Cosmetic composition comprising polyphenols suitable as makeup agent
By using polyphenol X, (poly)glycerized nonionic compound Y and C2-C5 monool in cosmetics, combined with gelling agents, the ease of use and stability of cosmetic cosmetics is solved by combining with the gelling agent. Sexual problems, improve endurance and comfort, suitable for keratin materials.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202380042727.3
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-07-05
- Filing Date
- 2023-04-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic makeup compositions have shortcomings in terms of ease of use, comfort of application, stability and color stability, especially in the presence of polyphenols, which are difficult to improve in terms of fluidity, viscosity and texture.
The composition of polyphenol X, (poly)glycerized and/or polyoxyalkylated nonionic compound Y, water and C2-C5 monohydric alcohol containing at least two different phenol groups is used, and a gelling agent is added, The gel composition is formed to inhibit precipitation formation and provides excellent staying power and comfort.
It significantly improves the endurance and comfort of cosmetics on keratin materials, enhances resistance to mechanical friction, water, sweat and sebum, improves color stability and fluidity, and provides better beauty effects.
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Figure BDA0005151403730000231
Abstract
Description
[0001] CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0002] This application claims priority to U.S. Application No. 17 / 731,791, filed on April 28, 2022. This application also claims priority to French Application No. 2206830, filed on July 5, 2022. All of the above applications are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Field of the Invention
[0003] The present invention relates to compositions, in particular to makeup fixative compositions for cosmetics, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups; (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y; (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitates of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application; and (4) at least one gelling agent, as well as methods, kits and sets comprising such compositions in a container or in an application.
[0004] Background Discussion
[0005] Currently on the market for the care and make-up of keratin materials, many products claim all-day staying power, withstanding external factors such as water, sebum, mechanical friction, etc. (waterproof mascara, food-grade lipstick, long-lasting foundation). Long-lasting products for lips, eyelashes, eyebrows or face that can be used at home are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents. For makeup lips and for makeup face compositions, compositions comprising silicone resins as coating agents are known, such as the compound with the following INCI name: trimethylsiloxysilicate or the compound with the following INCI name: polypropylsilsesquioxane, or alternatively silicone acrylate copolymers such as the product with the following INCI name: acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer). Long-lasting makeup products for eyelashes and / or eyebrows (mascara, eyeliner) for their part use waxes or film-forming polymer particles (ie: styrene / acrylate copolymers) in aqueous suspension of latex type.
[0006] In addition to these long-lasting products, the current trend is towards semi-permanent makeup. Specifically, in recent years, conventional makeup products have encountered competition from the semi-permanent makeup market in professional salons. It is encountered in the field of makeup for the eyes (semi-permanent mascara, permanent eyelash makeup, eyelash extensions, etc.), eyebrows (semi-pigmentation known as micro-blading), skin color (freckles, beauty spots or the whole face, radiant or healthy skin effect) or lips (semi-permanent tattoos). This new trend has prompted consumers to seek longer and longer lasting power for greater practicality (avoiding having to apply and remove makeup every day, having a healthy skin effect immediately after waking up, etc.).
[0007] However, consumers, increasingly demanding about the ingredients in their cosmetic products, are also looking for products using ingredients that are well tolerated, such as natural ingredients, ingredients that have little or no impact on the environment and / or ingredients that are compatible with many packaging options.
[0008] The object of the present invention is to propose a composition which provides excellent persistence of the desired cosmetic effect, in particular the color of a cosmetic product on keratin materials (skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows), which makes it possible to prolong the duration of the cosmetic composition on keratin materials, as well as to improve the wear of the cosmetic composition on keratin materials and its resistance to external forces such as mechanical friction, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, etc.
[0009] Furthermore, the object of the present invention is to propose compositions which, compared with conventional systems, in particular systems based on silicone resins, provide the durability of the desired cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the make-up on keratin materials, together with a good level of comfort.
[0010] The use of tannic acid in compositions has been reported. For example, CN104971200 is entitled "Tannic acid pH-stable hemorrhoid gel and preparation method thereof", and is described as having the purpose of providing a tannic acid pH-stable hemorrhoid gel, so that when the gel contacts weakly alkaline anal tissue and weakly alkaline feces, the pH can still be maintained at 4.5-4.8, so that the tannic acid and other raw materials can work synergistically and play a better role in the astringent healing of hemorrhoids.
[0011] In addition, the title of CN108175765 is “Acid-sensitive controlled-release anti-inflammatory gel as well as preparation method and application thereof,” and its purpose is to design a hyaluronic acid hydrogel structure based on the characteristics of pH decrease caused by the accumulation of inflammatory metabolites in the joint cavity, so as to provide an acid-sensitive controlled-release anti-inflammatory gel formed by hyaluronic acid modified with phenylboronic acid and tannic acid under neutral to weakly alkaline conditions.
[0012] US 8,377,853 (corresponding to CA2649412) is entitled "Aqueous gels for well bore strengthening" and discloses in the abstract "a method for treating earth formations (earth formations) is disclosed. The method of forming a gel may include: injecting a gelling agent into a formation; injecting a cross-linking agent into the formation; and reacting the gelling agent and the cross-linking agent to form a gel. The gelling agent may include at least one of lignin, lignin sulfonate, tannin, tannic acid, modified lignin, modified lignin sulfonate, modified tannin, modified tannic acid, biopolymer, starch, carboxymethyl cellulose, polyacrylate, polyacrylamide, polyamine, polyetheramine, polyethyleneamine, polyethyleneimine, and combinations thereof. The cross-linking agent may include at least one of ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, propylene glycol diglycidyl ether, butanediol diglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, trimethylolpropane triglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, neopentyl glycol diglycidyl ether, epoxidized 1,6-hexanediol, aziridine derivatives, epoxy-functionalized polyalkylene glycols, oxidized starch, polymeric dialdehydes, aldehyde adducts, tetramethoxypropane, hydrolyzed acetals, and combinations thereof. "
[0013] In addition, general stabilizing effects using combinations of multiple ingredients have also been reported, such as in Effect of Sodium Metabisulphite and Disodium Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) on the Stability of Ascorbic Acid in Vitamin C Syrup, Researcher 2014; 6 (10), which involves the use of EDTA and sodium meta bisuiphite and additional ascorbic acid to improve the stability of vitamin C syrup.
[0014] There remains a need for improved compositions, such as makeup fixative compositions, having improved properties with respect to ease of use and / or comfort of application of the composition, composition stability and / or composition color stability, and in particular with respect to improved properties related to the presence of polyphenols (such as tannic acid) in the composition, including properties such as flowability, viscosity and / or texture of the composition.
[0015] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, in particular a make-up fixer composition, having improved properties in terms of ease of use and / or comfort of application of the composition, composition stability and / or composition color stability, and in particular in terms of improved properties related to the presence of polyphenols (such as tannic acid) in the composition, including rheological properties such as fluidity, viscosity and texture of the composition. Summary of the invention
[0016] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a makeup fixer composition for cosmetics, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylened nonionic compound Y, (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitation of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application, and (4) at least one gelling agent. Preferably, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0017] The invention also relates to a method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, by applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention in an amount sufficient to care for and / or make up the keratin materials.
[0018] The invention also relates to a method for setting a cosmetic composition (e.g. a pigmented coating composition) and / or for priming a keratin material for a cosmetic composition (e.g. a pigmented coating composition), by applying a composition according to the invention to a keratin material (priming) and / or to a cosmetic composition (e.g. a pigmented coating composition) previously applied to a keratin material (setting) in an amount sufficient for priming the keratin material with a cosmetic composition and / or in an amount sufficient to obtain a setting of the keratin material by a previously applied cosmetic composition.
[0019] The present invention also relates to a kit comprising as separate compositions in one or more containers within the kit, (A) a composition, in particular a makeup fixer composition for cosmetics, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylened nonionic compound Y, (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitation of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application, and (4) at least one gelling agent; and (B) at least one colored coating composition comprising at least one colorant. Preferably, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0020] The present invention also relates to a kit for application on a keratin material, comprising (A) at least one first layer of at least one color coating composition; and (B) at least one second layer of at least one composition, in particular a fixative composition for cosmetics, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylened nonionic compound Y, (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitation of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application, and (4) at least one gelling agent. Preferably, the at least one second layer is applied on the at least one first layer (in this case, the second layer is a fixative layer formed by applying the fixative composition to the first layer). However, if the at least one first layer is applied on the at least one second layer, the at least one second layer is a primer layer formed by applying a primer composition to the keratin material. Preferably, the composition corresponding to the second layer is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0021] It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0023] In the following description of the present invention and the claims appended hereto, it should be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and customary meanings in the art unless otherwise indicated.
[0024] As used herein, "about" means within 10% of the indicated number (eg, "about 10%" means 9%-11%, while "about 2%" means 1.8%-2.2%).
[0025] As used herein, "a" or "an" means "at least one".
[0026] "At least one" means one or more than one, and thus includes single components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0027] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within a given range and combinations of subranges between given ranges. Thus, a range of 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
[0028] As used herein, "film former," "film-forming polymer," or "film forming agent" refers to a polymer or resin that leaves a film on a substrate to which it is applied after, for example, a solvent associated with the film former has evaporated, absorbed into the substrate, and / or dissipated on the substrate.
[0029] As used herein, "wax" is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and changes reversibly from a solid to a liquid state, has a melting temperature greater than 30°C, and for example greater than 45°C, and a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature.
[0030] Throughout this specification, "surfactant" and "emulsifier" are used interchangeably.
[0031] As used herein, "substituted" refers to comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, and functional groups, such as hydroxyl, ether, alkoxy, acyloxyalkyl, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, carboxylic acid, amine, amido, amide, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups. Substituents may be further substituted.
[0032] As used herein, "volatile" means having a flash point of less than about 100°C.
[0033] As used herein, "non-volatile" means having a flash temperature greater than about 100°C.
[0034] As used herein, "polymer" refers to a compound composed of at least two monomers.
[0035] As used herein, "free of" or "substantially free of" or "lacking" means that although it is preferred that the amount of a particular component is not present in the composition, very small amounts of the particular component can be present in the composition of the present invention, as long as these amounts do not substantially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the conditioning composition of the present invention. Thus, for example, "free of triethanolamine (TEA)" means that an effective amount (i.e., greater than a trace amount) of TEA (i.e., about 0% by weight) is omitted from the composition, "substantially free of TEA" means that TEA is present in an amount of no more than 0.1% by weight, and "lacking TEA" means that TEA is present in an amount of no more than 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The same nomenclature applies to all other ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph, such as oil (the compositions of the present invention "free of oil," "substantially free of oil," and "lacking oil" have meanings consistent with the discussion within this paragraph), even if no specific discussion is made for each identified ingredient. The examples discussed using such language are intended to be illustrative, not limiting.
[0036] As used herein, "makeup result" refers to a composition whose color observed by the naked eye remains the same or substantially the same as when applied after an extended period of time. "Makeup result" can be evaluated by evaluating long-term wear properties by any method known in the art. For example, long-term wear can be evaluated by a test that involves applying the composition to a keratin material (such as lips) and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of the composition can be evaluated immediately after it is applied to a keratin material (such as lips), and then these characteristics can be re-evaluated and compared after a certain period of time. In addition, these characteristics can be evaluated relative to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
[0037] "Keratinous material" or "keratin material" refers to natural nails, lips, skin such as face, body, hands and area around the eyes, and keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, human body hair), as well as synthetic additions such as false eyelashes, false eyebrows, false nails, etc.
[0038] "Physiologically acceptable" means compatible with keratin materials and having a pleasant color, smell and feel, and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tightness) that tends to prevent consumers from using such compositions. The acceptable pH level of the composition of the present invention is preferably acidic, i.e., less than 7, preferably 6.5 or less, preferably 6.0 or less, preferably 5.5 or less, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, such as 3 to 5, 4 to 6, 3 to 4.5, etc. The composition of the present invention may also be in the form of a gel composition.
[0039] A "gel composition" refers to a composition that does not flow like a liquid when applied to a substrate, a composition having a three-dimensional network that inhibits the composition from spreading or dripping on the substrate due to gravity after application within a short period of time (e.g., less than 10 seconds). G' (storage modulus) is higher than G" (loss modulus) in all strain ranges up to 300% strain. Preferably, at low strains, G' (storage modulus) is higher than G" (loss modulus), but as G' decreases and G" increases, the gel has a crossover point at >0.1% strain, preferably >1% strain, and preferably less than 200% strain, preferably less than 150% strain.
[0040] "Gel crossover point" (sol / gel point) refers to the point where G" (loss modulus) intersects G' (storage modulus), reported as % strain. It is the point at which the composition changes from a more solid state to a more liquid state. An example of a method for determining the gel crossover point is as follows: G" (loss modulus) and G' (storage modulus) are measured using a TA Instruments Discovery HR-3 rheometer with a 40 mm parallel plate geometry on a stainless steel flat Peltier plate. The test can be run at 25°C with test parameters of an angular frequency of 1.0 rad / s, and a logarithmic sweep: strain % 0.01 to 1000.0%. 5 points per decade. Results are reported in % strain.
[0041] Compositions having the properties described in the preceding paragraph are "fast-break gel compositions." When such compositions are used as a fixative composition for a previously applied cosmetic composition, there is less physical interaction with the applied cosmetic, resulting in less modification and alteration of the cosmetic composition during application of the fast-break gel composition.
[0042] "Hydrogen bonding interactions" refers to interactions involving hydrogen atoms of one of the two reagents and electronegative heteroatoms (such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine) of the other reagent. In the context of the present invention, hydrogen bonds are formed between the hydroxyl functional groups (OH) of the reactive phenolic groups of polyphenol X and the reactive hydroxyl groups of compound Y, which are capable of forming hydrogen bonds with those of said phenolic groups of polyphenol X.
[0043] "Coating agent formed by hydrogen bonding interaction of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups with compound Y" means that conditions are met so that a reaction can proceed between the two reagents, in particular:
[0044] i) the amount of polyphenol X in the composition containing it is sufficient, and ii) compound Y is soluble, miscible or dissolved by another solvent in the medium containing it, and iii) compound Y has a sufficient number of hydrogen bond acceptor groups to react with the phenolic groups of polyphenol X and to proceed in the medium of the composition containing it, and iv) compound Y, in the medium of the composition containing it, does not contain in its structure any groups that do not allow the formation of hydrogen bonds with the functional groups of the reactive phenolic groups of polyphenol X, such as one or more anionic groups.
[0045] "Natural compound" refers to any compound derived directly from a natural substance (eg, a plant) without having undergone any chemical modification.
[0046] "Compound of natural origin" refers to any compound that is derived from a natural compound and has been subjected to one or more chemical modifications (eg, by organic synthesis reactions) without changing the properties of the natural compound.
[0047] "Synthetic compound" refers to any compound that is neither a natural compound nor a compound of natural origin.
[0048] "Room temperature" refers to 25°C.
[0049] Atmospheric pressure refers to 760 mmHg, or 10 5 Pascal.
[0050] "Coating agent" means any compound capable of forming a deposit on the surface of a keratin material to which it has been applied.
[0051] "Hydrogen bond inhibitor" refers to any compound that is capable of preventing the hydrogen bond interaction between polyphenol X and compound Y and / or is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by disrupting hydrogen bonds.
[0052] "Precipitate" or "precipitate" refers to the result of hydrogen bonding interactions between polyphenol X and compound Y in the composition.
[0053] "Aggregates" or "aggregates" refer to the result of decomposition of Polyphenol X in the composition due to reactions such as hydrolysis and / or oxidation.
[0054] The compositions and methods of the present invention may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the basic elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For example, the solvent system may consist essentially of water and a C2-C5 monohydric alcohol, and / or the surfactant system may consist essentially of an identified surfactant or surfactant type discussed below.
[0055] For purposes of this invention, the "fundamental and novel properties" associated with compositions, components and methods "consisting essentially of" the identified ingredients or functions are those properties associated with the "fast-breaking gel compositions" defined above.
[0056] Trade names are used herein to refer to materials, including but not limited to polymers and optional components. The inventors herein do not intend to be limited by the materials described and referenced by a particular trade name. Materials equivalent to materials referenced by a trade name (e.g., materials obtained from a different source under a different name or catalog (reference) number) may be substituted and utilized in the methods described and claimed herein.
[0057] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated. All component or composition levels are referenced to the active level of that component or composition, and do not include impurities, such as residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources.
[0058] All U.S. patents or patent applications disclosed herein are expressly incorporated by reference in their entirety.
[0059] PolyphenolsX
[0060] According to the present invention, there is provided a composition comprising at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups.
[0061] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention contain at least two different phenolic groups in their structure.
[0062] The term "polyphenol" refers to any compound containing at least two and preferably at least three phenolic groups in its chemical structure.
[0063] The term "phenolic group" refers to any group comprising an aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, comprising at least one hydroxyl (OH) group.
[0064] The term "different phenolic groups" refers to phenolic groups that are chemically different.
[0065] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, especially in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols containing at least two phenolic groups that are differently substituted on the aromatic ring.
[0066] Two types of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
[0067] Examples of flavonoids that may be mentioned include chalcones, such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspartame or neohesperidin; flavanols, such as catechins, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyrocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonoids, such as chalcones, ... Ketoalcohols, such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxilidin) or silybin; flavanones, such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperidin, naringenin or naringin; anthocyanins, such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins, such as tannic acid; isoflavones, such as daidzein or genistein; neoflavanoids; lignans, such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.
[0068] Among the natural polyphenols that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignin.
[0069] Examples of non-flavonoid compounds that may be mentioned include curcuminoids, such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids, such as piceatannol glucoside, resveratrol or rhubarb glycoside; aurones, such as aurantin; and mixtures thereof.
[0070] As polyphenols which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; and phenol-substituted coumarins.
[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X will be selected from catechin tannins such as gallic tannins, selected from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castanea ellagitannin, quercetin, quercetin, castanea tannin, casuarin, ricin, exonaphthosides, grandinin, gradinin, roburins, pteridin, tellimagrandins, burnetin, potentillin, pedunculin, geraniol, chebulic acid, repandisinic acid, acid), ascorbic acid, stachyurin, casuarin, casuarin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodeoxygallic acid, deoxygallic acid, hellinoyl, punicalagin, and rhoipteleanins.
[0072] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract having the INCI name Camellia sinensis extract, in particular comprising at least 45% epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of the extract, such as the one sold under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90 by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care. The commercial product is sold or marketed by Tayo Green Power under the name Tea Polyphenols Green Tea Commercial products for sale.
[0073] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a proanthocyanidin or a mixture of proanthocyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark having the INCI name Pinus pinaster Bark / Bud Extract, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of proanthocyanidins relative to the total weight of the extract, such as provided by Biolandes Company Name Commercial products for sale.
[0074] Tannic acid will more particularly be used as polyphenol X.
[0075] According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol X according to the invention is preferably present in a content equal to or greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 0.8% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 1% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it (them).
[0076] According to a specific embodiment, the polyphenol X according to the present invention is preferably present in an amount of about 0.5 to about 30 wt %, preferably about 0.75 to about 25 wt %, preferably about 1 to about 25 wt %, and preferably about 2 to about 15 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it (them), including all ranges and subranges therebetween, such as 3 to 8 wt %, 0.5% to 7.5 wt %, 2 to 5 wt %, etc.
[0077] Nonionic Compounds Y
[0078] According to the invention, there is provided a composition comprising at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y. Preferably, the molar mass of the nonionic compound Y is greater than 200 g / mol.
[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylene compound" refers to a compound that contains in its chemical structure at least one oxyalkylene unit, in particular an oxyethylene unit -(OCH2CH2) n and / or oxypropylene units -(OCH2CH2CH2)p Any molecule of a chain where n and p are 2 or greater.
[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyglycerolated compound" refers to a compound that contains a glycerol group or a glycerol unit -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2) in its chemical structure. m any molecule having a chain of glycerol, wherein m is 2 or greater; "glycerolated compound" means a glycerol group or a glycerol unit -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2) in its chemical structure m any molecule of a chain of wherein m is 1; and "(poly)glycerolated compound" refers to a glycerol group or a glycerol unit -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2) in its chemical structure m Any molecule of a chain wherein m is 1 or greater.
[0081] In a preferred embodiment, the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 350 g / mol.
[0082] As examples of monoglycerolated or (poly)glycerolated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compounds Y, mention may be made of:
[0083] (1) Glyceryl alkyl ethers, such as glyceryl lauryl ether,
[0084] (2) (Poly)glycerolated alkyl ether nonionic surfactants, in particular selected from polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether and polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether,
[0085] (3) glycerol or polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, which are optionally polyhydroxylated, in particular selected from polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, stearic acid citrate glyceryl and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate,
[0086] (4) polyoxyethylenated or (poly)glycerolated waxes, in particular selected from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes, such as polyoxyethylenated jojoba wax, PEG-8 beeswax, PEG-60 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 lanolin and polyglycerol-3 beeswax,
[0087] (5)H(O-CH2-CH2) n-OH type polyethylene glycol, in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180 and PEG-220,
[0088] (6) HO-(CH2-CH2-O) n -(CHCH3-CH2-O)O-(CH2-CH2-O) p -H type poloxamer,
[0089] (7) The following types of polypropylene glycol alkyl ethers:
[0090] C n H 2n+1 -(OC(CH3)H-CH2) o -(O-CH2-CH2) p -OH
[0091] In particular, it is selected from PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-5-cetoeth-20 and PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30,
[0092] (8) Compounds of the following types:
[0093] H(OC(C n H 2n+1 )-CH2) o -(CH2-CH2-O) p -(CH2-C(C q H 2q+1 )HO) r H
[0094] Specifically PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer.
[0095] (9) Compounds of the following types: C n H 2n+1 -(O-CH2-CH2) o -O-CH2-C(C p H 2p+1 )HOH, especially Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol,
[0096] (10) polyoxyethylenated glycerol, in particular glycerol oxyethylenated with 26OE (glycereth-26),
[0097] (11)C n H 2n+1 -(O-CH2-CH2) o-OH type alkyl polyethylene glycol, in particular selected from ceteth-2, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, ceteth-25, isoceteth-20, laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-12, laureth-23, oleth-2, oleth-5, oleth-10, oleth-20, oleth-25, decaneth -3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, Steareth-2, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-100, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Cocoeth-7 and Trideceth-12,
[0098] (12)CH3-(CH2) n -(CH=CH) o -(CH) p -N((CH2-CH2-O)H) q ((CH2-CH2-O) r H) polyoxyethylenediamines, in particular: PEG-2-oleylamine,
[0099] (13) Fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol of the following types
[0100] C n H 2n+1 -(CH=CH2) o -C p H 2p -CO-(O-CH2-CH2) n -OH or
[0101] C n H 2n+1 -(CH=CH) o -C p H 2p -CO-(O-CH2-CH2) q -O-CO-C r H 2r+1 or
[0102] C n H 2n+1 -(CH=CH) o -CO-(O-CH2-CH2) q -OC n H 2n+1 or
[0103] C n H2n+1 -O-CH(alkyl)-(CH2) p -(O-CH2-CH2) q -O-CO-C r H 2r+1
[0104] In particular, selected from PEG-6 isostearate, PEG-6 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-75 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, Mereth-3 myristate, PEG-4 olivetate, propylene glycol ceteth-3 acetate and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate,
[0105] (14) polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides, in particular selected from PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-10 olive oil glycerides and PEG-45 palm kernel glycerides,
[0106] (15) polyoxyethylenated alkyl glucose, in particular selected from methyl-gluceth-10 and methyl-gluceth-20,
[0107] (16) polyoxyethylenated sugar esters, such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate or PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,
[0108] (17) polyoxyalkylene alkyl glycol ethers, such as PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether,
[0109] (18) polyoxyethylenated or (poly)glycerolated pentaerythritol esters and ethers, in particular selected from PEG-150 pentaerythritol tetrastearate,
[0110] (19) Polysorbates, in particular selected from polysorbate-20, polysorbate-21, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-61, polysorbate-80 and polysorbate-85,
[0111] (20) polyoxyethylene polyamines, in particular PEG-15 coconut oil polyamine,
[0112] (21) Polyoxyethylene dihydrocholesterol ester having the following structure:
[0113] [Chemical formula 1]
[0114]
[0115] Especially dihydrocholesterol polyether-30,
[0116] (22) a polyoxyethylenated component selected from a mixture of polyoxyethylenated (200OE) palm glycerides and polyoxyethylenated (7OE) coconut kernel oil, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-200 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-70 mango glycerides, hydrogenated palm / palm kernel oil PEG-6 esters, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate, and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate,
[0117] (23) Polyoxyethylene butters, in particular polyoxyethylene shea butter,
[0118] (24) polyoxyalkylened and / or (poly)glycerylated silicones, in particular selected from PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone, trideceth-9PG-amodimethicone and PEG / PPG-22 / 24 dimethicone,
[0119] (25) polyoxyalkylened and / or (poly)glycerolated silanes, in particular selected from bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane and bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane,
[0120] (26) Polyoxyethylenated or (poly)glycerolated acrylate copolymers, in particular the copolymers with the INCI name: Acrylates / Ceteth-25 Acrylate Copolymer,
[0121] (27) Polyoxyalkylene glycols, such as PEG-8 caprylyl glycol,
[0122] (28) polyoxyethylenated rapeseed amides and sterols, in particular selected from PEG-4 rapeseed amide and PEG-5 rapeseed sterol,
[0123] (29) Polyoxyethylene lanolin, such as lanolin alcohol polyether-15,
[0124] (30) polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters of sorbitol, such as PEG-40 sorbitan oleate,
[0125] (31) Polyoxyethylenated glycerol esters, such as glyceryl polyether-25PCA isostearate,
[0126] (32) Polyoxyethylenated or (poly)glycerolated acrylate copolymers, in particular those with the INCI name: Acrylates / Ceteth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, and
[0127] (33) Mixtures thereof.
[0128] According to a particular embodiment, the compound Y according to the invention is preferably present in a content equal to or greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 0.8% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 1% by weight, more particularly equal to or greater than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it (them).
[0129] According to a specific embodiment, the compound Y according to the invention is preferably present in a content of about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, preferably about 0.75 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 25% by weight, and preferably about 2 to about 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it (them), including all ranges and subranges therebetween, for example 3 to 8% by weight, 0.5 to 7.5% by weight, 2 to 5% by weight, etc.
[0130] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of polyphenol X to those hydroxyl groups of compound Y reactive with polyphenol X preferably ranges from 1 / 3 to 20 (20 / 1), preferably from 1 / 2 to 15 (15 / 1), and preferably from 3 / 4 to 4 (4 / 1).
[0131] Solvent system
[0132] According to the present invention, there is provided a composition comprising a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitates of compound X and compound Y in the composition prior to application.
[0133] Suitable C2-C5 monohydric alcohols include ethanol, propanol, butanol, amyl alcohol, isopropanol, isobutanol and isopentanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred.
[0134] Preferably, the C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in the composition of the present invention is present in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitates of compound X and compound Y in the composition prior to application. Preferably, the C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in the composition of the present invention is present in an amount of about 5% to about 75% by weight, preferably about 10% to about 65% by weight, preferably about 20% to about 55% by weight, and preferably about 25% to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, for example, about 25% to about 65%.
[0135] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises water. Preferably, based on the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises at least about 10% by weight of water, preferably about 10% by weight to about 75% by weight, preferably about 15% by weight to about 65% by weight, preferably about 20% by weight to about 55% by weight, and preferably about 25% by weight to about 50% by weight of water, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, for example about 35% to about 55%.
[0136] Preferably, the solvent component of the composition of the present invention consists essentially of water and C2-C5 monohydric alcohol, or consists of water and C2-C5 monohydric alcohol. Preferably, the solvent component of the composition "does not contain", "lacks" or "essentially contains" solvents other than water and C2-C5 monohydric alcohol.
[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is devoid of oil, contains no oil or is substantially free of oil.
[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention lacks, contains no or is substantially free of wax.
[0139] Gelling Agent
[0140] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a composition optionally further comprising at least one gelling agent. Suitable gelling agents include any gelling agent capable of providing thickening for a high alcohol content solvent system, such as acrylic acid (co)polymers, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising acrylic acid, optionally crosslinked, including some polymers identified as "carbomers", and amphiphilic polymers. Preferably, the gelling agent is an amphiphilic polymer.
[0141] The gelling agent, preferably an amphiphilic polymer, may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, preferably containing sulfonic acid groups, either in free form or in partially or completely neutralized form.
[0142] Suitable homopolymers or copolymers comprising acrylic acid, optionally crosslinked with a crosslinking agent such as polyalkenyl polyethers, divinyl glycol, and other crosslinking agents of similar structure, include carbomer-type polymers made from acrylic acid (and possibly from other monomers such as alkyl acrylates). Homopolymers (polyacrylic acid) may also be referred to as carboxyvinyl polymers. Commercial examples of suitable carbomer-type polymers include, but are not limited to, those manufactured by Lubrizol Corporation. Products such as 981, 9284 or Ultrez 10, as well as products from other manufacturers such as
[0143] Suitable amphiphilic polymers may contain at least one hydrophobic moiety. The hydrophobic moieties present in these polymers preferably contain 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0144] The amphiphilic polymer may have a molar mass of 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and preferably 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.
[0145] The amphiphilic polymer may be based on at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer A and at least one hydrophobic monomer B. Preferably, monomer A comprises a strong acid functional group, in particular a sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid functional group. The hydrophobic monomer B comprises at least one hydrophobic group selected from: a saturated or unsaturated C6-C 18 a straight-chain alkyl group (e.g., n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, or oleyl); a branched-chain alkyl group (e.g., isostearyl) or a cycloalkyl group (e.g., cyclododecane or adamantane); a C6-C 18 Fluorine or alkyl fluorine groups (e.g., groups of the formula -(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); cholesteryl groups or groups derived from cholesterol (e.g., cholesteryl hexanoate); aromatic polycyclic groups, such as naphthalene or pyrene; and silicone or alkyl silicone or alkyl fluorosilicone groups. Among these groups, straight-chain and branched alkyl groups are preferred.
[0146] The amphiphilic polymers may be water-soluble or water-dispersible in neutralized form.
[0147] The amphiphilic polymer can be crosslinked. The crosslinking agent can be selected from polyolefin unsaturated compounds such as those commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free radical polymerization. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylene bis acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking is preferably 0.01 mol % to 10 mol %, and preferably 0.2 mol % to 2 mol %, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the polymer.
[0148] The amphiphilic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
[0149] The amphiphilic polymer can be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine and mixtures thereof.
[0150] The amphiphilic polymer may be a water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymer and may also contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid groups, for example, optionally crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate, such as the polymer used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate), such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS@ by Clariant.
[0151] The amphiphilic polymer may be selected from crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic moiety containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0152] Suitable examples of amphiphilic polymers include, but are not limited to, hydrophobically modified sulfonic acid copolymers such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC from Clariant), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (Aristoflex HMB from Clariant) (cross-linked ethoxylated AMPS / behenyl methacrylate), ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (Aristoflex HMS) (ethoxylated copolymer of AMPS / octadecyl methacrylate cross-linked with trimethylol triacrylate), Aristoflex SNC (cross-linked ethoxylated AMPS / C16-C18), Aristoplex LNC (non-cross-linked AMPS / C12-C14), and mixtures thereof.
[0153] Preferably, if present, the gelling agent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 0.05 to about 5 weight %, preferably 0.1 to 2.5 weight %, preferably 0.3 to 2 weight %, and preferably 0.5 to 1 weight %, all weights being based on the weight of the entire composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, e.g., 0.1 to 1.5%, 0.25 to 1.25%, 0.4 to 0.75%, etc.
[0154] oil phase
[0155] According to an embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one oil. "Oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Suitable oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0156] Suitable oils include volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity of less than or equal to 6 cSt at room temperature and having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, which are optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that can be used in the present invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that can be used include KF 96A with a viscosity of 6 cSt, which is a commercial product from ShinEtsu with a flash point of 94°C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oil has a flash point of at least 40°C.
[0157] Suitable oils include non-silicone volatile oils and may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters and volatile ethers. Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and particularly branched C8 to C 16 Alkanes, such as C8 to C 16 Isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, and oils sold for example under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile non-silicone oil has a flash point of at least 40°C.
[0158] Suitable oils include synthetic oils or esters of the formula R5COOR6, wherein R5 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms (including 3 to 20 carbon atoms) with R6+R7≥10, such as purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 To C 15 Alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and caprylic, capric or ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyols; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; pentaerythritol esters; and synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0159] If present, the oil in the compositions of the present invention is present in an amount from about 0.1 wt % to about 20 wt %, more preferably from about 0.4 wt % to about 15 wt %, and preferably from about 0.5 wt % to about 10 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges within these ranges.
[0160] However, according to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free of oil, lack oil, or contain no oil.
[0161] However, according to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free of, lacking in, or free of volatile oils, such as isododecane.
[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is substantially free of silicone oil, free of silicone oil, or free of silicone oil, such as polydimethylsiloxane.
[0163] Colorants
[0164] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a composition which optionally further comprises at least one colorant.
[0165] According to this embodiment, the at least one colorant is preferably selected from pigments, dyes, such as fat-soluble dyes, pearlescent pigments and pearlescent agents.
[0166] Representative fat-soluble dyes that can be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, beta-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Annatto, and Quinoline Yellow.
[0167] The pearlescent pigments that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from white pearlescent pigments (such as mica coated with titanium or coated with bismuth oxychloride), colored pearlescent pigments (such as titanium mica with iron oxide, titanium mica with iron blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with organic pigments selected from those mentioned above) and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0168] Pigments that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, non-polymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and ferric blue, which are optionally surface treated. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D&C type pigments and lakes based on carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.
[0169] If present, coloring agents may be present in the compositions of the present invention in amounts insufficient to provide visual color to the composition (i.e., the color of the compositions of the present invention is the result of factors other than the presence of a coloring effective amount of the coloring agent, such as hydrolysis of polyphenol X which may provide color to the composition). Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are free of, substantially free of, or devoid of coloring agents as defined above.
[0170] Additional additives
[0171] The composition of the present invention may also include any additives commonly used in the field under consideration. For example, film formers, waxes, dispersants (such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid)), sunscreens, preservatives, fragrances, chelating agents, vitamins, antioxidants, fillers, neutralizers, cosmetic and dermatological active agents, moisturizers, silicone elastomers and mixtures thereof may be added. A non-exhaustive list of such ingredients can be found in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 0170586, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated herein by reference. Further examples of suitable additional components can be found in other references incorporated by reference in this application. Further examples of such additional ingredients can be found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th edition, 2002). However, it should be understood that preferred embodiments of the present invention include compositions that are "free of", "substantially free of" or "lacking" the ingredients discussed in this paragraph (such as film formers and waxes).
[0172] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and / or their amounts such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially affected adversely by the intended addition.
[0173] Those skilled in the art can make various selections from these materials to prepare a composition having desired properties (eg, consistency or texture).
[0174] It goes without saying that the composition according to the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, ie it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be capable of being applied to human eyelashes.
[0175] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials is provided by applying the composition of the present invention to the keratin materials in an amount sufficient to care for and / or make up the keratin materials. Similarly, a preferred embodiment of the present invention comprises a method for priming keratin materials for cosmetic compositions and / or setting a cosmetic composition previously applied to a keratin material by applying the composition of the present invention to the keratin material before applying the cosmetic composition (priming) and / or by applying the composition of the present invention on a cosmetic composition previously applied to a keratin material (setting).
[0176] Preferably, "making up" a keratin material comprises applying to the keratin material (either in the composition itself or in a pigmented coating composition applied over or under the composition as described above) at least one colorant in an amount sufficient to provide the keratin material with color.
[0177] According to the aforementioned preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention is topically applied to the desired keratin material. The composition can be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice a day, more preferably once a day, and then preferably allowed to dry before being subjected to contact with, for example, clothing or other objects (e.g., a pigmented coating composition or a topcoat applied over the composition). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 1 minute or less, more preferably about 45 seconds or less.
[0178] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a method for stabilizing polyphenol X in terms of the "fast-breaking gel property" as defined above, wherein the composition, in particular a fixative composition for cosmetics, comprises (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y, and (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitates of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application, wherein the method comprises adding at least one gelling agent to the composition during the preparation of the composition in an amount sufficient to provide the "fast-breaking gel composition" property as defined above in the composition. The amount of at least one gelling agent added to the composition during the preparation of the composition to provide the "fast-breaking gel composition" property is preferably those amounts discussed above in conjunction with these ingredients.
[0179] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the kit comprises as a separate composition in one or more containers within the kit, (A) a composition, in particular a makeup fixer composition for cosmetics, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylened nonionic compound Y, (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitation of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application, and (4) at least one gelling agent; and (B) providing at least one other composition, such as a colored coating composition comprising at least one colorant. Preferably, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0180] Compositions (A) and (B) may be contained in different parts or sections of the same container within the kit. However, compositions (A) and (B) may also be placed in different containers together with the kit.
[0181] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the kit for application to keratin materials comprises (A) at least one first layer of at least one composition, in particular a fixative composition for cosmetics, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylened nonionic compound Y, (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitation of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application, and (4) at least one gelling agent; and (B) providing at least one second layer of a colored coating composition comprising at least one colorant, wherein the at least one second layer is applied on top of (wherein the composition of the invention is a primer composition) at least one first layer (wherein the composition of the invention is a fixative composition). Preferably, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0182] Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention include:
[0183] A composition comprising (a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups; (b) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y having a molar mass greater than 200 g / mol; (c) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitates of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application; and (d) at least one gelling agent;
[0184] The composition of the foregoing embodiment is in the form of a gel composition;
[0185] The composition of any preceding embodiment, (1) wherein the at least one gelling agent is a carbomer, and / or (2) wherein the at least one gelling agent comprises at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group, the sulfonic acid group being in free form or in partially or completely neutralized form, the at least one gelling agent preferably comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid group;
[0186] The composition of any preceding embodiment, wherein the at least one polyphenolic compound X is tannic acid;
[0187] The composition of any preceding embodiment, wherein the molar mass of the at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y is greater than 200 g / mol;
[0188] The composition of any preceding embodiment, wherein the at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol is ethanol;
[0189] The composition of any preceding embodiment, wherein the pH is less than 7, wherein the composition is substantially free of colorants, or both;
[0190] The composition of any preceding embodiment, comprising (a) from about 0.5 to about 15 weight percent of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups; (b) from about 0.5 to about 15 weight percent of at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y; (c) from about 25 to about 65 weight percent of at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol; (d) from about 0.3 to about 2 weight percent of at least one gelling agent; and (e) from about 20 to about 55 weight percent of water, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;
[0191] A method of making up a keratin material, the method comprising applying a color coating composition to a keratin material to form an applied composition, and applying the composition of any of the preceding embodiments onto the applied composition; and
[0192] A method of making up a keratin material, the method comprising applying the composition of any preceding embodiment to the keratin material to form an applied composition, and applying a color coating composition on the applied composition.
[0193] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.
[0194] Although the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximate, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors, which are necessarily caused by the standard deviation found in its respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof. Percentages are given on a weight basis. Example
[0195] Example I - Sample Preparation
[0196] Element Preferred range Specific scope Polyphenol X (such as tannic acid) 0.5-15% 2-8% Nonionic Compounds Y 0.5-15% 2-8% Monohydric alcohol 25-65% 25-45% water 10-65% 20-55% Gelling Agent 0.1-2.5% 0.3-2% Others (preservatives, antioxidants, fillers, etc.) 0-5% 0-2%
[0197] Example II - Composition Preparation
[0198] Compositions falling within the preferred ranges for the ingredients used in Example I were prepared as reflected in the following table.
[0199]
[0200] Example III - Testing Protocol
[0201] A. Rheological test
[0202] The quick-break properties of the composition can be tested using a rheometer from TA Instruments. A 40 mm parallel plate geometry on a stainless steel flat Peltier plate can be used. The test can be conducted at 25°C with an angular frequency of 1.0 rad / s and a logarithmic sweep: strain % 0.01 to 1000.0%. 5 points per decade. Results are reported in % strain. As discussed above, as the "gel crossover point".
[0203] Example IV - Test Results
[0204] The compositions of the present invention were prepared according to the above Examples 1 and 2. Compositions 1 to 4 of the present invention were prepared with 2% polyphenol X compound and 2% nonionic compound Y, each containing 0.8% of a different polymer thickener.
[0205] Inventive Composition 1 and Inventive Composition 2 were prepared, each containing 0.8% of a different acryloyldimethyltaurate polymer (one as a homopolymer and one as a copolymer).
[0206] Inventive Composition 3 and Inventive Composition 4 were prepared, each containing 0.8% of a different carbomer.
[0207] Each of the inventive compositions is a gel composition having fast-break properties that satisfy the storage modulus and loss modulus properties discussed above for the "gel composition," as well as the gel crossover characteristics discussed above.
[0208] The crossover point of the composition 1 of the present invention: 29%,
[0209] The crossover point of the composition 2 of the present invention: 17%,
[0210] Inventive composition 3 crossover point: 25%, and
[0211] Crossover point of composition 4 of the present invention: 45%.
[0212] Composition 5 of the present invention was prepared with 5% of polyphenol compound X and 5% of nonionic compound Y, which contained 1.25% of acryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymer. Its crossover point was 88%.
[0213] Each of the inventive compositions is a gel composition having fast-break properties that satisfy the storage modulus and loss modulus properties discussed above for the "gel composition," as well as the gel crossover characteristics discussed above.
[0214] Six comparative compositions were also prepared that were identical to the compositions of the present invention except that they contained different gelling agents at a concentration level of 0.8%.
[0215] The gelling agents used in the comparative compositions are hydroxypropyl guar gum, carrageenan, pullullan, hydroxypropyl cellulose, xanthan gum and laponite. None of these compositions are gel compositions having fast-breaking properties that satisfy the storage modulus and loss modulus properties discussed above in the "gel composition".
[0216] The comparative composition containing hydroxypropyl guar gum had no gel crossover points.
[0217] The comparative composition containing xanthan gum was a slow breaking gel having 185% crossover points.
[0218] The comparative composition containing carrageenan did not thicken sufficiently.
[0219] The comparative composition containing clay had a color that darkened over time and this was unacceptable.
Claims
1. A composition comprising (a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups; (b) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y having a molar mass greater than 200 g / mol; (c) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of precipitates of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application; and (d) at least one gelling agent.
2. The composition of claim 1, which is in the form of a gel composition.
3. The composition of any preceding claim, (1) wherein the at least one gelling agent is a carbomer, and / or (2) wherein the at least one gelling agent comprises at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group, the sulfonic acid group being in free form or in partially or completely neutralized form, the at least one gelling agent preferably comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid group.
4. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one polyphenolic compound X is tannic acid.
5. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y has a molar mass of greater than 200 g / mol.
6. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol is ethanol.
7. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the pH is less than 7, wherein the composition is substantially free of colorants, or both.
8. The composition of any preceding claim, comprising (a) from about 0.5 to about 15 weight % of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups; (b) from about 0.5 to about 15 weight % of at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y; (c) from about 25 to about 65 weight % of at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol; (d) from about 0.3 to about 2 weight % of at least one gelling agent; and (e) from about 20 to about 55 weight % of water, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
9. A method of making up a keratin material, comprising applying a colour coating composition to the keratin material to form an applied composition, and applying a composition as claimed in any preceding claim to the applied composition.
10. A method of making up a keratin material comprising applying a composition as claimed in any preceding claim to said keratin material to form an applied composition, and applying a colour coating composition to said applied composition.
Citation Information
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