Silk mercerizing feeling imitating composite yarn, fabric and preparation method of silk mercerizing feeling imitating composite yarn

By combining light-shaped FDY yarns and special-shaped DTY yarns in the yarn and performing network processing, the problem of fiber fabrics that lack soft silk merceration but are cheap is solved in the market, and the natural luster and cost reduction of the yarn is achieved. Suitable for the production of antique clothes.

CN119194694APending Publication Date: 2024-12-27FUJIAN HUAFENG NEW MATERIALS
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202411340612.5
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-09-25
Publication Date
2024-12-27

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Abstract

The invention relates to composite yarn imitating silk mercerizing feeling, a fabric and a preparation method of the composite yarn imitating silk mercerizing feeling. The composite yarn is of a skin-core structure, core yarn is FDY yarn with the shrinkage rate of 40%-50%, and a skin layer is special-shaped DTY yarn with the shrinkage rate of 5%-8%; according to the special-shaped DTY yarn obtained after light special-shaped FDY yarn is subjected to tensile deformation, heat setting and twisting, fibers are bent and twisted, and special-shaped sections are irregularly deformed, so that the outer surface of the yarn presents uneven texture, the mirror surface imitation effect is reduced, the mirror reflection degree of the surface of the yarn is reduced, and the diffuse reflection degree is increased; in the skin-core structure of the composite yarn, after the high-shrinkage FDA yarn serves as the core yarn, the special-shaped DTY yarn on the surface can be bent and stacked after high shrinkage, the surface of the composite yarn is further uneven, the light reflection directions are more, diffuse reflection is further enhanced, and the composite yarn can present the soft gloss of natural silk fibers.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of textiles, and in particular to a composite yarn with a silk-like luster, a fabric and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] In recent years, with the popularity of antique clothing such as Hanfu, the raw material silk has been sought after by more and more Hanfu lovers due to its special soft luster. However, the high price of silk and the complicated cleaning and maintenance methods make most people stay away from it, and they can only use artificial fiber materials instead.

[0003] Artificial light fiber is a common artificial reflective fiber. Due to its smooth surface and mirror-like effect when reflecting light, it has a high degree of concentrated reflection of light and a strong reflective effect, which makes the gloss of the fabric woven from it too high, giving it an industrial and cheap feel, and is not suitable for weaving antique clothing. However, its advantages are that it is cheap and easy to clean and maintain.

[0004] The market lacks a man-made fiber fabric that has the soft mercerized feel of silk but is cheap and easy to maintain. Summary of the invention

[0005] In view of the above problems, the present application provides a composite yarn, fabric and preparation method thereof that imitate the mercerization feeling of silk. The composite yarn is a man-made fiber, but has the soft mercerization effect of silk fiber.

[0006] In a first aspect, the present application provides a composite yarn imitating the silky feel of silk, wherein the composite yarn is a core-skin structure, wherein the core yarn is an FDY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 40-50%, and the skin layer is a shaped DTY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 5-8%; the preparation steps of the shaped DTY yarn sequentially include:

[0007] Stretch deformation: The light profiled FDY yarn is stretched and deformed, with an elongation of 30-40%;

[0008] Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is heat set at a temperature of 160-175°C;

[0009] Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to reach a D / Y ratio of 1.5-1.7 to obtain the special-shaped DTY yarn.

[0010] Different from the prior art, the optically profiled FDY yarn, after being stretched, deformed, heat-set and twisted, obtains a profiled DTY yarn, in which the fiber is bent and twisted, and the profiled cross-section undergoes irregular deformation, resulting in an uneven texture on the outer surface of the yarn, a reduced mirror effect, a reduced degree of mirror reflection on the yarn surface, and an increased degree of diffuse reflection; while in the sheath-core structure of the composite yarn, the high-shrinkage FDA yarn as the core yarn will cause the profiled DTY yarn on the surface to bend and stack after high shrinkage, making the surface of the composite yarn further uneven, with more directions of light reflection, and further enhanced diffuse reflection, so that the composite yarn can present the soft luster of natural silk fiber.

[0011] Furthermore, the optically shaped FDY yarn is a triangular optically shaped FDY yarn.

[0012] Furthermore, the FDY yarn is prepared by melt spinning polyester and / or nylon resin chips mixed with isophthalic acid.

[0013] Furthermore, the resin chips are polyester, and the FDY yarn is 70-80wt% of the resin chips and 20-30wt% of isophthalic acid.

[0014] Furthermore, the resin chips are nylon, and the FDY yarns are 75-85wt% of the resin chips and 15-25wt% of isophthalic acid.

[0015] Furthermore, the resin chips are polyester and nylon, and the FDY yarn is 80-85wt% of the resin chips and 15-20wt% of IPA isophthalic acid.

[0016] The second aspect of the present application provides a method for preparing a composite yarn with a silk-like luster, comprising the following steps:

[0017] The FDY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 40-50% and the special-shaped DTY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 5-8% are simultaneously fed into a compressed air nozzle for network processing to form the composite yarn; the network fastness of the special-shaped DTY yarn is 85-95%; wherein the preparation of the special-shaped DTY yarn comprises the following steps in sequence:

[0018] Stretch deformation: The light-shaped FDY yarn is stretched and deformed, and the yarn elongation is 30-40%;

[0019] Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is heat set at a temperature of 160-175°C;

[0020] Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to reach a D / Y ratio of 1.5-1.7 to obtain the special-shaped DTY yarn.

[0021] Furthermore, the FDY yarn is prepared by melt spinning polyester and / or nylon resin chips and IPA isophthalic acid.

[0022] Furthermore, the method also includes oiling and winding steps.

[0023] The third aspect of the present application provides a fabric with a silk-like luster, which is woven using the composite yarn described in the first aspect of the present application.

[0024] The above-mentioned records related to the invention content are only an overview of the technical solution of the present application. In order to enable ordinary technicians in the field to more clearly understand the technical solution of the present application, and then implement it according to the written contents of the specification, and to make the above-mentioned purpose and other purposes, features and advantages of the present application easier to understand, the specific implementation mode and drawings of the present application are explained below. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0025] The drawings are only used to illustrate the principles, implementation methods, applications, characteristics and effects of the specific embodiments of the present application and other related contents, and shall not be considered as limitations of the present application.

[0026] In the drawings of the specification:

[0027] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the composite yarn structure; the blue line represents FDY yarn and the black line represents special-shaped DTY.

[0028] Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of light reflection of triangular glossy FDY yarn and special-shaped DTY yarn.

[0029] Figure 3 This is a diagram of the special-shaped DTY yarn prepared in Example 1.

[0030] Figure 4 The fabric is the silk-like silk-like fabric prepared in Example 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0031] In order to explain in detail the possible application scenarios, technical principles, specific schemes that can be implemented, and the purposes and effects that can be achieved, the following is a detailed description of the specific embodiments listed in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. The embodiments described herein are only used to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the present application, and are therefore only used as examples, and cannot be used to limit the scope of protection of the present application.

[0032] Reference to "embodiment" herein means that the specific features, structures or characteristics described in conjunction with the embodiment may be included in at least one embodiment of the present application. The term "embodiment" appearing in various places in the specification does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, nor does it particularly limit its independence or association with other embodiments. In principle, in the present application, as long as there is no technical contradiction or conflict, the various technical features mentioned in the embodiments can be combined in any way to form a corresponding implementable technical solution.

[0033] Unless otherwise defined, the technical terms used in this document have the same meanings as those generally understood by those skilled in the art to which this application belongs; the use of relevant terms in this document is only for describing specific embodiments and is not intended to limit this application.

[0034] In the description of this application, the term "and / or" is an expression used to describe the logical relationship between objects, indicating that three relationships may exist, for example, A and / or B, which means: A exists, B exists, and A and B exist at the same time. In addition, the character " / " in this article generally indicates that the objects before and after are in an "or" logical relationship.

[0035] In the present application, terms such as “first” and “second” are merely used to distinguish one entity or operation from another entity or operation, and do not necessarily require or imply any actual relationship of quantity, priority or sequence between these entities or operations.

[0036] Without further limitations, in this application, the words "include", "comprises", "has" or other similar expressions used in the sentences are intended to cover non-exclusive inclusion. These expressions do not exclude the presence of additional elements in the process, method or product including the elements, so that the process, method or product including a series of elements may include not only those limited elements, but also other elements not explicitly listed, or also include elements inherent to such process, method or product.

[0037] Similar to the understanding in the Examination Guidelines, in this application, expressions such as "greater than", "less than", "exceed" and the like are understood to exclude the number itself; expressions such as "above", "below", "within" and the like are understood to include the number itself. In addition, in the description of the embodiments of this application, "multiple" means more than two (including two), and similar expressions related to "multiple" are also understood in this way, such as "multiple groups", "multiple times", etc., unless otherwise clearly and specifically limited.

[0038] The network process described in this application refers to the process of jet-blowing filaments using a compressed air nozzle (network device). Network processing is a type of jet deformation processing. When the filaments pass through the wire path of the network device, they are laterally impacted by a jet airflow perpendicular to the filaments, forming a vortex flow parallel to the filaments. This vortex flow accelerates, loosens, rotates and twists the filaments, thereby causing irregular entanglement and mixing between the single filaments of the filaments, forming entanglement points (network nodes), and making network filaments with good cohesion and smoothness.

[0039] The network degree described in this application is the number of network nodes within a unit length (m), which is an important indicator for measuring the network processing effect and the bonding performance of the network yarn. The size of the network degree is related to the yarn tension, compressed air pressure and yarn speed. The optimal network degree is 20 to 70 / m (polyester network yarn). Using pre-oriented yarns for network processing can increase the bonding force between single yarns, improve the unwinding property during post-processing, and prevent hairy yarns, broken ends and loose loops from being produced during stretching and deformation processing. When using stretched yarns and deformed yarns for network processing, the weaving mill's doubling, twisting, sizing and other processes can be omitted, and the yarn can be directly woven on the machine, which not only simplifies the process, but also reduces the waxy feel and aurora effect of the fiber-containing filaments, making the fabric feel hairy, not easy to pilling, and has a unique style.

[0040] The interlacing fastness described in this application is that a heavy load is applied to the interlacing yarn, the interlacing knots are damaged, and the interlacing fastness is reduced. The percentage of the interlacing fastness after the heavy load compared to the interlacing fastness before the heavy load is the interlacing fastness.

[0041] The D / Y ratio described in this application is also called the speed ratio, which refers to the ratio of the surface speed of the friction disk to the speed at which the yarn leaves the false twister.

[0042] In a first aspect, the present application provides a composite yarn imitating the silky feel of silk, wherein the composite yarn is a core-skin structure, wherein the core yarn is an FDY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 40-50%, and the skin layer is a shaped DTY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 5-8%; the preparation steps of the shaped DTY yarn sequentially include:

[0043] Stretch deformation: The light profiled FDY yarn is stretched and deformed, with an elongation of 30-40%;

[0044] Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is heat set at a temperature of 160-175°C;

[0045] Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to reach a D / Y ratio of 1.5-1.7 to obtain the special-shaped DTY yarn.

[0046] Different from the prior art, the optically shaped FDY yarn, after being stretched, deformed, heat-set and twisted, obtains a shaped DTY yarn, in which the fibers are bent and twisted, and the shaped cross-section undergoes irregular deformation, resulting in an uneven texture on the outer surface of the yarn, a reduced mirror effect, a reduced degree of mirror reflection on the yarn surface, and an increased degree of diffuse reflection; while in the sheath-core structure of the composite yarn, the high-shrinkage FDA yarn as the core yarn will cause the shaped DTY yarn on the surface to bend and stack after high shrinkage, making the surface of the composite yarn further uneven, with more directions of light reflection, and further enhanced diffuse reflection, so that the yarn can present the soft luster of natural silk fiber. The structural schematic diagram of the composite yarn is shown in the figure. Figure 1 shown.

[0047] Furthermore, the optically shaped FDY yarn is a triangular optically shaped FDY yarn.

[0048] Furthermore, the FDY yarn is prepared by mixing polyester and / or nylon resin chips with IPA isophthalic acid and performing melt spinning.

[0049] Furthermore, the resin chips are polyester, and the FDY yarn is 70-80wt% of the resin chips and 20-30wt% of isophthalic acid.

[0050] Furthermore, the resin chips are nylon, and the FDY yarns are 75-85wt% of the resin chips and 15-25wt% of isophthalic acid.

[0051] Furthermore, the resin chips are polyester and nylon, and the FDY yarn is 80-85wt% of the resin chips and 15-20wt% of IPA isophthalic acid.

[0052] The second aspect of the present application provides a method for preparing a composite yarn with a silk-like luster, comprising the following steps:

[0053] The FDY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 40-50% and the special-shaped DTY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 5-8% are simultaneously fed into a compressed air nozzle for network processing to form the composite yarn; the network fastness of the special-shaped DTY yarn is more than 85%;

[0054] The preparation of the special-shaped DTY yarn comprises the following steps in sequence:

[0055] Stretch deformation: The light profiled FDY yarn is stretched and deformed, with an elongation of 30-40%;

[0056] Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is heat set at a temperature of 160-175°C;

[0057] Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to reach a D / Y ratio of 1.5-1.7 to obtain the special-shaped DTY yarn.

[0058] Since polyester and nylon FDY (fully stretched filament) are used as raw materials, the elongation of FDY needs to be controlled at 30-40% to avoid breaking; and the draw ratio cannot be set too large, as a high draw ratio will cause FDY to break and become fluffy, so the draw ratio must also be controlled between 1.1-1.25 to ensure the yield and reduce abnormalities.

[0059] The heat setting temperature is controlled at 160-175℃. The temperature will affect the yarn shrinkage, and the thermal expansion will affect the FDY profile. The temperature setting has an impact on the yarn profile. In the temperature range of 160-175℃, it can provide good stretching energy without changing the profile much, thus maintaining the basic shape of the fiber.

[0060] The false twister controls the D / Y ratio of 1.5-1.7, the yarn has a better false twist state, the fiber has a certain degree of bending and twisting, and the special-shaped cross-section can also have a good degree of special-shapedness.

[0061] The network fastness of the special-shaped DTY yarn is 85-95%. Due to the damage of the network knot, the network knot of the special-shaped DTY yarn will be damaged. As the cortex of the composite yarn, the composite yarn has a coarse and fine appearance on the surface of the finished cloth after weaving shrinkage, which is similar to the uneven appearance of natural fibers.

[0062] Furthermore, the high shrinkage FDY yarn is prepared by melt spinning polyester and / or nylon resin chips and IPA isophthalic acid. Isophthalic acid is added to reduce the crystallinity of the resin and enhance its spinnability.

[0063] Furthermore, the resin chips are polyester, and the FDY yarn is 70-80wt% of the resin chips and 20-30wt% of isophthalic acid. The intrinsic viscosity of polyester is 0.5-0.6dl / g.

[0064] Furthermore, the resin chips are nylon, and the FDY yarn is 75-85wt% of the resin chips and 15-25wt% of isophthalic acid. The intrinsic viscosity of nylon is 2.35-2.45dl / g.

[0065] Furthermore, the resin chips are polyester and nylon, and the FDY yarn is 80-85wt% of the resin chips and 15-20wt% of IPA isophthalic acid. The intrinsic viscosity of the polyester in the resin chips is 0.7-1.1 dl / g, and the intrinsic viscosity of the nylon is 2.25-3.25 dl / g.

[0066] Furthermore, the method also includes oiling and winding steps.

[0067] Furthermore, the composite yarn is oiled to increase the yarn cohesion, antistatic property and good unwinding ability, and the oil content of the composite yarn is 1%-2%.

[0068] The third part of the present application provides a fabric with a silk-like luster, which is woven using the yarn described in the first part of the present application.

[0069] Furthermore, the fabric is a woven fabric using plain weave.

[0070] The plain weave is adopted, and the composite yarn is used in both warp and weft, so that the woven fabric has a more mercerized feeling of silk.

[0071] In this embodiment, the compressed air nozzle (network device) is a Heberlein P series 243 model with an aperture of 1.6 mm and an air pressure of 0.25 MPa.

[0072] In this embodiment, a water jet cam multi-arm 230-single jet loom is used for fabric weaving.

[0073] Example 1 A composite yarn and fabric imitating the silky feel of silk

[0074] 1. Preparation of special-shaped DTY yarn

[0075] Stretching deformation: The triangular glossy FDY yarn was stretched and deformed by rollers, with a stretching ratio of 1.1 and an elongation of 35.3%;

[0076] Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is passed through a heat-changing box for heat setting at a temperature of 168°C;

[0077] Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to achieve a D / Y ratio of 1.65. Figure 3 As shown, the shrinkage of heterosexual DTY yarn is 6%;

[0078] 2. Preparation of FDY yarn:

[0079] 80% polyester chips (polyester chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.57 dl / g) were mixed with 20% isophthalic acid and melt-spun to obtain FDY yarn. The shrinkage of FDY yarn was 45%.

[0080] 3. Preparation of composite yarn:

[0081] The FDY yarn and the special-shaped DTY yarn are simultaneously fed into a compressed air nozzle for network processing, oiling (oiling rate 2%), and winding to form the composite yarn; the compressed air nozzle (network device) is a Haibolin P2431.6 aperture nozzle, the air pressure is 0.25Mpa, and the network fastness of the special-shaped DTY yarn is 85-95%.

[0082] 4. Preparation of fabrics with imitation silk luster.

[0083] The composite yarn prepared in Example 1 was woven into a fabric using a water jet cam multi-arm 230-single jet loom. Figure 4 The fabric shown has a silk-like sheen.

[0084] Example 2

[0085] The difference between Example 2 and Example 1 is that:

[0086] 2. FDY yarn preparation:

[0087] 85% polyester nylon mixed chips were mixed with 15% isophthalic acid and melt-spun to obtain FDY yarn, the shrinkage of which was 40%.

[0088] Among them, the viscosity of polyester chips is 0.83dl / g, and the viscosity of nylon chips is 2.65dl / g.

[0089] Example 3

[0090] The difference between Example 3 and Example 1 is that:

[0091] 2. FDY yarn preparation:

[0092] 80% nylon chips and 20% isophthalic acid were mixed and melt-spun to obtain FDY yarn, the shrinkage of FDY yarn was 43%; the viscosity of nylon chips was 2.45 dl / g.

[0093] The light-shaped FDY yarn used in Examples 1-3 is a triangular glossy FDY yarn, and the cross section of the yarn is triangular. The outer surface of the triangular glossy FDY monofilament is similar to a mirror surface, and most of the light can be concentratedly reflected. The reflection schematic diagram is shown in FIG. Figure 2 a; and after processing according to this embodiment, the yarn will be stretched, bent and twisted, and the cross-section of the special-shaped DTY yarn is irregular, forming a diffuse reflection effect, and the reflection schematic diagram is shown in FIG. Figure 2 As shown in b, the excessive flash effect of the triangular glossy FDY yarn is reduced, producing a soft luster like natural fiber silk.

[0094] Example 4

[0095] The difference between Example 4 and Example 1 is that:

[0096] 1. Preparation of special-shaped DTY yarn

[0097] Stretching deformation: The square glossy FDY yarn was stretched through rollers, with a stretching ratio of 1.08 and an elongation of 36.8%;

[0098] Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is passed through a heat-changing box for heat setting at 170°C;

[0099] Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to reach a D / Y ratio of 1.65. The special-shaped DTY yarn is obtained, and the shrinkage rate of the special-shaped DTY yarn is 5.5%;

[0100] Example 5

[0101] The difference between Example 5 and Example 1 is that:

[0102] 1. Preparation of special-shaped DTY yarn

[0103] Stretching deformation: The pentagonal glossy FDY yarn was stretched and deformed by rollers, with a stretching ratio of 1.1 and an elongation of 38%;

[0104] Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is passed through a heat-changing box for heat setting at 170°C;

[0105] Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to achieve a D / Y ratio of 1.68. The special-shaped DTY yarn is obtained, and the shrinkage rate of the special-shaped DTY yarn is 4.8%;

[0106] The fabrics prepared in Examples 1-5 all have a soft silk luster, and at the same time have a rough and fine appearance on the surface, similar to the uneven roughness of natural fibers. However, the fabrics are low in cost and easy to clean, do not require special maintenance, and are suitable for preparing various clothes, especially antique clothes.

[0107] Finally, it should be noted that although the above embodiments have been described in the specification and drawings of this application, this does not limit the scope of patent protection of this application. All technical solutions generated by replacing or modifying equivalent structures or equivalent processes based on the essential concept of this application using the contents recorded in the specification and drawings of this application, as well as directly or indirectly implementing the technical solutions of the above embodiments in other related technical fields, are included in the scope of patent protection of this application.

Claims

1. A composite yarn imitating the silky feel of silk, characterized in that: The composite yarn is a core-skin structure, wherein the core yarn is an FDY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 40-50%, and the skin layer is a special-shaped DTY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 5-8%. The preparation steps of the special-shaped DTY yarn include: Stretch deformation: The light profiled FDY yarn is stretched and deformed, with an elongation of 30-40%; Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is heat set at a temperature of 160-175°C; Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to reach a D / Y ratio of 1.5-1.7 to obtain the special-shaped DTY yarn.

2. The composite yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that The light-shaped FDY yarn is a triangular-shaped glossy FDY yarn.

3. The composite yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that The FDY yarn is prepared by mixing polyester and / or nylon resin chips with isophthalic acid and performing melt spinning.

4. The composite yarn according to claim 3, characterized in that The resin chips are polyester, and the FDY yarns are 70-80wt% of the resin chips and 20-30wt% of isophthalic acid.

5. The composite yarn according to claim 3, characterized in that The resin chips are nylon, and the FDY yarns are 75-85wt% of the resin chips and 15-25wt% of isophthalic acid.

6. The composite yarn according to claim 3, characterized in that The resin chips are polyester and nylon, and the FDY yarns are 80-85wt% of the resin chips and 15-20wt% of isophthalic acid.

7. A method for preparing a composite yarn imitating the silky feel of silk, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: The FDY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 40-50% and the special-shaped DTY yarn with a shrinkage rate of 5-8% are simultaneously fed into a compressed air nozzle for network processing to form the composite yarn; the network fastness of the special-shaped DTY yarn is 85-95%; The preparation of the special-shaped DTY yarn comprises the following steps in sequence: Stretch deformation: The light-shaped FDY yarn is stretched and deformed, and the yarn elongation is 30-40%; Heat setting: The stretched and deformed yarn is heat set at a temperature of 160-175°C; Twisting: The heat-set yarn is passed through a false twister to reach a D / Y ratio of 1.5-1.7 to obtain the special-shaped DTY yarn.

8. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that: The FDY yarn is prepared by melt spinning polyester and / or nylon resin chips and isophthalic acid.

9. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that: It also includes oiling and winding steps.

10. A fabric imitating the silky feel, characterized in that: The fabric is woven using the yarn described in claim 1.

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