An active peptide composition and its application in cosmetics

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and relates to an active peptide composition and its application in cosmetics. The active peptide composition of the present invention comprises the following ingredients: acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4. The present invention distinguishes the action mechanisms of different active peptides, compounds a variety of active peptides, exerts a multi-target synergistic effect between active peptides, achieves the wrinkle removal and firming effect of the skin, and fundamentally improves the quality of the skin.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an active peptide composition and application thereof in cosmetics. Background Art

[0002] The information disclosed in this background technology section is only intended to enhance the understanding of the overall background of the invention, and should not necessarily be regarded as an admission or any form of suggestion that the information constitutes the prior art already known to a person skilled in the art.

[0003] With the development of modern society and the improvement of people's living standards, consumers' demand for cosmetics is no longer limited to simply modifying appearance, but pays more attention to the improvement and maintenance of skin health by cosmetics. Therefore, the cosmetics industry is facing the challenge of continuous innovation and improvement of product quality.

[0004] Skin aging is a complex physiological process, which is affected by endogenous factors (such as genetics, changes in cell metabolism, etc.) and exogenous factors (such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, life stress, etc.). Aging skin often shows problems such as increased wrinkles, reduced elasticity, dryness and roughness, and dull skin tone. Some ingredients in traditional cosmetics can only play a covering or limited moisturizing role on the skin surface, and it is difficult to fundamentally solve these skin aging problems. In the physiological structure of the skin, extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin are essential for maintaining the elasticity and firmness of the skin. However, with age, the synthesis of these proteins decreases and the degradation accelerates. In addition, repeated contraction of facial expressions caused by neuromuscular activity is also one of the important causes of wrinkles. At the same time, excessive production and deposition of melanin can cause skin pigmentation and affect the uniformity of skin color.

[0005] In recent years, bioactive peptides have received widespread attention in the cosmetics field. Bioactive peptides are a class of small molecule peptides with special physiological activity, which can have a positive effect on the skin through a variety of mechanisms. Different types of active peptides have different effects. For example, some active peptides can regulate the physiological activities of cells, promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin, and enhance the elasticity and firmness of the skin; some active peptides can inhibit the release of neurotransmitters, reduce muscle contraction, and thus reduce wrinkles; and some active peptides can participate in the regulation process of melanin synthesis to achieve a whitening effect.

[0006] A Chinese patent with publication number CN108852894A discloses a polypeptide combination for repairing, whitening and removing wrinkles, including palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, tripeptide-1-copper, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8, snake venom peptide, bee venom peptide, nonapeptide-1, carnosine, tetrapeptide-30, small molecule active substances, skin care active agents, pH regulators, adjuvants, and water. The Chinese patent published as CN111035609A discloses a small molecule polypeptide eye essence, including the following components: an oligopeptide mixture, a small molecule polypeptide mixture, a stem cell mixture, deep sea collagen powder and an adjuvant; the oligopeptide mixture is composed of oligopeptide-1, oligopeptide-3, oligopeptide-4 and oligopeptide-5; the small molecule polypeptide mixture is composed of tripeptide-1 copper, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, dipeptide-2, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and carnosine.

[0007] However, the shelf life of polypeptide cosmetics is relatively short. After opening, the shelf life is generally 3 to 6 months, or even shorter. The storage conditions are also relatively strict. High temperature, high humidity, and light will accelerate the degradation and deterioration of polypeptides, so they need to be avoided. Summary of the invention

[0008] To overcome the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention provides an active peptide composition with high stability and excellent anti-wrinkle and firming effects, and its application in cosmetics.

[0009] Specifically, the active peptide composition includes the following ingredients: 0.01 to 10 parts by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of tripeptide-1, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and 0.01 to 10 parts by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.

[0010] Furthermore, the acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 1 to 5 parts by weight; the tripeptide-1 is 0.1 to 1 part by weight; the tripeptide-1 copper is 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight; the palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is 0.1 to 1 part by weight; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is 1 to 5 parts by weight.

[0011] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the above active peptide composition, characterized in that the preparation method is as follows:

[0012] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add 0.1-0.5 mol / l dithiothreitol buffer solution to adjust the pH to 4.5-6.5, and use it as the aqueous phase solution;

[0013] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 0.5-10 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 10-50 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 0.5-15 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0014] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, heat in a water bath and rotary evaporate until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product;

[0015] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0016] Furthermore, the buffer solution is selected from one of lactic acid-sodium lactate buffer solution, citrate buffer solution, and phosphate buffer solution. The temperature control of the rotary evaporation in step C is a. heating to 30°C for 10 minutes; b. heating to 40°C for 10 minutes; c. cooling to 5°C for 15 minutes; d. heating to 45°C until there is no distillate.

[0017] The present invention also provides the use of the active peptide composition in cosmetics, and the cosmetics include but are not limited to lotions, essences, face creams, eye creams, toners, and neck creams.

[0018] Compared with the prior art, the technical effects of the present invention are:

[0019] The active peptide composition of the present invention comprises five small molecule peptides, namely, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, and has skin care effects such as anti-wrinkle and firming, and can fundamentally improve the quality of the skin.

[0020] The present invention improves the preparation method, utilizes lipid materials such as egg yolk lecithin to encapsulate small molecule peptides, improves the buffer solution in the aqueous phase, and creatively adds dithiothreitol to protect the small molecule peptides, thereby extending the shelf life of polypeptide cosmetics. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0021] Figure 1 : Changes in tripeptide-1 copper content in active peptide compositions.

[0022] Figure 2 : Changes in the content of acetyl hexapeptide-8 in the active peptide composition.

[0023] Figure 3 : Changes in the content of tripeptide-1 in the active peptide composition.

[0024] Figure 4 : Changes in the content of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 in the active peptide composition.

[0025] Figure 5 : Changes in the content of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 in the active peptide composition.

[0026] Figure 6 : F4 value characterizing the skin firmness of the subjects. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0027] In order to make the purpose and technical solution of the present invention clearer, the present invention is further described below in conjunction with embodiments, but the protection scope of the present invention is not limited to these embodiments, and the embodiments are only used to explain the present invention. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any changes or equivalent substitutions that do not deviate from the concept of the present invention are included in the protection scope of the present invention.

[0028] Example 1 Active peptide composition

[0029] formula:

[0030]

[0031] Preparation method:

[0032] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add 0.25 mol / l dithiothreitol (CAS: 3483-12-3) lactic acid-sodium lactate buffer solution to adjust pH to 5.0, as the aqueous phase solution;

[0033] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 2 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 25 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 2 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0034] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, and perform water bath heating and rotary evaporation. The temperature control is as follows: a. heating to 30°C for 10 min; b. heating to 40°C for 10 min; c. cooling to 5°C for 15 min; d. heating to 45°C until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product;

[0035] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0036] Example 2 Active peptide composition

[0037] formula:

[0038]

[0039] Preparation method:

[0040] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add 0.35 mol / l dithiothreitol lactic acid-sodium lactate buffer solution to adjust pH to 5.0, and use this as the aqueous phase solution;

[0041] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 5 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 35 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 10 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0042] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, and perform water bath heating and rotary evaporation. The temperature control is as follows: a. heating to 30°C for 10 min; b. heating to 40°C for 10 min; c. cooling to 5°C for 15 min; d. heating to 45°C until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product;

[0043] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0044] Example 3 Active peptide composition

[0045] formula:

[0046]

[0047] Preparation method:

[0048] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add 0.1 mol / l dithiothreitol citrate buffer solution to adjust the pH to 4.5, and use it as the aqueous phase solution;

[0049] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 0.5 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 10 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 0.5 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0050] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, and perform water bath heating and rotary evaporation. The temperature control is as follows: a. heating to 30°C for 10 min; b. heating to 40°C for 10 min; c. cooling to 5°C for 15 min; d. heating to 45°C until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product;

[0051] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0052] Example 4 Active peptide composition

[0053] formula:

[0054]

[0055] 0.01 to 10 parts by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of tripeptide-1, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and 0.01 to 10 parts by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.

[0056] Preparation method:

[0057] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add 0.5 mol / l dithiothreitol phosphate buffer solution to adjust the pH to 6.5, and use it as the aqueous phase solution;

[0058] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 10 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 50 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 15 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0059] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, and perform water bath heating and rotary evaporation. The temperature control is as follows: a. heating to 30°C for 10 min; b. heating to 40°C for 10 min; c. cooling to 5°C for 15 min; d. heating to 45°C until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product;

[0060] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0061] Comparative Example 1 Active peptide composition

[0062] formula:

[0063]

[0064] Preparation method:

[0065] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add lactic acid-sodium lactate buffer solution to adjust the pH to 5.0, and use it as the aqueous phase solution;

[0066] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 2 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 25 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 2 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0067] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, and perform water bath heating and rotary evaporation. The temperature control is as follows: a. heating to 30°C for 10 min; b. heating to 40°C for 10 min; c. cooling to 5°C for 15 min; d. heating to 45°C until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product;

[0068] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0069] Comparative Example 2 Active Peptide Composition

[0070] formula:

[0071]

[0072] Preparation method:

[0073] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in a 0.25 mol / l dithiothreitol aqueous solution, add lactic acid-sodium lactate buffer solution to adjust the pH to 5.0, and use the aqueous phase solution as the solution;

[0074] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 2 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 25 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 2 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0075] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, and perform water bath heating and rotary evaporation. The temperature control is as follows: a. heating to 30°C for 10 min; b. heating to 40°C for 10 min; c. cooling to 5°C for 15 min; d. heating to 45°C until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product;

[0076] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0077] Comparative Example 3 Active Peptide Composition

[0078] formula:

[0079]

[0080] Preparation method:

[0081] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add 0.25 mol / l dithiothreitol lactic acid-sodium lactate buffer solution to adjust pH to 5.0, and use this as the aqueous phase solution;

[0082] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 2 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 25 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 2 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0083] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, heat in a water bath at 40°C and perform rotary evaporation until no distillate is produced to obtain a crude product;

[0084] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0085] Comparative Example 4 Active Peptide Composition

[0086] formula:

[0087]

[0088] Preparation method:

[0089] A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add 0.25 mol / l β-mercaptoethanol (CAS: 60-24-2) lactic acid-sodium lactate buffer solution, adjust pH to 5.0, and use it as the aqueous phase solution;

[0090] B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 2 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 25 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 2 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed;

[0091] C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, and perform water bath heating and rotary evaporation. The temperature control is as follows: a. heating to 30°C for 10 min; b. heating to 40°C for 10 min; c. cooling to 5°C for 15 min; d. heating to 45°C until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product;

[0092] D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition.

[0093] Stability of active peptide composition

[0094] The active peptide compositions of Examples 1 to 4 and the active peptide compositions of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were sealed and packaged, and placed at a temperature of 40±2° C. and a relative humidity of 75%±5% for 6 months. Samples were taken during the test, and the contents of acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 were detected by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

[0095] Figure 1 The content of tripeptide-1 copper in the active peptide composition is changed. Figure 2 It is the change of acetyl hexapeptide-8 content in the active peptide composition. Figure 3 It is the change of tripeptide-1 content in the active peptide composition. Figure 4 It is the change of the content of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 in the active peptide composition. Figure 5 is the change in the content of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 in the active peptide composition. Figures 1 to 5 The data show that although the molecular structures of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 are relatively stable, they will still show a certain degree of degradation or reduced activity under high temperature and high humidity environments. The present invention optimizes the preparation process, encapsulates acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 in lipid materials, further adds dithiothreitol-buffer solution and optimizes the rotary evaporation process, which protects the active peptides, enhances the stability of acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 under high temperature and high humidity environments, and prolongs the shelf life and shelf life of the product.

[0096] Essence containing active peptide combination

[0097] The active peptide composition of Example 1 was mixed with 3% propylene glycol, 5% glycerin, 0.2% hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.3% xanthan gum and purified water to prepare an essence (containing 0.02% acetyl hexapeptide-8, 0.005% tripeptide-1, 0.003% tripeptide-1 copper, 0.03% palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and 0.02% palmitoyl pentapeptide-4).

[0098] It should be noted that the active peptide compositions of Examples 1 to 4 can be prepared into cosmetic products such as lotions, essences, face creams, eye creams, toners, neck creams, etc. as needed, and can all achieve similar effects as described in the present invention without significant differences.

[0099] Skin firmness indicator F4 value

[0100] The total number of subjects was 30, including 5 males and 25 females. The age range was between 35 and 59 years old, with an average age of 49.2 years old.

[0101] The subjects used the serum containing the active peptide composition once in the morning and once in the evening for 30 consecutive days. The skin firmness was characterized by the F4 value before and after the test using a Cutometer. The instrument is based on the suction and stretching principles, and generates a negative pressure on the surface of the tested skin to suck the skin into a specific test probe. F4 refers to the area value within the curve formed during the application and elimination of negative pressure in all test cycles. The smaller the F4 value, the better the skin firmness.

[0102] Figure 6 The F4 value is the skin firmness characterization value of the subject. Compared with the F4 value of the skin firmness characterization value before the test, the F4 value of the subject decreased significantly after 30 days of use, P < 0.01, indicating that the skin is significantly firmed. It should be noted that the essence prepared using the active peptide composition of Examples 2 to 4 also has firming and anti-wrinkle effects, and the data are not listed here one by one.

[0103] The above data were statistically analyzed using SPSS 22.0 software, and the quantitative data were The comparison among multiple groups was performed by one-way analysis of variance, and the comparison between two groups was performed by independent sample T test. P < 0.05 was considered statistically significant.

Claims

1. An active peptide composition, characterized in that: The active peptide composition comprises the following components: 0.01 to 10 parts by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of tripeptide-1, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and 0.01 to 10 parts by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4; The preparation method of the active peptide composition is as follows: A: Dissolve acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1, and tripeptide-1 copper in water, add 0.1-0.5 mol / l dithiothreitol buffer solution, adjust pH to 4.5-6.5, and use it as the aqueous phase solution; B: Mix palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 with 0.5-10 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 10-50 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 0.5-15 parts by weight of egg yolk lecithin, and perform rotary evaporation in a water bath at 40°C ± 5°C until a thin film is formed; C: Slowly add the aqueous solution to the film for hydration, and heat in a water bath for rotary evaporation: a. Heat to 30°C for 10 min; b. Heat to 40°C for 10 min; c. Cool to 5°C for 15 min; d. Heat to 45°C until there is no distillate to obtain a crude product; D: The crude product is sonicated, microfiltered, and freeze-dried to obtain an active peptide composition; The buffer solution is selected from one of lactic acid-sodium lactate buffer solution, citrate buffer solution and phosphate buffer solution.

2. The active peptide composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 1 to 5 parts by weight.

3. The active peptide composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The tripeptide-1 is 0.1 to 1 parts by weight.

4. The active peptide composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The tripeptide-1 copper is 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight.

5. The active peptide composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is 0.1 to 1 parts by weight.

6. The active peptide composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is 1 to 5 parts by weight.

7. Use of the active peptide composition according to claim 1 in cosmetics.

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