Novel transparent cosmetic composition for skin and hair hygiene and care

Abstract

The present invention relates to a transparent cosmetic composition containing a mixture of surfactants comprising: a single anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alanine salts, acylglutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof; a nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside, either alone or in combination with at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucoside wherein the alkyl group comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine; at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Such compositions are free of amphoteric surfactants from the class of amidopropyl betaine and surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group. The composition is particularly suitable for skin and hair hygiene and care.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a novel transparent cosmetic composition and the use of such a composition for washing and / or caring for skin and / or hair. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for hygienizing and / or caring for skin and / or hair using such a composition. Background Art

[0002] Cosmetic compositions intended for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair must be effective, in other words, achieve a cleansing, foaming and conditioning effect. More specifically, it is a major consumer desire to have a product that produces a lot of foam and has a conditioning effect on the hair. Moreover, such compositions must contain as little or no controversial substances as possible, since consumers are increasingly wary of the composition of their cosmetics. They are therefore looking for products that do not contain chemicals, preferring ingredients of natural origin, which are known to have better skin tolerance and affinity with the skin, and are more environmentally friendly.

[0003] It is also preferred that such cosmetic compositions be transparent, as this conveys a sense of safety and security to many consumers.

[0004] Furthermore, such cosmetic compositions can be deployed in a number of packages. These packages can be tubes or pump dispensers, which bring limitations in terms of product release. This peculiarity generally leads the inventors to assign certain viscosity values ​​to the composition. Too thick a formulation cannot be pumped, and a too fluid formulation will flow from the consumer's hands, which does not correspond to the organoleptic qualities of a hygiene product.

[0005] Many cosmetic compositions for body and hair applications proposed in the prior art contain sulfated surfactants. These surfactants ensure a particularly interesting foaming effect and give the impression of gentle cleansing. However, in fact, they are very irritating to the skin and can cause drying and irritation of the skin.

[0006] Similarly, the presence of some amphoteric surfactants, such as amidopropyl betaines, and in particular cocamidopropyl betaine, may cause certain intolerances, such as skin irritation. Two impurities found in these amidopropyl betaines have been shown to be responsible for this negative opinion. These impurities are 3,3-dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA) and amidoamines, which are well known to have irritating and sensitizing properties (Fowler et al. Contact Dermatitis 37, 276-281, 1997; Angelini et al. Contact Dermatitis 34, 248-252, 1996).

[0007] Therefore, in order to achieve good skin tolerance, these ingredients must be used in low concentrations, but there is still a risk when targeting consumers with particularly pronounced skin sensitivity.

[0008] The present invention aims to overcome the disadvantages of cosmetic compositions proposed in the prior art, in particular the above-mentioned disadvantages, by proposing a transparent cosmetic composition which contains as little or no ingredients of non-natural origin as possible, has a physiological pH, is kind to the epidermis and therefore has as little risk of skin intolerance as possible, while having a foaming ability that is at least as good as or even better than that of the cosmetic compositions of the prior art.

[0009] It is a further object of the present invention that such a composition contains as few ingredients as possible and is suitable for use on all skin types, including sensitive and atopic skin.

[0010] It is another object of the present invention that such a transparent composition has sufficient viscosity so that it does not flow from the user's hands when it is handled and so that it can be dispensed through various types of packaging, especially tubes and pump dispensers. Summary of the invention

[0011] The present inventors have found that this object can be achieved by using a specific combination of surfactants. Surprisingly, this combination has a particularly high foaming power, good viscosity and can form a transparent cosmetic composition with a reduced risk of skin irritation compared to the cosmetic compositions of the prior art.

[0012] "Good viscosity" of a composition is intended to mean a viscosity that enables the composition to be dispensed through various packaging, particularly tubes and pump dispensers, and that does not run from the consumer's hands when dispensed.

[0013] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent cosmetic composition which is particularly suitable for topical application (especially on the skin and hair). This transparent composition contains: - A mixture of surfactants comprising: o at least one anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acylglutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, o the nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside, used alone or together with at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides wherein the alkyl group contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, o at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine, and - at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0014] Furthermore, this transparent cosmetic composition preferably comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition and is free of amphoteric surfactants from the class of amidopropyl betaines and surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group.

[0015] In this specification, the term "cosmetically acceptable" is intended to mean that the salt or excipient is suitable for use by contact with human and animal cells, in particular skin or hair cells. Preferably, the excipient has a pleasant smell, color and feel, and does not produce unacceptable discomfort that may prevent the user from using the composition according to the invention.

[0016] In this specification, a transparent composition is defined in a conventional manner as a composition having a turbidity of less than 20 NTU. Turbidity was measured using a HACH TL2310 turbidimeter. Before each turbidity measurement, the correct adjustment of the instrument was checked by measuring the turbidity of two standards from the StabCal 0 to 4000 NTU standard calibration kit, which were selected so that they corresponded to the expected values ​​of the samples.

[0017] In this specification, the term "at least one" means a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds. Thus, the mixture of surfactants of the composition according to the invention contains: - a single anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acylglutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants; - a single nonionic surfactant being lauryl glucoside or a plurality of nonionic surfactants comprising lauryl glucoside and one or more nonionic surfactants selected from alkyl glucosides wherein the alkyl group contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; - a single amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine, or a plurality of such amphoteric surfactants different from amidopropyl betaine.

[0018] This particular surfactant mixture advantageously ensures a high foaming capacity of the transparent cosmetic composition, as well as a good quality of the foam formed. Without assuming the phenomenon behind this performance of the surfactant mixture according to the present invention, it can be considered that this is due to the synergistic effect of the specific groups carried by these surfactants. This performance is advantageously obtained in the absence of any amidopropyl betaine type amphoteric surfactants (which have the disadvantage of risk of skin irritation) conventionally used in cosmetic compositions for the hygiene or care of skin and hair. Therefore, the transparent composition obtained does not show the risk of skin irritation, or the risk is greatly reduced compared to the compositions of the prior art. In addition, the surfactant mixture imparts a good viscosity to the transparent cosmetic composition, and in particular a viscosity that does not contain a thickener, and even when the composition contains one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, such as emollients, conditioners, solubilizers and fragrances.

[0019] In the present invention, the term "amidopropyl betaine" is intended to mean the following compounds: behenamidopropyl betaine, capryloyl / capramidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, isostearamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, myristamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, undecylenamidopropyl betaine, and amidopropyl betaines derived from almond, apricot, avocado, babassu, rapeseed, coconut oil, sunflower oil, oat, olive, palm oil, castor oil, soybean, shea butter and wheat germ.

[0020] Furthermore, the transparent cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not in the form of an emulsion or a two-phase composition comprising an aqueous phase and a fat phase, but is in the form of a single-phase fluid composition.

[0021] In a specific embodiment, the invention also responds to the following features, which are implemented individually or in each of their technically operable combinations.

[0022] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention does not contain any additional ingredient chosen from fatty substances. According to another specific embodiment, the transparent composition comprises a total amount of one or more additional ingredients chosen from fatty substances of less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a specific embodiment of the invention, the transparent cosmetic composition contains a total content of one or more additional ingredients chosen from fatty substances between 0.001% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.001% and 1% by weight, more particularly between 0.001% and 0.5% by weight, and in particular between 0.001% and 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of one or more additional ingredients chosen from the above-mentioned fatty substances enables them to keep the transparent cosmetic composition of the invention in a form that is not in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase.

[0023] Within the meaning of the present invention, "fatty substances" are understood to mean organic compounds which are insoluble in water at 25° C. and 1 atmosphere, in other words, organic compounds which have a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight. Fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents, for example in chloroform, ethanol, benzene or vaseline, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure.

[0024] The expression "fatty substance" includes in particular fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty acids, fatty amides, mineral oils or waxes (or hydrocarbons), animal oils or waxes or plant oils or waxes and the like.

[0025] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the transparent cosmetic composition does not contain any emulsifier. In particular, it does not contain an emulsifier such as a fatty acid monoester of polyethylene glycol.

[0026] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition as the object of the present invention has a turbidity of less than 20 NTU within at least 12 months after its preparation. Preferably, the transparent composition has a turbidity of less than 20 NTU within at least 24 months after its preparation, and more preferably, the transparent composition has a turbidity of less than 20 NTU within at least 36 months after its preparation.

[0027] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the one or more anionic surfactants selected from alanine salts are preferably selected from sodium cocoyl alaninate or trisodium dicarboxymethyl alanine.

[0028] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, one or more anionic surfactants selected from acylglutamic acid and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof are preferably selected from acylglutamic acid, wherein the acyl group comprises a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Acyl group can be particularly selected from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearyl, olive oil acyl, coconut oil acyl and oleoyl. The cosmetically acceptable salt of acylglutamic acid can be selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts and ammonium salts. For example, it is selected from sodium salt, potassium salt, lithium salt or magnesium salt, and sodium salt and potassium salt are particularly preferred in the context of the present invention.

[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, one or more anionic surfactants chosen from acylglutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof may, for example, be chosen from the group consisting of compounds with the INCI names Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Potassium Lauroyl Glutamate, Potassium Cocoyl Glutamate and Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Several anionic surfactants chosen from acylglutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof may be used in the composition according to the invention, which composition may, for example, contain any mixture of two or more of the above-mentioned compounds.

[0030] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant chosen from alaninates. More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant, sodium cocoyl alaninate.

[0031] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition preferably comprises a single nonionic surfactant, lauryl glucoside.

[0032] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition comprises at least one second nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides wherein the alkyl group comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. The alkyl glucosides are preferably chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: Octyl Glucoside and Decyl Glucoside.

[0033] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the one or more amphoteric surfactants different from amidopropyl betaine are selected from sodium capryloamphoacetate, sodium capryloamphopropionate, sodium capryloamphoacetate, sodium capryloamphopropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium isostearylamphoacetate, sodium isostearylamphopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium oleoamphoacetate, sodium oleoamphopropionate, sodium stearoylamphoacetate, sodium stearoylamphopropionate, tallowamphoacetate, sodium Sodium Acetate, Sodium Wheatgerm Amphoacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Isostearylamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Oleoamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Isostearylamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Stearoylamphodiacetate, Disodium Tallowamphodiacetate, and Disodium Wheatgerm Amphodiacetate.

[0034] Preferably, the at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine is chosen from lauryl betaine, coco betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or mixtures thereof.

[0035] Preferably, the at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine is chosen from lauryl betaine, coco betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate, or a mixture thereof.

[0036] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least 70% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent cosmetic composition does not contain ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

[0038] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition according to the invention does not contain any surfactant of the type containing isethionic acid or isethionate groups, in particular surfactants chosen from acyl isethionic acids or salts thereof, such as the substance with the INCI name Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate. This advantageously reduces, without modifying the properties of the transparent composition, the presence in said composition of compounds with the disadvantage of non-natural origin conventionally used in cosmetic compositions for the hygiene or care of the skin and hair.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition does not contain any surfactant of the type containing sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinate groups, in particular surfactants chosen from alkyl sulfosuccinic acids or salts thereof, such as the substance with the INCI name lauryl sulfosuccinate. This also advantageously reduces, without modifying the properties of the transparent composition, the presence in said composition of compounds with the disadvantage of non-natural origin that are conventionally used in cosmetic compositions for the hygiene or care of the skin and hair.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition does not contain surfactants containing at least one sulfate group (in other words, -O-SO3H or -O-SO2-O-group), such as laureth sulfate or lauryl sulfate. This advantageously reduces the presence in the composition of compounds with the disadvantage of non-natural origin that are conventionally used in cosmetic compositions for the hygiene or care of skin and hair, without changing the properties of the transparent composition. In addition, although sulfated surfactants have a particularly interesting foaming ability, they are aggressive to the epidermis. Therefore, their absence in the transparent composition that is the object of the present invention advantageously reduces the risk of erosion of the epidermis of the user.

[0041] More generally, the transparent composition according to the invention preferably contains as few surfactants as possible. Thus, in a specific embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition comprises no more than 6 surfactants, preferably no more than 5 surfactants, more preferably no more than 4 surfactants and preferably 3 surfactants. As mentioned above, the use of a surfactant mixture comprising a single compound from each of the three defined surfactant families (an anionic surfactant selected from alaninates and / or acylglutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, the nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside and an amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine) allows high foaming power and other advantages to be obtained, which advantageously allows minimizing the number of ingredients present in the composition and thus reducing the production costs of the composition.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the content of the mixture of surfactants is between 5% and 18% by weight, preferably between 6% and 16% by weight, more preferably between 8% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the transparent composition. Such a range of values ​​makes it possible to obtain good foaming power of the composition, good quality of the foam formed and good viscosity of the composition, while reducing the production cost of the composition.

[0043] The total content of said at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alaninates or acylglutamics and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof is preferably between 1.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 2 and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] The total content of lauryl glucoside as the only nonionic surfactant of the composition is preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, preferably between 5 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In a specific embodiment, the total content of nonionic surfactants consisting of lauryl glucoside and at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl group contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, preferably between 5 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The total content of said at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine is preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, more preferably between 1.5% and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the transparent cosmetic composition contains: - A mixture of surfactants comprising: o a single anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acylglutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, o the nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside, used alone or together with at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides wherein the alkyl group contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, o 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine, and - at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, The composition comprises at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, the content of the mixture of surfactants is between 5 and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition is free of amphoteric surfactants from the class of amidopropyl betaines and of surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group.

[0048] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition has a viscosity greater than 800 cPs, preferably a viscosity between 800 and 5500 cPs.

[0049] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition is free of thickeners in order to minimize the number of ingredients in these formulations. As previously explained, the mixture of surfactants used in the transparent composition advantageously imparts a good viscosity to the composition, and in particular a viscosity that renders the composition free of thickeners, and even when the composition contains one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, such as emollients, conditioners, solubilizers and fragrances. The number of ingredients of the composition is thus reduced and therefore also the associated production costs are reduced.

[0050] In other embodiments of the invention, however, the composition comprises at least one thickener.

[0051] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "thickener" preferably means alginates, carrageenans, celluloses, starches, gums selected from the group consisting of diutan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglycan gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, and caesalpinia spinosa gum.

[0052] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient is selected from the group consisting of emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers, fragrances, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0053] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition contains one or more emollients, in particular chosen from glycerol, diglycerol or sorbitol.

[0054] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition contains one or more conditioning agents, in particular selected from guar gum, polyquaternium salts, polyglyceryl compounds, polysaccharides, squalane, etc. Preferably, the conditioning agent is guar gum. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the total content of the one or more conditioning agents is between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the transparent composition.

[0055] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition according to the invention contains one or more solubilizers, in particular chosen from the family of polyglyceryl compounds, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl oleate, coco-glucoside.

[0056] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the transparent composition contains one or more cosmetic active ingredients, in particular for topical application, selected, for example, from hydrating agents, antioxidants, vitamins, and the like.

[0057] The total content of cosmetic active ingredients in the transparent composition according to the invention is between 0.05% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the transparent composition comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid, oat extract, immortelle extract, immortelle essential oil, limnanthe oil, in particular limnanthes alba seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acids (such as Acides de Products sold under the names of products sold by Edelweiss), cinchona extract, caffeine, peony extract, mango butter, and citron extract, such a list not limiting the present invention in any way.

[0059] The transparent composition according to the invention in its desired form can be prepared by any conventional method for preparing cosmetic compositions per se. In the context of the present invention, a particularly preferred preparation method is to introduce each surfactant in the water of the formulation continuously into a mixer at a low speed, then optionally add other excipients and / or active ingredients, and finally stir / homogenize the formulation. If necessary, the pH of the formulation thus obtained can also be adjusted. In embodiments in which the clear cosmetic composition comprises at least one conditioning agent, the conditioning agent is pre-introduced into the water of the formulation, preferably under vigorous stirring.

[0060] The transparent composition object of the present invention can be used on all keratin materials (such as the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes), in particular in the form of hygiene products, for example in the form of products for cleansing the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, in particular in the form of products for cleansing and / or removing make-up from the skin (especially face and / or body), in the form of shower products, in the form of shampoos.

[0061] Another aspect of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention for washing and / or caring for the skin, in particular the skin of the body and / or face and / or the scalp, and / or the hair of an individual, preferably by topical application.

[0062] Such use preferably comprises the consecutive steps consisting of: - applying the transparent composition to the skin and / or hair, the skin and / or hair being preferably previously wet, - forming foam, in particular by rubbing the skin and / or hair to which the composition has been applied, - and optionally after a rest time and / or an optional massage, preferably rinsing with water.

[0063] These steps can be performed, for example, once or twice daily, such as in the morning and evening, or as often as desired.

[0064] The transparent compositions according to the invention can be used in particular for washing and / or caring for sensitive or atopic skin.

[0065] In this specification, sensitive skin means skin that is irritated or allergic due to various internal and external non-immune factors. The term atopic skin means skin suffering from inflammatory diseases characterized by dry skin associated with itching, such as in the case of eczema or atopic dermatitis.

[0066] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair of an individual by means of a transparent cosmetic composition according to the invention. The method comprises the successive steps consisting of: - applying the transparent composition to the skin and / or hair, the skin and / or hair being preferably previously wet, - forming a foam by rubbing the composition on the skin and / or hair, - and preferably rinse with water.

[0067] The method may correspond to any feature or combination of features described above with respect to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention.

[0068] The characteristics and advantages of the invention will become more apparent in view of the following examples of implementation, which are provided purely by way of illustrative and non-limiting example of the invention. Examples

[0069] 1 / Examples of compositions

[0070] The transparent cosmetic composition intended for cosmetic treatments, for the hygiene and care of the hair according to the invention has the characteristics listed in Table 1 below: [Table 1] Ingredients (INCI name) %wt. / wt. Sodium Cocoyl Alanine 3-4 Lauryl Glucoside 5-7 Coco-betaine 1.5-2.0 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.1-0.5 water Moderate Sodium Benzoate 0.45 Active ingredients 1 spices <0.5 Aloe Vera <0.1 Table 1 - Examples of transparent compositions for the hygiene and care of hair according to the invention

[0071] Another example of a transparent composition according to the invention intended for cosmetic treatments, for hygiene and care of the skin of the face and / or body is given in Table 2 below: [Table 2] Ingredients (INCI name) %wt. / wt. Sodium Cocoyl Alanine 3-4 Lauryl Glucoside 5-7 Coco-betaine 1.5-2.0 water Moderate Sodium Benzoate 0.45 Active ingredients 1 spices <0.5 Table 2 - Examples of transparent compositions according to the invention for hygiene and care of the skin of the face and / or body

[0072] 2 / Evaluation of the characteristics of the composition according to the invention

[0073] The transparent compositions were evaluated according to the following criteria: - Foaming ability (quantity / quality): foam height, foam smoothness, foam softness, - Viscosity, -pH: Measured with a pH meter - stability over time, -Organoleptic characteristics (color, smell)

[0074] To this end, the following operating protocol was implemented.

[0075] To evaluate the foam height, a 250 ml stoppered, graduated measuring tube was used, with an outer diameter of 38.9 cm and a height of 36 cm. 0.5 g of the composition was placed in this tube and demineralized water was added to make up to 50 ml. The tube was stoppered and then shaken vigorously 10 times. The foam height was read and expressed in mm.

[0076] The results obtained with various anionic surfactants are shown in Table 3 below: [Table 3] Table 3 - Evaluation of various criteria of the transparent composition according to the invention according to different selected anionic surfactants

[0077] It can be seen that compositions 1, 2 and 3 have very interesting foam heights and expected viscosities. It is interesting to note that the greatest height is obtained with sodium cocoyl alanine, and furthermore the foam appears particularly smooth and creamy.

[0078] The results obtained with various nonionic surfactants are shown in Table 4 below: [Table 4] Table 4 - Evaluation of various criteria for a transparent composition according to the invention (composition 4) and not for a transparent composition according to the invention (compositions 5 and 6) according to the different nonionic surfactants selected

[0079] Thus, it can be seen that in the case of using a single nonionic surfactant to produce a transparent composition according to the invention, only lauryl glucoside makes it possible to obtain a composition according to the invention (composition 4), in other words, a composition having a certain viscosity, in particular a viscosity greater than 800 cPs. In fact, in the case of the presence of coco-glucoside or decyl glucoside as the only nonionic surfactant, these compositions prove to be too liquid (compositions 5 and 6). Therefore, the foam height cannot be measured.

[0080] The results obtained with various amphoteric surfactants are shown in Table 5 below: [Table 5] Table 5 - Evaluation of various criteria of the transparent composition according to the invention according to different selected amphoteric surfactants

[0081] It can be seen that all compositions 4, 7, 8 and 9 have similar foam heights. The amphoteric surfactant does not appear to affect the foaming ability.

[0082] 3 / Comparative tests with compositions from the prior art

[0083] The company BASF under the name Foam height and viscosity of a composition comprising sodium cocoamphoacetate, glycerin, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate sold by SF.

[0084] The composition was tested under the same total surfactant concentration conditions as the transparent cosmetic composition which is the object of the present invention. SF.

[0085] For this purpose, the same operating scheme as in point 2 / above is implemented.

[0086] In other words, to evaluate the foam height, a 250 ml stoppered graduated measuring tube was used, the outer diameter of which was 38.9 cm and the height was 36 cm. 0.5 g of the composition SF was placed in this test tube and demineralized water was added to make up to 50 ml. The viscosity of the composition was measured to be 1158 cPs. The test tube was stoppered and then vigorously shaken 10 times. The foam height was read and expressed in mm. The obtained foam height was 180 mL.

[0087] In summary, the transparent cosmetic composition as the object of the present invention comprises only a single anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acyl glutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, and its foaming ability is comparable to that of a composition comprising two anionic surfactants (sodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate). Thus, the transparent cosmetic composition of the present invention is as effective as PLANTAPON SF, if not more effective, and most importantly, is more economical because the effectiveness is achieved with fewer ingredients.

[0088] More generally, it should be noted that the implementations and embodiments of the invention considered above have been described as non-limiting examples and that other variants are therefore possible.

Claims

1. A transparent cosmetic composition, characterized in that The transparent cosmetic composition comprises: - A mixture of surfactants comprising: o a single anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, acylglutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, o the nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside, used alone or together with at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides wherein the alkyl group contains from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, o 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one amphoteric surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine, and - at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, The composition comprises at least 65% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, the content of the mixture of surfactants is between 5 and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition is free of amphoteric surfactants from the class of amidopropyl betaines and of surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group.

2. The transparent cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The total content of anionic surfactants chosen from alaninates or acylglutamics and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof is between 1.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein The content of lauryl glucoside as the only nonionic surfactant of the composition is between 3 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein The anionic surfactant selected from alanine salts is preferably selected from sodium cocoyl alaninate or trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate.

5. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein The at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acylglutamics and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof is preferably chosen from acylglutamics, wherein the acyl group comprises a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

6. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein The at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, lauryl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein The at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient is selected from the group consisting of emollients, conditioning agents, solubilizers, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

8. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein The composition contains no thickener.

9. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising at least one conditioning agent selected from guar gum, polyquaternium salts, polyglyceryl compounds, polysaccharides and squalane.

10. The transparent cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein: The total content of conditioning agent(s) is between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from the group consisting of vitamins, hyaluronic acid, oatmeal liquid, immortelle extract, immortelle essential oil, meadowfoam seed oil, in particular meadowfoam seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acid, garcinia extract, milk thistle seed oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extract, cinchona extract, caffeine, peony extract, mango butter and citron extract.

12. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, packaged in the form of a shower gel, shampoo, facial and / or body foaming gel.

13. The transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, having a viscosity greater than 800 cPs, preferably between 800 cPs and 5500 cPs.

14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for washing and / or caring for skin and / or hair.

15. The non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 14 for the washing and / or care of sensitive skin.

16. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair with the aid of a transparent cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, said method comprising the successive steps consisting of: - applying the transparent composition to the skin and / or hair, which is preferably previously wetted, - forming foam by rubbing said composition on said skin and / or hair, - and rinse.

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