fermented extract comprising fermented dry extract, water, and a preservative. The fermented extract in the form of an aqueous solution is also referred to as "raw material" in the description, as opposed to "dry material" or fermented dry extract. According to a particular method, the aqueous solution of fermented extract comprises the fermented extract in an active content (dry matter) ranging from 0.5 to 4% by weight, in particular 1 to 3% by weight, preferably 1.7 to 2.7% by weight, and in particular 1.2 to 1.9% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of raw material (aqueous solution of fermented extract), water, and a preservative, preferably propanediol. The water content will generally range from 60 to 80% by weight, in particular 65 to 75%, and in particular 68 to 69% by weight relative to the total weight of raw material (aqueous solution of fermented extract), and the preservative content (for example, propanediol) will generally range from 20 to 40% by weight, in particular 25 to 35% by weight. in particular 30% by weight relative to the total weight of raw material (aqueous solution of fermented extract). Thus, the invention also relates to a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels in the form of a solution comprising 1 to 2% by weight of active material of fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, 65 to 75% by weight of water and 25 to 30% by weight of propanediol. Preferably, the aqueous solution of fermented extract, otherwise called 'raw material', the characterization of which is illustrated below, comprises 1.2 to 1.9% active matter (dry matter) of fermented extract, 28.1 to 28.8% water and 30% propanediol relative to the total weight of raw material (aqueous solution of fermented extract). According to a particular and preferred method, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention is characterized by a gluconic acid content greater than 50 mg / g, and an acetic acid content greater than 200 mg / g, by weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract. According to a particular method, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels comprises a gluconic acid content greater than 5%, preferably ranging from 5 to 15%, and an acetic acid content greater than 20%, preferably ranging from 20 to 50%, by weight relative to the weight of dry extract (dry matter) of the fermented extract. Preferably, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels comprises a gluconic acid content ranging from 5 to 15%, more preferably ranging from 6 to 10% by weight relative to the dry weight of the fermented extract. Preferably, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels comprises an acetic acid content of 20 to 50%, more preferably of 25 to 35% by weight in weight relative to the dry weight of the fermented extract. Fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract may contain other organic acids, such as malic acid, pyruvic acid, quinic acid, succinic acid, and citric acid. Fermented mangosteen extract may also contain: - a malic acid content ranging from 0.1 to 0.5%, preferably from 0.15 to 0.7%, more preferably from 0.17 to 0.5%, by weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract, - a pyruvic acid content ranging from 0.01 to 1%, preferably from 0.02 to 0.5%, more preferably from 0.04 to 0.1%, by weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract, - a quinic acid content ranging from 0.1 to 1.5%, preferably from 0.2 to 1%, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.7%, by weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract, - a succinic acid content greater than 0.1% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1.5%, preferably 0.2 to 1%, more preferably 0.4 to 0.7%, by weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract, and / or - a citric acid content ranging from 0.05 to 1%, preferably from 0.08 to 0.7%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%, by weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract. Preferably, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels does not contain glucuronic acid or tartaric acid. Fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract may also contain one or more preservatives. A "preservative" is defined as a compound intended to preserve the composition of the extract or the cosmetic composition containing it from any physicochemical and / or microbial alteration. Preferably, at least one preservative is selected from among butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, and propanediol. According to a preferred embodiment, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention is in liquid form and comprises at least one preservative, preferably selected from butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, and propanediol. More preferably, the preservative is propanediol. The fermented extract may include one or more preservative(s) at a final concentration of between 10 and 40%, preferably between 20 and 38%, preferably between 25 and 35%, more preferably 30% by weight relative to the total weight, preferably at least one of the preservatives described above is chosen from butylene glycol, glycerin and propanediol. Fermentation process According to one aspect of the invention, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is obtained by a fermentation process comprising the steps of: a) the incubation of a consortium of microorganisms in a solution comprising at least water, a carbohydrate and black tea leaves infused at a temperature between 12 and 45°C for 1 to 21 days in order to obtain a preparation of symbiotic ferments, said consortium comprising at least one lactic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Lactobacillus or Pediococcus, at least one yeast belonging to the genus Saccharomyces, Schizosaccharomyces or Torulaspora, and at least one acetic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter or Komaga- taeibacter; b) grinding mangosteen fruit peels to obtain particles with an average size ranging from 0.5 mm to 1 mm; c) maceration of the particles obtained in step b) in water in the presence of a carbohydrate; d) filtering the maceration mixture to remove plant particles; e) adding the symbiotic starter culture preparation obtained in step a) to the filtrate from step d) to obtain a fermentation mixture, D) Incubating the fermentation mixture at a temperature between 21 and 35°C for 15 to 25 days; (g) sieving and then filtering the fermentation mixture to obtain a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, and h) optionally, the addition of at least one preservative. According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for fermenting mangosteen fruit peels comprising the steps of: a) the incubation of a consortium of microorganisms in a solution comprising at least water, a carbohydrate and black tea leaves infused at a temperature between 12 and 45°C for 1 to 21 days in order to obtain a preparation of symbiotic ferments, said consortium comprising at least one lactic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Lactobacillus or Pediococcus, at least one yeast belonging to the genus Saccharomyces, Schizosaccharomyces or Torulaspora, and at least one acetic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter or Komaga- taeibacter; b) grinding mangosteen fruit peels to obtain particles with an average size ranging from 0.5 mm to 1 mm; c) maceration of the particles obtained in step b) in water in the presence of a carbohydrate; d) filtering the maceration mixture to remove plant particles; e) adding the symbiotic starter culture preparation obtained in step a) to the filtrate from step d) to obtain a fermentation mixture, f) incubating the fermentation mixture at a temperature between 21 and 35°C for 15 to 25 days; (g) sieving and then filtering the fermentation mixture to obtain a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, and h) optionally, the addition of at least one preservative. Consortium of microorganisms The term "fermentation process" refers to a process for obtaining a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels by culturing a consortium of microorganisms, as defined herein, in a medium containing a carbohydrate and allowing their growth. Fermentation may take place under batch, continuous, or fed-batch culture conditions. Fermentation may be carried out aerobically, microaerobically, and / or anaerobically. The term "consortium of microorganisms" refers to an assembly of at least three species of microorganisms that can coexist in a stable and reproducible manner. Advantageously, microorganisms allow for the combination of complementary activities. As a non-limiting example, the use or assimilation of a carbon source by a first species allows the production of metabolites that can then be metabolized by a second species. The consortium of microorganisms according to the present invention comprises: 1) at least one microorganism belonging to the lactic acid bacteria group, 11) at least one microorganism belonging to the yeast group, and iii) at least one microorganism belonging to the group of acetic acid bacteria. Preferably, at least one microorganism belonging to the group of lactic acid bacteria is a microorganism of the order Lactobacillales of the family Lactobacillaceae, in particular those belonging to the genera Lactobacillus and Pediococcus, such as Lactobacillus plantarum and / or Lactobacillus acidophilus, more preferably L. plantarum. Preferably, at least one microorganism belonging to the yeast group is a microorganism of the order Saccharomycetales of the family Saccharomycetaceae or of the order Schyzosaccharomycetales of the family Schyzosaccharomycetaceae, in particular those belonging to the genera Saccharomyces, Schyzosaccharomyces or Torulaspora. Preferably, at least one microorganism belonging to the yeast group is Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Torulaspora delbrueckii, Saccharomyces boulardii and / or Schyzosaccharomyces pombe. Preferably, at least one microorganism belonging to the acetic acid bacteria group is a microorganism of the order Rhodospirillales, family Acetobacteraceae, specifically those belonging to the genera Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and Komagataeibacter (also called Gluconacetobacter). The acetic acid bacteria may originate from unpasteurized cider or wine vinegar with an acidity level of 4% to 5%, preferably from commercially available cider vinegar labeled "Organic Agriculture" according to the European Union definition. Preferably, the acetic acid bacteria are added to the consortium by directly adding an aliquot of vinegar to the composition containing the other microorganism species. In addition to the dominant acetic acid bacteria, vinegars contain a complex natural indigenous flora, some of which can coexist with the added microorganisms.Another part will decline during the establishment of the consortium, in the same way that the symbiotic development of all the microorganisms forming the consortium prevents the development of undesirable species, including pathogenic species. According to a preferential method, the consortium comprises: - at least one lactic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Lactobacillus or Pediococcus, more preferably chosen from Lactobacillus plantarum and Lactobacillus acidophilus, - at least one yeast belonging to the genus Saccharomyces, Schyzosaccharomyces or Torulaspora, more preferentially chosen from among Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomyces boulardii, Schyzosaccharomyces pombe and Torulaspora delbrueckii, and - at least one acetic acid bacterium from cider vinegar or wine vinegar, preferably belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter or Komaga-taeibacter. Step a): Preparation of a microorganism culture, also called preparation of symbiotic cultures According to a first step, a) of the process, a culture of microorganisms (that is, a consortium comprising the microorganisms as described above) is prepared. This step advantageously activates and multiplies the microorganisms while establishing a stable and balanced consortium. In this step, the various microorganisms that will be present in the consortium are introduced into a solution comprising a carbohydrate (also called a "nutrient medium") and optionally an aqueous extract of tea leaves to generate a microbial suspension. The suspension is then incubated for 1 to 21 days to prepare the culture of microorganisms (that is, the consortium). The solution comprises at least one carbohydrate, generally one or more mono- or disaccharides. This may be a pure sugar, such as sucrose, glucose, or fructose, or a processed or co-product, such as molasses. Preferably, the solution comprises a carbohydrate selected from sucrose, glucose, or fructose, molasses, or a mixture of one or more of these. Preferably, the carbohydrate is sucrose or a mixture of glucose and fructose. Preferably, at least one carbohydrate is present at a concentration between 20 g / L and 100 g / L, preferably between 50 and 95 g / L of solution. Preferably, the nutrient medium comprises sucrose, or a mixture of glucose and fructose, at a concentration of 50 g / L. In a particular manner, the solution may further comprise an aqueous extract of tea leaves (Camellia sinensis). Preferably, the aqueous extract is obtained from an infusion of tea leaves, preferably black tea leaves. Preferably, the aqueous extract of tea leaves may be a black tea infusion prepared with 2 g / L to 50 g / L of tea leaves, more preferably with 5 g / L to 10 g / L of tea leaves. Tea is prepared by adding dried leaves to water infused at a temperature of 70°C to 90°C for 10 to 60 minutes. Preferably, 5 g / l to 10 g / l of tea leaves infused for 15 minutes at 80°C are used. The infusion can be used as is with the leaves, or more conveniently the aqueous phase is filtered. Microorganisms can be introduced into the nutrient medium in dry and / or moist form; the inoculation rate can range from 10 CFU / g to 10 CFU / g of solution. The microbial suspension can then be incubated at temperatures ranging from 12°C to 45°C, preferably from 17°C to 38°C, preferably from 25°C to 35°C, more preferably at 25°C, 26°C, 27°C, 28°C, 29°C, 30°C, 31°C, 32°C, 33°C, 34°C, or 35°C, and even more preferably at 26°C. A particularly advantageous method is to incubate the incubation in an open reactor, without the need to maintain aseptic conditions. The suspension can be incubated for 1 to 21 days, preferably for 1 to 15 days, preferably for 1 to 10 days, more preferably for 3 to 4 days, and even more preferably for 3 or 4 days. At the end of the incubation period, the total flora in the suspension can be between 10 and 10⁷ CFU / g. The resulting consortium is capable of reacting with a natural substrate, such as mangosteen fruit peels, in an aqueous medium to make accessible, and potentially transform, a wide variety of the compounds it contains. According to step b), the peel of the mangosteen fruit is coarsely ground to obtain particles. The peel particles advantageously have an average size ranging from 0.05 mm to 5 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 3 mm, preferably from 0.2 mm to 2 mm, and even more preferably from 0.5 mm to 1 mm. Preferably, the peels are raw. Preferably, the peels are separated from the pulp of the mangosteen fruit. Preferably, the peels are dried before being ground. Step b) can be carried out either before, at the same time or after step a). E ; ération d icules d e le fruits di According to step c), the particles obtained in step b) are macerated in water in the presence of at least one carbohydrate. By "maceration" we mean that the particles obtained in step b) remain in a liquid (in this case a mixture of water and carbohydrates) to extract active and / or nutritive principles and / or to obtain a modification of said particles, such as their softening or hydration. The maceration solution comprises at least one carbohydrate, usually one or more mono- or disaccharides. This may be a pure sugar, such as sucrose, glucose, or fructose, or a processed or co-product, such as molasses. Preferably, the solution comprises a carbohydrate selected from sucrose, glucose, or fructose, molasses, or a mixture of one or more of these. These. Preferably, the carbohydrate is sucrose or a mixture of glucose and fructose. Preferably, at least the carbohydrate is added to the maceration medium of step c), at a concentration of 30 g to 70 g per liter, preferably 40 g to 60 g per liter, and preferably at a concentration of about 50 g per liter. The mangosteen fruit peel particles are introduced into the maceration medium as described above, at a concentration of 30 g to 70 g per liter, preferably 40 g to 60 g per liter, and preferably at a concentration of about 50 g per liter. The maceration solution can be incubated for 1 to 21 days, preferably 1 to 15 days, preferably 1 to 10 days, at a temperature ranging from 12°C to 45°C, preferably 17°C to 38°C, preferably 20°C to 30°C, more preferably at 20°C, 21°C, 22°C, 23°C, 24°C, 25°C, 26°C, 27°C, 28°C, 29°C, or 30°C. Step d) Filtration of the maceration mixture The maceration mixture is then filtered in step d). "Filtering" here refers to a step that separates the solid and liquid fractions. The solid fraction may include any remaining mangosteen fruit peel particles. Advantageously, filtration removes all plant particles from the mixture, resulting in a mangosteen fruit peel macerate free of solid residues, also called a filtrate. This filtration step can be carried out using one or more sieves and / or filters. Preferably, step d) is a sieving step. É| ÿ ion d' ] ie fe ; According to step e) of the process, the preparation of symbiotic starter cultures, comprising the microorganism culture obtained according to step a) and a carbohydrate, is added to the filtrate of step d) to obtain a fermentation mixture. Preferably, the preparation of symbiotic starter cultures obtained in step a) is added to the filtrate of step d) at a concentration of between 5% and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the fermentation medium, preferably between 7% and 13%, and more preferably at 10%. Preferably, the consortium of microorganisms is present in the fermentation medium at a concentration ranging from 10° CFU / g to 10⁶ CFU / g of fermentation medium. Step f): Incubation According to step f) of the process, the fermentation mixture obtained in step e) is then incubated to ensure the fermentation of the filtered macerate of mangosteen fruit peels. Incubation takes place at a temperature between 12°C and 45°C, preferably between 25°C and 35°C, more preferably at 25°C, 26°C, 27°C, 28°C, 29°C, 30°C, 31°C, 32°C, 33°C, 34°C, or 35°C, even more preferably at 26°C. Incubation is carried out for a period of 10 to 30 days, preferably for 15 to 25 days, more preferably for 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 or 25 days, even more preferably 20 days. In one particular aspect, incubation takes place in an open reactor, without the need to ensure aseptic conditions. In another particular aspect, incubation takes place at a humidity level between 20% and 60%, preferably between 30% and 50%, and more preferably at 40%. In yet another particular aspect, fermentation takes place under static conditions, i.e., without agitation. Step g): filtration The fermentation mixture is then filtered in step g). "Filteration" here refers to a step that separates the solid and liquid fractions. The solid fraction may include microorganisms. Advantageously, filtration removes all microorganisms present in the mixture, resulting in a sterile fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peel. Filtration can be carried out using one or more sieves and / or filters. In one embodiment, step g) consists of one or more filtration steps, preferably including at least one sieving step and / or at least one sterilizing filtration step. Preferably, step g) includes one sieving step and one sterilizing filtration step. Preferably, the sterilizing filtration is performed on a filter with an average pore size of between 0.1 µm and 0.2 µm, preferably 0.2 µm.Advantageously, sieving removes a large proportion of microorganisms, including live cells and those clumped together. Advantageously, sterile filtration removes all non-spore-forming live microorganisms quickly and inexpensively. Preferably, at least one of the filters is a cellulose filter. Step h): ; 'formulation (optional) The process described above yields a clarified fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels. However, in some cases, it may be advantageous to perform one or more additional steps, such as concentration or formulation. The process according to the invention may therefore further comprise at least one additional step subsequent to step (g) of concentration or formulation. In a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention further comprises, after the filtration step (g), one or more of the following steps aimed in particular at adapting the composition to a particular formulation: - a concentration step; and / or - a formulation step. Each optional step identified above can be present as a sup- step a single additional step of the process, or in combination with one or more other optional steps. Preferably, the fermentation process includes a step h) of adding at least one preservative to the fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract. Preferably, said preservative is selected from butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, and propanediol, more preferably propanediol. In some cases, at least two preservatives may be added to the fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract. Preferably, the preservative is added to the fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract in step h) at a final concentration of between 20 and 40%, preferably between 25 and 35%, more preferably 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the extract in solution.When the preservative is added to the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels from step g) at a final concentration of between 20 and 40%, said preservative is selected from butylene glycol, propanediol and propylene glycol. The fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is preferably stored at about 4°C (4 + 2°C) and / or in the dark after filtration step g) or after any other step where an additional step is present after step g). When the process includes the addition of at least one preservative, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is preferably stored at room temperature. Fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract is listed under the international INCI nomenclature: "WATER, PROPANEDIOL, GARCINIA MANGOSTANA FRUIT PEEL EXTRACT, LACTOBACILLUS FERMENT LYSATE, YEAST FERMENT EXTRACT". This product contains, in particular, 1.2 to 1.9% by weight of dry fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract in a water / propanediol mixture. Combination of a mangosteen fruit peel extract according to the invention and a kombucha extract Kombucha Kombucha is a tea that has undergone a microbiological transformation. This transformation is a fermentation by a symbiotic yeast of the genus Saccharomyces, which lives within a polysaccharide matrix produced by a Xylinum bacterium. The exact composition of this symbiosis (in particular the proportions of each species) varies with geographical and climatic conditions and depends on the local wild subspecies of yeast and bacteria; however, some examples include, but are not limited to: Saccharomyces ludwigii, Saccharomyces apicalutus, Bacterium xylinoides, Bacterium gluconicum, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Acetobacter ketogenum, Torula species, Pichia fermentans, and other yeasts. In kombucha literature, this symbiotic culture of yeast and bacteria is also called a "mushroom," a "champion of longevity," and many other synonyms. This fermentation process is quite unique because the alcohol produced by the yeast from the sugar is transformed by the bacteria into various acids: glucuronic, lactic, usnic, and especially acetic acid, which gives kombucha its tangy flavor and a final pH between 2.5 and 4. Furthermore, the Xylinum bacterium, known as the "acetic acid bacteria," also uses the sugar present in the tea and transforms the sucrose into cellulose microfibrils, thus forming the supporting membrane in which the yeast nests and grows. The products of yeast metabolism are excreted in kombucha and consist of many vitamins such as B1, B2, B3 and B12, essential cofactors for bacterial growth. Kombucha, also known as "mushroom tea," is a popular therapeutic remedy long known by various names [FRANK G., 1999]. It is a refreshing, amber-yellow beverage with a sweet-tart, cider-like taste. Its effects have been known and appreciated for generations by many peoples, especially in East Asian countries. The tea used to make kombucha can be of any type and origin, including Camellia sinensis varieties sinensis or assamica. All varieties of green tea, semi-fermented tea, black tea, smoked black tea, yellow tea, dark tea, white tea, herbal or fruit teas, and infusions can be used as a base for kombucha. All varieties of green tea, semi-fermented tea, black tea, smoked black tea, yellow tea, dark tea, and white tea (all Camellia sinensis) are preferred, and black tea in particular. The term "kombucha" in the present invention includes synonyms such as comboucha, cajnyj kvas (Russian), Combuchagetrânk (German), Kargasoktee (German), komboecha-drank (Dutch), Kombuchakwal (German), tea-beer and tea-cider (English), etc. Similarly, the symbiont, the "mushroom of long life," is also called, among other things: cajnyj grib (Russian), Japanese or Chinese mushroom, miracle mushroom, comboucha, combucha (Japanese), fungojapon, fungus japonicus (pharmaceutical designation), funko cinese (Italian), ganoderma japonicum, japanischer Teepilz (German), kombucha, ling zhi (Chinese), mandschurischer Schwamm, russische Blume, tea fungus kombucha, Wolgaqualle (German), Zauberpilz, etc. Surprisingly, the Applicant was able to demonstrate through in vitro tests that the combination of fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract and a kombucha extract reduced oxidative stress in normal human keratinocytes (see example 5). This result is all the more unexpected given that each of these Extracts, taken individually, do not produce this type of effect. Thus, one aspect of the invention relates to the combination of a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention (as described above) and a kombucha extract, preferably a kombucha extract from Nepal. According to a particular embodiment, the kombucha extract used in the combination in the present invention is the product marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name KOMBUCHKATM. The process for obtaining this extract is described in particular in French patent FR 2 843 023. Advantageously, this same process can be used to obtain other kombucha extracts, in particular a kombucha extract from Nepal. Thus, according to another particular and preferred embodiment, the kombucha extract used in association in the present invention is a kombucha extract from Nepal obtained according to the process described in French patent FR 2 843 023 or the process described below. According to one embodiment, said kombucha extract, preferably said kombucha extract from Nepal, is prepared as follows: In a wide-mouthed glass container, sweetened tea, containing at least 5 g of tea (black, for example) per liter and at least 70 g of sugar per liter, is fermented with the symbiotic culture (SCOBY) (the "kombucha longevity fungus"), of which approximately 25 to 100 g / l is added to the sweetened tea. The fermentation container is placed in a warm location for several (5 to 12) days. After filtering, the kombucha is ready, and the SCOBY is collected for the next fermentation. In the kombucha preparation, 10% of kombucha obtained from a previous batch may be added to the mixture of sweetened tea and SCOBY to facilitate the initiation of fermentation. Cosmetic composition Surprisingly, the inventors demonstrated that fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract has beneficial effects on the skin, notably improving its biomechanical properties by influencing the expression of essential extracellular matrix proteins such as type I collagen, elastin, fibronectin, metalloproteinase 2 (MMP2), and vinculin. Thus, fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract helps combat age-related signs of skin aging, including loss of firmness and / or elasticity. According to the invention, fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is used in an effective quantity to obtain the desired effect. It can be used as is or advantageously incorporated into a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to keratinous materials. In particular, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is used as is or is present in a cosmetic composition. Also, another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention. By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition intended for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic purposes, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips. By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response. According to the invention, "keratinous materials" refers to skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly to human skin and / or lips. Specifically, this includes skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and lips, preferably facial and / or neck skin. The keratinous materials according to the invention include, in particular, healthy keratinous materials (from "healthy" subjects), that is to say, materials not exhibiting any disorders or abnormalities indicative of a pathological condition (from "unhealthy" subjects, those suffering from a pathology). The terms "healthy skin" and / or "skin" and / or "lips" will be used interchangeably throughout the rest of this description. The fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is present in the composition of the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.0001% to 5%, preferably from 0.0005% to 2%, and more preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight of raw material (fermented extract solution obtained according to the process described above) relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is present in the composition of the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.0000012% to 0.095%, preferably from 0.000006% to 0.033%, and more preferably from 0.000012% to 0.0165% by weight of active material (fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels) relative to the total weight of the composition. According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also include, in addition to the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, at least one kombucha extract, in particular the product marketed by SEDERMA under the trade reference KOMBUCHKATM or, according to a preferred embodiment, a kombucha extract from Nepal obtained according to the process described in French patent FR 2 843 023 or the process described previously in the description. Kombucha extract is present in the compositions of the invention in an effective quantity to obtain the desired effect, in particular to enable, when combined with fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract, the prevention and / or to reduce oxidative stress on skin cells and thus promote and / or stimulate skin cell vitality, and / or promote and / or stimulate an even or radiant complexion. In particular, the kombucha extract is present in a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 10%, specifically from 0.02% to 5%, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition. The physiologically acceptable medium generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of said composition. The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally the preservative as defined above. In a particular embodiment, said cosmetic composition comprising a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention, and optionally kombucha extract as described above, is a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips and especially of the skin of the face and / or neck. The cosmetic composition of the invention generally comprises, in addition to the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels and the physiologically acceptable medium, one or more acceptable cosmetic excipients from among those known to the person skilled in the art in order to obtain a composition for topical application for example in the form of a milk, a cream, an ointment, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or a multiple emulsion, a balm, a stick, a solution, a suspension, a gel, a lotion, a serum, or even a . The cosmetic composition of the invention may also be in the form of a patch or a mask, in particular a mask in the form of a thick cream, or in the form of a cellulose mask soaked in fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels or a composition containing it. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of a cream, emulsion, solution, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, or serum. When the composition is in the form of an emulsion, the emulsion may be an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion. The cosmetic composition of the invention may be presented in any galenic form suitable for topical application to keratinous materials, particularly of the skin and / or lips, and especially of the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels and at least one cosmetic ingredient selected from antioxidants, perfumes, vitamins, thickening agents, emollients, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, firming agents, plumping agents, soothing agents, anti-pollution agents, brightening or depigmenting agents, fillers, mother-of-pearl, and their mixtures. Also, according to a preferred object of the invention, the cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidant agents, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes and mixtures thereof. Depending on the nature of the composition, one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients will be selected from emulsifiers, polymers, surfactants, rheology agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, colorants, and mixtures thereof. As a specific example, cosmetic composition may include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof. Typically, the additional ingredients advantageously used in the composition of the invention can be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight (of raw material) relative to the total weight of the composition. cosmetic process The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips and especially of the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising the topical application on said keratinous materials of at least one layer of the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels or of a cosmetic composition containing it as described according to the invention. The cosmetic process of the present invention is in particular intended to promote and / or strengthen the firmness, density and / or tension of the skin, and / or promote and / or strengthen the elasticity, extensibility and biomechanical resilience of the skin and thus prevent and / or reduce the alteration of the skin's suppleness and / or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging. By "to promote and / or enhance the firmness, density and / or tension of the skin, and / or to promote and / or enhance the elasticity, extensibility and biomechanical resilience of the skin" we mean that the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is intended to promote the expression of proteins essential to the architecture and function of the extracellular matrix. By "preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging" we mean in particular that the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is intended to reduce and / or delay the loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, loss of density, dryness of the skin, loss of suppleness, and / or the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines. According to a particular method, said fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention or said cosmetic composition containing it is applied to a skin that is aged or shows signs of aging. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips and especially of the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising the topical application on said keratinous materials of at least one layer of the combination of the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention and a kombucha extract, as described above, or of a cosmetic composition containing these two extracts. According to this embodiment, the cosmetic process is intended in particular to prevent and / or reduce oxidative stress on skin cells and thus promote and / or stimulate the vitality of skin cells, and / or promote and / or stimulate the homogeneity or radiance of the complexion. By "to promote and / or stimulate the vitality of skin cells", we mean in particular that the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is intended to promote the general condition of the skin, its radiance. By "preventing and / or reducing the alteration of the homogeneity or radiance of the complexion" we mean in particular that the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is intended to reduce and / or delay the appearance of imperfections or micro-reliefs of the skin, dark circles, a dull, lackluster and / or uneven complexion. According to a particular method, said fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention or said cosmetic composition containing it is applied to aged skin or skin showing signs of aging, preferably aged skin or skin showing signs of aging. According to a particular method, said fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention, alone or associated with said kombucha extract as described above, or said cosmetic composition containing it, is applied to skin that is aged or showing signs of aging and / or skin that is exposed to stress, and / or tired, and / or has a dull and uneven complexion. By "stressed skin" we mean that the skin is subjected to stress of endogenous or exogenous origin, including oxidative stress which may induce unsightly non-pathological skin reactions — e.g. the skin is visibly tired and / or dull and lackluster. The skin and lips on which the compositions of the invention are applied are healthy, that is to say, not showing any disorders or disturbances which would be indicative of a pathological condition (subjects "not healthy", suffering from a pathology). Advantageously, the compositions comprising fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels used in the cosmetic process of the invention are those described above. Uses of Fermented Mangosteen Fruit Peel Extract Another object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention for topical application on keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and especially the skin of the face and / or neck, as a cosmetic active ingredient intended to promote and / or strengthen the firmness, density and / or tension of the skin, and / or promote and / or strengthen the elasticity, extensibility and biomechanical resilience of the skin and thus prevent and / or reduce the alteration of skin suppleness and / or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging. Another object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one fermented extract of mangosteen fruit rind according to the invention and at least one kombucha extract, as described above, for topical application to keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, and especially the skin of the face and / or neck, as a combination of cosmetic active ingredients intended to prevent and / or reduce oxidative stress in skin cells and thus promote and / or stimulate skin cell vitality, and / or promote and / or enhance the evenness or radiance of the complexion. EXAMPLES The invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1: Obtaining a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to the invention 1.1. Materials and methods Consortium of microorganisms The microorganisms that are part of the consortium include: - at least one lactic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Lactobacillus or Pediococcus, - at least one yeast belonging to the genus Saccharomyces, Schizosaccharomyces or Torulaspora, and - at least one acetic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter or Komagataeibacter. Preparation of mangosteen fruit peels Mangosteen fruits are first dried, then the peels are collected and ground to obtain particles ranging in size from 0.5 mm to 1 mm. Preparation of the nutrient medium Tea is prepared from 5 g / L to 10 g / L of tea leaves infused for 10 to 60 minutes at 70°C to 90°C. Sucrose is then dissolved in the aqueous phase at a concentration between 20 g / L and 100 g / L, generally 50 g / L. The sucrose may in particular, it could be replaced by a mixture of glucose and fructose. Fermentation process Fermentation of mangosteen fruit peels was carried out according to a process comprising the following steps: a) the incubation of a consortium of microorganisms in a solution comprising at least water, a carbohydrate and infused black tea leaves (in other words the "nutrient medium") at 26°C for 3 to 4 days in order to obtain a culture also called preparation of symbiotic ferments; b) the grinding of previously dried mangosteen fruit peels to obtain particles, as described above; c) maceration of the particles obtained in step b) in water in the presence of a carbohydrate: - Mangosteen fruit peel particles are added at a concentration of 50 grams per liter of water; - the carbohydrate is added at a concentration of 50 grams per liter of water; d) the filtration of the maceration mixture to remove plant particles; e) the addition, at a concentration of 10% (weight / weight), of the symbiotic ferment preparation obtained in step a) into the filtrate of step d) to obtain a fermentation mixture. .) the incubation of the fermentation mixture at a temperature of 26°C for 20 days; (g) Filtration of the fermentation mixture by coarse sieving followed by filtration through a cellulose filter having an average pore size of 0.2 µm in order to obtain a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peel, and (h) the addition of propanediol (solvent and preservative) to the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels at a final concentration of 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract in liquid form. 1.2. Results A fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is obtained in the form of a translucent aqueous solution with a concentration of 1.7 to 2.7% by weight of active matter (dry matter) of mangosteen fruit peels relative to the total weight of the extract. The effect of this extract will be illustrated in the following examples. Example 2: Obtaining an aqueous (unfermented) mangosteen extract - comparative extract 20 g of coarsely ground mangosteen fruit peel were added to a stoppered Erlenmeyer flask containing 200 mL of H2O MilliQ. The Erlenmeyer flask was placed The mixture was ultrasonically cleaned for 20 minutes. It was then vacuum-filtered using a 47 mm Whatman GF / F filter. The filtrate was partially dried in a GENEVA EZ-2 PLUS centrifugal evaporator, and drying was completed using a ZEODRY+PLUS ZD+L under 5 mbar vacuum following a drying gradient. A reddish-brown dry extract was obtained. The dry extract yield ranged from 12% to 13.5% by weight of raw material. Example 3: Phytochemical characterization of fermented mangosteen extracts (extract according to the invention obtained in example 1) and unfermented mangosteen extracts (comparative extract obtained in example 2) Objective of the study: The objective is to analyze the effect of fermentation on aqueous extracts of mangosteen fruit peels, by carrying out a phytochemical study by HPTLC (high-performance thin-layer chromatography) and qualitative and quantitative analyses by HPLC-DAD-MS of polyphenols and organic acids. 3.1. Materials and methods High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) Polyphenol identification and organic acid quantification were performed by liquid chromatography on an Agilent InfinityLab LC / MSD system coupled with a DAD detector and mass spectrometry (Agilent). HPLC separated the compounds present in the extracts, and UV chromatograms were obtained by UV detection with DAD at several wavelengths: 210, 254, 280, 320, 360, and 520 nm. The separated molecules were then ionized at the source by an electrospray ionizer and analyzed using a simple quadrupole detector. MS detection was performed using an electromultiplier tube. A total ion chromatogram (TIC) analysis was performed for masses between 100 and 1000 Da in both positive and negative modes. Data acquisition and processing were carried out using Control Panel software. LYOMdiog aphie u ou he min eàhau EPEKQOUNANCE COUDIÉE d'lASDE ÊQmeé ie High-performance thin-layer chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry is a relatively rapid and efficient technique for characterizing the molecules of an extract. Spot desorption was performed with the solvent MeOH / H₂O (1 / 1)(v / v) and 0.1% formic acid using the pump of the Agilent InfinityLab system, and then the analysis was carried out by mass spectrometry via the CAMAG TLC-MS interface. 3.2. Results The fermentation process generates a fermented extract of fruit peels from mangosteen (according to the invention) having a composition very different from extracts of unfermented mangosteen fruit peels (comparative extract of Example 2). In particular, the extracts contain a variety of polyphenols and sugars with different concentrations between the unfermented and fermented extracts, but for each of these two extracts, few or no amino acids and nonpolar molecules. Fermentation reduces the quantity of certain polyphenols, but the fermented extract is observed to be richer in organic acids. Table 1: Organic acids present in fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract compared to an aqueous (unfermented) mangosteen fruit peel extract (in mg per g of dry extract) [Table 1] 'Acid | Acid | Acid Acid Acid | Malic acid | Pyruvic acid | Quinic acid [ Succinic acid | Citric acid | Acetic acid eeee Acid; |gluconic | e bas / e mg / g |mg / g |mgg |mgg |mgg |mg / e mg / g [L942 0.357 |5.153 |4423 |2222 [295.425 [75.744 Extract [1942 0.357 |5.153 4.423 2.222 |295.425 [75.744 fermented mangosteen fruit peel (invention) Extract [4358 jo [15324 Jo Jp595 jo6os |s7268 fermented mangosteen fruit peel (comparative) Fermenting mangosteen fruit peels helps to increase the content of: of gluconic acid, succinic acid and pyruvic acid which have effects beneficial to skin texture by increasing glyco- production proteins, collagen and elastic fibers; and of acetic acid, known for its antibacterial properties. Example 4: Effect of fermented mangosteen extract on the expression of cell matrix markers Objective of the study: The effect of the fermented mangosteen extract according to the invention has This study was evaluated based on the expression of proteins present in the extracellular matrix (ECM) and / or responsible for anchoring fibroblasts to the ECM. These proteins therefore possess biological functions related to skin firmness, density, tension, as well as its elasticity, extensibility, and biomechanical resilience. 4.1. Materials and Methods Cell culture and processing The cells used for this study are Normal Human Fibroblasts (NHF) from an abdominoplasty of a 37-year-old female donor. The cells were thawed in DMEM 1g / L glucose supplemented with 10% Fetal Bovine Serum (FBS) at passage 5, at 1.10 cells in a T150 flask. The FHNs were trypsinized at pre-confluence and seeded in 96-well plates (u-plate 96 well, ibiTreat from Ibidi) at a density of 10,000 cells per well in complete DMEM medium (1g / L glucose +10% FBS), then placed in the incubator at 37°C, 5% CO2. After 3 days of incubation, the cells were treated with fermented mangosteen extract (as obtained by the procedure described in Example 1) at concentrations of 0.5% and 1% (by weight of extract), or with aqueous (unfermented) mangosteen extract at a concentration of 0.01% (by weight of extract) in complete DMEM medium (1 g / L glucose + 10% FBS). Treatment was carried out for each condition (8 replicates) for 5 days, with the culture medium including the fermented mangosteen extract being replenished (retreatment) on the 3rd day of culture following the initial treatment. For the untreated control condition, the medium was replaced with fresh culture medium. After a total of 5 days of treatment, the cells were rinsed twice with PBS (PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO). The cells were then fixed with formalin (Formalin Solution 10%, Neutral Buffered, Sigma) for 10 minutes and then rinsed 3 times with PBS. Immunostaining The membranes of the fixed cells were permeabilized, or not (depending on the primary antibody used), with a PBS / Triton 0.1% solution (Triton x-100, Sigma) for 10 minutes at room temperature and then rinsed with PBS. The permeabilized cells were incubated in a 1% PBS / BSA solution (Bovine Serum Albumin, Sigma) for at least 30 minutes at room temperature to saturate non-specific sites. The primary antibodies targeting the proteins of interest (see Table 2) were diluted in a 1% PBS / BSA solution. The cells were incubated overnight at 4°C in the presence of the primary antibody solution. At the end of the incubation period, the cells were rinsed 3X with PBS and covered of a 1% PBS / BSA solution containing labeled secondary antibodies targeting the specific primary antibody (see Table 3) and DAPI (4°,6'-diamidino-2-phenylindole dihydrochloride, Molecular Probes Life Technologies; diluted 1 / 500). DAPI is a DNA intercalating agent that allows for the visualization of cell nuclei. The cells were then incubated for one hour in the dark and at room temperature with the secondary antibody solution and DAPI. Finally, the cells were rinsed 3X with PBS and each well of the plates was filled with 200 µL of PBS. [Tables 2] Primary Antibody Target Supplier Reference Species Dilution P Collagen 1 |Novotee [20111 [Rabbit [v300 | Elastin Novotec 25011 Rabbit |1 / 200 |- Fibronectin |Abcam Ab2413 Rabbit 1 / 500 |- |MMP2 | [Abcam | |AbO2536 [Rabbit [1300 |+ |Vinculin |Neomarkers [MS-1209-P1 | |Mouse |1 / 1000 |+ Species Dilution Permeabilization [Rabbit [v300 | Rabbit [1200 |- Rabbit |1 / 500 |- [Rabbit 1300 |+ [Mouse | 171000 |+ [Tables 3] Secondary Antibodies Name of |Supplier [Reference |Species |Citation |p. antibody |Alexa Fluor 568 [tnvitrogen [A11011 Goat anti-|1 / 400 |+ [Alexa Fluor 568 [fnvitrogen [A11011 Goat anti-|1 / 400 |+ Rabbit [Alexa Fluor 568 [nvitrogen [A1 1004 Goat anti-|1 / 400 |+ Mouse Image acquisition and analysis via the High Content screening platform. The plates were scanned with the Thermo Cellomics ArrayScan XTi, with the following acquisition parameters: DAPI detection using the XF53_386_23 filter Detection of the Alexa Fluor 568 antibody with the XF53_572_15 filter. Resolution of 1104 x 1104 The 10x sec objective 25 images per well (i.e., 25 x 8 replicas = 200 images per condition). The images were analyzed using the "Spot Detector" image analysis application in Studio (Thermo) software. This software detects the labeling (colored red) of the target protein, corresponding to its expression in cells. The measurement area was delimited and defined as the entire image area. The number of cells was determined by counting the DAPI-labeled nuclei. The results are expressed as the intensity of the detected labeling per cell count to obtain quantification. Statistical analyses Statistical analyses were performed using Microsoft Excel. These analyses consisted of calculating the mean, standard deviation, and confidence interval (α = 0.05) of the ratio of total labeling intensity to number of cells, averaged across the analyzed well. The significance of the results was calculated using a two-tailed Student's t-test. Results are expressed as mean ± standard error (SEM), and a difference is considered significant at p < 0.05 (* p < 0.05; ** p < 0.01; *** p < 0.001). 4.2. Results The results are shown in Figures 1 to 5. They show the protein expression of Collagen I, Elastin, Metalloprotease 2, Vinculin or Fibronectin (expressed as total intensity per cell) in each of the evaluated conditions, i.e.: Untreated control (also referred to as UNTREATED CONTROL in the figures) 1 to 5). Condition treated with fermented mangosteen extract at a 0.5% dilution (such as that obtained in example 1, also called FERMENTED MANGOSTAN SR (in figures 1 to 5), Condition treated with fermented mangosteen extract at a 1% dilution (such as that obtained in example 1, also called FERMENTED MANGOSTAN SR (in figures 1 to 5), Condition treated with unfermented mangosteen extract at dilution 0.01% (as obtained in example 2, also called AQUEOUS DRY EXTRACT) (MANGUSTAN in figures 1, 2, 4 and 5) Note that a concentration of fermented mangosteen extract at a dilution of 1% corresponds to the same quantity of raw material (mangosteen fruit peels) as a concentration of unfermented mangosteen extract at a dilution of 0.01%. Type I collagen is the main type of collagen found in the skin. Collagen I promotes skin firmness and density, while also providing elasticity and extensibility that contribute to the skin's biomechanical resilience. skin. Together, the effects of collagen help to reduce wrinkles. The data show that fermented mangosteen extract, compared to the untreated control, induces a significant increase (+28% at the 0.5% dose and +24% at the 1% dose) in collagen I production in FHN ([Fig. 1]). The increase induced by fermented mangosteen extract is therefore significantly greater than that observed with unfermented mangosteen fruit peel extract (+8%; [Fig. 1]). Effect of fermented mangosteen extract on elastin expression Elastin is a protein belonging to the family of structural fibrous proteins. Secreted by fibroblasts, it is the major component of the skin's elastic fibers. Elastin therefore promotes skin elasticity and bounce. The data show that fermented mangosteen extract, compared to the untreated control, induces a significant increase (+88% at the 0.5% dose and +145% at the 1% dose) in elastin production in FHN ([Fig. 2]). No increase is observed with unfermented mangosteen fruit peel extract ([Fig. 2]). (MMP2) Metalloprotease 2 is a secreted or membrane proteolytic enzyme that acts on various proteins of the extracellular matrix and connective tissue such as collagen, gelatin, and elastin. The data show that fermented mangosteen extract induces, compared to the untreated control, a significant increase (+15% at dose 0.5% and +52% at dose 1%) in MMP2 production in FHN ([Fig.3]). Vinculin is a cytoskeletal protein associated with cell-cell and cell-matrix junctions. Vinculin has a high affinity for actin filaments / microfilaments and is involved in anchoring F-actin to the membrane. It therefore plays a key role in maintaining the shape of fibroblasts by creating a tension effect. Thus, vinculin promotes skin tension, elasticity, and firmness. The data show that fermented mangosteen extract induces, compared to the untreated control, a significant increase (+36% at the 0.5% dose and +44% at the 1% dose) in vinculin production in FHN ([Fig. 4]). No increase is observed with unfermented mangosteen fruit peel extract ([Fig. 4]). Fibronectin plays a key role in the adhesion between the extracellular matrix and the It has a high affinity for collagens I and III. It contributes to the integrity and biomechanical properties of the skin, as well as its firmness. Data show that fermented mangosteen extract induces, compared to the untreated control, a significant increase (+39% at the 0.5% dose and +40% at the 1% dose) in fibronectin production in FHN ([Fig. 5]). No increase is observed with unfermented mangosteen fruit peel extract ([Fig. 5]). 4.3. Conclusions The results obtained with fermented mangosteen extract are therefore significantly superior to those obtained with unfermented mangosteen fruit peel extract. These results show that the fermented mangosteen extract according to the invention stimulates the expression of ECM or ECM-associated proteins, such as collagen I, elastin, MMP3, vinculin, and fibronectin. Thus, these results demonstrate that the fermented mangosteen extract according to the invention can be used to promote and / or enhance skin firmness, density, and / or tone, and / or promote and / or enhance skin elasticity, extensibility, and biomechanical resilience, thereby preventing and / or reducing the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. Example 5: Antioxidant effect of fermented mangosteen extract and kombucha extract, tested alone or in combination Objective of the study: This study aims to evaluate the effect of fermented mangosteen extract according to the invention and Nepalese kombucha extract (prepared according to the process described above), either alone or together, on ROS production in response to TBHP (tert-butyl hydroperoxide)-induced oxidative stress. This study aims to assess whether the fermented mangosteen extract according to the invention possesses protective antioxidant properties. 5.1. Materials and methods Cell culture and processing This study was conducted on normal human keratinocytes (HNH) obtained from an abdominoplasty of a 47-year-old Caucasian woman. After thawing, the keratinocytes were seeded in passage 4 into 150 cm³ flasks (T150) in Epilife medium supplemented with HKGS (human keratinocyte growth supplement) for amplification. After pre-confluence trypsinization, KFINs were seeded at passage 5 into 96-well black transparent bottom plates (TC-treated Corning Costar), at a rate of 15,000 cells per well. After 24 hours of culture, the cells were either pretreated or untreated (control condition) for 24 hours with the active ingredients (tested alone) Kombucha Nepal at 3% (obtained according to the process described above), 1% fermented mangosteen (obtained by the process described in Example 1), or in combination with 3% Nepalese kombucha + 1% fermented mangosteen in Epilife medium supplemented with HKGS. Vitamins E and C were included as positive controls in the experimental design, at concentrations of 25 µM and 100 µg / mL, respectively. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) measurement using the H2DCF-DA probe The dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (H,DCF-DA) probe is a permeable and stable probe used for the detection of reactive oxygen species (ROS). When used in a cellular application, the acetate groups are cleaved by membrane esterases, yielding the non-fluorescent dichlorodihydrofluorescein (H,DCF) product. This molecule is distributed cytoplasmically and is not specific to any single type of ROS. When the probe encounters ROS or nitric oxide (NO), it is oxidized to a fluorescent product, dichlorodifluorescein (DCF), which can be measured using a spectrofluorometer. This test highlights the antioxidant power of an active ingredient by its ability to reduce the amount of ROS produced within the cell, under stressed conditions compared to a corresponding control. Preparation and incorporation of the H,DCF-DA probe The H,DCF-DA probe (molecular weight = 487.29 g / mol) is handled in the dark. After 24 hours of pretreatment with the active ingredients in Epilife medium supplemented with HKGS, the HKGS was removed and the microplates were rinsed with PBS heated to 37°C. Then, 200 µL of the H,DCF-DA probe (Invitrogen), prepared at 25 µM in PBS + Ca²⁺ + Mg (Gibco) from a 25 mM stock solution in DMSO, was loaded into each well. The microplates were incubated at 37°C with 5% CO₂ for 30 minutes. ROS induction After probe incubation, the cells were rinsed with warm PBS before receiving TBHP (ret-butyl hydroperoxid), a highly oxidizing chemical compound and ROS generator. The cells were incubated with or without 200 µM TBHP for 30 mins at 37°C, 5% CO₂, in Epilife medium without HKGS. At the end of incubation, the microplates were rinsed twice with PBS, and fluorescence was then read using the BMG Labtech FLUOstar (bottom reading, gain = 1500, ε₀ = 485 nm, Δem = 520 nm). BCAA dosage After reading, the PBS was removed and the microplates were frozen at -80°C pending protein quantification, which was performed 24 hours later using the BCA method. The reagents for the quantification were prepared extemporaneously: reagent A (Sigma Bicinchoninic Acid) and reagent B (Sigma Copper Sulfate) were mixed with The ratio was 1 to 50. The colorimetric assay is based on the reduction of copper (B) by proteins, making it reactive with the present bicinchoninic acid (A). The previously obtained ROS fluorescence quantification results (RFU) were then normalized with the amount of protein measured in each well (in µg). Statistical analyses Statistical analysis of the results was performed using Microsoft Excel. This analysis consisted of calculating the mean, standard deviation, and confidence interval (α = 0.05) of the measured fluorescence (RFU) normalized by the amount of protein per well (µg). The significance of the differences observed between the control and treated samples was measured using Student's t-test, which was considered significant if its value was less than 0.05 (* p < 0.05; ** p < 0.01; *** p < 0.001). 5.2. Results The results are shown in [Fig.6]. They show the production of ROS in KHN (expressed in units of relative fluorescence) under each of the evaluated conditions, i.e.: Stress-free control, Stressed control with TBHP (200pM), TBHP (200 µM) stressed control, treated with vitamin E (control positive), TBHP (200uM) stressed control, treated with vitamin C (control positive), TBHP-stressed condition (200 / M), treated with mangosteen extract fermented at a 1% dilution (as obtained in example 1), TBHP (200uM) stressed condition, treated with kombu extract- Nepalese cha (prepared according to the process described above) at a 3% dilution, Stressed condition with TBHP (200uM), treated with the Mangosteen combination fermented (as obtained in example 1) at a 1% dilution + Nepal kombucha (prepared according to the process described above) at a 3% dilution. The results confirm that TBHP, which is a chemical compound with strong oxidizing power, induces a very strong increase in ROS production in TBHP-stressed KHN with an increase of +1583%, compared to the unstressed control. The results also confirm that vitamin E and vitamin C possess antioxidant properties described in the literature (used as positive controls). A 65% decrease in ROS production was observed for vitamin E tested at 25 µg / mL, and a 37% decrease in ROS production was observed for vitamin C tested at 100 µg / mL, compared to the TBHP-stressed control. Regarding the extracts used, it was observed that fermented mangosteen extract (tested at 19) and Nepal Kombucha (tested at 3%), tested alone, did not show any inhibitory effect on ROS production. However, and surprisingly, the combination of these two extracts (1% fermented mangosteen extract and 3% Nepal Kombucha) resulted in a strong and significant reduction in ROS production (-36% compared to the stressed control). 5.3. Conclusions These results therefore show that the combination of a fermented mangosteen extract and a kombucha extract has a protective effect equivalent to vitamin C (positive control) against the production of ROS in normal human keratinocytes stressed by TBHP. Thus, these results demonstrate that the combination of fermented mangosteen extract and kombucha has strong antioxidant activity. Example 6: Examples of cosmetic compositions The fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels as prepared in Example 1 is formulated in the following illustrative and non-limiting compositions, prepared according to classic cosmetic formulation methods. 6.1. Composition in the form of a lotion [Tables 4] [Ingredients | by weight Glycerin 6.0000 Butylene Glycol 5.0000 Cetyl Alcohol 1.0000 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 9.000 Fermented Mangosteen Extract* 0.2000 |Fragrance, Neutralizers, Preservatives qs Purified Water qsp 100% * prepared according to example 1 When applied to the skin, particularly the face, this composition provides an anti-aging action with beneficial effects on skin firmness and / or elasticity. 6.2. Composition in the form of a serum [Tables 5] Ja q sp 100% © *prepared according to example 1 The serum is applied to the entire face, particularly to areas showing signs of aging. The serum, containing fermented mangosteen fruit peel extract according to the invention, promotes skin density and elasticity, resulting in firmer, younger-looking skin. 6.3. Composition in the form of a rich cream [Tables 6] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Glycerin 7.5000 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Aerylate Crosspolymer 0.3000 Xanthan Gum 0.2000 Cetyl Alcohol / Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-75 / Ceteth / Steareth-2 5.2500 C10-C18 Triglycerides 5.0000 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 2.5000 Cetyl Alcohol 1.0000 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 8.2000 |Citric Acid 0.0200 Trisodium Citrate 0.1400 Fermented Mangosteen Extract* 0.1000 Kombucha Nepal 0.0800 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2000 Fragrance, Neutralizer, Preservative Qs |Purified Water qsp 100% * prepared according to example 1 Applied to the skin, particularly on the face, alone or following the application of a serum, this composition provides an antioxidant action, promoting the homogeneity and radiance of the complexion.

Claims

Demands

1. Fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, comprising: - a gluconic acid content greater than 50 mg / g, and - an acetic acid content greater than 200 mg / g, in weight relative to the weight of dry extract of the fermented extract.

2. Fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to claim- dication 1, characterized in that it is in liquid form and that it includes at least one preservative, preferably selected from the butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, benzoate sodium, potassium sorbate and propanediol.

3. A process for fermenting mangosteen fruit peels comprising the following steps: a) the incubation of a consortium of microorganisms in a solution including at least water, a carbohydrate, and black tea leaves infused at a temperature between 12 and 45°C for 1 to 21 days in order to obtain a preparation of symbiotic ferments, said consortium including at least one lactic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Lactobacillus or Pediococcus, at least one yeast belonging to the genus Saccharomyces, Schizosaccharomyces or Torulaspora, and to less an acetic acid bacterium belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluco- nobacter or Komagataeibacter; b) the grinding of mangosteen fruit peels to obtain particles having an average size ranging from 0.5 mm to 1 mm; c) maceration of the particles obtained in step b) in water presence of a carbohydrate; d) filtering the maceration mixture to remove particles plant-based; e) the addition of the symbiotic starter culture preparation obtained in step a) in the filtrate from step d) to obtain a fermentation mixture, f) the incubation of the fermentation mixture at a temperature including between 21 and 35°C for 15 to 25 days; g) sieving and then filtering the fermentation mixture in order to to obtain a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels, and h) optionally, the addition of at least one preservative.

4. A method according to claim 3, wherein the bark particles of Mangosteen fruits are added to the maceration medium of step c), at a concentration ranging from 30g to 70g per liter, of preferably 40g to 60g per liter and preferably at a concentration of approximately 50 g of particles per litre.

5. A method according to claim 3, wherein the carbohydrate is added in the maceration medium of step c), at a concentration ranging from 30g to '70g per liter, preferably 40g to 60g per liter and preferably to a concentration of approximately 50 g of carbohydrate per liter.

6. Fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels obtained by the method according to any one of claims 3 to 5.

7. Association of a fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels according to claim 1, 2 or 6 and a kombucha extract.

8. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiological medium Legally acceptable, a fermented extract of fruit peels mangosteen according to claim 1, 2 or 6.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it also includes a kombucha extract.

10. | Cosmetic composition according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the fermented extract of mangosteen fruit peels is present in a content ranging from 0.0000012% to 0.0825%, preferably of 0.000006% to 0.033%, more preferably from 0.000012% to 0.0165% by weight of active ingredient (dry matter of fermented extract) of mangosteen fruit peels) relative to the total weight of said com- position.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 9 or 10, characterized in that the kombucha extract is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 5%, of preference of 0.05% to 4% by weight of raw material (weight of product) relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that it further comprises at least one adjuvant cosmetic chosen from the group consisting of antioxidant agents, emollients, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and their blends.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that it is in the form of milk, cream, of an ointment, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or of a multi-emulsion, a balm, a stick, a solution, a suspension, gel, lotion, serum, or powder.

14. | Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, including application to said keratinous materials, of at least one layer of a com- cosmetic position as defined in any of the claims instructions 8 to 13.

15. A cosmetic process according to claim 14, characterized in that it is intended to promote and / or enhance firmness, density and / or tension of the skin, and / or promote and / or enhance elasticity, extensibility and biomechanical resilience of the skin and thus prevent and / or reduce altered skin elasticity and / or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging.

16. Cosmetic use of a fermented extract of fruit peels mangosteen as defined according to any one of claims 1, 2 or 6 as a cosmetic active ingredient to promote and / or enhance firmness, skin density and / or tension, and / or promote and / or strengthen the elasticity, extensibility and biomechanical resilience of the skin and thus preventing and / or reducing the alteration of skin elasticity and / or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines and / or preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging.

17. Cosmetic use of at least one fermented extract of barks of mangosteen fruit as defined in any one of claims 1, 2 or 6 and at least one kombucha extract, as a combination of active ingredients cosmetics designed to prevent and / or reduce oxidative stress skin cells and thus promote and / or stimulate cell vitality skin, and / or promote and / or stimulate the homogeneity or radiance of the complexion.