A process for improving the hip fit of casual pants

Abstract

The present invention discloses a process for improving the fit of the hip of casual pants, which comprises the following steps carried out in sequence: ironing and stretching the inner seam of the back piece: after aligning the position, straighten the outer seam of the trouser piece, straighten and stretch the inner seam and pull it open, and evenly push the slack towards the back crotch, then iron it flat; pressing and shaping the back piece: place the trouser piece on the press, straighten the outer seam, make the inner seam flush with the outer seam, evenly push the slack towards the back crotch, and shape it by the press; ironing the seam after sewing: after sewing the outer seam, iron the outer seam in the way of reverse sewing, and then iron the inner seam, and iron and shape the part above the middle crotch of the inner seam; pressing the trouser piece; attaching the waistband. By setting the flattening mechanism to replace the flattening block in the prior art, the present invention enables a flattening mechanism to adapt to the cutting of trouser pieces of many size specifications, and has excellent flattening effect and high flattening coverage rate during cutting. Through technical means, the present invention can effectively and relatively low-costly improve the fit of the hip of casual pants, achieving the effects of both beauty and comfort.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of casual pants technology, and particularly to a technology for improving the fit of the buttocks of casual pants. Background Art

[0002] Business men's casual pants are an essential item for middle-aged and young business men's daily wear, and have a relatively large and stable market space. With the increasing economic and consumption levels, consumers' demands for the aesthetic appearance and wearing comfort of casual pants are also gradually increasing. The buttocks are one of the key parts of the casual pants technology and have a great impact on the wearing effect. There is no technical solution to solve this problem in the existing technology. The patent with the publication number CN112471653B: A new type of pants pattern design and drafting method, the method includes the following steps: S1: Obtain individual body characteristic parameters; S2: Draw a clothing pattern according to the characteristic parameters; wherein, in step S1, the characteristic parameters include waist height, crotch to ground, front waist concave, back waist concave, side waist concave, waist circumference, belly and hip circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, calf circumference, front of heel, back of heel, outside of heel and inside of heel; the individual stands vertically and naturally on a horizontal plane, the waist depression of the individual is the waist line, and the connection between the lower abdomen and the hip bulge is the hip line. It solves the problem of fit by means of clothing patterns rather than ironing processes, and it focuses on high adaptability and meeting the individual requirements of clothing. In addition, currently, the cutting of the face cloth of the trousers is carried out with a tape seat cutter, which is pressed on the trouser piece template to act as a flattening mechanism or a pressing block is used, and the flattening effect is not good, and the cut trouser folds or dimensions (due to insufficient flattening, there is partial cloth shrinkage or uneven unfolding, resulting in the final cut trouser piece size not meeting the requirements) do not meet the requirements. Summary of the Invention

[0003] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the defects existing in the prior art and provide a technology for improving the fit of the buttocks of casual pants, which can effectively and relatively low-costly improve the fit of the buttocks of casual pants through technological means, achieving both aesthetic and comfortable effects.

[0004] To achieve the above purpose, the technical solution of the present invention is to design a technology for improving the fit of the buttocks of casual pants, including the following steps carried out in sequence:

[0005] S1: Press and iron the inner seam of the back piece: After finding the correct position, straighten the outer seam of the trouser piece, straighten and pull open the inner seam, and evenly push the slack backward to the back crotch, and iron it flat;

[0006] S2: Press and shape the back piece: Place the trouser piece on the press, straighten the outer seam, make the inner seam flush with the outer seam, evenly push the slack backward to the back crotch, and shape it with the press;

[0007] S3: Iron the seam after sewing: After sewing the outer seam, iron the outer seam in the reverse sewing ironing method, and then iron the inner seam, and press and iron and shape the part above the middle crotch of the inner seam;

[0008] S4: Press and iron the trouser piece: Turn the trouser piece to the front side, use an iron to pull the inner seam into a straight line, hold the inner seam with your hand, push out the slack, and then evenly gather it from the back hip to the middle crotch; then use a press to shape it.

[0009] S5: Attach the waistband: Paste a high-elastic spun lining on the waist of the back trouser piece.

[0010] A further technical solution is that step S1 is: Fold the back piece with the wrong sides facing each other and place it on the ironing table, align the two seams below the middle crotch, align the notch and iron it flat. Fold the part above the middle crotch along the notch of the waist and back crotch stop, push the outer seam straight, pull the inner seam straight and spread it open. The spreading is increased from the conventional 0.5 cm to 1 cm and is flush with the outer seam. Hold the inner seam with your hand and evenly push the slack towards the back crotch to form the hip circumference shape, iron it flat, make the back crotch smooth, and make the hip plump and straight. It is required that the hip shape of the back piece conforms to the human body, with a smooth and plump arc.

[0011] A further technical solution is that step S2 is: Fold the trouser piece with the back crotch pulled well with the wrong sides facing each other and place it on the press, push the outer seam straight, make the inner seam flush with the outer seam, evenly push the slack towards the back crotch to form the hip circumference shape, make the back crotch smooth, and make the hip plump and straight, then use the press to shape it. It is required that the hip shape of the back piece conforms to the human body, with a smooth and plump arc and the crease straight.

[0012] A further technical solution is that step S3 is: Sew the outer seam, align the notches, and make the seam allowance even; sew the inner seam, make the seam allowance even below the middle crotch, lay the front piece flat above the middle crotch, pull the back piece open to be the same length as the front inner seam, and sew them together; Iron the outer seam: Turn the trouser piece to the wrong side, place it on the mold with the outer seam centered, lay the trouser piece flat and straighten the grain of the front piece; Iron it by sewing backwards from the hem upwards and backwards; Iron the inner seam: Turn the trouser piece with the wrong side up, place it on the mold with the inner seam centered, lay the trouser piece flat and straighten the grain of the front piece, and iron it by sewing backwards; Iron and shape the part above the middle crotch of the inner seam. It is required that the inner and outer seams are straight, the grain of the front piece is straight, and the trouser piece is flat.

[0013] A further technical solution is that step S4 is: Turn the trouser piece to the front side, fold it in half along the upright seam with the inner seam facing up, and straighten the grain of the front piece; Use an iron to pull the inner seam into a straight line, hold the inner seam with your hand, push out the slack, and then evenly gather it from the back hip to the middle crotch, with the grain forming an S shape to make the hip shape; Then use the press to shape it, and do not press and iron the part above the hip circumference. It is required that the trouser piece is flat and the back piece conforms to the body contour.

[0014] A further technical solution is that step S5 is: Paste a 30G high-elastic spun lining with a width of 2 cm on the waist of the back trouser piece to fix the water absorption amount, and increase the total water absorption of the back piece of the waist from the conventional 0.6 cm to 0.8 cm.

[0015] A further technical solution is that when cutting the back piece, use a flattening mechanism to flatten it and then cut it.

[0016] A further technical solution is that the flattening mechanism includes an airbag, which includes a main body part with a cylindrical middle part and several arc-shaped branch airbag columns integrally formed with the main body part. The branch airbag columns are arranged in a circular array centered on the center of the main body part;

[0017] On the upper end surface of the main body part, there is a hand-holding part that is convenient for workers to hold. The hand-holding part protrudes upward from the upper end surface of the main body part. Compared with the prior art, currently, a tape holder cutter is used and pressed on the trouser piece template to act as a flattening mechanism. Since the outer periphery of the middle main body part of the airbag is provided with arc-shaped branch airbag columns that bend inward (which can be regarded as fingers that close inward), when cutting is required, one hand holds the hand-holding part, and the hand holding the hand-holding part shifts towards the cloth surface to be flattened, so that the branch airbag columns tightly press against the cloth surface, ensuring that the cloth surface is pressed flat during cutting. Moreover, the flattening mechanism arranged in this way has better adaptability and can also be applicable to those with slightly different sizes.

[0018] A further technical solution is that several convex airbag hemispheres are evenly arranged on the side of the branch airbag column close to the cloth to be cut. The airbag hemispheres are integrally formed with the branch airbag column; the airbag, the airbag hemispheres, and the branch airbag column are all made of elastic rubber material. The setting of the airbag hemispheres can better and faster press towards the cloth surface when the branch airbag column is tilted and approached to the cloth surface to be flattened, achieving better and faster completion of the flattening action; the airbag, the airbag hemispheres, and the branch airbag column being all made of elastic rubber material can make the branch airbag column fold up when not flattening, and when it is necessary to tilt and press towards the edge of the finally cut shape, the branch airbag column can be easily tilted towards the cloth surface.

[0019] The advantages and beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: By setting the flattening mechanism to replace the flattening block in the prior art, a single flattening mechanism can adapt to the cutting of trouser pieces of many size specifications, and the flattening effect during cutting is excellent, and the flattening coverage rate is high. The present invention can effectively and relatively low-costly improve the fitness of the hip of casual trousers through technological means, achieving the effects of both beauty and comfort.

[0020] By setting the flattening mechanism to replace the flattening block in the prior art, a single flattening mechanism can adapt to the cutting of trouser pieces of many size specifications, and the flattening effect during cutting is excellent, and the flattening coverage rate is high. The present invention can effectively and relatively low-costly improve the fitness of the hip of casual trousers through technological means, achieving the effects of both beauty and comfort.

[0021] Since the outer periphery of the middle main body part of the airbag is provided with arc-shaped branch airbag columns that bend inward (which can be regarded as fingers that close inward), when cutting is required, one hand holds the hand-holding part, and the hand holding the hand-holding part shifts towards the cloth surface to be flattened, so that the branch airbag columns tightly press against the cloth surface, ensuring that the cloth surface is pressed flat during cutting. Moreover, the flattening mechanism arranged in this way has better adaptability and can also be applicable to those with slightly different sizes.

[0022] The setting of the airbag hemispheres can press towards the fabric better and faster when the branch airbag columns are tilted towards the fabric to be flattened, achieving a better and faster flattening action. The airbag, airbag hemispheres, and branch airbag columns are all made of elastic rubber material, so that the branch airbag columns can be folded up when not in use, and can be easily tilted towards the fabric when needed to tilt and press towards the edge of the final cut shape. Description of the Drawings

[0023] Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the first process of a process for improving the hip fit of casual pants according to the present invention;

[0024] Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the third process of the present invention;

[0025] Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the fourth process of the present invention;

[0026] Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the fifth process of the present invention;

[0027] Figure 5 is a schematic diagram of the flattening mechanism in the present invention;

[0028] Figure 6 is Figure 5 a top view of.

[0029] In the figure: 1, main body part; 2, branch airbag column; 3, hand-held part; 4, airbag hemisphere. Detailed Embodiments

[0030] The following combines the drawings and embodiments to further describe the detailed embodiments of the present invention. The following embodiments are only used to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention and cannot be used to limit the protection scope of the present invention.

[0031] Embodiment 1:

[0032] The present invention is a process for improving the hip fit of casual pants, which focuses on: taking in darts and making them shorter to raise the hip point; controlling the pressing and ironing amount of the inner seam of the back piece; increasing the back dart and widening the cage door width; controlling the gathering and ironing amount below the hip of the back piece.

[0033] This process can be divided into five processes. The first process is to press and iron the inner seam at the back: Place the back piece folded with the wrong sides facing each other on the ironing table, align the two seams below the middle crotch, align the notches and iron them flat. For the part above the middle crotch, fold it in half according to the notches at the waist and the back crotch stop. Push the outer seam straight and pull the inner seam straight and open. The opening is increased from the conventional 0.5 cm to 1 cm and is flush with the outer seam. Hold the inner seam with your hand and evenly push the slack towards the back crotch to form the hip circumference shape, iron it flat, make the back crotch smooth, and make the hip plump and straight. AsFigure 1 As shown, it is required that the shape of the back hip part conforms to the human body, with a smooth and full arc.

[0034] The second process is to press and shape the back piece: Place the trouser piece with the back crotch pulled well with the wrong sides facing each other on the press. Push the outer seam straight and make the inner seam flush with the outer seam. Evenly push the excess fabric towards the back crotch to form the hip circumference shape, with a smooth back crotch and a full and straight hip. Then, use the press to shape it. It is required that the shape of the back hip part conforms to the human body, with a smooth and full arc and a straight center crease.

[0035] The third process is to sew and press the seams: (1) Sew the outer seam, align the notches, and make the seam allowance even; sew the inner seam, make the seam allowance even below the middle crotch, lay the front piece flat above the middle crotch, and pull the back piece open to the same length as the front inner seam and then sew them together. Press the outer seam: Turn the trouser piece to the wrong side, place it on the mold with the outer seam centered, straighten the grain of the front piece; iron it by sewing backwards from the hem upwards and backwards. (2) Press the inner seam: Place the trouser piece with the wrong side up on the mold with the inner seam centered, straighten the grain of the front piece, and iron it by sewing backwards; press and shape the part above the middle crotch of the inner seam. As Figure 2 shown. It is required that the inner and outer seams are straight, the grain of the front piece is straight, and the trouser piece is flat.

[0036] The fourth process is to press and iron the trouser piece: Turn the trouser piece to the right side, fold it in half along the center crease with the inner seam facing up, and straighten the grain of the front piece; use an iron to pull the inner seam into a straight line, hold the inner seam with your hand, push out the excess fabric, and then evenly gather it from the back hip to the middle crotch to form an S-shaped grain and make the hip shape; then use the press to shape it, and do not press and iron the part above the hip circumference. As Figure 3 shown. It is required that the trouser piece is flat and the back piece conforms to the human body contour.

[0037] The fifth process is to attach the waistband: Stick a 2-cm-wide and 30-G high-elastic non-woven interlining to the waist of the back trouser piece to fix the amount of gathering. The total gathering amount of the back piece at the waist is increased from the conventional 0.6 cm to 0.8 cm. As Figure 4 shown.

[0038] As Figure 5 , Figure 6 shown, when cutting the back piece, use a flattening mechanism to flatten it first and then cut. The flattening mechanism includes an airbag. The airbag includes a main body part 1 with a cylindrical middle part and several arc-shaped branch airbag columns 2 integrally formed with the main body part 1. The branch airbag columns 2 are arranged in a circular array with the center of the main body part 1 as the center; on the upper end surface of the main body part 1, there is a hand-holding part 3 for the worker to hold, and the hand-holding part 3 protrudes upward from the upper end surface of the main body part 1. On the side of each branch airbag column 2 close to the cloth surface to be cut, several protruding airbag hemispheres 4 are evenly distributed, and the airbag hemispheres 4 are integrally formed with the branch airbag columns 2; the airbag, the airbag hemispheres 4 and the branch airbag columns 2 are all made of elastic rubber material.

[0039] Example Two:

[0040] It is different from the first embodiment in that: the outer seam is pushed straight, the inner seam is straightened and pulled apart, and the pulling distance is increased from the conventional 0.5 cm to 1.2 cm.

[0041] Embodiment 3:

[0042] It is different from the first embodiment in that: the outer seam is pushed straight, the inner seam is straightened and pulled apart, and the pulling distance is increased from the conventional 0.5 cm to 0.9 cm.

[0043] The parameters of the three casual trousers made by this process (all three casual trousers adopt the aforementioned flattening mechanism) are as follows in the table:

[0044]

[0045]

[0046] It can be seen that the casual trousers made by this process meet the requirements of GB / T2666 - 2017. The front and rear crotches are smooth and flat. The cross difference of the crotch bottom cross seam is less than 0.3 cm, the length difference between the two trouser legs is less than 0.5 cm, and the fatness difference is less than 0.3 cm; the ironing is smooth and tidy, without scorching, water stains or bright spots. The ironing trace line is straight, the buttocks are smooth, and the trouser legs are straight. In addition, this casual trouser also meets the requirements of SB / T 10785 - 2012. The inner crotch is flat and straight; the trouser seams: from the inner crotch to the trouser legs, the inner and outer trouser seams are all aligned correctly, and the maximum error is not more than 0.5 cm. The large trouser line is vertical and pressed firmly. The front trouser line is naturally connected with the waist dart. The rear trouser line is pressed to the height of the inner crotch and stops about 3 cm below the rear pocket line. The trouser legs are flat and straight without bulging. The inside and outside of the trouser legs are flush. There are no ironing water stains or bright spots on the fabric, and there is no scorching or melting.

[0047] The above is only the preferred embodiment of the present invention. It should be noted that for those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, several improvements and retouches can still be made, and these improvements and retouches should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A process for improving the fit of the hip of casual pants, characterized in that, It includes the following steps carried out in sequence: S1: Pressing and stretching the inner seam of the back piece: After aligning the position, straighten the outer seam of the trouser piece, stretch and pull open the inner seam, and evenly push the slack towards the back crotch, then iron it flat; S2: Pressing and shaping the back piece: Place the trouser piece on the press, straighten the outer seam and make the inner seam flush with the outer seam, evenly push the slack towards the back crotch, and then shape it with the press; S3: Pressing the seam after sewing: After sewing the outer seam, iron the outer seam in a reverse-seam ironing manner, and then iron the inner seam. Press and shape the part of the inner seam above the middle crotch; S4: Pressing the trouser piece: Turn the trouser piece to the front side, use an iron to pull open the inner seam into a straight line, hold the inner seam line with your hand, push out the slack, and then evenly gather it from the back hip to the middle crotch; then shape it with the press; S5: Attaching the waistband: Paste a high-elastic spun lining on the waist of the back trouser piece; When cutting the back piece, it is pressed flat by a pressing mechanism and then cut; The pressing mechanism includes an airbag. The airbag includes a main body part with a cylindrical middle part and several arc-shaped branch airbag columns integrally formed with the main body part. The branch airbag columns are arranged in a circular array centered on the center of the main body part; On the upper end surface of the main body part, there is a hand-holding part for easy holding by workers, and the hand-holding part protrudes upward from the upper end surface of the main body part.

2. The process for improving the hip fit of casual trousers according to claim 1, characterized in that, The S1 step is: Fold the back piece with the reverse sides facing each other and place it on the ironing table. Align the two seams of the part below the middle crotch, align the notch and iron it flat. For the part above the middle crotch, fold it in half according to the notch of the waist opening and back crotch stop. Straighten the outer seam, stretch and pull open the inner seam. Increase the pulling open from the conventional 0.5 cm to 1 cm, make it flush with the outer seam, hold the inner seam with your hand, evenly push the slack towards the back crotch, make the hip circumference shape, iron it flat, make the back crotch smooth, and make the buttocks plump and straight.

3. The process for improving the hip fit of casual pants according to claim 2, characterized in that The S2 step is: Fold the trouser piece with the back crotch pulled well with the reverse sides facing each other and place it on the press. Straighten the outer seam, make the inner seam flush with the outer seam, evenly push the slack towards the back crotch, make the hip circumference shape, make the back crotch smooth, and make the buttocks plump and straight, then shape it with the press.

4. A process for improving the hip fit of casual pants according to claim 3, characterized in that, The S3 step is: Sew the outer seam, align the notches, and make the seam allowance even; sew the inner seam, make the seam allowance even for the part below the middle crotch, lay the front piece flat for the part above the middle crotch, pull open the back piece to be the same length as the front inner seam, and sew them together; Iron the outer seam: Turn the trouser piece to the reverse side, place it on the mold with the outer seam centered, straighten the grain of the front piece of the trouser piece; Iron it in a reverse-seam manner from the hem upwards and backwards; Iron the inner seam: Turn the trouser piece with the reverse side up, place it on the mold with the inner seam centered, straighten the grain of the front piece of the trouser piece, and iron it in a reverse-seam manner backwards; Press and shape the part of the inner seam above the middle crotch.

5. A process for improving the hip fit of casual pants according to claim 4, characterized in that, The S4 step is: Turn the trouser piece to the front side, fold it in half along the upright sewing line with the inner seam facing up, and straighten the grain of the front piece; Use an iron to pull open the inner seam into a straight line, hold the inner seam line with your hand, push out the slack, and then evenly gather it from the back hip to the middle crotch, making the grain in an S shape and making the buttocks shape; Then shape it with the press, and do not press and iron the part above the hip circumference.

6. A process for improving the hip fit of casual pants according to claim 5, characterized in that, The S5 step is: Paste a 30G high-elastic spun lining with a width of 2 cm on the waist of the back trouser piece to fix the water absorption amount. The total water absorption of the back piece of the waist is increased from the conventional 0.6 cm to 0.8 cm.

7. A process for improving the hip fit of casual pants according to claim 1, characterized in that, On the side of each branch airbag column close to the cloth surface to be cut, several raised airbag hemispheres are evenly distributed, and the airbag hemispheres are integrally formed with the branch airbag columns; The airbag, airbag hemispheres and branch airbag columns are all made of elastic rubber material.

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