Pattern making method of fit raglan sleeve upper garment

By adjusting the shape and angle of the sleeves in the plate making method of rabosone sleeve tops, the problem of traditional rabosone sleeve clothing piled up under the armpits when the arms are lowered is solved, achieving a more comfortable and beautiful wearing effect.

CN119111893APending Publication Date: 2024-12-13JIHUA 3502 PROFESSIONAL GARMENT
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202411260780.3
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-09-10
Publication Date
2024-12-13

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Traditional raglan sleeve clothing is prone to accumulation of wrinkles under the armpits when the arms are lowered, which makes it uncomfortable and unsightly, especially for slightly fat people, it looks bloated and unscrupulous.

Method used

Using a combination raglan sleeve top, the shape and angle of the sleeve are adjusted by determining the position and shape of the raglan sleeve on the back and front raglan sleeves, and combining the overall raglan sleeves to make the plate to adjust the shape and angle of the sleeves to reduce the Accumulators and bulge to improve wear comfort and aesthetics. The specific steps include making specific arcs and perpendicular lines on the back coat sample, adjusting the angle and length of the cuffs, and designing them accordingly on the front coat sample to ensure that the overall sleeve fits the human body when worn.

Benefits of technology

It effectively eliminates the accumulated folds under the armpit, improves the comfort and aesthetics of wearing, makes the shoulders more suitable for people of different body types.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a pattern making method of a combined raglan sleeve upper garment. The pattern making method comprises the following steps of S1, making a basic rear garment piece pattern and a basic front garment piece pattern; s2, determining the position and the shape of a rear shoulder sleeve on the rear garment piece basic template; s3, determining the position and the shape of a front raglan sleeve on the front garment piece basic template; s4, combining the rear raglan sleeves and the front raglan sleeves to make integral raglan sleeves; s5, determining front and rear garment piece templates; according to the invention, the raglan sleeve is thinned, the length of the fat TM on the sleeve is reduced, and the accumulation under the armpit is eliminated; the back-inserted raglan sleeve GdM1M2TSR and the front-inserted raglan sleeve JmN1N2WVU are arranged side by side, dM1 and mN1 coincide, a G point corresponds to a J point, a point V1 is selected from a sleeve length dm1, the straight line length of dV1 is 3-4 cm, GV1 and JV1 are connected in an arc line mode, the arc lengths of JmV1 and GdV1 are equal, bumps generated around the coincident point of dm during sewing due to the angle of Gd (m) J are eliminated, the shoulders are more attached to the human body, and the garment is attractive and comfortable after being worn.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a plate making method for a fitted raglan sleeve top, belonging to the technical field of clothing. Background Art

[0002] Nowadays, people's dressing styles are diversified, such as casual style, commuting style, gentle and elegant style, etc., which meet the needs of the public for different occasions and times. Traditional raglan sleeve clothing is similar to traditional Chinese raglan sleeves. Although the arms of raglan sleeve clothing can be stretched at a large angle, a large number of wrinkles are easily accumulated under the armpits when the arms are lowered, which is not only uncomfortable but also makes slightly fat people look bloated and untidy. When the arms are raised, the armpits are not beautiful. Summary of the invention

[0003] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a method for making a pattern of a fitted raglan sleeve top which eliminates underarm accumulation and is comfortable and beautiful to wear.

[0004] The present invention adopts the following technical solution:

[0005] The present invention discloses a method for making a plate of a fitted raglan sleeve top, which comprises the following steps:

[0006] S1. Make basic back and front garment pieces;

[0007] S2. Determine the position and shape of the rear raglan sleeves on the rear garment basic pattern;

[0008] S3. Determine the position and shape of the front raglan sleeves on the front garment basic pattern;

[0009] S4, combining the back raglan sleeve and the front raglan sleeve to make an overall raglan sleeve;

[0010] S5. Determine the front and back garment pieces.

[0011] The specific operation of S1 of the present invention is as follows:

[0012] S11. Make a rectangle ABCD, with AC being the length of the back body + 2.5cm, and AB being 1 / 2 of the chest circumference + (sleeve length * 2). Take point G on line segment AB, with AG being 7.8cm long. Make a perpendicular line GF through point G downwards to AB, with GF being 2.5cm long. Make a parallel line FE through point F to AB, with FE intersecting AC at point E. The arc connects the collar line EG. EC is the length of the back garment.

[0013] S12. Take point H on line segment AB. The length of AH is 15 cm. Draw a perpendicular line HI through point H. The length of HI is 5.5 cm. Connect GI with a straight line. Take point d on line segment GI. The horizontal distance between point d and AC is 1 / 2 shoulder width. Draw a perpendicular line dc from point d to AC. dc intersects AC at point c. Then cd is the shoulder width line. Draw parallel lines ef and gh to AB. Line segments ef and gh intersect line segment AC at points e and g respectively. Line segment ef intersects line segment AC at points e and g respectively. The vertical distance of segment AB is chest circumference / 6+8.5cm, and the length of line segment ef is 1 / 4 of chest circumference; the vertical distance between line segment gh and line segment AB is 36cm+back collar depth, and the length of line segment gh is 1 / 4 of waist circumference+2cm; ef is the chest circumference line, and gh is the waist circumference line; point P is taken on line segment CD, and the length of CP is 1 / 4 of the length of the hem circumference; the arc connects the back armhole df, and the arc connects the back body seam fhp, then EGdfhPC is the basic back garment pattern;

[0014] S13. Draw a line ab parallel to line AB 1.5cm above line segment AB. AabB is a regular rectangle. Take point J on line segment ba. The length of bJ is 8cm. Draw a perpendicular line JM through point J. The length of JM is 8.5cm. Draw a line MN parallel to ab through point M. Line segment MN is 0.6cm shorter than line segment Jb. The arc connects the front collar line JN.

[0015] S14. Take point K on line segment ba, the length of JK is 15cm, draw a perpendicular line KL through point K downward to ab, the length of KL is 5cm, connect JL with a straight line, take point m on JL, the length of Jm is equal to that of Gd, then Jm is the front small shoulder line;

[0016] Make the extension line of ef intersect BD at point j, take point i on je, the length of ji is 1 / 4 of the bust, then ji is the front bust line, and the arc line connects the front armhole line mi;

[0017] Make an extension line of gh and intersect BD at point l, take point k on lg, the length of lk is 1 / 4 waist circumference + 2cm, then lk is the front waist line;

[0018] Take point Q on line segment DC, the length of DQ is 1 / 4 of the hem circumference, extend BD by 1 to 1.5 cm to point Z, connect the front hem line QZ with an arc, and connect the front body seam line ikQ with an arc. The length of ikQ is equal to that of fhP, then JNjlZQkim is the basic front garment piece pattern.

[0019] The specific operation of S2 of the present invention is as follows:

[0020] S21. On the basic back garment pattern EgdfhPC: make a dM1 line diagonally downward through point d. The length of the dM1 line is the sleeve length, and the angle of the angle IdM1 is 20° to 25°.

[0021] S22, draw a perpendicular line from point M1 to M2M1, the length of M2M1 is 1 / 2 of the cuff size, take the midpoint R of arc GE, take point S on arc fd upward from point f, the arc length of fS is 6-7cm, draw a line segment So from point S to the back seam fhp, and draw a symmetry line ST of Sf with So as the symmetry axis;

[0022] S23, connect RS with an arc in the direction of Gd, then the arc RST is the arc of the back sleeve cap, and the arc RSf is the arc of the armhole of the back garment piece; the arc connects the back sleeve bottom seam TM2;

[0023] Then GdM1M2TSR is the rear raglan sleeve.

[0024] The specific operation of S3 of the present invention is as follows:

[0025] S31. On the basic front piece pattern JNjlZQkim: make a line mN1 diagonally downward through point m. The length of mN1 is the length of the sleeve, and the angle LmN1 is 25° to 30°.

[0026] S32. Draw a perpendicular line N2N1 through point N1 to mN1. The length of N2N1 is 1 / 2 of the cuff size. Take the midpoint U of the front collar line JN. Take point V on the im line upward from point i. The arc length of iV is 9 to 10 cm. Draw a line segment Vn from point V to the front body seam ikQ. Then draw a symmetry line VW of Vi with Vn as the symmetry axis.

[0027] S33, the arc connects UV, then the arc UVW is the front sleeve cap arc, the arc UVi is the armhole arc of the front garment piece; the arc connects the front sleeve bottom seam WN2, the front sleeve bottom seam WN2 is equal in length to the back sleeve bottom seam TM2;

[0028] Then JmN1N2WVU is the front raglan sleeve.

[0029] The specific operation of S4 of the present invention is as follows:

[0030] Set the back raglan sleeve GdM1M2TSR and the front raglan sleeve JmN1N2WVU side by side, so that dM1 coincides with mN1, point G corresponds to point J, take point V1 on the sleeve length line dm1, the straight line length of dV1 is 3 to 4 cm, and connect GV1 and JV1 with arcs respectively. The arc lengths of JmV1 and GdV1 are equal; then TRGV1JUWN2M2 is the overall raglan sleeve pattern.

[0031] ERSfhPC of the present invention is the sample of the rear garment piece, and JNZQkiV is the sample of the front garment piece.

[0032] The positive effects of the present invention are as follows: on the basic back garment piece pattern EgdfhPC, the present invention makes a dM1 line obliquely downward through point d, the length of the dM1 line is the sleeve length, and the angle of the angle IdM1 is 20°-25°; on the basic front garment piece pattern JNjlZQkim, makes a mN1 line obliquely downward through point m, the length of mN1 is the sleeve length, and the angle of the angle LmN1 is 25°-30°. These two steps make the raglan sleeves thinner, that is, the length of the fat TM on the sleeves is reduced, and the accumulation under the armpits is eliminated. The back raglan sleeve GdM1M2TSR and the front raglan sleeve JmN1N2WVU are arranged side by side, so that dM1 coincides with mN1, point G corresponds to point J, and point V1 is taken on the sleeve length line dm1. The straight length of dV1 is 3 to 4 cm. Arc lines are used to connect GV1 and JV1 respectively. The arc lengths of JmV1 and GdV1 are equal, which eliminates the bulge around the coincidence point of dm when sewing at the angle of Gd(m)J, makes the shoulder fit the human body better, and the finished garment is beautiful and comfortable to wear. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0033] Attached Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the operation structure of the present invention;

[0034] Attached Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the raglan sleeve structure of the present invention;

[0035] Attached Figure 3 It is a schematic diagram of the structure of the front and rear garment pieces of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0036] The present invention discloses a method for making a plate of a fitted raglan sleeve top, which comprises the following steps:

[0037] S1. Make basic back and front garment pieces;

[0038] S2. Determine the position and shape of the rear raglan sleeves on the rear garment basic pattern;

[0039] S3. Determine the position and shape of the front raglan sleeves on the front garment basic pattern;

[0040] S4, combining the back raglan sleeve and the front raglan sleeve to make an overall raglan sleeve;

[0041] S5. Determine the front and back garment pieces.

[0042] As attached Figure 1 As shown, the specific operation of S1 of the present invention is as follows:

[0043] S11. Make a rectangle ABCD, with AC being the length of the back body + 2.5cm, and AB being 1 / 2 of the chest circumference + (sleeve length * 2). Take point G on line segment AB, with AG being 7.8cm long. Make a perpendicular line GF through point G downwards to AB, with GF being 2.5cm long. Make a parallel line FE through point F to AB, with FE intersecting AC at point E. The arc connects the collar line EG. EC is the length of the back garment.

[0044] S12. Take point H on line segment AB, the length of AH is 15cm, draw a perpendicular line HI through point H, the length of HI is 5.5cm, connect GI with a straight line, take point d on line segment GI, the horizontal distance between point d and AC is 1 / 2 shoulder width, draw a perpendicular line dc from point d to AC, dc intersects AC at point c, then cd is the shoulder width line; draw parallel lines ef and gh to AB, line segments ef and gh intersect line segment AC at points e and g respectively; line segment ef intersects line segment AC at points e and g respectively; The vertical distance of line segment AB is chest circumference / 6+8.5cm, and the length of line segment ef is 1 / 4 of chest circumference; the vertical distance between line segment gh and line segment distance AB is 36cm+back collar depth, and the length of line segment gh is 1 / 4 of waist circumference+2cm; ef is the chest circumference line, and gh is the waist circumference line; point P is taken on line segment CD, and the length of CP is 1 / 4 of the length of the hem circumference; the arc connects the back armhole df, and the arc connects the back body seam fhp, then EGdfhPC is the basic back garment pattern;

[0045] S13. Draw a line ab parallel to line AB 1.5cm above line segment AB. AabB is a regular rectangle. Take point J on line segment ba. The length of bJ is 8cm. Draw a perpendicular line JM through point J. The length of JM is 8.5cm. Draw a line MN parallel to ab through point M. Line segment MN is 0.6cm shorter than line segment Jb. The arc connects the front collar line JN.

[0046] S14. Take point K on line segment ba, the length of JK is 15cm, draw a perpendicular line KL through point K downward to ab, the length of KL is 5cm, connect JL with a straight line, take point m on JL, the length of Jm is equal to that of Gd, then Jm is the front small shoulder line;

[0047] Make the extension line of ef intersect BD at point j, take point i on je, the length of ji is 1 / 4 of the bust, then ji is the front bust line, and the arc line connects the front armhole line mi;

[0048] Make an extension line of gh and intersect BD at point l, take point k on lg, the length of lk is 1 / 4 waist circumference + 2cm, then lk is the front waist line;

[0049] Take point Q on line segment DC, the length of DQ is 1 / 4 of the hem circumference, extend BD by 1 to 1.5 cm to point Z, connect the front hem line QZ with an arc, and connect the front body seam line ikQ with an arc. The length of ikQ is equal to that of fhP, then JNjlZQkim is the basic front garment piece pattern.

[0050] The specific operation of S2 of the present invention is as follows:

[0051] S21. On the basic back garment pattern EgdfhPC: make a dM1 line diagonally downward through point d. The length of the dM1 line is the sleeve length, and the angle of the angle IdM1 is 20° to 25°.

[0052] S22, draw a perpendicular line from point M1 to M2M1, the length of M2M1 is 1 / 2 of the cuff size, take the midpoint R of arc GE, take point S on arc fd upward from point f, the arc length of fS is 6-7cm, draw a line segment So from point S to the back seam fhp, and draw a symmetry line ST of Sf with So as the symmetry axis;

[0053] S23, connect RS with an arc in the direction of Gd, then the arc RST is the arc of the back sleeve cap, and the arc RSf is the arc of the armhole of the back garment piece; the arc connects the back sleeve bottom seam TM2;

[0054] Then GdM1M2TSR is the rear raglan sleeve;

[0055] The specific operation of S3 of the present invention is as follows:

[0056] S31. On the basic front piece JNjlZQkim: draw a line mN1 diagonally downward through point m. The length of mN1 is the sleeve length, and the angle LmN1 is 25° to 30°. Because the human arm moves forward more, the angle of the front sleeve length should be greater than the angle of the back sleeve length.

[0057] S32. Draw a perpendicular line N2N1 through point N1 to mN1. The length of N2N1 is 1 / 2 of the cuff size. Take the midpoint U of the front collar line JN. Take point V on im along point i. The arc length of iV is 9 to 10 cm. Draw a line segment Vn from point V to the front body seam ikQ. Then draw a symmetry line VW of Vi with Vn as the symmetry axis.

[0058] S33, the arc connects UV, then the arc UVW is the front sleeve cap arc of the sleeve, and the arc UVi is the armhole arc of the front garment piece; the arc connects the front sleeve bottom seam WN2, and the length of the front sleeve bottom seam WN2 is equal to the length of the back sleeve bottom seam TM2;

[0059] Then JmN1N2WVU is the front raglan sleeve.

[0060] As attached Figure 2 As shown, the specific operation of S4 of the present invention is as follows:

[0061] Set the back raglan sleeve GdM1M2TSR and the front raglan sleeve JmN1N2WVU side by side, so that dM1 coincides with mN1, point G corresponds to point J, take point V1 on the sleeve length line dm1, the straight line length of dV1 is 3 to 4 cm, and connect GV1 and JV1 with arcs respectively. The arc lengths of JmV1 and GdV1 are equal; then TRGV1JUWN2M2 is the overall raglan sleeve pattern.

[0062] As attached Figure 3 As shown, ERSfhPC is the rear garment piece sample, and JNZQkiV is the front garment piece sample.

[0063] The present invention makes a dM1 line obliquely downward through point d on a basic back garment piece pattern EgdfhPC, the length of the dM1 line is the sleeve length, and the angle of the angle IdM1 is 20°-25°; and makes a mN1 line obliquely downward through point m on a basic front garment piece pattern JNjlZQkim, the length of mN1 is the sleeve length, and the angle of the angle LmN1 is 25°-30°. These two steps make the raglan sleeve thinner, that is, the length of the fat TM on the sleeve is reduced, and the accumulation under the armpit is eliminated. The back raglan sleeve GdM1M2TSR and the front raglan sleeve JmN1N2WVU are arranged side by side, so that dM1 coincides with mN1, point G corresponds to point J, and point V1 is taken on the sleeve length line dm1. The straight length of dV1 is 3 to 4 cm. Arc lines are used to connect GV1 and JV1 respectively. The arc lengths of JmV1 and GdV1 are equal, which eliminates the bulge around the coincidence point of dm when sewing at the angle of Gd(m)J, makes the shoulder fit the human body better, and the finished garment is beautiful and comfortable to wear.

Claims

1. A method for making a plate for a fitted raglan sleeve top, characterized in that: Use the following steps: S1. Make basic back and front garment pieces; S2. Determine the position and shape of the rear raglan sleeves on the rear garment basic pattern; S3. Determine the position and shape of the front raglan sleeves on the front garment basic pattern; S4, combining the back raglan sleeve and the front raglan sleeve to make an overall raglan sleeve; S5. Determine the front and back garment pieces.

2. The method for making a pattern of a fitted raglan sleeve top according to claim 1, characterized in that S1 specifically performs the following operations: S11. Make a rectangle ABCD, with AC being the length of the back body + 2.5cm, and AB being 1 / 2 of the chest circumference + sleeve length * 2. Take point G on line segment AB, with AG being 7.8cm long. Make a perpendicular line GF through point G downwards to AB, with GF being 2.5cm long. Make a parallel line FE through point F to AB, with FE intersecting AC at point E. The arc connects the collar line EG. EC is the length of the back garment. S12. Take point H on line segment AB. The length of AH is 15 cm. Draw a perpendicular line HI through point H. The length of HI is 5.5 cm. Connect GI with a straight line. Take point d on line segment GI. The horizontal distance between point d and AC is 1 / 2 shoulder width. Draw a perpendicular line dc from point d to AC. dc intersects AC at point c. Then cd is the shoulder width line. Draw parallel lines ef and gh to AB. Line segments ef and gh intersect line segment AC at points e and g respectively. Line segment ef intersects line segment AC at points e and g respectively. The vertical distance of segment AB is chest circumference / 6+8.5cm, and the length of line segment ef is 1 / 4 of chest circumference; the vertical distance between line segment gh and line segment AB is 36cm+back collar depth, and the length of line segment gh is 1 / 4 of waist circumference+2cm; ef is the chest circumference line, and gh is the waist circumference line; point P is taken on line segment CD, and the length of CP is 1 / 4 of the length of the hem circumference; the arc connects the back armhole df, and the arc connects the back body seam fhp, then EGdfhPC is the basic back garment pattern; S13. Draw a line ab parallel to line AB 1.5cm above line segment AB. AabB is a regular rectangle. Take point J on line segment ba. The length of bJ is 8cm. Draw a perpendicular line JM through point J. The length of JM is 8.5cm. Draw a line MN parallel to ab through point M. Line segment MN is 0.6cm shorter than line segment Jb. The arc connects the front collar line JN. S14. Take point K on line segment ba, the length of JK is 15cm, draw a perpendicular line KL through point K downward to ab, the length of KL is 5cm, connect JL with a straight line, take point m on JL, the length of Jm is equal to that of Gd, then Jm is the front small shoulder line; Make the extension line of ef intersect BD at point j, take point i on je, the length of ji is 1 / 4 of the bust, then ji is the front bust line, and the arc line connects the front armhole line mi; Make an extension line of gh and intersect BD at point l, take point k on lg, the length of lk is 1 / 4 waist circumference + 2cm, then lk is the front waist line; Take point Q on line segment DC, the length of DQ is 1 / 4 of the hem circumference, extend BD by 1 to 1.5 cm to point Z, connect the front hem line QZ with an arc, and connect the front body seam line ikQ with an arc. The length of ikQ is equal to that of fhP, then JNjlZQkim is the basic front garment piece pattern.

3. The method for making a pattern of a fitted raglan sleeve top according to claim 2, characterized in that S2 specifically performs the following operations: S21. On the basic back garment pattern EgdfhPC: make a dM1 line diagonally downward through point d. The length of the dM1 line is the sleeve length, and the angle of the angle IdM1 is 20° to 25°. S22, draw a perpendicular line from point M1 to M2M1, the length of M2M1 is 1 / 2 of the cuff size, take the midpoint R of arc GE, take point S on arc fd upward from point f, the arc length of fS is 6-7cm, draw a line segment So from point S to the back seam fhp, and draw a symmetry line ST of Sf with So as the symmetry axis; S23, connect RS with an arc in the direction of Gd, then the arc RST is the arc of the back sleeve cap, and the arc RSf is the arc of the armhole of the back garment piece; the arc connects the back sleeve bottom seam TM2; Then GdM1M2TSR is the rear raglan sleeve.

4. The method for making a plate of a fitted raglan sleeve top according to claim 3, characterized in that S3 specifically performs the following operations: S31. On the basic front piece pattern JNjlZQkim: make a line mN1 diagonally downward through point m. The length of mN1 is the length of the sleeve, and the angle LmN1 is 25° to 30°. S32. Draw a perpendicular line N2N1 through point N1 to mN1. The length of N2N1 is 1 / 2 of the cuff size. Take the midpoint U of the front collar line JN. Take point V on the im line upward from point i. The arc length of iV is 9 to 10 cm. Draw a line segment Vn from point V to the front body seam ikQ. Then draw a symmetry line VW of Vi with Vn as the symmetry axis. S33, the arc connects UV, then the arc UVW is the front sleeve cap arc, the arc UVi is the armhole arc of the front garment piece; the arc connects the front sleeve bottom seam WN2, the front sleeve bottom seam WN2 is equal in length to the back sleeve bottom seam TM2; Then JmN1N2WVU is the front raglan sleeve.

5. The method for making a pattern of a fitted raglan sleeve top according to claim 4, characterized in that S4 specifically performs the following operations: Set the back raglan sleeve GdM1M2TSR and the front raglan sleeve JmN1N2WVU side by side, so that dM1 coincides with mN1, point G corresponds to point J, take point V1 on the sleeve length line dm1, the straight line length of dV1 is 3 to 4 cm, and connect GV1 and JV1 with arcs respectively. The arc lengths of JmV1 and GdV1 are equal; then TRGV1JUWN2M2 is the overall raglan sleeve pattern.

6. A method for making a pattern of a fitted raglan sleeve top according to claim 5, characterized in that ERSfhPC is a pattern of a rear garment piece, and JNZQkiV is a pattern of a front garment piece.