Machine washable and non-iron wool suit and its manufacturing method

Abstract

The application discloses a machine-washable and non-ironing wool suit and a manufacturing method thereof, and the manufacturing method comprises the following steps: S1, suit sewing; S2, spraying a non-ironing finishing liquid, so that the liquid rate of the suit reaches 70-90%; S3, low-temperature pre-drying, and the water content of the suit after pre-drying is controlled to be 20-30%; S4, suit pressing and pre-setting; S5, the suit is put into a three-dimensional mannequin clothes hanger and placed in a low-temperature setting device to be dehumidified and dried, and the water content of the suit after completion is 0-10%; S6, the suit is finished in a non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing device; and S7, after water washing finishing and drying. The wool suit prepared by the application can meet the standard requirements, has soft hand feeling, can maintain a non-ironing effect of grade 3.5-4, can be machine-washed, has a simple maintenance process, improves work efficiency, has an aesthetic effect, and is more comfortable to wear.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of garment processing, in particular to a machine-washable and non-iron wool suit and a manufacturing method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] A suit is a preferred choice for company employees and government employees to wear in a more formal occasion. A wool suit has a natural and soft luster, a soft and elastic hand feeling, and basically no wrinkles after holding and releasing the fabric, and even if there are slight folds, they can disappear in a very short time. The wool suit is far superior to a chemical fiber suit in terms of texture and drape. However, wool shrinks when it comes into contact with water, which is a "disadvantage" of wool. Consumers often need to dry clean the wool suit when they maintain it, which is not only inconvenient but also expensive, resulting in a poor user experience. Modern people have multiple needs for a healthy, comfortable, convenient and fast life, and a suit that cannot be washed by water or machine cannot meet the needs of consumers.

[0003] The wool fabric suits currently sold on the market cannot be washed by water. After washing by water or machine, the lining is prone to fall off and bubble due to the chemical composition and morphological structure characteristics of wool fibers, which causes the radial shrinkage of the seam line at the seam part of the suit to be much larger than that of the surrounding fabric, thereby causing wrinkles and shrinkage at the seam part of the suit. Even after heat pressing and garment baking for solidification and setting, the wrinkles will still recover after washing by water, affecting the appearance of the suit. In addition, wool fabric cannot be used for high-temperature setting. When the temperature exceeds 120 DEG C, the wool fabric will be scorched and shrunk, so it cannot be used for high-temperature pressing setting (with pressure, normal 100-150 DEG C, which will damage the strength of wool fibers and cause brittle fracture) and high-temperature baking setting (normal high-temperature setting requires 150 DEG C). After normal setting, the wool suit is stiff due to its properties. There is no equipment for modifying wool fibers, and the fibers are tightly held and more soft after cold freezing and moisture extraction, and the suit can also maintain a neat and wrinkle-resistant effect of 3.5-4 levels. In addition, wool fabric is resistant to acid but not alkali, and the method of removing scales cannot improve the wrinkle-resistant effect and wearing comfort of wool, and has no non-iron effect.

[0004] Many anti-wrinkle wool fabric clothes on the market only use composite setting coating or anti-wrinkle agent at the seams of the clothes to achieve the non-iron effect. This process only temporarily ensures the flatness of the clothes and reduces the wearing comfort, and cannot achieve a 3.5-4 level non-iron effect, and the hand feeling is hard and the clothes scratch the skin, so the wool non-iron process needs to be improved. Patent document CN 111743218 A machine washable wool suit and sewing method, the inside of the lower hem of the main body of the suit is provided with a water-permeable hole at the lower edge, and the sleeve cuffs of the sleeves are provided with a thin lining, and the thin lining is made of machine washable lining cloth. When machine washing, the adhesive lining cloth can effectively stabilize the suit pattern structure and three-dimensional effect, and after setting the water-permeable hole, the water accumulation and downward movement between the fabric and the lining during machine washing can be effectively reduced, which can reduce the possibility of suit deformation and lining rupture, and water can be discharged through the water-permeable hole, providing all-round safety protection for non-deformation after machine washing. The above method uses a water-permeable hole, which can improve the machine washability of the suit to some extent, but the wool fabric itself is not improved, and the wool fabric is still prone to shrinkage after multiple machine washes, resulting in wrinkles on the suit and poor three-dimensional shape of the suit. SUMMARY

[0005] The purpose of the present application is to overcome the problems of poor non-iron treatment effect, short duration, non-iron effect not reaching 3.5 level, hard hand feeling and affecting wearing comfort of existing wool fabric, and to provide a method for making machine washable non-iron wool suit.

[0006] In order to achieve the above-mentioned purpose of the application, the present application provides the following technical solutions:

[0007] A method for making machine washable non-iron wool suit, comprising the following steps

[0008] Step S1, suit sewing; specifically comprising the following steps:

[0009] Step S11, cutting and sticking of wool fabric and adhesive lining, the wool fabric is subjected to shrinkage prevention treatment, and the wool content in the wool fabric is more than 80%;

[0010] Step S12, shrinkage and pullback treatment; the pullback treatment value is 0.4-1cm;

[0011] Step S13, chest lining and inlay strip for the suit;

[0012] Step S14, perform double hanging and turn pressing, then sew the darts, make the bottom edge, and sew the shoulder;

[0013] Step S15, collar and sleeve fitting process;

[0014] Step S16, iron the suit, then button the buttons;

[0015] Step S2, spraying the non-iron finishing liquid to make the suit have a liquid rate of 70-90%;

[0016] Step S3, performing low-temperature pre-drying, and controlling the water content of the suit to be 20-30% after pre-drying;

[0017] Step S4, performing pressing and pre-setting of the suit;

[0018] Step S5, putting the suit into a three-dimensional mannequin hanger and placing it in a low-temperature setting device to perform dehumidification and drying, and making the water content of the suit be 0-10% after completion;

[0019] Step S6, performing finishing of the suit in a non-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing device;

[0020] Step S7, obtaining the machine-washable non-iron suit after washing and drying.

[0021] In the technical scheme of the present application, after the suit is sewn, the non-iron finishing liquid is sprayed on the suit, low-temperature pre-drying, pre-pressing and pressing are adopted, then the suit is put into a three-dimensional mannequin hanger and placed in a low-temperature setting device to perform dehumidification and drying, the suit is fully supported by the three-dimensional mannequin hanger, the water content of the suit is reduced to 0-10% after low-temperature setting, the setting of the wool suit is realized, then the non-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing device is used for finishing, the non-iron effect is improved, and the residual non-iron finishing liquid in the suit is fully removed after washing, so that there is no residual on the suit. In the whole production process, by controlling the process parameters, the strength of the wool fiber fabric is prevented from being damaged by high temperature.

[0022] As a preferred scheme of the present application, the wool content in the wool fabric is more than 95%, and more preferably, the wool fabric is a full wool fabric.

[0023] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S12, before the lining is adhered, lines are marked on the cut wool fabric for positioning and marking, and the lines are removed in the subsequent process of sewing the suit.

[0024] As a preferred scheme of the present application, the lining is a water-washable polyester fiber adhesive lining. When machine washing is performed, the water-washable polyester fiber adhesive lining can effectively stabilize the suit structure and three-dimensional effect. In the lining process, the lining is performed on the fabric at positions such as the body, the facing, the collar and the pocket cover, and an automatic lining pressing machine is used for lining operation.

[0025] As a preferred scheme of the present application, the thread used for gathering is a shrink-resistant core-spun polyester thread, and the single-thread breaking strength of the thread is not less than 720 cN / 50 cm. Specifically, the thread used is a 502 core-spun thread.

[0026] As a preferred scheme of the present application, the pulling treatment value is 0.5-0.8 cm; the present application is directed to high wool fabric or pure wool fabric, and a suit is preliminarily shaped by using a pulling process, a suit special pulling and ironing machine is used for pulling treatment of front and back pieces, sleeve pieces and hanging pieces, and an operator controls the pulling range value at a model at a position requiring pulling. The inventor finds through many tests that if the pulling value range is too large, the suit flatness will have waves, and if the pulling value range is controlled within 0.5-0.8 cm, the suit has a better three-dimensional shape, and the suit style is more erect.

[0027] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S13, a front chest is provided with a layer of non-woven fabric lining, and a car inlay is arranged at a suit lapel folding position. The present application is provided with a layer of non-woven fabric lining at the front chest, the non-woven fabric lining has machine washability, the prior art is provided with two or three layers of non-woven fabric lining at the front chest, such a setting can increase the thickness of the front chest part, so that the suit is more three-dimensional and erect, but the front chest is too thick, and the front chest part dries more slowly than other parts of the suit in the machine washing process, so that the front chest part is prone to wrinkles and has poor machine washability. The present application adjusts the layer number and thickness of the front chest lining, first ensures the three-dimensional requirement of the front chest, and adjusts the drying time of each part of the suit to be different, so as to reduce the possibility of deformation of the front chest in the machine washing process. The present application is further provided with an inlay vertically arranged at a fold formed at the connection between the front chest and the lapel structure, the inlay is vertically arranged, the thickness and width of the inlay are adjusted in a targeted manner, so that the lapel is not rigid after being folded, is not ironed to death, looks more natural and flexible, and will not be raised; meanwhile, the inlay can be arranged in the inlay in the process of hot pressing, so as to effectively solve the problem of deformation and bubbles of the fabric caused by the lapel, and the structure is simple and convenient to operate.

[0028] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S13, a hand towel bag and a large bag are opened on the suit before the front chest lining, and an inner bag and a spliced ear piece are opened on the suit after the inlay is arranged.

[0029] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S14, a non-woven fabric lining is arranged at a splicing seam position, and the non-woven fabric lining is machine washable polyester fiber. The non-woven fabric lining is arranged at the splicing seam position, the strength of the seam position is increased by arranging the non-woven fabric lining, so that the suit has good flatness after machine washing.

[0030] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S14, thin shoulder cotton which is machine washable is used in the shoulder splicing, and the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.1-0.15 cm. The use of the thin shoulder cotton with the specified thickness has a shaping capacity, can ensure the erectness of the shoulder part of the suit, reduces the thickness of the shoulder part of the suit, reduces the drying time of the shoulder part when the suit is machine washed, and the thin shoulder cotton which is machine washable is not prone to deformation, and the possibility of deformation is further reduced.

[0031] As a preferred scheme of the present application, the step of sewing in the collar and the sleeve is followed by the step of sewing in the lining and the step of buttonhole sewing.

[0032] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S2, the ratio of the non-iron finishing liquid is adjusted according to the weight of the suit, 30-50 suits are put into the non-iron finishing liquid spraying device, and are washed in the bidirectional rotating pair of non-iron finishing liquid spraying device at a rotating speed of 5-30 r / min, the non-iron finishing liquid is sprayed to the tumbling suits under pressure atomization, the pressure is 0.5-1 MPa, the liquid rate of the suits is 70-90%, and the finishing time is 10-30 min. The non-iron finishing liquid is an aqueous solution.

[0033] As a preferred scheme of the present application, the low-temperature pre-drying condition is that the temperature is 40-60℃ and the time is 15-30 min. The low-temperature pre-drying is performed immediately after the non-iron finishing liquid is sprayed on the suit, and the purpose is to reduce the humidity of the fabric so that the non-iron finishing liquid molecules do not migrate in the drying process. The inventor finds through many experiments that the full wool fabric is not greatly affected by the heat treatment at 60℃, and gradually deteriorates with the increase of the temperature, the color is yellow at 100℃ for 1 hour, the strength decreases, dehydration occurs at 110℃, the color is dark brown at 130℃, there is a smell at 150℃, and charring occurs at 200-250℃. The properties of the wool do not change when the wool is treated at high temperature for a short time. Therefore, the temperature of the low-temperature pre-drying should not be too high, and the temperature is 40-60℃ and the time is 15-30 min.

[0034] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S4, the specific method of the pressing and pre-setting is that the suit is pressed and set by using the suit pressing and setting device, the pressing and setting time is 8-10 s, and the temperature is 80-100℃.

[0035] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S5, the setting condition of the low-temperature setting device is that the temperature is 40-70℃, the relative humidity is 10-20%, and the low-temperature setting time is 10-30 min.

[0036] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S6, the setting condition of the non-iron quick-freezing air finishing device is that the temperature is -5-0℃ and the time is 6-12 min. After the suit is low-temperature set, the suit is rapidly cooled and gently air-patted in the freezing cabinet of the non-iron quick-freezing air finishing device, so that the non-iron hand feeling is improved.

[0037] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S7, the specific process of the water washing is that the softener is added and the washing time is 8-10 min. The water washing is used to improve the hand feeling of the suit, wash off the thread ends and tails on the suit, and wash off the unreacted additives and free formaldehyde.

[0038] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S7, the specific method of drying the finished product is as follows: the suit is placed in a low-temperature setting device, and the conditions are set as follows: temperature 40-60 DEG C, time 60-90 min, and drying to full dryness.

[0039] As a preferred scheme of the present application, in step S7, the suit is ironed after drying the finished product. After the above process, the suit has a three-dimensional shape and the characteristics of machine washable and non-ironing. In order to make the delivered suit have a better appearance, the suit is ironed again.

[0040] Another method of the present application provides a machine washable non-ironing wool suit, which is processed by the above manufacturing method.

[0041] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following beneficial effects:

[0042] 1. The manufacturing method of the present application sprays non-ironing finishing liquid on the suit after sewing, adopts low-temperature pre-drying, pre-ironing and pressing, then puts the suit into a three-dimensional mannequin hanger and places it in a low-temperature setting device for dehumidification and drying. The suit is fully supported by the three-dimensional mannequin hanger, the water content of the suit is reduced to 0-10% after low-temperature setting, the setting of the wool suit is realized, then the non-ironing quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment is used for finishing, the non-ironing finishing liquid remaining in the suit is fully removed after washing, so that there is no residue on the suit. In the whole manufacturing process, the temperature and time parameters of the manufacturing process are controlled to avoid high-temperature damage to the strength of the wool fabric. The wool fabric suit prepared by the method of the present application has good wrinkle resistance, small shrinkage and excellent water washing performance.

[0043] 2. The wool fabric suit prepared by the present application can meet the standard requirements, the warp direction is greater than or equal to 10N, the weft direction is greater than or equal to 10N, the seam slitting degree is less than or equal to 0.6 cm, the warp direction is-1.5 to +1.5% in the water washing size change rate test, the weft direction is-1.0 to +1.0%, the appearance flatness after washing and drying is greater than or equal to 3.5 levels, the appearance of the seam after washing and drying is greater than or equal to 3 levels, the hand feeling is soft, the non-ironing effect can be maintained at 3.5-4 levels, the suit can be machine washed, the maintenance process of the wool fabric suit is simple, the work efficiency is improved, the appearance is beautiful, and the suit is more comfortable to wear. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0044] Figure 1 It is a flowchart of the manufacturing method of the machine washable non-ironing wool suit.

[0045] Figure 2 It is an appearance diagram of the suit prepared by test example 6-2.

[0046] Figure 3 It is the non-ironing effect test result of the suit prepared by test example 6-1.

[0047] Figure 4 Appearance of the suit prepared in Test Example 6-1;

[0048] Figure 5 Results of the non-ironing effect test of the suit prepared in Test Example 9; DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0049] The present application will be further described in connection with test examples and specific embodiments. However, it should be understood that the above subject matter of the present application is not limited to the following examples, and any technology realized based on the content of the present application falls within the scope of the present application.

[0050] Example 1

[0051] A machine washable non-ironing wool suit, as shown in the drawing, the manufacturing method of the suit comprises the following steps: Figure 1

[0052] Step S1, suit sewing; specifically comprising the following steps:

[0053] Step S11, cutting and lining of the wool fabric, the wool fabric is subjected to shrinkage prevention treatment, and the wool content of the wool fabric is more than 80%;

[0054] Step S12, take-up and setting-out treatment; the setting-out treatment value is 0.4-1 cm;

[0055] Step S13, chest lining and braid insertion of the suit;

[0056] Step S14, perform overhanging and tacking, then sew darts, make bottom hem, and shoulder seam;

[0057] Step S15, collar and sleeve setting process;

[0058] Step S16, iron the suit, then button it up;

[0059] Step S2, spray the non-ironing finishing liquid, so that the liquid content of the suit is 70-90%;

[0060] Step S3, low temperature pre-drying, the water content of the suit after pre-drying is controlled at 20-30%; the low temperature pre-drying conditions are: temperature 40-60°C, time 15-30 min;

[0061] Step S4, press and iron the suit to pre-set the shape;

[0062] ​Step S5, the suit is put into the three-dimensional mannequin hanger and placed in the low-temperature setting device for dehumidification and drying, and after completion, the moisture content of the suit is 0-10%; the low-temperature setting device is set at a temperature of 40-70°C and a relative humidity of 10-20%, and the low-temperature setting time is 10-30 min;

[0063] Step S6, the suit is finished in the non-iron quick-freezing cold-air finishing device; the non-iron quick-freezing cold-air finishing device is set at a temperature of -5-0°C and a time of 6-12 min;

[0064] Step S7, after washing and finishing and drying, the machine-washable non-iron suit is obtained.

[0065] The wool content of the wool fabric in the embodiment is more than 95%, and more preferably, the wool fabric is a full-wool fabric. In the embodiment, the fabric used for the suit is a full-wool fabric, the full-wool fabric is made of super 120-140S Australian wool, is subjected to shrink-proof treatment, is made into 84 / 2-94 / 2 yarn, and is made into a machine-washable non-iron wool fabric with a density of 366*318-418*382 and a grammage of 250-275 G / M.

[0066] Further, in step S12, before the lining is adhered, the cut wool fabric needs to be marked with lines, the marking with lines is used for positioning and marking, and the marking with lines needs to be removed in the subsequent suit sewing process. The marking with lines is made of white cotton thread, one long and two short, the long cotton thread has a stitch length of 2-3 cm, the short cotton thread has a stitch length of 0.3-0.5 cm, and the marking with lines is made at positions such as front and back panels, sleeves, back seams, and bottom edges. The lining is made of water-washable polyester fiber adhesive lining. When machine washing is performed, the water-washable polyester fiber adhesive lining can effectively stabilize the suit structure and three-dimensional effect. In the lining process, the fabric at positions such as the body, lapel, collar, and pocket cover is adhered, and an automatic lining pressing machine is used for the lining operation.

[0067] In the tailoring process, the chest is tailored, the back is sewn, the side seams are sewn, the start and end thread ends are knotted, and the thread ends are kept within 0.5 cm. The overall tailoring requirement is that a skilled tailor keeps the tailoring line straight and smooth, and the start and end thread ends are kept firm and do not fall off. The tailoring line used in the tailoring process is shrink-proof core-spun polyester thread, and the single-thread breaking strength of the tailoring line is not less than 720 cN / 50 cm. Specifically, the tailoring line is 502 core-spun thread.

[0068] The pulling operation is one of the key steps in the preparation of a suit, and the pulling treatment value of the present application is 0.5-0.8 cm; the present application adopts the pulling process to preliminarily shape the suit for high wool fabric or pure wool fabric, the pulling is performed on the front piece, the back piece, the sleeve piece and the hanging piece by using a special pulling and ironing machine for suits, the pulling range value is controlled by an employee according to a model at the position requiring pulling during operation, the inventor finds through multiple tests that when the pulling range value is controlled within the range of 0.5-0.8 cm, the three-dimensional shape of the suit is better, and the version of the suit is more erect.

[0069] In step S13, a front chest is provided with a layer of non-woven fabric lining, and a basted piece is sewn at the turning-over position of the suit lapel. The present application adopts a layer of non-woven fabric lining in the front chest, and the non-woven fabric lining has machine washability. The prior art adopts two or three layers of non-woven fabric lining in the front chest, which can increase the thickness of the front chest part, so that the suit is more three-dimensional and erect, but the front chest is too thick, and the front chest part dries more slowly than other parts of the suit during machine washing, which causes wrinkles to easily occur in the front chest part and poor machine washability. The present application adjusts the number of layers and the thickness of the front chest lining to firstly ensure the three-dimensional requirements of the front chest, and simultaneously adjust the drying time of each part of the suit to be different, thereby reducing the possibility of deformation of the front chest during machine washing.

[0070] The present application also vertically provides a basted piece on the fold formed at the connection between the front chest and the lapel structure, the basted piece is vertically arranged, the thickness and width of the basted piece are adjusted to make the lapel not rigid after turning over, not be ironed to death, look more natural and flexible, and not be raised up; meanwhile, the dissolved position can be arranged in the basted piece during hot pressing of the basted piece, thereby effectively solving the problems of deformation and bubbles of the fabric caused by the dissolved position, and the structure is simple and convenient to operate. In this step, the basted piece has a pick seam line, the front chest lining is fixed by using a person machine and a click machine according to the requirements of the order, then the front chest tightness is adjusted by using the click machine, and then the pick seam line is fixed.

[0071] In step S13, a hand towel bag and a large bag are opened on the suit before the front chest lining, and a lining bag and a spliced ear piece are opened on the suit after the basted piece. The method for opening the hand towel bag is as follows: the shape of the hand towel bag is ironed according to the hand towel bag template, then the size of the hand towel bag is drawn according to the hand towel bag paper pattern, the hand towel bag is sewn according to the front piece body line, and then the bag mouth is cut and ironed flat, then the bag lip edges are sealed by using a person machine, and then the bag mouth is pried by using a pry edge sewing machine. The method for opening the large bag is as follows: the bag position is drawn according to the large bag paper pattern, the infrared line is aligned with the bag position line, the size is adjusted, and the large bag is opened by using an opening bag machine. The lining bag is opened by using an automatic opening bag machine.

[0072] ​In step S14, the non-woven fabric lining is arranged at the position of the splicing seam, the non-woven fabric lining is one layer, the non-woven fabric lining is machine-washable polyester fiber, the strength of the splicing seam is increased by arranging the non-woven fabric lining, and the suit has good flatness after machine washing. The hanging surface is operated by a skilled tailor using a special machine, the hanging surface line is first drawn according to the paper pattern, the line is smoothly and evenly arranged by the skilled tailor, and the seam is evenly ironed by a mold. The shoulder seam is operated by a special machine, and the skilled tailor controls the amount of fabric according to the fabric section. In step S15, the collar is drawn according to the paper pattern, the skilled tailor accurately and smoothly arranges the line according to the drawn line, and the seam is evenly ironed by an ironing worker. The sleeve and the body are cut according to the paper pattern, the skilled tailor arranges the cut line and the seam point by point, the seam is uniform, the amount of the special machine is controlled, and the ironing worker evenly irons the uniform seam without deformation, and then the sleeve line is arranged to pop the sleeve cotton.

[0073] In step S14, the thin shoulder cotton with machine-washable is used in the shoulder seam, and the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.1-0.15 cm. The use of the thin shoulder cotton with the specified thickness has a shaping ability, which can ensure the straightness of the suit shoulder, and at the same time, reduce the thickness of the suit shoulder, so that the drying time of the suit shoulder is reduced during machine washing. The thin shoulder cotton with machine-washable is not easy to deform in washing water, and the possibility of deformation is further reduced.

[0074] After the collar and sleeve process is completed, the seam is sewn, and the keyhole is locked. The keyhole is drawn according to the paper pattern, the position of the keyhole is aligned, and the keyhole equipment is used for keyhole operation. In step S16, the suit button is pinned using the Dukp special machine, the button is automatically pinned around the foot, 8 lines per hole, the hot-melt line is used to wrap the foot, and the button is not easy to fall off. After the suit button is pinned, there is no wire head, the button is neat, and there is a three-dimensional effect.

[0075] In step S2, the non-ironing finishing liquid is commercially available, the non-ironing finishing liquid is an aqueous solution, the amount of the non-ironing finishing liquid is adjusted according to the liquid rate of the suit and the weight of the suit, 30-50 suits are put into the non-ironing finishing liquid spraying equipment, and the non-ironing finishing liquid is washed in the bidirectional rotating non-ironing finishing liquid equipment at a speed of 5-30 r / min. The pressure of the atomized non-ironing finishing liquid sprayed on the tumbling suit is 0.5-1 MPa, the liquid rate of the suit reaches 70-90%, and the finishing time is 10-30 min. In step S4, the specific method of pressing and ironing pre-shaping is that the suit is pressed and ironed by a suit pressing and ironing shaping equipment, the pressing and ironing time is 8-10 s, and the temperature is 80-100℃.

[0076] In step S7, the specific process of water washing is: adding softener washing, time 8-10 min. The role of water washing is to improve the hand feeling of the suit, wash off the thread ends on the suit, wash off the unreacted auxiliary, free formaldehyde, etc. The specific method of product drying is: placing the suit in a low-temperature setting device, setting the conditions to temperature 40-60°C, time 60-90 min, and drying to full dry. In some embodiments, the specific method is: placing the water-washed suit into a three-dimensional mannequin hanger and placing it in a low-temperature setting device for moisture extraction and drying, and after completion, the suit is full dry. The softener is a silicone softener, which is purchased from the market.

[0077] In step S7, the finished product is dried and the suit is ironed. After the above process, the suit has a three-dimensional shape and has the characteristics of no-iron and machine washable. In order to make the delivered clothing have a better appearance, the suit is ironed again to make the delivered suit have better flatness and be more upright.

[0078] Test Example 1

[0079] In order to test the effect of the three-dimensional mannequin hanger in step S5 on the no-iron effect of the finished suit, the fabric, structure and process of Example 1 are used, the difference is that the three-dimensional mannequin hanger in step S5 is different, and the conditions in step S5 of different test examples are as follows:

[0080] Test Example 1-1: The suit is put into a three-dimensional mannequin hanger.

[0081] Test Example 1-2: The suit is put into a common hanger.

[0082] The suits obtained by the above test examples are tested, and the test method of the tear strength test in the test process is GB / T3917.2-2009 pants method, the test method of the seam slitting degree test is GB / T 21294-2014, 9.2.1, load 100N; the test method of the water washing size change rate test is GB / T 8629-2017, A type washing machine, program: 4G, hanging drying; the test method of the appearance flatness test after washing and drying is GB / T 18863-2002 "non-iron textile"; the test method of the seam appearance test after washing and drying is GB / T 18863-2002 "non-iron textile", and the hand feeling test is the comprehensive feeling obtained by selecting many people to touch the above suit. The test results are as follows Table 1:

[0083] Table 1 Effect of three-dimensional mannequin hanger on no-iron effect of suit

[0084]

[0085] Note: In the water washing size change rate test, "-" means shrinkage, "+" means elongation.

[0086] According to the data in Table 1 above, the suit using the three-dimensional man-shaped clothes hanger of the present application can meet the requirements of the standard, while the suit using the common clothes hanger cannot meet the requirements of the standard in terms of tearing strength, size change rate after washing, seam slitting degree, appearance flatness after washing and drying, and appearance, and has a hard hand feeling and poor comfort. This is because the three-dimensional man-shaped clothes hanger can more comprehensively support the three-dimensional shape of the suit, is more in line with the shape of the suit when worn, can better support the suit, and can make the drying and drying wind enter the inside of the suit, quickly ventilate and discharge water vapor, improve the air flow of the inside of the suit, make the drying and drying speed of each part of the suit consistent, make the consistency of the shape of the suit in the wet state and the state after drying treatment good, thereby faster drying of the suit, suitable for drying of the suit and always maintaining the three-dimensional effect, and not existing deformation or abnormal stress caused by increase of gravity in the wet state of the suit, achieving good overall shaping effect of the suit. Without the three-dimensional clothes hanger, the suit is prone to deformation and cannot achieve the non-iron effect specified in the national standard, and the appearance flatness after washing and drying is unqualified, and it is found in the test that the front chest, shoulder position and clip ring are prone to deformation, which is caused by insufficient support of the common clothes hanger during shaping. The three-dimensional clothes hanger of the present application can completely retain the three-dimensional effect of the suit, increase the stress area of the suit, accelerate the non-iron reaction time, and enhance the non-iron effect.

[0087] Test Example 2

[0088] In order to test the effect of temperature and time of the low-temperature setting device in step S5 on the non-iron effect of the finished suit, the fabric, structure and process of Example 1 were used, and the water content of the suit after completion of low-temperature setting was about 10%, and the difference was that the temperature and time in step S5 were different. The conditions in step S5 of different test examples are as follows:

[0089] Test Example 2-1: The low-temperature setting device was set at a temperature of 40℃ and a relative humidity of 10% for 30 minutes.

[0090] Test Example 2-2: The low-temperature setting device was set at a temperature of 55℃ and a relative humidity of 10% for 25 minutes.

[0091] Test Example 2-3: The low-temperature setting device was set at a temperature of 70℃ and a relative humidity of 10% for 15 minutes.

[0092] Test Example 2-4: The low-temperature setting device was set at a temperature of 35℃ and a relative humidity of 10% for 40 minutes.

[0093] Test Example 2-5: The low-temperature setting device was set at a temperature of 80℃ and a relative humidity of 10% for 10 minutes.

[0094] The suit obtained from the above test example is tested, and the test results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0095] Table 2 Influence of setting time and temperature of low-temperature setting equipment on the non-ironing effect of the suit

[0096]

[0097]

[0098] According to the data in Table 2 above, when the water content of the suit after the completion of the low-temperature setting is maintained, the setting temperature of the low-temperature setting equipment defined in the present application is 40-70°C, and the low-temperature setting time is 10-30 min; when the setting conditions of the low-temperature setting equipment are within the range defined in the present application, the prepared suit basically meets the standard requirements, has a soft hand feeling, and can maintain a non-ironing effect of 3.5-4 levels, and can be machine washed, as in Test Examples 2-1, 2-2, and 2-3. When the temperature is lower than the temperature defined in the present application, i.e., 35°C, the setting time of the corresponding suit will increase, the tear strength and the water washing size change rate of the suit prepared in this way do not meet the standard value requirements, the seam slippage is 0.8 cm in the warp direction and 1.0 cm in the weft direction, which is much larger than the standard value requirements, the appearance flatness and the appearance level after washing and drying are also lower, and the hand feeling is hard; when the temperature is higher than the temperature defined in the present application, i.e., 80°C, the tear strength of the suit prepared in this way does not meet the standard value requirements, the seam slippage is 1.0 cm in the warp direction and 1.0 cm in the weft direction, which is also much larger than the standard value requirements, the appearance flatness and the appearance level after washing and drying are also lower, the hand feeling is dry, and the comfort is very poor. It can be seen that the temperature and time of low-temperature setting will affect the non-ironing effect of the suit, and therefore, the setting conditions of the low-temperature setting equipment, i.e., the temperature of 40-70°C, the relative humidity of 10-20%, and the low-temperature setting time of 10-30 min, are the best choices.

[0099] Test Example 3

[0100] In order to test the influence of the water content of the suit after the completion of the low-temperature setting equipment in step S5 on the non-ironing effect of the finished suit, the fabric, structure, and process of Example 1 are used, and the difference lies in that the low-temperature setting time in step S5 is different, resulting in different water contents of the prepared suit. The conditions in step S5 of different test examples are as follows:

[0101] Test Example 3-1: The setting conditions of the low-temperature setting equipment are a temperature of 55°C, a relative humidity of 10%, and a low-temperature setting time of 25 min, and the water content of the suit is 10%;

[0102] Test Example 3-2: The setting conditions of the low-temperature setting equipment are a temperature of 55°C, a relative humidity of 10%, and a low-temperature setting time of 30 min, and the water content of the suit is 7%.

[0103] Test Example 3-3: The low temperature setting device is set at a temperature of 55℃ and a relative humidity of 10%, and the low temperature setting time is 15 min, and the suit has a water content of 20%.

[0104] After the suits obtained in Test Example 3-1 and Test Example 3-2 are taken out of the low temperature setting device, no obvious water spots are found on the surface of the suits, and after the suit obtained in Test Example 3-3 is taken out of the low temperature setting device, water spots can be felt in the lining of the suit, indicating that part of the easy-care finishing liquid has not reacted and remains on the suit. The suits obtained in the above test examples are tested, and the suits of Test Example 3-1 and Test Example 3-2 both meet the requirements of the standard, while the tear strength, water washing size change rate, seam slippage degree, appearance flatness and appearance of the suit of Test Example 3-3 do not meet the requirements of the standard values.

[0105] It can be seen that the dryness of low temperature setting affects the easy-care effect of the suit. Since the suit has a certain thickness and high overall style requirements, if the dryness is insufficient, part of the easy-care finishing liquid is not fully reacted, resulting in poor setting effect of the suit, and in the subsequent machine washing process, the suit has a large deformation, and the machine washability cannot be achieved. The low temperature setting device can form a circulating hot air, which can fully contact the various parts of the garment, quickly dry the garment and achieve garment setting at the same time. After drying, the garment does not need to be ironed and set again, which can effectively improve the softness and comfort of the garment after drying, and is especially suitable for drying delicate garments, silk and wool, and can reduce damage. Achieving the appropriate dryness can improve the easy-care performance and machine washability of the suit, so the control of the water content of the suit is also to ensure the easy-care performance. The water content of the suit after the low temperature setting device is completed is 0-10%, which is the best choice, such as 5%-10%.

[0106] Test Example 4

[0107] In order to test the effect of the temperature of the easy-care quick-freezing cold air finishing device in step S6 on the easy-care effect of the finished suit, the fabric, structure and process of Example 1 are used, and the conditions in step S6 of different test examples are as follows:

[0108] Test Example 4-1: The low temperature setting device is set at a temperature of 0℃ and a time of 10 min.

[0109] Test Example 4-2: The low temperature setting device is set at a temperature of 10℃ and a time of 8 min.

[0110] Test Example 4-3: The low temperature setting device is set at a temperature of 25℃ and a time of 120 min.

[0111] The suits obtained in the above test examples are tested, and the test results are as follows in Table 3:

[0112] Table 3 Effect of temperature of easy-care quick-freezing cold air finishing device on easy-care effect of suit

[0113]

[0114]

[0115] According to the data in Table 3 above, it can be seen that, during the drying process of the finished product, too low or too high temperature has a great influence on the shrinkage, hand feeling and slitting of the full wool suit, and cannot meet the standard requirements. This is because the main component of wool fiber is protein, which cannot be dried at high temperature. After the wool is heated, the yarn is easy to become brittle, affecting the tearing and slitting degree. Therefore, the best choice is to select low temperature of 70-80°C and slow baking for 6-10 minutes. After low temperature setting of the suit, the temperature is rapidly reduced in the freezer cabinet of the no-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment, and the soft wind is beaten to improve the no-iron hand feeling. Therefore, the best choice of the no-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment setting condition is temperature -5-0°C and time 6-12min.

[0116] Test Example 5

[0117] In order to test the influence of the drying temperature of the finished product in step S7 on the no-iron effect of the finished suit, the fabric, structure and process of Example 1 are adopted, and the finished suit is completely dry after completion, the difference is the temperature in step S7, and the conditions in step S7 of different test examples are as follows:

[0118] Test Example 5-1: The low temperature setting equipment setting condition is temperature 55°C and time 60min.

[0119] Test Example 5-2: The low temperature setting equipment setting condition is temperature 35°C and time 100min.

[0120] Test Example 5-3: The low temperature setting equipment setting condition is temperature 100°C and time 50min.

[0121] The suit obtained in the above test examples is tested, and the test results are as shown in Table 4.

[0122] Table 4 Influence of finished product drying temperature on no-iron effect of suit

[0123]

[0124] According to the data in Table 4 above, it can be seen that, during the drying process of the finished product, too low or too high temperature has a great influence on the shrinkage, hand feeling and slitting of the full wool suit, and cannot meet the standard requirements. This is because the main component of wool fiber is protein, which cannot be dried at high temperature. After the wool is heated, the yarn is easy to become brittle, affecting the tearing and slitting degree. Therefore, the best choice is to select low temperature of 70-80°C and slow baking for 6-10 minutes. After low temperature setting of the suit, the temperature is rapidly reduced in the freezer cabinet of the no-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment, and the soft wind is beaten to improve the no-iron hand feeling. Therefore, the best choice of the no-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment setting condition is temperature -5-0°C and time 6-12min.

[0125] Test Example 6

[0126] In order to test the influence of setting non-woven cloth lining at the position of the splicing seam in step S14 on the non-iron effect of the finished suit, the fabric, structure and process of Example 1 are used, the thickness of the non-woven cloth lining is 0.1-0.15 cm, and the conditions in step S14 of different test examples are as follows:

[0127] Test example 6-1: no non-woven cloth lining is set at the position of the splicing seam;

[0128] Test example 6-2: one layer of non-woven cloth lining is set at the position of the splicing seam.

[0129] The above-obtained suit is tested, the suit of test example 6-2 can meet the requirements of the standard, the appearance is as shown in Figure 2 , the tearing strength and seam slitting degree of the suit of test example 6-1 do not meet the requirements of the standard value, and the test results of other tests are as shown in Figure 3 , it can be seen from the figure that the washing size change rate, the appearance flatness after washing and drying, the appearance of the joint after washing and drying and the appearance of the pleats after washing and drying do not meet the requirements of the standard value, and the appearance of the suit is as shown in Figure 4 . Setting one layer of non-woven cloth lining at the position of the splicing seam can increase the strength of the joint, so that the suit has good flatness after machine washing.

[0130] Test example 7

[0131] In order to test the influence of the shoulder cotton in step S14 on the non-iron effect of the finished suit, the fabric, structure and process of Example 1 are used, and the conditions in step S14 of different test examples are as follows:

[0132] Test example 7-1: thin shoulder cotton is used, and the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.1 cm.

[0133] Test example 7-2: thick shoulder cotton is used, and the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.5 cm.

[0134] The suits obtained in the above test examples are tested, and the test results are as shown in Table 5.

[0135] Table 5 Influence of shoulder cotton on non-iron effect of suit

[0136]

[0137]

[0138] According to the data in Table 5, it can be seen that the suit using thin shoulder cotton can meet the requirements of the standard, and when the shoulder cotton is too thick, the tearing strength and the seam slippage degree of the suit can meet the requirements of the standard, the hand feeling is soft, but the appearance flatness after washing and drying and the appearance of the seam after washing and drying cannot meet the requirements of the standard. This is because when the shoulder cotton is too thick, the thickness of the shoulder of the suit is larger than that of other parts during washing, and the drying time of the shoulder of the suit is longer, resulting in poor flatness of the suit. When thin shoulder cotton is used, the stiffness of the shoulder of the suit can be ensured, and the thickness of the shoulder of the suit is reduced, so that the drying time of the shoulder of the suit is reduced during washing, and the thin shoulder cotton is not easy to deform during washing, further reducing the possibility of deformation.

[0139] Test Example 8

[0140] In order to test the effect of the low-temperature setting step in step S5 on the non-iron effect of the finished suit, the specific preparation steps are as follows:

[0141] Step S1, suit sewing; the sewing of the suit is the same as that of Example 1;

[0142] Step S2, spraying non-iron finishing liquid to make the liquid rate of the suit reach 80%;

[0143] Step S3, low-temperature pre-drying; the water content of the suit after pre-drying is controlled at 10%; the conditions of low-temperature pre-drying are: temperature 50°C, time 40 min;

[0144] Step S4, pressing and pre-setting the suit;

[0145] Step S5, finishing the suit in the non-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment; the setting conditions of the non-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing equipment are: temperature 0°C, time 10 min;

[0146] Step S6, obtaining the suit after washing and drying.

[0147] The suit obtained in the above test example is tested, and the test results are shown in Table 6.

[0148] Table 6 Effect of low-temperature setting on non-iron effect of suit

[0149]

[0150]

[0151] According to the data in Table 6 above, it can be seen that the suit prepared without the low-temperature setting step meets the standard requirements in terms of tear strength, seam slitting degree, water washing size change rate, appearance flatness after washing and drying, and seam appearance test after washing and drying, but the hand feeling is hard and cannot meet the standard of machine washable suit. The low-temperature setting step is a key step in the preparation of machine washable non-iron wool suit, in which the suit can be fully unfolded, and the non-iron finishing liquid in the suit can better set the suit, and the suit is not easy to deform in the subsequent machine washing process.

[0152] Test Example 9

[0153] The suit of the present embodiment is made by a method similar to that disclosed in Patent Publication No. CN 114903233 A, specifically:

[0154] Step S1, suit sewing; the suit sewing is the same as in Example 1.

[0155] Step S2, water washing and non-iron liquid finishing.

[0156] Step S3, pre-drying; pre-drying temperature 50-60℃; time 15-20min; the water content of the suit is controlled at 20-30%.

[0157] Step S4, pre-ironing and pressing; pre-ironing and pressing temperature 70-80℃; wherein the pre-ironing is performed on an ironing table with air draft 1-3; the pressing time is controlled at 8-12 seconds.

[0158] Step S5, low-temperature slow baking setting treatment; baking at a temperature of 70-80℃ for 10-15 minutes, and the water content of the suit is controlled at 10-20%;

[0159] Step S6, freezing and dehumidifying treatment; dehumidifying at a temperature of 0-4℃ for 6-12 minutes, and the water content of the suit is reduced to 0-5%, i.e. basically dry.

[0160] Step S7, product washing;

[0161] Step S8, product drying, drying at 50-60℃ for 60-70 minutes to dry the suit;

[0162] Step S9, product ironing, to obtain a machine washable non-iron suit.

[0163] The suit obtained above is tested, and the tear strength and seam slitting degree of the suit do not meet the standard value requirements, and the test results of other tests are as shown in Figure 5 It can be seen from the figure that the water washing size change rate, appearance flatness after washing and drying, seam appearance after washing and drying, and pleat appearance after washing and drying do not meet the standard value requirements.

[0164] The structure of a suit and a western-style trousers is different, the suit lining, the position of the back is more, has different requirements, adopts the same process with the western-style trousers or carries on the adaptive adjustment to the process of the western-style trousers and cannot prepare the full wool machine washable non-iron suit which satisfies the standard requirements. The present application obtains the targeted optimization design suit manufacturing scheme by using different temperature and time to improve the hand feeling and the slitting degree through different tests, adopts the technical parameters specified in the present application to make the suit form a stable structure, has excellent non-iron, machine washable performance, can keep good version after washing many times, the hand feeling is softer, further improves the quality of the suit.

[0165] The above only describes the preferred embodiments of the present application and is not intended to limit the present application, and any modification, equivalent replacement and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present application shall be included in the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A method of making a machine washable, non-iron, wool suit, characterized in that, It comprises the following steps: Step S1, suit sewing; specifically comprising the following steps: Step S11, cutting and lining the wool fabric, and lining the fabric at the position of body, lapel, collar, and pocket cover, wherein the wool fabric is subjected to shrink-proof treatment, and the wool fabric is full wool fabric; Step S12, shrinkage and tuck treatment; the tuck treatment value is 0.5-0.8 cm; Step S13, chest lining and car embedding of the suit; Step S14, performing double lapel and pressing stop, then sewing the drape seam, making the bottom edge, shoulder joint seam, and setting a layer of non-woven fabric lining at the joint seam position; the shoulder cotton used in the shoulder joint seam is machine washable thin shoulder cotton, and the thickness of the shoulder cotton is 0.1-0.15 cm; Step S15, performing collar and sleeve fitting process; Step S16, ironing the suit, and then buttoning the buttons; Step S2, spraying the non-iron finishing liquid, so that the liquid rate of the suit reaches 70-90%; Step S3, performing low-temperature pre-drying, and controlling the water content of the suit after pre-drying to be 20-30%; Step S4, pre-setting the suit by pressing and ironing; Step S5, placing the suit on a three-dimensional mannequin hanger, and placing it in a low-temperature setting device for dehumidification and drying, so that the water content of the suit is 0-10% after completion, and the setting conditions of the low-temperature setting device are temperature 40-70℃, relative humidity 10-20%, and low-temperature setting time 10-30 min; Step S6, finishing the suit in a non-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing device, and the setting conditions of the non-iron quick-freezing cold air finishing device are temperature -5-0℃ and time 6-12 min; Step S7, obtaining the machine washable non-iron suit after water washing and drying, wherein the warp direction is ≥10N, the weft direction is ≥10N, the seam slitting degree is ≤0.6 cm, the warp direction is -1.5-+1.5% in the water washing size change rate test, the weft direction is -1.0-+1.0%, the appearance flatness after washing and drying is ≥3.5 level, the appearance of the joint after washing and drying is ≥3 level, the hand feeling is soft, and the non-iron effect can be maintained at 3.5-4 levels.

2. The method of making machine washable and non-iron wool suiting according to claim 1, wherein, The car line used for tucking is shrink-proof core-spun polyester thread, and the single thread breaking strength of the car line is not less than 720 cN / 50 cm.

3. The method of making machine washable and non-iron wool suiting according to claim 1, wherein, In step S13, the chest lining is provided with a layer of non-woven fabric lining in the front chest, and the car embedding strip is folded at the suit joint.

4. A machine washable, non-iron, wool suit characterized in that, The suit is processed by the manufacturing method of the machine washable non-iron wool suit according to any one of claims 1-3.

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