Composition for nourishing scalp and protecting hair as well as preparation method and application of composition

Abstract

The invention provides a composition for nourishing scalp and protecting hair as well as a preparation method and application thereof, and relates to the technical field of daily chemical products. The composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 0.01 to 5 parts of phytosterol ester, 0.01 to 3 parts of cocamidopropyl-PG-sodium dimethyl ammonium chloride phosphate, 10 to 60 parts of rose hydrosol and 0.01 to 5 parts of dendrobium officinale polysaccharide essence. All the components in the composition cooperate with one another, so that the composition can regulate hair and maintain scalp, and the effects of repairing scalp barriers, relieving scalp irritation, balancing water and oil secretion and softening the hair are achieved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of daily chemical products, and in particular to a scalp nourishing and hair care composition and a preparation method and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] Shampoo can be divided into two categories according to its appearance: transparent and opaque systems. Compared with the traditional two-in-one opaque system, the transparent system cannot add traditional emulsified silicone oil, oil-soluble oils and other fat excipients, and it is difficult to achieve the dual experience requirements of efficient film formation and conditioning and maintenance of the scalp, and has higher requirements for raw materials and formula design.

[0003] As we all know, the irritation or sensitization caused by surfactants is mainly caused by three factors: dissolution, penetration and reactivity. Solubility refers to the degree of dissolution of surfactants to the moisturizing components of the skin itself (such as moisturizing factor NMF), intercellular lipids and free amino acids and fats in the stratum corneum, and even the lipid bilayer. Penetration refers to the ability of surfactants to penetrate through the skin. This effect is considered to be one of the causes of various skin inflammations. Penetration changes the original structural state of the skin and the compatibility between adjacent molecules. Reactivity refers to the adsorption of surfactants on proteins, interaction with keratin in the stratum corneum, resulting in denaturation of α-helical structure, changes in secondary and tertiary structures, exposure of more hydrophilic sites, changes in skin pH conditions, etc. These characteristics ultimately lead to degreasing of the stratum corneum, loose brick wall structure, increased TEWL levels, irritants inducing immune responses, and inflammation. Therefore, it is very necessary to minimize the irritation caused by surfactants in transparent shampoo.

[0004] With the upgrading of consumption and the development of diversified demand segmentation, transparent shampoo that can meet consumer needs should have good conditioning and scalp care, achieving a dual balance of cleansing, conditioning and gentleness. At present, the conditioning effect of transparent shampoo is mainly achieved by adding modified water-soluble silicone oil, nano-plant oil, and water-soluble synthetic oil. However, because their structure and content do not meet the requirements, most of them will be washed away during the wet flushing stage due to their strong water solubility, and there is no obvious outstanding effect of repairing hair scales during the dry hair stage. At the same time, silicone oil cannot care for the scalp; nano-type plant oil contains a large amount of free fatty acids. Once it remains on the scalp, it will increase the burden on the scalp and increase the itching of dandruff. It cannot meet the conditioning needs, and it cannot solve the problems of dryness, sensitivity, dandruff, and oiliness caused by cleaning, resulting in serious damage to the scalp barrier. Summary of the invention

[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a scalp nourishing and hair care composition and its preparation method and application in view of the deficiencies in the prior art. The composition can be effectively deposited on the scalp and hair with the help of a cationic conditioner in the flocculation stage, so as to repair the scalp barrier, alleviate scalp irritation, balance water and oil secretion, and make the hair smooth, and can be applied to transparent shampoo products.

[0006] To achieve the above purpose, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is as follows:

[0007] In a first aspect, a composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting hair comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 0.01-5 parts of phytosterol esters, 0.01-3 parts of sodium cocamidopropyl-PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate, 10-60 parts of rose hydrosol, and 0.01-5 parts of Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract.

[0008] Furthermore, the amount of the phytosterol ester added to the scalp nourishing and hair care composition is 0.01-5 parts, for example, it can be 0.01 parts, 0.02 parts, 0.03 parts, 0.04 parts, 0.05 parts, 0.06 parts, 0.07 parts, 0.08 parts, 0.09 parts, 0.1 parts, 1 parts, 2 parts, 3 parts, 4 parts, 5 parts or any range therebetween; the molecular weight of the phytosterol ester is 700-1300Da, for example, it can be 700Da, 800Da, 900Da, 1000Da, 1100Da, 1200Da, 1300Da or any range therebetween.

[0009] Furthermore, the saponification value of the phytosterol ester is ≤150 mgKOH / g.

[0010] Optionally, the phytosterol ester is an ester formed by phytosterol and fatty acid, including but not limited to phytosterol oleate, phytosterol isostearate, phytosterol canola oleate, phytosterol macadamia oleate, phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate. Preferably, the phytosterol ester is phytosterol oleate.

[0011] The present invention aims at the damage of surfactant cleansers to hair and scalp, and provides a composition that can protect and repair at the same time. The structure of phytosterol ester is similar to that of cholesterol, and the homology between phytosterol ester and skin is very good, which makes phytosterol ester compatible with skin and good skin-fitting, and has an incomparable moisturizing and non-sticky skin feel, which can replenish the cholesterol of the intercellular cement component lost by the scalp and fill the cholesterol missing in the cell membrane; at the same time, due to its strong lipophilicity, it is not easily washed away by running water, and can be efficiently deposited on the surface of hair scales to moisturize hair. The molecular weight of phytosterol ester is between 700 and 1300 Da. If it is too large, the hair will feel sticky after deposition, and the shampoo cannot be made transparent. If it is too small, it will be easily washed away by running water and cannot play its role. The saponification value of phytosterol ester shall not be higher than 150 mgKOH / g. A high saponification value means that there are more unesterified free fatty acids remaining in this raw material, which are easy to precipitate and defoam and reduce viscosity in transparent shampoo, affecting the quality.

[0012] Furthermore, the amount of the sodium cocamidopropyl PG-dimethyl ammonium chloride phosphate added to the scalp nourishing and hair care composition is 0.01-3 parts, for example, it can be 0.01 parts, 0.02 parts, 0.03 parts, 0.04 parts, 0.05 parts, 0.06 parts, 0.07 parts, 0.08 parts, 0.09 parts, 0.1 parts, 1 parts, 2 parts, 3 parts or any range therebetween.

[0013] Sodium Cocamidopropyl-PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate is a biomimetic phospholipid structure derived from coconut. The surface of damaged hair is negatively charged. It has cationic properties and is highly compatible and adherent to the skin and hair, thus repairing damaged hair. The cell membrane is a phospholipid bilayer structure. This biomimetic phospholipid enhances the integrity of the cell membrane and reduces the invasion of irritants.

[0014] Furthermore, the amount of the rose hydrosol added to the scalp nourishing and hair care composition is 10-60 parts, for example, it can be 10 parts, 11 parts, 12 parts, 13 parts, 14 parts, 15 parts, 16 parts, 17 parts, 18 parts, 19 parts, 20 parts, 30 parts, 40 parts, 50 parts, 60 parts or any range therebetween.

[0015] Rose hydrosol is enriched with biologically active ingredients in natural roses, including essential oils, sugars, flavonoids, phenolic acids, proteins and other compounds. It has good antioxidant, moisturizing and other effects. It has a small molecular structure and is easily absorbed by the skin. It can replenish the natural moisturizing factors lost by the scalp and keep the scalp hydrated. At the same time, it can slow down the oxidative degradation rate of oil secreted by the scalp, reduce the further stimulation and inflammatory response of oil oxidation derivatives such as free fatty acids, malondialdehyde, and squalene oxide to the scalp, slow down scalp irritation and regulate water and oil balance.

[0016] Furthermore, the amount of the Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract added to the scalp nourishing and hair care composition is 0.01-5 parts, for example, it can be 0.01 parts, 0.02 parts, 0.03 parts, 0.04 parts, 0.05 parts, 0.06 parts, 0.07 parts, 0.08 parts, 0.09 parts, 0.1 parts, 1 parts, 2 parts, 3 parts, 4 parts, 5 parts or any range therebetween; the molecular weight of the Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract is ≤20000Da, for example, it can be 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000 or any range therebetween.

[0017] Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide is a kind of polyhydroxy polymer, with a main chain composed of bD-mannose and bD-pyranose glucose residues. Its polar groups can form hydrogen bonds with water molecules to strengthen the moisture retention of hair and scalp. Due to its high molecular weight and the exposure of part of the carboxyl structure at the residue site, it can form steric hindrance and electrostatic repulsion effects, reduce the residual anionic surfactants, reduce protein reaction denaturation, weaken the degradation of cornified desmosomes and cornified capsules, and protect the density and adhesion of the stratum corneum. Studies have shown that Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide also has the activity of increasing antioxidant enzyme activity and inhibiting lipid peroxidation, and enhancing endogenous antioxidant capacity; at the same time, ultra-low molecular weight Dendrobium polysaccharide promotes the expression of aquaporin 3 and the formation of hyaluronic acid in keratinocytes, achieving deep hydration, and by promoting the synthesis of intercellular collagen, it helps to quickly repair damaged skin and rebuild strong skin.

[0018] The relative molecular weight of Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide has a great influence on its activity. The larger the relative molecular weight, the larger the molecular volume, which is not conducive to entering the body across the membrane; the smaller the relative molecular weight, the easier it is to bind to the active site, while too small a relative molecular weight is not conducive to forming a polymeric structure. The present invention selects a Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract with a molecular weight of less than 20,000 Da, which is a fermented extract. The polyhydroxycarboxyl structure it has can bind to the exposed residue sites of proteins, provide steric hindrance, form a thin film that is light on the scalp, reduce further protein denaturation caused by surfactants, and at the same time have anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, maintaining the integrity of the keratin barrier.

[0019] In a second aspect, the above-mentioned scalp nourishing and hair care composition is used in the preparation of shampoo products, and the shampoo products include transparent system shampoo, shampoo gel or shampoo bubbles.

[0020] In a third aspect, a shampoo product comprises the above-mentioned scalp nourishing and hair care composition; the mass percentage of the scalp nourishing and hair care composition in the shampoo product is 10.03-73%.

[0021] Furthermore, the shampoo product comprises any one of a sulfate system, an amino acid system, a sulfonate system, and a carboxylate system, or a combination of two or more systems, preferably a sulfate system.

[0022] Furthermore, the shampoo product comprises, by mass percentage, 0.15-0.5% of a cationic conditioner, 10-30% of an anionic surfactant, 3-10% of an amphoteric surfactant, 0.02-0.1% of a chelating agent, 10.03-73% of a scalp nourishing and hair care composition, 0.5-4% of a thickener, 0.2-1% of a preservative, 0.01-1% of a pH regulator, 0.3-1% of a daily fragrance, 0-0.005% of a colorant, 0-5% of other functional ingredients, and the balance being deionized water.

[0023] Furthermore, the mass percentage of the cationic conditioning agent in the shampoo product is 0.15-0.5%, for example, it can be 0.15%, 0.16%, 0.17%, 0.18%, 0.19%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5% or any range therebetween; the cationic conditioning agent is selected from at least one of cationic cellulose, cationic guar gum, and polyquaternium salt; the polyquaternium salt is selected from at least one of polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67, guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-22, and polyquaternium-47. Preferably, the cationic conditioning agent is a combination of quaternary ammonium salt-10 and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, and the mass ratio of quaternary ammonium salt-10 to hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is 1:(0.1-10), for example, it can be 1:0.1, 1:0.2, 1:0.3, 1:0.4, 1:0.5, 1:0.6, 1:0.7, 1:0.8, 1:0.9, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8, 1:9, 1:10 or any range therebetween.

[0024] Further, the mass percentage of the anionic surfactant is 10-30%, for example, it can be 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 30% or any range therebetween; the anionic surfactant is selected from at least one of carboxylic acid derivatives, alkyl sulfate derivatives, sulfonic acids and sulfonates, phosphates, and fatty acyl amino acid salts; optionally, the anionic surfactant is selected from at least one of laureth-7 sodium citrate, laureth-6 carboxylate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and sodium cocoyl aminopropionate. Preferably, the anionic surfactant is a combination of sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, and the mass ratio of sodium lauryl sulfate to sodium laureth sulfate is 1:(0.1-10), for example, it can be 1:0.1, 1:0.2, 1:0.3, 1:0.4, 1:0.5, 1:0.6, 1:0.7, 1:0.8, 1:0.9, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8, 1:9, 1:10 or any range therebetween.

[0025] Further, the mass percentage of the amphoteric surfactant is 3-10%, for example, it can be 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10% or any range therebetween; the amphoteric surfactant is selected from at least one of betaine type, imidazoline type, and amino acid type; optionally, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from at least one of cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocamidoamphoacetate, disodium cocamidoamphodiacetate, and sodium lauryl aminopropionate. Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0026] Furthermore, the mass percentage of the chelating agent is 0.02-0.1%, for example, it can be 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1% or any range therebetween; the chelating agent includes but is not limited to EDTA-2Na and EDTA-4Na.

[0027] Furthermore, the mass percentage of the thickener is 0.5-4%, for example, it can be 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% or any range therebetween; the thickener is a conventional thickener in the art, and is not particularly limited, for example, it can be PEG-150 pentaerythritol tetrastearate, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, sodium chloride, cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, etc.

[0028] Furthermore, the mass percentage of the preservative is 0.2-1%, for example, it can be 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1% or any range therebetween; the preservative is a conventional preservative in the art and is not particularly limited, for example, it can be phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium benzoate, gluconolactone, benzoic acid, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, etc.

[0029] Furthermore, the mass percentage of the pH regulator is 0.01-1%, for example, it can be 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1% or any range therebetween; the pH regulator is a conventional preservative in the art and is not particularly limited, for example, it can be citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide, lactic acid, aspartic acid, etc.

[0030] Furthermore, the mass percentage of the daily-use fragrance is 0.3-1%, for example, it can be 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1% or any range therebetween; the daily-use fragrance is a conventional daily-use fragrance in the art and is not particularly limited.

[0031] Furthermore, the other functional ingredients include but are not limited to soothing agents, bulking agents, anti-dandruff agents, and antioxidants.

[0032] Optionally, the added mass fraction of the soothing agent is 0-5%, for example, it can be 0, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% or any range therebetween; the added mass fraction of the bulking agent is 0-2%, for example, it can be 0, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 2% or any range therebetween; The added mass fraction of the anti-dandruff agent is 0-1.5%, for example, it can be 0, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.5% or any range therebetween; the added mass fraction of the antioxidant is 0-0.1%, for example, it can be 0, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1% or any range therebetween. The soothing agent, fluffing agent, anti-dandruff agent and antioxidant are conventional materials in the art and are not particularly limited.

[0033] The preparation method of the above-mentioned shampoo product comprises the following steps:

[0034] (1) homogenizing all the deionized water and the cationic conditioning agent at room temperature for 3-5 minutes, adding part of the rose hydrosol and homogenizing for 2-5 minutes to obtain a mixed solution I;

[0035] (2) Mixed solution I is heated to 50-60° C., an amphoteric surfactant and a chelating agent are added, the temperature is raised to 80-85° C. with medium-speed stirring, an anionic surfactant is added, and the mixture is fully dissolved to obtain mixed solution II;

[0036] (3) Mixed solution II is cooled to 50-60° C., a nonionic surfactant and the remaining rose water are added, and stirred evenly to obtain mixed solution III;

[0037] (4) After the mixed solution III is cooled to 45° C., the remaining scalp nourishing and hair care composition, thickener, preservative, pH regulator, daily fragrance, colorant and other functional ingredients are added in sequence, and the mixture is stirred and mixed for 30-35 minutes before discharging.

[0038] Furthermore, in step (1), the portion of rose hydrosol refers to 20-70% of the total mass of the rose hydrosol.

[0039] Furthermore, in step (2), the medium-speed stirring rate is 20-35 rpm.

[0040] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0041] 1. The present invention provides a composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair. In view of the damage to the hair and scalp caused by surfactants, the components in the composition cooperate with each other and are efficiently deposited so that it can both condition the hair and protect the scalp, thereby achieving the effects of repairing the scalp barrier, alleviating scalp irritation, balancing water and oil secretion, and making the hair smooth.

[0042] 2. Plant sterol esters of specific molecular weight are added to the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair. The plant sterol esters can be solubilized by surfactants and quickly flocculated and deposited on the hair and scalp during the shampoo dilution stage. The bionic phospholipids have cationic charges and are easy to adsorb, which overcomes the shortcomings of current water-soluble oils, nano oils, synthetic oils, etc., which are not easy to deposit, have poor conditioning properties, are highly water-soluble, and do not protect the scalp. The composition is not only soluble in a transparent surfactant system, but can also replenish lost intercellular lipids, cell membranes, and hair lipids, enhance the integrity of the scalp stratum corneum barrier, achieve water-oil balance on the scalp, and make the hair moisturized, smooth, and shiny.

[0043] 3. Adding Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide of appropriate molecular weight as fermentation essence to the composition for nourishing scalp and protecting hair can form a thin film on the scalp, reduce further protein denaturation caused by surfactants, and at the same time have anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, maintaining the integrity of the stratum corneum barrier.

[0044] 4. Add rose water to the scalp care and hair care composition. The small molecule active ingredients in rose water provide endogenous and exogenous antioxidant and moisturizing properties to the scalp, thus preventing dry scalp.

[0045] 5. The scalp nourishing and hair care composition provided by the present invention can be used in various transparent shampoo products and has high safety and mildness. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0046] The following non-limiting examples can enable those skilled in the art to more fully understand the present invention, but do not limit the present invention in any way. The following content is only an exemplary description of the scope of the present invention, and those skilled in the art can make various changes and modifications to the invention of the present invention based on the disclosed content, and they should also fall within the scope of the present invention.

[0047] In the following specific examples, the chemical reagent information used is shown in Table 1 below:

[0048] Table 1

[0049]

[0050]

[0051] In the specific embodiments of the present invention, except for the above chemical reagents, other chemical reagents used are obtained through conventional commercial channels unless otherwise specified.

[0052] Example

[0053] A composition for nourishing scalp and protecting hair, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 0.01-5 parts of phytosterol ester, 0.01-3 parts of sodium cocamidopropyl-PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate, 10-60 parts of rose hydrosol and 0.01-5 parts of Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract;

[0054] Among them, the phytosterol ester is phytosterol oleate, with a molecular weight of 700-1300Da;

[0055] The molecular weight of Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract is ≤20000Da.

[0056] According to the above formula, the following composition is obtained, as shown in Table 2:

[0057] Table 2

[0058]

[0059]

[0060] Application Examples

[0061] A shampoo product, comprising, by mass percentage, 0.15-0.5% of a cationic conditioning agent, 10-30% of an anionic surfactant, 3-10% of an amphoteric surfactant, 0.02-0.1% of a chelating agent, 10.03-83% of a scalp nourishing and hair care composition, 0.5-4% of a thickener, 0.4-1% of a preservative, 0.01-0.2% of a pH regulator, 0.3-1% of a daily flavor, 0-0.005% of a colorant, 0-5% of other functional ingredients, and the balance of deionized water;

[0062] Among them, the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is composition 1-13 in Example 1.

[0063] The shampoo product is prepared according to the following method:

[0064] (1) homogenizing deionized water and a cationic conditioning agent at room temperature for 5 minutes, adding 50% of the total amount of rose hydrosol in the scalp nourishing and hair care composition, and homogenizing for 5 minutes to obtain a mixed solution I;

[0065] (2) Mixed solution I is heated to 50° C., an amphoteric surfactant and a chelating agent are added, the mixture is stirred and heated to 80° C., an anionic surfactant is added, and the mixture is fully dissolved to obtain mixed solution II;

[0066] (3) Mixed solution II is cooled to 50° C., a nonionic surfactant and the remaining rose water are added, and stirred evenly to obtain mixed solution III;

[0067] (4) After the mixed solution III is cooled to 45° C., the remaining scalp nourishing and hair care composition, thickener, preservative, pH regulator, daily fragrance, colorant and other functional ingredients are added in sequence, and the mixture is stirred and mixed for 30 minutes before discharging.

[0068] The following shampoo was prepared according to the above formula and preparation method, as follows:

[0069] Shampoo 1#

[0070] The composition comprises, by mass percentage, 0.12% of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 0.15% of polyquaternium-10, 6% of cocamidopropyl betaine, 0.1% of EDTA-2NA, 17% of sodium polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol ether sulfate, 2% of ammonium lauryl sulfate, 40.75% of the scalp nourishing and hair care composition (composition 1), 1.2% of industrial salt, 1.2% of CMMEA, 0.4% of phenoxyethanol, 0.4% of sodium benzoate, 0.5% of essence, 0.1% of citric acid, and the balance of deionized water.

[0071] Shampoo 2#

[0072] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 2, and the added amount is 19.5%.

[0073] Shampoo 3#

[0074] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 3, and the added amount is 48%.

[0075] Shampoo 4#

[0076] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 4, and the added amount is 54.5%.

[0077] Shampoo 5#

[0078] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 5, and the added amount is 63.5%.

[0079] Shampoo 6#

[0080] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 6, and the added amount is 60.13%.

[0081] Shampoo 7#

[0082] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 7, and the added amount is 5.73%.

[0083] Shampoo 8#

[0084] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 8, and the added amount is 3.5%.

[0085] Shampoo 9#

[0086] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 9, and the added amount is 63.4%.

[0087] Shampoo 10#

[0088] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 10, and the added amount is 63.3%.

[0089] Shampoo 11#

[0090] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 11, and the added amount is 63.5%.

[0091] Shampoo 12#

[0092] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 12, and the added amount is 63.5%.

[0093] Shampoo 13#

[0094] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that the composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting the hair is Composition 13, and the added amount is 63.5%.

[0095] Shampoo 14#

[0096] The difference from Shampoo 1# is that no scalp nourishing and hair care composition is added.

[0097] Test Example 1

[0098] Objective quantitative evaluation

[0099] 1. Test method: Measurement before use (D0): After resting for 30 minutes in the human efficacy evaluation room, use MoleMaxHD to take pictures of the local scalp area, and use TMnano, HYDRATIONPIN and SM815 to detect the scalp TEWL value, stratum corneum water content and surface oil content at the test site. Then, take a frontal photo of the subject's hair under a fixed light source, and measure the height of the subject's hair in the photo. The measured value is used as the baseline value (D0).

[0100] Use of test samples: A trained experimenter used the test samples (the above shampoo #1-14) to wash the subjects' hair and blow-dry it.

[0101] Immediate measurement after use (D0 T0): After the subject uses the test sample, use MoleMaxHD to take a photo of the local scalp area, take a frontal photo of the subject's hair under a fixed light source, measure the height of the subject's hair in the photo, and then use SM815 to detect the oil content on the scalp surface at the test site. Then, the test sample is distributed and the use method is instructed.

[0102] Each group has valid data of at least 30 people, and the data are measured after 14 days of use: the subjects will be revisited after 14 days of using the test samples, and TMNano and HYDRATIONPIN will be used to detect the D14 TEWL value of the scalp and the D14 stratum corneum water content at the test site.

[0103] The test of the same subject should be completed by the same instrument and the same tester. The test site should be kept consistent between the two test time points.

[0104] 2. Test results

[0105] 2.1 Analysis of TEWL value of scalp

[0106] The larger the TEWL value measured by TewameterTMNano, the more transepidermal water loss per unit time and per unit cross-sectional area, and vice versa. Therefore, the trend of decreasing TEWL value represents the recovery process of transepidermal water loss of barrier-damaged skin. By comparing the changes in the average TEWL value of the scalp before and after use, the effect of the product in reducing scalp water loss can be reflected. The more the average TEWL value at different revisit time points decreases compared with the baseline value before use (DO), the better the repair effect of the product.

[0107] The specific results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0108] Table 3

[0109]

[0110]

[0111] As shown in the table, compared with the baseline value before use (D0), the average TEWL value of the scalp showed a downward trend after using the product for 14 days. The decrease values ​​of shampoos 1-5# were all above 30%, and the decrease value of shampoo 6# was also 28.78%. The TEWL value change rate was high, and it was significantly different from shampoo 14# (without adding the composition) (P<0.01), indicating that the composition greatly improves the scalp barrier repair oil.

[0112] The amount of the composition in shampoo 7# is small, which is not enough to provide the necessary components to maintain the integrity of the gray brick structure of the stratum corneum, and the TEWL value change rate is lower than that of shampoo 1-6#. Shampoo 8-10# lacks rose hydrosol, dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract or phytosterol oleate, and the TEWL value change rate is significantly lower than that of shampoo 5#. It can be seen that the rose hydrosol, dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract, phytosterol oleate and other components in the composition cooperate with each other and have a synergistic effect.

[0113] The TEWL of shampoo 13# decreased by 21.31%, which is lower than 32.67% of shampoo 5#. The main reason is that the Dendrobium extract contains a large amount of polysaccharides, which have a large molecular weight and cover the skin surface, which is not conducive to entering the body across the membrane. Only a small part can penetrate deep into the epidermis. The smaller the molecular weight, the stronger the permeability, which is easier to bind to the active site, the more significant the repair effect, and the water loss rate through the epidermis gradually decreases. The molecular weight of the phytosterol oleate in composition 13 is higher, the less water-soluble it is, and the stronger the residue on the hair. At the same time, it is also better than the large molecular weight that cannot penetrate deep into the epidermis and has a poor repair effect.

[0114] Based on the above data, the scalp nourishing and hair care composition of the present invention can provide a repairing effect for people with damaged scalp barrier, which can be dry skin or oily skin, so as to restore the scalp to a healthy state, slow down the re-invasion of irritants, and improve the resistance of the scalp.

[0115] 2.2 Analysis of water content in the scalp stratum corneum

[0116] The greater the moisture content of the scalp stratum corneum measured by HYDRATIONPIN, the higher the moisture content of the scalp stratum corneum. By comparing the changes in stratum corneum moisture content in a specific area before and after use, the effect of the product on stratum corneum moisture can be reflected. The more the moisture content at the D14 return visit time point increases compared to the baseline value before use (D0), the better the improvement effect of the surface moisture content in the test area, indicating that the product is more effective in increasing the moisture content of the scalp stratum corneum.

[0117] The specific results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0118] Table 4

[0119] Test samples D0 moisture content D14 moisture content Moisture content (%) Shampoo 1# 57.66 80.46 39.54 Shampoo 2# 50.33 69.12 37.33 Shampoo 3# 56.41 76.64 35.86 Shampoo 4# 53.21 71.49 34.36 Shampoo 5# 49.58 66.53 34.18 Shampoo 6# 50.19 60.77 21.08 Shampoo 7# 48.36 56.50 16.83 Shampoo 8# 58.83 68.23 15.98 Shampoo 9# 55.45 67.45 21.64 Shampoo 10# 53.84 65.48 21.62 Shampoo 11# 54.61 66.61 21.97 Shampoo 12# 53.23 63.03 18.41 Shampoo 13# 50.1 60.52 20.80 Shampoo 14# 48.89 54.66 11.80

[0120] As shown in the table, compared with the baseline value before use (D0), the water content of the scalp stratum corneum showed an upward trend after using the product, all higher than the baseline value. The increase in the water content rate of shampoo 1-6# was higher than that of other groups, and the water content of shampoo 14# without any added composition ingredients was the lowest.

[0121] Shampoo 8# does not contain rose hydrosol, and the water content rate increases by 15.98%, which is significantly lower than 34.18% of shampoo 5#. This is probably because rose hydrosol contains small molecule amino acids, polysaccharides, and proteins, which can provide endogenous moisturizing factors. It also contains antioxidants such as vitamin E, carotene, and phenol derivatives to help the scalp resist oxidative stress. In order to avoid further stimulation of peroxides and cause barrier damage, rose hydrosol is compounded with plant sterol oleate and cocamidopropyl-PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate to further supplement intercellular lipids and repair cell membranes, and strengthen the tightness between cells. Low molecular weight Dendrobium candidum polysaccharide extract can not only supplement barrier lipid components to repair the barrier, but also promote the expression of aquaporin 3 and the formation of hyaluronic acid in keratinocytes, achieving deep hydration and solving the problem of skin sensitivity and itching caused by the reduction of barrier components.

[0122] Compared with Shampoo 5#, the increase in water content of Shampoo 11# is relatively low. The main reason is that the molecular weight of plant sterols is small and they are easily washed away by running water, and they cannot repair the brick wall structure of the stratum corneum.

[0123] Compared with shampoo 5#, the water content rate of shampoo 13# increased at a lower rate. This may be because the molecular weight of phytosterols is higher, the oil solubility is enhanced, the shampoo will become hazy and unstable, and it will also consume part of the surfactant, weakening the cleaning ability. At the same time, the residue of high molecular weight sterols on the hair and the residue on the skin surface lose balance, the residue on the hair is larger, and the residue on the scalp is smaller. The residue on the scalp plays a part of the film-forming role to prevent the internal moisturizing factor from further loss. However, due to the weak deep repair effect of the epidermis, the lipids between cells are still relatively loose. Therefore, in transparent shampoo, phytosterols with appropriate molecular weight are particularly important.

[0124] The high molecular weight Dendrobium polysaccharide extract is not easily transported across the membrane and bound to the active site, which weakens the expression of aquaporin 3 and cannot achieve the purpose of deep hydration. Therefore, the water content in shampoo 13# is not as good as that in shampoo 7# with a low molecular weight.

[0125] In summary, the composition can endogenously supplement moisturizing factors and at the same time enhance the water content of the scalp by improving the integrity of the barrier structure of the epidermis, thereby preventing the hair from becoming drier and itchier with each wash.

[0126] Test Example 2

[0127] Zein denaturation test

[0128] Prepare 10% aqueous solution of shampoo 1-14# as sample, take 50mL sample, add 2±1g of corn alcohol-soluble protein (Zein), and stir at 25℃ for 90min. Observe once every 10min~15min, and add Zein as needed to ensure that there is enough undissolved Zein in the solution. Then let it stand, filter it twice with filter paper, and determine the mass concentration of nitrogen in the filtrate by Kjeldahl method, which is recorded in mgN / L. Take another 50mL sample and do a blank experiment without adding Zein. Zein value (mgN / L) = mass concentration of nitrogen in the filtrate of the surfactant to be tested - mass concentration of nitrogen in the filtrate of the blank experiment. The nitrogen content is tested with reference to GB 5009.5-2016 "National Food Safety Standard Determination of Protein in Food". It is divided into 3 grades according to the standards shown in Table 5 below.

[0129] Table 5

[0130] Nitrogen content mass percentage (%) Judgment criteria ＞0.4 Strong stimulation 0.2-0.4 Low stimulation ＜0.2 No stimulation

[0131] Zein has a unique amino acid composition. Its molecules not only contain a large number of hydrophobic amino acids, but also contain a large number of sulfur-containing amino acids. However, it lacks charged acidic, alkaline and polar group amino acids. It contains a large number of α-helices formed by hydrogen bonding between the hydroxyl group on the peptide main chain and the imino group, so it has strong hydrophobicity. Therefore, Zein has a unique solubility and is almost insoluble in water. Zein is only soluble in water after being denatured. Zein has a higher nitrogen content and increases the nitrogen content in the solution. The difference in nitrogen content in the system before and after Zein dissolution (i.e., Zein value) is used to characterize the solubility of Zein in the system, and then the strength of the irritation of the system. The larger the Zein value, the more Zein is dissolved, and the greater the irritation of the surfactant system. The measured results are shown in Table 6 below:

[0132] Table 6

[0133]

[0134]

[0135] As shown in the table, compared with shampoo 14#, the irritation of shampoo 1-6# with the addition of the composition was greatly reduced, and the grade was non-irritating, and the effect of promoting zein dissolution was weak. The blank group shampoo 14# without the addition of the composition had the highest irritation and the greatest protein denaturation.

[0136] From the perspective of skin mechanism, sodium cocamidopropyl PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate + phytosteryl oleate + rose hydrosol can all enhance barrier integrity; the alcohol-soluble protein solubility of shampoo 12# and shampoo 13# is weakened, and they are also non-irritating. It is speculated that the Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract contains a large amount of polysaccharide structure, and the phytosteryl oleate has a high molecular weight, which can provide a certain shielding effect in space, and can significantly slow down the binding of surfactants to zein, thereby reducing the water-soluble microdomains exposed by the zein structure, and further protecting the stability of the protein's α-helix structure. However, the lower the better, because this is only an objective in vitro test, and it is necessary to make a comprehensive choice based on the appearance stability and washing feel of the shampoo.

[0137] Test Example 3

[0138] Dry combing performance test of isolated hair bundles

[0139] Take real human in vitro hair bundles for cleaning and sample preparation, and use chemical treatment to make the hair bundles chemically moderately damaged. Test the dry combability of the hair bundles, and divide the hair bundles into 14 groups according to the basic value, with 6 hair bundles in each group. Then use shampoo 1-14# for each group according to the corresponding group (1-14 groups), first wet the hair bundles, squeeze out excess water, apply the sample in an S-shaped manner after 1 minute, leave it for 2 minutes, and rub the hair bundles evenly from the roots to the ends with your fingers to make foam, leave it for 1 minute and rinse it clean. Finally, place the hair bundles in a constant temperature and humidity chamber at 21±1℃ and 50±5% humidity for 16-24 hours, and use the FibraOne hair multifunctional tester to test the dry combability of the hair bundles.

[0140] By measuring the dry combability of the hair bundle before and after treatment, the effectiveness of the test sample in hair care and improving combability can be characterized. The smaller the maximum combing force value, the easier the hair bundle is to comb.

[0141] The specific results are shown in Table 7 below.

[0142] Table 7

[0143] Test samples Maximum combing force before use / gf Maximum combing force after use / gf Maximum combing force difference / gf Shampoo 1# 27.25 9.74 17.51 Shampoo 2# 26.45 9.15 17.30 Shampoo 3# 27.73 10.46 17.27 Shampoo 4# 27.51 10.16 17.35 Shampoo 5# 27.46 10.06 17.35 Shampoo 6# 27.17 11.19 15.98 Shampoo 7# 27.43 13.92 13.51 Shampoo 8# 27.88 15.13 12.75 Shampoo 9# 27.36 13.68 13.68 Shampoo 10# 26.78 15.16 11.62 Shampoo 11# 27.55 16.04 11.51 Shampoo 12# 27.31 16.22 11.09 Shampoo 13# 27.95 14.03 13.92 Shampoo 14# 27.42 16.29 11.13

[0144] As shown in the table, the combing force difference after using shampoo 1-6# is significantly greater than that of shampoo 7-14#, that is, shampoo 1-6# is significantly better in improving hair combing performance. Shampoo 1-6# is a combination of sodium cocamidopropyl PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate, phytosteryl oleate, rose water and dendrobium polysaccharide extract, while shampoo 8-10# is a partial combination of them. No combination is added to shampoo 14#, which shows that its effect of improving hair dry combing performance is significantly weaker.

[0145] The difference between shampoo 11-13# and shampoo 5# is that the molecular weights of phytosterol oleate and dendrobium polysaccharide extract are not within the scope of this solution. It is obvious that the molecular weights of phytosterol oleate and dendrobium polysaccharide extract are too large or too small, and are less effective in improving hair combing performance.

[0146] Test Example 4

[0147] Chicken chorioallantoic membrane test

[0148] According to the SN / T2329-2009 standard for cosmetic eye irritation / corrosion test on chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane, the ability of the test substance to cause toxic changes in the chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane is tested to evaluate the potential eye irritation of the evaluated substance. This test uses the irritation scoring method for evaluation.

[0149] CAM preparation: Purchase 0-day-old chicken embryos, and when incubated to 9 days old, check and discard defective chicken embryos. Mark the location of the air chamber on the surface of the eggshell of a normal chicken embryo, peel off part of the eggshell to expose the white egg membrane; carefully remove the inner membrane with tweezers to ensure that the vascular membrane is not damaged.

[0150] Reaction time method: Take 0.3 mL of the above transparent liquid and drop it directly on the surface of CAM, observe the CMA reaction, and record the time when each toxic effect appears within 5 minutes.

[0151] Irritation score method: The test is conducted using the reaction time method. The irritation score (IS) is calculated using the formula (refer to SN / T2329-2009). Finally, the eye irritation of the test substance is classified according to the calculated IS value in accordance with Table 8 below.

[0152] Table 8

[0153] Stimulus score Irritation classification IS<1 Non-irritating 1≤IS<5 Mild irritation 5≤IS<9 Moderate stimulation IS ≥ 10 Strong irritant / corrosive

[0154] This test uses the characteristics of the intact, clear and transparent vascular system of the chorioallantoic membrane of the mid-stage incubated chicken embryo. A certain amount of the test substance is directly exposed to the chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane. After a period of action, the changes in the toxic effect indicators of the chorioallantoic membrane (such as bleeding, coagulation and vascular melting) are observed. These indicators reflect the changes in the morphological structure, color and permeability of the blood vessels and vascular networks, as well as the phenomena such as the denaturation of the chorioallantoic membrane protein and its degree of damage. Then a score is combined to evaluate the eye irritation of the test substance. The purpose of this test is to test the ability of the test substance to cause toxic changes in the chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane and evaluate the potential eye irritation of the evaluated substance. The specific results are shown in Table 9 below.

[0155] Table 9

[0156]

[0157]

[0158] As shown in the table, the IS scores of shampoos 1-6# are all between 1-5, which are evaluated as mild irritation; the IS scores of shampoos 7-14# fall in the range of 5-9, which are evaluated as moderate irritation. It is obvious that the combination of cocamidopropyl-PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate sodium, phytosteryl oleate, rose water and dendrobium extract has low irritation, while shampoos 8-14# lack some components or their molecular weight is not within the protection range, and their chicken embryo evaluation is moderate irritation. Among them, shampoo 14# does not add any combination, and its IS score is obviously high.

[0159] The shampoo prepared by using the composition in each embodiment of the present invention can repair the scalp barrier, relieve scalp irritation, balance water and oil secretion, and make hair smooth, that is, it can solve the technical problem to be solved by this application. Since the cationic conditioning agent, anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, chelating agent and other materials in the shampoo involve many choices, this application will not list them one by one. The selection of cationic conditioning agent, anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, chelating agent and other materials in the shampoo of the application example is only one or two of them as an example. On the basis of clarifying the technical concept of this application, those skilled in the art can infer that the materials listed in this application can achieve the above-mentioned effects.

[0160] The above description of the embodiments is to facilitate the understanding and use of the invention by those skilled in the art. It is obvious that those skilled in the art can easily make various modifications to these embodiments and apply the general principles described herein to other embodiments without creative work. Therefore, the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and improvements and modifications made by those skilled in the art based on the disclosure of the present invention without departing from the scope of the present invention should be within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A composition for nourishing the scalp and protecting hair, characterized in that: The invention comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 0.01-5 parts of phytosterol ester, 0.01-3 parts of sodium cocamidopropyl-PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate, 10-60 parts of rose hydrosol and 0.01-5 parts of dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract.

2. The composition for nourishing scalp and protecting hair according to claim 1, characterized in that: The molecular weight of the phytosterol esters is 700-1300 Da.

3. The composition for nourishing scalp and protecting hair according to claim 1, characterized in that: The molecular weight of the Dendrobium officinale polysaccharide extract is ≤20000Da.

4. Use of the scalp nourishing and hair care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in the preparation of shampoo products, characterized in that: The shampoo product comprises a transparent system of shampoo, shampoo gel or shampoo foam.

5. A shampoo product, characterized in that: A composition for nourishing scalp and caring for hair comprising the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

6. The shampoo product according to claim 5, characterized in that: The mass percentage of the scalp nourishing and hair care composition in the shampoo product is 10.03-73%.

7. The shampoo product according to claim 6, characterized in that The shampoo product comprises any one of a sulfate system, an amino acid system, a sulfonate system, and a carboxylate system, or a combination of two or more systems.

8. The shampoo product according to claim 7, characterized in that The shampoo product comprises, by mass percentage, 0.15-0.5% of a cationic conditioner, 10-30% of an anionic surfactant, 3-10% of an amphoteric surfactant, 0.02-0.1% of a chelating agent, 10.03-73% of a scalp nourishing and hair care composition, 0.5-4% of a thickener, 0.4-1% of a preservative, 0.01-0.2% of a pH regulator, 0.3-1% of a daily fragrance, 0-0.005% of a colorant, 0-5% of other functional ingredients, and the balance being deionized water.

9. The shampoo product according to claim 8, characterized in that The cationic conditioning agent is selected from at least one of cationic cellulose, cationic guar gum, and polyquaternary ammonium salts; the anionic surfactant is selected from at least one of carboxylic acid derivatives, alkyl alcohol sulfate derivatives, sulfonic acid and sulfonates, phosphate salts, and fatty acyl amino acid salts; the amphoteric surfactant is selected from at least one of betaine type, imidazoline type, and amino acid type.

10. The method for preparing the shampoo product according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: (1) homogenizing all the deionized water and the cationic conditioning agent at room temperature for 3-5 minutes, adding part of the rose hydrosol and homogenizing for 2-5 minutes to obtain a mixed solution I; (2) Mixed solution I is heated to 50-60° C., an amphoteric surfactant and a chelating agent are added, the temperature is raised to 80-85° C. with medium-speed stirring, an anionic surfactant is added, and the mixture is fully dissolved to obtain mixed solution II; (3) Mixed solution II is cooled to 50-60° C., a nonionic surfactant and the remaining rose water are added, and stirred evenly to obtain mixed solution III; (4) After the mixed solution III is cooled to 45° C., the remaining scalp nourishing and hair care composition, thickener, preservative, pH regulator, daily fragrance, colorant and other functional ingredients are added in sequence, and the mixture is stirred and mixed for 30-35 minutes before discharging.

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