Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition to keratin materials.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Background Art

[0002] The skin is the body's protective barrier. It protects the body's interior from physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi). The human skin includes the dermis and epidermis. The epidermis is the top layer of the skin, and its surface layer is called the stratum corneum.

[0003] The development of formulations specifically for the care and / or make-up of the skin and / or lips is a long-standing endeavour. Such formulations must exhibit satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as ease of use, and satisfactory properties in terms of sensory properties, such as a feeling of hydration and / or moisturisation after application.

[0004] For various reasons, in particular linked to greater comfort in use (softness, emollient action, etc.), current compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, are generally in the form of emulsions of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, composed of an aqueous dispersed continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of the water-in-oil (W / O) type, composed of an oily dispersed continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.

[0005] Oil-in-water emulsions are one of the most preferred in the cosmetic field because they contain water as the external phase, which gives them a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than water-in-oil emulsions when applied to the skin.

[0006] In skin care routine, cream is an essential step for skin care such as anti-aging, whitening and hydration. Efforts have also been made to introduce active ingredients into oil-in-water emulsions, such as anti-aging agents, hydrating agents and / or skin whitening ingredients, for example, baicalin, Xinfubai, etc.

[0007] Consumers seek creams that have a nourishing feel / effectiveness but a light-refreshing skin finish. Creams with a yogurt-like texture can meet such requirements.

[0008] At present, the yogurt-like texture of some cosmetics is mainly provided by acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer.

[0009] However, for acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer to provide a yogurt-like texture, the pH value of the cosmetic is required to be higher than 6.0, which is not suitable for a variety of active agents that show their efficacy at a lower pH, such as baicalin, which is active at a pH of about 5.5, and cinnamon, which is active at a pH below 5.0. When the pH is adjusted to a lower pH value (pH<6.0), a yogurt texture cannot be obtained from acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer.

[0010] Therefore, there is a need to formulate a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion which has a yogurt-like texture even at a pH below 6.0. Summary of the invention

[0011] The present inventors have discovered that this need can be met by a unique combination of two specific polymers.

[0012] Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising:

[0013] (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and

[0014] (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1 wt. % based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0015] The composition according to the invention may present a yogurt-like texture, even at a pH below 6.0.

[0016] The cosmetic composition according to the invention exhibits a yogurt-like texture, which has good cosmetic properties, in particular moisturizing and / or softening keratin materials without having a greasy feel.

[0017] The cosmetic composition according to the invention generally has a viscosity falling within the range of 40-70 UD (M3), as measured at 25° C. using a ProRheo R180 viscometer from the company ProRheo equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm. A viscosity within the range of 40-70 UD (M3) is desirable for creams.

[0018] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention also exhibits a thick to thin to light feeling progression upon application.

[0019] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising a step of applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes, such as lips, nails. According to the present invention, human skin, in particular facial skin, is most particularly contemplated.

[0021] Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the following detailed description and examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] In the following and unless indicated otherwise, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from to", the limits of a range of values ​​are included in the range.

[0024] Furthermore, the expression “at least one / at least one” used in this specification is equivalent to the expression “one or more / one or more”.

[0025] Throughout this application, the term "comprising / including" should be interpreted as covering all explicitly mentioned features, also covering optional additional unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising / including" also discloses embodiments in which there are no features other than the explicitly mentioned features (i.e., "consisting of...").

[0026] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising:

[0027] (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and

[0028] (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1 wt. % based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0029] Water Phase

[0030] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one continuous aqueous phase.

[0031] The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2 to C8 lower polyols or monools, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0032] the term" Polyols " is to be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include diols, such as butanediol, propylene glycol and isopentyl glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (ie glycerin) and polyethylene glycol.

[0033] The aqueous phase may also contain any of the conventional water-soluble or water-dispersible additives as further exemplified below.

[0034] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0035] oil phase

[0036] The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase as described above.

[0037] The nature of the oily phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is not critical.

[0038] In particular, the oily phase comprises at least one oil.

[0039] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, inorganic or synthetic origin.

[0040] Oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0041] The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oils are cosmetic essential oils that are liquid at room temperature. More specifically, volatile oils have a viscosity between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min (including the endpoint).

[0042] The term "fixed oil" means an oil which remains on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a fixed oil has a carbonyl content strictly below 0.01 mg / cm 2 Evaporation rate of / min.

[0043] To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer of 7 cm diameter placed on a balance located at 0.3 m at a temperature controlled at 25 °C and a relative humidity of 50%. 3 The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, Ref. 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades pointing towards the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer was measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rate was expressed in units of surface area (cm 2 ) and time unit (minutes) expressed as mg of evaporated oil.

[0044] Oils suitable for the present invention are not limited and may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.

[0045] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0046] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil including at least one fluorine atom.

[0047] The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to oils containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0048] The oil may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0049] Preferably, the oil phase comprises at least an oil that is solid at room temperature (about 25° C.).

[0050] Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrocarbonized oils and silicone oils.

[0051] Mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based volatile oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and especially of branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl; C8-C 16 Branched chain esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Isododecane or isohexadecane are preferred.

[0052] As fixed oils, mention may be made of:

[0053] - hydrocarbon-based oils of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for example liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane of synthetic or vegetable origin;

[0054] - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin based on triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths, the latter being linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, in particular especially triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid triglyceride and capric acid / caprylic acid triglyceride; or hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, gourd oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, musk rose oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, corn (corn, wheat, barley, rye) germ oils, avocado oil; esters of fatty acids, in particular of fatty acids having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular caprylic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolinic acid, acid), oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;

[0055] - synthetic esters of the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 To C 15 Alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, caprylate, caprate or ricinoleate of alcohol or polyol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyl esters of aromatic acids and alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate;

[0056] -C8-C 26 Higher fatty acids, such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;

[0057] -C8-C 26 Higher fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;

[0058] - synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon atoms;

[0059] - silicone oils, such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are liquid at ambient temperature, and silicone oils which are optionally substituted with benzene, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, benzhydryl-diphenyl trisiloxane, liquid 2-phenylethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicate, optionally substituted with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, such as alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or terminal to the silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and optionally fluorinated, or having functional groups such as hydroxyl, mercapto and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids or fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkylmethicone copolyols; liquid fluorosilicones; and

[0060] - A mixture thereof.

[0061] In some embodiments, the oil is selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) that are liquid at ambient temperature, and synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0062] Preferably, the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably 3% to 40% by weight and more preferably 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0063] Hydrophilic anionic associative polymer

[0064] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer.

[0065] The hydrophilic anionic associative polymers that can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are water-soluble polymers that are capable of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium.

[0066] Their chemical structure contains a hydrophilic region and a hydrophobic region characterized by at least one fatty chain.

[0067] The hydrophilic anionic associative polymers of the present invention are preferably obtained by copolymerization between 1) and 2):

[0068] 1) at least one linear or branched (C1-C 10 ) alkyl-substituted ethylenically unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers; and

[0069] 2) at least one associative monomer which is an ester of formula (I):

[0070]

[0071] in:

[0072] A represents an ethylenically unsaturated acyclic residue, optionally containing another carboxyl group or a salt thereof, wherein the other carboxyl group may be a linear or branched (C1-C 20 ) alkyl esterification;

[0073] R a Represents a straight or branched chain (C1-C 30 ) alkyl, alkaryl or aralkyl having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched; preferably R a Representative (C1-C 20 ) alkyl, alkylphenyl or phenylalkyl having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched;

[0074] Alk represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkylene group, in particular Alk represents -CH2-CH(R b )–, where R b represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as a methyl group or an ethyl group;

[0075] z is an integer between 0 and 50 (inclusive);

[0076] w is an integer between 0 and 30 (inclusive);

[0077] Provided that (I) contains at least one carboxyl group C(O)OH or C(O)OQ + , where Q + represents a cation selected from alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions or ammonium.

[0078] The polymerization of 1) and 2) has to be understood as the copolymerization between at least one monomer 1) and at least one monomer 2).

[0079] According to an embodiment of the present invention, the copolymer is obtained by polymerization between at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomer of formula (a) and at least one associative monomer of formula (I) or ester of formula (b) as defined above:

[0080]

[0081] in:

[0082] R' a and R' b are the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, preferably R' a and R' brepresents hydrogen atom;

[0083] R' c and R'' c are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, a C(O)OX group or a -alk-C(O)OX group, wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or ammonium, and -alk- represents a (C1-C6) alkylene group, such as a methylene group, preferably R' c and / or R'' c represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0084] R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or a (C1-C6) alkyl group;

[0085] R2 represents a straight chain or branched chain (C6-C 40 ) alkyl, preferably (C 10 -C 30 )alkyl;

[0086] n is an integer between 5 and 100, in particular between 10 and 50, more particularly between 20 and 40, preferably between 20 and 30, such as 25 (inclusive of endpoints);

[0087] Provided that (a) or (b) contains at least one carboxyl group C(O)OH or C(O)OQ + , where Q + represents a cation selected from alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions or ammonium.

[0088] In particular, R' a , R' b represents a hydrogen atom, and R' c and R'' c represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or an alkaline earth metal.

[0089] According to another variant, R' a , R' b and R' c represents a hydrogen atom, and R'' c represents a -alk-C(O)OX group, such as -CH2-C(O)OX, wherein X is as defined above.

[0090] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer comprises units (A) and / or (B):

[0091]

[0092] in:

[0093] R' a, R' b , R' c 、R'' c is as defined above;

[0094] x represents an integer preferably greater than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000;

[0095] y represents an integer preferably greater than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000; and

[0096] x+y represents an integer preferably >200, more preferably between 200 and 20,000.

[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic associative polymers according to the invention have a molecular weight greater than 100,000, preferably between 200,000 and 8,000,000.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment, in formulae (A) and (B), R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal.

[0099] As examples of copolymers (a) / (b) as defined hereinabove, which may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, such as the product commercially available under the trade name Synthalen® W2000 from 3V, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product commercially available under the trade name Acylun™ 28 from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical), acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product commercially available under the trade name Aculyn™ 22 polymer from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical), acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, such as the product commercially available under the trade name Structure 2001 from AkzoNobel, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, such as the product commercially available under the trade name Structure 3001 commercially available from AkzoNobel, acrylates / ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / palmitoleth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmitoleth-25 itaconate copolymer, products such as those commercially available from Sigma-3V under the trade name Polygel W 40, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Among the hydrophilic anionic associative polymers mentioned above, preferred is acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product commercially available under the trade name Acylun™ 28 from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical).

[0101] Preferably, at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.8% to 6% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0102] Cellulose-based thickening polymers

[0103] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer.

[0104] Preferably, the cellulose-based thickening polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from hydroxy (C1-C6) alkyl celluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses), carboxy (C1-C6) alkyl celluloses and mixtures thereof.

[0105] More preferably, the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, methylethylhydroxyethylcellulose, mixed (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl-(C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, and preferably hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0106] In some embodiments, the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxy (C1-C6) alkyl celluloses.

[0107] In one embodiment, the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose.

[0108] Preferably, at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0109] Emulsifying surfactant

[0110] The cosmetic composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant (or emulsifier), preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic emulsifying surfactants.

[0111] As anionic emulsifying surfactants, there may be mentioned stearic acid, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, C 10 -C 30 And especially C 12 -C 20 Metal salts of fatty acids, especially metal stearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] As nonionic emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of esters of polyols and saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylene derivatives, i.e. containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated groups, such as C8-C 24 Glycerides of fatty acids and their oxyalkylene derivatives; C8-C 24 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylene derivatives; C8-C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylene derivatives; and their oxyalkylene derivatives; ethers of fatty alcohols; C8-C 24 C8-C 24 Sugar esters of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Glyceryl esters of fatty acids include in particular glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-glyceride of stearic acid) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or ricinoleyl glyceride, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] As esters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol stearates (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and / or tristearate), in particular polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO (CTFA name: PEG-40 Stearate), polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 EO (CTFA name: PEG-50 Stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 Stearate), and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Mixtures of such surfactants may also be used, such as, for example, the product sold under the name SIMULSOL 165® by the company SEPPIC containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

[0116] As fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Mention may be made, for example, of ethers having from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 ethylene oxide groups, such as those of the CTFA name ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30 and mixtures thereof.

[0117] As examples of sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers, mention may be made of: methyl glucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS® by Degussa Goldschmidt, or sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50® by the company Croda, and sucrose stearate sold under the name RYOTO Sugar Esters S 1570® by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, in particular alkyl polyglycosides (APGs), such as decyl and lauryl glucoside, for example sold under the names Plantaren 2000® and 1200® Plantaren, respectively, by Henkel, cetearyl glucoside mixed with cetearyl alcohol, for example sold under the names Montanov 68® by Seppic, Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and Emulgade® by Henkel. KE3302®, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl, sold under the name Montanov 202® by the company Seppic.

[0118] In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from stearic acid, polyethylene glycol stearate and glyceryl stearate.

[0119] Preferably, the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 10 wt. %, preferably 1.5 to 8 wt. % and more preferably 2 to 5 wt. % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0120] Active ingredients

[0121] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one active ingredient customary in the cosmetic field for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.

[0122] As active ingredients, sunscreens, vitamins, emollients, hydrators, whitening agents, peeling agents and the like may be mentioned.

[0123] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises Shea butter ( Butyrospermum parkii ) (Shea) Butter as an emollient.

[0124] The amount of the active ingredient may be that conventional in the cosmetic art.

[0125] additive

[0126] In a known manner, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants customary in cosmetics or dermatology.

[0127] Examples of additives that may be mentioned include preservatives, fillers, antioxidants, flavors, alkaline agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0128] In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention include one or more preservatives.

[0129] Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerin-containing compounds (e.g., glycerin and / or ethylhexylglycerin and / or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and / or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetic industry and include: salicylic acid, DMDM ​​hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorphenesin, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methylisothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, quaternium-15, stearalkonium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulfite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulfite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, (various) essential oils, lactic acid, and vitamin E (tocopherol).

[0130] In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention include one or more fillers.

[0131] Suitable fillers include, but are not limited to, inorganic or organic origin, natural or synthetic in nature to provide oil absorbing or optical effects. Oil absorbing fillers can impart a matte effect and non-greasy feel on the skin. Optical effect fillers can impart a soft focus / hazy / blurring effect to the skin, provide a more even appearance to the skin, reduce the appearance of imperfections or discoloration on the skin, or reduce the visibility of pores.

[0132] As examples of oil-absorbing extenders, mention may be made of: mica, corn ( Zea may) (Corn) Starch, Magnesium Oxide, Nylon-12, Nylon-66, Cellulose, Polyethylene, Talc, Talc (and) Methicone, Talc (and) Dimethicone, Perlite, Sodium Silicate, Pumice, PTFE, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Rice ( Oryza sativa ) (Rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, modified potato starch, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium starch glycolate.

[0133] As examples of optical effect fillers, mention may be made of bismuth oxychloride, silica silylate, boron nitride, iron oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate (and) iron oxide, potassium sodium aluminum silicate.

[0134] As examples of fillers providing both oil absorption and optical effects, mention may be made of: silica, silica (and) methicone, polysilicone-22, polysilicone-8, polysilicone-11, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, methylsilanol / silicate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and styrene / acrylic copolymer.

[0135] These additives are used in proportions customary in the cosmetic field, for example 0.01% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and are introduced into the aqueous phase or the oily phase of the composition, depending on their nature.

[0136] These additives and their concentrations must be such that they do not alter the desired properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising:

[0138] (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer selected from the group consisting of: acrylates / palmitoleth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / palmitoleth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmitoleth-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1 wt.% to 2 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition;

[0139] (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer selected from hydroxy (C1-C6) alkyl cellulose in an amount ranging from 0.25 wt. % to 2 wt. % of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0140] Methods and uses

[0141] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and can in particular constitute a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, and in particular human skin.

[0142] Therefore, in another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0143] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally has a viscosity falling within the range of 40-70 UD, which is desirable for a cream.

[0144] The viscosity is measured at 25° C. using a ProRheo R180 viscometer from the company ProRheo equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm.

[0145] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a yogurt-like texture.

[0146] The yogurt rheological properties are determined by visually observing whether the tested cosmetic composition is flat and glossy when maintained in a container and whether it has a texture similar to thick yogurt when the cosmetic composition is scooped out with a spoon. If the tested cosmetic composition is flat and glossy when maintained in a container and it has a texture similar to thick yogurt when the cosmetic composition is scooped out with a spoon, the cosmetic composition is considered to have a yogurt-like texture.

[0147] The cosmetic composition formulated according to the present invention also exhibits a thick to thin to light feeling progression upon application.

[0148] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described hereinafter, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.

[0149] Percentages are by weight of active ingredient or actives.

[0150] In the examples hereinafter, the weight percentages are indicated relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Example

[0151] Example 1: Preparation according to Book Inventive and comparative cosmetic compositions

[0152] Cosmetic compositions according to the present invention formulations (present invention) 1-3 and comparative formulations (comparison) 1-2 listed in the following table were prepared:

[0153]

[0154] Preparation process:

[0155] The cosmetic composition listed above was prepared as follows.

[0156] 1. Dissolve phase A (water phase) using a homogenizer and heat to 60°C;

[0157] 2. Heat phase B (oil phase) to 60°C;

[0158] 3. Introduce phase B into phase A and keep homogenizing at 60°C for 10 minutes to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion;

[0159] 4. Add Phase D (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) to the emulsion and homogenize for 10 minutes;

[0160] 5. Replace the homogenizer with a disperser and allow the emulsion to cool to room temperature, keeping stirring;

[0161] 6. Premix Phase E (Silicone), then introduce Phase E with agitation at room temperature; and

[0162] 7. Adjust the pH of the formulation to 5.5 using Phase H.

[0163] Example 2: Evaluation Book Inventive and comparative cosmetic compositions

[0164] The viscosity of the cosmetic compositions according to the inventive formulation and the comparative formulation prepared in Example 1 was measured at 25° C. using a ProRheo R180 viscometer from the company ProRheo equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm.

[0165] After 24 h of preparation, the rheological properties of yogurt are determined by visually observing whether the tested cosmetic composition is flat and glossy when maintained in the container and whether it has a texture similar to thick yogurt when the cosmetic composition is scooped out with a spoon. If the tested cosmetic composition is flat and glossy when maintained in the container, and it has a texture similar to thick yogurt when the cosmetic composition is scooped out with a spoon, the cosmetic composition is considered to have a yogurt-like texture.

[0166] The viscosity and yogurt-like texture properties of cosmetic compositions according to the inventive formulation and comparative formulations are summarized below.

[0167]

[0168] *: The value read 30 seconds after the test starts; **: The value read 10 minutes after the test starts.

[0169] It can be seen that the cosmetic composition according to the comparative formulation did not have a yogurt-like texture and had too low a viscosity, which is undesirable for a cream.

[0170] Meanwhile, the cosmetic composition according to the formulation of the present invention has a yogurt-like texture and has a desired viscosity.

[0171] According to a consumer test involving 20 women aged 20-40, the cosmetic composition formulated according to the present invention exhibits a thick to thin to light feeling process when applied.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount ranging from 0.8% to 3% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. % to 3 wt. % of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (iii) at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from anionic emulsifying surfactants and nonionic emulsifying surfactants; wherein the aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a C2-C8 lower polyol or monohydric alcohol; wherein the oil phase comprises a fixed oil selected from synthetic esters of the formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms; The hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is an acrylic acid (ester) / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer; wherein the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose and a mixture of cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose with hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose and / or hydroxybutyl methyl cellulose; The anionic emulsifying surfactant is selected from stearic acid, C 12 -C 20 Metal salts of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof; The nonionic emulsifying surfactant is selected from C 12 -C 22 Glycerides of fatty acids, C 12 -C 22 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof; and The pH of the cosmetic composition is less than 6.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in said cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein said at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in said cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cellulose-based thickening polymer is cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.25% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 1 wt% to 10 wt% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 1.5 wt% to 8 wt% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 2 wt% to 5 wt% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and 7 to 8, further comprising at least one active ingredient for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-3 and 7-8, wherein the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 30 wt. % to 95 wt. % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 11 . The cosmetic composition according to claim 10 , wherein the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 50 wt % to 90 wt % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 12 . The cosmetic composition according to claim 10 , wherein the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 60 wt % to 90 wt % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-3, 7-8 and 11-12, wherein the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 1 wt. % to 60 wt. % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 14 . The cosmetic composition according to claim 13 , wherein the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 3 wt % to 40 wt % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 15 . The cosmetic composition according to claim 13 , wherein the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 5 wt % to 30 wt % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

16. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the step of applying to keratin materials a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15.

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