Preparation method of shirt upper sleeves
Through the preparation method of sleeves on the shirt, including sleeve sheet sample production and sleeve cage setting, the existing shirt sleeves are solved, and the fullness of the sleeves and the natural comfort of arm movement are achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411797420.7
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-09
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-28
AI Technical Summary
The existing method of making shirt sleeves leads to a large, unfitted sleeve body, limited movement, and easy hanging on the bottom of the sleeve.
A method of preparing shirt upper sleeves is adopted, and the sleeve cages are made by sleeves, sleeve cages, sleeve cages, front and back squint, sleeve sewing, sleeve sewing, upper sleeves and overall ironing are used to ensure the shape and fit of the sleeves.
It achieves full shirt sleeves, natural and comfortable arms movement, and is not pulled. The overall curved lines of the sleeves are smooth, and the sleeves are upright and stylish.
Smart Images
Figure CN119523198A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention relates to sleeve processing, in particular to a method for preparing a shirt upper sleeve. Background Art
[0002] The existing production sequence of one-piece sleeves is to assemble the shoulder seams first, then assemble the sleeves, also called flat sleeves, and finally assemble the hem seams and the sleeve bottom seams together, and only the sleeve caps are partially shaped. The problem is that the sleeves are enlarged and ill-fitting, and when the arms are raised, the sleeve bottoms will hang up with the clothes, and the movements are restricted, resulting in a series of disadvantages such as enlargement, looseness, difficulty in movement, and shapelessness. Summary of the invention
[0003] The present invention aims to solve the above defects and provides a method for preparing a shirt upper sleeve.
[0004] In order to overcome the defects in the background technology, the technical solution adopted by the present invention to solve the technical problem is: the preparation method of the shirt sleeve comprises: The first step is to make the sleeve sample: a. Determine the height of the sleeve cap height, which is 1 / 3 of the sleeve length on the front and back body plus 3cm; b. Draw the sleeve fat line from the front end to the back end of the sleeve; c. Draw the sleeve cap height line from the top of the sleeve piece to the sleeve fat line, and cut the sleeve top notch 1cm behind the top of the sleeve cap height line on the sleeve piece; Step 2: Making the armholes of the front and back bodice: a. Place the prepared pattern on the upper layer of the fabric of the front body and the back body to be made, align the pattern with the front center axis as the alignment line, and then use the cutting tool to cut along the edge of the pattern. The front body and the back body should be cut synchronously; b. Make a notch on the front sleeve at 1cm away from the clean edge as the base point for the upper sleeve seam alignment. The length of the notch is 0.15cm. c. Place the front body of the garment on the production table with the front side facing up, and start sewing from the side seam. Sewing 3 stitches every 1cm. The distance between the sewing stitch and the front sleeve cage edge on the front body is 0.3cm. When sewing to 1.5~2CM, hold the sample with your right hand and push it forward with your left hand. The amount of sewing should be between 0.8-1CM. The stitches should be even until the sewing is finished. The back body should be processed in the same way as the front body. Step 3: Making the sleeves and armholes: a. Place the sleeve pattern made in the first step on top of the sleeve fabric, align the central axis of the sleeve pattern with the radial threads of the sleeve fabric, then use the cutting tool to cut along the edge of the sleeve pattern, and finally make a 0.15cm long sleeve vertex notch with the notch on the sleeve pattern; b. Place the sleeve piece on the workbench, with the front side facing up, and sew from the bottom of the front sleeve piece, sew 3 stitches every 1cm, and the stitches should be 0.3cm away from the edge of the sleeve piece. When sewing, hold the sleeve piece with your right hand and push it forward with your left hand. The amount of movement should be between 1-1.5CM, and the movement and stitches should be kept until the sleeve piece is sewn; Step 4: Sew the front and back body together: a. The front and back bodies are aligned, the front body is placed below the back body, and the front body is 1 cm beyond the back body. Start from the sleeve bottom seam (15) after the front and back bodies overlap, cover the back seam by 0.4 cm, and sew 13-14 stitches every 3 cm. The stitches are even, and the starting and ending points need to be reinforced by backstitching 2-3 times; b. When sewing to the end of the bottom of the garment body, you need to lift the presser foot and move the garment body parallel to the top at the beginning, with the front side on top. Sew a 0.3CM stop line and sew 16-18 stitches for every 3CM of seam; c. Move the sewn front and back parts of the garment to the ironing table, step on the suction fan, and iron the seams along the joints of the garment to make them flat; Step 5: Sew the sleeves: a. Fold the sleeves together and lay them flat on the workbench, with the reverse side facing up. Leave 1cm of the front sleeve seam to cover the back sleeve seam. Sew 0.4cm from top to bottom. Sew 13-14 stitches every 3cm. Backsew 2-3 stitches back and forth at the beginning and end to reinforce. b. When sewing to the cuff, lift the presser foot, move the cylindrical sleeve piece to the top, with the front side facing up, sew two 0.3cm stop lines, and sew 16-18 stitches every 3cm; c. Place the finished sleeves on the arm-shaped ironing table and iron them along the curved seams; Step 6: Upper sleeves: a. Place the sewn front body, back body and sleeves flat on the workbench, trim the seams and make the armholes round; b. The sleeve piece is at the bottom, and the front and back body after sewing are at the top. The sleeve piece is 1.6CM beyond the body, and the sleeve bottom seam is aligned with the cut on the front body. The sleeve piece is 0.6CM above the upper line of the body. The sewing line should be laid flat at the straight wire of the front and back body. At the same time, the left hand should hold the body and push forward along the arc of the sleeve cage. The sleeve piece should be laid flat 5-8CM from the top of the sleeve, and sewn flat along the sleeve piece shaping line. The top point of the sleeve should be aligned with the shoulder point of the body. Then the other half should be made with the same method and gestures. c. Turn the sleeve of the garment to the front and check whether the sleeve line is round and smooth, whether the amount is even, and whether the straight thread of the sleeve on the front and back of the garment is bad. After quality assurance, the sleeve of the garment is facing up, and the seam is sewn along the edge of the sleeve seam 0.6CM, and 16-18 stitches are sewn every 3CM; Step 7: Overall pressing: Put the front of the finished garment with the sleeves on the mold with curved lines, turn on the suction, and iron in sections along the shape of the armhole of the garment, until it reaches 5-8cm before and after the top of the sleeve. Hold the upper ironing plate with your right hand, press down for 8-10 seconds to shape the armhole, so that the lines of the armhole of the garment are naturally smooth and stylish.
[0005] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the length of the sleeve fat line is further comprised of 28-30cm.
[0006] The beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: the preparation method of the shirt sleeves is characterized by special processing on the pattern, and the front and rear sleeve caps and sleeve caps are shaped, so that the shirt sleeve caps are full, the armpits can move naturally and comfortably without being pulled when the arms are raised, the overall curved lines of the sleeves are smooth, and the sleeves are upright and stylish. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0007] The present invention is further described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and embodiments.
[0008] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the structure of the sleeve; Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of the structure of the front body and the back body; Figure 3 It is a schematic diagram of the structure after the front body and the back body are sewn together; Figure 4 It is a schematic diagram of the structure of the armhole formed after the front body, the back body and the sleeve piece are sewn together; Figure 5 It is a structural diagram of the front sleeve cage garment diagram; Figure 6 It is a schematic diagram of the structure of the model armhole; Figure 7 It is a structural diagram of the back sleeve cage garment diagram; Figure 8 This is a schematic diagram of the structure of a conventional armhole; Among them: 1. Front body, 2. Side seams, 3. Sewing, 4. Front sleeve edge, 5. Sleeve vertex notch, 6. Notch, 7. Back body, 8. Alignment line, 9. Center axis, 10. Sleeve bottom seam, 11. Sleeve cap height line, 12. Sleeve fat line, 13. Sleeve piece, 14. Sleeve bottom, 15. Sleeve bottom seam, 16. Front sleeve seam, 17. Back sleeve seam, 18. Top, 19. Stop line one, 20. Stop line two. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0009] In order to make the purpose, technical solution and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solution in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described in combination with the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments in the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention. Example
[0010] A method for preparing a shirt upper sleeve comprises: The first step is to make the sleeve sample. Figure 1 As shown: a. Determine the height of the sleeve cap height 11, which is the length of the sleeve cap on the 1 / 3 front body 1 and the back body 7 plus 3cm; b. Draw the sleeve fat line 12 from the front end point to the rear end point of the sleeve piece; c. Draw the sleeve cap height line 11 from the top of the sleeve piece to the sleeve fat line 12, and cut the sleeve top notch 5 on the sleeve piece, 1 cm behind the top of the sleeve cap height line 11; In this step, the jacket-style upper sleeve concept is applied to the shirt sleeve production. According to the definition of the jacket upper sleeve cap height, the 1 / 3 front body 1, back body 7 upper sleeve cage length plus 3cm is taken as the sleeve cap height 11, and the sleeve cap height 11 is applied to the shirt sleeve cap height. Secondly, the shirt sleeve width is usually 31-32CM, but according to the sleeve fitting concept, the sleeve width comfort scale is redefined according to the body shape of different customers, and is determined by the customer's arm circumference + 8~10CM. The size of the sleeve width line 12 is adjusted to 28-30CM. The sleeve vertex is determined by the sleeve width. Draw a straight line at three points and make the curvature of the sleeve cap according to the range of motion of the sleeve cap. The normal range of motion of the human arm is ∠45-60. When the sleeve size fits, the curvature of the sleeve cap is adjusted to 0.8-1CM. When adjusting the curvature of the sleeve cap, the curvature of the sleeve cap of the body is adjusted synchronously. The curvature of the sleeve cap of the front body changes between 0.5-0.8CM, and the curvature of the sleeve cap of the back body changes between 0.3-0.5CM. The center point of the adjusted sleeve piece is moved 1cm backwards and sewn with the front and back body hem seams in an offset manner. The arms bend naturally when hanging down, and the sleeve lines are smooth and fit.
[0011] Step 2: Make the armholes of the front body 1 and the back body 7. Figure 2 As shown: a. Place the prepared sample on the upper layer of the fabric of the front body 1 and the back body 7 to be made, use the front center axis as the alignment line 8, align the sample, and then use the cutting tool to cut along the edge of the sample, and cut the front body 1 and the back body 7 synchronously; b. Make a notch 6 as the alignment base point of the upper sleeve seam on the armhole of the front body 1 1cm away from the clean edge. The length of the notch 6 is 0.15cm. In this step, only the front body 1 needs to make the notch 6, and the back body 7 does not need this notch. The distance of the notch 6 is used as the alignment base point of the upper sleeve seam, so that the sleeve piece and the sleeve bottom of the body are accurately aligned, so that the arm can move more freely when raised, without being pulled, and improve comfort; c. Place the front body 1 on the production table with the front side facing up, start sewing stitch 3 from the side seam 2, and sew 3 stitches every 1CM. The distance between the sewing stitch 3 and the front armhole edge 4 on the front body 1 is 0.3cm. When sewing to 1.5~2CM, hold the sample with your right hand and push it forward with your left hand. The amount of stitching should be between 0.8-1CM. The stitches should be even until the sewing is completed. The back body 7 should be processed in the same way as the front body 1. This production allows the front and back body armholes and sleeve piece armholes to be perfectly shaped, and the armholes will not be deformed due to the pulling of the straight wire of the body armhole during the sleeve-applying process.
[0012] In this step, during the conventional sleeve-installing operation, only the sleeve pieces are stitched and shaped. When the sleeves are put on the garment, the front and back bodies will be pulled and deformed at the straight wires. Further innovation is made on this basis. From the perspective of three-dimensional cutting, the sleeve cage shaping of the front body 1 and the back body 7 is added. The sleeve piece sleeve cage is completely consistent with the front body 1 and the back body 7 sleeve cage, and the upper sleeve arc is smooth. When the arms are lowered after wearing, the front and back body sleeve cage straight wires are flat and fit without lifting or deterioration, and the sleeves are more fitted to the body shape, fuller and more stylish.
[0013] The third step is to make the sleeves and armholes. Figure 1 As shown: a. Place the sleeve pattern made in the first step on the sleeve fabric 13, align the central axis 9 of the sleeve pattern with the radial threads of the sleeve fabric 13, then use a cutting tool to cut along the edge of the sleeve pattern, and finally make a 0.15 cm long sleeve vertex notch 5 with the notch on the sleeve pattern; b. Place the sleeve piece 13 on the workbench, with the front side facing up, and sew the stitch 8 from the sleeve bottom 14 of the front sleeve piece, 3 stitches per 1cm, and the stitch 8 is 0.3cm away from the edge of the sleeve piece. When sewing, hold the sleeve piece with your right hand and push it forward with your left hand. The amount of push is between 1-1.5CM, and the push and stitch are maintained until the sleeve piece is sewn. This production allows the front and back sleeves and the sleeves to be perfectly shaped, and the sleeves will not be deformed due to the pull of the sleeve straight wire during the sleeve-sleeving process; Step 4: Sew the front body 1 and the back body 7 together. Figure 3 As shown: a. The front body 1 and the back body 7 are aligned, the front body 1 is placed below the back body 7, and the front body 1 is 1cm longer than the back body 7. Start from the sleeve bottom seam 15 after the front body 1 and the back body 7 overlap, cover the front and back stitches by 0.4CM, and sew 13-14 stitches every 3CM. The stitches are even, and the starting and ending points need to be reinforced by 2-3 stitches back and forth; b. When sewing to the end of the bottom of the garment body, you need to lift the presser foot and move the garment body parallel to the top at the beginning, with the front side on top. Sewing a 0.3CM stop line 19, and sewing 16-18 stitches every 3CM of stitches; c. Move the sewn front body 1 and back body 7 to the ironing table, step on the suction, and iron the seams along the joints of the body to make them flat; Step 5: Sew the sleeves. Figure 4 As shown: a. Fold the sleeve piece 13 together and lay it flat on the operating table, with the reverse side facing up. Leave 1cm of the front sleeve seam 16 to cover the back sleeve seam 17. Sew 0.4cm from top to bottom, and sew 13-14 stitches every 3cm. Backsew 2-3 stitches back and forth at the beginning and end to reinforce. b. When sewing to the cuff, lift the presser foot, move the cylindrical sleeve piece to the top 18, with the front side facing up, sew 0.3cm stop line 20, and sew 16-18 stitches every 3cm; c. Place the prepared sleeve piece 13 on the arm-shaped ironing table and iron it flat along the curved seam; Step 6: Upper sleeves: a. Place the sewn front body 1, back body 7, and sleeve piece 13 flat on the workbench, trim the seams, and trim the armholes to make them round and smooth; b. The sleeve piece 13 is at the bottom, and the front body 1 and the back body 7 are at the top after being sewn. The sleeve piece 13 is 1.6CM beyond the body, and the sleeve bottom seam 10 is aligned with the notch 6 on the front body 1. The sleeve piece 13 covers the upper line of the body by 0.6CM. The stitching line needs to be laid flat at the straight wires of the front body 1 and the back body 7. At the same time, the left hand needs to hold the body and push forward along the arc of the sleeve cage. The sleeve piece needs to be laid flat at 5-8CM from the top of the sleeve, and stitched flat along the shaping line track of the sleeve piece 13. The top of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder point of the body. Then the other half is made with the same method and gestures. This production allows the front and back body armholes and the sleeve piece armholes to be perfectly shaped, and the straight wires of the body armholes will not be pulled during the sleeve-sleeving process, causing the armholes to be deformed; c. Turn the sleeve of the garment to the front and check whether the sleeve line is round and smooth, whether the amount is even, and whether the straight thread of the sleeve on the front and back of the garment is bad. After quality assurance, the sleeve of the garment is facing up, and the seam is sewn along the edge of the sleeve seam 0.6CM, and 16-18 stitches are sewn every 3CM; Step 7: Overall pressing: Put the front of the finished sleeve on the mold with curved lines, turn on the suction, and iron along the shape of the sleeve hole of the garment body in sections, ironing to 5-8CM before and after the sleeve top. Hold the upper pressing plate with your right hand, press down and iron for 8-10 seconds to shape the sleeve hole, so that the sleeve hole line of the finished garment is naturally smooth and stylish. The sleeve hole after ironing should be as follows: Figure 5-7 As shown, Figure 8 This is a ready-made garment pattern with regular armholes. You can see that the sleeves are oversized and do not fit the body. Example
[0014] Among them, the fourth and fifth steps only need two actions to complete them, and they are made in one go by the double needle buried clamping machine. When the front and back bodies are sewn, the back piece is on the top and the front piece is on the bottom. The back is wrapped and the front is put on the machine at one time. The double needle spacing is 0.1+0.6CM. The left and right hem seams start from the sleeve bottom seam 15 on one side and the hem on the other side. When sewing one sleeve, the back sleeve seam 17 is on the top and the front sleeve seam 16 is on the bottom. The back is wrapped and the front is put on the machine at one time. The double needle spacing is 0.1+0.6CM. The left and right sleeve bottom seams start from the top 18 on one side and the cuff on the other side. This method can reduce the number of processes, improve production efficiency, and increase output.
[0015] The other steps are the same as those in the first embodiment.
[0016] The above description is only a preferred specific implementation manner of the present invention, but the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. Any technician familiar with the technical field can make equivalent replacements or changes according to the technical scheme and inventive concept of the present invention within the technical scope disclosed by the present invention, which should be covered by the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims
1. A method for preparing a shirt sleeve, characterized in that: The preparation method comprises: The first step is to make the sleeve sample: a. Determine the height of the sleeve cap height line (11), which is the length of the sleeve cap (11) of the 1 / 3 front body (1) and the back body (7) plus 3 cm; b. Draw the sleeve fat line from the front end to the back end of the sleeve (12); c. Draw a sleeve cap height line (11) from the top of the sleeve piece to the sleeve fat line (12), and cut the sleeve top notch (5) on the sleeve piece, 1 cm behind the top of the sleeve cap height line (11); Step 2: Making the armholes of the front body (1) and the back body (7): a. Place the prepared sample on the upper layer of the fabric of the front body (1) and the back body (7) to be made, align the sample using the front center axis as the alignment line (8), and then use a cutting tool to cut along the edge of the sample, and the front body (1) and the back body (7) are cut synchronously; b. Make a notch (6) on the armhole of the front body (1) at a distance of 1 cm from the clean edge as the base point for the upper sleeve seam alignment. The length of the notch (6) is 0.15 cm; c. Place the front body (1) on the production table with the front side facing upwards, and start sewing the stitches (3) from the side seam (2). Sewing 3 stitches every 1cm. The distance between the stitches (3) and the front sleeve cage edge (4) on the front body (1) is 0.3cm. Sew until 1.5~2cm. Hold the sample with your right hand and push it forward with your left hand. The amount of stitching should be between 0.8-1cm. The stitches should be even until the sewing is completed. The back body (7) is processed in the same way as the front body (1). Step 3: Making the sleeves and armholes: a. Place the sleeve pattern made in the first step on top of the sleeve fabric (13), align the central axis (9) of the sleeve pattern with the radial threads of the sleeve fabric (13), then use a cutting tool to cut along the edge of the sleeve pattern, and finally make a 0.15 cm long sleeve vertex notch (5) with the notch on the sleeve pattern; b. Place the sleeve piece (13) on the workbench, with the front side facing up, and sew the stitches (8) from the sleeve bottom (14) of the front sleeve piece, 3 stitches per 1cm, with the stitches (8) 0.3cm away from the edge of the sleeve piece. When sewing, hold the sleeve piece with your right hand and push it forward with your left hand, with the amount of movement between 1-1.5cm, and keep moving and stitching until the sleeve piece is sewn; Step 4: Sew the front body (1) and the back body (7) together: a. The front body (1) and the back body (7) are aligned with each other, the front body (1) is placed below the back body (7), and the front body (1) is 1 cm beyond the back body (7). Start from the sleeve bottom seam (15) after the front body (1) and the back body (7) overlap, and wrap the front and back stitches 0.4 cm. Sewing 13-14 stitches every 3 cm, with even stitches. The starting and ending points need to be reinforced with 2-3 stitches back and forth; b. When sewing to the end of the bottom of the garment body, you need to lift the presser foot and move the garment body parallel to the top at the beginning, with the front side facing up. Sew a 0.3CM stop line (19), and sew 16-18 stitches for every 3CM of seam; c. Move the sewn front body (1) and back body (7) to the ironing table, step on the suction, and use your hands to iron the seams along the joints of the body to make them flat; Step 5: Sew the sleeves: a. Fold the sleeve piece (13) together and lay it flat on the operating table, with the reverse side facing up. Leave 1cm of the front sleeve seam (16) to cover the back sleeve seam (17). Sew 0.4cm from top to bottom, and 13-14 stitches every 3cm. Backstitch 2-3 stitches back and forth at the beginning and end to reinforce. b. When sewing to the cuff, lift the presser foot and move the sleeve piece to the top (18), with the front side facing up, and sew two 0.3 cm stop lines (20). Sew 16-18 stitches every 3 cm of stitches. c. Place the prepared sleeve piece (13) on the arm-shaped ironing table and iron it along the curved seam line; Step 6: Upper sleeves: a. Place the sewn front body (1), back body (7) and sleeve piece (13) flat on a workbench, trim the seams and make the sleeve holes round; b. The sleeve piece (13) is at the bottom, and the front body (1) and the back body (7) are at the top after being sewn. The sleeve piece (13) is 1.6CM beyond the body. The sleeve bottom seam (10) is aligned with the notch (6) on the front body (1). The sleeve piece (13) is 0.6CM above the upper line of the body. The stitching line should be laid flat at the straight thread of the front body (1) and the back body (7). At the same time, the left hand should hold the body and push forward along the arc of the sleeve cage. The sleeve piece should be laid flat at 5-8CM from the top of the sleeve. The sleeve piece should be stitched flat along the shaping line of the sleeve piece (13). The top of the sleeve should be aligned with the shoulder point of the body. Then the other half should be made with the same method and gestures. c. Turn the sleeve of the garment to the front and check whether the sleeve line is round and smooth, whether the amount is even, and whether the straight thread of the sleeve on the front and back of the garment is bad. After quality assurance, the sleeve of the garment is facing up, and the seam is sewn along the edge of the sleeve seam 0.6CM, and 16-18 stitches are sewn every 3CM; Step 7: Overall pressing: Put the front of the finished garment with the sleeves on the mold with curved lines, turn on the suction, and iron in sections along the shape of the armhole of the garment, until it reaches 5-8cm before and after the top of the sleeve. Hold the upper ironing plate with your right hand, press down for 8-10 seconds to shape the armhole, so that the lines of the armhole of the garment are naturally smooth and stylish.
2. The method for preparing the shirt sleeve according to claim 1, characterized in that: The length of the sleeve fat line (12) is 28-30 cm.