A composition with whitening and lightening effect, applications and cosmetics

Abstract

The application belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and discloses a composition with whitening and lightening effects, which comprises a whitening component, a component comprising plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine; the component comprising plant cell culture or extract comprises sea fennel callus culture filtrate and flower / leaf extract of high mountain firebush; the weight ratio of the sea fennel callus culture filtrate and the flower / leaf extract of high mountain firebush is 0.01-0.5:0.01-5. By using the combination of the whitening component, the component comprising plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine, the whitening effect and lightening effect of the whitening component can be improved, and the applicability to sensitive skin can be improved. Meanwhile, the application also provides applications based on the composition.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the field of daily chemical industry, in particular to a composition with whitening and lightening effect, application and cosmetic. BACKGROUND

[0002] Due to the influence of ultraviolet rays, pollutants, stress and other factors in daily life, many people are facing the problem of dull and uneven skin color.

[0003] Plant callus has been increasingly used as an important ingredient in whitening formulations.

[0004] The applicant BIO FD&C Co., Ltd. has earlier studied the application of extracts of Ledum palustre plant cell cultures or Ledum palustre adventitious root cultures in the manufacture of skin whitening, pore shrinking, skin wrinkle inhibiting, sebum inhibiting, acne inhibiting, skin barrier protecting skin external preparation compositions; disclosed as CN106924316B, the subject is a skin external preparation composition containing Ledum palustre plant cell culture extract and its manufacturing method; it proves that the extract of Ledum palustre plant cell culture or the extract of Ledum palustre adventitious root culture has antioxidant effect, collagen production increasing effect, moisturizing effect, wrinkle improvement effect, anti-inflammatory effect, pore shrinking effect, cortex inhibiting effect, cell protection effect, anti-aging effect, barrier mechanism, inhibition effect on tyrosinase;

[0005] The applicant BIO FD&C Co., Ltd. further proposed a patent application with the subject of skin improvement cosmetic composition containing plant cell complex culture, disclosed as CN111202708A, which records: a skin improvement cosmetic composition, comprising: Ledum palustre cell culture or extract thereof; sea wintergreen cell culture or extract thereof; sea fennel cell culture or extract thereof; apple cell culture or extract thereof; grape cell culture or extract thereof; desert rose cell culture or extract thereof; lavender cell culture or extract thereof; Chinese rattan cell culture or extract thereof; lotus cell culture or extract thereof; myrrh cell culture or extract thereof; and jasmine cell culture or extract thereof as effective ingredients; it further records that the above-mentioned composition is used for whitening skin.

[0006] The applicant Guangdong Babei Biological Technology Co., Ltd. has earlier studied the related application of sea fennel callus culture, which is described in CN107456433B, the subject of a deep moisturizing preparation, that sea fennel callus culture filtrate can increase skin luster and elasticity, reduce the activity of tyrosinase, inhibit the synthesis of melanin, has repair effect, and can accelerate the cell renewal and differentiation of skin.

[0007] A large number of studies have confirmed the role of callus in skin antioxidant, melanin inhibition, whitening, barrier repair, etc.

[0008] Meanwhile, the combination of the above callus and whitening ingredients is gradually applied, such as CN112315845A, a whitening and freckle-removing cream and a preparation method thereof discloses a composition for improving skin color including a skin color improvement agent and a plant extract, the skin color improvement agent is selected from one or more of niacinamide, tranexamic acid, glabridin, schizochytrium limacinum lysate fermentation product, and rice fermentation product filtrate, and the plant extract is selected from one or more of magnolia kobus extract, mulberry root extract, undaria pinnatifida extract, and sea fennel callus culture filtrate.

[0009] In the previous study, we found that reasonable use of callus may further reduce the amount of whitening ingredients. Reducing the amount of whitening ingredients will improve the applicability of sensitive skin.

[0010] Therefore, the technical problem solved by the present application is: how to develop a whitening formula with excellent whitening effect, brightening effect and mildness. SUMMARY

[0011] One of the purposes of the present application is to provide a composition with whitening and brightening effects. By using a combination of whitening components, components containing plant cell cultures or extracts, and carnosine, the whitening effect and brightening effect of the whitening components can be improved, and the applicability of sensitive skin can be improved.

[0012] Meanwhile, the present application also provides applications based on the composition.

[0013] To achieve the above purpose, the present application provides a composition with whitening and brightening effects, including whitening components, components containing plant cell cultures or extracts, and carnosine.

[0014] The component containing plant cell culture or extract includes sea fennel callus culture filtrate and edelweiss flower / leaf extract.

[0015] The weight ratio of the sea fennel callus culture filtrate and the edelweiss flower / leaf extract is 0.01-0.5:0.01-5.

[0016] In the present invention, the individual function of sea fennel callus culture filtrate is: derived from a plant Criste Marine (sea fennel) found in the coast of Brittany, through plant harvesting identification (sea fennel) - sterilization of sea fennel plant parts - isolation of segments of sea fennel (explant) - growth of undifferentiated cells on solid medium (callus) - proliferation in liquid medium - culture of sterile cells in liquid medium in sterile cell bags - separation of cells from the medium - drying - grinding / sieving process. It has the effects of improving epidermal regeneration and repairing epidermal permeability barrier; inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing tyrosine, lightening skin color and regulating pigmentation; increasing the number of basal and suprabasal cell layers, renewing skin, restoring skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles, while also having moisturizing effects.

[0017] The individual function of edelweiss flower / leaf extract is: derived from a unique edelweiss variety - edelweiss, containing high levels of edelweiss acid and flavonoids, with the effects of anti-glycation, strong antioxidant activity, protection of skin barrier, and maintenance of skin microbial balance.

[0018] The individual function of carnosine is: carnosine is a small molecule peptide that has a significant effect on anti-aging, antioxidant, and inhibition of lipid oxidation caused by free radicals and metal ions; prevents glycosylation and inhibits lipid oxidation caused by free radicals and metal ions. By intervening in this action, it protects organs from potential damage. Carnosine can also act as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent to protect the skin from damage.

[0019] Traditional whitening components are mostly small molecule substances, such as niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and 4-butyl resorcinol. These substances undoubtedly have good whitening mechanisms, but their action channels are often single, and they mostly improve whitening effects by inhibiting melanin production, melanin deposition, and transfer.

[0020] However, it is well known that the whitening pathway of the skin is not only related to the production, transfer, and deposition of melanin, but also related to many other pathways, such as the skin's ability to resist free radicals, the ability to resist glycation, the ability to repair the barrier, and the ability to resist inflammation and inflammation-induced pigmentation.

[0021] The synergistic mechanism of improving whitening efficacy after the combination use of sea fennel callus culture filtrate, flower / leaf extract of edelweiss, and the whitening component, and the unique innovation point of the present application is that the sea fennel callus culture filtrate and the flower / leaf extract of edelweiss are selected as active ingredients for promoting cell proliferation, antioxidation, inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, reducing tyrosine, and repairing the barrier, the flower / leaf extract of edelweiss and the carnosine are used as active ingredients for resisting glycosylation, antioxidation, and anti-inflammatory, and the traditional small-molecule whitening component is combined to work together, the former is combined with the whitening component from the bottom logic of skin whitening and repair, and the latter is combined with the whitening component from the surface logic of skin resistance to external influences and self-antioxidation and anti-glycosylation, the combination of the inside and the outside effectively improves the whitening effect.

[0022] In the above composition, the weight ratio of the sea fennel callus culture filtrate and the flower / leaf extract of edelweiss is 0.1-0.4:1-4.

[0023] In the above composition, the whitening component is one or a combination of nicotinamide, ascorbic acid, and 4-butylresorcinol.

[0024] In the above composition, the whitening component is nicotinamide, ascorbic acid, and 4-butylresorcinol; the weight ratio of nicotinamide, ascorbic acid, and 4-butylresorcinol is 0.1-3:0.02-2:0.01-2.

[0025] In the above composition, the weight ratio of the whitening component, the component containing plant cell culture or extract, and the carnosine is 0.1-7:0.02-5.5:0.01-1.

[0026] In the above composition, the weight ratio of the whitening component, the component containing plant cell culture or extract, and the carnosine is 0.2-5:1-5:0.1-1.

[0027] Meanwhile, the present application also discloses the use of the above composition for preparing cosmetics.

[0028] Finally, the present application also discloses a cosmetic containing the above composition.

[0029] In the above cosmetic, the amount of the composition in the cosmetic is 0.05-15 wt%.

[0030] Beneficial effects

[0031] Compared with the prior art, the present application at least has the following advantages:

[0032] By using the whitening component, the component containing the plant cell culture or extract, and the carnosine in combination, the whitening effect and lightening effect of the whitening component can be improved, and the applicability for sensitive skin can be improved. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] The present application is further described below in conjunction with the examples, but does not constitute any limitation to the present application, and any limited modification made within the scope of the claims of the present application is still within the scope of the claims of the present application.

[0034] In order to describe the technical content of the present application in detail, the following further describes the present application in conjunction with the examples.

[0035] Reagent source

[0036] Sea fennel callus culture filtrate: SEPPIC S.A., purity 100wt%;

[0037] Edelweiss flower / leaf extract: DSM Vitamin (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., effective ingredient content 7.5wt%;

[0038] Carnosine: Guangzhou Tinglan Biotechnology Co., Ltd., purity more than 99wt%;

[0039] Nicotinamide: Guangzhou Ruizhiyou Co., Ltd., purity more than 99wt%, nicotinic acid content less than 70ppm;

[0040] Histidine: Shanghai Pu'En Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., purity more than 99wt%;

[0041] 4-Butylresorcinol: KUMAR ORGANIC PRODUCTS (SINGAPORE) PTE LTD, purity more than 99wt%.

[0042] The preparation method of the composition with whitening and lightening effects of the present application is as follows:

[0043] Mix the sea fennel callus culture filtrate, the edelweiss flower / leaf extract, the carnosine, the nicotinamide, the histidine, the 4-butylresorcinol, and water uniformly to prepare the whitening composition with whitening and lightening effects.

[0044] The formula can refer to Table 1;

[0045] Table 1 Formula Table Unit: g

[0046]

[0047] Performance test

[0048] Test item: free radical (DPPH) scavenging experiment.

[0049] Detection method: Shanghai daily chemical industry association group standard implementation, standard number: T / SHRH 006-2018; Cosmetics-free radical (DPPH) scavenging test method.

[0050] The smaller the absorbance, the better the free radical (DPPH) scavenging effect.

[0051] The detection results are shown in Table 2 below;

[0052] Table 2 Free radical scavenging experiment results

[0053]

[0054]

[0055] Result analysis:

[0056] 1. As can be seen from Examples 1 to 3, with the increase of whitening components, components containing plant cell cultures or extracts, and carnosine, the free radical scavenging ability is significantly increased.

[0057] 2. When the amount of whitening components, components containing plant cell cultures or extracts, and carnosine is adjusted within a reasonable range, the free radical scavenging ability is also relatively significant; as can be seen from the results of Examples 3 to 6, the increase of the total amount of each component and the increase of the free radical scavenging ability have a positive correlation.

[0058] 3. As can be seen from the results of Examples 7 to 9 and Example 1, under the condition that the total amount of whitening components is consistent, the absence of any whitening component will reduce the free radical scavenging ability;

[0059] From the functions of each component of the whitening component, nicotinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that not only has the effect of anti-blackening and whitening, but also has the effect of anti-inflammatory, which can reduce skin inflammation and sensitive problems; as a classic whitening component, trans-aminic acid is also a typical free radical scavenger, which can neutralize oxidizing substances in the body and protect cells from damage; 4-butyl resorcinol is a classic antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing, whitening active ingredient, and its free radical scavenging ability is also very significant.

[0060] The above three improve and improve the free radical scavenging ability of the composition from different angles. As can be seen from the results of Examples 7 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, the importance of the functions of each component in the whitening component and the importance of the components containing plant cell cultures or extracts and carnosine are equivalent.

[0061] It can be considered that, in the components of the present application, the preference for the whitening component can significantly improve the free radical scavenging ability of the formula.

[0062] 4. In order to further explore whether the components containing plant cell cultures or extracts and carnosine have a universal synergistic effect on the whitening component, based on Examples 7 to 9, further deletion of components containing plant cell cultures or extracts and carnosine was carried out in Comparative Examples 5 to 7. It can be found through experiments that in any deletion of components containing plant cell cultures or extracts and carnosine, the overall free radical scavenging ability is further reduced, but the improvement effect is similar to that of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 and Example 1. Therefore, in combination with the above third point, it can be seen that the presence of components containing plant cell cultures or extracts and carnosine has a clear effect on the improvement of the efficacy of the whitening component.

[0063] 5. It can be seen from the comparison results of Example 3 and Comparative Examples 8 to 11 that they are consistent with the comparison results of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and Example 1. The results of Example 3 and Comparative Examples 8 to 11 have large differences, and the possible reason is that the amount of each component is large, and in the case of deletion, it will show more obvious performance fluctuations.

[0064] Test item: Whitening evaluation

[0065] Effect verification test example (Example 1, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2 sample whitening evaluation)

[0066] Testers: 30 healthy women (20-42 years old), divided into 3 groups, and the average skin color evaluation of each group after grouping should be similar; each group has 10 people; each group uses the same formula product.

[0067] Test area: face (whole face use);

[0068] Usage: twice a day in the morning and evening, for 4 weeks of continuous use.

[0069] Test instrument: French C-Cube multifunctional skin imaging system.

[0070] Effect index: ITA degree, melanin. ITA degree represents the overall change of color, and the larger the ITA value, the lighter the skin color.

[0071] The grading method can be seen in Table 3;

[0072] Table 3 ITA degree grading table

[0073]

[0074]

[0075] The average value of each group before the start of the experiment; The average value of each group after one month of product testing; the average melanin value (before) is before the start of the test, and the average melanin value (after) is the average value of each group after one month of product testing.

[0076] The changes in ITA° values ​​and average melanin levels are shown in Tables 4 and 5.

[0077] Table 4. Test results of ITA° values

[0078]

[0079] Table 5. Test results of average melanin levels

[0080] Sample group Melanin (after) Melanin (before) Example 1 24.84 32.15 Comparative Example 1 28.92 32.08 Comparative Example 2 30.13 32.21

[0081] The results of the above-mentioned human trial experiments show that the whitening composition of the present invention has a very good synergistic whitening effect, which is significantly better than the composition lacking one or two raw material components.

[0082] Testing items: Security testing

[0083] 1. Number of participants: 30 in total, 6 males and 24 females; minimum age: 20 years old, maximum age: 46 years old; average age: 31.18 ± 4.82 years old. Volunteer selection criteria.

[0084] 2. Test Method: Patch test was performed as in Example 2. A qualified patch tester was selected, and a closed patch test method was used. Approximately 0.020–0.025 mL of the test substance was placed in the patch tester, and medical tape was applied to the back of the subject. The test substance was removed after 24 hours, and skin reactions were observed at 0.5, 24, and 48 hours after patch removal. The results were recorded according to the skin reaction grading standards in the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition).

[0085] 3. The evaluation criteria are shown in Table 6 below:

[0086] Table 6. Grading Standards for Adverse Skin Reactions

[0087]

[0088] The results showed that, in the human skin closed patch test, among 30 people... 0 Example appears Positive According to the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition), the test substance had no adverse reaction with this batch of subjects. No It can cause adverse skin reactions.

[0089] Testing items: Stability test

[0090] 1. Stability test sample: product of Example 2.

[0091] 2. Test method: standard (lighting for 1 month, high and low temperature test for 3 months), higher than national standard, industry standard.

[0092] 3. Test results are shown in Table 7 below

[0093] Table 7 Stability test results

[0094]

[0095]

[0096] The results show that the whitening composition has good stability.

[0097] Application formula

[0098] The present application provides a composition with whitening and lightening effects, which is made into a whitening essence, and the content of the raw material components in the composition is shown in Table 8 below.

[0099] Table 8 Whitening essence (unit: mass%)

[0100] No. Ingredient Whitening serum 1 Whitening serum 2 1 Deionized water 91.34 77.5 2 Glycerin 2 2 3 EDTA-2NA 0.05 0.05 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.05 0.05 5 Glycerin poly ether-26 1.5 1.5 6 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 7 Carbomer 0.3 0.3 8 Arginine 0.3 0.3 9 4-Butylresorcinol 0.01 1.5 10 Butylene glycol 3 3 11 p-Hydroxyacetophenone 0.4 0.4 12 1,2-Hexanediol 0.4 0.4 13 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 14 Nicotinamide 0.1 3 15 Carnosine 0.01 1 16 Caffeic acid 0.02 2 17 Sea fennel callus culture filtrate 0.01 0.5 18 Edelweiss flower / leaf extract 0.01 5

[0101] The preparation process of the above whitening essence can be described as follows:

[0102] 1. Add deionized water to the water phase pot, open the stirring to evenly spread the carbomer on the water surface, stir until completely dispersed and uniform, then pump into the emulsification pot, add glycerol, EDTA-2NA, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium hyaluronate, heat to 80-85℃, high-speed homogenization for 5min, start to cool to 65-70℃.

[0103] 2. Cool to 65-70℃, add arginine, stir evenly, then cool.

[0104] 3. Dissolve 4-butylresorcinol, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol evenly in a suitable container with slight heating.

[0105] 4. Cool to 40-45℃, add the dissolved 4-butylresorcinol, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol, and the remaining nicotinamide, myo-inositol, ascorbic acid, sea fennel callus culture filtrate, high mountain fire fireweed flower / leaf extract, stir and homogenize until the material is uniform, and then discharge after detection.

Claims

1. A composition having a whitening and brightening effect, characterized in that, Includes whitening ingredients, components containing plant cell cultures or extracts, and carnosine; The components containing plant cell cultures or extracts include sea fennel callus culture filtrate and edelweiss flower / leaf extract. The weight ratio of the sea fennel callus culture filtrate to the edelweiss flower / leaf extract is 0.01–0.5: 0.01–5. The whitening ingredients are niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and 4-butylresorcinol; the weight ratio of niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and 4-butylresorcinol is 0.1-3:0.02-2:0.01-2.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight ratio of the sea fennel callus culture filtrate to the edelweiss flower / leaf extract is 0.1–0.4:1–4.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weight ratio of the whitening component, the component containing plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine is 0.1–7:0.02–5.5:0.01–1.

4. The composition according to claim 3, characterized in that, The whitening component, the component containing plant cell culture or extract, and the carnosine have a weight ratio of 0.2–5:1–5:0.1–1.

5. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in the preparation of cosmetics.

6. A cosmetic product, characterized in that, Contains the composition as described in any one of claims 1 to 4.

7. The cosmetic product according to claim 6, characterized in that, The amount of the composition used in the cosmetic is 0.05 to 15 wt%.

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