A process for weaving viscose filament Hada fabric without sizing, including sizing agent, sizing solution, and sizing yarn.

Abstract

This invention discloses a non-sizing sizing agent, sizing solution, and non-sizing yarn weaving process for viscose filament Hada fabric; the sizing agent is composed of oxidized acetate starch and PVA-0588 in a weight ratio of (15-17):4; the sizing solution formed after gelatinization with water has a solid content of 2wt.% to 5wt.%; the non-sizing yarn weaving process for viscose filament Hada fabric includes: S1, preparing the sizing solution; S2, sizing the viscose filaments; S3, weaving the sized yarn to form Hada fabric; the viscose... The desizing agent and sizing solution for long-filament Hada fabrics are suitable for weaving viscose filaments into Hada fabrics using a desizing process. The strength and abrasion resistance of the sized yarn are significantly enhanced, resulting in superior mechanical properties, better wrinkle resistance, and less fabric deformation compared to traditionally sized fabrics. The fabric style is also more suitable for Hada fabrics. This desizing process is compatible with medium-low temperature sizing, saves energy, and reduces the discharge of desizing wastewater, which is of great significance for protecting the ecological environment of Tibet.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of desizing-free weaving technology, and in particular to a desizing sizing agent, sizing solution, and desizing-free yarn weaving process for viscose filament Hada fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Khatas are a distinctive Tibetan product with huge annual consumption. Currently, most Khatas on the market are made of polyester or polyester-cotton blends, which are inexpensive but difficult to degrade, causing serious damage to Tibet's fragile ecological environment. Therefore, developing biodegradable Khata products is imperative.

[0003] Viscose fiber, as a type of cellulose fiber, is completely biodegradable after disposal, making it suitable for the development of fully biodegradable khata products. However, direct weaving is difficult; the viscose filaments must first be sized to improve the abrasion resistance of the warp yarns before weaving. Currently, the three main sizing agents on the market are starch-based sizing agents, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) sizing agents, and polyacrylic acid sizing agents. Polyacrylic acid sizing agents are limited in their development due to their high cost and problems such as moisture absorption and re-adhesion. PVA, on the other hand, has good compatibility with starch and excellent sizing performance, and cannot be completely replaced at present.

[0004] Currently, there is a lot of research on new sizing processes, such as low-sizing-rate sizing. High sizing rates can lead to problems such as stiff and brittle yarn, poor sizing effect, and excessive sizing liquid consumption, which in turn affects subsequent weaving. Medium and low temperature sizing not only saves a lot of energy but also provides a more comfortable working environment for operators. Desizing-free process refers to the process where the warp yarn is sized and woven into a fabric without undergoing traditional desizing treatment, allowing for direct subsequent processes. Desizing-free process avoids the generation of desizing wastewater and saves energy.

[0005] Therefore, developing a non-sizing process for viscose filaments with low fineness suitable for Hada weaving is of great significance for Hada weaving and environmental protection. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The purpose of this invention is to provide a non-removable sizing agent and corresponding sizing solution for viscose filament Hada fabrics that solves the above-mentioned technical problems.

[0007] Another object of the present invention is to provide a non-sizing sizing yarn weaving process using the above-mentioned non-sizing sizing agent for viscose filament Hada fabric.

[0008] Another object of the present invention is to provide a Hada fabric woven using the above-mentioned non-sizing sizing agent for viscose filament Hada fabric and a non-sizing yarn weaving process for the non-sizing sizing agent for viscose filament Hada fabric.

[0009] Therefore, the technical solution of the present invention is as follows:

[0010] A non-removable sizing agent for viscose filament Hada fabric is composed of oxidized acetate starch and PVA-0588 in a weight ratio of (15-17):4, more preferably 4:1.

[0011] Preferably, the oxidized acetate starch is prepared by esterification and oxidation double modification using corn starch and tapioca starch as raw materials; wherein the corn starch and tapioca starch are a mixture in any proportion.

[0012] A sizing solution prepared from the above-mentioned non-removable sizing solution for viscose filament Hada fabric is prepared by adding water to the sizing solution to make the solid content of the sizing solution 2wt.% to 5wt.%; then stirring at 95℃ to 100℃ for 30min to 40min; and finally keeping warm at 60℃ to 65℃ for 30min to 40min.

[0013] The sizing effect of the non-sizing sizing agent for this viscose filament Hada fabric is better as the solid content increases, but the fabric will also be stiffer. According to experimental tests, when the solid content of the sizing agent is controlled within the range of 2wt.% to 5wt.%, the difference in sizing effect is not significant. Therefore, it can be adjusted according to the fineness of the viscose filament.

[0014] A desizing process for viscose filament Hada fabric using the above-mentioned sizing solution includes the following steps:

[0015] S1. Prepare the slurry;

[0016] S2. Sizing the viscose filament: The sizing temperature is set to 55℃~60℃, the drying room temperature is set to 55℃~60℃, the sizing speed is 20m / min~25m / min, and the pressure of the sizing roller is 0.2MPa~0.3MPa to obtain sized yarn;

[0017] S3. Weave the sized yarn into a Hada fabric: set the warp density to 300 threads per 10cm. -1 ~420 pieces (10cm) -1 The weft density is set to 200 threads per 10cm. -1 ~300 pieces (10cm) -1 .

[0018] Preferably, in step S1, the oil is a mixture of castor oil and castor oil polyoxyethylene ether in a weight ratio of 1:1.

[0019] Preferably, in step S2, the viscose filament is a viscose filament of 11 tex to 15 tex.

[0020] Preferably, in step S2, the sizing is performed using a single-dip, single-roll sizing method.

[0021] Preferably, in step S3, the density is set to 300 strands (10cm).-1 The weft density is set to 300 threads per 10cm. -1 .

[0022] Preferably, the above-mentioned non-sizing process for viscose filament Hada fabric further includes S4: using an organosilicon softening agent to soften the fabric obtained in step S3.

[0023] A Hada fabric woven using the above-mentioned viscose filament Hada fabric non-sizing process.

[0024] Compared with existing technologies, this non-sizing sizing agent and sizing solution for viscose filament Hada fabric is suitable for weaving viscose filament into Hada fabric using a non-sizing sizing process. The performance of the yarn after sizing with this sizing agent, such as strength and abrasion resistance, is greatly enhanced. This makes the non-sizing fabric superior in mechanical properties and wrinkle resistance compared to traditionally sized fabrics. The fabric is also less prone to deformation and its style is more suitable for Hada fabrics. Furthermore, this non-sizing sizing process conforms to the characteristics of medium and low temperature sizing, saves energy, reduces the discharge of desizing wastewater, and conforms to the development trend of green sizing, which is of great significance for protecting the ecological environment of Tibet. Attached Figure Description

[0025] Figure 1 These are polarized light microscope images of slurries prepared with different formulations in Example 1 of the present invention;

[0026] Figure 2 This is an electron microscope schematic diagram of the raw yarn in Embodiment 2 of the present invention;

[0027] Figure 3 This is a schematic electron microscope image of the sized yarn obtained by sizing with formula 2 in Example 2 of the present invention;

[0028] Figure 4 This is a schematic electron microscope image of the sized yarn obtained by conventional sizing treatment in Embodiment 2 of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0029] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments, but the following embodiments are by no means intended to limit the present invention.

[0030] Example 1

[0031] A non-removable sizing agent for viscose filament Hada fabric is formulated from oxidized acetate starch and PVA-0588 in the weight ratios shown in Table 1 below. The oxidized acetate starch is a composite modified starch provided by Guangxi Mingyang State Farms Co., Ltd., prepared from corn starch and cassava starch through esterification and oxidation dual modification of the mixed starches. Its infrared spectrum characterization results are: 3200–3400 cm⁻¹. -1 The absorption peak weakened significantly at 1730 cm⁻¹.-1 A distinct characteristic peak of C=O stretching vibration appeared at 1560 cm⁻¹. -1 There is a relatively obvious absorption peak; PVA-0588 (volatile content 4.1%) is a product provided by Tianjin Sindema Group Co., Ltd.

[0032] Table 1:

[0033]

[0034] The sizing agent for viscose filament Hada fabric prepared by the above five formulas is prepared as follows: 1) Add water to the sizing agent to make the solid content of the sizing agent 2wt.%; then stir at 95℃ for 30min to make the oxidized acetate starch completely gelatinized; finally, keep warm at 60℃ for 30min.

[0035] The degree of starch gelatinization in the slurries prepared according to the above five formulas was observed using a WY-630MS polarizing microscope; such as Figure 1 As shown in the figure, (a) to (e) are polarized light microscope images of the slurries prepared by formulas 1 to 5, respectively. In the polarized light microscope images of the five slurries, it can be seen that no polarization cross appears, which proves that the starch in the slurry has been completely gelatinized and the PVA has been dissolved.

[0036] The properties of the prepared slurry were tested, including apparent viscosity, transparency, and surface tension.

[0037] (1) Apparent viscosity of slurry:

[0038] The viscosity and viscosity stability of the slurry of the above five formulations were measured using an NDJ-79 rotary viscometer. The specific test method was as follows: the prepared slurry was kept at 60℃ for 30 minutes before the first measurement was taken, and then measured every 1 hour thereafter, for a total of 6 measurements. The specific test results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0039] Table 2:

[0040]

[0041]

[0042] The apparent viscosity of the slurries prepared according to each formula in Table 2 is expressed in mPs·s.

[0043] According to the test results in Table 2, the apparent viscosity of the five slurries is ≤2.2 mPs·S, and the apparent viscosity fluctuates by no more than 0.3 mPs·S with increasing heat preservation time, indicating good stability. The reason for this test result is that oxidized acetate starch contains ester groups, and partially alcoholyzed PVA contains a large number of ester groups. According to the principle of like dissolves like, the two have good miscibility, resulting in low slurry viscosity and good fluidity. Furthermore, as the content of PVA-0588 increases, the viscosity of the slurry gradually decreases, but due to the low solid content, the viscosity difference between the various formulations is small, and the slurry fluctuation is not significant.

[0044] (2) Slurry transparency:

[0045] The compatibility of the sizing solution affects its stability during the sizing process and can be represented by its transparency. Higher transparency indicates better compatibility among the components in the sizing solution, which is beneficial for maintaining stable sizing quality. Therefore, transparency is used to characterize the impact of compatibility on sizing quality.

[0046] The prepared slurry was cooled to room temperature, and the transmittance of the slurry was measured at 620 nm using a Thermo Evolution 201 UV-Vis spectrophotometer, with deionized water as a blank control. Measurements were taken every 1 hour for a total of 6 times. The specific test results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0047] Table 3:

[0048] project Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5 <![CDATA[Transmittance T0 / %]]> 84.116 86.034 88.942 90.251 92.974 <![CDATA[Transmittance T1 / % after 6 h]]> 83.325 84.910 87.221 88.368 92.132 ΔT 0.791 1.124 1.721 1.883 0.842

[0049] As shown in Table 3, the newly formulated slurries of all five formulations exhibited high transparency. This is mainly due to the fact that oxidized acetate starch undergoes macromolecular chain breakage due to oxidation, resulting in a lower degree of polymerization and molecular weight compared to ordinary starch. Consequently, it exhibits good miscibility with PVA-0588 and high transparency. Furthermore, the transparency gradually increases with the addition of PVA-0588. This is because the partial alcoholysis of PVA-0588 produces acetyl groups that promote the hydration of PVA-0588. This enhanced hydration capacity facilitates the formation of hydrogen bonds between PVA-0588 and water molecules, thus improving the slurry composition. The transparency of the slurry is high; however, on the other hand, in the long-term transparency test of the slurry, the smaller the change in the transparency value, the better the anti-settling property of the slurry. From the test results in Table 3, the slurries prepared by formula 1 and formula 5 have the best transparency, followed by the slurry prepared by formula 2; the slurries prepared by formula 3 and formula 4 have poor transparency, that is, the compounding ratio of the above two formulas is not suitable; when the ratio of PVA-0588 to composite modified starch reaches 1:1, the anti-settling property is the worst. It can be seen that the closer the ratio of starch to PVA-0588 is to 1, the worse the stability of the slurry.

[0050] (3) Surface tension of slurry

[0051] The surface tension of the sizing solution affects its permeability. Good permeability is a prerequisite for good adhesion, affecting the bundle properties of filament yarns and their mechanical properties, which in turn affects weavability. The permeability of the sizing solution to the fiber is closely related to its surface tension. The lower the surface tension, the better the sizing solution penetrates into the yarn and wets its surface, which helps to improve the cohesion between fibers.

[0052] The prepared slurry was cooled to room temperature, and its surface tension was tested using a JK99FM automatic surface tension meter. The average value was taken from three tests. The surface tension test results of slurries with different ratios are shown in Table 4 below.

[0053] Table 4:

[0054] project Surface tension / (mN / m) Formula 1 51.547 Formula 2 50.874 Formula 3 50.272 Formula 4 49.736 Formula 5 49.402

[0055] As can be seen from the test results in Table 4, the slurry formed by using single oxidized acetate starch as a slurry (Formula 1) has the highest surface tension. This is because pure starch slurry has high viscosity and flow resistance, resulting in poor penetration into the yarn interior and surface wetting effect of the slurry in Formula 1. As the compounding and addition ratio of PVA-0588 and oxidized acetate starch increases, the surface tension of the slurry gradually decreases. This is because the partially alcoholyzed PVA-0588 contains hydrophobic acetyl side groups. The more acetyl side groups there are, the more unevenly they are distributed within the molecule, and the lower the surface tension of the corresponding slurry.

[0056] In summary, based on the performance test results of the five sizing solutions, Formulas 2 and 5 show better performance than the other three formulas and are more suitable for sizing. However, the final selection of the sizing solution still needs to consider both the effects on yarn sizing and the woven products.

[0057] As a comparative example 1, in this specific embodiment, an attempt was made to form a slurry by compounding oxidized acetate starch and PVA-1799 in a weight ratio of 4:1. However, PVA-1799 has a high degree of polymerization, poor solubility, and high viscosity. Furthermore, the alcoholysis of PVA-1799 is 99%, resulting in almost no ester groups in this nearly completely alcoholyzed PVA. This leads to poor miscibility with oxidized acetate starch, and the slurry is prone to separation. Therefore, it is not suitable for use in combination with oxidized acetate starch in the desizing process for viscose filament khatas. In addition, the desizing process requires a low solids content and low viscosity in the slurry. If a slurry prepared with PVA alone is used for sizing, the sizing effect will inevitably be poor, and therefore it is also unsuitable for the desizing process.

[0058] Example 2

[0059] An ASS3000 fully automatic single-yarn sizing machine was used to sizing the warp yarns of viscose filaments. Five different sizing solutions prepared in Example 1 were used, with 0.5 wt.% of an oil lubricant added to each solution. Specifically, a single-dip, single-roller sizing method was employed, with the sizing temperature and drying oven temperature both set to 60°C. The sizing speed was 20 m / min, and the pressure of the sizing roller was 0.2 MPa. Sizing samples were obtained. The untwisted viscose filament used was 13.3 tex untwisted viscose filament provided by Jilin Carbon Valley Carbon Fiber Co., Ltd. The oil was a 1:1 mixture of castor oil and castor oil polyoxyethylene ether by weight. The castor oil was purchased from Tianjin Damao Chemical Reagent Factory, and the castor oil polyoxyethylene ether was purchased from Shanghai Maclean Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd.

[0060] As a comparative example 2, the same viscose filaments were sized for warp yarns using a conventional sizing agent. The sizing agent was a complex of oxidized etherified pea starch and corn starch and oxidized corn starch in a weight ratio of 4:1, and water was added to form a sizing solution with a solid content of 5 wt.%. The sizing process was carried out using a conventional sizing process, specifically, the sizing temperature was set to 95℃, the sizing speed was set to 20 m / min, and the pressure of the sizing roller was set to 0.2 MPa.

[0061] Five sized yarn products obtained from Example 2 and the sized yarn product obtained from Comparative Example 2 were tested, including the surface morphology and abrasion resistance and mechanical properties of the sized yarn. Prior to the abrasion resistance and mechanical properties tests, the samples were pre-conditioned and conditioned in a constant temperature and humidity environment (temperature (20±2)℃, humidity (65±4)%).

[0062] (1) Sizing surface morphology:

[0063] The surface morphology images of the raw yarn and sized filament yarn were obtained using a desktop scanning electron microscope (pHenom XL) to analyze the changes in their surface morphology.

[0064] like Figure 2 The image shown is an electron microscope image of the original yarn. As can be seen from the image, the original filament yarn has poor cohesion and a loose structure, resulting in low strength and poor abrasion resistance.

[0065] like Figure 3 The image shows an electron microscope image of the sized yarn obtained by sizing with Formula 2. It can be seen from the image that the yarn after sizing has significantly better bundle properties compared with the yarn before sizing. This indicates that the sizing solution forms a relatively uniform sizing film on the yarn surface, which improves the bundle properties of the sized filament yarn, and the sizing solution penetrates to form an adhesive layer.

[0066] like Figure 4The image shows an electron microscope (EM) image of sized yarn obtained through traditional sizing treatment. It can be seen from the image that the sizing film coverage on the yarn surface is higher, meaning the sizing rate is higher, but the bundled structure of the sizing filament yarn is not as good as... Figure 3 The effect shown.

[0067] Regarding the surface morphology of the sizing, the electron micrographs of the sizing obtained from the other four sizing formulations are similar to those obtained from other formulations. Figure 3 The effects shown are similar, both exhibiting improved bundle properties of the filament yarns after sizing, with the sizing agent penetrating and forming an adhesive layer.

[0068] (2) Abrasion resistance and mechanical properties of sizing:

[0069] The mechanical properties of filament yarn directly reflect the quality of sizing and affect the smooth progress of the weaving process. Good mechanical properties can reduce yarn breakage, decrease fuzz, improve weaving efficiency, and enhance the mechanical properties of the fabric. This viscose filament raw material has poor bundle properties and poor direct spinnability. Sizing is required to increase fiber bundle properties, reduce fuzzing during subsequent weaving, and further prevent yarn breakage, which would affect the weaving process.

[0070] Abrasion resistance was tested using a TM-200iA high-speed yarn friction cohesion tester under the following conditions: friction angle 116°, tension load 150g, and comb brush speed 120 cycles / min. Mechanical properties were tested using a YG061-1500 electronic single-yarn strength tester to measure the breaking strength and elongation at break of sized filament yarns. The spacing was set to 250mm, and the tensile speed to 250mm / min, following the standard GB / T 3916—2013 "Determination of breaking strength and elongation at break of single yarn in packaged textiles (CRE method)". The sizing rate was calculated using an alkaline desizing method. The sized yarn sample was boiled in a 2% sodium hydroxide solution for 10 minutes, then rinsed with clean water, dried, and weighed. Specific test results are shown in Table 5 below.

[0071] Table 5:

[0072]

[0073] As can be seen from the test results in Table 4, compared with the original yarn, the abrasion resistance and strength of the yarn were further improved after using five different sizing solutions. Among them, the single oxidized acetate starch as a sizing agent (Formula 1) had poor penetration. Neither esterification nor oxidative modification could change the brittle and hard ring structure of the starch macromolecular chain segments, which easily formed a hard and brittle sizing film on the yarn surface, affecting the yarn's strength and elongation. In contrast, PVA-0588 has good flexibility and regularity of macromolecular main chain and good film-forming properties. Therefore, oxidized acetate starch needs to be used in combination with PVA-0588 to demonstrate better sizing agent advantages.

[0074] According to the test results in Table 4, the sizing rate of non-sizing yarn is lower than that of traditional sizing yarn, mainly due to the lower solid content. Although the sizing rate of traditional sizing yarn is high, making its strength higher than that of non-sizing yarn, the elongation reduction rate of traditional sizing yarn is slightly worse, and the higher sizing rate makes the sizing film on the surface of the yarn thicker, resulting in a lower elongation at break.

[0075] In the slurries formed by formulations 2 to 5, as the proportion of PVA-0588 increases, the mechanical properties and abrasion resistance of the sized yarn show a trend of first increasing and then decreasing. This is because the carboxyl groups in oxidized acetate starch weaken the intermolecular forces of starch, improve the adhesion to viscose fibers, and the slurry film formed by esterified starch is more resilient, resulting in better mechanical properties and better sizing performance. However, the presence of a large number of ester groups in partially hydrolyzed PVA reduces the number of hydrogen bonds between hydroxyl groups and cellulose fibers, resulting in a lower sizing rate, a decrease in the strength of the adhesive layer, and a worse abrasion resistance of the yarn. In particular, the elongation at break of formulations 3 to 5 is too low, which does not meet the mechanical requirements of sizing.

[0076] Traditional sizing yarn has a higher strength than non-sizing yarn, mainly due to its higher sizing rate and higher strength, but its elongation reduction is slightly worse. The higher sizing rate results in a thicker sizing film on the surface of the yarn, which also reduces the elongation at break.

[0077] In conclusion, from the perspective of sizing effect, using formula 2 for sizing results in better sizing performance and is more conducive to subsequent weaving processes.

[0078] Example 3

[0079] The DSWa-02 digital small-sample warping machine was selected to weave the five types of sized yarns obtained in Example 2 above, achieving a warping length of 3m. The loom was a small-sample rapier loom with a ground weave design of one-up-three-down weft twill, and both warp and weft densities were set to 300 ends / 10cm. After weaving, the fabric was softened with an organosilicon softening agent to obtain viscose filament hada fabric. The softener used was an organosilicon softening agent, which was purchased from Shanghai Juanrui Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0080] As a comparative example 3, the weaving conditions were kept consistent, and the sized yarn obtained from comparative example 2 was woven. Unlike the desizing-free fabric of example 2, which does not require desizing treatment, the fabric of comparative example 3, which is made using the traditional sizing process, still needs to be desizing. The specific desizing method is alkaline desizing. The fabric is immersed in a 1 wt.% NaOH solution at a fabric ratio of 40 mL / g, boiled for 30 minutes, washed with clean water, and then dried. After desizing, the fabric is softened in the same way.

[0081] The fabrics woven in Example 3 and Comparative Example 3 were subjected to performance tests, including fabric specifications and mechanical properties, fabric wrinkle resistance, fabric bending properties, and fabric style. Before testing, the samples were pre-conditioned and conditioned in a constant temperature and humidity environment (temperature (20±2)℃, humidity (65±4)%).

[0082] (1) Fabric specifications and mechanical properties testing:

[0083] Fabric specifications include thickness and weight. Thickness is tested according to standard GB / T 3820—1997 using a YG141LA digital fabric thickness gauge with a presser foot area of ​​(2000±20) mm², a hammer load of 400 cN, and a pressing time of 10 s. Weight is tested according to standard GB / T 4669-2008 using a balance, accurate to 0.001. Fabric tensile properties are tested according to standard GB / T3923.1—2013 using a YG065 electronic fabric strength tester with a spacing of 200 mm and a tensile speed of 100 mm / min. Tear strength is tested according to standard GB / T3917.2—2009 with a spacing of 100 mm and a tensile speed of 100 mm / min. Specific test results are shown in Table 6 below.

[0084] Table 6:

[0085]

[0086]

[0087] As shown in Table 6, the traditional sizing process results in relatively lower weight and thickness of the fabric. This is mainly because alkaline desizing causes a certain degree of shrinkage in the weft yarns, leading to a tighter yarn arrangement and increased weight and thickness. In contrast, the non-sizing fabric woven in Example 3, due to the use of a light sizing process, has a lower sizing rate, resulting in less impact on weight and thickness, and giving the Hada fabric a lighter feel. Furthermore, since the mechanical properties of the sized yarn are higher than those of the original yarn, the non-sizing fabric has better mechanical properties than the traditionally desized fabric. The non-sizing process also avoids the decrease in yarn and fabric mechanical properties caused by desizing, thus improving the mechanical properties of the Hada fabric. Based on the comparison of the mechanical properties of the three groups of non-sizing fabrics, the non-sizing fabric woven with Formula 2 has the best mechanical properties, followed by Formula 1, and Formula 3 has the worst. This is mainly because the properties of the sized yarn in Formula 3 affect the properties of the fabric, making Formula 3 unsuitable for non-sizing of the warp yarns in Hada fabrics.

[0088] (2) Fabric wrinkle resistance:

[0089] Hada fabric develops creases during storage and use, which directly affect its appearance. Therefore, the fabric's wrinkle resistance was tested using a YG541L digital fabric wrinkle elasticity tester, referencing standard GB / T 3819—1997, and employing the vertical method. The specific test results are shown in Table 7 below.

[0090] Table 7:

[0091]

[0092] As shown in Table 7, the fabrics produced by the desizing process have a larger recovery angle, indicating that their wrinkle resistance is better than that of traditionally sized fabrics. This is mainly because the warp surface of the desizing fabric is covered by a sizing film, resulting in low frictional resistance between fibers and low-resistance slippage, which is beneficial for fiber recovery after deformation. The smoother the yarn surface, the better the wrinkle resistance, and the greater the warp stiffness, the less the fabric is deformed and the better the crease recovery. In contrast, after desizing, the frictional resistance between fibers in traditionally sized fabrics increases, resulting in poor recovery and wrinkle resistance. Based on the comparison of the wrinkle resistance of the three groups of desizing fabrics, Formula 1 has the worst wrinkle resistance, while Formula 3 is the best. This is mainly because the main chain of PVA is a carbon-carbon chain, which is a flexible chain. Similarly, Formula 2 is also within the suitable selection range. However, the ring structure of the starch macromolecule main chain is a rigid structure, making the wrinkle resistance of Formula 1 fabric even worse.

[0093] (3) Fabric bending properties:

[0094] Bending stiffness refers to the ability of a fabric to resist bending deformation; the higher the value, the stiffer the fabric. Based on this, the fabric bending performance was tested according to standard GB / T 18318.1—2009, using the LLY-01 fabric stiffness tester and the inclined plane method. Specific test results are shown in Table 8 below.

[0095] Table 8:

[0096]

[0097] As shown in Table 8, the unsizing fabric exhibits greater bending stiffness and better rigidity, but slightly lower softness. Since the fabric is not desizing, a sizing film remains on the warp yarn surface, increasing yarn stiffness and consequently affecting fabric firmness. However, the difference is small, mainly because light sizing is used, resulting in a low sizing rate and good film-forming properties, leading to a strong sizing film and minimal impact on fabric bending performance. The unsizing fabric, on the other hand, has suitable softness and is more suitable for Hada fabrics. Based on the bending performance comparison of the three groups of unsizing fabrics, the unsizing fabric of Formula 1 is stiffer, primarily due to the rigid ring structure of the starch macromolecule backbone, resulting in poorer bending performance. The unsizing fabrics of Formulas 2 and 3 are relatively soft, therefore these two formulas are more suitable for the unsizing yarn weaving process of this application.

[0098] (4) Fabric style:

[0099] Fabric style is a sensory perception of the physical properties of a fabric. Evaluation of fabric style involves many subjective factors, but the KES-FB fabric style meter can reflect the deformation process of a fabric under minor external forces, providing a more comprehensive and objective evaluation of fabric style. Therefore, the KES-FB fabric style meter was used to test the fabric style of two fabrics. The sample size was 20cm × 20cm. The fabrics were ironed flat before testing to avoid affecting the results. The specific test results are shown in Table 9 below.

[0100] Table 9:

[0101]

[0102] The smaller the average coefficient of friction and surface roughness, the smoother the fabric surface; the larger the compression work value, the fluffier the fabric; the smaller the shear stiffness value, the less prone to shear deformation; the larger the tensile linearity, the less prone to tensile deformation. As shown in Table 9, the surface of the unsizing fabric is smoother, the fabric is more tightly packed, and it has better resistance to deformation. This is because after desizing, the sizing film on the warp yarn surface is removed, making the yarn surface rough and affecting the surface properties of the fabric; traditional sizing processes result in fluffier fabrics that are more prone to deformation, thus the style of unsizing fabrics is more suitable for Hada fabrics. Based on the comparison of fabric style tests of the three groups of unsizing fabrics, the surface properties and fluffiness are relatively similar. Formula 1 fabric is less prone to deformation, but has a stiffer hand feel, making it unsuitable for the Hada fabric style; therefore, the unsizing fabrics of Formulas 2 and 3 have a soft hand feel and are less prone to deformation, making these two formulas more suitable for the unsizing yarn weaving process of this application.

[0103] In summary, based on the above-mentioned multiple performance tests on the sizing properties, yarn properties, and fabric properties obtained by the non-sizing yarn weaving process of the five formulations, and the analysis of the test results, formulation 2 is a sizing formulation that matches the non-sizing yarn weaving process of this application. Using this sizing material and matching the non-sizing yarn weaving process can produce the most satisfactory Hada fabric.

[0104] Example 4

[0105] Based on the research on the various properties of different formulation sizing agents in Examples 1 to 3 above, the sizing agent of formulation 2 has the best weaving effect when used for viscose filament weaving of Hada fabric. Therefore, the specific weaving process parameters for its use in Hada fabric weaving are further investigated.

[0106] The raw material is sized viscose filament, and the sizing solution is prepared according to Formula 2. The warping machine selected is the DSWa-02 digital small-sample warping machine, achieving a warping length of 3m. The loom selected is a small-sample rapier loom. The ground weave is a 1 / 3 weft twill, with two warp density designs: 300 warp ends / 10cm and 420 warp ends / 10cm. Each warp density corresponds to a different weft density, resulting in a total of 6 fabric designs. The fabric specifications are shown in Table 10.

[0107] Table 10:

[0108] Sample <![CDATA[End warp density / (ends per (10 cm)) -1 )]]> <![CDATA[Weft density / (ends per (10 cm)) -1 )]]> 1# 300 200 2# 300 250 3# 300 300 4# 420 180 5# 420 240 6# 420 300

[0109] The surface friction properties of six fabrics, i.e., the feel of the fabric surface, whether rough or smooth, were tested. Specifically, the KES-FB4 friction and surface roughness tester was used to test the fabrics and obtain three indicators: average coefficient of friction (MIU), average difference in coefficient of friction (MMD), and surface roughness (SMD). The specific test results are shown in Table 11.

[0110] Table 11:

[0111] Sample Average friction coefficient MIU Average difference in friction coefficient (MMD) Surface roughness SMD / μm 1# 0.1192 0.0118 3.9753 2# 0.0983 0.0078 3.6237 3# 0.0822 0.0063 2.4673 4# 0.1200 0.0106 4.6913 5# 0.1102 0.0095 3.6797 6# 0.0927 0.0072 1.6975

[0112] As can be seen from the test results in Table 11, fabric #3 has the smallest average coefficient of friction (MIU) and average difference in friction (MMD) values. Because its warp and weft densities are the same, its surface is the smoothest. Fabric #6 has the largest warp and weft density and the most interlacing points, so its surface roughness (SMD) value is the smallest, and the fabric feels smooth. It can be seen that the tighter the fabric, the smoother its surface and the better its flatness. According to the test results, fabric #3 is the most suitable for weaving Hada fabric.

[0113] The compression properties of six fabrics, i.e., the compression deformation properties of the fabric when compressed by a certain positive pressure, were tested to obtain the fabric's fluffiness, fullness, etc. Specifically, the KES-FB3 compression performance tester was used to obtain the results of three indicators: fabric compression linearity LC, compression specific work WC, and compression recovery rate RC. The specific test results are shown in Table 12.

[0114] Table 12:

[0115]

[0116] Compression linearity (LC) indicates the softness of the fabric; a higher value indicates a softer fabric. Compression specific work (WC) indicates the fluffiness of the fabric; a higher WC value indicates a fluffier fabric. Compression recovery rate (RC) indicates the fullness of the fabric; a higher value indicates better compression recovery. The test results in Table 12 show that fabric #4 has the highest values ​​for both compression linearity (LC) and compression specific work (WC), making it the fluffiest and softest. Fabric #6 has the highest warp and weft density, making it the stiffest. Fabric #3 has the highest compression recovery rate (RC), indicating the best compression recovery. It is evident that the lower the warp and weft density, the greater the difference, resulting in a fluffier and fuller feel.

[0117] The bending properties of six fabrics, i.e., the softness of the fabric, were tested. The bending properties of fabrics are very important; they should be moderate, neither too stiff to affect the hand feel, nor too soft. This test used a KES-FB2 bending performance tester to obtain two indicators: the bending stiffness B and the bending hysteresis moment 2HB. The specific test results are shown in Table 13.

[0118] Table 13:

[0119]

[0120] As can be seen from the test results in Table 13, bending stiffness B characterizes the stiffness of the fabric. Correspondingly, fabric #6 has the highest bending stiffness B value, indicating it is the most difficult to bend and has the stiffest hand feel, while fabric #1 has the softest hand feel. Bending hysteresis moment 2HB characterizes the recovery performance of the fabric during bending deformation; the smaller the value, the better the recovery performance. Correspondingly, fabric #6 has the smallest bending hysteresis moment 2HB value, indicating the best recovery performance, due to its higher warp and weft density. The other fabrics show little difference. Higher warp and weft density results in a higher bending stiffness B value, but a smaller bending hysteresis moment 2HB, indicating more interlacing points and a stiffer hand feel. Hada fabric requires a soft hand feel; fabric #1 is the softest, but its yarn density is too low, making it prone to slippage. Fabric #6 is too stiff and not suitable. To meet the needs of daily activities, the softness should be moderate.

[0121] The shear properties of six fabrics were tested. The most important indicator of fabric shear properties is shear stiffness G, which characterizes the fabric's ability to resist shear deformation. Shear deformation occurs when the fabric is subjected to a pair of opposite forces or moments in its own plane, causing a change in the warp and weft angles. This test used a KES-FB1 tensile-shear tester to obtain indicators such as shear stiffness G and shear hysteresis moment 2HG to characterize the fabric's shear resistance. Specific test results are shown in Table 14.

[0122] Table 14:

[0123]

[0124] The test results in Table 14 show that fabric #3 has the lowest shear stiffness G, indicating the best resistance to shear deformation, while #1 has the worst, indicating it is most prone to deformation. Fabric #6 has the lowest shear hysteresis moment and the best deformation recovery ability, while #1 has the highest, indicating poor formability. Higher warp and weft density generally results in better resistance to shear deformation, but conversely, lower warp and weft density leads to poorer recovery ability. High warp and weft density means tightly packed yarns with little room for movement, making fabrics less prone to deformation, but once deformed, they are also less likely to recover.

[0125] The tensile properties of six fabrics were investigated. The tensile properties of a fabric refer to the degree of deformation and elongation that occurs when a fabric is stretched in a certain direction by an external force, reflecting the fabric's elasticity and strength. The tensile properties of the fabrics were characterized by indicators such as tensile linearity (LT), tensile specific work (WT), and tensile recovery rate (RT). Specific test results are shown in Table 15.

[0126] Table 15:

[0127]

[0128] A higher tensile linearity (LT) value corresponds to a lower tensile recovery rate (RT) value, indicating that the fabric is less prone to stretching deformation but has poor elasticity. Table 15 shows that fabric #3 has the highest tensile linearity (LT) value, making it the least prone to stretching deformation. Fabric #4 has the lowest tensile linearity (LT) value, making it the most prone to deformation, but it also has the highest tensile recovery rate (RT) and the best elasticity. Specific tensile work (WT) characterizes a fabric's ability to resist stretching deformation; a higher value indicates greater fabric strength but a relatively poorer hand feel. Fabric #6 has the highest specific tensile work (WT) value, indicating the highest fabric strength, while fabric #4 has the lowest specific tensile work (WT) value, indicating the worst strength but a soft hand feel. This indicates that higher warp and weft density means less space for yarn movement, making the fabric less prone to stretching deformation. Fabrics #3 and #6, with higher warp and weft density, are even less prone to stretching and shear deformation.

[0129] In summary, considering the overall performance and application scenarios of the Hada, fabric #3 in Example 4 is the best, meaning that the warp density is appropriately set to 300 threads per 10cm in the specific weaving parameters. -1 ~420 pieces (10cm) -1 More preferably, 300 strands (10cm) -1 The appropriate weft density is set to 200 threads per 10cm. -1 ~300 pieces (10cm) -1 More preferably, 300 strands (10cm) -1 .

Claims

1. A non-removable sizing agent for viscose filament hada fabric, characterized in that, It is a compound of oxidized acetate starch and PVA-0588, with a weight ratio of (15-17):

4.

2. The non-removable sizing agent for viscose filament hada fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, Oxidized acetate starch is prepared from corn starch and tapioca starch through esterification and oxidative double modification.

3. A sizing solution prepared using the non-removable sizing agent for viscose filament Hada fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, Add water to the slurry to make the solid content of the slurry 2wt.% to 5wt.%; then stir at 95℃ to 100℃ for 30min to 40min; finally keep warm at 60℃ to 65℃ for 30min to 40min.

4. A non-sizing weaving process for viscose filament Hada fabric using the sizing solution as described in claim 3, characterized in that, The steps are as follows: S1. Prepare the slurry and add 0.5 wt.% oil agent to the slurry; S2. Sizing the viscose filament: The sizing temperature is set to 55℃~60℃, the drying room temperature is set to 55℃~60℃, the sizing speed is 20m / min~25m / min, and the pressure of the sizing roller is 0.2MPa~0.3MPa to obtain sized yarn; S3. Weave the sized yarn into a Hada fabric: set the warp density to 300 threads per 10cm. -1 ~420 pieces (10cm) -1 The weft density is set to 200 threads per 10cm. -1 ~300 pieces (10cm) -1 .

5. The non-sizing process for viscose filament Hada fabrics according to claim 4, characterized in that, In step S1, the oil is a mixture of castor oil and castor oil polyoxyethylene ether in a weight ratio of 1:

1.

6. The non-sizing process for viscose filament Hada fabrics according to claim 4, characterized in that, In step S2, the viscose filament is a viscose filament of 11 tex to 15 tex.

7. The non-sizing process for viscose filament Hada fabrics according to claim 4, characterized in that, In step S2, the sizing is performed using a single-dip, single-roll sizing method.

8. The non-sizing process for viscose filament Hada fabrics according to claim 4, characterized in that, In step S3, the density is set to 300 strands (10cm). -1 The weft density is set to 300 threads per 10cm. -1 .

9. The non-sizing process for viscose filament Hada fabrics according to claim 4, characterized in that, It also includes step S4, which uses a silicone-based softening agent to soften the fabric obtained from step S3.

10. A Hada fabric woven using the non-sizing process of viscose filament Hada fabric as described in any one of claims 4 to 9.

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