Composition for caring for keratin materials

Abstract

Transparent anhydrous composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising: a) at least one acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof; and b) propylene glycol. And non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials and its use. In particular, this invention relates to a transparent, anhydrous composition for caring for keratin materials. This invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials. Background Technology

[0002] Keratin materials such as hair and skin are often damaged and weakened by external environmental factors such as light and weather.

[0003] There are many products available for conditioning hair or caring for skin.

[0004] WO 2012089797A2 discloses a composition for moisturizing keratin materials, comprising (a) at least one alkoxysilane having at least one solubilizing functional group and at least one amino substituent; (b) at least one glycosaminoglycan selected from hyaluronic acid, its derivatives and their salts; and (c) water.

[0005] WO2003105798A1 discloses a cosmetic lotion for care and / or makeup, comprising an aqueous phase and a liquid fat phase dispersed therebetween, the liquid fat phase comprising at least one silicone oil and structured with at least one gelling polymer (homogene or copolymer) having a weight-average molecular weight of 500-500,000, containing at least one moiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1-1000 organosiloxane units (in the chain of said moiety or in graft form), and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, selected from esters, amides, sulfonamides, carbamates, thiocarbamates, ureas, thioureas, oxalamido, guanidine, biguanidine, and combinations thereof, provided that at least one of the groups is not an ester group, the polymer is solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fat phase at a temperature of 25°C-250°C, the aqueous phase, the liquid fat phase, and the gelling polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0006] In the development of beauty products, there is a strong desire to provide products with a pleasing appearance, such as those with a transparent appearance.

[0007] We also hope that the product will be stable over time.

[0008] Hyaluronic acid is known for its film-forming and water-retaining abilities. It is the main glycosaminoglycan found in the skin. This compound and its salts are routinely used in cosmetic products due to their hygroscopic, viscoelastic, and rheological properties, advantageously moisturizing and plumping the skin, reducing wrinkles and dehydration lines, and possessing anti-aging effects. The hyaluronic acid most commonly used in these applications is a large molecule with a molecular weight ranging from 500 kDa to 2000 kDa. Indeed, it has been demonstrated that these high molecular weight hyaluronic acids (through their hygroscopic properties as molecules) provide effective moisturizing effects for the skin.

[0009] However, there are no commercially available products in anhydrous systems that contain hyaluronic acid or its derivatives that are transparent and stable over time. Summary of the Invention

[0010] Therefore, one object of the present invention is to develop a composition containing hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof in an anhydrous system, which is transparent and stable over time.

[0011] Therefore, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent anhydrous composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising:

[0012] a) at least one acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof; and

[0013] b) Propylene glycol.

[0014] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition described above to the keratin material.

[0015] The inventors have discovered that the composition has a transparent appearance over time and is stable, and that the composition is effective in the care of keratin materials.

[0016] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the following detailed description and embodiments.

[0017] Detailed description of the invention

[0018] As used herein, unless otherwise stated, the limits of a numerical range are included within that range, particularly in expressions “...to…” and “...to…”.

[0019] As used herein, the term “comprising” should be interpreted as including all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0020] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses an implementation in which no features other than those specifically mentioned (i.e., "composed of") are present.

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. Where a definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains, the definition set forth herein shall prevail.

[0022] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​used in the specification and claims to represent component quantities, etc., should be understood to be modified by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximations that can be varied depending on the desired performance.

[0023] As used herein, the term "keratin material" includes animal keratin material and human keratin material, such as hair and skin.

[0024] As used herein, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0025] "Anhydrous" means that no water is intentionally added, and the water content of the composition is less than 0.5% by weight, and particularly less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition does not contain water.

[0026] According to a first aspect of the present invention, a transparent anhydrous composition for caring for keratin materials comprises:

[0027] a) at least one acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof; and

[0028] b) Propylene glycol.

[0029] Acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt

[0030] Acetylated hyaluronic acid is a derivative obtained by a method that includes substituting the hydroxyl groups on the disaccharide structure of hyaluronic acid (HA). The structure of acetylated hyaluronic acid is as follows:

[0031]

[0032] Each R is independently CH3CO- or H, and at least one R is CH3CO-.

[0033] Salts of acetylated hyaluronic acid include sodium acetylated hyaluronic acid and potassium acetylated hyaluronic acid.

[0034] The structure of acetylated sodium hyaluronate is as follows:

[0035]

[0036] Each R is independently CH3CO- or H, and at least one R is CH3CO-.

[0037] The degree of acetylation (the proportion of acetylated hyaluronic acid) of acetylated hyaluronic acid can be determined by NMR. Preferably, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has a degree of acetylation of 0.5 to 1. More preferably, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has a degree of acetylation of 0.75 to 1, or even 0.8 to 1.

[0038] Preferably, acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has a weight-average molecular weight of 1,000 Da to 100,000 Da, determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). More preferably, acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has a weight-average molecular weight of 20,000 Da to 50,000 Da, or even 20,000 Da to 30,000 Da, determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

[0039] Two or more acetylated hyaluronic acids or their salts with different weight-average molecular weights can be used together.

[0040] As products of acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts, references may be made to those sold by BLOOMAGE FREDA BIOPHARM under the name HYMAGIC-ACHA, which are acetylated sodium hyaluronates with a degree of acetylation of 0.75 and a weight-average molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 Da, and those sold by GIVAUDAN under the name PRIMALHYAL ULTRAFILLER, which are acetylated sodium hyaluronates with a degree of acetylation of 1 and a weight-average molecular weight of 20,000 Da.

[0041] Advantageously, acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt is present in an amount of 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Propylene glycol

[0043] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises propylene glycol.

[0044] In this invention, the definition of propylene glycol includes all possible isomers, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol and 1,1-propanediol.

[0045] Advantageously, propylene glycol is present in an amount of 10% to 95% by weight, preferably 30% to 95% by weight, and more preferably 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] cationic surfactants

[0047] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the invention comprise cationic surfactants.

[0048] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that, when contained in a composition according to the invention, can carry a positive charge. The surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges, or may contain one or more functional groups that can be cationicized in the compositions according to this disclosure.

[0049] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimethylammonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and arachidtrimonium chloride. (chloride), distearate dimethylammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethylammonium chloride, tricetyl methylammonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, rapeseed oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramide propyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dimeric linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] In some cases, the cationic surfactant is preferably selected from hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, behenamidopropyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, eicosyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearate dimethylammonium chloride, diceryldimethylammonium chloride, tricerylmethylammonium chloride, oleamide propyl dimethylamine, linoleamide propyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamide propyl dimethylamine, arachidamide propyl diethylamine, arachidamide ethyl diethylamine, arachidamide ethyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] In some cases, the cationic surfactant is more preferably selected from hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, stearamide propyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] In addition, in some cases, the preferred cationic surfactants are hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, or mixtures thereof.

[0053] If present, the cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Other alcohols

[0055] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the invention contain other alcohols besides propylene glycol, such as monohydric alcohols having 2-6 carbon atoms, ethylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, and glycerol.

[0056] For example, the monohydric alcohol may be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropanol, cyclohexanol, isobutanol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbut-2-ol) and mixtures thereof.

[0057] In some cases, one or more monools include ethanol. For example, a composition may contain ethanol and optionally one or more other monools having 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0058] If present, the additional alcohol is present in an amount of 5% to 95% by weight, preferably 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Other beauty active ingredients

[0060] In some embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient for caring for keratin materials.

[0061] Cosmetic active ingredients can be dissolved in anhydrous media, especially propylene glycol.

[0062] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients that may be contained in the compositions according to the present invention include Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, caffeine, niacinamide, panthenol, ceramide, amino acids, etc.

[0063] Those skilled in the art can adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredients according to the intended purpose.

[0064] Other adjuvants or additives

[0065] The compositions of the present invention may contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol), bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, pH adjusters (e.g., citric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Those skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the final use of the composition according to the invention.

[0067] Preparation and application

[0068] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing components a) and b) as essential components and one or more additional components as described above.

[0069] There are no limitations on the methods and means of mixing the above-mentioned essential and optional components. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above-mentioned essential and optional components to prepare the composition according to the invention.

[0070] The composition according to the invention has a transparent appearance.

[0071] The term "transparent" refers to a composition having a turbidity of less than or equal to 20 NTU (scattering turbidity units). Turbidity measurements can be performed, for example, using a WGZ-200B turbidimeter from Shanghai INESA Physico-optical instrument Co., Ltd. Measurements are performed at ambient temperature (20°C to 25°C).

[0072] Preferably, the composition of the present invention may have a turbidity of less than or equal to 10 NTU, and more preferably less than or equal to 5 NTU, and even more preferably less than or equal to 2 NTU.

[0073] The composition according to the invention is stable over time.

[0074] "Stable over time" should be understood as meaning that the composition of the present invention does not show any changes in its microscopic appearance after being stored for 2 months at all temperatures between 4°C and 45°C.

[0075] Preferably, the transparent appearance of the composition according to the invention is stable over time.

[0076] The compositions according to the invention can be used as wash-off or leave-in products, such as hair conditioners or skin care products.

[0077] According to a second aspect of the invention, a non-therapeutic method for treating keratin materials includes applying the composition described above to the keratin material.

[0078] In some embodiments, the transparent anhydrous composition according to the invention is intended for use in hair care to maintain strong, shiny, and elastic hair.

[0079] In some embodiments, the transparent anhydrous composition according to the invention is intended for use in skin moisturizing to provide hydration on the skin.

[0080] The following examples are provided to illustrate the invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope. Example

[0081] The main raw materials used, their product names, and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0082] Table 1

[0083]

[0084] Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 of the present invention

[0085] Hair conditioning agents of formulations (IE.) 1-4 and comparative formulations (CE.) 1-4 of the present invention were prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 2 (unless otherwise stated, the content is expressed in parts by weight):

[0086] Table 2

[0087]

[0088] The hair conditioning agents in formulations 1-4 of this invention contain propylene glycol and acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0089] The hair conditioner in Formula 1 contains butylene glycol instead of propylene glycol.

[0090] The hair conditioner in Formula 2 contains dipropylene glycol instead of propylene glycol.

[0091] Formula 3's hair conditioner contains glycerin instead of propylene glycol.

[0092] The hair conditioner in Formula 4 contains ethanol instead of propylene glycol.

[0093] Preparation procedure:

[0094] The hair conditioning agent is prepared as follows, taking the hair conditioning agent of formulation 2 of the present invention as an example:

[0095] 1) Propylene glycol, myristol, dioctyl carbonate, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (if present) and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride are mixed at 60°C to obtain the hair conditioning diol phase;

[0096] 2) Add acetylated sodium hyaluronate (if present) to the diol phase;

[0097] 3) After cooling to room temperature, the alcohol and ethylene glycol phases are directly mixed to obtain the final solution.

[0098] evaluate:

[0099] The appearance of each hair conditioner was observed with the naked eye.

[0100] The stability of each hair conditioner was evaluated as follows: the hair conditioner was kept at 4°C, room temperature (20°C), or 45°C for 2 months, and its transparency was visually confirmed. If the tested hair conditioner remained transparent for 2 months at 4°C, room temperature (20°C), and 45°C, it was rated as stable; otherwise, it was rated as unstable.

[0101] Turbidity was measured using a WGZ-200B turbidity meter from Shanghai INESA Physico-optical instrument Co., Ltd.

[0102] The results are summarized in Table 3.

[0103] Table 3

[0104]

[0105] Examples 5-7 and Comparative Examples 5-8 of the present invention

[0106] The skin care essences of the present invention formulations (IE.) 5-7 and comparative formulations (CE.) 5-8 were prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 4 (unless otherwise stated, the content is expressed in parts by weight):

[0107] Table 4

[0108]

[0109] The skincare essences in formulas 5-7 of this invention contain propylene glycol and acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0110] Compared to Formula 5, the skincare serum contains sodium hyaluronate instead of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0111] The skincare serum in Formula 6 contains sodium hyaluronate instead of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0112] The skincare serum in Formula 7 contains hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate instead of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0113] The skincare serum in Formula 8 contains sodium hyaluronate instead of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0114] Preparation procedure:

[0115] The following is a sample of skincare serum preparation, using Comparative Formula 5 as an example:

[0116] 1) Mix glycerin, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate (if present) to obtain the skin-care diol phase;

[0117] 2). Then heat the diol phase to a maximum of 80°C and mix for 20 minutes to obtain a solution;

[0118] 3) Cool the solution directly to room temperature.

[0119] evaluate:

[0120] Observe the appearance of each skincare serum with the naked eye.

[0121] The stability of each skincare serum was evaluated as follows: the serum was kept at 4°C, room temperature (20°C), or 45°C for 2 months, and its transparency was visually inspected. A serum was rated as stable if it remained transparent for 2 months at all three temperatures (4°C, room temperature (20°C), and 45°C); otherwise, it was rated as unstable.

[0122] Turbidity was measured using a WGZ-200B turbidity meter from Shanghai INESA Physico-optical instrument Co., Ltd.

[0123] The results are summarized in Table 5.

[0124] Table 5

[0125]

Claims

1. A transparent anhydrous composition for treating keratin materials, comprising: a) at least one acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof is present in an amount of 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and b) Propylene glycol.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid is selected from sodium acetylated hyaluronic acid, potassium acetylated hyaluronic acid, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof has a degree of acetylation of 0.5 to 1.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has a weight-average molecular weight of 1,000 Da to 100,000 Da, determined by liquid chromatography (HPLC).

5. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof is present in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein propylene glycol is present in an amount of 10% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1 or 2 further comprises at least one cationic surfactant.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, stearamide propyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition of claim 7, wherein the cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof has a degree of acetylation of 0.75 to 1.

11. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof has a degree of acetylation of 0.8 to 1.

12. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof has a weight-average molecular weight of 20,000 Da to 50,000 Da, determined by liquid chromatography (HPLC).

13. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof has a weight-average molecular weight of 20,000 Da to 30,000 Da, determined by liquid chromatography (HPLC).

14. The composition of claim 6, wherein propylene glycol is present in an amount of 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein it is a conditioning agent or skin care product.

16. A non-therapeutic method for treating keratin material, comprising applying the composition defined in any one of claims 1 to 15 to the keratin material.

17. The method of claim 16, wherein the keratin material is skin or hair.

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