Multi-color brocade makeup rapier loom and method for weaving makeup fabric based on multi-color brocade makeup rapier loom

Abstract

The invention discloses a multicolor brocade makeup rapier loom which comprises an electronic jacquard machine arranged above the loom, a 24-color color selecting device fixed at a cloth fell position of the loom and a weft positioning structure, the weft positioning structure comprises three rows of perforated positioning plates which are arranged at equal intervals in the longitudinal direction, each row of perforated positioning plates is used for positioning eight-color wefts, and the weft storage device enables the 24-color wefts to penetrate through corresponding through holes of the perforated positioning plates to be connected with the 24-color color selecting device. The invention further discloses a method for weaving Zhuanghua fabric based on the weaving machine. According to the invention, the brocade Zhuanghua variety with 20-24 colors can be woven by a mechanical weaving machine; the brocade makeup flower fabric is woven by adopting a mechanical weaving machine, the effect is the same as that of a manually woven fabric, the weaving efficiency is greatly improved, and the weaving cost of the brocade fabric is reduced.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a multi-color brocade rapier loom and also relates to a method for weaving brocade fabrics based on the loom. Background Art

[0002] Yunjin weaving technique is an intangible cultural heritage of mankind. The most important one is the "Zhuanghua" variety of Yunjin, which requires the use of wefts of multiple colors and the "through warp and broken weft" weaving method. Yunjin Zhuanghua variety must have more than 8 colors of zhuanghua. Combined with the ground weft, there are at least 9 colors in the same weft during the weaving process. The characteristic of Yunjin is that each flower has different colors, which requires different weft colors in different areas. Therefore, only manually operated Yunjin Zhuanghua looms can make more than 20 colors to form Zhuanghua fabrics. The existing mechanized looms only have 12 colors, and it is impossible to form Zhuanghua fabrics based on mechanized looms. Summary of the invention

[0003] Purpose of the invention: The purpose of the present invention is to provide a multi-color brocade rapier loom, which can realize 20 to 24 color selection, solving the problem that conventional rapier looms can only meet 8 to 12 colors and cannot weave brocade fabrics; another purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for weaving brocade fabrics based on the above loom.

[0004] Technical solution: The multi-color brocade rapier loom described in the present invention includes an electronic jacquard machine arranged above the loom, a 24-color color selection device fixed at the loom weaving position, and a weft positioning structure; the weft positioning structure includes three rows of perforated positioning plates equidistantly arranged along the longitudinal direction, each row of perforated positioning plates is used for positioning 8-color wefts, and the weft storage device connects the 24-color wefts through the corresponding through holes of the perforated positioning plates and the 24-color color selection device.

[0005] Among them, the electronic jacquard machine of the multi-color brocade rapier loom is equipped with 10240 needles.

[0006] The horizontal distance between the 24-color color selection device and the weft positioning structure is 20 to 30 cm; the horizontal distance between the weft positioning structure and the weft storage device is 55 to 60 cm. The three rows of equally spaced perforated positioning plates can adjust the angle of the wire feeding process, thereby reducing damage to the yarn (mulberry silk weft).

[0007] The 24-color color selection device includes an arc panel and 24 color selection needles installed on the arc panel; each color selection needle is connected to a corresponding color weft. The 24 color selection needles are arranged in an arc shape, and the front end width H of the 24 color selection needles is 22-23 mm.

[0008] The 24-color yarns are led from the positioning plate to the pins of the color selection device. The arc-shaped color selection device must ensure that the yarns do not rub against each other and do not affect the entry into the color selection pins. At the same time, when any 24 color selection needles move downward during weaving (the downward stroke of the color selection needle is no more than 1 cm), they can smoothly enter the weft. Therefore, on the one hand, the arc panel of the color selection device needs to be tilted forward to form an angle of 10 to 10.5° with the vertical direction, and at the same time, the arc panel is tilted toward the positioning plate to form an angle of 15 to 15.5° with the horizontal direction. By controlling the front width H of the color selection needle, the angle between the arc panel and the vertical direction, and the angle between the arc panel and the horizontal direction, all 24 color yarns can be selected at a fixed shuttle time.

[0009] The radius of the outer arc contour of the arc panel of the 24-color selection device is 450 mm, and the radius of the inner arc contour is 290 mm.

[0010] The length of the loom from the warp end to the reel end is not less than 3 meters, and the length from the jacquard heald to the warp end is not less than 2 meters. In order to ensure that the mulberry silk on the loom is within a reasonable elongation range and the warp is not easy to break when the opening is greater than 12 cm, the warp length of the loom must be greater than 3 meters, that is, the length from the warp end to the reel end is not less than 3 meters, and the length from the jacquard heald to the warp end is not less than 2 meters, that is, the length of A is 2 meters.

[0011] Among them, a tension detection device for monitoring the tension of the warp is installed 1 meter away from the back of the loom and the jacquard heddle to ensure that the tension of the warp is 40±5CN / single warp. The warp jacquard opening needs to be opened 12cm. In order to ensure that the mulberry silk warp is continuous and weaving can run normally, a tension detection device is installed 1 meter away from the back of the loom and the jacquard heddle to monitor the tension of the warp.

[0012] The method for weaving brocade fabric based on the loom is specifically as follows: 24 yarns (wefts) of different materials and colors are inserted into the color selection device, and the ground structure and pattern structure of the brocade brocade fabric are woven according to the pattern on each weft:

[0013] The weaving method of the ground structure is: one color weft is used to be inserted twice (roots) to form a seven-piece satin structure with the warp; the pattern structure is woven on the ground structure, and the weaving method of the pattern structure is: based on the color required on the one weft, the corresponding color weft is selected from the remaining 23 colors of weft to be inserted, and one weft is inserted each time to interweave with the warp on the ground structure, and the interweaving part forms fourteen structures, and is only interwoven with the warp on the front of the fabric, and the part without pattern is all under the warp of the fabric and is not interwoven;

[0014] Each weft pattern of the embroidery fabric is woven in the above manner, and the desired embroidery fabric is finally obtained. That is, such a cycle corresponds to all the colors of one weft on the pattern, and all the horizontal colors of one weft on the pattern are woven into the fabric one by one by color separation.

[0015] Beneficial effects: Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following significant effects: the present invention replaces the fiber thread and mold and other structures in the Yunjin wooden loom with an electronic jacquard machine, and replaces the manual weft beating method with a rapier loom, thereby realizing the mechanized loom weaving color that meets 20 to 24 colors of Yunjin brocade varieties; the present invention adopts a mechanized loom to weave Yunjin brocade fabrics, which has the same effect as hand-woven fabrics, greatly improves the weaving efficiency, and reduces the weaving cost of Yunjin fabrics. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0016] Figure 1 It is a structural diagram of the arrangement from the warp shaft end to the reel end of the loom of the present invention;

[0017] Figure 2 It is a connection diagram of the weft storage device, the weft positioning structure and the color selection device of the loom of the present invention;

[0018] Figure 3 The diagram is a structural diagram of the arrangement of the color selection needles in the color selection device;

[0019] Figure 4 A side view of a curved panel mounted on a loom, with an angle of 10° to the vertical direction;

[0020] Figure 5 The top view of the curved panel installed on the loom, with an angle of 15° with the horizontal direction;

[0021] Figure 6 It is a schematic diagram of the structure of the ground structure and the grain structure;

[0022] Figure 7 A diagram of the weaving method for the ground organization;

[0023] Figure 8 This is a diagram of the weaving method of the pattern structure;

[0024] Fig. 9 A structural diagram for forming a large number of floating lines under the fabric (back);

[0025] Fig.10 This is a frontal structural diagram of the composite ground tissue and grain tissue. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0026] like Figures 1 to 5As shown, the multi-color brocade rapier loom of the present invention includes an electronic jacquard machine 1 arranged above the loom 3, a 24-color color selection device 5 fixed at the weaving position of the loom 3, and a weft positioning structure 6; the weft positioning structure 6 includes three rows of perforated positioning plates equidistantly arranged along the longitudinal direction, each row of perforated positioning plates is used for positioning 8-color wefts, the weft storage device 4 (coil) connects the 24-color wefts through the through holes corresponding to the perforated positioning plates and the 24-color color selection device 5 respectively, the wefts pass through the color selection needles of the color selection device 5, and the initial ends of the wefts passing through the color selection needles are fixed on the external rollers.

[0027] The warp density of brocade embroidery must be greater than 120 strands / cm, and the width of brocade embroidery is 80cm (the inner width of the fabric is 78cm, and the left and right sides are 1cm. Combined with the required warp density and width, the jacquard machine is at least 10,000 needles. Therefore, the jacquard machine of the multi-color brocade embroidery rapier loom of the present invention is equipped with 10240 pattern needles.

[0028] The horizontal distance between the 24-color color selection device 5 and the weft positioning structure 6 is 20-30 cm; the horizontal distance between the weft positioning structure 6 and the weft storage device 4 is 55-60 cm. The angle of the wire feeding process (the angle between the yarn and the color selection device) can be adjusted by three rows of equally spaced positioning plates with holes, thereby reducing the damage to the yarn (mulberry silk weft).

[0029] The 24-color color selection device 5 of the present invention comprises an arc panel 51 and 24 color selection needles 52 mounted on the arc panel 51; each color selection needle 52 is connected to a corresponding color weft. The 24 color selection needles 52 are arranged in an arc shape, and the front end width H of the 24 color selection needles 52 is 22-23 mm; the radius corresponding to the arc outer contour a of the arc panel 51 is 450 mm, and the radius corresponding to the arc inner contour b of the arc panel 51 is 290 mm. Figure 3 shown.

[0030] like Figures 4-5 As shown, the curved panel 51 of the color selection device 5 needs to be tilted forward to form an angle of 10° with the vertical direction, and at the same time, the curved panel 51 is tilted toward the positioning plate (positioning plate with holes) to form an angle of 15° with the horizontal direction.

[0031] Among them, the length (A+B) of the loom from the warp shaft end to the reel end of the present invention is 3 meters, and the length from the jacquard heald to the warp shaft end is 2 meters, that is, the length of A is 2 meters. In order to ensure that the mulberry silk on the loom is within a reasonable range of elongation, the warp is not easy to break when the opening is greater than 12 cm, so the warp length of the loom must be greater than 3 meters. A tension detection device 2 for monitoring the warp tension is installed at a distance of 1 meter from the jacquard heald behind the loom to ensure that the warp tension is 40±5CN / single warp. The warp jacquard opening needs to be opened 12cm. In order to ensure that the mulberry silk warp is continuous and can weave normally, a tension detection device is installed at a distance of 1 meter from the jacquard heald behind the loom to monitor the warp tension.

[0032] The main process of Yunjin brocade satin is: to realize the pattern structure on the satin ground, and the non-patterned area (ground) is not interwoven with the pattern. Therefore, the structure of Yunjin fabric is divided into ground and pattern structure. The ground is a pattern-free structure, that is, a seven-layer satin structure, and the pattern is the surface consolidation of the pattern, which is consolidation with a fourteen-layer structure; therefore, the brocade fabric is a combination of the two structures; the two fabric structures are as follows: Figure 6 shown.

[0033] The method for weaving brocade fabric based on the loom is specifically as follows: 24 yarns (wefts) of different materials and colors are inserted into the color selection device, and the ground structure and pattern structure of the brocade brocade fabric are woven according to the pattern on each weft:

[0034] The weaving method of the ground structure is: one color weft is used twice (roots) to form a seven-piece satin structure with the warp. Figure 7 As shown, a satin effect is formed on the surface; the pattern structure is woven on the ground structure, and the weaving method of the pattern structure is: based on the required color corresponding to the weft, the corresponding color weft is selected from the remaining 23 colors of weft to be inserted, and one weft (root) is inserted each time to interweave with the warp on the ground structure. The interwoven part forms fourteen structures, and is only interwoven with the warp on the front side of the fabric. The parts without patterns are all under the warp of the fabric and are not interwoven. Figure 8 As shown in the figure, each weft pattern of the embroidery fabric is woven in the above manner, and finally the desired embroidery fabric is obtained. After the fabric is woven, due to the small proportion of the surface pattern, a large number of floating lines are formed under the fabric (back), such as Fig. 9 As shown; the long floating lines behind these floating lines on the back of the fabric are cut off to reduce the thickness of the fabric caused by the multi-color.

Claims

1. A multi-color brocade rapier loom, characterized in that: The invention comprises an electronic jacquard machine (1) arranged above a loom (3), a 24-color color selection device (5) fixed at the cloth-feed position of the loom (3), and a weft thread positioning structure (6); the weft thread positioning structure (6) comprises three rows of positioning plates with holes arranged equidistantly in the longitudinal direction, each row of positioning plates with holes is used for positioning 8-color weft threads, and a weft storage device (4) connects the 24-color weft threads to the 24-color color selection device (5) by passing the 24-color weft threads through the corresponding through holes of the positioning plates with holes.

2. The multi-color brocade rapier loom according to claim 1, characterized in that: The electronic jacquard machine (1) of the multi-color brocade rapier loom is equipped with no less than 10,240 needles.

3. The multi-color brocade rapier loom according to claim 1, characterized in that: The horizontal distance between the 24-color color selection device (5) and the weft positioning structure (6) is 20 to 30 cm; the horizontal distance between the weft positioning structure (6) and the weft storage device (4) is 55 to 60 cm.

4. The multi-color brocade rapier loom according to claim 1, characterized in that: The 24-color color selection device (5) comprises a curved panel (51) and 24 color selection needles (52) mounted on the curved panel; each color selection needle (52) is correspondingly connected to a color weft thread.

5. The multi-color brocade rapier loom according to claim 4, characterized in that: The 24 color selection needles (52) are arranged in an arc shape, and the width of the front ends of the 24 color selection needles (52) is 22-23 mm.

6. The multi-color brocade rapier loom according to claim 4, characterized in that: The arc-shaped panel (51) forms an angle of 10 to 10.5° with the vertical direction, and the arc-shaped panel (51) also forms an angle of 15 to 15.5° with the horizontal direction of the loom (1).

7. The multi-color brocade rapier loom according to claim 4, characterized in that: The radius corresponding to the outer arc contour of the arc-shaped panel of the 24-color selection device (5) is 450-460 mm, and the radius corresponding to the inner arc contour is 290-295 mm.

8. The multi-color brocade rapier loom according to claim 1, characterized in that: The length of the loom from the warp beam end to the reel end is not less than 3 meters, and the length from the jacquard harness to the warp beam end is not less than 2 meters.

9. The multi-color brocade rapier loom according to claim 1, characterized in that: A tension detection device for monitoring the tension of the warp yarn is installed at a position 1 to 1.2 meters behind the loom and away from the jacquard harness to ensure that the tension of the warp yarn is 40±5CN / single warp yarn.

10. The method for weaving brocade fabric using a loom according to claim 1, characterized in that: Specifically, 24 yarns of different materials and colors are inserted into the color selection device, and the ground and pattern structures of the Yunjin Zhuanghua fabric are woven according to the patterns on each weft: The weaving method of the ground structure is: 2 wefts of one color are used to form a seven-weave structure with the warp; the pattern structure is woven on the ground structure, and the weaving method of the pattern structure is: based on the color required on the weft, the weft of the corresponding color is selected from the remaining 23 wefts of the same color, and one weft is used each time to interweave with the warp on the ground structure. The interweaving part forms fourteen structures, and is only interwoven with the warp on the front of the fabric. The parts without patterns are all under the warp of the fabric and are not interwoven; Each weft pattern of the zhuanghua fabric is woven in the above-mentioned manner, and the desired zhuanghua fabric is finally obtained.

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