Method for producing solid powder cosmetic material

By using specific ester oils and volatile hydrocarbon-based solvents in the slurry of solid powder cosmetics and combining with plate-shaped powder, the problems of insufficient chromaticity, color development and impact resistance of solid powder cosmetics are solved, and the effects of high chromaticity, high color development and good impact resistance are achieved.

CN112842939BActive Publication Date: 2025-04-18TOKIWA CORP
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202011339844.0
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2019-11-28
Filing Date
2020-11-25
Publication Date
2025-04-18
Estimated Expiration
2040-11-25

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

The color and color rendering properties of solid powder cosmetics are insufficient when applied, have poor usage, and have poor impact resistance, which is prone to decolorization, affecting appearance and use effect.

Method used

The powder slurry is produced by a wet method, and an ester oil with a specific hydroxyl value and an incompatible volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent are used in the powder slurry as oily components and solvents, and the plate-like powder is combined to improve chromaticity and color development while enhancing impact resistance.

Benefits of technology

A solid powder cosmetic with high chromaticity and color rendering properties during coating, excellent use feeling, and sufficient impact resistance is achieved, while reducing the color difference between the surface color and the internal color.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention provides a method for producing a solid powder cosmetic, which comprises a step of preparing a slurry and a step of compressing the slurry, wherein the slurry comprises a cosmetic base material containing an oily component and a powdery component, and a volatile hydrocarbon solvent, wherein the oily component comprises an ester oil having a hydroxyl value of 40 to 85 and being insoluble in the hydrocarbon solvent, and the powdery component comprises a plate-like powder.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a method for producing a solid powder cosmetic material. Background Art

[0002] Solid powder cosmetics are composed of powder components and oily components, and are used for makeup cosmetics such as eye shadow, blush, and foundation. For such solid powder cosmetics, people hope that they have sufficient impact resistance to cope with the movement when carrying. In addition, regarding the feeling of use, it is expected that the chroma and color rendering are high when applied, and it is smoothly extended and tightly adhered to the skin, and has a good long-lasting makeup effect.

[0003] As methods for producing solid powder cosmetics, there are known dry methods and wet methods. The dry method is to mix a powder component with an oily component, fill it into a mold, press and shape it, and the wet method is to mix a powder component with an oily component in a solvent to make a slurry, fill the obtained slurry into a mold, lightly press it, dry it, remove the solvent and shape it (for example, the following patent document 1).

[0004] Patent Literature

[0005] Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2016-124839 Summary of the invention

[0006] Solid powder cosmetics obtained by wet production methods are easy to obtain fine powder and moist feeling in use because they are in a slurry state, which improves the uniform dispersion of powder and oil. However, on the other hand, the surface of the cosmetics after forming tends to look whitish and easily fade. For cosmetics that fade, it is difficult to show the color of application to buyers based on the color of the appearance, and it is also difficult to promote the advantages of chromaticity and color rendering when applied to buyers.

[0007] The chromaticity and color development of solid powder cosmetics can be improved by mixing plate-like powders corresponding to the purpose. For example, when pearlescent feeling is to be expressed, glitter powders based on plate-like powders are used. In addition, when good ductility and adhesion are to be obtained during coating, plate-like powders such as talc are used. However, if a large amount of plate-like powders are mixed in solid powder cosmetics, the impact resistance tends to deteriorate, and in the composition in which a large amount of oily components are mixed at the same time in order to suppress this tendency, the problem of poor molding is likely to occur.

[0008] Therefore, the object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a solid powder cosmetic material which can obtain the following solid powder cosmetic material: the chromaticity and color rendering of the solid powder cosmetic material when applied are sufficiently high, the ductility and adhesion to the skin and other usage feel are excellent, the color difference between the surface color and the internal color of the unused part is small, and it also has sufficient impact resistance.

[0009] In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the inventors of the present invention conducted intensive research and found that when a solid powder cosmetic containing plate-like powder is manufactured by a wet method, by using a combination of an ester oil having a specific hydroxyl value and a volatile hydrocarbon solvent that is incompatible with the ester oil as the oil component and the solvent contained in the slurry, a solid powder cosmetic having excellent color development and feel in use, hue of the pressed surface, and impact resistance can be obtained, thereby completing the present invention.

[0010] That is, the present invention provides a method for producing a solid powder cosmetic, which comprises the steps of preparing a slurry and compressing the slurry, wherein the slurry comprises a cosmetic base material and a volatile hydrocarbon solvent, the cosmetic base material contains an oily component and a powdery component, the oily component comprises an ester oil (A) having a hydroxyl value of 40 to 85 and being insoluble in the hydrocarbon solvent, and the powdery component comprises a plate-like powder (B).

[0011] According to the manufacturing method of the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention, by having the above-mentioned steps, it is possible to obtain a solid powder cosmetic that has sufficiently high chroma and color rendering when applied, excellent feel of use such as ductility and adhesion to the skin, small color difference between the surface color and the internal color of the unused part, and sufficient impact resistance.

[0012] From the viewpoint of achieving a higher level of balance between the above effects, the ester oil (A) preferably contains a structural unit derived from hydrogenated castor oil and / or a structural unit derived from a dimer acid.

[0013] Furthermore, from the viewpoint of achieving the above-mentioned effects at a higher standard, preferably, the ester oil (A) comprises at least one ester oil selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate copolymer, hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer and hydrogenated castor oil dimer linoleate, and the hydrocarbon solvent comprises at least one of isoparaffin and isododecane.

[0014] The content of the powder component in the cosmetic base material may be 75 to 95% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material.

[0015] The plate-like powder (B) may include a plate-like powder coated with a metal oxide. In this case, the solid powder cosmetic can be endowed with characteristics due to the coating with the metal oxide.

[0016] The content of the ester oil (A) in the cosmetic base material may be 0.1 to 5% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material.

[0017] According to the present invention, there is provided a method for producing a solid powder cosmetic material which can obtain a solid powder cosmetic material having sufficiently high chromaticity and color rendering when applied, excellent feel of use such as spreadability and adhesion to the skin, small color difference between the surface color of the unused part and the internal color, and sufficient impact resistance. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0018] The manufacturing method of the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment includes: a process of preparing a slurry (hereinafter also referred to as a slurry preparation process) and a process of compressing and molding the slurry (hereinafter also referred to as a molding process), wherein the slurry contains a cosmetic base material containing an oily component and a powder component, and a volatile hydrocarbon solvent.

[0019] In this specification, a volatile solvent refers to a solvent having a boiling point of 250° C. or less at 1 atmosphere (101.325 kPa).

[0020] First, the oily component and the powder component contained in the cosmetic base material constituting the solid powder cosmetic material will be described.

[0021] (oily ingredients)

[0022] As the oily component, components generally used in cosmetics can be mixed, for example, solid oils and oils other than solid oils can be used. The oily component can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0023] As solid oils, for example, hydrocarbons such as paraffin, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, etc., plant-derived oils and fats such as hardened castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, etc., esters such as tribehenin and cholesterol fatty acid esters, higher fatty acids such as stearic acid and behenic acid, higher alcohols such as stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, silicones such as hydrocarbon-modified silicones and acrylic-modified silicones, sugar fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate and stearoyl inulin, etc. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0024] As the oil agent other than solid oil, paste oil and liquid oil can be used. As paste oil, for example, petrolatum, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate, caprylic acid / capric acid / myristic acid / stearic acid triglyceride, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, phytosterol oleate, sucrose tetrastearate triacetate, sucrose hexaoleate / hexapalmitate / hexastearate etc. can be listed. They can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0025] Examples of the liquid oil include nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and hydrogenated polydecene; ester oils such as diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl triisostearate, dipentaerythritol pentaisostearate, and trimethylolpropane triisostearate; plant oils such as castor oil; higher alcohols; higher fatty acids; silicone oils such as methylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasilane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, stearoxymethylpolysiloxane, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and fluorine-modified silicone, etc. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0026] The content of the oily component in the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment can be set to 5 to 20% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material. From the viewpoint of impact resistance and anti-caking, it is preferably set to 7 to 18% by mass, more preferably 8 to 16% by mass, and further preferably 10 to 15% by mass.

[0027] The cosmetic base material of this embodiment may contain, as an oil component, an ester oil (A) (hereinafter also referred to as ester oil (A)) which is insoluble in the volatile hydrocarbon solvent contained in the slurry and has a hydroxyl value of 40 to 85. The ester oil (A) may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0028] Here, the ester oil insoluble in the hydrocarbon solvent (in other words, the hydrocarbon solvent and the ester oil are incompatible) means that when 0.5 g of the ester oil and 5 g of the hydrocarbon solvent are added to a screw-neck bottle at 25° C., mixed with a stirring rod, and the state after standing for 15 minutes is visually observed, white turbidity or separation is observed. It should be noted that when the slurry contains two or more volatile hydrocarbon solvents, an ester oil that is confirmed to be insoluble in the mixture of these solvents in the above method can be used in combination.

[0029] The hydroxyl value of the ester oil refers to a value measured in accordance with the "Standard Oil and Fats Analysis Test Method" (established by the Japan Oil Chemists' Society).

[0030] The hydroxyl value of the ester oil (A) may be 40-85, 45-80, or 45-75.

[0031] As the ester oil (A), from the viewpoint of improving the color development and feel during use of the solid powder cosmetic, the color tone of the pressed surface, and the impact resistance, it is preferred to use an ester oil containing a structural unit derived from hydrogenated castor oil (hardened castor oil) and / or a structural unit derived from a dimer acid.

[0032] As the ester oil containing the structural unit derived from dimer acid, esters of dibasic acids obtained by polymerizing two molecules of unsaturated fatty acids can be used, for example, esters of dimer linoleic acid, dimer linolenic acid, dimer dioleic acid, etc., and hydrogenated products thereof, etc. As the ester part of these dimer acid esters, alkyl or alkenyl groups derived from higher alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, etc.; polyols such as diglycerol and glycerol; dimer diols obtained by polymerizing two molecules of unsaturated alcohols such as dimer linoleyl alcohol can be mentioned.

[0033] As the ester oil containing a structural unit derived from dimer acid, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer linoleate copolymer can be preferably used. This copolymer can be produced, for example, by a condensation reaction of diglycerin, isostearic acid and hydrogenated dimer acid, and commercially available products such as "HILU CENT ISDA" (trade name, manufactured by Kohler Alcore Industries, Ltd.) can also be used.

[0034] As the ester oil containing a structural unit derived from hydrogenated castor oil, oligoesters of hydrogenated castor oil and saturated dibasic acids can be used. Examples of the saturated dibasic acids include succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, octadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

[0035] As the ester oil containing a structural unit derived from hydrogenated castor oil, a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer can be preferably used. As this copolymer, a commercially available product such as "CLODA BONDO CSA-LQ-(JP)" (manufactured by CLOUDA DIAPAN CO., LTD., trade name) can be used.

[0036] As the ester oil containing a structural unit derived from hydrogenated castor oil and a structural unit derived from a dimer acid, an oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and a dimer acid can be used.

[0037] As the oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and dimer acid, commercially available hydrogenated castor oil dimer linoleate may be used, and examples of commercially available products include "Lisokaster DA-L" and "Lisokaster DA-H" (trade names manufactured by Kohler Alcore Industries, Ltd.).

[0038] The ester oil (A) is preferably a paste-like ester oil at 25°C or having a viscosity of 10,000 mPa·s or more. It should be noted that the above viscosity is measured using a BH type viscometer and a rotor No. 6 at a rotation speed of 10 rpm when the viscosity of the ester oil is 10,000 to 100,000 mPa·s, and using a BH type viscometer and a rotor No. 7 at a rotation speed of 10 rpm at 25°C when the viscosity of the ester oil is 100,000 to 350,000 mPa·s. It should be noted that the above viscometer and rotor can be those manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd. The viscosity of the ester oil (A) is preferably 10,000 to 200,000 mPa·s, and more preferably 40,000 to 100,000 mPa·s.

[0039] In the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment, from the viewpoint of improving the color development and feel of the solid powder cosmetic material, the color tone of the pressed surface, and the impact resistance, the ester oil (A) preferably contains at least one ester oil selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer linoleate copolymer, hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, and hydrogenated castor oil dimer linoleate. Furthermore, when the cosmetic base material contains these ester oils, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent preferably contains at least one of isoparaffin and isododecane.

[0040] From the viewpoint of improving impact resistance and feel during use, the content of the ester oil (A) in the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 4% by mass, further preferably 1 to 3% by mass, and further preferably 1.5 to 3% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material.

[0041] In addition, regarding the content ratio of the ester oil (A) in the oily component contained in the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment, from the viewpoint of achieving good impact resistance and feel during use, the mass ratio of the ester oil (A) to the total amount of the oily component [ester oil (A)] / [oily component] is preferably 0.1 / 20 to 1 / 1, more preferably 0.5 / 20 to 4 / 7, further preferably 1 / 16 to 3 / 8, and further preferably 1 / 10 to 1 / 5 mass %.

[0042] Furthermore, regarding the content ratio of the ester oil (A) and the volatile hydrocarbon solvent in the slurry of the present embodiment, from the viewpoint of making the chromaticity and color development of the pressed surface good, the mass ratio of the ester oil (A) to the volatile hydrocarbon solvent [ester oil (A)] / [volatile hydrocarbon solvent] is preferably 0.1 / 80 to 5 / 10, more preferably 0.5 / 75 to 4 / 15, and further preferably 1 / 70 to 3 / 20.

[0043] (powder ingredient)

[0044] As the powder component, generally, any powder used for cosmetics can be used without particular limitation, and examples thereof include physical powder, white pigment, coloring pigment, etc. The shape of the powder is also not particularly limited, and the powder may have a spherical, plate-like, needle-like shape, a particle size of smoke, microparticles, or pigment grade, and a porous, non-porous, or other particle structure. The powder component may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0045] Specifically, examples include body pigments such as mica, synthetic mica, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, bentonite, montmorillonite, aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide, and aluminum magnesium hydroxide; ultraviolet scattering agents such as particulate titanium dioxide and particulate zinc oxide; organic powders such as nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, acrylonitrile-methacrylic acid copolymer powder, vinylidene chloride-methacrylic acid copolymer, polyethylene powder, polystyrene powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, polyurethane powder, wool powder, silk powder, cellulose powder, and N-acyl lysine powder; composite powders such as particulate titanium dioxide-coated mica titanium, particulate titanium dioxide-coated nylon, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, titanium dioxide-containing silica, and zinc oxide-containing silica; and metal soaps such as magnesium stearate, zinc myristate, aluminum stearate, and calcium stearate.

[0046] Examples of the coloring pigment include inorganic coloring pigments such as red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, cobalt oxide, chromium oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide; organic coloring pigments such as Red No. 228, Red No. 226, Blue No. 404, Red No. 202, and Yellow No. 4 aluminum lake; pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium, microparticle titanium dioxide-coated mica titanium, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, fish scale foil, bismuth oxychloride, and aluminum flakes; and natural pigments such as carmine and safflower.

[0047] From the viewpoint of color development and adhesion, these powder components are preferably hydrophobic treated powders. Examples of hydrophobic treatment include higher fatty acids, metal soaps, oils and fats, waxes, silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, surfactants, and dextrin fatty acid esters.

[0048] In the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment, the powder component preferably includes a plate-like powder (B) from the viewpoint of allowing the cosmetic material to smoothly spread on the skin and to adhere closely to the skin, thereby achieving good long-lasting makeup properties.

[0049] For the plate-like powder, from the viewpoint of color development and feel in use, the average particle size is preferably 0.1 to 300.0 μm, more preferably 1.0 to 200 μm, and further preferably 3.0 to 100 μm. The aspect ratio of the plate-like powder is preferably 8 to 400, more preferably 10 to 300, and further preferably 15 to 200. It should be noted that the average particle size of the plate-like powder refers to the 50% median particle size measured by the laser diffraction method. In addition, the aspect ratio refers to the average particle size / average thickness.

[0050] As the plate-like powder, for example, talc, mica, synthetic mica, sericite, anhydrous silica (silicicanhydride), kaolin, calcium carbonate, alumina, and glass can be used. The plate-like powder may be a powder that has been coated.

[0051] From the viewpoint of making the chromaticity and color rendering of solid powder cosmetics good, the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment may include a plate-like powder coated with a metal oxide. In this case, it is possible to give the solid powder cosmetics the characteristics (such as pearlescent feeling, etc.) generated based on the coating of metal oxides. As the plate-like powder coated with metal oxides, glitter powder, iron oxide coated mica titanium, iron oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated talc, zinc oxide coated mica, zinc oxide coated talc, etc. can be listed. For glitter powder, the plate-like powder as the matrix can be aluminum oxide, glass or mica.

[0052] However, compared with mica, alumina or glass has a lower oil absorption, and when combined with oily components, it is easy to cause agglomeration and poor cosmetic removability. If the amount of oily components is reduced to avoid these problems, the powders will be difficult to bond, and the impact resistance tends to deteriorate. In addition, when a solid powder cosmetic is manufactured using a wet method, the oily components are mixed with volatile solvents, which will give the solvent overall viscosity. When the viscosity becomes too high, the solvent will not be fully absorbed during compression, which tends to cause poor compression molding. Here, if the amount of oily components is reduced, as mentioned above, the powders will not be bonded enough and the impact resistance will deteriorate.

[0053] In this regard, according to the method for producing a solid powder cosmetic material involved in the present invention, even when the above-mentioned glitter powder is added, it is possible to obtain a solid powder cosmetic material that has sufficiently high chromaticity and color development when applied, excellent use feel such as ductility and adhesion to the skin, and a small color difference between the surface color of the unused part and the color of the inside, and sufficient impact resistance. It is believed that the reason why such an effect can be obtained is that by adding an ester oil (A) that is insoluble in a volatile hydrocarbon solvent, insufficient absorption of the solvent and poor compression molding caused by an increase in the viscosity of the solvent can be prevented. In addition, since the ester oil (A) is insoluble in a volatile hydrocarbon solvent, the ester oil (A) is easily left in the cosmetic material when the solvent is absorbed, and even if a large amount of oily components are not added, the powders can be fully bonded, thereby improving the impact resistance. In addition, it is believed that the ester oil (A) having a hydroxyl value in a specific range suppresses the dispersion of the pigment in the solvent and reduces the discoloration during pressing.

[0054] From the viewpoint of improving the chromaticity, color development, and smooth spreadability on the skin during application, the content of the powder component in the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment is preferably 75 to 95% by mass, more preferably 80 to 95% by mass, and even more preferably 80 to 90% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material.

[0055] From the viewpoint of allowing the cosmetic to smoothly spread on the skin and adhere tightly to make the makeup last longer, the content of the plate-like powder (B) in the cosmetic base material of this embodiment is preferably 3 to 90% by mass, more preferably 20 to 87% by mass, and even more preferably 40 to 85% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material.

[0056] From the viewpoint of improving impact resistance and usability, the mass ratio [(A) / (B)] of the ester oil (A) to the plate-like powder (B) in the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment is preferably 0.1 / 90 to 5 / 75, more preferably 1 / 80 to 3 / 90.

[0057] When the cosmetic base material of the present embodiment includes the above-mentioned plate-like powder (B') coated with a metal oxide, the mass ratio of the plate-like powder (B) to the plate-like powder (B') coated with a metal oxide [(B') / (B)] is preferably 3 / 95 to 1 / 1, and more preferably 5 / 90 to 1 / 2. In addition, the mass ratio of the ester oil (A) to the plate-like powder (B') coated with a metal oxide [(A) / (B')] is preferably 0.5 / 95 to 1 / 1, and more preferably 1 / 90 to 1 / 2.

[0058] From the viewpoint of making the cosmetic spread smoothly on the skin and adhere tightly to the skin so as to make the makeup last long, the total content of the oily component and the powder component in the cosmetic base material of this embodiment is preferably 85 to 100 mass %, more preferably 87 to 99 mass %, and further preferably 90 to 98 mass %, based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material.

[0059] In addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, the cosmetic base material of this embodiment may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as preservatives, antioxidants, pigments, thickeners, pH adjusters, fragrances, ultraviolet absorbers, moisturizers, chelating agents, anti-inflammatory agents, surfactants, etc.

[0060] (Volatile hydrocarbon solvent)

[0061] Next, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent contained in the slurry will be described.

[0062] As described above, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent is immiscible with the ester oil (A). The volatile hydrocarbon solvent can be appropriately selected according to the ester oil (A) to be formulated, but the volatile hydrocarbon solvent preferably contains at least one of isoparaffin and isododecane. The isoparaffin can be a light liquid isoparaffin.

[0063] (Slip preparation process)

[0064] As a method for preparing the slurry, there is mentioned a method of adding a volatile hydrocarbon solvent to a cosmetic base material containing the oil component and the powder component in the above-mentioned blending amounts and mixing them.

[0065] For example, the cosmetic base material can be prepared by a method including the steps of: obtaining a first mixture mixed with a powder component; obtaining a second mixture mixed with an oily component; and mixing the first mixture and the second mixture.

[0066] The step of obtaining the first mixture can be performed, for example, using a supermixer or a Henschel mixer, and can also be pulverized using an atomizer as needed.

[0067] The step of obtaining the second mixture can be performed, for example, using a disperser, a homomixer, or the like, and the oily component can be mixed while heating at 60 to 80°C, preferably 60 to 70°C.

[0068] The step of mixing the first mixture and the second mixture can be performed using, for example, a high-speed mixer or a Henschel mixer, and can also be pulverized using a pulverizer or the like as needed.

[0069] The cosmetic base material and the volatile hydrocarbon solvent may be mixed by, for example, mixing using a kneader, a universal mixer, etc. Furthermore, the mixture may be mixed while heating as required.

[0070] In terms of mass ratio, the mixing ratio of the cosmetic base material and the volatile hydrocarbon solvent in the slurry of this embodiment can be set to: cosmetic base material: volatile hydrocarbon solvent = 100:10 to 100:80, and from the viewpoint of formability, it is preferably 100:20 to 100:60.

[0071] The slurry of this embodiment may contain a dispersion medium other than the volatile hydrocarbon solvent as long as the effect of the present invention is not impaired. Examples of the dispersion medium include volatile solvents such as water, isopropyl alcohol, acetone, and ethanol.

[0072] (Forming process)

[0073] In the step of compression molding the slip, for example, the slip obtained as described above may be degassed as necessary, filled into a predetermined container, compression molded by suction compression molding or the like, and then dried using a dryer as appropriate.

[0074] Examples of the specific container include medium-sized trays such as metal trays and resin trays.

[0075] After the above steps, a solid powder cosmetic material can be obtained. The solid powder cosmetic material can have the same composition as the above cosmetic material base material.

[0076] Solid powder cosmetics are suitable for use as foundation, contouring, eye shadow, eyebrow powder, blush and other makeup cosmetics.

[0077] [Example]

[0078] Below, the present invention is described in more detail by examples, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples. It should be noted that the numerical values ​​in the table represent the content (mass %) based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material (the total amount of the components other than the volatile solvent). Regarding the volatile solvent, the ratio (mass parts) relative to 100 mass parts of the total amount of the cosmetic base material (the total amount of the components other than the volatile solvent) is shown.

[0079] Before describing the examples, the evaluation methods used in the examples will be described.

[0080] (1) Impact resistance

[0081] Each solid powder cosmetic sample was dropped from a height of 50 cm onto a plastic tile with the contents facing upward, and the state after falling five times was visually observed. Four levels of evaluation were performed according to the following evaluation criteria, and each sample was scored. The average score of the whole group was then determined according to the following criteria (n=5).

[0082] [Rating: Evaluation criteria]

[0083] 4 points: No change

[0084] 3 points: Some floating, chipping, or cracking occurs, but no problem

[0085] 2 points: Some parts are floating, missing, or cracked

[0086] 1 point: There are floating, defects, and cracks on the whole

[0087] [Judgment criteria (average score)]

[0088] ◎:3.5 or above

[0089] ○: 3.0 or more to less than 3.5

[0090] △: 2.0 or more to less than 3.0

[0091] ×: less than 2.0

[0092] (2) Color difference

[0093] The cosmetic surface was repeatedly rubbed 30 times with a makeup stick, and the color difference ΔE* between the surface color of the used part and the surface color of the unused part was measured using a colorimeter CR-400 (manufactured by Conika Minolta), and the evaluation was made according to the following evaluation criteria.

[0094] [Evaluation criteria]

[0095] ◎: ΔE*<5.0

[0096] ○: 5.0≤ΔE*<7.0

[0097] △: 7.0≤ΔE*<9.0

[0098] ×: 9.0≤ΔE*

[0099] (3) Chromaticity (transparency) or color rendering and usage experience

[0100] Twenty professional cosmetic evaluation panelists used the solid powder cosmetics of the embodiments and comparative examples to evaluate the "chromaticity (transparency) or color rendering" and the "extendability" and "fit feeling" as the feeling of use, respectively, on a five-level scale according to the following evaluation criteria, scored each sample, and then determined the average score of the entire group according to the following criteria.

[0101] [Rating: Evaluation criteria]

[0102] 5 points: Very good

[0103] 4 points: Good

[0104] 3 points: General

[0105] 2 points: slightly worse

[0106] 1 point: poor

[0107] [Judgment criteria (average score)]

[0108] ◎: 4 or more

[0109] ○: 3 or more to less than 4

[0110] △: 2 or more to less than 3

[0111] ×: Less than 2

[0112] (Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5)

[0113] Eye shadows having the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by the following production methods, and the above-mentioned evaluations were performed. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2 together.

[0114] <Preparation method>

[0115] The powder components were mixed by a Henschel mixer, and the oily components were separately heated and mixed at 60 to 80°C, and stirred in the Henschel mixer to prepare a cosmetic base. Here, the volatile solvents shown in the table were added in a specified amount and mixed to form a slurry. The slurry was filled into a medium-sized pan (metal pan), pressed by suction, and dried to prepare an eye shadow sample.

[0116] [Table 1]

[0117]

[0118] [Table 2]

[0119]

[0120] In Tables 1 and 2, the details of each component are as follows.

[0121] [Oily ingredients]

[0122] Ester oil-1: "HILUCENT ISDA" (manufactured by Advanced Alcore Industries, Ltd., trade name, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer linoleate copolymer), hydroxyl value: 55, viscosity: 52000 mPa·s

[0123] Ester oil-2: "Clodamore CWS-S" (manufactured by Croda Japan Co., Ltd., trade name, hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer), hydroxyl value: 59, viscosity: 57500 mPa·s

[0124] Ester oil-3: "Cosmore 168ARV" (manufactured by Nissin Oligrup Co., Ltd., trade name, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate), hydroxyl value: 90 to 110 (catalog value), paste (viscosity cannot be measured)

[0125] Ester oil-4: "Plandool-G" (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd., trade name, bis-behenyl alcohol / isostearyl alcohol / phytosteryl dimer linoleyl dimer linoleate), hydroxyl value: 25 or less (catalog value), paste (viscosity cannot be measured)

[0126] Ester oil-5: "Cosmore 43N" (manufactured by Nissin Oil Group Co., Ltd., trade name, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate), hydroxyl value: 30 to 50 (catalog value), viscosity: 22500 mPa·s

[0127] [Powder ingredients]

[0128] Alumina matrix flash powder: "Mirinae A-7001K Splendor Gold" (manufactured by CQV Co., Ltd., trade name, particle size 15 to 19 μm)

[0129] Glass matrix glitter powder: "Astral Effect Gold Shimmer" (manufactured by Kuroda Japan Co., Ltd., particle size 10 to 40 μm)

[0130] Mica-based glossy powder: "Timiron Super Gold" (Merku Co., Ltd., particle size 10 to 60 μm)

[0131] Iron oxide black coated mica titanium: "Colorona Mica Black" (Merku Co., Ltd., particle size 18-25 μm)

[0132] Coloring pigments-1, -2, -3: The coloring pigments contain appropriate amounts of red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, and red 226.

[0133] [Volatile solvents]

[0134] Light liquid paraffin: "IP Solvent 1620MU" (manufactured by Idemitsu Kosan Co., Ltd., trade name, boiling point 166°C)

[0135] (Determination of Hydroxyl Value of Ester Oil)

[0136] The hydroxyl value of ester oil was measured according to the "Standard Oil and Fats Analysis Test Method" (established by the Japan Oil Chemistry Society).

[0137] (Determination of viscosity of ester oil)

[0138] The viscosity of the ester oil at 25° C. was measured using a BH type viscometer (manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.). When the viscosity of the ester oil was 10,000 to 100,000 mPa·s, the BH type viscometer and a rotor No. 6 were used to measure the viscosity at a rotation speed of 10 rpm. When the viscosity of the ester oil was 100,000 to 350,000 mPa·s, the BH type viscometer and a rotor No. 7 were used to measure the viscosity at a rotation speed of 10 rpm.

[0139] (Compatibility of ester oil and volatile solvents)

[0140] For the ester oil and volatile solvent shown in the table, 0.5 g of the ester oil and 5 g of the hydrocarbon solvent were added to a screw-neck bottle at 25° C., mixed with a stirring rod, and the state after standing for 15 minutes was visually observed. In the table, the case where white turbidity or separation was observed was indicated as "insoluble", and the case where it was transparent was indicated as "compatible".

[0141] As shown in Tables 1 to 2, the solid powder cosmetics obtained in Examples 1 to 9 were evaluated as "○" or "◎" in "impact resistance", "color difference", "chromaticity (transparency) or color rendering", and "feeling in use (extensibility, comfort)".

[0142] (Example 10: Blush)

[0143]

[0144] The details of the above components are the same as those described above.

[0145] <Preparation method>

[0146] The powder components were mixed by a Henschel mixer, and the oily components were separately heated and mixed at 60 to 80°C, and stirred in the Henschel mixer to prepare a cosmetic base. Here, the volatile solvents shown in the table were added in a specified amount and mixed to form a slurry. The slurry was filled into a medium-sized pan (metal pan), pressed by suction, and dried to prepare a blush sample.

[0147] <Evaluation>

[0148] The obtained blush samples were evaluated in the same manner as above, and the evaluation results showed that the samples were evaluated as follows: "◎" for impact resistance, "◎" for color difference, "◎" for chromaticity (transparency) or color rendering, and "○" for feel during use (spreadability, comfort).

[0149] (Example 11: Highlight powder)

[0150]

[0151] The details of the above components are the same as those described above except for the components shown below.

[0152] Ester oil-6: "Lisokaster DA-L" (manufactured by Kohler Alcor Industries, trade name, hydrogenated castor oil dimer linoleate), hydroxyl value: 78, viscosity: 118000 mPa·s

[0153] The compatibility of ester oil-6 with light liquid isoparaffin was evaluated in the same manner as above and the result was that the ester oil-6 was insoluble.

[0154] <Preparation method>

[0155] The powder components were mixed by a Henschel mixer, and the oily components were heated and mixed at 60 to 80°C, and stirred in the Henschel mixer to prepare a cosmetic base. Here, the volatile solvents shown in the table were added in a specified amount and mixed to form a slurry. The slurry was filled into a medium-sized pan (metal pan), and a sample of a highlight powder was prepared by suction pressing and drying.

[0156] <Evaluation>

[0157] The obtained highlight powder samples were evaluated in the same manner as above, and the results confirmed that the samples were evaluated as follows: "Impact resistance" was "○", "Color difference" was "◎", "Chroma (transparency) or color rendering" was "◎", and "Feeling of use (extensibility, comfort)" was "◎".

Claims

1. A method for producing a solid powder cosmetic, comprising: A step of preparing a slurry, wherein the slurry comprises a cosmetic base material and a volatile hydrocarbon solvent, wherein the cosmetic base material contains an oily component and a powder component; and The slurry is subjected to suction compression molding. The oil component comprises an ester oil (A) which is insoluble in the hydrocarbon solvent and has a hydroxyl value of 40 to 85, The powder component comprises plate-like powder (B), The mixing ratio of the cosmetic base material to the volatile hydrocarbon solvent is, in terms of mass ratio, cosmetic base material: volatile hydrocarbon solvent = 100:10 to 100:

80. The ester oil (A) comprises at least one ester oil selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer linoleate copolymer, hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer and hydrogenated castor oil dimer linoleate, The hydrocarbon solvent comprises at least one of isoparaffin and isododecane, The plate-like powder (B) includes a plate-like powder coated with a metal oxide, The content of the ester oil (A) in the cosmetic base material is 0.1 to 5% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material. The content of the oily component in the cosmetic base material is 7 to 18% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material. The mass ratio of the ester oil (A) to the total amount of the oily component is 0.1 / 20 to 1 / 1, The mass ratio of the ester oil (A) to the volatile hydrocarbon solvent is 0.1 / 80 to 5 / 10, Based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material, the content of the powder component is 75-95% by mass. The mass ratio of the ester oil (A) to the plate-like powder (B) is 0.1 / 90 to 5 / 75.

2. The method for producing a solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein: The content of the powder component in the cosmetic base material is 80 to 95% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material.

3. The method for producing a solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein: The content of the ester oil (A) in the cosmetic base material is 0.5 to 4% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic base material.

4. The method for producing a solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein: The plate-like powder (B) comprises alumina-based glitter powder or glass-based glitter powder.

Citation Information

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