A digital clothing pattern making method based on wearing quantity and pattern looseness

Through a digital method based on the amount of clothing and loose fit, combined with the volume data and type of fit, the clothing size is accurately determined, and the problem of clothing not fit and comfort caused by fixed calculated sizes in the prior art is solved. Achieve more efficient clothing design and production.

CN114983072BActive Publication Date: 2024-12-20钱达华
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202210515623.7
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2022-05-11
Publication Date
2024-12-20
Estimated Expiration
2042-05-11

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

The existing clothing structure plate making method uses fixed dimensional formulas, which leads to the production of clothing being unable to fit the human body structure, poor comfort, and prone to errors.

Method used

Using digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothing and loose fit, the size data of relevant parts of the human body are obtained by measuring the body, and the total sleeve value range is determined based on the amount of clothing and loose fitting type. Determine the specific sleeve value and frame structure design, and accurately determine the plate size information of the top and pants.

Benefits of technology

It realizes a more accurate and simple clothing structural design, improves the comfort and production efficiency of clothing, and can better meet the human body structure and wear needs.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing plate making, and discloses a digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothes worn and the amount of pattern looseness, including a plate making method for a top, and the plate making method for a top comprises the following steps: step 100: obtaining the size data of the relevant parts of the human body by measuring the body, the size data at least including the chest circumference, and determining the target pattern and the pattern looseness value corresponding to the target pattern according to the size data; step 200: determining the required total armhole value range according to the pattern looseness value, the total armhole value range is 44%-52% of the chest circumference, and further determining the specific total armhole value according to the amount of clothes worn by the target pattern. The present invention adopts the method of determining the pattern structure design according to the amount of clothes worn by the human body combined with the pattern looseness for the first time, and systematically digitally subdividing the clothing amount ratio, the pattern looseness value, the pattern armhole value range and the collar circumference range of each category of clothing, so that it is more accurate, simple and efficient, and it is also more convenient and easy to understand the basic structural design of clothing.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing plate making, and in particular relates to a digital clothing plate making method based on clothing amount and pattern looseness. Background Art

[0002] As people's living standards continue to improve, the demand for clothing has gradually become more important. Clothing structure pattern making is the process of providing a complete set of paper patterns or samples that meet style requirements, fabric requirements, specifications and dimensions, and process requirements that are conducive to cutting, sewing, and finishing. It is the guarantee for garment processing companies to produce in an organized, planned, step-by-step manner with guaranteed quality and quantity.

[0003] However, the existing clothing structure pattern making methods still have certain defects. For example, most of them are drawn by corresponding size formulas, and the disadvantages of fixed calculation size formulas make it impossible for the produced clothing to fit the human body structure and the size after wearing inner clothes, resulting in poor comfort of the produced clothing and prone to errors in calculation.

[0004] Therefore, a clothing pattern making method that can solve the above problems is needed. Summary of the invention

[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the looseness of the pattern. The clothing plate making method is different from the existing plate making method. The pattern structure design is determined by the amount of clothing worn by the human body combined with the looseness of the pattern, and the relevant parameters can be determined better, more simply and accurately.

[0006] In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0007] A digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the amount of pattern looseness, including a method for making a top, the method comprising the following steps:

[0008] Step 100: obtaining the size data of relevant parts of the human body by measuring the body, the size data at least including the chest circumference, and determining the target pattern and the pattern looseness value corresponding to the target pattern according to the size data;

[0009] Step 200: determining the required total armhole value range according to the looseness value of the pattern, the total armhole value range is 44%-52% of the bust, and further determining the specific total armhole value according to the inner clothing volume of the target pattern;

[0010] Step 300: determining the front armhole value, the back armhole value and the difference between the front and back armholes according to the total armhole value;

[0011] Step 400: Determine the frame structure of the target pattern, the size information of each part of the frame structure, and the chest dart of the pattern;

[0012] Step 500: making a pattern according to the determined size information of the top pattern.

[0013] In a possible implementation, step 200 specifically includes the following steps:

[0014] Step 201: matching a corresponding minimum reference value of the armhole according to the pattern looseness value of the target pattern, wherein the minimum reference value of the armhole is 40%-52% of the bust;

[0015] Step 202: Divide the minimum reference value of the armhole by the finished chest circumference to obtain the minimum armhole ratio, and round off the three decimal places of the minimum armhole ratio to obtain the minimum value percentage of the total armhole value;

[0016] Step 203: according to the minimum value percentage, each increment of (1-2)% is a value percentage, until it increases to the upper limit of 52%, and a value range containing at least one value percentage is obtained;

[0017] Step 204: According to the amount of inner clothing, a suitable value percentage is determined within the obtained value range, and the value percentage is multiplied by the chest circumference to obtain the total armhole value.

[0018] In a possible implementation, in step 201, the target version of the top is divided into tight-fitting type, close-fitting type, fitted type, loose type and loose type;

[0019] Among them, for the tight-fitting type with a looseness value of 0, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 52% of the bust circumference; for the close-fitting type with a looseness value of 5%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 50% of the bust circumference; for the fitted type with a looseness value of 10%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 48% of the bust circumference; for the looser type with a looseness value of 15%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 46% of the bust circumference; for the loose type with a looseness value of 20%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 44% of the bust circumference.

[0020] In a possible implementation, when the top is women's clothing, the pattern has a tight fit with a looseness value of 0, the difference between the front and rear garment lines is chest circumference / 60+1.1, and the armhole formula is 0.503 times the total armhole value; the pattern has a close-fitting type with a looseness value of 5%, the difference between the front and rear garment length lines is chest circumference / 60+1.1, and the armhole formula is 0.503 times the total armhole value; the pattern has a fitted type with a looseness value of 10%, the difference between the front and rear garment lines is chest circumference / 40-0.5, and the armhole formula is 0.504 times the total armhole value; the pattern has a looser type with a looseness value of 15%, the front and rear garment lines are flush, and the armhole formula is 0.504 times the total armhole value; the pattern has a loose sleeve with a looseness value of 20%, the front garment length line is 2.5 cm behind the garment length line, and the armhole formula is 0.5 times the total armhole value.

[0021] In a possible implementation, in step 204, the inner clothing includes one or more of woolen sweaters, sweaters, woolen garments, Nike jackets, cotton coats and down jackets, wherein woolen sweaters, sweaters and woolen garments correspond to one standard value, and cotton coats and down jackets correspond to two standard values, and the inner clothing quantity is the total number of standard values ​​of the inner clothing, and according to the total number of standard values, the percentage of values ​​located in the order of the total number from small to large within the value range is the appropriate percentage of values.

[0022] In a possible implementation, in step 500, the target pattern for pattern making is a women's top, and the method for making two sleeves of the women's top includes:

[0023] The frame structure of the close-fitting and fitted types is bust / 2+2cm, and the frame structure of the loose type is bust / 2+1.5cm. When the percentage of the sleeve volume of the body to the bust is the same for these three types, the percentage of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve fat to the bust is the same. When the sleeve volume accounts for 52% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 35% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the sleeve volume accounts for 50% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 34% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the sleeve volume accounts for 48% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 33% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust.

[0024] The frame structure of the loose type is bust / 2. When the armhole accounts for 50% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 35% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the armhole accounts for 48% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 34% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the armhole accounts for 46% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 33% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust.

[0025] Among them, the sleeve cap depth changes with the different chest circumference ratios applied to the armhole. The front sleeve line is naturally generated by the intersection of the front sleeve cap oblique line and the sleeve fat line. The back sleeve line is made according to the pattern frame structure. The close-fitting and fitted frame is chest circumference / 2+2cm, and the back sleeve volume is 0. The looser frame is chest circumference / 2+1.5cm, and the back sleeve volume is 1cm. The loose frame is chest circumference / 2, and the back sleeve volume is 2cm.

[0026] In a possible implementation, in step 500, the target version is a top with a round neckline, and the method for making the round neckline includes a neckline making method and a pullover crotch length making method:

[0027] Neckline making method: make the back neckline first, divide the neckline length by 5, measure from the back neckline straight line to the back length line to adjust the back neckline curve, measure the back neckline width from the front center to the back -0.3 is the front neckline width, measure from the front neckline width straight line to the front center line and divide the neckline length by 3.7-0.1, draw a curve at 2 / 5 of the diagonal line as the front neckline line;

[0028] The correct way to measure the length of the fork of a pullover: the length of the front neckline slit is measured from the front collar shoulder point in a straight line according to the head circumference / 2+1cm minus the length of the back neckline arc to the front center line, which is the fork length of the front neckline. The length of the back neckline slit is measured from the back collar shoulder point in a straight line according to the head circumference / 2+1cm minus the length of the front neckline arc to the back center line, which is the fork length of the back neckline.

[0029] In a possible implementation, step 200 further includes a method for calculating the circumference finished value of the target version, the method comprising the following steps:

[0030] Step 211: determining the number of inner garments and the types of inner and outer garments required for the garment to be pattern-made, and calculating the girth of each garment according to the number of layers of the garment and the corresponding girth ratio;

[0031] Step 212: multiply the sum of the circumferences of each piece of clothing by the sum of the looseness and thickness of the target pattern to obtain the circumference of the target pattern;

[0032] Step 213: Add the sum of the chest circumference and the circumference of each piece of clothing to the circumference of the target pattern to obtain the circumference finished product value of the target pattern of the garment to be made.

[0033] In a possible implementation, the digital clothing pattern making method also includes a trousers pattern making method, and the trousers pattern making method includes the following steps:

[0034] Step 600: obtaining the size data of relevant parts of the human body by measuring the body, the size data at least including height, hip circumference and waist circumference, and determining the target version, which is divided into tight type, fitted type and loose type;

[0035] Step 700: Determine the pattern looseness, wave length value, and gantry width, and then make the plate.

[0036] In a possible implementation, in step 700, when the target version is a tight fit, the trouser frame width is 0.63 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) 5 + 14 cm, the cage width is 13% of the hip circumference, the wave length formula is 0.49 times the wave length - 1.1 cm, the back crotch drops 1 cm, the back seam is inclined 13 degrees inward to the waist opening, the hip circumference is loose 2%, the front waist opening drops 1.5 cm, the waist is slid in 1.5 cm, and the back waist is raised 3 cm;

[0037] When the target version is a fitted type, the trouser frame width is 0.64 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) / 5 + 17cm, the cage width is 14% of the hip circumference, the wave length formula is (wave length - waist width 7cm) 0.5-0.5cm, the back crotch drops 1cm, the back seam is inclined 11.5 degrees inward to the waist opening, the hip circumference is loose 9%, the front waist opening drops 2cm, withdraws 1cm, and the back waist is raised 2.5cm;

[0038] When the target version is a loose body type, the trouser frame width is 0.66 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) / 5 + 20cm, the cage width is 16% of the hip circumference, the wave length formula is (wave length - waist width 7cm) 0.54-3.4cm, the back crotch drops 1cm, the back seam is slanted 10 degrees inward to the waist, the hip circumference is 13% loose, the front waist opening is 0.5cm inward, and the back waist is raised 2.5cm.

[0039] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0040] The digital clothing pattern making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the looseness of the pattern of the present invention adds the looseness value according to different pattern requirements. In terms of body measurement and quantity release, for the first time, the pattern structure design is determined according to the amount of clothing worn by the human body combined with the looseness of the pattern, and the clothing amount ratio, pattern looseness value, pattern armhole value range and collar circumference range of each category of clothing are systematically subdivided into numbers. This is more accurate, simple and efficient, and can also make it easier and more convenient to understand the basic structural design of clothing. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0041] Figure 1 Schematic diagram of the principle of making a two-piece sleeve pattern for a women's top with a fitted sleeve and a looser sleeve;

[0042] Figure 2 A schematic diagram of the principle of making two-piece sleeves with different sleeve types for men's tops;

[0043] Figure 3 The calibration principle of the calibration detection method is shown in Figure 2. Figure 1 ;

[0044] Figure 4 The calibration principle of the calibration detection method is shown in Figure 2. Figure 2 ;

[0045] Figure 5 It is a schematic diagram of the pattern making principle of the front piece and the back piece of the top;

[0046] Figure 6 It is a schematic diagram of the plate making principle of a tight-fitting top in specific embodiment 1;

[0047] Figure 7 It is a schematic diagram of the plate making principle of a close-fitting top in specific embodiment 2;

[0048] Figure 8Schematic diagram of the plate making principle of a fitted top in specific embodiment 3;

[0049] Fig. 9 Schematic diagram of the plate making principle of a loose-fitting top in specific embodiment 4;

[0050] Fig.10 It is a schematic diagram of the plate making principle of the loose-fitting top of the specific embodiment 5;

[0051] Fig.11 It is a schematic diagram of the plate-making principle of the loose-fitting pants of the specific embodiment 6;

[0052] Fig.12 Schematic diagram of the plate-making principle of the fitted pants of specific embodiment 6;

[0053] Fig.13 It is a schematic diagram of the plate-making principle of low-waist tights in specific embodiment 7;

[0054] Fig.14 Schematic diagram of the pattern making principle of clothing collars. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0055] In order to make the purpose, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Generally, the components of the embodiments of the present invention described and shown in the drawings here can be arranged and designed in various different configurations.

[0056] The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.

[0057] The embodiment of the present application provides a digital clothing pattern making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the amount of pattern looseness, including a pattern making method for a top, the pattern making method for the top comprising the following steps:

[0058] Step 100: obtaining the size data of relevant parts of the human body by measuring the body, the size data at least including the chest circumference, and determining the target pattern and the pattern looseness value corresponding to the target pattern according to the size data;

[0059] Step 200: determining the required total armhole value range according to the looseness value of the pattern, the total armhole value range is 44%-52% of the bust, and further determining the specific total armhole value according to the inner clothing volume of the target pattern;

[0060] Step 300: determining the front armhole value, the back armhole value and the difference between the front and back armholes according to the total armhole value;

[0061] Step 400: Determine the frame structure of the target pattern, the size information of each part of the frame structure, and the chest dart of the pattern;

[0062] Step 500: making a pattern according to the determined size information of the top pattern.

[0063] Furthermore, step 200 specifically includes the following steps:

[0064] Step 201: matching a corresponding minimum reference value of the armhole according to the pattern looseness value of the target pattern, wherein the minimum reference value of the armhole is 40%-52% of the bust;

[0065] Step 202: Divide the minimum reference value of the armhole by the finished chest circumference to obtain the minimum armhole ratio, and round off the three decimal places of the minimum armhole ratio to obtain the minimum value percentage of the total armhole value;

[0066] Step 203: according to the minimum value percentage, each increment of 2% is a value percentage, until it increases to the upper limit of 52%, and a value range containing at least one value percentage is obtained;

[0067] Step 204: According to the amount of inner clothing, a suitable value percentage is determined within the obtained value range, and the value percentage is multiplied by the chest circumference to obtain the total armhole value.

[0068] In clothing structure design, when the chest circumference is 0, the net chest circumference relaxation should reach 52% to meet the actual wearing needs. The total armhole value of the body should be set according to the requirements of the clothing. The modeling should pre-set the minimum armhole value corresponding to the looseness of the version, that is, the minimum reference value of the armhole, and then further determine the total armhole value based on the chest circumference and the amount of inner clothing, so that the total armhole value can be more accurate.

[0069] Specifically, in step 201, the target version of the top is divided into tight-fitting, close-fitting, fitted, looser and loose types; among them, for the tight-fitting type with a version looseness value of 0, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 52% of the bust; for the close-fitting type with a version looseness value of 5%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 50% of the bust; for the fitted type with a version looseness value of 10%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 48% of the bust; for the loose type with a version looseness value of 15%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 46% of the bust; for the loose type with a version looseness value of 20%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 44% of the bust.

[0070] Each version has a corresponding minimum reference value for the armhole, and then the total armhole value suitable for the target version can be calculated according to the specific steps of step 200.

[0071] At the same time, the determination of the total armhole value also needs to be combined with the amount of inner clothing. In step 204, the inner clothing includes one or more of woolen sweaters, sweaters, woolen clothing, nylon, cotton clothes and down jackets, wherein the woolen sweaters, sweaters and woolen clothing correspond to one standard value, and the cotton clothes and down jackets correspond to two standard values. The inner clothing amount is the total number of standard values ​​of the inner clothing, and according to the total number of standard values ​​within the value range, the percentage of values ​​located in the order of the total number from small to large is the appropriate percentage of values. Of course, the inner clothing may also include other types of clothing, without limitation.

[0072] The following is an example of how to determine the total armhole value:

[0073] The chest circumference is 84cm. First, determine the range of the total armhole value, starting from the minimum reference value of 52% armhole of the chest circumference of 84cm with a loose amount of 0 version, 84×0.52=43.7, and divide the starting armhole value 43.7 by the finished chest circumference of 98 to get the minimum armhole ratio, 43.7 / 98=0.45, and the third digit after the decimal point is rounded off to 45%, and then each increase of 2% is a percentage. The total armhole value percentage range of the finished chest circumference of 98 is 45%, 47%, 49%, 51%, and 52%. After obtaining the range, determine the appropriate percentage based on the amount of inner clothing, one armhole value for sweaters, two armhole values ​​for down, and add another armhole value, so the fourth armhole value of 51% is appropriate.

[0074] In the specific implementation process, in order to facilitate the use of the method and save calculations, the method is made into a digital table, see Table 1.

[0075] Table 1 Relationship between pattern looseness and total armhole value

[0076]

[0077]

[0078] Combined with Table 1, within the total armhole value range, the first column is the first armhole value, the second column is the second armhole value, and so on; in general, the use of the armhole value is: shirts, cheongsams, dresses, formal gowns, and underwear use the first minimum armhole value, such as elastic material for underwear can be reduced by one armhole value; spring and autumn short clothes and jackets use the second largest armhole value; spring and autumn ordinary clothes, casual clothes, woolen clothes, leather suede, and double-faced clothes can wear a sweater inside, use the third loose armhole value; down jackets and cotton-padded jackets, wear a sweater inside, and use the fourth armhole value after counting the thickness of the cotton-padded jacket itself. The above third and fourth armhole values ​​can be worn with a sweater inside, and each additional sweater adds an armhole value. Nikes and winter coats use the fifth armhole value. In this way, the total armhole value can be determined more quickly, conveniently, and more accurately. It should be noted that the minimum reference value of the armhole obtained by calculation is basically consistent with that listed in the table, with the difference within ±1% and can be ignored, so both can be selected for use according to specific circumstances.

[0079] In an embodiment of the present application, the front and rear garment line difference and armhole formulas of different versions of loose patterns are different. When the top is women's clothing, the version has a tight-fitting looseness value of 0, the front and rear garment line difference is chest circumference / 60+1.1, and the armhole formula is 0.503 times the total armhole value; the version has a close-fitting looseness value of 5%, the front and rear garment length line difference is chest circumference / 60+1.1, and the armhole formula is 0.503 times the total armhole value; the version has a fitted looseness value of 10%, the front and rear garment line difference is chest circumference / 40-0.5, and the armhole formula is 0.504 times the total armhole value; the version has a looser looseness value of 15%, the front and rear garment lines are flush, and the armhole formula is 0.504 times the total armhole value; the version has a loose sleeve with a looseness value of 20%, the front garment length line is 2.5 cm behind the garment length line, and the armhole formula is 0.5 times the total armhole value.

[0080] Different patterns have different looseness values, and the minimum armhole values ​​that fit the human body are also different. The waist height should also be adjusted as the pattern changes. The back waist height of the tight-fitting type is 36cm, the back waist height of the fitted type is 37cm, the back waist height of the loose type is 38cm, and the back waist height of the loose type is 39cm. In the application of the basic pattern, the armhole used should also change as the amount of clothing increases. For example: this top coat needs to be worn with a sweater. The single top coat uses the second armhole value. The sweater adds one armhole value, and the top coat uses the third armhole value.

[0081] The parameter data of the above women's clothing pattern making can be converted into the following table, which is Table 2:

[0082] Table 2 Women's basic pattern making clothing digital table

[0083]

[0084]

[0085] In the specific implementation process, combined with Figure 5 As shown, the back piece should be made first when making the pattern of the top. The chest circumference is measured upward from the back length line and divided by 60+1.1 to get the front length line. B / 60+1.1 is used to determine the difference between the front and back armholes. Draw a parallel line between the front and back shoulder points to intersect the back width line. Measure the armhole value from the intersection of the back width line and multiply it by 0.503 to the chest width line. The intersection point is the front chest circumference line of the dart center line. On the chest circumference line, 1 / 2 of the chest width is biased to the side by 0.5 to make the chest dart. With the chest circumference line as the center, make half darts upward and downward. The lower dart mouth intersects with the structural center line to make a parallel line to the back chest circumference. Then draw the front and back armhole arcs according to the picture.

[0086] Further, combined with Figure 1 As shown, in step 500, the target pattern for pattern making is a women's top, and the method for making two sleeves of the women's top includes:

[0087] The frame structure of the close-fitting and fitted types is bust / 2+2cm, and the frame structure of the loose type is bust / 2+1.5cm. When the percentage of the sleeve volume of the body to the bust is the same for these three types, the percentage of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve fat to the bust is the same. When the sleeve volume accounts for 52% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 35% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the sleeve volume accounts for 50% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 34% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the sleeve volume accounts for 48% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 33% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust.

[0088] The frame structure of the loose type is bust / 2. When the armhole accounts for 50% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 35% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the armhole accounts for 48% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 34% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the armhole accounts for 46% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 33% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust.

[0089] Among them, the sleeve cap depth changes with the different chest circumference ratios applied to the armhole. The front sleeve line is naturally generated by the intersection of the front sleeve cap oblique line and the sleeve fat line. The back sleeve line is made according to the pattern frame structure. The close-fitting and fitted frame is chest circumference / 2+2cm, and the back sleeve volume is 0. The looser frame is chest circumference / 2+1.5cm, and the back sleeve volume is 1cm. The loose frame is chest circumference / 2, and the back sleeve volume is 2cm.

[0090] In order to facilitate better understanding and application, the above formula is summarized in the form of a table, see Table 3.

[0091] Table 3 Reference table of women's two-piece sleeves and clothing patterns for AH50% sleeve width oblique line

[0092]

[0093]

[0094] Combined with Table 3, it can be explained that the sleeves should be matched according to the pattern. The biased sleeve line is 1.3cm inward, and the back sleeve cap is 2 degrees inward. All of the above are genuine sleeve pattern making methods without hanging lines. Modern people have higher and higher requirements for the beauty and comfort of the two-piece sleeve pattern. The sleeve cap is required to be comfortable, full and not tight. The sleeve type of clothing exhibition purchase plays a big role. A deep understanding of different shapes of armholes can match high-quality and beautiful sleeves. The narrower the armhole width, the larger the sleeve outer seam. The body structure frame + 2cm or more of the margin is not suitable for biased sleeves. According to the armhole ratio and the frame, choose the appropriate sleeve cap formula. When it comes to down jackets and cotton-padded jackets, the sleeve cap depth is reduced by three percentage points. AH0.35 is changed to AH0.32, AH0.34 is changed to AH0.31, and so on. The sleeve intake of down jackets, cotton-padded jackets, and double-faced woolen clothes should be reduced, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is AH49%.

[0095] Please refer to Figure 3 and Figure 4 As shown, in the process of making the two-piece sleeves of the upper garment, proofreading is usually required. The embodiment of the present application proposes a sleeve proofreading detection method for this purpose, which includes the following methods: when the proofreading sleeve has two pieces, the front and the back, the front piece of the sleeve cage side seams is joined together to be correct. When the front piece is correct, the side seams cannot have darts under the ribs; when the proofreading sleeve has three pieces, the front, the back and the side, the side piece is correct (such as a suit); when the proofreading sleeve has a four-piece body and has front and back pieces, front and back side pieces, the front side piece is correct; before the proofreading sleeve, the cuff of the small sleeve is rotated forward 15 degrees, and then the front side of the small sleeve is spliced ​​with the front side of the large sleeve, the knife edge of the small sleeve is aligned, and the bottom arc of the small sleeve at the docking position of the upper body is adjusted to match the bottom arc of the sleeve cage. This sleeve proofreading method is suitable for all men's and women's two-piece sleeves of different sizes.

[0096] Please refer to Figure 2As shown, in the embodiment of the present application, there are four basic versions of men's clothing, namely tight-fitting, fitted, close-fitting and loose-fitting. Specifically, for the tight-fitting type with a 5% chest circumference looseness value, the total armhole value range is 50% and 52% of the chest circumference, the front length line is 0.8 cm higher than the back collar depth, the armhole formula is 0.495 times the total armhole value, the back width is 0.19+0.2 of the chest circumference, and the chest width is the back width-0.4. The total armhole value range of the close-fitting type with a 10% chest circumference looseness value (i.e., the version looseness value) is 48%, 50%, and 52% of the chest circumference, the front length line is 0.8 cm higher than the back collar depth, and the armhole formula is 0.495 of the total armhole value; The width is 0.19+0.2 of the chest circumference, the chest width is back width-0.4, and the fitted type with 15% chest circumference looseness, the total armhole value range is 46%, 48%, 50%, and 52% of the chest circumference; the front length is level with the back collar depth, the armhole formula is 0.497 times the total armhole value, the back width is 0.185+0.7 of the chest circumference, and the chest width is back width-1.4, and the loose type with 20% chest circumference looseness, the total armhole value range is 44%, 46%, 48%, and 50% of the chest circumference, the front length is 1cm lower than the back collar depth, the armhole formula is 0.503 times the total armhole value, the back width is 0.18+1.2cm of the chest circumference, and the chest width is 2.4cm of the back width.

[0097] Use the pattern formula to calculate the total armhole value that we determined first. The three basic tight-fitting types of men's clothing account for 12% of the armhole width, the fitted type accounts for 13%, and the loose type accounts for 14%. Tops with different chest armhole widths have different pattern looseness and different minimum starting percentages of the armhole value. When making a pattern, the appropriate armhole value should be selected in combination with the amount of clothing. The shoulder slope of men's clothing is 3 degrees larger than that of women's clothing on average.

[0098] The above-mentioned men's clothing plate making parameter data can be converted into the following table, which is Table 4:

[0099] Table 4 Men's Basic Pattern Clothing Digital Table

[0100] Looseness value Armhole width Armhole depth Front shoulder slant Back shoulder tilt Armhole width Back width Front chest width Fits body 5%-10% 12% AH0.495 26.5 degrees 22 degrees B12% B0.19+0.2 B0.19-0.2 Fit 15% 13% AH0.497 26.5 degrees 22 degrees B13% B0.185+0.7 B0.185-0.7 Loose 20% 14% AH0.503 23.5 degrees 21 degrees B14% B0.18+1.2 B0.18-1.2

[0101] Furthermore, the two-piece sleeve method of men's clothing is matched with the frame structure of the version. The two-piece sleeve is matched with the garment piece according to the frame structure and the percentage of the armhole of the garment piece to the chest circumference. The large and small sleeves are generally used to match the garment piece with the second or higher armhole value. The frame of the tight-fitting and close-fitting types is chest circumference / 2, and the armhole width is 12% of the chest circumference. When the total armhole measurement accounts for 52% of the chest circumference, the sleeve cap depth is 36% of the chest circumference, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the chest circumference; when the total armhole measurement accounts for 50% of the chest circumference, the sleeve cap depth is 35% of the chest circumference, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the chest circumference; when the total armhole measurement accounts for 48% of the chest circumference, the sleeve cap depth is 34% of the chest circumference, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the chest circumference. The frame of the fitted type is chest circumference / 2, and the armhole width is 13% of the chest circumference; the total armhole measurement accounts for When the total armhole measurement accounts for 50% of the bust measurement, the sleeve cap depth is 35% of the bust measurement, and the slant line of the sleeve excess is 50% of the bust measurement; when the total armhole measurement accounts for 50% of the bust measurement, the sleeve cap depth is 34% of the bust measurement, and the slant line of the sleeve excess is 50% of the bust measurement; when the total armhole measurement accounts for 48% of the bust measurement, the sleeve cap depth is 33% of the bust measurement, and the slant line of the sleeve excess is 50% of the bust measurement, the loose frame is bust / 2, the armhole width is 149% of the bust measurement, when the armhole measurement accounts for 50% of the bust measurement, the sleeve cap depth is 33% of the bust measurement, and the slant line of the sleeve excess is 50% of the bust measurement, when the armhole measurement accounts for 48% of the bust measurement, the sleeve cap depth is 32% of the bust measurement, and the slant line of the sleeve excess is 50% of the bust measurement, when the armhole measurement accounts for 46% of the bust measurement, the sleeve cap depth is 31% of the bust measurement, and the slant line of the sleeve excess is 50% of the bust measurement The sleeve cap depth changes with the different ratios of armhole to bust. The front sleeve line is naturally generated by the intersection of the front sleeve cap oblique line and the sleeve fat line. The back sleeve line is made according to the pattern frame structure to create tight and close-fitting types. The frame is bust / 2, the armhole width is narrower and accounts for 12% of the bust, and the back sleeve measurement is 2cm. The fitted frame is bust / 2, the armhole width accounts for 13% of the bust, and the back sleeve measurement is 1cm. The loose frame is bust / 2, the armhole width accounts for 14% of the bust, and the back sleeve measurement is 0. When the armhole width accounts for more than 14% of the bust, the sleeve is no longer suitable for the back sleeve measurement.

[0102] In order to facilitate understanding and application, the above formula is summarized in the form of a table, see Table 5.

[0103] Table 5 AH50% sleeve fat oblique line men's two-piece sleeves and clothing pattern adaptation table

[0104]

[0105] Combined with Table 5, it can be explained that the sleeves should be matched according to the pattern. The biased sleeve line is 1.3cm inward, and the back sleeve cap is 2 degrees inward. The above is the genuine sleeve pattern without hanging pattern. Modern people have higher and higher requirements for the beauty and comfort of the sleeve pattern of the two-piece sleeve pattern. The sleeve cap is required to be comfortable, full and not tight. The sleeve pattern of the clothing exhibition plays a big role. The narrower the sleeve cage width, the larger the sleeve outer seam. The 14% sleeve cage width of the body is not suitable for biased sleeves. When it comes to down jackets and cotton-padded jackets, the sleeve cap depth is reduced by three percentage points. AH0.35 is changed to AH0.32, AH0.34 is changed to AH0.31, and so on. The sleeve intake of down jackets, cotton-padded jackets, and double-faced woolen cloth should be reduced, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is AH49%.

[0106] In an embodiment of the present application, in step 500, the target version is a top with a round neckline, and the method for making the round neckline includes a neckline making method and a pullover crotch length making method:

[0107] Neckline making method: make the back neckline first, divide the collar length by 5, measure from the middle of the back collar to the back length line to adjust the back neckline curve, measure the back neckline width from the front center to the back -0.3 is the front collar width, measure from the front collar width to the front center line and divide the collar length by 3.7-0.1, draw a curve at 2 / 5 of the diagonal line as the front neckline; this method is suitable for back collars with a depth of 2cm to 3.5cm and a collar length of 38cm to 64cm.

[0108] The correct way to measure the length of the fork of a pullover: the length of the front neckline slit is measured from the front collar shoulder point in a straight line according to the head circumference / 2+1cm minus the length of the back neckline arc to the front center line, which is the fork length of the front neckline. The length of the back neckline slit is measured from the back collar shoulder point in a straight line according to the head circumference / 2+1cm minus the length of the front neckline arc to the back center line, which is the fork length of the back neckline.

[0109] Regarding the pattern making of different types of clothing, the length of the collar of summer clothing is generally 38-42cm, the back collar of summer clothing is 2cm deep and the back seat of the lapel is 1-3cm wide, the length of the collar of spring and autumn clothing is generally 44-48cm, the back collar of spring and autumn clothing is 2.3cm deep and the back seat of the lapel is 3-4cm wide, the length of the collar of winter clothing is generally 50-54cm, the length of the collar of cotton-padded clothes is 56-60cm, the back collar of winter clothing is 2.7cm deep and the back seat of the lapel is 4-5cm wide, the length of the collar of men's winter coat is generally 60-64cm, the back collar of men's winter coat is 3.5cm deep and the back seat of the lapel is 5-6cm wide. Fig.14 As shown, first make the back neckline, divide the neckline length by 5, measure from A to B, and adjust the back neckline curve according to the figure. The front neckline width is measured from C to D according to the back neckline width - 0.3, and from D to E, divide the neckline length by 3.7-0.1, and adjust the front neckline curve at 2 / 5 of the diagonal line according to the figure. This method is suitable for all round necklines, regardless of the length of the collar, the depth of the back collar, and the number of splits of the front neckline centerline. This method is more accurate and practical, and reduces many neckline formulas.

[0110] In an embodiment of the application, step 200 also includes a method for calculating the circumference finished value of the target version, the method comprising the following steps:

[0111] Step 211: determining the number of inner garments and the types of inner and outer garments required for the garment to be pattern-made, and calculating the girth of each garment according to the number of layers of the garment and the corresponding girth ratio;

[0112] Step 212: multiply the sum of the circumferences of each piece of clothing by the sum of the looseness and thickness of the target pattern to obtain the circumference of the target pattern;

[0113] Step 213: Add the sum of the chest circumference and the circumference of each piece of clothing to the circumference of the target pattern to obtain the circumference finished product value of the target pattern of the garment to be made.

[0114] Each different type of clothing has a different circumference ratio. For ease of understanding, let's take an example. For example, if you take a close-fitting version of women's clothing with a net chest circumference of 88cm, and wear a sweater (circumference ratio of 4%) and a vest (circumference ratio of 5%) inside, the circumference of the first inner layer is 88*0.04=3.25, the circumference of the second inner layer is (88+3.52)*0.05=4.58, and the circumference of the third inner layer is (88+3.52+4.58)*0.115=11, where 0.115 is the close-fitting looseness value 0.045 + the thickness of the down jacket 0.07, then the total circumference is 88+3.52+4.58+11=107, and 107cm is the chest circumference of the down jacket surface, which is the finished circumference value.

[0115] The length of sweaters and vests for winter tops is below the waistline and not below the hipline. The waist and hip measurements of sweaters or cotton pants have a certain percentage. When making winter tops, the waist and hip measurements must be calculated clearly. Winter clothing has a large overlap of waist and hips. For example, if sweaters are worn on the bottom, the waist and hips must be calculated and tested for fit according to the amount of clothing when we make the pattern for the top. The hips must have at least 5% looseness. No matter how many clothes you wear, the clothing measurements must be calculated in order from the inside to the outside to accurately calculate the finished circumference value. For example, the circumference of a single outer coat accounts for 3%, and a single piece is not measured in the outermost layer; the circumference of sweaters and sweaters accounts for 4%; the circumference of vests accounts for 5%; the circumference of woolen coats accounts for 6%, and the woolen material accounts for half of the outermost layer; if the cotton lining of woolen material increases by 4%, the wool lining increases by 5%; the circumference of down jackets and cotton coats accounts for 7%; the circumference of cotton pants and plush pants accounts for 7%; the circumference of Nike jackets accounts for 8%.

[0116] For ease of understanding and reference during use, the net measurements of chest, waist and hip circumference of the human body can be found in Table 5.

[0117] Table 5 Human chest, waist and hip net size plus reference table

[0118]

[0119]

[0120] In an embodiment of the present application, the digital clothing pattern making method also includes a trousers pattern making method, and the trousers pattern making method includes the following steps:

[0121] Step 600: obtaining the size data of relevant parts of the human body by measuring the body, the size data at least including height, hip circumference and waist circumference, and determining the target version, which is divided into tight type, fitted type and loose type;

[0122] Step 700: Determine the pattern looseness, wave length value, and gantry width, and then make the plate.

[0123] Further, combined with Figure 11-13 As shown, in step 700, when the target version is a tight fit, the trouser frame width is 0.63 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) 5 + 14 cm, the cage width is 13% of the hip circumference, the wave length formula is 0.49 times the wave length - 1.1 cm, the back crotch drops 1 cm, the back seam is inclined 13 degrees inward to the waist opening, the hip circumference is loose 2%, the front waist opening drops 1.5 cm, the waist is slid in 1.5 cm, and the back waist is raised 3 cm;

[0124] When the target version is a fitted type, the trouser frame width is 0.64 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) / 5 + 17cm, the cage width is 14% of the hip circumference, the wave length formula is (wave length - waist width 7cm) 0.5-0.5cm, the back crotch drops 1cm, the back seam is inclined 11.5 degrees inward to the waist opening, the hip circumference is loose 9%, the front waist opening drops 2cm, withdraws 1cm, and the back waist is raised 2.5cm;

[0125] When the target version is a loose body type, the trouser frame width is 0.66 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) / 5 + 20cm, the cage width is 16% of the hip circumference, the wave length formula is (wave length - waist width 7cm) 0.54-3.4cm, the back crotch drops 1cm, the back seam is slanted 10 degrees inward to the waist, the hip circumference is 13% loose, the front waist opening is 0.5cm inward, and the back waist is raised 2.5cm. Specific embodiment 1:

[0127] Combination Figure 6As shown, this specific embodiment is a tight-fitting top 160 / 84A (relaxation 2.5% - frame B / 2+2 - armhole B52%), and its relevant data are: chest circumference B84, back shoulder 15:5.2, 19 degrees, shoulder width S36, front shoulder 15:6, 22 degrees, collar N34.5+N10%=38, the middle line of the front chest width is biased to the side by 0.5, the waist circumference W68 is synchronized with the net chest-waist difference, the front chest convexity is 15 degrees 15:4, the hip 88 is synchronized with the net chest-hip difference, the back width 0.195B, the chest width 0.185, the waist length 36cm, and the frame B / 2+2.

[0128] Implementation instructions: For tight-fitting types, the looseness of the bust is about 0, and the 0 loose bust is the starting armhole value. The front and back armhole values ​​are equal. The armhole value for tight-fitting types is B52%, the armhole value AH=43.7, the armhole depth AH0.503, the armhole depth=43.7x0.503=22. The length of the back garment is measured from the bust / 60+1.1, which is the length of the front garment, 84 / 60+1.1=2.5. Specific embodiment 2:

[0130] Combination Figure 7 As shown, this specific embodiment is a close-fitting top 160 / 84A (relaxation 5% - frame B / 2+2 - AH select B52%), and its relevant data are: chest circumference B84+B5%=88, back shoulder 15:5.2, 19 degrees, shoulder width S37, front shoulder 15:6, 22 degrees, collar N34.5+N10%=38, front chest width center line deviates to the side by 0.5, waist circumference W68 net chest-waist difference is synchronized, front chest convexity 15 degrees is 15:4, hip 88 net chest-hip difference is synchronized, back width 0.195B, chest width 0.185, waist length 36cm, frame B / 2+2.

[0131] Implementation instructions: The looseness of the chest circumference of a close-fitting style is about 5%, and the front and back armhole values ​​are equal. There are two types of close-fitting armhole values: B50% and B52%. The armhole value AH=88x0.52=45.8, and the armhole depth AH0.503. The armhole depth=45.8x0.503=23. Measure the chest circumference / 60+1.1 from the back length line upwards to get the front length line, 88 / 60+1.12.6. Specific embodiment 3:

[0133] Combination Figure 8As shown, this specific embodiment is a fitted top 160 / 84 (fit 10% - frame B / 2+2 - AH value B50%), and its relevant data are: chest circumference B84+B10%=92, back shoulder 15:5, 18.5 degrees, shoulder width S38, front shoulder 15:6, 22 degrees, collar N34.5+N10%=38, front chest width center line deviates to the side by 0.5, waist circumference W68 net chest-waist difference is synchronized, front chest convexity 13 degrees is 15:3.5, hip 88 net chest-hip difference is synchronized, back width 0.195B, chest width 0.185, waist length 37cm, frame B / 2+2.

[0134] Implementation instructions: The fitted chest circumference is 10% loose, the back armhole value is > the front armhole value by 0.4-0.5cm, the fitted armhole value is B48%, B50%, B52%, the armhole value AH=92x0.5=46, the armhole depth AH0.504, the armhole depth=46x0.504=23.2, the back length line is measured upward from the chest circumference / 40-0.5 as the front length line, 92 / 40-0.5=1.8. Specific embodiment 4:

[0136] Combination Fig. 9 As shown, this specific embodiment is a looser top 160 / 84 (relaxation 15% - frame B / 2+1.5 - AH select B48%), and its relevant data are: chest circumference B84+B15%=96.6, back shoulder 15:5.5, 20 degrees, shoulder width S39, front shoulder 15:6, 22 degrees, collar N34.5+N10%=38, front chest width middle line deviates to the side by 0.5, waist circumference W68 net chest-waist difference is reduced by 2cm, front chest convexity 9.4 degrees is 15:2.5, hip 88 net chest-hip difference is reduced by 2cm, back width 0.195B chest, width 0.185, waist length 38cm, frame B / 2+1.5, the front and back clothing length lines are flush, and the chest dart is made below 10 degrees.

[0137] Implementation instructions: For the looser type, the chest circumference is 15% looser, the back armhole value is 1cm higher than the front armhole value, the looser type armhole values ​​are B46%, B48%, B50%, and B52%, and the selected armhole value is B48% = 96.6x0.48 = 46.4., the armhole depth is AH0.504., and the armhole depth is 46.4x0.504 = 23.4. Specific embodiment 5:

[0139] Combination Fig.10As shown, this specific embodiment is a loose-fitting top 160 / 84 (relaxation 20%-frame B / 2-AHB48%), and its relevant data are: chest circumference B84+B20%=100.8, back shoulder 15:5.5, 20 degrees, shoulder width S40.5, shoulder 15:6.3, 23 degrees, collar N34.5+N15%=40, back width 0.19B+0.2, waist length 39cm, chest width=back width-0.4, frame B / 2, the back length line drops 2.5 as the front length line, and the front chest split is within 5 degrees.

[0140] Implementation instructions: For loose-fitting clothing, the chest circumference is more than 20% loose, the back armhole value is about 1.5cm greater than the front armhole value, the loose-fitting armhole values ​​are B44%, B46%, B48%, and B50%, and the armhole value B48% = 100.8x0.48 = 48.4 is selected, the armhole depth AH0.5, the armhole depth = 48.4x0.5 = 24.2, loose-fitting clothing is mostly worn in summer, one-piece sleeve can use the minimum armhole value, and two-piece sleeves must use the second or higher armhole value, and the armhole value should be selected reasonably according to the season, style, and shape. Specific embodiment 6:

[0142] Combination Fig.11 As shown, this specific embodiment is 160 / 68 women's loose pants (relaxation 13% - frame 0.66 - wave length 65.6), and its relevant data are: pants length TL96, waist circumference W68 (net hip circumference 90) hip circumference H102, loose wave length 65.6, leg opening SB35.2.

[0143] Implementation instructions: The total wave length of industrial design is calculated by dividing the height + net waist circumference by 5 and adding 20cm to get the total wave length of loose pants. The total wave length of loose body = (height + net waist circumference) / 5 + 20cm, the width of the loose cage door is H16 / 100, the front wave length + the back wave length + the front and back waist width 7 = the total wave length, the straight crotch deep diagonal line = (total wave length - 7 waist width) 0.54-3.4cm, the precise algorithm of the straight crotch value is that the maximum deviation of the diagonal line is within 0.3, the back seam diagonal line is 10 degrees, 15 to 2.6, and the length of ordinary pants is generally 2CM below the ankle. Specific embodiment 7:

[0145] Combination Fig.12 As shown, this specific embodiment is a 160 / 70A fitted trousers (relaxation 9% - frame H0.64 - wave length 62.5), and its relevant data are: trouser length TL96, waist circumference W70, (net hip circumference 90) hip circumference H98, fitted wave length 62.5, and leg opening SB32.

[0146] Implementation instructions: The total wave length of industrial design is calculated by dividing the height + the net waist circumference by 5 plus 17cm to get the fitted crotch wave length, fitted wave length = (160+70) / 5+17cm, front wave length + back wave length + front and back waist width 7 = total wave length, the deep slash line of the fitted straight crotch (total wave length - 7 waist width) is 0.5-0.5cm, the fitted cage door width is H14 / 100, the back seam slash line is 11.5 degrees, the straight crotch drop of an additional woolen trouser is 2cm, the length of ordinary trousers is generally 2CM below the ankle, and the waist width of women's trousers is 3 to 3.5cm. Specific embodiment 8:

[0148] Combination Fig.13 As shown, this specific embodiment is 160 / 72 women's tight low-waist pants (relaxation 2% - frame 0.63 - wave length 60.4), and its relevant data are: bell-bottom length 98, waist W72, hip circumference H93, wave length 60.4, T-back length 92, leg opening 30 (29-32).

[0149] Implementation instructions: The total wave length of industrial design is calculated by dividing the height + net waist circumference by 5 and adding 14 to get the tight crotch wave length. Tight wave length = (height + net waist circumference) / 5 + 14. The wave length of low-waist tights is shifted down by one waist width (waist width 3.5 × 2). The actual wave length of low-waist tights needs to be reduced by 7cm waist width. The straight crotch deep diagonal line = wave length × 0.49-1.1. Add a pair of woolen pants and the straight crotch will drop 2cm. The cage door width is H13 / 100, and the back seam diagonal line is 13 degrees, which is 15 to 3.5.

[0150] Finally, it should be noted that the above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the protection scope of the present invention. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention shall be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the amount of pattern looseness, characterized in that: The invention relates to a method for making a pattern of a top, wherein the method comprises the following steps: Step 100: obtaining the size data of relevant parts of the human body by measuring the body, the size data at least including the chest circumference, and determining the target pattern and the pattern looseness value corresponding to the target pattern according to the size data; Step 200: determining the required total armhole value range according to the looseness value of the pattern, the total armhole value range is 44%-52% of the chest circumference, and further determining the specific total armhole value according to the inner clothing volume of the target pattern; Step 200 specifically includes the following steps: Step 201: matching a corresponding minimum reference value of the armhole according to the pattern looseness value of the target pattern, wherein the minimum reference value of the armhole is 40%-52% of the bust; Step 202: Divide the minimum reference value of the armhole by the finished chest circumference to obtain the minimum armhole ratio, and round off the three decimal places of the minimum armhole ratio to obtain the minimum value percentage of the total armhole value; Step 203: according to the minimum value percentage, each increment of (1-2)% is a value percentage, until it increases to the upper limit of 52%, and a value range containing at least one value percentage is obtained; Step 204: According to the amount of inner clothing, determine the appropriate value percentage within the obtained value range, and multiply the value percentage by the chest circumference to obtain the total sleeve value; Step 300: determining the front armhole value, the back armhole value and the difference between the front and back armholes according to the total armhole value; Step 400: Determine the frame structure of the target pattern, the size information of each part of the frame structure, and the chest dart of the pattern; Step 500: Making a pattern according to the determined size information of the top pattern.

2. A digital clothing plate making method based on wearing amount and pattern looseness according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 201, the target version of the top is divided into a tight-fitting type, a close-fitting type, a fitted type, a loose type and a loose type; Among them, for the tight-fitting type with a looseness value of 0, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 52% of the bust circumference; for the close-fitting type with a looseness value of 5%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 50% of the bust circumference; for the fitted type with a looseness value of 10%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 48% of the bust circumference; for the looser type with a looseness value of 15%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 46% of the bust circumference; for the loose type with a looseness value of 20%, the minimum reference value of the armhole is 44% of the bust circumference.

3. A digital clothing plate making method based on wearing amount and pattern looseness according to claim 2, characterized in that: In step 204, the inner garments include one or more of woolen sweaters, sweaters, woolen garments, Nike jackets, cotton coats and down jackets, wherein woolen sweaters, sweaters and woolen garments correspond to one standard value, and cotton coats and down jackets correspond to two standard values. The inner garment quantity is the total number of standard values ​​of the inner garments, and according to the total number of standard values, the percentage of values ​​located in the order of the total number from small to large within the value range is the appropriate percentage of values.

4. The digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the amount of pattern looseness according to claim 2, characterized in that: When the top is women's clothing, the pattern is a tight-fitting type with an allowance of 0, the difference between the front and rear garment lines is chest circumference / 60+1.1cm, and the armhole formula is 0.503 times the total armhole value; the pattern is a close-fitting type with an allowance of 5%, the difference between the front and rear garment length lines is chest circumference / 60+1.1cm, and the armhole formula is 0.503 times the total armhole value; the pattern is a fitted type with an allowance of 10%, the difference between the front and rear garment lines is chest circumference / 40-0.5cm, and the armhole formula is 0.504 times the total armhole value; the pattern is a looser type with an allowance of 15%, the front and rear garment lines are flush, and the armhole formula is 0.504 times the total armhole value; the pattern is a loose sleeve with an allowance of 20%, the front garment length line is 2.5cm behind the garment length line, and the armhole formula is 0.5 times the total armhole value.

5. A digital clothing plate making method based on wearing amount and pattern looseness according to claim 4, characterized in that: In step 500, the target pattern for pattern making is a women's top, and the method for making two sleeves of the women's top includes: The frame structure of the close-fitting and fitted types is bust / 2+2cm, and the frame structure of the loose type is bust / 2+1.5cm. When the percentage of the sleeve volume of the body to the bust is the same for these three types, the percentage of the sleeve cap depth and the sleeve fat to the bust is the same. When the sleeve volume accounts for 52% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 35% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the sleeve volume accounts for 50% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 34% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the sleeve volume accounts for 48% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 33% of the bust, and the sleeve fat diagonal line is 50% of the bust. The frame structure of the loose type is bust / 2. When the armhole accounts for 50% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 35% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the armhole accounts for 48% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 34% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust; when the armhole accounts for 46% of the bust, the sleeve cap depth is 33% of the bust, and the sleeve width diagonal line is 50% of the bust; Among them, the sleeve cap depth changes with the different chest circumference ratios applied to the armhole. The front sleeve line is naturally generated by the intersection of the front sleeve cap oblique line and the sleeve fat line. The back sleeve line is made according to the pattern frame structure. The close-fitting and fitted frame is chest circumference / 2+2cm, and the back sleeve volume is 0. The looser frame is chest circumference / 2+1.5cm, and the back sleeve volume is 1cm. The loose frame is chest circumference / 2, and the back sleeve volume is 2cm.

6. The digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the amount of pattern looseness according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 500, the target version is a top with a round neckline, and the method for making the round neckline includes a neckline making method and a pullover crotch length making method: Neckline making method: make the back neckline first, divide the neckline length by 5, measure from the back neckline straight line to the back length line to adjust the back neckline curve, measure the back neckline width from the front center to the back -0.3 is the front neckline width, measure from the front neckline width straight line to the front center line and divide the neckline length by 3.7-0.1, draw a curve at 2 / 5 of the diagonal line as the front neckline line; The correct way to measure the length of the fork of a pullover: the length of the front neckline slit is measured from the front collar shoulder point in a straight line according to the head circumference / 2+1cm minus the length of the back neckline arc to the front center line, which is the fork length of the front neckline. The length of the back neckline slit is measured from the back collar shoulder point in a straight line according to the head circumference / 2+1cm minus the length of the front neckline arc to the back center line, which is the fork length of the back neckline.

7. The digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the amount of pattern looseness according to claim 1, characterized in that: Step 200 also includes a method for calculating the finished value of the circumference of the target version, which includes the following steps: Step 211: determining the number of inner garments and the types of inner and outer garments required for the garment to be pattern-made, and calculating the girth of each garment according to the number of layers of the garment and the corresponding girth ratio; Step 212: multiply the sum of the circumferences of each piece of clothing by the sum of the looseness and thickness of the target pattern to obtain the circumference of the target pattern; Step 213: Add the sum of the chest circumference and the circumference of each piece of clothing to the circumference of the target pattern to obtain the circumference finished product value of the target pattern of the garment to be made.

8. The digital clothing plate making method based on the amount of clothing worn and the amount of pattern looseness according to claim 1, characterized in that: The digital clothing plate making method also includes a trousers plate making method, and the trousers plate making method includes the following steps: Step 600: obtaining the size data of relevant parts of the human body by measuring the body, the size data at least including height, hip circumference and waist circumference, and determining the target version, which is divided into tight type, fitted type and loose type; Step 700: Determine the pattern looseness, wave length value, and gantry width, and then make the plate.

9. A digital clothing pattern making method based on wearing amount and pattern looseness according to claim 8, characterized in that: In step 700, when the target version is a tight fit, the trouser frame width is 0.63 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) / 5 + 14cm, the cage width is 13% of the hip circumference, the straight crotch deep diagonal formula is 0.49 times the wave length value - 1.1cm, the back crotch drops 1cm, the back seam is inclined 13 degrees inward to the waist opening, the hip circumference is loose 2%, the front waist opening drops 1.5cm, the waist is slid in 1.5cm, and the back waist is raised 3cm; When the target version is a fitted type, the trouser frame width is 0.64 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) / 5 + 17cm, the cage width is 14% of the hip circumference, the straight crotch deep diagonal formula is (wave length value - waist width 7cm) 0.5-0.5cm, the back crotch drops 1cm, the back seam is inclined 11.5 degrees inward to the waist opening, the hip circumference is loose 9%, the front waist opening drops 2cm, withdraws 1cm, and the back waist is raised 2.5cm; When the target version is a loose body type, the trouser frame width is 0.66 of the hip circumference, the wave length value = (height + waist circumference) / 5 + 20cm, the cage width is 16% of the hip circumference, the straight crotch deep diagonal formula is (wave length value - waist width 7cm) 0.54-3.4cm, the back crotch drops 1cm, the back seam is slanted 10 degrees inward to the waist, the hip circumference is 13% loose, the front waist opening is 0.5cm inward, and the back waist is raised 2.5cm.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Novel garment structure design method

    CN109645607A