Novel Zhangzhou Zhangzhou fabric and single-warp-beam production method thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of spinning, and discloses a novel camphor satin fabric and a single-warp-beam production method thereof. The upper and lower layers of fabrics of the gigging and flower-showing part and the non-gigging and flower-showing part are connected through binding warps, so that the upper and lower layers of fabrics form an integral fabric without layering. A single warp beam is adopted for production, and the warp tying position is not fixed. The upper and lower fabrics of the camphor satin gigging and flower-showing part and the non-gigging and flower-showing part are connected by the binding warps, so that the upper and lower fabrics are not obviously layered, and products such as later clothing are convenient to manufacture and are not easy to stitch slipping. The proportion of the basic warp and the binding warp of the upper-layer fabric and the lower-layer fabric of the gigging and flower-showing part is different from the proportion of the basic warp and the binding warp of the non-gigging part, so that the positions of the binding warp of the fabric in the gigging and flower-showing part and the non-gigging and flower-showing part are different, and the defective product that the fabric crepes due to different weaving shrinkage of the basic warp and the binding warp is avoided.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of fabrics, in particular to a novel Zhang satin fabric and a production method thereof using a single warp beam. Background Art

[0002] Zhang satin is a yarn-dyed jacquard pile fabric. It was once used by the royal family and was favored by the dignitaries of the time because of its crisp texture, dense patterns, bright luster on the plain parts and gorgeous appearance.

[0003] However, due to the complicated production techniques of Zhang satin and the large area occupied by the equipment, the method of manually inserting steel wires and then cutting the pile to raise the pile can only be done manually or semi-manually, which is labor-intensive, extremely inefficient and costly, restricting the demand of consumers. Therefore, the development of methods and equipment that can automate, produce modern Zhang satin with high efficiency will promote industrial development and meet the needs of consumers. The market prospects are broad and of great significance.

[0004] Traditional Zhang satin is a silk fabric with satin or variable twill as the ground and pile warp as the pattern. Modern Zhang satin products also have pure fiber or interwoven Zhang satin products. The warp direction is generally composed of two silk threads of different thicknesses arranged in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4. The thin filaments are called ground warps, which are interwoven with the weft to form the ground part. The thick warps are called pile warps, which are interwoven with a stainless steel wire to form a pile pattern. Therefore, when the fabric needs a pile pattern, the pile rod must be manually inserted into the weaving mouth according to the traditional weaving method. After weaving is completed, the pile warp must be manually ground or cut. The production efficiency is low and the labor intensity of the weavers is extremely high. Summary of the invention

[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a new type of Zhang satin fabric and a production method thereof using a single warp beam. The method is a non-warp pile warp raising and flower weaving method, which does not require a pile warp frame that occupies a large area, and does not require manual insertion of steel wire pile raising rods during weaving. Instead, coarse pile weft is used for flower display. The upper and lower fabric layers are completely connected by a connecting warp, and the upper and lower fabric layers are woven by a fully automatic method without obvious stratification.

[0006] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present invention provides the following technical solutions: a new type of Zhang satin fabric, comprising a pile-raised flower-showing part and a non-pile-raised flower-showing part, the upper layer of the pile-raised flower-showing part is a coarse pile weft flower-showing fabric, and the lower layer is a fine weft fabric; the upper layer of the non-pile-raised flower-showing part is a fine weft fabric, and the lower layer is a long floating long coarse pile weft fabric.

[0007] The upper and lower fabrics of the piled and flowered part and the non-piled and flowered part are connected by a binding warp, so that the upper and lower fabrics form a non-layered integral fabric.

[0008] Preferably, a single warp beam is used for production, and the position of the binding warp is not fixed.

[0009] The present invention also provides a method for producing a novel Zhangduan fabric using a single warp beam, comprising the following specific steps:

[0010] Step 1: Pull the basic warp and the connecting warp into a single warp beam, the total number of which is the sum of the basic warp and the connecting warp;

[0011] Step 2: According to the color of the raised and flowered part of the pattern, the color of the coarse weft pile is selected, and the color of the basic warp is determined by the color of the non-raised and flowered part of the pattern;

[0012] Step 3: Import the pattern into the weaving software, set the upper layer of the raised flower part and the lower layer of the non-raised flower part to plain weave with long weft and floating length or other weft long weft and floating length, set the ratio of the basic warp to the binding warp of the upper and lower fabrics of the raised flower part and the ratio of the basic warp to the binding warp of the non-raised flower part, and the two ratios are different, set the lower fabric of the raised flower part and the upper fabric of the non-raised flower part to satin, twill or other weaves, set the basic warp to the binding warp of the raised flower part and the non-raised flower part to different ratios, and set the ratio of coarse weft to fine weft, then lay the weave and combine the shuttle throwing and warp pulling tools of the software to form a complete production file to produce Zhangduan fabric.

[0013] Preferably, the arrangement ratio of the base warp to the binding warp is between 8:1 and 24:1, that is, the coarse pile weft floating length is longer, so that the pile at the flower display area is full, the three-dimensional effect is strong, and the color is pure.

[0014] Preferably, the D number of the basic warp is 1-9.5 times the D number of the connecting warp, so that the warp yarns in the flower-revealing part cover the weft yarns less, thereby making the fluff in the flower-revealing part fuller, with a strong three-dimensional effect and purer color.

[0015] Preferably, the arrangement ratio of coarse weft to fine weft is between 1:2 and 1:5, and the fluff at the flower-showing part is full, with a strong three-dimensional effect and pure color, which is suitable for fabrics of different thicknesses.

[0016] Preferably, the thickness ratio of the coarse weft to the fine weft is between 2:1 and 16:1, which is suitable for fabrics of different thicknesses.

[0017] Technical effects and advantages of the present invention:

[0018] The present invention utilizes a novel Zhang satin fabric and a single warp beam production method thereof; the upper and lower fabric layers of the Zhang satin piled and flowered part and the non-piled and flowered part are completely connected by a binding warp so that the upper and lower fabric layers have no obvious stratification, making it convenient to manufacture subsequent products such as clothing and not prone to cracking.

[0019] The ratio of the base warp to the binding warp of the upper and lower layers of the piled and flowered part is different from that of the non-piled part, so that the binding warp of the fabric is at different positions in the piled and flowered part and the non-piled and flowered part, so that the fabric will not produce defective products such as wrinkles due to the different weaving shrinkage of the base warp and the binding warp. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0020] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the cross-sectional structure of the fabric of the present invention.

[0021] Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of the top view of the structure of the upper layer of the flower-revealing part of the present invention.

[0022] In the figure: 1, longitude A; 2, latitude A; 3, longitude B; 4, latitude B. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] The following will be combined with the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention to clearly and completely describe the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0024] The present invention provides Figure 1-2 A new type of Zhang satin fabric shown in the figure includes a pile-raised flower-showing part and a non-pile-raised flower-showing part. The upper layer of the pile-raised flower-showing part is a coarse pile weft flower-showing fabric, and the lower layer is a fine weft weave fabric. The upper layer of the non-pile-raised flower-showing part is a fine weft weave fabric, and the lower layer is a long floating long coarse pile weft plain weave fabric.

[0025] The upper and lower fabrics of the piled and flowered part and the non-piled and flowered part are connected by a binding warp, so that the upper and lower fabrics form a non-layered integral fabric.

[0026] Furthermore, the basic warp is warp B 3, the connecting warp is warp A 1, the coarse weft is weft A 2, the fine weft is weft B 4, and warp A 1, weft A 2, warp B 3 and weft B 4 are interwoven in proportion to form a raised and flowery part and a non-raised and flowery part.

[0027] The present invention also provides a method for producing a novel Zhangduan fabric using a single warp beam, comprising the following specific steps:

[0028] Step 1: Pull the basic warp and the connecting warp into a single warp beam, the total number of which is the sum of the basic warp and the connecting warp;

[0029] Step 2: According to the color of the raised and flowered part of the pattern, the color of the coarse weft pile is selected, and the color of the basic warp is determined by the color of the non-raised and flowered part of the pattern;

[0030] Step 3: Import the pattern into the weaving software, set the upper layer of the raised flower part and the lower layer of the non-raised flower part to plain weave with long weft and floating length or other weft long weft and floating length, set the ratio of the basic warp to the binding warp of the upper and lower layers of the raised flower part and the ratio of the basic warp to the binding warp of the non-raised flower part, and the two ratios are different, set the lower layer of the raised flower part and the upper layer of the non-raised flower part to satin, twill or other weaves, set the basic warp to the binding warp of the raised flower part and the non-raised flower part to different ratios, and set the ratio of coarse weft to fine weft, then lay the weave, combine the shuttle throwing and warp pulling tools of the software to form a complete production file, and then produce Zhang satin fabric.

[0031] Among them, the arrangement ratio of basic warp to connecting warp is between 8:1-24:1, the D number of basic warp is 1-9.5 times the D number of connecting warp, the arrangement ratio of coarse velvet weft to fine weft is between 1:2-1:5, and the thickness ratio of coarse velvet weft to fine weft is between 2:1-16:1.

[0032] Embodiment 1:

[0033] The basic warp and the connecting warp are 600T / M, the twist of 200D / 96F polyester yarn is 1000T / M, the warp head pattern is 9000, the warp beam width is 150cm, and the warp beam is passed through the palm reed and other processes to complete the weaving preparation.

[0034] The coarse pile weft uses 7.5-count rayon chenille yarn, and the fine weft is 75D viscose filament. The pattern is imported into the weaving software, and the upper layer of the pile flower part is set to a plain weave with a coarse pile weft float length of 10, and the lower layer of the non-pile flower part is set to a plain weave with a coarse pile weft float length of 8. The lower fabric of the pile flower part and the upper layer of the non-pile flower part are set to eight satins and other tissues. The ratio of the upper and lower basic warps to the binding warps of the pile flower part is set to 10:1, and the ratio of the upper and lower basic warps to the binding warps of the non-pile flower part is set to 8:1. The ratio of coarse weft pile to fine weft is set to 1:3, and then the tissue is laid. Combined with the shuttle and warp pulling tools of the software to form a complete production file, it is input into the loom for production.

[0035] Embodiment 2:

[0036] The base warp and the binding warp are 800T / M, 75 / 36F polyester colored silk, the warp head pattern is 19680, and the warp beam width is 164cm. The warp beam is threaded with palm and reed, and the weaving preparation is completed.

[0037] The coarse pile weft uses 12-count polyester chenille yarn, and the fine weft is 100D viscose filament colored silk. The pattern is imported into the weaving software, and the upper layer of the pile flower part is set to a twill structure with a coarse pile weft float length of 19, and the lower layer of the non-pile flower part is set to a plain structure with a coarse pile weft float length of 15. The lower fabric of the pile flower part and the upper layer of the non-pile flower part are set to 13 satin structures. The ratio of the basic warp to the binding warp of the upper and lower layers of the pile flower part is set to 19:1, and the ratio of the basic warp to the binding warp of the upper and lower layers of the non-pile flower part is set to 13:1. The ratio of coarse weft pile to fine weft is set to 1:5, and then the structure is laid. Combined with the shuttle and warp pulling tools of the software to form a complete production file, it is input into the loom for production.

[0038] Embodiment three:

[0039] The basic warp is 1000T / M, 50 / 36F polyester colored silk, the warp head pattern is 21000 threads, the warp beam width is 168cm, and the warp beam is passed through the palm threading and reeding processes to complete the weaving preparation.

[0040] The coarse pile weft uses 15-count shiny diamond pile, and the fine weft is 300D polyester colored silk. Import the pattern into the weaving software, set the upper layer of the pile part to a twill weave with a coarse pile weft float length of 24, set the lower layer of the non-pile part to a plain weave with a coarse pile weft float length of 18, set the lower fabric of the pile part and the upper fabric of the non-pile part to a 7 / 1+9 / 1 twill weave, set the ratio of the upper and lower foundation warps to the binding warp of the pile part to 24:1, and the ratio of the upper and lower foundation warps to the binding warp of the non-pile part to 18:1, set the ratio of coarse weft pile to fine weft to 1:2, and then lay the organization. Combine the shuttle picking and warp pulling tools of the software to form a complete production file, and then input it into the loom for production.

[0041] Finally, it should be noted that the above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the aforementioned embodiments, it is still possible for those skilled in the art to modify the technical solutions described in the aforementioned embodiments or to make equivalent substitutions for some of the technical features therein. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A new type of Zhang satin fabric, including a pile-shaped flower-showing part and a non-pile-shaped flower-showing part, the upper layer of the pile-shaped flower-showing part is a coarse pile weft flower-showing fabric, and the lower layer is a fine weft weave fabric, the upper layer of the non-pile-shaped flower-showing part is a fine weft weave fabric, and the lower layer is a long-floating long coarse pile weft fabric, characterized in that: The upper and lower fabrics of the piled and flowered part and the non-piled and flowered part are connected by a binding warp, so that the upper and lower fabrics form a non-layered integral fabric.

2. A new type of Zhangduan fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: It adopts single warp beam production and the position of the connecting warp is not fixed.

3. A new type of Zhang satin fabric production method using a single warp beam, characterized in that: The specific steps include: Step 1: Pull the basic warp and the connecting warp into a single warp beam, the total number of which is the sum of the basic warp and the connecting warp; Step 2: According to the color of the raised and flowered part of the pattern, the color of the coarse weft pile is selected, and the color of the basic warp is determined by the color of the non-raised and flowered part of the pattern; Step three: import the pattern into the weaving software, set the upper layer of the piled flower part and the lower layer of the non-piled flower part to plain weave with long weft and floating length or other weft long weft and floating length, set the ratio of the basic warp to the binding warp of the upper and lower fabrics of the piled flower part and the ratio of the basic warp to the binding warp of the non-piled part, and the two ratios are different, set the lower fabric of the piled flower part and the upper fabric of the non-piled flower part to satin, twill or other weaves, set the basic warp to the binding warp of the piled flower part and the non-piled flower part to different ratios, set the ratio of coarse weft to fine weft, and then lay the weave and combine the shuttle throwing and warp pulling tools of the software to form a complete production file to produce the Zhangduan fabric as described in claims 1-2.

4. The production method of a new type of Zhangduan fabric using a single warp beam according to claim 3 is characterized in that: The arrangement ratio of basic warp to connecting warp is between 8:1 and 24:

1.

5. The production method of a new type of Zhangduan fabric using a single warp beam according to claim 3 is characterized in that: The number of D of the basic warp is 1-9.5 times the number of D of the connecting warp.

6. The method for producing a new type of Zhangduan fabric using a single warp beam according to claim 3 is characterized in that: The arrangement ratio of coarse weft to fine weft is between 1:2 and 1:

5.

7. The method for producing a new type of Zhangduan fabric using a single warp beam according to claim 3 is characterized in that: The thickness ratio of coarse weft to fine weft is between 2:1 and 16:1.

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