Solid anhydrous compositions comprising ethylcellulose, alkyl benzoate and silicone oil and methods of use thereof

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid composition for making up human keratin substances, in particular the skin and lips, comprising: ethyl cellulose; at least one first oil selected from esters of benzoic acid and a C8-C20 monohydric alcohol; at least one second oil which is a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from the group consisting of C10-C26 alcohols and optionally esters other than the first oil; at least one third oil selected from the group consisting of non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one polydimethylsiloxane fragment; optionally at least a fourth oil which is a non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil or a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil without polydimethylsiloxane fragments, the oil content being such that the weight ratio of the first oil, the second oil and, if appropriate, the fourth oil / third oil is less than or equal to 1. The invention also relates to a method for making up the skin or lips, in which the above mentioned composition is applied.

Description

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a solid composition for making up keratinous substances, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising ethylcellulose, at least one benzoate oil, at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one phenylated silicone oil containing dimethicone segments in specific amounts. Another subject of the present invention is a method for making up and / or caring for the lips, in particular, comprising using such a composition.

[0002] The invention relates more particularly to a composition for making up the skin and / or lips in which it is desired to obtain a lustrous surface.

[0003] Liquid or solid anhydrous compositions especially designed for making up human keratinous substances such as the skin and lips to produce lustrous effects are obtained from mixtures comprising relatively high contents of oils, in particular non-volatile oils, and also colorants such as, for example, pearlescent agents and / or pigments.

[0004] In the case of fluid compositions, they must exhibit sufficient viscosity to ensure the stability of the composition over time, in particular to keep the colorant in suspension and to prevent the composition from flowing out of the area to be treated or made up during application. The viscosity of the composition must also limit the migration of the composition into the wrinkles and fine lines of the lip contour after application. However, this viscosity must be maintained so that the composition can be satisfactorily applied with good gliding in order to obtain a sufficiently thin and uniform deposit.

[0005] In the case of solid compositions, structurants (such as waxes, for example) are often added to the mixtures mentioned above. These compounds must harden the compositions sufficiently so that they can be molded in stick form without impairing their use properties. This is because these compositions must be able to be deconstructed so that the appropriate amount can be applied to the lips at any time. Anhydrous cosmetic compositions comprising a first oil (such as octyldodecanol) and at least one non-volatile silicone oil incompatible with the first oil and ethylcellulose are known, for example, in document WO 2017 / 108584.

[0006] These compositions make it possible to obtain a glossy deposit that remains over time. However, it would be preferred to further improve the transfer resistance of the deposit obtained, without, however, deteriorating the gloss or comfort properties of the resulting deposit, or increasing the tackiness, or introducing a feeling of tightness or dryness on the lips after application of the composition.

[0007] These and other problems are solved by the present invention, which therefore provides a solid cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for human keratin substances, in particular the lips, comprising:

[0008] * at least ethylcellulose,

[0009] *At least one first oil selected from benzoic acid and C 8 -C 20 , preferably C 8 -C 18 Monoesters of preferably saturated monohydric alcohols and also mixtures thereof,

[0010] * At least one second oil, the at least one second oil is selected from C 10 -C 26 a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of an alcohol and optionally an ester other than the first oil,

[0011] * at least one third oil chosen from non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment,

[0012] *optionally at least one fourth oil, the at least one fourth oil being a non-phenylated silicone oil or a phenylated silicone oil without a dimethicone segment,

[0013] * The content of oil is such that the weight ratio of the first oil, the second oil and, where appropriate, the fourth oil / the third oil is less than or equal to 1.

[0014] Another subject of the invention is a method for making up human keratin substances, in particular the skin or the lips, in which the composition mentioned above is applied.

[0015] The composition according to the invention exhibits the advantages of being stable over time and easy to apply, as well as improved glide. Furthermore, the deposit obtained is precise and uniform, does not adhere and does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, in particular around the lips or eyes (crow's feet).

[0016] Furthermore, despite the high non-volatile oil content, the resulting deposit is fine. The deposit makes it possible to obtain a glossy make-up effect with improved wear properties. It is also comfortable, without a feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0017] Finally, the transfer resistance of the deposits obtained by applying the composition according to the invention is improved.

[0018] In the following text, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

[0019] Unless otherwise stated, the expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” should be understood as meaning that the limit values ​​are included.

[0020] The temperature mentioned in this specification is at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) shown below.

[0021] Since the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, this means in particular that it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium particularly suitable for applying the composition according to the invention to human keratinous substances, most particularly the skin and the lips.

[0022] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied and also to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0023] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" is understood to mean in particular that water is not intentionally added to the composition, but may be present in traces in the various compounds used.

[0024] The composition according to the invention is in solid form. The term "solid" is understood to mean in particular a composition that does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a stick. More particularly, the term "stick" is understood to mean a pharmaceutical form whose hardness can be measured according to the following "cheesewire" method:

[0025] Protocol for measuring hardness:

[0026] The compositions in stick form were stored at 20° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0027] The measurement is carried out at 20° C. and consists in transversely cutting the product rod, preferably a cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm, by moving the wire relative to the rod at a speed of 100 mm / min.

[0028] The tensile strength of the samples of the composition according to the invention in Nm was measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing device sold by Indelco-Chatillon. -1 Indicates the hardness.

[0029] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values ​​read using the tensile tester mentioned above is given in grams (denoted as Y). This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L (which represents the longest distance the wire passes through). In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

[0030] The hardness is converted to Nm by the following formula -1 :(Y×10 -3 ×9.8) / L

[0031] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention, when it is in solid form, advantageously exhibits a relative humidity between 20 and 150 Nm at 20° C. and at atmospheric pressure. -1 Between and preferably between 40 and 120 Nm -1 The hardness between.

[0032] Ethyl cellulose

[0033] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose.

[0034] Ethylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising chains of β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each of the anhydroglucose units contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of which can react according to the following reaction:

[0035] RONa+R'Cl ROR'+NaCl, wherein R represents a cellulose group and R' represents an ethyl group.

[0036] Full substitution of the three hydroxyl groups per anhydroglucose unit would result in a degree of substitution of 3, in other words an alkoxy content of 54.88%.

[0037] The ethylcellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a polymer having a degree of substitution ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 ethoxy groups per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy content ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0038] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly present in pulverulent form.

[0039] Ethylcellulose is sold, for example, by Dow Chemicals under the trade name Ethocel Standard (including in particular Ethocel Standard 7FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100FP Premium). Other commercially available products, such as those sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aqualon EC K-type, N-type and T-type, preferably N-type (e.g. N7, N100), are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0040] Advantageously, the ethylcellulose content ranges from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] In addition to ethylcellulose, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one specific benzoate (Oil 1), at least one second oil (Oil 2), at least one nonvolatile phenylated silicone oil without dimethicone fragments (Oil 3), and optionally at least one different nonvolatile silicone oil (Oil 4), the second oil being a polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil other than Oil 1, in which at least one fatty alcohol is present. The respective content of oils in the composition is such that the weight ratio of the first oil, the second oil and, if appropriate, the fourth oil / third oil is between 0.5 and 1, more particularly between 0.7 and 1.

[0042] Paraben First Oil

[0043] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one first oil (thus a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure) chosen from benzoic acid and C 8 -C 20 , preferably C 8 -C 18 Esters of preferably saturated monohydric alcohols and also mixtures thereof.

[0044] More particularly, the first oil is selected from benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters (C12-15 alkyl benzoate-INCI name), C 16 -C 17 Alkyl esters (C16-17 alkyl benzoate - INCI name), stearyl benzoate, isostearyl benzoate, ethylhexyl benzoate and octyldodecyl benzoate and also mixtures thereof, and preferably C16-17 alkyl benzoate 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters.

[0045] Advantageously, the content of first oil (C) is from 8% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based second oil

[0047] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second oil which is a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0048] The term "oil" is understood to mean oil at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa) is a lipophilic substance that is liquid below 0.0547°C.

[0049] Advantageously, the oil is immiscible with water. The term "immiscible with" is understood to mean that the mixing of equal amounts of water and oil does not produce a stable solution containing only a single phase under standard temperature and pressure conditions after stirring. If necessary, 100 g of the mixture is observed by eye or using a phase contrast microscope, the mixture being obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri mixer to create a vortex in the mixture (as a guide, 200 to 1000 rpm), the resulting mixture being left to stand in a closed flask for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.

[0050] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean an oil which is essentially formed or even consists of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms and does not contain other heteroatoms such as, for example, one or more silicon atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oils are thus different from silicone oils. Hydrocarbon-based oils may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, polar oils contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen atom or nitrogen atom and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

[0052] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. The vapor pressure can be measured, for example, via a static method or via an elution method by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104).

[0053] The composition according to the invention comprises as second oil at least one C 10 -C 26 alcohol and optionally at least one oil selected from esters other than the first oil.

[0054] C10-C26 alcohol

[0055] The alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. These alcohols contain straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups containing from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. These alcohols are preferably monohydroxylated.

[0056] Preferably, the alcohol is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0057] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil with ester functionality

[0058] The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based second oil may also comprise at least one ester oil in addition to the first oil.

[0059] Advantageously, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based ester oils are chosen from hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, the total number of carbon atoms being preferably at least 12. Furthermore, the ester oils may optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions.

[0060] Among suitable ester oils, mention may be made of monoesters and diesters optionally containing one or two ether groups; aromatic saturated or unsaturated linear or branched triesters optionally containing one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols; esters and polyesters of mono- or dicarboxylic acids with dimer diols or monoalcohols; vegetable oils; and also mixtures thereof.

[0061] * Aromatic saturated or unsaturated linear or branched monoesters or diesters containing more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally one or two ether groups. Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoesters or diesters obtained from, on the one hand, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acids or dicarboxylic aliphatic acids, in particular containing from 4 to 28 and preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally containing at least one free hydroxyl group, and, on the other hand, saturated or unsaturated mono- or polyols containing from 2 to 26 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups; the number of carbon atoms is at least 12 and preferably at least 16. In addition, the esters may optionally contain one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.

[0062] By way of example, mention may be made of 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut derived alcohol (C 12 -C 18 esters of alcohol), 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or a mixture thereof.

[0063] We can also mention C 2-C 8 Monocarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and C 2 -C 8 Particularly suitable for the practice of the present invention are C 2 -C 8 Carboxylic acid and C 2 -C 8 An optionally hydroxylated monoester of an alcohol, and C 2 -C 8 Dicarboxylic acids and C 2 -C 8 Optionally hydroxylated diesters of alcohols, such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.

[0064] Mention may also be made of saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acids containing in particular from 4 to 28 carbon atoms and diols, in particular especially C 2 -C 5 Aromatic, unsaturated or saturated, linear or branched esters of glycols, glycerol or polyglycerols. Mention may be made, for example, of propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and also mixtures thereof.

[0065] * Non-aromatic saturated or unsaturated linear or branched triesters containing up to 80 carbon atoms and optionally containing one to three ether groups. Suitable for use in the present invention are aromatic saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 2 -C 40 , preferably C 4 -C 40 Monocarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and C 2 -C 40 , preferably C 3 -C 40 The polyester is an ester obtained from a polyhydric or monohydric alcohol; the polyester optionally contains at least one free hydroxyl group.

[0066] For example, triacetin and also saturated or unsaturated C 4 -C 36 Fatty acids, more particularly saturated or unsaturated straight or branched chain C 8 -C 20Triglycerides of fatty acids, such as, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or caprylic acid; in particular, saturated triglycerides may be mentioned, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as, for example, the products sold under the DUB MCT range by Stéarinerie Dubois), triheptanoin, tricaprylin, C 18-36 Triglycerides of glyceryl tristearate (such as those sold by the company DuBois under the index DUB TGI 24) or triisostearin.

[0067] Mention may also be made of triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol with monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate or glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate).

[0068] By way of example, mention may also be made of an optionally hydroxylated C 2 -C 9 Acid and C 2 -C 20 Oils of monohydric alcohols, these oils contain three ester functions, which are optionally hydroxylated or acetylated. Mention may be made of citric acid esters, such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate and likewise tridecyl trimellitate and also mixtures thereof.

[0069] * In particular tetraesters containing from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally containing one to three ether groups, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol with monocarboxylic acids, such as, for example, pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythritol tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate).

[0070] *Polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in patent application FR 0853634, in particular polyesters such as dilinoleic acid with 1,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this regard of the polymer sold under the name Viscoplast 14436H by BioSynthis (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butylene glycol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols with diacid dimers and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, which has the INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Linoleate Copolymer.

[0071] * Esters of dimer diols or polyols with monocarboxylic acids and / or dicarboxylic acids. For example, esters of dimer diols with fatty acids and esters of dimer diols with dicarboxylic acid dimers may be mentioned, in particular, they may be prepared from, in particular from C 8 To C 34 , especially C 12 To C 22 , especially C16 To C 20 And more specifically C 18 Dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids of the invention, such as the esters of dilinoleic acid and dilinoleyl dimer glycol (which has the INCI name dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate), for example available from Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan and The ones that are sold.

[0072] Also suitable are esters derived from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US 7317068. The polyol more particularly comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as preferably stearic acid, isostearic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid or a combination thereof; with regard to aromatic unsaturated or saturated linear or branched dicarboxylic acids, it more particularly comprises from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of pentaerythritol isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate, particularly marketed by Croda under the name Crodamol L, pentaerythritol adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate, marketed by Inolex under the name Lexfeel 700EX-LO-MB.

[0073] * vegetable oils, such as, for example, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, ximeniaoil oil, bacas oil, coriander oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, kernel oil (apricot kernel oil (Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil)), sweet almond oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin oil, zucchini oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, tung oil, the liquid part of shea butter and the liquid part of cocoa butter and also mixtures thereof;

[0074] The content of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based second oil ranges advantageously from 8% to 20% by weight, advantageously from 8% to less than 20% by weight and more particularly from 9% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] According to an advantageous variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one C as described above. 10 -C 26Alcohol, its content ranges from 8% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 9% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] More specifically, (ethyl cellulose / (ethyl cellulose+C 10 -C 26 The weight proportion of alcohol*100 is at least 10%, more particularly at least 15% and advantageously does not exceed 60%, preferably does not exceed 50%.

[0077] Non-volatile silicone third oil

[0078] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one third oil chosen from non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0080] The term "phenylated" indicates that the oil contains at least one phenyl group in its structure.

[0081] The term "polydimethylsiloxane fragment" means a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom carries two methyl groups, which are not located at one or more ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula:

[0082] -(Si(CH 3 ) 2 -O)-.

[0083] Preferably, the silicone does not contain C 2 -C 3 Alkylene oxide group or glycerolated group.

[0084] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one third oil chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane and also mixtures thereof, preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

[0085] Diphenyl dimethicone is sold, in particular, by ShinEtsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d and KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone is sold, for example, by Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.

[0086] The composition according to the invention comprises more particularly from 20% to 40% by weight and preferably from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Optional non-volatile silicone fourth oil

[0088] According to one variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone fourth oil having no dimethicone fragments.

[0089] Representative examples of these nonvolatile nonphenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include dimethicones and alkyl dimethicones.

[0090] It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

[0091] Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and polyisocyanates containing at least one C 2 -C 24 Alkyl dimethicone and also mixtures thereof.

[0092] As regards the non-volatile phenylated silicone oils without dimethicone fragments, mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Phenyl trimethicone, Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, alone or as a mixture.

[0093] Thus, these oils may be chosen from dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, alone or as a mixture.

[0094] As nonvolatile, non-phenylated silicone oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the Belsil DM series by Wacker, under the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid series by Dow Corning and under the KF-96A series by Shin-Etsu.

[0095] Alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes are sold, for example, under the trade references Abil Wax 9800 and Abil Wax 9801 by Evonik Goldschmidt or else under the trade references Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid and Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax by Dow Corning; and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Phenylated silicones are sold, in particular, by the company Dow Corning under the names PH-1555HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyltrimethicone); diphenyl dimethicones, such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d and KF-50-100CS or diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone KF56 A sold by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0097] If the composition contains a phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone fourth oil without dimethicone segments, its content meets the previously mentioned requirements regarding an Oil 1, Oil 2 and Oil 4 / Oil 3 weight ratio of less than or equal to 1.

[0098] Advantageously, if the composition comprises a fourth oil, its content is less than or equal to 5% by weight and more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0100] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one apolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0101] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "nonpolar oil" is intended to mean an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0102] Preferably, the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as, for example:

[0103] - liquid paraffin,

[0104] - squalane, in particular of plant origin,

[0105] - isoeicosane,

[0106] - saturated straight-chain hydrocarbons, more particularly C 15 -C 28 mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, such as those whose INCI names are, for example, C15-19 alkanes, C18-21 alkanes, C21-28 alkanes, for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,

[0107] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, such as the products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers,

[0108] - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutylene, such as sold by Nippon Oil & Fats A series of non-volatile compounds,

[0109] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example the non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by INEOS, Dekanex sold by IMCD,

[0110] - and mixtures thereof.

[0111] If the composition comprises a nonpolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the content of this hydrocarbon-based oil represents from 0.1% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Volatile Oil

[0113] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition may further comprise at least one volatile oil.

[0114] Volatile oils may in particular be silicone oils, preferably nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils and also mixtures thereof.

[0115] The term "volatile" is understood to mean an oil having a vapour pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure of between 2.66 Pa and 40000 Pa and preferably between 2.66 Pa and 1300 Pa.

[0116] As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of silicone oils having a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10 -6 m 2 / s), and in particular linear or cyclic silicones containing 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0117] As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of polydimethylsiloxanes of viscosities of 5 cSt and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which are preferably nonpolar, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

[0119] -Branched Chain C 8 -C 16 Alkanes, such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and the oils sold, for example, under the trade name Isopar by ExxonMobil,

[0120] - linear alkanes, for example n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the corresponding references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, undecane-tridecane mixtures (Cetiol UT), mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] When the composition comprises at least one additional volatile oil, their content more particularly represents from 0.1% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] wax

[0123] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one wax.

[0124] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid / liquid phase change, and has a melting point which may be greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

[0125] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC), as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments, using TAUniversal analysis software.

[0126] The measurement scheme is as follows:

[0127] 5 mg of a wax sample placed in a crucible was subjected to a first temperature increase in the range of -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase in the range of -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min.

[0128] During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed in the melting curve, which represents the variation of the absorbed energy difference with temperature variation.

[0129] It is also possible to measure the melting enthalpy (ΔHf) of a wax, which corresponds to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This melting enthalpy of a wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from solid to liquid. The melting enthalpy is expressed in J / g.

[0130] The wax may be a silicone wax and is preferably a hydrocarbon-based wax. The wax may also be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0131] In particular, the wax has a melting point that is preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better still greater than or equal to 40°C.

[0132] Non-polar wax

[0133] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar hydrocarbon-based wax" is intended to mean a wax consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms and containing no heteroatoms such as, for example, N, O, Si, P, etc.

[0134] By way of example of nonpolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may especially be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite waxes, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and microwaxes, in particular polyethylene.

[0135] Polar wax

[0136] The polar wax may especially be a hydrocarbon wax or a silicone wax.

[0137] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar hydrocarbon-based wax" is intended to mean a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed by or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and comprises at least one heteroatom more particularly chosen from oxygen, optionally nitrogen or mixtures thereof. Thus, the polar hydrocarbon-based wax may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0138] The term "silicone wax" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and especially comprising Si-O groups.

[0139] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon-based wax.

[0140] Waxes selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes are particularly preferred as the polar hydrocarbon-based wax.

[0141] According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester wax may also be hydroxylated.

[0142] According to the invention, the expression "alcohol wax" is understood to mean a wax which comprises at least one alcohol function, ie comprises at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0143] As ester waxes, in particular the following may be used, alone or as a mixture:

[0144] i) Formula R 1 COOR 2 Wax, of which R 1 and R 2 denotes a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain whose atomic number ranges from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, which may contain heteroatoms such as, for example, O or N, and whose melting point ranges more particularly from 30° C. to 120° C. In particular, as ester waxes, C 20 -C 40 Alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group contains from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), or C 20 -C 40 Alkyl stearates. Such waxes are especially marketed by KosterKeunen under the name Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 Kester Wax K80 Or KesterWax K82H. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl octanoate and mixtures thereof can also be used;

[0145] ii) di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate;

[0146] iii) a diester wax of a dicarboxylic acid having the general formula

[0147] R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ), where R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and represent C 4 -C 30 Alkyl, and R 4 Indicates straight or branched chain C 4 -C 30 An aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. 4 -C 30 Aliphatic groups are straight-chain and unsaturated;

[0148] iv) Mention may also be made of the catalytic hydrogenation of pyrolysis products, in particular of linear or branched C 8 -C 32Waxes obtained from animal or vegetable oils with a fatty chain, such as, for example, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the Phytowax Castor series (e.g. Phytowax Castor ), or also waxes obtained by hydrogenating olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those of the Phytowax Olive range sold by Sophim (for example Phytowax Olive 18L57). Such waxes are described in particular in application FR 2 792 190;

[0149] v) corresponds to a saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 16 -C 30 Waxes of partial or full esters, preferably full esters, of carboxylic acids with glycerol. The term "full ester" is intended to mean that all hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. Mention may be made, by way of example, of trihydroxystearin (or trihydroxystearin), tristearin (or tristearin) or tribehenin (or tribehenin), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol with 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties;

[0150] vi) Mention may also be made of waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, cocoa wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax or sunflower wax, in particular refined sunflower wax;

[0151] vii) Mention may also be made of natural or synthetic polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes of animal or vegetable origin; (C 2 -C 4) The number of oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. By way of example, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba wax; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glycerides; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, acacia / jojoba / sunflower wax / polyglyceryl-3 esters mixtures, polyglycerolated vegetable waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (acacia / jojoba / sunflower wax polyglyceryl-3 esters).

[0152] According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. As the alcohol wax, saturated linear C 30 -C 50 Mixtures of alcohols are for example the wax Performacol 550 alcohol from New Phase Technology, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

[0153] Silicone wax

[0154] As silicone waxes, mention may be made, for example, of mixtures comprising compounds of the C30-45 alkyldimethylsilylpolypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) type, such as the product Dow Corning SW-8005C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of mixtures comprising compounds of the C30-45 alkylmethicone (INCI name) type, such as the product Dow Corning SW-8005C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning. AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Mention may also be made of siliconized beeswax.

[0155] Preferably, if the composition comprises a wax, the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes. More particularly, the wax is chosen from nonpolar waxes; polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, alone or as a mixture.

[0156] If the composition comprises a wax, its content advantageously ranges from 1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] Paste Compounds

[0158] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound which is in the form of a paste at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0159] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "paste-like" means a lipophilic compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change, in particular having an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state and comprising a liquid portion and a solid portion at ambient temperature.

[0160] In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty compound may be below ambient temperature. The liquid portion of the pasty compound measured at ambient temperature may be from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This portion that is liquid at ambient temperature preferably accounts for 15% to 85%, more preferably 40% to 85% by weight.

[0161] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principles as described in detail above for the wax.

[0162] However, in the case of pasty compounds, The measurement scheme is as follows :

[0163] 5 mg of a pasty fatty substance sample placed in a crucible was subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min.

[0164] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed energy as a function of temperature.

[0165] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

[0166] The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is the amount of heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when the entire mass of the substance is in the form of a crystalline solid. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when the entire mass of the substance is in the form of a liquid.

[0167] The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. The heat of fusion is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0168] The pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of vegetable origin.

[0169] The pasty compound or compounds may in particular be chosen from:

[0170] - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate or oxypropylated lanolin;

[0171] - Petrolatum (also known as petrolatum);

[0172] -Pentaerythritol and C 2 -C 4 Ethers of polyalkylene glycols, for example the compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether, PPG-5 pentaerythritol ether and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, for example, of the mixtures sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy,

[0173] -Composed of one or more C 2 -C 100 With the preferred C 2 -C 50 Among the lipophilic polyethers, polyethers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 Copolymers of alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxide in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of the products with the INCI name PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer sold for example by Akzo Nobel under the trade name Elfacos ST9,

[0174] - preferably saturated straight or branched chain C 6 -C 10 A dicarboxylic acid with diglycerol and an optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, straight-chain or branched C 6 -C 20 Esters produced by condensation of esters of monocarboxylic acids, especially by condensation of adipic acid with diglycerol and C 6 -C 20 The diesters obtained by condensation of a mixture of esters of a mixture of fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, which diesters are notably manufactured by CremerOleo under the reference number 649 sales (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2),

[0175] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 -C 18 Triglycerides of fatty acids, optionally (completely or partially) hydrogenated; for example, such as those sold by the company Cremo under the name Softisan Sales of saturated C 12 -C 18 Glyceryl esters of fatty acids (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

[0176] - Dimer diols or esters of polyols with dimer diacids, such as, for example:

[0177] * esters of dimer dilinoleyl alcohol with dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Dibehenyl Alcohol / Isostearyl Alcohol / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0178] * Esters of dilinoleic acid with a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the esters sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl Alcohol / Cetyl Alcohol / Stearyl Alcohol / Behenyl Alcohol Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0179] - butters of vegetable origin, such as mango butter, such as the product sold by Aarhus Karlshamn under the reference number Lipex 203; shea butter, in particular the product with the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold by Aarhus Karlshamn under the reference number Lipex 203; products sold; cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; and also orange wax, for example the orange wax sold by Costa under the reference Orange Peel Wax,

[0180] - fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as, for example, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as a mixture of hydrogenated soybean oil, coconut oil, palm oil and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example, the product marketed by the Ajus Carles Oil Company under the reference number A mixture sold under the INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference number Iso-Jojoba- Trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, and partially hydrogenated olive oil manufactured or sold, such as the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance,

[0181] hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil,

[0182] - and mixtures thereof.

[0183] Preferably, the pasty compound is chosen from the products with the following INCI names: PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, hydrogenated coconut glycerides, dimer glycol or esters of polyols with diacid dimers, butters of vegetable origin and mixtures thereof.

[0184] If the composition comprises at least one pasty compound, its content ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferably from 2% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] Colorants

[0186] The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one colorant of synthetic, natural or natural origin.

[0187] More particularly, the content of colorant in the composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] The colorant may be selected from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0189] pigment

[0190] The term "pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in the medium of the composition and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. Pigments are therefore not fillers.

[0191] According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0192] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopaedia. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders (for example aluminum powder or copper powder). The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 、Ti 3 O 5 、Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, and TiO 2 A mixture of ZrO 2 、ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 、CeO 2 , ZnS.

[0193] The size of the pigments useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0194] According to one particular form of the invention, the pigment has a size characterized by D

[50] greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0195] These sizes were obtained using a commercial MasterSizer from Malvern. The particle size analyzer measures by static light scattering, which makes it possible to determine the size distribution of all these particles over a wide range (which can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm). The data are processed based on the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most applicable to size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows the determination of the "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the following publications: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0196] D

[50] represents the maximum dimension present at 50% by volume of the particles.

[0197] In the context of the present invention, mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. Examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxide and iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, such as those manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei under the reference number For sale.

[0198] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of pearlescent agents.

[0199] The term "pearlescent agent" is understood to mean any form of coloured particles (which may or may not be iridescent), especially produced by certain molluscs in their shells, or alternatively synthetically, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

[0200] The pearlescent agent can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica titanium coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with organic dyes and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. These pearlescent agents can also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants are superimposed in sequence.

[0201] Examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

[0202] The pearlescent agent may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or hue.

[0203] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those pigments having optical effects other than simple conventional coloring effects, i.e. uniform and stabilized effects as produced by conventional colorants (e.g. monochromatic pigments). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means an effect that lacks color variability with viewing angle or in response to temperature changes.

[0204] For example, this material can be chosen from particles with metallic hues, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromics, optical brighteners, and also fibers, especially interference fibers. Needless to say, these different materials can be combined in order to provide two effects at the same time, or even novel effects according to the invention.

[0205] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0206] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0207] Pigments of this type are particularly advantageous. In the case of treatment of these pigments with hydrophobic compounds, these pigments show a predominant affinity for the oil phase which can then transport them.

[0208] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0209] For the purposes of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally means a total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant which absorbs, adsorbs or grafts onto the pigment.

[0210] The surface treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electrical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0211] Surfactants can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and formation of covalent bonds.

[0212] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists in applying a pigment.

[0213] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0214] The coating can be produced, for example, by absorbing a liquid surfactant onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the particles with said surfactant under stirring, optionally with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the cosmetic or care composition.

[0215] The coating can be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of the surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and formation of covalent bonds between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in patent US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

[0216] Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0217] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, this coating is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0218] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: silicone surfactant; fluorine surfactant; fluorosilicone surfactant; metal soap; N-acyl amino acid or its salt; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal wax; polar synthetic wax; fatty ester; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0219] According to one specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0220] According to another particular embodiment, the colorant is a synthetic, natural or organic pigment of natural origin.

[0221] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopaedia. The organic pigment may be chosen in particular from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, peronone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0222] The organic pigments may be selected, for example, from the following: carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments indexed in the color index with the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments indexed in the color index with the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments indexed in the color index with the numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments indexed in the color index with the numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 red pigments included in the color index, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2679771.

[0223] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments may especially consist of particles comprising a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0224] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" means an insoluble dye adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0225] Mineral substrates onto which the dye is adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0226] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal red. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0227] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0228] The pigment is preferably present in a content of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight and even more particularly at least 2% by weight relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the colorant content is less than 30% by weight, more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes

[0230] According to another specific embodiment of the present invention, the colorant is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

[0231] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound which is soluble in an aqueous phase or in a water-miscible solvent and is capable of coloring.

[0232] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound which is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent miscible with an oily phase and which is capable of imparting color.

[0233] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may especially be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1.

[0234] Among the natural water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of anthocyanins.

[0235] As fat-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, there may be mentioned, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red and Sudan Brown.

[0236] As illustration of natural fat-soluble dyes, mention may in particular be made of: carotenes, such as β-carotene, α-carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls, such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, ranunculaxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubaxanthin, fusaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinazins (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinoxanthin Green SS) and chlorophyll.

[0237] If the composition comprises a water-soluble or liposoluble dye, it is preferably present in the composition in a content of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] filler

[0239] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

[0240] "Fillers" mean colourless or white particles of organic or inorganic nature, which are solid, of any shape and insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. These fillers are advantageously dispersed in the composition.

[0241] The term "inorganic" is understood to mean any compound whose chemical structure does not contain carbon atoms.

[0242] The fillers may or may not be surface-coated and may in particular be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersibility and compatibility of the fillers in the composition.

[0243] Such fillers are distinct from the mineral thickeners and colorants described above.

[0244] The filler may be spherical, that is to say comprising at least a circular overall portion, preferably defining at least one spherical portion, preferably defining a concavity or hollowness internally (sphere, bead, bowl, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.

[0245] Such fillers are advantageously selected from:

[0246] - Silicon dioxide powder, such as the one produced by Miyoshi Corporation under the name Silica Beads SB-700 or by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. under the name H-51 or Porous silica microspheres sold under the name SA H-33 or SA H-53 sells polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres,

[0247] - Powders of acrylic acid (co)polymers and their derivatives, in particular:

[0248] *Sensient Corporation LH85 is also available from Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku under the name Microsphere Polymethyl methacrylate powder for sale,

[0249] *Manufactured by Dow Corning Corporation under the name Dow Corning 5640 Skin Oil Adsorber or Ganz Chemical GMP-0820 sells polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder,

[0250] *Registered by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Pte Ltd under the name L200 or E200 sold polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder,

[0251] *Supplied by Amco Health & Beauty Solutions Ltd. under the name 6603 Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder sold by Adsorber,

[0252] * Optionally cross-linked acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer cross-linked acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer powder sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by Sekisui Plastics,

[0253] * Ethylene / acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals under the name Those that are sold,

[0254] * Expanded hollow particles of acrylonitrile (co)polymer sold under the name Expancel by Akzo Nobel or Micropearl F 80 by Matsumoto Co., Ltd. Microspheres for sale,

[0255] - polyurethane powders, such as those sold under the names D-400, CS-400 and D-800 by Toshiki,

[0256] - Silicone powders, advantageously chosen from:

[0257] * polymethylsilsesquioxane powders, in particular those sold under the name Tospearl by Momentive Performance Materials, in particular Tospearl 145A,

[0258] *organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated with silicone resins, in particular with silsesquioxane resins, such as the products sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 or KSP-105 by Shin-Etsu Corporation (INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer),

[0259] * Silicone elastomer powders, such as those sold by Dow Corning under the name Dowsil Trefil E-506S Silicone Powder or Powder E-506C products sold,

[0260] * powders of organosiloxane particles, for example in the form of bowls, such as those described in JP-2003128788 or JP-A-2000-191789, or also those described in application EP 1579841 and sold in particular by Takemoto Oil & Fat,

[0261] - Polyamide powders, such as Powders, in particular Nylon 12 powders, such as those sold under the name Nylon 12 by Arkema 2002EXS NAT COS sold nylon powder,

[0262] - powders of natural organic materials, such as polysaccharide powders and in particular starch powders, especially cross-linked or non-cross-linked corn, wheat or rice starch powders; sold under the name starch powders cross-linked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, such as those sold under the name C*Gel 04201 by Cargill, Maize Starch B by Roquette and Organic Corn Starch by Draco Natural Products,

[0263] - spherical cellulose microparticles, such as Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo,

[0264] -N-(C 8 -C 22 the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine, such as Amihope LL from Ajinomoto or also those sold under the name Corum 5105 S by Corum,

[0265] - Perlite powder, such as those sold by World Minerals under the trade names Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040 or 1430OR or 2550OR, those sold by Imerys under the trade names Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1,

[0266] - zeolites, such as the products sold under the names Zeoflavir 300, Zeoflavir 200, Zeoflavir 100, X-Mol and X-Mol MT by the company Zeochem,

[0267] Calcium magnesium carbonate particles, such as those sold under the name Calcidol by Ingelheim, Carbomat by LCW (Sensing) or Omyacare S60-AV by Omya.

[0268] It is also possible to use talc particles, for example those sold under the names Luzenac Pharma M and UM by the company Ingelheim and under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc; natural or synthetic mica particles, such as those sold under the names Mica M RP and Silk Mic by Merck, or the product sold under the name Sericite S-152-BC by Miyoshi Chemicals; calcium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate; hydroxyapatite; boron nitride; fluorphlogopite; and mixtures thereof.

[0269] The spherical filler can be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent can be selected from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acid can contain an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearyl or coconut oil acyl. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above particularly refers to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0270] If the composition according to the invention contains a filler, the content of this filler advantageously represents from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0271] Mineral thickener

[0272] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mineral thickener chosen from optionally modified clays, optionally modified silicas or mixtures thereof.

[0273] More particularly, if the composition contains a mineral thickener, the content of this mineral thickener, expressed as active material, is from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0274] Optionally modified clay

[0275] Clays are silicates containing cations which may be selected from the group consisting of calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and mixtures thereof.

[0276] As examples of such products, mention may be made of clays of the montmorillonite group and also of the vermiculite, stevensite or chlorite group. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0277] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite or sepiolite and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably bentonite or hectorite.

[0278] These clays are modified with compounds selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates or amine oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0279] Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified with quaternary amines, more particularly of C 2+ containing or not containing aromatic groups. 10 To C 22 Fatty acid halogenated (e.g. chloride) ammonium modified, such as hectorites modified with distearyldimethylammonium halide (preferably chloride) (CTFA name: disteardimethylammonium hectorite), such as those sold under the names Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE by Elementis, or stearalkonium chloride hectorites, such as in particular the product Bentone 27V.

[0280] Mention may also be made of quaternary ammonium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the name Bentone 34 by Hemmings, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; or quaternary ammonium-18 / benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay.

[0281] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular modified with benzyldimethylammonium stearate or distearyldimethylammonium halide (in particular chloride).

[0282] According to an alternative form of the invention, the content of optionally modified clay ranges from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. These percentages are expressed as active material.

[0283] Optionally modified silica

[0284] Mention may also be made of fumed silica, preferably treated to be hydrophobic on the surface, the size of the particles of which is advantageously less than 1 μm. In fact, the surface of the silica can be chemically modified by a chemical reaction, thereby causing a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. In particular, the silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be:

[0285] - trimethylsiloxy groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. According to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995), silicas treated in this way are called silylated silicas (Silica Silylate). They are sold, for example, by Degussa under the reference number Aerosil and Cab-O-Sil Sale.

[0286] - dimethylsiloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. According to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995), silicas treated in this way are called "silica dimethyl silylate". They are marketed, for example, by Degussa under the reference number Aerosil and Aerosil and Cab-O-Sil and Cab-O-Sil Sale.

[0287] The hydrophobic fumed silica particularly has a particle size that may be nanometer-sized to micrometer-sized, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

[0288] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least silica aerogel particles.

[0289] Silica aerogel is a porous material obtained by replacing the liquid component of silica gel with air (through drying).

[0290] These aerogels are typically synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used supercritical fluid being supercritical CO. 2 This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of pores and materials. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0291] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles suitable for practicing the present invention exhibit a range of from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200m 2 / g and even better from 600 to 800m 2 The specific surface area per unit mass (S M ), and a size expressed as a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.

[0292] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a diameter ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 The specific surface area per unit mass (S M ) and a size denoted as volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.

[0293] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938 and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles under consideration.

[0294] The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is accurate for isotropic particles, making it possible to determine the "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is particularly described in the following publication: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0295] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a diameter ranging from 5 to 60 μm. 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50m 2 / cm 3 And also better from 15 to 40m 2 / cm 3 The specific surface area per unit volume S V .

[0296] Aerogels that can be used according to the invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

[0297] With regard to the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles which have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

[0298] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used.

[0299] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogels sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate), the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a diameter ranging from 600 to 800 microns. 2 / g of specific surface area per unit mass.

[0300] Mention may also be made of the products manufactured by Cabot Corporation under the reference numbers Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Aerogels are sold as Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

[0301] It will be preferred to use an aerogel sold by the company Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATED), the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a particle size ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g of specific surface area per unit mass.

[0302] Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one thickener chosen from optionally modified silicas, the optionally modified silicas are chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0303] According to an alternative form of the invention, the content of optionally modified silica ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferably from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. These values ​​are expressed as weight of active material.

[0304] Preferably, the mineral thickener is chosen from organophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobically treated fumed silicas; hydrophobic silica aerogels; or mixtures thereof, and more particularly also at least one organophilic modified clay or at least one hydrophobically modified silica, in particular hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0305] Optional additives

[0306] The composition may comprise at least one optional additive selected from, for example, film formers; antioxidants; preservatives; fragrances; flavoring agents; neutralizers; emollients; organic thickeners, such as, for example, linear or branched dextrin esters; coalescing agents; humectants; vitamins; and mixtures thereof.

[0307] Of course, a person skilled in the art will carefully choose the optional additional additives and / or their amounts such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially adversely affected by the envisaged additions.

[0308] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without however limiting its scope.

[0309] Examples

[0310] Example 1

[0311] The following compositions were prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents are collated in the table below (unless otherwise stated, the contents are expressed as % by weight of the raw materials):

[0312] [Table 1]

[0313]

[0314] Preparation of the composition:

[0315] At 105°C, ethylcellulose was dispersed in octyl dodecanol and benzoic acid C under Rayneri stirring (stirring speed was sufficient to produce a vortex). 12 -C 15 A portion of the alkyl ester.

[0316] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, add octyldodecanol and benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 The remainder of the alkyl esters, VP / eicosene copolymer, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and wax were subjected to the same temperature and agitation conditions.

[0317] After homogenization, the phenylated silicone was added at 105° C. with Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes.

[0318] Finally, isohexadecane was added at 105°C with stirring.

[0319] Once the resulting mixture has been homogenized, the pigment is added with stirring.

[0320] The resulting mixture was poured hot into a lipstick mold preheated to 42° C., and the assembly was cooled to 4° C. Finally, the composition was removed from the mold and the lipstick was conditioned.

[0321] Evaluation of composition:

[0322] stability

[0323] The stability of the compositions was evaluated by storing the compositions at ambient temperature for 72 hours and observing the presence or absence of exudation of one or more oils.

[0324] hardness:

[0325] Hardness was measured according to the protocol defined in the above description.

[0326] Metastasis resistance:

[0327] Apply makeup to the lips by making two passes.

[0328] After waiting for 1 hour without eating or drinking anything, press the lips onto a 2 on white copy paper (kiss test).

[0329] The color deposited on the paper was assessed visually.

[0330] The color deposited on paper can also be measured by a CIE Lab colorimeter.

[0331] Gloss measurement:

[0332] Gloss is measured by evaluating the reflection of the deposit on the support.

[0333] The gloss measurements were performed using a BYK Gardner Micro-Tri-Gloss gloss meter and at 3 angles: 20°, 60° and 85°. The index of light reflected on the product was calculated in gloss units (GU).

[0334] For this purpose, the formulation was spread onto an Erichsen comparison card in an amount sufficient to be able to obtain a film thickness of 100 μm using a spreader. After spreading for 1 hour, the gloss measurement was carried out on the white part of the card.

[0335] Viscosity measurement:

[0336] A sufficient amount of the composition was sampled and then squeezed in a stainless steel container having a depth of 100 micrometers.

[0337] The composition was then leveled before taking measurements.

[0338] The container was dried at ambient temperature for 1 hour.

[0339] The device used was a TAXT2i texture analyser. A clamp mounted on the device grips a 6 mm diameter AU4G cylinder, to the end of which is adhesively bonded a tip made of a smooth beige material that simulates skin, with the same diameter and a thickness of 2 mm.

[0340] Between each measurement, the tip was cleaned with ethanol. Measurements were never taken at the same location in the sample.

[0341] The hold time related parameters for the compression test are given below:

[0342] [Table 2]

[0343] Approach speed (or pre-speed) 1mm / s Speed ​​(from contact detection) 0.1mm / s Force (and corresponding pressure) 0.283N (0.01MPa) Contact time 3 seconds Withdrawal speed (or back speed) 0.1mm / s

[0344] result:

[0345] The obtained composition is stable.

[0346] The composition is easy to apply, has good glide characteristics, and is drag-free, allowing for a well-defined, fine, intense, covering, non-tacky, and non-migrating deposit.

[0347] The deposit obtained is comfortable and remains so over time without any feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0348] The deposit is glossy, has good abrasion resistance for this gloss, and has good transfer resistance.

[0349] Example 2

[0350] The following compositions were prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents are collated in the table below (unless otherwise stated, the contents are expressed as % by weight of the raw materials):

[0351] [Table 3]

[0352]

[0353] Preparation of the composition:

[0354] At 105°C, ethylcellulose was dispersed in octyl dodecanol and benzoic acid C under Rayneri stirring (stirring speed was sufficient to produce a vortex). 12 -C 15 A portion of the alkyl ester.

[0355] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, add octyldodecanol and benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 The remainder of the alkyl esters, VP / eicosene copolymer, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and wax were subjected to the same temperature and agitation conditions.

[0356] After homogenization, the phenylated silicone was added at 105° C. with Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes.

[0357] Finally, the hydrogenated polyisobutylene was added at 105° C. with stirring.

[0358] Once the resulting mixture has been homogenized, pigment and methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer filler are added with stirring.

[0359] The resulting mixture was poured hot into a lipstick mold preheated to 42° C., and the assembly was cooled to 4° C. Finally, the composition was removed from the mold and the lipstick was conditioned.

[0360] result:

[0361] The obtained composition is stable.

[0362] The composition is easy to apply, has good glide characteristics, and is drag-free, allowing for a well-defined, fine, intense, covering, non-tacky, and non-migrating deposit.

[0363] The deposit obtained is comfortable and remains so over time without any feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0364] The deposit is glossy, has good abrasion resistance for this gloss, and has good transfer resistance.

[0365] Example 3

[0366] The following compositions were prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents are collated in the table below (unless otherwise stated, the contents are expressed as % by weight of the raw materials):

[0367] [Table 4]

[0368]

[0369]

[0370] Preparation of the composition:

[0371] At 105°C, ethylcellulose was dispersed in octyl dodecanol and benzoic acid C under Rayneri stirring (stirring speed was sufficient to produce a vortex). 12 -C 15 A portion of the alkyl ester.

[0372] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, add octyldodecanol and benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 The remainder of the alkyl esters, VP / eicosene copolymer, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and wax were subjected to the same temperature and agitation conditions.

[0373] After homogenization, the phenylated silicone was added at 105° C. with Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes.

[0374] Finally, the hydrogenated polyisobutylene was added at 105° C. with stirring.

[0375] Once the resulting mixture has been homogenized, the pigment is added with stirring.

[0376] The resulting mixture was poured hot into a lipstick mold preheated to 42° C., and the assembly was cooled to 4° C. Finally, the composition was removed from the mold and the lipstick was conditioned.

[0377] result:

[0378] The obtained composition is stable.

[0379] The composition is easy to apply, has good glide characteristics, and is drag-free, allowing for a well-defined, fine, intense, covering, non-tacky, and non-migrating deposit.

[0380] The deposit obtained is comfortable and remains so over time without any feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0381] The deposit is glossy, has good abrasion resistance for this gloss, and has good transfer resistance.

[0382] Example 4

[0383] The following compositions were prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents are collated in the table below (unless otherwise stated, the contents are expressed as % by weight of the raw materials):

[0384] [Table 5]

[0385]

[0386]

[0387] Preparation of the composition:

[0388] At 105°C, ethylcellulose was dispersed in octyl dodecanol and benzoic acid C under Rayneri stirring (stirring speed was sufficient to produce a vortex). 12 -C 15A portion of the alkyl ester.

[0389] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, add octyldodecanol and benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 The remainder of the alkyl esters, VP / eicosene copolymer, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and wax were subjected to the same temperature and agitation conditions.

[0390] After homogenization, the phenylated silicone was added at 105° C. with Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes.

[0391] Finally, isohexadecane was added at 105°C with stirring.

[0392] Once the resulting mixture has been homogenized, the pigment is added with stirring.

[0393] The resulting mixture was poured hot into a lipstick mold preheated to 42° C., and the assembly was cooled to 4° C. Finally, the composition was removed from the mold and the lipstick was conditioned.

[0394] result:

[0395] The obtained composition is stable.

[0396] The composition is easy to apply, has good glide characteristics, and is drag-free, allowing for a well-defined, fine, intense, covering, non-tacky, and non-migrating deposit.

[0397] The deposit obtained is comfortable and remains so over time without any feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0398] The deposit is glossy, has good abrasion resistance for this gloss, and has good transfer resistance.

[0399] Example 5

[0400] The following compositions were prepared, the ingredients and their respective contents are collated in the table below (unless otherwise stated, the contents are expressed as % by weight of the raw materials):

[0401] [Table 6]

[0402]

[0403] Preparation of the composition:

[0404] At 105°C, ethylcellulose was dispersed in octyl dodecanol and benzoic acid C under Rayneri stirring (stirring speed was sufficient to produce a vortex). 12 -C 15 A portion of the alkyl ester.

[0405] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, add octyldodecanol and benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 The remainder of the alkyl esters, VP / eicosene copolymer, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and wax were subjected to the same temperature and agitation conditions.

[0406] After homogenization, the phenylated silicone was added at 105° C. with Rayneri stirring for at least 15 minutes.

[0407] Finally, isohexadecane was added at 105°C with stirring.

[0408] Once the resulting mixture has been homogenized, the pigment is added with stirring.

[0409] The resulting mixture was poured hot into a lipstick mold preheated to 42° C., and the assembly was cooled to 4° C. Finally, the composition was removed from the mold and the lipstick was conditioned.

[0410] result:

[0411] The obtained composition is stable.

[0412] The composition is easy to apply, has good glide characteristics, and is drag-free, allowing for a well-defined, fine, intense, covering, non-tacky, and non-migrating deposit.

[0413] The deposit obtained is comfortable and remains so over time without any feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0414] The deposit is glossy, has good abrasion resistance for this gloss, and has good transfer resistance.

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition for making up human keratin substances, in particular skin and / or lips, the solid cosmetic composition comprising: * at least ethylcellulose, *At least one first oil, the at least one first oil selected from benzoic acid and C8-C 20 , preferably C8-C 18 Esters of preferably saturated monohydric alcohols and also mixtures thereof, * at least one second oil, the at least one second oil being selected from C 10 -C 26 a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of an alcohol and optionally an ester other than said first oil, * at least one third oil chosen from non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, *optionally at least one fourth oil, the at least one fourth oil being a non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil or a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil without dimethicone segments, * The content of oil is such that the weight ratio of the first oil, the second oil and, where appropriate, the fourth oil / the third oil is less than or equal to 1.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that The ethylcellulose content is between 1% and 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that The first oil is selected from benzoic acid monoesters, and the benzoic acid monoesters are selected from benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, benzoic acid C 16 -C 17 benzoate, stearyl benzoate, isostearyl benzoate, ethylhexyl benzoate and octyldodecyl benzoate and also mixtures thereof, and preferably benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The content of first oil is between 8% and 30% by weight and more particularly from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based second oil is selected from preferably saturated monohydroxylated C 10 -C 26 Alcohol, the alcohol is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based second oil may also contain at least one ester other than the first oil, chosen from aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoesters or diesters containing more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally one or two ether groups; aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched triesters containing up to 80 carbon atoms, optionally containing one to three ether groups; tetraesters containing in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally containing one to three ether groups; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols; esters of dimer diols or polyols with monocarboxylic and / or dicarboxylic acids; vegetable oils; and also mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The content of the second oil ranges from 8% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 9% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that C 10 -C 26 The alcohol content ranges from 8% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 9% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that (ethyl cellulose / (ethyl cellulose+C 10 -C 26 The weight proportion of alcohol*100 is at least 10%, more particularly at least 15% and advantageously does not exceed 60%, preferably does not exceed 50%.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The non-volatile phenylated silicone third oil comprising at least one dimethicone group is chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane and also mixtures thereof, preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The content of non-volatile phenylated silicone third oil ranges from 20% to 40% by weight and preferably from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The composition comprises at least one fourth oil which is a nonvolatile phenylated silicone oil without dimethicone fragments or a nonvolatile non-phenylated silicone oil, in particular at least one oil chosen from dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and also mixtures thereof.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that If the composition comprises a fourth oil, the content of said fourth oil is less than or equal to 5% by weight and more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The content of oil is such that the weight ratio of the first oil, the second oil and, where appropriate, the fourth oil / the third oil is between 0.5 and 1, more particularly between 0.7 and 1.

15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The composition comprises at least one nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular chosen from liquid paraffin; squalane; isoeicosane; mixtures of saturated linear, more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons; hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polybutene; hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polyisobutene; hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polydecene; and also mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that The content of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is from 0.1% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The composition comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil or a combination thereof, preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

18. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that The content of volatile oil is from 0.1% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one wax, more particularly chosen from polar or nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes.

20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that The wax is chosen from apolar waxes; polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin; alcohol waxes; and also mixtures thereof; and is preferably chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, alone or as a mixture.

21. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that The content of wax ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one compound, preferably a hydrocarbon-based compound, which is in the form of a paste at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

23. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that The content of pasty compound ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferably from 2% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition, more particularly less than 1% by weight and even more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one colorant, in particular chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents and also mixtures thereof.

26. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition optionally comprises at least one mineral thickener chosen from optionally modified clays, optionally modified silicas or mixtures thereof; more particularly, the content of said mineral thickener expressed as active material ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. A method for making up and / or caring for the lips, comprising applying a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

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