A method for making a side under slip-on

Abstract

The application discloses a method for making an underarm body-inserted piece, which comprises the following steps: fitting a front sleeve piece with a front body piece and a back sleeve piece with a back body piece in a raglan sleeve state; taking the intersection of a first parallel line parallel to a chest circumference line of the body and the bisector of a first acute angle formed by a sleeve side seam line and a body side seam line as a vertex to draw a first rectangle and a second rectangle; taking the intersection of the mid-perpendicular line of the extension line of the body side seam line of the back body piece and the bisector of a second acute angle formed by the sleeve side seam line and the body side seam line as a vertex to draw a third rectangle and a fourth rectangle; and combining the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle to divide the covered front sleeve piece, the front body piece, the back sleeve piece and the back body piece to form the underarm body-inserted piece.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to a garment pattern making method, in particular to a method for making an underarm continuous insert piece. BACKGROUND

[0002] The underarm insert piece is a technical means in garment design, mainly applied to sports wear, casual wear and other clothes that need a large range of activities. Its original intention is to improve the comfort of the wearer. When the human body moves, especially when the arms are lifted or other actions are taken, the upper body arm is raised to avoid the restriction of clothes affecting the freedom of movement. The existing underarm insert piece pattern making is usually converted and designed on the drawing of continuous sleeves or raglan sleeves, which requires more steps to adjust and test the fit of the insert piece with the body and sleeves. SUMMARY

[0003] In view of the above-mentioned defects of the prior art, the task of the present application is to provide a method for making an underarm continuous insert piece, which satisfies the corresponding sewing relationship of each pattern piece and quickly and efficiently completes the pattern making.

[0004] The technical scheme of the present application is as follows: a method for making an underarm continuous insert piece, comprising the following steps:

[0005] Step 1, the front piece of the body and the front piece of the sleeve, the back piece of the body and the back piece of the sleeve are in the state of raglan sleeve;

[0006] Step 2, operate the front piece of the body and the front piece of the sleeve, the intersection of the first parallel line and the first angle bisector is point A, the intersection of the sleeve cuff line and the sleeve side seam line is point C1, and the intersection of the lower hem line of the front piece of the body and the body side seam line is C2, wherein the first parallel line is above the body chest circumference line and parallel to the body chest circumference line, and the first angle bisector is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve side seam line and the body side seam line; take point A and point C1 as the opposite corners of a rectangle, and take the sleeve cuff line and the sleeve side seam line as two adjacent sides of the rectangle to draw a first rectangle; take point A and point C2 as the opposite corners of a rectangle, and take the lower hem line and the body side seam line as two adjacent sides of the rectangle to draw a second rectangle;

[0007] Step 3, operate the back of the body and the sleeve back piece, extend the back of the body side seam of the back of the body to point F1 upward, the intersection of the sleeve opening line of the sleeve back piece and the sleeve body side seam is point F1', the length of F1F1' is the sum of the long side of the first rectangle and the long side of the second rectangle, the intersection of the median of F1F1' and the second angle bisector is point E, the intersection of the hem line of the back of the body and the back of the body side seam is F2, and the second angle bisector is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve body side seam and the back of the body side seam; take point E and point F1' as the opposite corners of the rectangle, and take the sleeve opening line and the sleeve body side seam as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a third rectangle; take point E and point F2 as the opposite corners of the rectangle, and take the hem line and the back of the body side seam as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a fourth rectangle;

[0008] Step 4, combine the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle to divide the covered sleeve front piece, the back of the body, the sleeve back piece and the back of the body to form the underarm body insert piece.

[0009] Further, step 4 includes dividing the sleeve front piece with the long side of the first rectangle as the division line, dividing the back of the body with the long side of the second rectangle as the division line; dividing the sleeve back piece with the long side of the third rectangle as the division line, and dividing the back of the body with the long side of the fourth rectangle as the division line.

[0010] Further, when the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are combined to divide the covered sleeve front piece, the back of the body, the sleeve back piece and the back of the body to form the underarm body insert piece, the first rectangle and the second rectangle are combined with the short side of point A aligned, the opposite side of the rectangle side where point A is located after combination is the front side seam, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are combined with the short side of point E aligned, the opposite side of the rectangle side where point E is located after combination is the back side seam, and the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are combined by aligning the front side seam and the back side seam.

[0011] Further, the step 1 includes taking a corresponding joint point on the armhole arc line of the back of the body and the back of the body, aligning the sleeve front piece with the back of the body through the joint point and rotating the sleeve front piece to fit the back of the body to form a raglan sleeve state, and aligning the sleeve back piece with the back of the body through the joint point and rotating the sleeve back piece to fit the back of the body to form a raglan sleeve state.

[0012] Further, the distance between the joint point and the back of the body chest circumference line is not more than 4 cm.

[0013] Further, the distance between the first parallel line and the back of the body chest circumference line is 1-4 cm.

[0014] Further, it includes step 5, combining the remaining parts of the sleeve front piece and the sleeve back piece divided by the first rectangle and the third rectangle with the sleeve middle line as the joint line.

[0015] Further, the step 2 includes smoothing the sleeve cap arc line of the front sleeve piece and the short side of the first rectangle where point A is located, and smoothing the sleeve hole arc line of the front body piece and the short side of the second rectangle where point A is located.

[0016] Further, the step 3 includes smoothing the sleeve cap arc line of the back sleeve piece and the short side of the third rectangle where point E is located, and smoothing the sleeve hole arc line of the back body piece and the short side of the fourth rectangle where point E is located.

[0017] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following advantages:

[0018] The present patent uses shoulder-inserted sleeve drawing technology and symmetry geometric principles to quickly and accurately construct an underarm body-inserted piece. The cutting piece extracted by the underarm body-inserted piece design is more concise and regular, and the corresponding sewing relationship is simpler, which can reduce the production cost and manufacturing time of the garment. The garment made by this method can effectively improve the hand-lifting amount of the dressed human body, and the garment has comfort, functionality and beauty. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0019] Figure 1 is a structure schematic diagram of the original front sleeve piece and the original back sleeve piece.

[0020] Figure 2 is a structure schematic diagram of the original front body piece.

[0021] Figure 3 is a structure schematic diagram of the original back body piece.

[0022] Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the original front sleeve piece and the original front body piece.

[0023] Figure 5 is a schematic diagram of the original back sleeve piece and the original back body piece.

[0024] Figure 6 is a schematic diagram of the position of point A.

[0025] Figure 7 is a schematic diagram of the determination of the first rectangle and the second rectangle.

[0026] Figure 8 is a schematic diagram of the position of point E.

[0027] Figure 9 is a schematic diagram of the determination of the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle.

[0028] Figure 10 is a schematic diagram of the first rectangle and the second rectangle.

[0029] Figure 11 is a schematic diagram of the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle.

[0030] Figure 12is a schematic diagram of a four-piece structure.

[0031] Figure 13 is a schematic diagram of a final garment structure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0032] The application will be further described in conjunction with the examples below, but not as a limitation to the application.

[0033] The embodiment of the application provides a pattern making method for an underarm body slip-in piece, comprising the following steps:

[0034] Step 1, align the sleeve front piece 1 with the body front piece 3 and the sleeve back piece 2 with the body back piece 4 in a raglan sleeve state, specifically, taking a corresponding matching point on the sleevehole 5 arc line of the body front piece 3 and the body back piece 4, aligning the sleeve front piece 1 with the body front piece 3 through the matching point and rotating the sleeve front piece 1 to match the body front piece 3 in a raglan sleeve state, and aligning the sleeve back piece 2 with the body back piece 4 through the matching point and rotating the sleeve back piece 2 to match the body back piece 4 in a raglan sleeve state.

[0035] Please combine Figures 1 to 5 shown in the figure. In this step, a traditional body and an original sleeve structure are prepared as a basic type, and the body is divided into a body front piece and a body back piece 4 with a side seam line as a boundary line, and the sleeve is divided into a sleeve front piece 1 and a sleeve back piece 2 with a sleeve center line as a boundary line.

[0036] In a range of 4 cm above the body bust line 7, a matching point O1 is taken on the sleevehole 5 arc line of the body front piece 3, and a matching point O2 is taken on the sleevehole 5 arc line of the body back piece 4, and O1O2 is parallel to the body bust line 7. The sleeve cap 6 arc line of the sleeve front piece 1 is opposite to the matching point O1, the sleevehole 5 arc length and the sleeve cap 6 arc length from the matching point O1 to the underarm bottom point are ensured to be equal, the sleeve front piece 1 is rotated and moved to match the body front piece 3 in a raglan sleeve state. The sleeve cap 6 arc line of the sleeve back piece 2 is opposite to the matching point O2, the sleevehole 5 arc length and the sleeve cap 6 arc length from the matching point O2 to the underarm bottom point are ensured to be equal, and the sleeve back piece 2 is rotated and moved to match the body back piece 4 in a raglan sleeve state.

[0037] Step 2, operating the body front piece 3 and the sleeve front piece 1, the intersection of the first parallel line 8 and the first angle bisector 9 is point A, the intersection of the sleeve cuff line and the sleeve body side seam line of the sleeve front piece 1 is point C1, the intersection of the body hem line and the body side seam line of the body front piece 3 is C2, taking point A and point C1 as opposite vertices of a rectangle, and taking the sleeve cuff line and the sleeve body side seam line as two adjacent sides of the rectangle to draw a first rectangle; taking point A and point C2 as opposite vertices of a rectangle, and taking the hem line and the body side seam line as two adjacent sides of the rectangle to draw a second rectangle.

[0038] Specifically, please combine Figure 6 , Figure 7As shown, first make a first parallel line 8 parallel to the body chest line 7 of the body front piece 3, the distance between the first parallel line 8 and the body chest line 7 is 1-4 cm and the first parallel line 8 is above the body chest line 7. Then make an angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve side seam line of the sleeve front piece 1 and the body side seam line of the body front piece 3 as the first angle bisector 9. The intersection of the first parallel line 8 and the first angle bisector 9 is point A. When making the first rectangle and the second rectangle, make a vertical line of the sleeve side seam line of the sleeve front piece 1 and the body side seam line of the body front piece 3 through point A, the intersection of the extended sleeve side seam line of the sleeve front piece 1, the body side seam line of the body front piece 3 and the vertical line is point B1 and point B2. Make a vertical line of the sleeve hem line of the sleeve front piece 1 through point A and the vertical line intersects with the sleeve hem line at point D1, make a vertical line of the lower hem line of the body front piece 3 through point A and the vertical line intersects with the lower hem line at point D2. The intersection of the sleeve hem line and the sleeve side seam line of the sleeve front piece 1 is point C1, the intersection of the lower hem line and the body side seam line of the body front piece 3 is C2. From these points, two closed figures can be obtained, the first rectangle AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2. The first rectangle AB1C1D1 is the sleeve side front insert piece, the second rectangle AB2C2D2 is the side body front insert piece, and the shaded part is the underarm area increment. As shown, Figure 10 As shown, the short side AB1 of the first rectangle and the short side AB2 of the second rectangle are coincided, and the first rectangle AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2 are combined to form the complete figure C1D1D2C2 of the front body underarm connected body insert piece, C1C2 is the side seam line, and D1D2 is the dividing modeling line. The combination of the first rectangle AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2 can be processed together in step 4.

[0039] Smoothly pass the sleeve cap 6 arc line of the sleeve front piece 1 and the short side AB1 of the first rectangle, and smoothly pass the sleeve cap 5 arc line of the body front piece 3 and the short side AB2 of the second rectangle.

[0040] Step 3, operate the body back piece 4 and the sleeve back piece 2, extend the body side seam line of the body back piece 4 to point F1, the intersection of the sleeve hem line and the sleeve side seam line of the sleeve back piece 2 is point F1', the length of F1F1' is the sum of the long side of the first rectangle and the long side of the second rectangle, the intersection of the midline of F1F1' and the second angle bisector 10 is point E, the intersection of the lower hem line and the body side seam line of the body back piece 4 is F2, and the second angle bisector 10 is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve side seam line and the body side seam line; take point E and point F1' as the opposite vertices of the rectangle, take the sleeve hem line and the sleeve side seam line as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a third rectangle; take point E and point F2 as the opposite vertices of the rectangle, and take the lower hem line and the body side seam line as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle to make a fourth rectangle.

[0041] For details, please refer to Figure 8 , Figure 9As shown, first extend the body side seam line of the back body piece 4 upward to point F1, so that the length of F1F1' is the same as D1D2. If the first rectangle AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2 are not combined in step 2, then the length of F1F1' is equal to the sum of the long side AD1 of the first rectangle and the long side AD2 of the second rectangle. Point F1' is the intersection of the sleeve opening line of the back sleeve piece 2 and the sleeve side seam line. The angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve side seam line of the back sleeve piece 2 and the body side seam line of the back body piece 4 is the second angle bisector 10. The vertical bisector of F1F1' intersects the second angle bisector 10 to determine point E. When the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are drawn, the vertical line of the sleeve side seam line of the back sleeve piece 2 and the body side seam line of the back body piece 4 passes through point E, and the extended sleeve side seam line of the back sleeve piece 2, the body side seam line of the back body piece 4 and the vertical line intersect to obtain points G1 and G2. The vertical line of the sleeve opening line of the back sleeve piece 2 passes through point E and intersects the sleeve opening line at point H1, and the vertical line of the hem line of the back body piece 4 passes through point E and intersects the hem line at point H2. The intersection of the sleeve opening line and the sleeve side seam line of the back sleeve piece 2 is point F1', and the intersection of the hem line and the body side seam line of the back body piece 3 is F2. From these points, two closed figures can be obtained, i.e. the third rectangle EG1F1'H1 and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2. The third rectangle EG1F1'H1 is the sleeve side back insert piece, and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2 is the side body back insert piece. The shaded part is the underarm incremental area. As shown, Figure 11 As shown, the short edge EG1 of the third rectangle and the short edge EG2 of the fourth rectangle are coincident, and the third rectangle EG1F1'H1 and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2 are combined to form the complete figure F1'F2H2H1 of the back underarm continuous insert piece. H1H2 is the side seam line, and F1'F2 is the dividing shaping line. The combination of the third rectangle EG1F1'H1 and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2 can be handled together in step 4.

[0042] The sleeve cap 6 curve of the back sleeve piece 2 is smoothly connected to the short edge EG1 of the third rectangle, and the sleeve armhole 5 curve of the back body piece 4 is smoothly connected to the short edge EG2 of the fourth rectangle.

[0043] Step 4, divide the sleeve front piece 1 with the long side of the first rectangle as the dividing line, divide the back body piece 3 with the long side of the second rectangle as the dividing line; divide the back sleeve piece 2 with the long side of the third rectangle as the dividing line, and divide the back body piece 4 with the long side of the fourth rectangle as the dividing line. Combine the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle to divide the sleeve front piece 1, the back body piece 3, the back sleeve piece 2 and the back body piece 4 to form the underarm continuous insert piece.

[0044] Specifically, the first rectangle AB1C1D1 and the second rectangle AB2C2D2 are combined as described in steps 2 and 3, the third rectangle EG1F1'H1 and the fourth rectangle EG2F2H2 are combined, the opposite sides C1C2 of the rectangle where the point A is located are front side seams, the opposite sides F1'F2 of the rectangle where the point E is located are back side seams, the first rectangle, the second rectangle, the third rectangle and the fourth rectangle are combined by aligning (i.e. coinciding) the front side seams C1C2 and the back side seams F1'F2, and an underarm gusset D1D2H2H1 is obtained.

[0045] Step 5: the sleeve middle line is used as the aligning line, and the remaining parts of the sleeve front piece 1 and the sleeve back piece 2 divided by the first rectangle and the third rectangle are combined, i.e. a sleeve piece AD1H1E is obtained. The remaining part of the original front body piece 3 divided by the second rectangle is the final front body piece 11, and the remaining part of the original back body piece 4 divided by the fourth rectangle is the final back body piece 12, as shown in Figure 12 Step 6: the pieces are sewn according to the sewing relationship, and the final garment effect is as shown in Figure 13

[0046] The present application uses the advantages of symmetric geometry to design an underarm gusset increment, which determines the underarm lifting point and constructs a right angle relationship between the point and the side, facilitating the subsequent operation of combining the patterns. In actual operation, the line shape of the divided modeling line can be further optimized to achieve an aesthetic and comfortable effect.​

Claims

1. A method for making a pattern for an underarm patch, characterized in that, include: Step 1: Align the front body piece with the front sleeve piece, and the back body piece with the back sleeve piece to form a raglan sleeve shape; Step 2: Operate the front body piece and the front sleeve piece. The intersection of the first parallel line and the first angle bisector is point A. The intersection of the cuff line of the front sleeve piece and the side seam of the sleeve is point C1. The intersection of the hem line of the front body piece and the side seam of the body is point C2. The first parallel line is located above the bust line of the body and is parallel to the bust line of the body. The first angle bisector is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the side seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the body. With points A and C1 as the opposite vertices of the rectangle, and the cuff line and the side seam of the sleeve as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle, construct the first rectangle; with points A and C2 as the opposite vertices of the rectangle, and the hemline and the side seam of the body as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle, construct the second rectangle. Step 3: Manipulate the back panel and sleeve back panel. Extend the side seam of the back panel upwards to point F1. The intersection of the cuff line and the sleeve side seam of the sleeve back panel is point F1'. The length of F1F1' is the sum of the long side of the first rectangle and the long side of the second rectangle. The intersection of the perpendicular bisector of F1F1' and the second angle bisector is point E. The intersection of the hemline of the back panel and the side seam of the back panel is point F2. The second angle bisector is the angle bisector of the acute angle formed by the sleeve side seam and the side seam of the back panel. Using points E and F1' as the opposite vertices of the rectangle, and the cuff line and the sleeve side seam as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle, construct the third rectangle. Using points E and F2 as the opposite vertices of the rectangle, and the hemline and the side seam of the back panel as the two adjacent sides of the rectangle, construct the fourth rectangle. Step 4: Combine the front sleeve piece, front body piece, back sleeve piece, and back body piece covered by the first rectangle, second rectangle, third rectangle, and fourth rectangle to form the underarm suspender piece.

2. The method for making a pattern for an underarm patch according to claim 1, characterized in that, Step 4 includes dividing the front sleeve piece with the long side of the first rectangle as the dividing line, dividing the front body piece with the long side of the second rectangle as the dividing line, dividing the back sleeve piece with the long side of the third rectangle as the dividing line, and dividing the back body piece with the long side of the fourth rectangle as the dividing line.

3. The method for making a pattern for an underarm patch according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, When piecing together the first, second, third, and fourth rectangles to divide and cover the front sleeve piece, front body piece, back sleeve piece, and back body piece to form the underarm romper, align the first and second rectangles with the short side where point A is located and sew them together. After sewing, the opposite side of the rectangle where point A is located becomes the front seam. Align the third and fourth rectangles with the short side where point E is located and sew them together. After sewing, the opposite side of the rectangle where point E is located becomes the back seam. Then align the front seam and the back seam and sew together the first, second, third, and fourth rectangles.

4. The method for making a pattern for an underarm patch according to claim 1, characterized in that, Step 1 includes taking corresponding alignment points on the armhole curves of the front and back pieces of the body, aligning the front sleeve with the front piece of the body through the alignment points and rotating the front sleeve to match the front piece of the body in a raglan sleeve state, and aligning the back sleeve with the back piece of the body through the alignment points and rotating the back sleeve to match the back piece of the body in a raglan sleeve state.

5. The method for making a pattern for an underarm patch according to claim 4, characterized in that, The distance between the alignment point and the bust line should not exceed 4cm.

6. The method for making a pattern for an underarm patch according to claim 1, characterized in that, The distance between the first parallel line and the bust line is 1 to 4 cm.

7. The method for making a pattern for an underarm patch according to claim 1, characterized in that, This includes step 5, using the center line of the sleeve as the joining line, merging the remaining parts of the front and back sleeve pieces that were divided by the first and third rectangles.

8. The method for making a pattern for an underarm patch according to claim 1, characterized in that, Step 2 includes smoothing the sleeve cap curve of the front sleeve piece to smoothly transition to the short side of the first rectangle where point A is located, and smoothing the armhole curve of the front body piece to smoothly transition to the short side of the second rectangle where point A is located.

9. The method for making a pattern for an underarm patch according to claim 1, characterized in that, Step 3 includes smoothing the sleeve cap curve of the back sleeve piece to the short side where point E of the third rectangle is located, and smoothing the armhole curve of the back piece to the short side where point E of the fourth rectangle is located.

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