A personal care composition comprising c14-c24 unsaturated fatty acids and terpenoids

A personal care composition with unsaturated fatty acids and terpenoids enhances 7-DHC generation, addressing the need for improved anti-aging and skin benefits by promoting vitamin D3 synthesis.

WO2026057325A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2026-03-19UNILEVER IP HLDG BV +2
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2025/074206
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-09-13
Filing Date
2025-08-26
Publication Date
2026-03-19

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing personal care compositions do not effectively provide improved anti-aging benefits, barrier function, and immunity boosting to the skin.

Method used

A personal care composition comprising unsaturated fatty acids with carbon chain lengths from 14 to 24 and terpenoids in a specific weight ratio, which enhances 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC) generation, leading to improved vitamin D3 synthesis and associated benefits.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides enhanced anti-aging, immunity boosting, and improved skin barrier function through increased 7-DHC generation upon exposure to UV light.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising an unsaturated fatty acid selected from mono-unsaturated or poly-unsaturated fatty acids having carbon chain length from 14 to 24; and a terpenoid. Particularly, the present invention relates to said personal care composition that provides improved anti-aging benefit. Additionally, the present invention also relates to said personal care composition that improves the barrier function of the skin.
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Description

[0001] A PERSONAL CARE COMPOSITION

[0002] Field of the invention

[0003] The invention relates to a personal care composition. Particularly, the present invention relates to a personal care composition that provides improved benefits e.g. anti-aging, improved barrier function of the skin and immunity boosting.

[0004] Background of the invention

[0005] People tend to take care of their external surfaces e.g. skin, hairs and nails, with a desire to maintain a healthy lifestyle. For such purposes, they tend to rely on personal care compositions that provide benefits e.g. anti-aging, improved barrier function, immunity boosting and moisturization.

[0006] A need therefore exists to provide personal care compositions that provide such benefits e.g. anti-aging, to an improved extent as consumers tend to be desirous of the same.

[0007] The present inventors, whilst working in the field personal care products, have surprisingly found that when an unsaturated fatty acids having carbon chain length from 14 to 24, when combined with a terpenoid, it resulted in improved anti-aging. Further, they found that such improved antiaging was based on improved generation of 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC; also known as provitamin D3) in the skin which is known to lead to improved vitamin D3 synthesis in the skin upon exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light.

[0008] Summary of the invention

[0009] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising: a. from 0.001 to 20 wt% of an unsaturated fatty acid selected from mono-unsaturated or poly-unsaturated fatty acids having carbon chain length from 14 to 24; and b. from 0.001 to 15 wt% of a terpenoid, wherein the weight ratio of the unsaturated fatty acid and the terpenoid is in the range 1 :20 to 20:1.

[0010] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin comprising the steps: a. applying the composition of the first aspect on to the skin; and b. optionally, rinsing the skin with water. In a third aspect, the present invention relates to use of the composition of the first aspect for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin.

[0011] In a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to use of an unsaturated fatty acid selected from mono-unsaturated or poly-unsaturated fatty acids having carbon chain length from 14 to 24, in a personal care composition comprising a terpenoid, for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin.

[0012] Detailed description of the invention

[0013] All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent from the description and examples which follow. Any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be utilized in any other aspect of the invention. The word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “composed of.” In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about”. Numerical ranges expressed in the format " x to y" are understood to include x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "x to y", it is understood that all ranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated. Unless specified otherwise, amounts as used herein are expressed in percentage by weight based on total weight of the composition and may be abbreviated as “wt%”. The use of any and all examples or exemplary language e.g. “such as” provided herein is intended merely to better illuminate the invention and does not in any way limit the scope of the invention otherwise claimed. Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”.

[0014] The composition of the invention is meant to be used for personal care or for cosmetic use. Such personal care composition may be classified as leave-on or rinse-off, and includes any product applied to a human body for improving appearance, cleansing, odor control or general aesthetics. The composition may be applied with an implement or via a face mask, or a pad, or a wipe or a patch. Non-limiting examples of such compositions include leave-on products like skin lotions and creams, antiperspirants, deodorants, depilatories, lipsticks, foundations, mascara, gels, sprays; or rinse-off I wash-off products like shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, toilet bars, face wash, hand wash or body wash products. In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising: a. from 0.001 to 20 wt% of an unsaturated fatty acid selected from mono-unsaturated or poly-unsaturated fatty acids having carbon chain length from 14 to 24 and mixtures thereof; and b. from 0.001 to 15 wt% of a terpenoid, wherein the weight ratio of the unsaturated fatty acid and the terpenoid is in the range 1 :20 to 20:1.

[0015] Unsaturated fatty acids

[0016] The composition comprises an unsaturated fatty acid selected from mono-unsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids having carbon chain length from 14 to 24 and mixtures thereof.

[0017] Examples of mono-unsaturated fatty acid that are suitable for use in the present invention include: monounsaturated fatty acids e.g. myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapineic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, oleic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0018] Examples of poly-unsaturated fatty acid that are suitable for use in the present invention include polyunsaturated fatty acids e.g. linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleosteric acid and conjugated unsaturated fatty acids and mixtures thereof. Conjugated fatty acids e.g. conjugated linoleic acid, are the unsaturated fatty acids that contain unsaturated bonds at alternate carbon like for example, in conjugated linoleic acid which contains such unsaturated bonds at 9thand 11thcarbon atom.

[0019] Thus, preferably, an unsaturated fatty acid is selected from the above provided examples of mono-unsaturated fatty acids, poly-unsaturated fatty acids; and from mixtures thereof. More preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid is selected from myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid is selected from palmitoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, linoleic acid is selected as the unsaturated fatty acid.

[0020] The composition comprises from 0.001 to 20 wt%, preferably from 0.01 to 18 wt%, preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt%, preferably from 0.5 to 12 wt%, preferably from 1 to 10 wt%, preferably from 2 to 8 wt%, preferably from 3 to 7 wt%, preferably from 3 to 5 wt% of an unsaturated fatty acid described above. The composition comprises a terpenoid. Preferably, the terpenoid is selected from an aliphatic terpenoid. By ‘aliphatic terpenoid’, it will be understood that the terpenoids are open chain structures that may be straight or branched chains but do not contain a ring structure. Preferably, the aliphatic terpenoid is selected from squalane, squalene, geraniol, linalool, farnesol and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the aliphatic terpenoid is selected from squalane, squalene, geraniol and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the aliphatic terpenoid is selected from squalane, squalene and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, squalane is selected as the terpenoid.

[0021] The composition comprises from 0.001 to 15 wt%, preferably from 0.005 to 12 wt%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.05 to 8 wt%, preferably from 0.1 to 7 wt%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt%, preferably from 1 to 4 wt%, preferably from 1 to 3 wt% of a terpenoid described above.

[0022] The composition comprises the unsaturated fatty acid as describe above and the terpenoid as described above, in the weight ratio in the range from 1 :20 to 20:1 , preferably from 1 :15 to 15:1 , preferably from 1 : 10 to 10: 1 , preferably from 1 :5 to 5: 1 , preferably from 1 :2 to 2: 1 , preferably 1 :1.

[0023] For example, if an unsaturated fatty acid e.g. linoleic acid, is used in amounts 0.1 wt%; and a terpenoid e.g. squalane, may be used in amounts 1 wt% so that the weight ratio is 1 :10. Likewise, linoleic acid may be used in amounts 1 wt%, and a terpenoid may be in amounts 0.1 wt% such that the weight ratio is 10:1.

[0024] It will be understood that for the ratios described above, if more than one unsaturated fatty acids are selected from those described above, the sum of amount of all these unsaturated fatty acids is to be taken into account when calculating its weight ratio with the one or more terpenoids. Likewise, if more than one terpenoids are used from those described above, the sum of their amounts is to be taken into account whilst calculating the ratio with the one or more unsaturated fatty acids.

[0025] For example, if the composition comprises linoleic acid and palmitoleic acid in addition to squalane and / or squalene, it is the sum of amounts of linoelic acid and palmitoleic acid to be taken into account whilst calculating their weight ratio to amounts of squalene and / or squalene.

[0026] It has been found that when a personal care composition contained an unsaturated fatty acid in combination with a terpenoid, in amounts and ratios as described above, it provided improved anti-aging benefit. Preferably, such improved anti-aging is obtained through improved 7-DHC generation which is corelated to improved vitamin D3 generation. The conversion of 7-DHC to vitamin D3 is a well-known process which takes place upon exposure to the sunlight. Thus, in a way, the composition of the first aspect also provides other benefits that are known to be associated to improved vitamin D3 generation. Such benefits include improved immunity boosting and improved barrier function of human skin.

[0027] In a preferred aspect, the present invention related to a personal care composition comprising: a. from 0.001 to 20 wt% of an unsaturated fatty acid selected from mono-unsaturated or poly-unsaturated fatty acids having carbon chain length from 14 to 24; and b. from 0.001 to 15 wt% of a terpenoid, wherein the weight ratio of the unsaturated fatty acid and the terpenoid is 5:1 .

[0028] Preferably, the composition is a leave-on product. Examples of leave-on products include a cream, a lotion, a gel and a deodorant. ‘Leave-on’ composition preferably means a composition which is not required to be removed from the surface it is applied on to, e.g. skin, after the application of the composition; and such compositions may only get removed when a consumer / user takes a shower or a bath typically after several hours or after about a day.

[0029] If the composition is in the form of a cream, then it preferably further comprises from 3 to 25 wt%, more preferably 4 to 22 wt%, even more preferably from 7 to 20 wt%, further more preferably from 10 to 19 wt% and still more preferably 12 to 18 wt% saturated fatty acids. Such fatty acids when present in the composition along with a soap, provide the so-called vanishing cream effect, i.e. a composition, when applied on to the human skin, vanishes on the skin leaving behind no significant streaks of the composition.

[0030] The saturated fatty acids may be selected from saturated fatty acids having carbon atoms preferably in the range 10 to 22, more preferably 12 to 22, even more preferably 14 to 22, further more preferably 16 to 22, yet more preferably from 18 to 22. Examples of such saturated fatty acids that may be used in the composition include lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, arachidic, behenic, erucic acid and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the saturated fatty acid that may preferably be used is stearic acid or palmitic acid or a mixture thereof. The saturated fatty acid in the present invention is preferably hysteric acid which is substantially (generally about 90 to 95%) a mixture of stearic acid and palmitic acid where amount of palmitic acid may range from 40 to 65% and that of stearic acid may range from 34 to 58%. If the composition is in the form of a cream, then it preferably further comprises from 0.1 to 10 wt%, more preferably 1 to 8 wt%, even more preferably 2 to 7 wt%, further more preferably 2 to 6 wt%, even further more preferably 2 to 5 wt% and most preferably 2 to 4 wt% soap.

[0031] Soap when present in the combination with the saturated fatty acids in the composition, it provides the so-called vanishing effect. Soap of the invention is generally prepared by in-situ neutralization of the saturated fatty acids that may be present in the composition. Thus, it is preferred that the soap has a carbon chain length that corresponds to the chain length of the additional fatty acids in the composition. The soap is formed from the saturated fatty acids through the use of alkali metal hydroxides e.g. sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Of the two, potassium hydroxide is more preferred. Thus, the soap is preferably a potassium soap (potassium salt of a saturated fatty acid).

[0032] Preferably, the leave-on composition of the invention comprises water. Amounts of water may preferably range from 10 to 95 wt%, more preferably from 15 to 85 wt%, even more preferably from 35 to 80 wt%, and further more preferably from 40 to 75 wt%.

[0033] The leave-on composition of the invention may be in the form of an emulsion e.g. a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. In such cases, the composition may include mineral oils, silicone oils, and synthetic oils. Amounts of these materials may range from 0.1 to 50 wt%, and preferably, from 0.1 to 30 wt%, and most preferably, from 1 to 20 wt%, including all ranges subsumed therein.

[0034] Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile varieties. The term “volatile” as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, and preferably, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities of less than 5 centistokes at 25°C while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than 10 centistokes (measured with a Brookfield Viscometer, RV No. 3 spindle at 20 PRM, standardized to mineral oil and at 25°C).

[0035] Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as carrier material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (like dimethicone, including crosspolymers and elastomers) with viscosities of from 5 to 100,000 centistokes at 25°C. An often-preferred silicone source is a cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol solution.

[0036] The leave-on composition of the invention may further comprise emollients. Examples of emollients that may be used in the composition include stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, din-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rape seed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate and mixtures thereof. Such emollients may preferably be present in amounts 0.1 to 30 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 25 wt%, even more preferably from 3 to 20 wt%, further more preferably from 5 to 15 wt% and still more preferably from 7 to 12 wt%.

[0037] Emulsifiers (or surfactants) may be present in leave-on compositions comprising the components of the present invention. Total concentration of the emulsifier, when used, may range from 0.1 to 30 wt%, and preferably, from 2 to 20 wt%, and most preferably, from 1 to 9 wt% by weight of the composition. The emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric components. Particularly preferred nonionic components are those with a C10 to C20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, nono- and di- C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic emulsifiers.

[0038] Preferred anionic emulsifiers include alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C8-C20 acyl isethionates, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, alkylethercarboxylates and combinations thereof.

[0039] Cationic emulsifiers that may be used include, for example, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Useful amphoteric emulsifiers include cocoamidopropyl betaine, C12-C20 trialkyl betaines, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium laurodiamphoacetate or a mixture thereof. Other generally preferred emulsifiers include glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate, stearamide AMP, PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol as well as emulsifying / thickening additives like hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurates copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0040] A leave-on composition of the present invention may be in the form of a lotion or a serum.

[0041] Alternatively, the composition may be in the form of a wash-off composition. Examples of such wash-off composition include a hand-wash composition, a body-wash composition and a shampoo composition.

[0042] By ‘wash-off’, it is preferably meant that the composition applied on to a surface e.g. skin, is removed from the surface with water. In other words, the surface is rinsed-off with water and the composition so applied is removed. Typically, if the composition is formulated in the form of a wash-off composition, then the composition so applied is removed preferably within 5 minutes, more preferably within 3 minutes, even more preferably within 1 minute and further more preferably within 30 seconds e.g. 10 or 15 seconds, of it being applied on a surface.

[0043] If the composition is formulated in the form of a wash-off composition, e.g. a shampoo or wash composition, then the composition preferably comprises a surfactant. In such case, the composition preferably comprises surfactants in an amount from 3 to 80 wt%, preferably 5 to 80 wt% surfactant. Based on the whether the wash-off composition is formulated in a liquid format or a solid format, amounts and types of surfactants may vary.

[0044] For example, if the wash-off composition is formulated as a solid wash-off composition e.g. a bar, then the composition may comprise preferably from 25 to 70 wt%, preferably from 30 to 65 wt%, preferably from 35 to 60 wt%, preferably from 40 to 55 wt% surfactant e.g. a fatty acid soap and / or from 0.1 to 25 wt% preferably 1 to 22 wt%, preferably 3 to 20 wt%, preferably 5 to 15 wt% nonsoap synthetic surfactant whereby the bars typically comprise 10 to 35 wt%, preferably 12 to 32 wt%, preferably 14 to 30 wt%, preferably 14 to 28 wt% water.

[0045] Alternatively, for example, if the wash-off composition is formulated as a liquid wash-off composition e.g. hand-wash or body-wash composition, then the composition preferably comprises from 3 to 20 wt%, preferably from 5 to 20 wt%, more preferably from 5 to 18 wt%, even more preferably from 5 to 15 wt%, further more preferably from 5 to 14 wt% and still more preferably from 5 to 12 wt% surfactant. Preferably, surfactants present in such wash-off compositions may be selected from an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant and mixtures thereof.

[0046] A suitable anionic surfactant may be selected from a soap and / or a non-soap synthetic anionic surfactant.

[0047] Examples of soap include soaps that may be used as anionic surfactants in a wash-off composition include those formed after saponification of saturated fatty acids having carbon atoms in the range from C8 to C20 with an aqueous alkali e.g. sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and ammonium hydroxide. Typical examples of soap include caprylate (C8), caprates (C10), laurate (C12), myristate (C14), palmitate (C16) and stearate (C18) formed with an aqueous alkali mentioned earlier. Thus, preferred soaps are selected from potassium caprylate, potassium caprate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, sodium caprylate, sodium caprate, sodium laurate, sodium myristate, sodium palmitate sodium stearate and mixtures thereof. Often, soaps may be present as a mixture of soaps formed from fatty acids of varying chain lengths. An additional example of soap is oleate soaps e.g. sodium oleate and potassium oleate.

[0048] Preferably, a non-soap synthetic anionic surfactants is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates (AES), alpha olefin sulfonates (AOS), isethionates, taurates and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Examples of alkyl sulfates that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myristyl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS); sodium pareth sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Examples of AES that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactants include anionic surfactants of the general formula:

[0051] R1-(OR’)n-O-SO3- M+, wherein:

[0052] R1 is saturated or unsaturated C8-C16, preferably C12-C14 alkyl chain; preferably, R1 is a saturated C8-C16, more preferably a saturated C12-C14 alkyl chain;

[0053] R’ is ethylene; n is from 1 to 18; preferably from 1 to 15, more preferably from 1 to 10 and even more preferably from 1 to 5,

[0054] M+ is a suitable cation which provides charge neutrality, preferably sodium, calcium, potassium, or magnesium, ammonium, more preferably a sodium cation or ammonium. Examples of AES that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactants in the composition include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), sodium myristyl ether sulfate and sodium palmityl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ALES) and mixtures thereof. Preferred AES is SLES having 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule. SLES having 1 to 2 ethylene oxide units per molecule is more preferred.

[0055] Examples of AOS that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium olefin sulfonate. Examples of isethionate that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include, sodium lauryl isethionate; sodium cocoyl isethionate. Examples of taurates that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium taurates such as sodium lauryl methyl taurate and sodium cocoyl methyl taurate.

[0056] Preferably, nonionic surfactants are selected from: fatty alcohol ethoxylates with saturated carbon chain and having HLB higher than

[0057] 15.5 e.g. Brij® 35 (also known as Brij® L23), fatty alcohol ethoxylates with unsaturated carbon chain with HLB higher than 12, e.g. Brij® 97 and Brij® 99, polyoxyethylene sorbitan alkyl esters with saturated C12 to C16 carbon chain and having HLB higher than 12; e.g. Tween® 20, polyoxyethylene sorbitan alkyl esters with unsaturated C18 carbon chain and having HLB higher than 9; e.g. Tween® 80, Tween® 81 ; and Tween® 85; alkyl glucosides e.g. decyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Preferably, amphoteric surfactants are selected from betaines e.g. cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), sulfobetaine, cocoamphoacetate and mixtures thereof. More preferably, amophoteric surfactants are selected from betaine, sulfobetaine and mixtures thereof. Further more preferably, amphoteric surfactants selected is CAPB. Amphoteric surfactants provide foam boost and improve sensorial properties of the composition.

[0059] If the composition is formulated as a liquid wash-off composition, then it preferably comprises water in an amount from 50 to 95 wt%, more preferably from 60 to 90 wt%, even more preferably from 70 to 85 wt%, further more preferably from 75 to 80 wt% and still more preferably from 80 to 85 wt% water.

[0060] Preferably, the composition of the first aspect further comprises skin benefit agents. Preferably, a skin benefit agent is selected from niacinamide, hydroxystearic acid - including 10- hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, 10-hydroxypalmitic acid and mixtures thereof. Such skin benefit agents, alone or in combinations, may be present in amounts from 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.1 to 8 wt%, preferably 1 to 6 wt%, preferably 2 to 4 wt%, for example 3 wt%.

[0061] The composition of the first aspect described above preferably further comprises preservatives to protect the composition against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Examples of ingredients that may be used as preservatives in the composition include alkyl esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. More preferably, ingredients that may be used as preservative in the composition are sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, ethylhexylglycerin, benzyl alcohol, alkane diols and mixtures thereof. The alkane diols that are suitable for use as preservative are C6-C12 alkanes that are vicinally substituted with hydroxy groups. Illustrative examples include 1 ,2-octane diol (caprylyl glycol), 2,3-octane diol, 1 ,2-nonane diol, 1 ,2-decane diol, 1 ,2-hexane diol, 3,4-octane diol, mixtures thereof or the like where caprylyl glycol is typically the most preferred. When present in the composition, preservatives are added preferably in an amount 0.001 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt% and most preferably 0.02 to 2 wt%.

[0062] Preferably, the composition further comprises a skin brightening agent. Such skin brightening agent may be selected from vitamin B3, vitamin B6, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E, glutathione precursors, resorcinol, phenyl ethyl resorcinol, 4-alkyl resorcinol e.g. 4-ethyl resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, 4-hexyl resorcinol, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Alternatively, the skin brightening agent may also be selected from galardin, adapalene, ammonium lactate, arbutin, butyl hydroxy anisole, butyl hydroxy toluene, citrate esters, deoxyarbutin, 1 ,3-diphenyl propane derivatives, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, 2- (4-acetoxyphenyl)-1 ,3-dithiane, 2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1 ,3-dithiane, ellagic acid, glucopyranosyl-1- ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, , 4-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, 4-hydroxyanisole and its derivatives, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositol ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, acetylglucosamine, pitera extract, symwhite, calcium pantothenate (Melano-block), seppiwhite and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Such skin brightening agents may preferably be present in an amount from 0.01 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 7 wt% and even more preferably from 3 to 5 wt%. Preferably, the composition further comprises a polymer. The polymer acts as thickener in the composition and improves sensorial properties of the composition. The polymer is preferably selected from the following polymers: acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 22), acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 28), acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 88), acrylates copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 33), acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as PemulenTM TR-2), copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate with vinyl pyrrolidone (commercially available as Aristoflex® AVC), copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate with vinyl pyrrolidone (commercially available as Aristoflex® AVS); and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as Aristoflex® HMB and Aristoflex® BLV); and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Alternatively, the composition may comprise cellulose based thickeners such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the polymer is selected from acrylate I R-methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises 0.1 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.5 to 4.5 wt%, even more preferably 1 to 4 wt%, further more preferably from 1 .5 to 3.5 wt%, still more preferably from 2 to 3 wt% of these polymers.

[0066] The composition may further comprise a range of other optional ingredients that include antioxidants, binders, buffering agents, colorants, astringents, fragrance, opacifying agents, conditioners, exfoliating agents, skin soothing agents, and skin healing agents.

[0067] In addition to the product formats and application to the surface e.g. skin, the composition of the second aspect may also be formulated to be suitable for application to other external surfaces of the body e.g. to scalp and hair, when the composition of the first aspect is formulated as hair care compositions or deodorant compositions.

[0068] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin comprising the steps: a. applying the composition of the first aspect to the skin; and b. optionally, rinsing the skin with water. Preferably, in the second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin, mediated by improved 7-DHC generation in human skin comprising the steps: a. applying the composition of the first aspect to the skin; and b. optionally, rinsing the skin with water.

[0069] When the composition of the first aspect is used according to the method of the second aspect, improved generation of 7-DHC is obtained which further leads to improved vitamin D3 generation in the skin. The conversion of 7-DHC to vitamin D3 is a well-known process which takes place upon exposure to the sunlight. Thus, in a way, the method of the second aspect provides improved vitamin D3 generation in the human skin mediated through improved 7-DHC generation in the skin.

[0070] If the composition is formulated in the form of a leave-on composition, the step of application, step a., may be carried out simply by taking a suitable amount, e.g. 5 mL or 2 grams (depending on whether the composition is in liquid or solid form), of the composition on hands or on an applicator; and gently spreading it over the skin.

[0071] If the composition is formulated in the form of a wash-off composition, then the step a. may be carried out where the skin is first pre-wetted. If the composition is formulated in the form of a solid wash-off composition e.g. a bar, then in step a., the bar may also be pre-wetted with water before applying it on to the pre-wetted skin. If on the other hand, the composition is formulated in the form of a liquid wash-off composition, e.g. a liquid hand-wash composition, a suitable amount of the composition may be optionally mixed with an appropriate amount of water e.g. 5 mL; or it may be directly applied on to the prewetted skin.

[0072] As an optional step, the method comprises step b., where the skin is rinsed with water. In step b., as the skin is rinsed with water, the composition applied in the step a. gets removed from the skin it was applied on to. If carried out, the step b., may preferably be carried out within 5 minutes, more preferably within 4 minutes, even more preferably within 3 minutes, further more preferably within 2 minutes and yet more preferably within 1 minute e.g. 30 seconds, or 15 seconds, from carrying out step a. Such optional step b. is particularly required to be carried out within 5 minutes, if the composition is formulated into a wash-off type of composition e.g. a face wash composition. Preferably, the method is non-therapeutic / cosmetic in nature. Further, in a third aspect, the present invention relates to use of the composition of the first aspect for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin. Preferably, such improved benefit is mediated by improved 7-DHC generation in human skin. Thus in a way, the present invention relates to use of the composition of the first aspect for providing improved vitamin D3 generation mediated by improved 7-DHC generation. Preferably, the use is non-therapeutic / cosmetic in nature.

[0073] In a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to use of an unsaturated fatty acid having carbon chain length from 14 to 24, in a personal care composition comprising a terpenoid, for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin. Preferably, such benefit is mediated through improved 7-DHC generation in human skin. Preferably, the use is non-therapeutic / cosmetic in nature.

[0074] Vitamin D3 is known to be associated with functions like anti-aging, immunity boosting and with barrier function of the skin. Thus, providing improved vitamin D3 generation, preferably mediated by improved 7-DHC generation, provides such consumer relevant skin benefits.

[0075] The invention is now further described by way of the following non-limiting examples.

[0076] Examples

[0077] Synergistic 7-DHC generation upon treatment with an unsaturated fatty acids; and a terpenoid were evaluated as follows:

[0078] Materials and methods

[0079] Addex Bio Human Keratinocytes Cell Line (HaCaT) (CAT no. T0020001) was maintained in HIMEDIA High glucose DMEM (CAT no. AL219A) in 5% CO2 at 37°C. The cells were trypsinised using Trypsin-EDTA (Sigma T4049) when they were 80-85% confluent. The cells were differentiated using DMEM (CAT no. AL219A) containing 2.8 mM calcium chloride for 72 hours. Differentiated cells were used for further experiments.

[0080] The reconstructed human epidermis (RHE; 0.38 cm2surface area) was procured from Episkin, France. The RHE was maintained at 37°C with 5% CO2 in the growth medium for 24 hours. The test ingredients (25 pL) were added to the RHE and incubated in assay medium for 24 hours. Post incubation the tissues were processed for 7-DHC quantification.

[0081] Treatment of differentiated keratinocytes with squalane and fatty acids: 10% stock of Squalane (Sigma Cat no: 85630-250 ML; made in Portugal) was prepared in dimethyl sulfoxide DMSO (Sigma Cat No: D1435). Test concentrations, 0.005%, 0.01 %, and 0.05%, of squalane, were prepared by diluting the 10% stock in cell culture media. 10% stock of different fatty acids were prepared in DMSO. Test concentrations of 0.005%, 0.01 %, and 0.05%, of palmitic acid (sigma Cat no: P5585), stearic acid (Sigma Cat No:85679), oleic acid (Sigma Cat No:75090), linoleic acid (Sigma Cat No: L1012), linolenic acid (Sigma Cat No: L2376), palmitoleic acid (Sigma Cat No:76169), were prepared by diluting the 10% stock in cell culture media.

[0082] HaCaT keratinocytes and the RHE were treated with test conditions as shown in tables 1 and 2, respectively, below; and incubated for 24 hours. After incubation, 2 mL methanol and 1 mL chloroform were added. The cells in the chloroform-methanol solution were probe-sonicated for 1 minute and centrifuged for 15 minutes at 3000 rpm. The supernatant was transferred to a fresh tube, and 7-DHC was quantified as described below.

[0083] LC-MS-based quantification of 7-DHC:

[0084] The supernatants were evaporated to dryness at 45°C (approximately 15 min) using a nitrogen concentrate device. To each sample, 2 mL of methanol was added, vortexed, and filtered through a 0.22 mm PVDF membrane filter (Grace Davison Discovery Science, Deerfield, IL, USA). 10 pL of samples were analyzed using Waters Xevo TQ-S micro (LC-MS equipment) using X-Bridge BEH C18 2.5pm 2.1X 100mm Column XP (analytical column) at 40°C with a flow rate of 0.3 mL / minute. The detector used was MS with a run time of 10 minutes. The mobile phase was 100% Acetonitrile sonicated for 10 minutes and filtered through a 0.22 urn filter. The stock standard solutions of the 7-DHC component were prepared in methanol at the concentration level of 1 mg / mL. Working standard concentrations of 7-DHC prepared were 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 & 200 ppb in methanol by diluting the stock solution. The retention time of 7-DHC was 4.59 minutes.

[0085] The analysis provided the concentration of each sample based on the peak area. The concentration reported in ppm (parts per billion) was used for further synergy calculation.

[0086] Immunostaining for Collagen in dermal fibroblasts.

[0087] Human adult dermal fibroblasts were procured from ATCC (catalogue number: PCS-201-012). The cells were grown in DMEM from HiMedia (catalogue number: AL219A). The growth media was supplemented with 1 mM sodium pyruvate, 0.03 mM calcium chloride and 1X antibiotics and antimycotics solution. The cells were plated on cover slips and allowed to become a monolayer. The cells were treated with 50 ppb of Vitamin D3 (Sigma catalogue number: C9756) and incubated for 24 hours. After 24 hours, the cells were washed with 1X PBS twice. The cells were fixed with ice cold methanol and kept at 4°C overnight. Next day blocking buffer containing 5% BSA (bovine serum albumin) was added to the cells to reduce non-specific binding. The cells were incubated with blocking buffer at room temperature for an hour. The blocking buffer was removed and then the anti-collagen antibody (catalogue number: sc- 293182) diluted 1 :500 in PBS, was added. The incubation was done at4°Celsius overnight. Next day the primary antibody was washed thrice using 500 pl of PBS on each sample in coverslip. After washing, the secondary antibody diluted 1 :1000 in PBS was added (Goat anti-Mouse IgG - Alexa488(A-11001) Invitrogen) and incubated for 1 hour at room temperature in dark. After incubation, the coverslips were washed thrice with PBS as mentioned above. The coverslips were placed in antifade solution during the imaging. Coverslips were mounted on to the microscopic slides containing 10 pl of nuclear stain (DAPI) in glycerol and observed under microscope using 20X and 40X magnification. Collagen protein was observed as green florescence stain and nuclear stain was observed as blue florescence.

[0088] Imaging and quantification

[0089] The images of the cells stained with fluorescent dyes were captured in 20X and 40X magnification. The fluorescence signal intensity was calculated using image J software. The total area to be quantified was marked and the intensity was captured. The intensity was measured as arbitrary unit (a.u.). The intensity of the control and treatment was measured. The cells treated with Vitamin D showed increased fluorescent intensity as compared to control. This demonstrates that Vitamin D can increase the levels of collagen in fibroblasts as shown in table 3a below.

[0090] Where cited in tables below, the ratio is the weight ratio of an unsaturated fatty acid to a terpenoid.

[0091] Table 1a: 7-DHC generation when HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with fatty acids (saturated or unsaturated: alone) or with squalane alone.

[0092]

[0093] Table 1b: 7-DHC generation when HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with saturated fatty acids in combination with squalane. Table 1c: 7-DHC generation when HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with unsaturated fatty acids in combination with squalane. P0000925WC CPL

[0094] 19

[0095] Table 2a: 7-DHC generation when reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was treated with fatty acids (saturated or unsaturated, alone) or with squalane alone.

[0096] Table 2b: 7-DHC generation when reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was treated with saturated fatty acids in combination with squalane. P0000925WC CPL

[0097] 20

[0098] Table 2c: 7-DHC generation when reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was treated with unsaturated fatty acids in combination with squalane.

[0099] Further, fibroblasts were treated with vitamin D3 as describe earlier; and intensity of collagen expression were visualized as described above; and was found to be as shown in table 3 below.

[0100] Table 3: Collagen expression; a measure of anti-aging

Claims

Claims:1 . A personal care composition comprising: a. from 0.001 to 20 wt% of an unsaturated fatty acid selected from mono-unsaturated or poly-unsaturated fatty acids having carbon chain length from 14 to 24; and b. from 0.001 to 15 wt% of a terpenoid, wherein the weight ratio of the unsaturated fatty acid and the terpenoid is in the range 1 :20 to 20:1.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the unsaturated fatty acid is selected from myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 2 wherein the unsaturated fatty acid is selected from palmitoleic acid, linoleic acid and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition as claimed in claim 3 wherein the unsaturated fatty acid is linoleic acid.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the terpenoid is selected from an aliphatic terpenoids.

6. The composition as claimed in claim 5 wherein the aliphatic terpenoid is selected from squalane, squalene, geraniol, linalool, farnesol and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition as claimed in claim 6 wherein the aliphatic terpenoid is selected from squalane, squalene and mixtures thereof; preferably squalane.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the weight ratio of the unsaturated fatty acid and the terpenoid is in the range 1 :10 to 10:1.

9. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the composition comprises the unsaturated fatty acid in amounts from 0.1 to 10 wt%.

10. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the composition comprises the terpenoid in amounts from 0.1 to 10 wt%.

11. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the composition is in leave-on form such as a cream, a lotion and a serum.

12. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the composition is in wash-off form further comprising from 3 to 80 wt% surfactant.

13. A method for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin wherein the method comprises the steps: a. applying the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13 on to the skin; and b. optionally, rinsing the skin with water.

14. Use of the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13 for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin.

15. Use of an unsaturated fatty acid having carbon chain length from 14 to 24, in a personal care composition comprising a terpenoid, for providing improved anti-aging benefit to human skin.

Citation Information

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