Comfortable, distressed denim fabric and method of making

Abstract

The application discloses comfortable and old-imitating jean fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles.In the spinning step, weft yarns are taken as the yarn core, and the spandex is pre-drafted in the spinning process, so that each meter of the spandex has more than three draft multiples, and the draft temperature is 150 DEG C-160 DEG C.The post-processing step includes a setting process and a fading process, and the temperature of the setting process is 160 DEG C-180 DEG C.The method makes the spandex in the weft yarns have multiple draft multiples, the same spandex has different shrinkage degrees in the setting process, can form irregular micro-protruding effects on the cloth surface, thereby forming rough lines, and the irregular micro-protruding effects can make the fabric irregularly fade in the fading process, so that the old-imitating style can be formed without high-twist yarns, the rigidity of the fabric is reduced, and the fabric has good elasticity, is convenient to stretch during movement, and is comfortable as a whole.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The application relates to a comfortable and old-look jean fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. BACKGROUND

[0002] Jean clothes have been standing on the stage of fashion clothes for more than 100 years and have an irreplaceable position in the clothing market. Traditional jean fabric is interwoven by warp yarn dyed by indigo dye and weft yarn in white. Since the indigo dye is mainly combined with the fiber through van der Waals force, only a small part of the indigo dye is combined with the fiber through hydrogen bond, so that the jean clothes made of the jean fabric have an old-look and retro style after a washing process. The washing process is a key process for realizing the additional value of the jean clothes.

[0003] Traditional jean fabric is woven by yarn with high twist, and the fibers are tightly held with each other. After fabric finishing and garment washing processes, the yarn is slightly shrunk to form a rugged pattern while realizing partial discoloration, and the discoloration effect and the pattern together constitute the old-look and retro style of the jean fabric. However, the high-twist yarn makes the fabric stiff and uncomfortable to wear, which cannot meet the market demand. SUMMARY

[0004] In order to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art, the application provides a comfortable and old-look jean fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, which can realize partial discoloration and form a rugged pattern, and make the jean fabric have a certain elasticity and be more comfortable.

[0005] The technical scheme adopted by the application to solve the technical problems is:

[0006] In a first aspect, the application provides a comfortable and old-look jean fabric manufacturing method, which comprises the steps of spinning, weaving and post-treatment. In the spinning step, core-spun yarn is used to produce weft yarn used in the weaving process. The weft yarn uses spandex as the yarn core. The spandex is pre-drafted in the spinning step of the spinning process, so that each meter of the spandex has three or more draft ratios. The spandex is heated at 150-160 DEG C before pre-drafting. The post-treatment step comprises a setting process and a discoloration process. The temperature of the setting process is 160-180 DEG C.

[0007] The application provides a comfortable and worn-out jean fabric manufacturing method, which has multiple draft multiples of spandex pre-draft in weft yarn during weaving, different shrinkage degrees of spandex in yarn after setting in the post-processing, can form irregular micro-protruding effects on the fabric surface, thereby forming rough lines, and the irregular micro-protruding effects can cause the fabric to fade irregularly in the fading process, thereby forming a worn-out style without high-twist yarn, and the weft yarn itself has spandex with elasticity as the yarn core, so that the fabric has good elasticity and is convenient to stretch during exercise.

[0008] Further, the draft multiple is 1.1-4. Different draft multiples can be adjusted by the winding speed of the godet, and preferably, the spandex has three to six draft multiples per meter.

[0009] Further, the speed of the setting process is 20-40 m / min, and the slow speed is beneficial to the heating of the spandex in the weft yarn.

[0010] Further, the setting process in the post-processing step further comprises a singeing process, the temperature of the singeing process is 300 DEG C, and the speed is 70-85 m / min.

[0011] Singeing can reduce the fiber fluff on the fabric surface, so as to avoid the occurrence of color staining caused by the presence of more fiber fluff in the subsequent fading process. The lower singeing temperature and the faster singeing speed can avoid the relaxation of the spandex after setting.

[0012] Further, the post-processing step comprises the setting process, the desizing process and the fading process in sequence.

[0013] In order to facilitate weaving, the yarn usually needs to be sized to improve toughness and reduce fluff, so that desizing treatment is needed after weaving. In the prior art, desizing is generally performed before setting, and the application needs to maintain different elasticities of the same spandex at different positions. Desizing can cause the fiber to expand, which can cause the spandex to relax. The application adopts the mode of setting first and then desizing, which can maintain different shrinkage properties of the yarn core in the post-processing, thereby maintaining the micro-protruding effect.

[0014] Further, the post-processing step further comprises an alkali treatment process after the fading process, in the alkali treatment process, the Baume degree of the alkali solution is 20-45, the tension applied to the fabric is controlled to be 210-300 N, the treatment temperature is 30-50 DEG C, and the time is 20-60 min. The alkali treatment process can increase the bending degree of the yarn, so that the micro-protruding effect of the yarn is more obvious.

[0015] Further, the desizing process is loose desizing, the desizing enzyme concentration is 6-10 g / L, the penetrant concentration is 1-2 g / L, and the treatment temperature is 50-60 DEG C, and the treatment time is 8-10 min.

[0016] Further, the fading process comprises the following steps: first, immersing the grey fabric in a sodium hypochlorite solution, and then putting the grey fabric into a washing machine for treatment, during which 0.5-2 m3 / min ozone is introduced, and ice blocks are added.

[0017] In the fading process, the sodium hypochlorite and the ozone have strong oxidizing effects, and during washing, the ice blocks continuously rub against the surface of the fabric, the micro-protrusions are more in contact with the ice blocks than the non-protrusions, and the micro-protrusions are more abraded and faded, which is more conducive to forming the local worn-out effect.

[0018] Further, the sodium hypochlorite solution contains 2-4 g / L sodium hypochlorite and 1-2 g / L sodium hydroxide.

[0019] Further, the volume of the ice blocks before melting is 25-30 cm 3 -30cm 3 , and 5-10 kg ice blocks are used for each piece of fabric.

[0020] Further, the twist factor of the weft yarn is 3.0-4.8.

[0021] In the weaving step, the draft multiples of adjacent weft yarn segments in the warp direction are not equal.

[0022] In the second aspect, the application provides a comfortable worn-out jean fabric made by the comfortable worn-out jean fabric manufacturing method.

[0023] The comfortable worn-out jean fabric manufacturing method has the following advantages: the pre-draft of the spandex in the weft yarn has multiple draft multiples during weaving, the shrinkage degrees of different sections of the same spandex in the yarn after setting in the post-treatment are different, the irregular micro-protrusion effect is formed on the fabric surface, the coarse and rugged lines are formed, the irregular micro-protrusion effect causes the fabric to fade irregularly in the fading process, the worn-out style is formed without high-twist yarn, the stiffness of the fabric is reduced, the weft yarn itself has spandex as the yarn core, the fabric has good elasticity, is easy to stretch during movement, and the overall fabric is comfortable.

[0024] Other features and advantages of the present application will be set forth in the description that follows, and in part will be apparent from the description, or can be learned by practice of the application. The purposes and other advantages of the present application will be realized and attained by the structure particularly pointed out in the written description and claims hereof as well as the appended drawings. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0025] Figure 1 is a flow chart of a comfortable and worn-out jean fabric manufacturing method provided by an embodiment of the present application.

[0026] Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of an arrangement of weft yarns with different stretch factors of spandex in a comfortable and worn-out jean fabric provided by an embodiment of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0027] To make the objects, technical solutions, and advantages of the embodiments of the present disclosure clearer, the following will be combined with the drawings of the embodiments of the present disclosure to make a clear and complete description of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present disclosure. Obviously, the described embodiments are part of the embodiments of the present disclosure, rather than all the embodiments. Based on the described embodiments of the present disclosure, all other embodiments obtained by a person of ordinary skill in the art without any inventive effort belong to the scope of protection of the present disclosure.

[0028] It should be understood that any and all embodiments of the present application can be combined with the technical features in any other embodiment or multiple other embodiments to obtain another embodiment without conflict. The present application includes such combinations to obtain another embodiment.

[0029] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as those commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs. If there are multiple definitions for a term, the definition herein shall prevail.

[0030] It should be understood that the singular forms used in the present application, such as "a", include plural referents, unless otherwise specified. In addition, the term "comprising" is an open-ended limitation and is not closed, i.e., includes the contents indicated by the present application, but does not exclude other aspects.

[0031] In the prior art, high-twist yarns are usually used to weave jean fabrics to achieve the worn-out and retro effect of the jean fabrics. However, high-twist yarns will cause the fabric to be stiff and not comfortable. There are also cases in the industry of weaving with two weft yarns with different properties, for example, weaving high-twist inelastic yarns and elastic yarns in a certain proportion. Although this can make the fabric have a certain elasticity, the high-twist inelastic yarns have a jarring hand touch.

[0032] To this end, the application provides a comfortable and worn-out jean fabric manufacturing method, which comprises spinning, weaving and post-processing. The spinning step comprises opening process, carding process, drawing process, roving process and spinning process. For warp yarn, the five processes are consistent with the prior art. For weft yarn, the first four processes are consistent with the prior art, and in the spinning process, the core-spun yarn is used, the spandex is covered in the outer fiber, and before covering, the spandex is pre-drafted so that each meter of spandex has more than three draft multiples, and before pre-drafting, the spandex is treated at a high temperature of 150-160°C. The post-processing step comprises setting process and fading process, and the temperature of the setting process is 160-180°C.

[0033] The comfortable and worn-out jean fabric manufacturing method of the application has multiple draft multiples of the spandex in the weft yarn during weaving, and the setting process in the post-processing makes the shrinkage degrees of the same spandex in the weft yarn different, so that the irregular micro-protruding effect is formed on the fabric surface, thereby forming the rough and rugged lines. In the fading process, the contact effect of the materials used in the fading process is different between the position with micro-protrusion and the position without micro-protrusion on the fabric, so that the fabric is irregularly faded in the fading process, and the weft yarn itself has the spandex with elasticity as the core, so that the fabric has good elasticity and is convenient to stretch during movement, so that the fabric as a whole is more comfortable.

[0034] Specifically, the outer fiber of the weft yarn is cotton fiber. The twist factor of the weft yarn is 3.0-4.8. If the twist of the weft yarn is too small, it is not conducive to locking the different shrinkage effects of the core spandex in different sections, and the twist factor of 3.0-4.8 enables the application to form the worn-out style without high twist yarn, thereby reducing the stiffness of the fabric.

[0035] Preferably, the draft multiple is 1.1-4. As an example, the weft yarn arrangement in a local range of the fabric is shown in FIG. 1, Figure 2 wherein the horizontal bars represent the weft yarn, Figure 2 and the six weft yarns are shown together, Figure 2 the division in the weft yarn in FIG. 1 shows that the weft yarn has different draft multiples in different sections, Figure 2 and the numbers in the weft yarn in FIG. 1 represent the draft multiples of the spandex in the section. As shown in the case of FIG. 1, Figure 2 the spandex in each weft yarn has several different draft multiples, and in the warp direction, the draft multiples of adjacent weft yarn sections are also not equal, and after setting, the shrinkage degrees of the weft yarn in this local range are different, so that the pulling degrees of the warp yarn are also different, thereby forming the irregular lines with micro-protrusion. Figure 2

[0036] ​Different draft ratios can be adjusted by the winding speed of the godet. For example, the existing art adds a spandex setting device in the spinning machine, and the godet in the spandex setting device is intermittently speeded up by a preset program. Before pre-drafting, the spandex is subjected to high-temperature treatment at 150-160°C to make the spandex form relatively stable, facilitating the adjustment of the draft ratio.

[0037] In the prior art, the denim fabric is subjected to washing treatment after being cut and sewn into a garment. The traditional denim fabric post-processing procedure includes singeing, desizing and preshrinking. Referring to Figure 1 The post-processing of the embodiments of the present application can sequentially include a singeing procedure, a setting procedure, a desizing procedure, a fading procedure, an alkali treatment procedure, a cleaning procedure, a drying procedure and a preshrinking procedure.

[0038] Singeing can reduce the fiber fluff on the surface of the gray fabric to prevent the subsequent fading procedure from causing staining due to the presence of a large amount of fiber fluff. In the embodiments of the present application, the speed of the setting procedure is 20-40 m / min, and the setting is performed at a relatively slow speed, which is conducive to the full heating of the spandex in the weft yarn. The temperature of the singeing procedure is 300°C, and the speed is 70-85 m / min, and the front and back surfaces are each singed once. The use of a lower singeing temperature and a faster singeing speed can avoid the relaxation of the spandex after setting.

[0039] In order to facilitate weaving, the yarn usually needs to be sized to improve toughness and reduce fluff, but the fabric with sizing is hard, so desizing treatment is needed after weaving. In the prior art, if the yarn contains spandex, the order of post-processing should be desizing first and setting second, so that the fabric has synchronous shrinkage effect and is flat. However, the present application needs to maintain different elasticities of the same spandex at different positions, and desizing will make the fiber expand, which will cause the spandex to relax. The present application adopts the mode of setting first and then desizing, which can maintain different shrinkage properties of the yarn core in the post-processing, thereby maintaining the micro-protrusion effect.

[0040] Specifically, the desizing procedure is loose desizing, the desizing enzyme concentration is 6-10 g / L, the penetrant concentration is 1-2 g / L, the treatment temperature is 50-60°C, and the treatment time is 8-10 min. After the fabric is subjected to the setting treatment, the spandex in the yarn has different degrees of shrinkage, and after the loose desizing treatment, the sizing on the surface of the fabric is removed, and at the same time, the fiber in the yarn is transferred, and the fabric is also shrunk due to the pulling of the weft yarn, so that the warp yarn or the weft yarn forms irregular micro-protrusions on the surface of the fabric. For example, at the warp organization points, the warp yarn is covered on the weft yarn, and due to the different degrees of shrinkage of the weft yarn, the warp yarn is arched on the surface of the fabric. When the fading procedure is performed in the subsequent process, an irregular fading effect is presented, realizing the retro style.

[0041] The bleaching process includes, first, immersing the cloth in a sodium hypochlorite solution, then putting the cloth into a washing machine for treatment, the treatment time is 5-10 minutes, during which 0.5-2 m3 / min ozone is introduced, and ice is added. Specifically, the sodium hypochlorite solution contains 2-4 g / L sodium hypochlorite and 1-2 g / L sodium hydroxide. The volume of the ice before melting is 25-30 cm 3 -30cm 3 , 5-10 kg of ice is used for each piece of cloth.

[0042] In the bleaching process, sodium hypochlorite and ozone play a strong oxidizing role, and during washing, the ice constantly rubs against the surface of the fabric, the micro-bulge part is more in contact with the ice than the non-bulge part, and the micro-bulge part is more worn and faded, which can form a stone-washing-like aging effect. No stones are needed, the ice will eventually melt into water, no special separation operation is needed, and only washing and drying are needed afterwards.

[0043] In the alkali treatment process, the Baume degree of the alkali solution is 20-45, the tension applied to the fabric is controlled to be 210-300 N, the treatment temperature is 30-50℃, and the time is 20-60 min. The alkali treatment process can increase the bending degree of the yarn, making the micro-bulge effect of the yarn more obvious.

[0044] In the washing process, 40-45℃ water is used, and the treatment time is 5-10 min.

[0045] In the drying process, the drying temperature is 80-110℃, and the treatment time is 5-10 min.

[0046] The pre-shrinking process usually uses steam treatment, and the main function is to control the fabric width.

[0047] In the post-treatment process after the setting process, the treatment temperature is lower than the softening point of spandex, so it will not affect the micro-bulge effect.

[0048] Implementation case

[0049] The warp yarn uses 10S cotton Tencel blended yarn, the weft yarn uses 10S core-spun yarn, the covering yarn is cotton fiber, and the core yarn is 40D spandex. Each meter of spandex has 4 kinds of draft multiples, which directly change from 1.1 to 4.0, and in the warp direction, the draft multiples of adjacent weft yarn segments are not equal. After weaving, the fabric is sequentially subjected to the singeing process, the setting process, the desizing process, the bleaching process, the alkali treatment process, the washing process, the drying process and the pre-shrinking process. The surface of the fabric has irregular micro-bulges due to the different degrees of shrinkage of the yarn, and has an irregular fading effect, achieving a retro style. The fabric is tested for bending stiffness, and the bending stiffness of the fabric is 0.1637 cN.cm, which is significantly smaller than that of similar denim fabrics on the market.

[0050] Comparative Example 1

[0051] The warp yarns are 10S cotton Tencel blended yarns, the weft yarns are 10S core-spun yarns, the covering yarns are cotton fibers, and the core yarns are 40D spandex, the draft ratio of the spandex is 2.3. After weaving, the fabric is subjected to the processes of singeing, setting, desizing, color removal, alkali treatment, cleaning, drying, and preshrinking in sequence to produce a fabric. The fabric surface is flat, the color of the fabric surface as a whole is lightened, and the worn-out effect cannot be directly achieved before garment making.

[0052] The embodiments of the present application are woven by side-by-side single yarns with different elastic properties, the fabric shrinks to different degrees after finishing, thereby forming irregular micro-protrusion effects, and irregular color removal effects are easy to appear after the color removal process, thereby making a worn-out and retro style.

[0053] In the description of the present specification, the description referring to the terms "one embodiment", "certain embodiments", "illustrative embodiments", "example", "specific example", or "some examples" means that the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described in connection with the described embodiment or example are included in at least one embodiment or example of the present application. In the present specification, the illustrative description of the above terms does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Moreover, the described specific features, structures, materials or characteristics can be combined in any one or more embodiments or examples in a suitable manner.

[0054] The above is the preferred embodiment of the present application, it should be noted that for those skilled in the art, without departing from the principles of the present application, can make a number of improvements and refinements, these improvements and refinements are also considered to be within the scope of protection of the present application.

Claims

1. A method for producing comfortable distressed denim fabric, comprising the steps of spinning, weaving, and finishing, characterized in that, In the spinning step, the weft yarn used in the weaving process is produced by core-spun yarn spinning. The weft yarn uses spandex as the yarn core. The spandex is pre-stretched in the fine spinning process of the spinning step so that each meter of spandex has three or more stretch ratios. Before pre-stretching, it is heated at 150℃-160℃. The post-treatment step includes a setting process and a bleaching process. The temperature of the setting process is 160℃-180℃. The draw ratio is 1.1-4; The twist coefficient of the weft yarn is 3.0-4.8; The post-processing steps include, in sequence, the shaping process, the desizing process, and the fading process; In the weaving process, the draft ratios of adjacent weft yarn segments are not equal in the warp direction.

2. The method for producing comfortable distressed denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The speed of the machine in the shaping process is 20m / min-40m / min.

3. The method for producing comfortable distressed denim fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, The post-processing steps include a singeing process before the shaping process, wherein the singeing process is carried out at a temperature of 300°C and a speed of 70m / min-85m / min.

4. The method for producing comfortable distressed denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the post-processing steps, after the fading process, there is also an alkali treatment process. In the alkali treatment process, the Baumé degree of the alkali solution is 20-45, the tension applied to the fabric is controlled at 210N-300N, the treatment temperature is 30℃-50℃, and the time is 20min-60min.

5. The method for producing comfortable distressed denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The desizing process is a loose desizing process, with a desizing enzyme concentration of 6g / L-10g / L, a penetrant concentration of 1g / L-2g / L, a treatment temperature of 50℃-60℃, and a treatment time of 8min-10min.

6. The method for producing comfortable distressed denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The fading process includes first soaking the fabric in sodium hypochlorite solution, then placing the fabric in a washing machine for 5-10 minutes, during which ozone at a rate of 0.5-2 m³ / min is introduced, and ice is added.

7. A comfortable distressed denim fabric, characterized in that, Made by the method of producing comfortable distressed denim fabric as described in any one of claims 1 to 6.

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