Hair treatment processes comprising the application, after bleaching, of compositions comprising amino acids and hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair treatment process for keratin fibers, comprising: - a step of applying a bleaching composition, then - a step (ii) of applying a cosmetic composition B1 comprising amino acid-type compounds and C2-C8 hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, then - a step (iii) of applying a cosmetic composition B2 comprising amino acid-type compounds and C2-C8 hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, steps (ii) and (iii) being separated by a maximum of 2 hours.The invention also relates to a hair treatment process for keratin fibers, comprising: - a step of applying a bleaching composition, then - a step of applying a cosmetic composition B1 comprising amino acid type compounds, C2-C8 hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and at least 0.6% polysaccharide, then - a step of applying a cosmetic composition B2 comprising amino acid type compounds, C2-C8 hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, and less than 0.6% polysaccharide.

Description

Title of the invention: Hair treatment methods comprising the application, after bleaching, of compositions comprising amino acids and hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for hair treatment, in particular for coloring and / or bleaching keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of at least two compositions each comprising particular amino acids and carboxylic acids, after application of a bleaching composition.

[0002] It is known to implement hair bleaching processes in order to modify the color of natural hair. These processes generally consist of the application to the keratin fibers of hair compositions comprising chemical oxidizing agents and optionally direct dyes and / or oxidation dyes.

[0003] These hair coloring or bleaching compositions certainly have a coloring or bleaching power but they can sometimes be responsible for a degradation of the quality of the fiber, the constituent proteins of the hair being able to be denatured, thus generating labile proteins. The higher the level of labile proteins, the more the hair is damaged.

[0004] This degradation of the quality of the fiber can lead to significant breakage when combing the hair, particularly when these compositions are applied to sensitized hair. Also, it is common to use hair care compositions using conditioning agents in order to limit the degradation or improve the cosmetic properties of the hair. However, these hair care compositions can, in certain cases, alter the coloring or bleaching of the keratin fibers thus treated.

[0005] Furthermore, the coloring or bleaching performance may not always be satisfactory, particularly in terms of the rise, intensity or homogeneity of the coloring or in terms of lightening when the hair is sensitized by repeated chemical treatments such as dyes, bleachings, perms and / or straightening and / or when the hair is loaded with minerals and / or their metallic salts. Indeed, tap water can sometimes contain significant levels of metals such as copper which, by accumulating on the hair over successive washes, can have a negative impact on the result of coloring or bleaching. Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metallic salts because of the presence on its surface of anionic functions which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic functions of keratin. Minerals, often polyvalent cations, will therefore be attracted and captured by this negatively charged fiber by forming chemical bonds which prevent their release by conventional hair treatment processes. This results in a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. Such fixation depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question but also on the nature and length of the hair (in particular porosity and charge) as well as its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metallic salts can cause changes in the hair fiber and, in particular, a more or less marked change in the cosmetic properties of the hair. Thus, an accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dry, lackluster hair, while an accumulation of copper can lead to greening of the hair.

[0007] Furthermore, the accumulation of metallic salts (iron, copper, for example) can accelerate damage to the hair because they catalyze redox reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals which can be harmful to the keratin fiber, even at low levels.

[0008] This can result in photo-degradation of the fiber, lightening of the fiber, as well as an alteration of the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of the hair; these phenomena are particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening products or coloring products.

[0009] In other words, hair can become less resistant, more weakened, or even break more easily, or even lose its shine, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metallic salts.

[0010] It is therefore necessary to find a technical solution to overcome these various drawbacks, in order to ultimately improve the coloring or bleaching of hair, in particular hair sensitized by repeated chemical treatments and / or loaded with minerals and / or metal ions.

[0011] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives could be achieved using the method according to the invention, which comprises the application of particular compositions, after a step of bleaching the keratin fibers.

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, in particular a coloring and / or bleaching process, comprising:

[0013] - a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition ca discoloring pill A, then

[0014] - a step (ii) of applying to said keratin fibers, a composition cosmetic B1 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, then

[0015] - a step (iii) of applying to said keratin fibers, a composition cosmetic B2 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts;

[0016] step (ii) and step (iii) being spaced apart by a maximum of 2 hours, in particular a maximum of 90 minutes, or even a maximum of 60 minutes, even better a maximum of 30 minutes, better still a maximum of 15 minutes.

[0017] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, in particular a coloring and / or bleaching process, comprising:

[0018] - a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition ca discoloring pill A, then

[0019] - a step (ii) of application to said keratin fibers of a composition cosmetic B1 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds; one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts; and one or more polysaccharides present in a total amount of at least 0.6% by weight, then

[0020] - a step (iii) of applying to said keratin fibers, a composition cosmetic B2 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds; one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts; and one or more polysaccharides present in a total quantity strictly less than 0.6% by weight.

[0021] It has been found that the methods according to the invention make it possible to improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of shine, undesirable effects likely to be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium, within said fibers.

[0022] After implementing one of the methods, the fibers are as if reinforced, said reinforcement being improved with successive applications of the composition.

[0023] The methods according to the invention also make it possible to provide conditioning properties to the hair, in particular a smooth feel, softness, shine and easy detangling, while providing strength, body and a mass effect to the hair.

[0024] Thus, the methods according to the invention are particularly suitable for hair sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, particularly following physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, for example coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0025] They are also particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of hair loaded with metals, in particular loaded with metals at contents of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm; in particular loaded with copper, in particular at contents of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm and / or loaded with calcium, in particular at contents of at least 4000 ppm, better still at least 10,000 ppm.

[0026] It has also been found that the second process described above allows better penetration of the active ingredients into the hair, as well as better deposition of the conditioning composition (optionally applied at the end of the process). Process

[0027] For the sake of clarity, it is specified that in the remainder of this description, and unless otherwise indicated, 'the method' means one or other of the methods described above; the term 'the method' must therefore be interpreted as 'the methods'.

[0028] In the method according to the present invention, steps (i), (ii) and (iii) are carried out successively, and in this order.

[0029] The hair treatment process according to the invention therefore comprises a step (i) of application to the keratin fibers of a bleaching hair composition A, a preferred embodiment of which is described in more detail below.

[0030] This step (i) may or may not be followed by a setting time, for example from 1 to 60 minutes, in particular from 15 to 50 minutes.

[0031] This step may be followed, after the possible exposure time, by a step of rinsing the keratin fibers, for example with water.

[0032] Preferably, step (i) is followed by a rinsing step.

[0033] The method according to the invention then comprises a step (ii) of application on said keratin fibers, of a cosmetic composition B1 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0034] A preferred embodiment of said composition B1 is described in more detail below.

[0035] This step (ii) may or may not be followed by a setting time, for example from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 10 minutes of said composition B1.

[0036] According to a variant, this step (ii) can be followed, after the possible exposure time, and before step (iii), by a step of rinsing the keratin fibers, for example with water.

[0037] According to another variant, this step (ii) can be followed, after the possible exposure time and before step (iii), by a step of washing the keratin fibers, for example using a shampoo, followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0038] A preferred embodiment of said shampoo composition is described in more detail below.

[0039] Preferably, step (ii) is followed by a washing step and then a rinsing step.

[0040] Optionally, it is possible to integrate at this stage in the process according to the invention, a step of coloring the keratin fibers, using a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dyes.

[0041] This coloring step is carried out in the usual manner, by applying a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dyes, the application preferably being followed by a setting time, for example between 1 and 60 minutes, in particular between 15 and 45 minutes, then advantageously followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0042] A preferred embodiment of said coloring composition is described in more detail below.

[0043] Optionally but advantageously, this coloring step can be followed by a step of washing the keratin fibers, for example using a shampoo, followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0044] Preferably, the coloring step is followed by a rinsing step, then a washing step, itself followed by a rinsing step.

[0045] The method according to the invention then comprises a step (iii) of application to said keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition B2 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0046] A preferred embodiment of said composition B2 is described in more detail below.

[0047] This step (iii) may or may not be followed by a setting time, for example from 1 to 30 minutes, in particular 2 to 20 minutes, even better from 3 to 15 minutes, of said composition B2.

[0048] According to a variant, this step (iii) can be followed, after the possible exposure time, by a step of rinsing the keratin fibers, for example with water.

[0049] According to another variant, this step (iii) may be followed, after the possible exposure time, by a step of applying a hair conditioning composition comprising one or more conditioning agents, followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0050] A preferred embodiment of said conditioning composition is described in more detail below.

[0051] Preferably, step (iii) is followed by a conditioning step and then a rinsing step.

[0052] The method according to the invention may finally comprise a step of drying the keratin fibers, for example in the open air or using a hair dryer.

[0053] Preferably, step (ii) and step (iii) are spaced apart by a maximum of 2 hours, in particular a maximum of 90 minutes, or even a maximum of 60 minutes, even better a maximum of 30 minutes, better still a maximum of 15 minutes.

[0054] This means that the time between the start of step (ii) and the start of step (iii) is preferably less than or equal to 2 hours, better still less than or equal to 90 minutes, even better still less than or equal to 60 minutes, even better still at most 30 minutes, even better still at most 15 minutes.

[0055] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0056] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for it.

[0057] A / Bleaching composition applied in step (i)

[0058] The method according to the invention comprises a bleaching step (i), comprising the application to the keratin fibers of a bleaching hair composition.

[0059] The hair bleaching composition may in particular comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

[0060] By "chemical oxidizing agent" is meant an oxidizing agent other than the oxygen in the air.

[0061] Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and their precursors, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Better still, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts and their mixtures.

[0063] Even better, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perborates, percarbonates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals or ammonium and mixtures thereof.

[0064] A particularly preferred chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

[0065] Examples of peroxygenated salts include sodium, potassium and ammonium persulfates and mixtures thereof.

[0066] The bleaching hair composition may preferably comprise one or more peroxygenated salts, preferably one or more persulfates, better still one or more persulfates chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Even more preferably, the bleaching composition may comprise one or more peroxygenated salts, preferably one or more persulfates, better still one or several persulfates selected from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof, and hydrogen peroxide.

[0068] The bleaching composition may comprise a total content of chemical oxidizing agents ranging from 0.5 to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.6 to 40% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the bleaching composition.

[0069] The bleaching composition may optionally further comprise one or more alkaline agents. Preferably, the bleaching composition comprises one or more alkaline, organic or mineral agents.

[0070] The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium or potassium silicates or metasilicates or mixtures thereof.

[0071] The organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty, alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

[0072] The organic alkaline agent(s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (III): ZN-W-NZ in which: - W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkyl group and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NRU; - Rx, R', Rz R1 and Ru, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from (Ci-C6)alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl

[0073] Examples of amines of formula (III) that may be mentioned are 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.

[0074] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1 to C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0075] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, C1 to C4.

[0076] Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.

[0077] More particularly, the amino acids which can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.

[0078] As amino acids which can be used in the bleaching composition, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

[0079] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a cycle or in a ureido function.

[0080] Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (IV), as well as their salts: R-CH2-CH(NH2)-C(O)-OH in which R represents a group selected from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH2)2N(H)-C(O)-NH2; and -(CH2)2 -N(H)-C(NH)-NH2.

[0081] Among the compounds of formula (IV), mention may be made of histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline.

[0082] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.

[0083] The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of camosine, anserine and balenine.

[0084] The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. In addition to arginine already mentioned as an amino acid, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-Diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-l-sulfonic acid.

[0085] As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid.

[0086] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used.

[0087] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from ammonia, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates and mixtures thereof. Better still, the alkaline agent present in the bleaching composition is chosen from alkali metal silicates or metasilicates, in particular from sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The total content of alkaline agents included in the bleaching composition may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the bleaching composition.

[0089] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching composition may be derived from the mixture of:

[0090] a) a first composition comprising one or more peroxygenated salts and one or more alkaline agents, preferably chosen from silicates,

[0091] b) a second composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s) other than the peroxygenated salts.

[0092] Preferably, the peroxygenated salts are chosen from persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; percarbonates of alkali metals, alkali-earth metals or ammonium; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Preferably, the first composition comprises at least one persulfate.

[0094] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, within the meaning of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxo-disulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions. Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from peroxodisulfates.

[0095] Preferably, the first composition comprises at least one peroxygenated salt chosen from persulfates; preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) present in the first composition ranges from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 65% by weight, better still from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0097] By "silicate" is meant a salt of a silicic acid.

[0098] The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble. By "water-soluble silicate" is meant a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.

[0099] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminum silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.

[0101] The silicate(s) may be chosen from metasilicates, preferably from sodium metasilicates, potassium metasilicates, calcium metasilicates, aluminum metasilicates, trimethylammonium metasilicates and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from sodium silicates. Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate and / or Sodium Metasilicate.

[0102] The silicate(s) are present in the first composition preferably in a total content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, better still from 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0103] The first composition may comprise one or more surfactants, in particular chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof; preferably the first composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0104] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO.

[0105] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the first composition A, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acyl-glutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N- alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

[0106] Among the anionic surfactants, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts, in particular C8-C24, preferably C12-C20, different from the (poly)carboxylic acids previously described.

[0107] These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

[0108] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0109] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0110] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

[0111] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0112] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0113] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.

[0114] In particular, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids may be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 EO) sold for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0115] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acyl glutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0116] When the first composition comprises one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactants preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0117] When the first composition comprises one or more anionic surfactant(s), the total content of anionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] The first composition may further comprise one or more fatty substances.

[0119] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1,013.105 Pa), having a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. Fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0120] The fatty substances are also non-(poly)oxyalkylenated and non-(poly)glycerolated. In other words, the fatty substances do not contain in their structure an ethylene (poly)oxide or (poly)glycerol or (poly)propylene glycol unit.

[0121] The fatty substance(s) may be chosen from solid fatty substances and / or liquid fatty substances (also called “oil”), and mixtures thereof.

[0122] By "oil" is meant a "fatty substance" which is liquid, that is to say which is capable of flowing under the action of its own weight at room temperature (25°C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1,013.105 Pa). Preferably the viscosity at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of ls-1 of the oil is between 10-3 Pa.s and 2 Pa.s. It can be measured with a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with cone-plane geometry or an equivalent device.

[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty body" means a fatty body that is not liquid at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1,013.105 Pa), in particular a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of ls-1 under the conditions mentioned above.

[0124] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid fatty substances.

[0125] Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from, alone or in a mixture:

[0126] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetanol, octyl dodecanol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0127] - C6-C16 hydrocarbons;

[0128] - hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms;

[0129] - silicones.

[0130] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0131] Preferably, the first composition B1 comprises one or more fatty substances, preferentially chosen from liquid fatty substances, better still from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0132] Advantageously, the total content of fatty substances, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition B1.

[0133] Advantageously, the total content of liquid fatty substances, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0134] The first composition may optionally comprise one or more alkaline agents different from the silicates previously described. Mention may in particular be made of carbonates, hydrogen carbonates of alkali, alkaline earth, or ammonium metals.

[0135] Preferably, the first composition is anhydrous. Anhydrous composition means a composition which does not comprise, or comprises little water, in particular less than 0.5% water, better still less than 0.1% water, even better still less than 0.05%, or even less than 0.01% water, relative to the total weight of the first composition. In particular, the first composition does not comprise any water added during its preparation, any water present being able to be provided by the raw materials used during its preparation.

[0136] Preferably, the first composition is a powdery composition.

[0137] According to the present invention, the second composition of the bleaching composition comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents other than peroxygenated salts.

[0138] Preferably, the second composition comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygen salts may be chosen from urea peroxide, polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, oxidases and mixtures thereof.

[0140] As an example of polymer complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, mention may be made of polyvinylpyrrolidone / H2O2, in particular in powder form, and the other polymer complexes described in patents US 5,008,093, US 3,376,110 and US 5,183,901.

[0141] Oxidases can produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate, such as, for example, glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase.

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment, the second composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as a chemical oxidizing agent.

[0143] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) other than the peroxygenated salts are present in the second composition preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0144] The second composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it may comprise at least 10% by weight of water, preferably at least 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously at least 50% by weight of water. Preferably, the second composition comprises water in a content ranging from 10 to 95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, better still from 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0145] The second composition preferably comprises one or more fatty substances as defined above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0146] Preferably, the second composition may also comprise surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and their mixtures, these compounds being as defined previously.

[0147] The second composition may also comprise one or more acidifying agents, among which mineral acids and organic acids may be mentioned, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0148] The pH of the second composition, when it is aqueous, is preferably less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferentially between 1.5 and 4.5. This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by the use of one or more acidifying agents, which can be chosen in particular from those described above.

[0149] The second composition may optionally comprise one or more additives, among which may be mentioned anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers, ca tionic agents or their mixtures, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, anti-oxidant agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0150] The method according to the invention can therefore comprise, before the step of applying (i) a bleaching hair composition A, a step of mixing a first composition as described previously with a second composition as described previously, so as to obtain said composition A.

[0151] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the bleaching composition A likely to be obtained from the mixture, to the hair.

[0152] Preferably, the first composition and the second composition are mixed in a compo 1 / compo 2 weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably from 0.3 to 1.5, better still from 0.5 to 1. B / Composition B1 applied in step (ii)

[0153] The method according to the invention therefore comprises a step (ii) of application to the keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition B1 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated carboxylic (poly)acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. Amino acid compounds

[0154] By amino acid type compound, is meant in the sense of the present invention an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) possibly being intra-cyclic, optionally in salt form; said amine function(s) being primary or secondary amine functions.

[0155] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (therefore not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. Said compounds are also called amino carboxylic acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0156] Preferably, composition B1 according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0157] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I):

[0158] COOH H — C — N(H)W R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself optionally substituted by one or more OH.

[0159] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 members, this cycle not being substituted.

[0160] Preferably, p=2.

[0161] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0162] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0163] The amino acid compounds may also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).

[0164] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium salts and zinc salts.

[0165] The amino acid compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0166] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0167] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.

[0168] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and their mixtures.

[0169] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.

[0170] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0171] Preferably, the amino acid compound is glycine.

[0172] The total content of amino acid type compound(s) present in composition B1 according to the invention is preferably at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0173] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of amino carboxylic acid type in composition B1 according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and their mixtures, in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) chosen from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] Even better, the glycine content in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0177] Composition B1 used according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated carboxylic (poly)acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0178] Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form). They may comprise several, in particular at least 2 COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still 2 or 3 COOH groups. (in acid or salified form); we then speak of polyacid. They may only contain one COOH group, in which case we speak of monoacid.

[0179] By (poly)acid, we mean monoacids and polyacids.

[0180] They also comprise at least one OH group, but may comprise several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0181] Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0182] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0183] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium salts and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0184] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals; very particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid as well as their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium citrate.

[0185] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in composition B1 according to the invention is preferably at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0186] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in composition B1 according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, in composition B1 according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in composition B1 according to the invention ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polysaccharides

[0189] Composition B1 may advantageously comprise one or more polysaccharides, notably chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0190] The non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0191] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, temperature can be cited; and as a chemical treatment, esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation reactions can be cited, insofar as these treatments make it possible to produce polymers which are non-ionic.

[0192] As galactomannans which may be used, mention may be made of non-ionic guar gums which may be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0193] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0194] The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0195] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0196] The starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.

[0197] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

[0198] Non-ionic polysaccharides can also be cellulosic polymers not comprising a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0199] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; the cellulosic polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or non-ionic cellulose derivatives.

[0200] Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0201] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0202] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or celluloses, substituted or not, and cellulose ethers such as (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses.

[0203] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR).

[0204] Preferably, composition B1 comprises one or more non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0205] When present, composition B1 according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.

[0206] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) chosen from celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, and their mixtures, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) chosen from galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, and their mixtures, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] The cationic polysaccharides may in particular be chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0210] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0211] We can notably cite the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL.

[0212] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may in particular be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, the quaternizing agent possibly being in particular diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and in particular hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium

[0213] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0214] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may in particular be made of the polymer with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0215] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US3589578 and US4031307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, in particular those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified by a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0216] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are connected by cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made in particular of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0217] In particular, mention may be made of the products with the INCI name “HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE” and “GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0218] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product with the INCI name “CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”.

[0219] Preferably, composition B1 comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides.

[0220] When they are present, the composition B1 according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galacto-mannans, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) chosen from cationic galactomannans, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0223] Preferably, composition B1 comprises one or more non-ionic polysaccharides and one or more cationic polysaccharides.

[0224] In a preferred embodiment, composition B1 comprises the polysaccharide(s) in a total amount of at least (greater than or equal to) 0.6% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.6 to 5% by weight, better still ranging from 0.7 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] Better still, composition B1 comprises the polysaccharide(s) chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of at least 0.6% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.6 to 5% by weight, better still ranging from 0.7 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicone polymer

[0226] Composition B1 according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, in particular of the following formulas (A1) or (A2): (Al) GH I î 1 r L 1 R1 NC» ™ GC“™ C Si •■■•••• QH KH? H 5- H.. J OH (A2) in which:

[0227] - n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more pre preferably between 1 and 20, better between 1 and 10, even better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3,

[0228] - Ri is a polypeptide chain derived from an amino acid such as cysteine.

[0229] Preferably, the silicone polymer(s) derived from amino acid meet the formula (Al) in which RI is a residue of hydrolyzed vegetable protein.

[0230] Mention may in particular be made of compounds having the INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol or Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl silanetriol marketed under the name Crodasone® W, Crodasone® W PF, Keravis® PE or Crodasone® Cystine by the company CRODA.

[0231] Preferably, the silicone polymer(s) derived from amino acid may be present in composition B1 according to the invention at a content which may range from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Better still, the silicone polymer(s) derived from amino acid of formula (A1) in which RI is a hydrolyzed vegetable protein residue, may be present in composition B1 according to the invention at a content which may range from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0233] Composition B1 according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more polyols.

[0234] By "polyol" is meant a polyhydric alcohol, that is to say a hydrocarbon chain comprising two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH). The polyol can have an aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic molecular structure, linear or branched, it can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0235] Preferably, said polyol(s) are linear and saturated; they may comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups (-OH), in particular from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3, preferentially 2 hydroxyl groups (-OH).

[0236] They can comprise from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0237] They do not include oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.

[0238] They are advantageously liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

[0239] Preferably, the polyols according to the invention comprise 2 or 3 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and are linear and saturated.

[0240] Preferably, they can be chosen from propylene glycol (propane 1,2-diol), propane 1,3-diol, butylene glycol (butane 1,3-diol), butane 2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane 1,2-diol), glycerol and mixtures thereof. Very preferably, the polyols are chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0241] Composition B1 according to the invention preferably comprises said polyol(s) in a total amount ranging from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, or even from 12 to 28% by weight, preferentially from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] Composition B1 according to the invention preferably comprises said polyol(s) chosen from polyols comprising 2 or 3 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, linear and saturated, in a total amount ranging from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, or even from 12 to 28% by weight, preferentially from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0243] Composition B1 used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0244] Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone, that is to say they do not contain Si-O groups.

[0245] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and their mixtures.

[0246] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0247] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): rn + (ii) in which:

[0248] X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0249] the groups R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 1 to R 4 designating a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0250] The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from CrC3o alkyl, CrC3o alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), CrC3o alkylamide, alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C12-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl (C1-C30).

[0251] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts are preferred, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristylacetate)ammonium salts.

[0252]

[0253]

[0254]

[0255]

[0256]

[0257]

[0258] such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. Particularly preferred are the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds. - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): " R “U (III) r zG, / CHSCH—N(R^—CO— Nz 'NC s X \ ' s C—C ' H2 ] in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO. - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV): in which R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3, with R9a, RiOa, Rna, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is a union selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0259] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0260] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): (C,H„O),—R„ (V) O [ X 5¾ in which:

[0261] Rb is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0262] Ri6 is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; the groups R20 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom,

[0263] Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; the groups R22 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups; the hydrogen atom;

[0264] Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0265] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0266] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0267] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0268] X is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

[0269] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R[6 designates R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 designates R22.

[0270] The alkyl groups R[5 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R[5 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or di-hydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0271] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0272] When R[6 is a hydrocarbon group R20, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0273] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon group R22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0274] Advantageously, Rn, R19 and R2[, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated or unsaturated.

[0275] Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

[0276] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0277] Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0278] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0279] It is possible to use more particularly in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which Ri5 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is selected from the group R19-C(O)-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is selected from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0280] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0281] Examples that may be mentioned are compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0282] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on Cio-C3o fatty acids or on mixtures of Cio-C3o fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0283] Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by REWO-WITCO.

[0284] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0285] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

[0286] Behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0287] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0288] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium salts.

[0289] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C3o.

[0290] Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0291] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain possibly being carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0292] Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0293] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0294] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0295] Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical linear or branched; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0296] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallami-dopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0297] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0298] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better still from those of formula (II) above.

[0299] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0300] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmi-toylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0301] Preferably, composition B1 comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

[0302] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in composition B1 preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic surfactants

[0303] Composition B1 may advantageously comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0304] Said non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from: - alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular alcohols comprising at least one C8 to C40 alkyl chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains; - condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (or oxyethylenated sorbitan ester) preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, - sucrose fatty acid esters, - polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylenated, having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, - N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, - amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides. - non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type.

[0305] Non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type can be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0306] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are of the formula described above in which: - RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0307] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl-1,4-(poly)glucosides, and in particular decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0308] The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters that can be used in the context of the invention include in particular the oxyethylenated derivatives of mono and polyesters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of sorbitan, having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units. Preferably, the oxyethylenated derivatives of mono and polyesters of C12-C24 fatty acids and of sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, are used.

[0309] Such compounds are also known as polysorbates. They are marketed, among others, under the name TWEEN by the company UNIQEMA.

[0310] Mention may in particular be made of 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, for example sold under the name TWEEN 21, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 20, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 40, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monostearate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 60, 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monostearate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 61, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan tristearate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 65, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monooleate e.g. sold under the name TWEEN 80, 5 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monooleate e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 81, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan trioleate e.g. com- marketed under the name TWEEN 85.

[0311] Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, in particular C12-C24.

[0312] Preferred sorbitan esters are oxyethylenated derivatives of C12-C24 fatty acid monoesters and sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 4 EO oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate, 20 EO oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate, 20 EO oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0313] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C[8 alkyl)(poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from saturated C[2-C24 fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.

[0314] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in composition B1 in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5 to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 1 to 5% by weight, and even better still from 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicones

[0315] Composition B1 according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more silicones, different from the silicone polymers derived from amino acids previously described, and which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0316] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones.

[0317] The non-amino silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in composition A according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0318] Silicones are notably described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

[0319] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from

[0320] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

[0321] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). may cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2” by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

[0322] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type of structure chemical: -h r3~D' CH. I ' with D: —Si-O— | with D': 1 — S; — O — 1 ch3 c8h,7

[0323] We can cite the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0324] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0325] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0326] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0327] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0328] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0329] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0330] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising even generally C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

[0331] - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

[0332] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0333] - hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hy- function droxyalkyl;

[0334] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent No. 4,957,732.

[0335] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0336] The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, we can cite the following commercial products:

[0337] - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils commer marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0338] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0339] - DOW CORNING company 200 series oils such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0340] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0341] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of series 48 from the company RHODIA.

[0342] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0343] Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are: mixtures such as:

[0344] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.

[0345] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0346] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names:

[0347] - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;

[0348] - oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0349] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0350] - BAYER PK series silicones such as the PK20 product;

[0351] - silicones of the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products

[0352] - certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0353] The non-amino silicones more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone), in particular liquid and non-volatile.

[0354] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0355] Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0356] The amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).

[0357] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0358] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0359] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0360] B) amino silicones corresponding to formula (II):

[0361] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II)

[0362] in which:

[0363] - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C1-C8 alkyl, for example methyl or C1-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, - a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0364] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0365] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0366] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+ H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-QN +(R”)3 A, in which R”, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a CrC2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0367] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be chosen from:

[0368] (i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III): -J (m)

[0369] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0370] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0371] in which:

[0372] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0373] - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C 1 -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0374] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0375] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0376] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0377] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0378]

[0379]

[0380]

[0381]

[0382]

[0383]

[0384]

[0385] in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol. Commercial products containing silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®. When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, microemulsions of amino silicone of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

[0386] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

[0387] in which:

[0388] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in par particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0389] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0390] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone with this formula is, for example, XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.

[0391] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0392] in which:

[0393] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in par particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0394] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0395] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone with this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

[0396] C) amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0397] in which:

[0398] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl;

[0399] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0400] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an acid salt organic, especially acetate;

[0401] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0402] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0403] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX)

[0404] in which:

[0405] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0406] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0407] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hy radical monovalent carbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0408] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, especially acetate; and

[0409] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, mention may be made of the silicone with the INCI name: QUATERNIUM 80.

[0410] Silicones falling into this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0411] E) amino silicones of formula (X): (X)

[0412] in which:

[0413] - Ri, R2, Ri and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0414] - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0415] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0416] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0417] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0418] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

[0419] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0420] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else [0421 ] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0422] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0423] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, plus especially between 5 and 30;

[0424] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0425] - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0426] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R denote a CH 2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0427] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent C2-C hydrocarbon radical 12, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0428] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%.

[0429] The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0430] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0431] G) amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII): W r (0¾ NH, (XI)

[0432] in which:

[0433] - R, R' and R”, which are identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0434] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0435] - m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000.

[0436] in which:

[0437] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0438] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0439] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0440] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. In particular, the following divalent groups may be mentioned: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0441] Preferably, R 1 and R 2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R 1 and R 2, identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0442] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), we have:

[0443] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0444] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0445] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0446] - R1 and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1 and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0447] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0448] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): (XV) MH.,

[0449] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV) include the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.

[0450] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0451] As an example of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0452] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.

[0453] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

[0454] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: \-- (xvm) ] HCL ___ / \| I / \ I HO— / '—OH |

[0455] in which:

[0456] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

[0457] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5;

[0458] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals can optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl OH groups;

[0459] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0460] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, especially from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0461] Preferably, the R'”, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferably the R's, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14 and C15, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

[0462] Preferably, the R's are identical.

[0463] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-.

[0464] Preferably, R'' is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0465] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0466] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0467] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0468] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0469] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

[0470] - R” is a linear divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0471] Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0472] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0473] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0474] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0475] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

[0476] - R' ' is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0477] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may in particular be made of the silicone marketed under the name “DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent” by DOW.

[0478] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the amino silicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (IX), (XI) and / or (XII) defined above.

[0479] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones, better liquid and non-volatile, in particular chosen from the amino silicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI), (IX) and / or (XII) defined above, even better chosen from the amino silicones of formula (I), (III) (IX) and / or (XI) as defined above.

[0480] Preferably, the composition B1 according to the invention comprises, as silicone, only one or more amino silicones; in other words, according to this preference, the composition does not comprise (0%) non-amino silicone.

[0481] Advantageously, the composition B1 according to the present invention may comprise, when they are present, the silicone(s), in particular the amino silicone(s), in a total content preferably ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 4% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.2 to 3% by weight, even better 0.25 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional compounds

[0482] Composition B1 used according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 45 to 95% by weight, for example from 50 to 90% by weight, in particular from 50 to 80% by weight, better still from 55 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C / Composition B2 applied in step (iii)

[0483] The method according to the invention therefore comprises a step (iii) of application to the keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition B2 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated carboxylic (poly)acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0484] All of the characteristics and preferences defined previously for composition B1 also apply to composition B2.

[0485] Preferably, composition B2 comprises one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) defined above and / or their salts.

[0486] The total content of amino acid type compound(s) present in composition B2 according to the invention is preferably at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0487] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of amino carboxylic acid type in composition B2 according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0488] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and their mixtures, in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0489] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) chosen from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0490] Even better, the glycine content in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0491] Composition B2 used according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated carboxylic (poly)acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0492] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in composition B2 is preferably at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0493] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in composition B2 according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0494] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0495] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in composition B2 according to the invention ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0496] Composition B2 may advantageously comprise one or more polysaccharides, in particular chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, composition B2 comprises one or more non-ionic polysaccharides and one or more cationic polysaccharides.

[0497] In a preferred embodiment, composition B2 comprises the polysaccharide(s) in a total amount strictly less than 0.6% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0498] Better still, composition B2 comprises the polysaccharide(s) chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, in a total amount strictly less than 0.6% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0499] Composition B2 according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, in particular of formulas (A1) or (A2) as described above.

[0500] Preferably, the silicone polymer(s) derived from amino acid may be present in composition B2 according to the invention at a content which may range from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0501] Better still, the silicone polymer(s) derived from amino acid of formula (A1) in which RI is a residue of hydrolyzed vegetable protein, may be present in composition B2 according to the invention at a content which may range from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0502] Composition B2 according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more polyols.

[0503] Composition B2 according to the invention preferably comprises said polyol(s) in a total amount ranging from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, or even from 12 to 28% by weight, preferentially from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0504] Composition B2 according to the invention preferably comprises said polyol(s) chosen from polyols comprising 2 or 3 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, linear and saturated, in a total amount ranging from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 30% by weight, or even from 12 to 28% by weight, preferentially from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0505] Composition B2 used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0506] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in composition B2 preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0507] Composition B2 may advantageously comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0508] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in composition B2 in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5 to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 1 to 5% by weight, and even better still from 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0509] Composition B2 according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more silicones, different from silicone polymers derived from amino acids, and which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0510] Advantageously, the composition B2 according to the present invention may comprise, when they are present, the silicone(s), in particular the amino silicone(s), in a total content preferably ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.25 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0511] Composition B2 advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 45 to 95% by weight, for example from 50 to 90% by weight, in particular from 50 to 80% by weight, better still from 55 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. D / Washing composition

[0512] The method according to the invention may optionally comprise a step of washing the keratin fibres, for example using a shampoo, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a hair washing composition, optionally but advantageously followed by rinsing, for example with water.

[0513] The hair washing composition preferably comprises one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.

[0514] The composition may thus comprise one or more anionic surfactants, or one or more amphoteric surfactants, or one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. These surfactants are non-silicone.

[0515] The anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can of course be used.

[0516] It is understood in this description that:

[0517] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one car- carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0518] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; and

[0519] - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0520] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0521] They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0522] Also useful are C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

[0523] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO,

[0524] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0525] Ri-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (1)

[0526] in which:

[0527] - Rr represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2 CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical in C9-C21; preferably R| is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;

[0528] - n' is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, of preference from 2 to 10,

[0529] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. nolamin.

[0530] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) can also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different R groups.

[0531] The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0532] - R, denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical;

[0533] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0534] - n' varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0535] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Rr denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or oc-tylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0536] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0537] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0538] - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmi- toylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0539] - acyllactylates, particularly C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe- noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0540] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;

[0541] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercar- carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0542] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0543] in particular in acid form or in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0544] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3). They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0545] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0546] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0547] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in a mixture:

[0548] - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, especially C12-C20;

[0549] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20,

[0550] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, especially lauryl- sulfosuccinates.

[0551] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0552] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0553] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0554] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0555] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether- sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0556] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0557] these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0558] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0559] - alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

[0560] - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preferably from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0561] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0562] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0563] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

[0564] Preferably, the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.

[0565] Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

[0566] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, especially C12-C20,

[0567] - C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfates; comprising preferably from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0568] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0569] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20,

[0570] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0571] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0572] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20;

[0573] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0574] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

[0575] - C6-C24 acylglutamates, especially C12-C20;

[0576] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;

[0577] - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, especially C12-C20;

[0578] in particular in acid form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0579] Preferably, the washing composition is free (0%) of sulfated surfactants (sulfate free); in this case, it advantageously comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

[0580] - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, especially C12-C20;

[0581] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0582] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0583] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20;

[0584] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20,

[0585] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0586] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0587] in particular in acid form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0588] When present, the anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the washing composition in a total amount ranging from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 28% by weight, better still from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0589] Amphoteric surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.

[0590] The amphoteric surfactant(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are non-silicone.

[0591] Mention may be made in particular, alone or in mixture, of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C2o)amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.

[0592] They may also be chosen from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a car- boxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.

[0593] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (A), (B) and (C):

[0594] (A) Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+,

[0595] in which:

[0596] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0597] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0598] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0599] - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and

[0600] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0601] (B) Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B')

[0602] in which:

[0603] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0604] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0605] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0606] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0607] - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as than sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

[0608] - Ra- represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra -COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0609] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0610] As an example, we can cite the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0611] (C) Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re)

[0612] in which:

[0613] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z” ;

[0614] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hy- radical C1-C4 droxyalkyl;

[0615] - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

[0616] - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0617] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0618] Among the amphoteric surfactants, use is preferably made of alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as coca-midopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (C) such as the salts, in particular sodium salts, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0619] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0620] When they are present, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount which may range from 0.05 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0621] Preferably, the washing composition comprises a total content of anionic and amphoteric surfactant(s) (i.e. the sum of the contents of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants) ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, better still from 10 to 35% by weight, even better still from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0622] The washing composition may advantageously comprise one or more silicones, in particular amino silicones; one or more cationic polymers; one or more polyols; one or more non-ionic surfactants, as well as a mixture of these different ingredients.

[0623] Hereinafter, all of the characteristics and preferences defined previously for composition B1 also apply to the washing composition.

[0624] Said washing composition may also comprise one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) defined above and / or their salts.

[0625] The total content of amino acid type compound(s) present in the washing composition according to the invention may range from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0626] The washing composition may also comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0627] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in the washing composition may range from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0628] The washing composition may advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, in particular of formulas (A1) or (A2) as described above.

[0629] Preferably, the silicone polymer(s) derived from amino acid may be present in the washing composition at a content which may range from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0630] The washing composition may advantageously comprise water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 45 to 95% by weight, for example from 50 to 90% by weight, in particular from 50 to 80% by weight, better still from 55 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. E / Packaging composition

[0631] The method according to the invention may optionally comprise a step of conditioning the keratin fibers, for example using a mask or a hair conditioner, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a hair conditioning composition, optionally but advantageously followed by rinsing, for example with water.

[0632] Unless otherwise indicated, all of the characteristics and preferences defined previously for composition B1 also apply to the packaging composition, in particular with regard to the ingredients mentioned below.

[0633] The hair conditioning composition preferably comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances, in particular chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the conditioning composition comprises at least one or more solid fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols.

[0634] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0635] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0636] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated monoalcohols, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Better still, the solid fatty alcohols that can be used are chosen from linear and saturated monoalcohols, containing from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0637] Mention may in particular be made of myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol), as well as mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.

[0638] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

[0639] Preferably, the total quantity of fatty substances, in particular solid fatty substances, can range from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 18% by weight, even better still from 3 to 15% by weight, preferentially from 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0640] The hair conditioning composition preferably comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

[0641] When present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the conditioning composition preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 7% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0642] The hair conditioning composition preferably comprises one or more silicones.

[0643] Advantageously, the conditioning composition may comprise, when present, the silicone(s), in particular the amino silicone(s), in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0644] Said conditioning composition may also comprise one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) defined above and / or their salts.

[0645] The total content of amino acid type compound(s) present in the conditioning composition may range from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0646] The conditioning composition may also comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0647] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in the conditioning composition may range from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0648] The conditioning composition may advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, in particular of formulas (A1) or (A2) as described above.

[0649] Preferably, the silicone polymer(s) derived from amino acid may be present in the conditioning composition at a content which may range from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0650] The conditioning composition may advantageously comprise water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 55 to 98% by weight, for example from 60 to 95% by weight, in particular from 65 to 92% by weight, better still from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. F / Coloring composition

[0651] The method according to the invention may optionally comprise a coloring step comprising the application to the keratin fibers of a coloring hair composition.

[0652] Said coloring composition may comprise one or more coloring agents chosen in particular from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0653] By "oxidation dye" is meant an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are compounds with little or no color which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species.

[0654] By "direct dye" is meant a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of extract(s), different from oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds which will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic.

[0655] The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally combined with one or more coupling agents (also called couplers).

[0656] The coloring composition may optionally comprise one or more oxidation bases advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.

[0657] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts.

[0658] The coloring composition may optionally comprise one or more coupling agents advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.

[0659] Among these coupling agents, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, in particular addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

[0660] The coloring composition may optionally comprise one or more direct dyes. Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures. The direct dyes are preferably chosen from cationic direct dyes, anionic direct dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0661] The coloring composition may comprise at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0662] By "chemical oxidizing agent" is meant an oxidizing agent other than oxygen in the air.

[0663] Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and their precursors, and mixtures thereof.

[0664] Better still, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts and their mixtures.

[0665] Even better, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perborates, percarbonates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals or ammonium and mixtures thereof.

[0666] A particularly preferred chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

[0667] Examples of peroxygenated salts include sodium, potassium, ammonium persulfates and mixtures thereof.

[0668] The coloring composition may comprise a total content of chemical oxidizing agents ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight. weight, more preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

[0669] The coloring composition may optionally further comprise one or more alkaline agents. Preferably, the coloring composition comprises one or more alkaline, organic or mineral agents.

[0670] The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium or potassium silicates or metasilicates or mixtures thereof.

[0671] The organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty, alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

[0672] The organic alkaline agent(s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (III): NW-Nf Rv ' R' in which: - W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkyl group and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NRU; - Rx, R', Rz R1 and Ru, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from (Ci-C6)alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl

[0673] Examples of amines of formula (III) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.

[0674] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1 to C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0675] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, C1 to C4.

[0676] Among such compounds, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), dietha- nolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.

[0677] More particularly, the amino acids which can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.

[0678] As amino acids which can be used in the coloring composition, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

[0679] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a cycle or in a ureido function.

[0680] Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (IV), as well as their salts: R-CH2-CH(NH2)-C(O>OH (IV) in which R represents a group selected from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH2)2N(H)-C(O)-NH2; and -(CH2)2 -N(H)-C(NH)-NH2.

[0681] Among the compounds of formula (IV), mention may be made of histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline.

[0682] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole.

[0683] The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of camosine, anserine and balenine.

[0684] The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. In addition to arginine already mentioned as an amino acid, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-l-sulfonic acid.

[0685] As hybrid compounds, we can mention the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid.

[0686] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used.

[0687] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from ammonia, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates and mixtures thereof. Better still, the alkaline agent present in the coloring composition is monoethanolamine. Better still, the alkaline agent present in the bleaching composition is chosen from sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0688] The total content of alkaline agents included in the coloring composition may range from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

[0689] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. All quantities are indicated, unless otherwise indicated, as a percentage by mass of active material (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0690] The following compositions B1 and B2 are prepared according to the invention (% MA):

[0691] [Tables 1] B1 B2 Glycine 5 5 Citric acid 3 3 Cationic guar 0.4 0.2 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.4 0.2 Hydrolyzed vegetable protein PG-propyl silanetriol 0.5 0.5 Amino silicone 0.4 0.4 Glycerin 15 15 Propylene glycol 5.4 5.4 Non-ionic surfactants 1.6 1.6 Cetrimonium chloride 1 1 Preservatives qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0692] The shampoo composition and the mask composition are also prepared below. After :

[0693] [Tables2] Shampoo Mask Non-sulfated anionic surfactants 21.4 - Non-ionic surfactants 2.4 - Amphoteric surfactants 1.6 - Glycol distearate 3.5 - Glycerin 2 - Propylene glycol 0.3 - Carbomer 0.4 - Silicones 1.2 2.2 Cationic polymers 0.8 - NaCl 0.3 - Cetearyl alcohol - 6 Cationic surfactant - 3.1 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate - 0.7 Liquid fat - 0.85 Butylene glycol - 0.85 Solid fatty ester - 1 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0694] Hair compositions are thus obtained which can be used in the process according to the invention, in particular in the following manner:

[0695] - application of a bleaching composition comprising persulfates, laying then rinse,

[0696] - application of composition Bl, leave for 5 minutes, followed by a step of washing with shampoo, and rinsing, then

[0697] - application of composition B2, leave for 10 minutes, followed

[0698] - a conditioning step with application of the mask, and finally rinsing.

[0699] The steps of applying Bl and B2 are separated by approximately 10-15 minutes. Example 2

[0700] The strengthening of keratin fibers treated using the methods according to the invention is evaluated using the DSC technique.

[0701] The measurements are carried out on strands previously bleached manually (5.7 g strands) then treated according to the following protocol:

[0702] Reference: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2g of composition B1 described in example 1 is applied per strand of hair, and in layering 2g of conditioning composition below (mask) is applied per strand of hair, the mask is left on for 5 minutes then rinsed.

[0703] Invention: after rinsing the bleaching, 2g of composition B1 described in example 1 are applied per lock of hair, left to act for 5 minutes then the lock is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, and 2g of composition B2 described in example 1 are applied per lock of hair, and in layering 2g of the conditioning composition below (mask) are applied per lock of hair, the mask is left to act for 5 minutes then rinsed.

[0704] [Tables3] Composition C (mask) Wt % Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate 8 Amodimethicone 2 Behentrimonium Chloride 1.5 Butylene Glycol 1 Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate 2 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER 0.5 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 1 Aminopropyl Dimethicone 1 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.25 Lauryl Laurate 1 Preservative 0.5 Water qsp 100

[0705] Measurement method: The differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) technique is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying protein strengthening in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, https: / / doi.Org / 10.1016 / j.tca.2018.01.014 & F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993). The principle of the test is to measure the protein denaturation temperature. It is widely recognized that the higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the integrity of the cortex proteins, which reflects Reducing fiber breakage. The denaturation temperature is directly related to the bond density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the bond density of the proteins between them, the disulfide bridges break and the cortex is damaged. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as a significant change.

[0706] The device used to perform the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference device. This device measures the energy flow during heating of the sample. The temperature at which the energy flow is greatest represents the denaturation temperature.

[0707] The following results are obtained (average of 3 measurements taken per strand):

[0708] [Tables 4] Td (°C) Standard deviation Natural wick (before bleaching treatment) 153.9 0.7 Untreated bleached wick 144.4 0.9 Bleached wick treated according to the reference 153.0 0.7 Bleached wick treated according to the invention 155.0 0.3

Claims

Claims

1. Process for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, in particular a coloring and / or bleaching process, comprising: - a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a bleaching hair composition A, then - a step (ii) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition B1 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated carboxylic (poly)acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, then - a step (iii) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition B2 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated carboxylic (poly)acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts;step (ii) and step (iii) being spaced at most 2 hours apart, in particular at most 90 minutes, or even at most 60 minutes, even better at most 30 minutes, better still at most 15 minutes.;

2. Method according to claim 1, in which: - the cosmetic composition B1 comprises one or more polysaccharides preferably present in a total amount of at least 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, and / or - the cosmetic composition B2 comprises one or more polysaccharides present in a total amount strictly less than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

3. Process for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, in particular a coloring and / or bleaching process, comprising: - a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a bleaching hair composition A, then - a step (ii) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition B1 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds; one or more hydroxylated carboxylic (poly)acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts; and one or more polysaccharides present in a total amount of at least 0.6% by weight, then - a step (iii) of applying to said keratin fibers a com- cosmetic position B2 comprising one or more amino acid type compounds; one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts; and one or more polysaccharides present in a total quantity strictly less than 0.6% by weight.

4. Method according to claim 3, in which step (ii) and step (iii) are spaced apart by a maximum of 2 hours, in particular a maximum of 90 minutes, or even a maximum of 60 minutes, even better a maximum of 30 minutes, better still a maximum of 15 minutes.

5. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino acid type compounds present in composition B1 and / or composition B2 are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc: ÇOOH H........C ........N(H)P h in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl;- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C i2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself optionally substituted by one or more OH; preferably in which p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom; even better are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine,; serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures; preferably chosen from glycine, its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures.

6. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which composition B1 and / or composition B2 comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups; and / or their salts, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or zinc; preferably chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; very particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid as well as their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

7. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the bleaching composition A comprises: - one or more chemical oxidizing agents; in particular chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and their precursors, and mixtures thereof; even better chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts and mixtures thereof; preferentially one or more persulfates; and / or - one or more alkaline, organic or mineral agents; in particular chosen from ammonia, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates and mixtures thereof; better still, from alkali metal silicates or metasilicates, in particular from sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

8. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition B1 applied in step (ii) and / or the composition B2 applied in step (iii) comprises: - one or more non-ionic polysaccharides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; better still from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or celluloses, substituted or not, and ethers of cellulose such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses; even better chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or - one or more cationic polysaccharides chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.

9. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition B1 applied in step (ii) and / or the composition B2 applied in step (iii) comprises one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, in particular of the following formulae (A1) or (A2): (A1) GH | r 'ç f Ü HL HH, H, 1 ~ ÔH OM GH OH OH rH 5 i 1 rii ! i M 1 ! R :—N—C —C—G—G—t—G—Si—Q—4— S-:—r- 0—HO--G--GGN Ri KHH» j < H,H» HH, HW GM (A2) in which: - n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20, better between 1 and 10, even better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, - Ri is a polypeptide chain derived from an amino acid such as cysteine.

10. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition B1 applied in step (ii) and / or the composition B2 applied in step (iii) comprises one or more polyols and / or one or more cationic surfactants, and / or one or more non-ionic surfactants, and / or one or more silicones, in particular amino silicones.

11. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which step (ii) is followed, after the possible exposure time, and before step (iii), by a step of washing the keratin fibers, for example using a shampoo, which is itself followed by a rinsing step, for example example with water.

12. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which step (ii) is followed, after the possible exposure time, the possible washing, the possible rinsing, by a step of coloring the keratin fibers, using a coloring composition comprising one or more direct dyes; said coloring step itself being able to be followed by a step of washing the keratin fibers, for example using a shampoo, followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

13. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which step (iii) is followed, after the optional exposure time, by a step of applying a hair conditioning composition comprising one or more conditioning agents, followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

14. Method according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a step of drying the keratin fibers, for example in the open air or using a hair dryer.