Timepiece component and method for manufacturing same

Abstract

The timepiece component (1) comprises: a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material; a first layer (12) of colored enamel applied to the substrate (11), in particular by transfer printing, in particular by pigmented decal, to the substrate (11); and a second facing layer (13), in particular a light-shielding second facing layer (13), which is at least partially applied to the first layer (12) of colored enamel.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a timepiece component. The invention also relates to a timepiece comprising such a timepiece component. The invention finally relates to a method for manufacturing such a timepiece component. Background Art

[0002] In the watch sector, and in particular in the sector of watch exteriors, there is a search for a decorated and durable bezel disc to be obtained in a reliable, robust and reproducible manner, that is to say a disc whose decoration can be varied for any design without limiting the choice of colour or its associations to obtain a monochrome or multicoloured result, which is resistant to ageing and to environmental damage (scratches, UV rays, etc.), without having to adapt the technical craftsmanship of the watch to achieve these objectives.

[0003] Documents CH707424A2 and CH707423A2 describe the production of components made of opaque technical ceramics (such as aluminium oxide or zirconium oxide) having a decoration formed by impregnation with metal salts on the face of the component visible to the user of the timepiece. Not all colour combinations are obtainable using the methods described.

[0004] Patent EP1734420B1 describes a transparent watch glass partially glazed on its lower face in order to help mask the system for assembling the glass on an intermediate housing. In this patent, protection is mainly claimed for a sealed housing comprising an intermediate piece and a bottom cover defining a housing closed by a glass made of a transparent material resistant to temperatures above 500°C, glued or welded at the level of a joining area at least partially covering the shoulder of the intermediate piece, wherein the inner face of the glass comprises an enamel deposit formed at the level of the joining area.

[0005] Patent CH320817 describes a rotating outer ring comprising a transparent disk, the lower face of which:

[0006] - both recessed so as to form hour markings (logos), said recesses being coated with a metal deposit which colours the hour markings,

[0007] - Another example is coating with varnish in order to give a colored appearance to the disk outside the recess.

[0008] The transparent disc allows the metallic color logo to be seen, contrasting with the color applied to its lower face. An example is given where the color is that of a varnish.

[0009] Document WO 2006 / 133810 A1 discloses a component and a method for obtaining it, the component comprising a transparent substrate decorated by a layer of enamel arranged in recesses. The variation in enamel shades described in this document is produced by variations in enamel thickness, which is controlled by the depth of the recesses in which the enamel is deposited (these recesses are on the face and / or the sides of the component). For a single composition of enamel, this produces a range of shades. Summary of the invention

[0010] The object of the present invention is to provide a timepiece component capable of improving components known in the prior art. In particular, the present invention proposes a timepiece component that can be decorated in a simple manner and that provides high durability of the decoration formed on the component, without requiring the rest of the timepiece to be designed with dedicated devices for forming and protecting the decorated surface.

[0011] The objects of the first aspect of the invention are defined by the following proposals:

[0012] 1. A timepiece component (1), comprising:

[0013] - a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material, and

[0014] - A first layer (12) of coloured enamel applied to the substrate (11) by transfer, in particular by chromo decal.

[0015] 2. A timepiece component (1) according to proposal 1, wherein the timepiece component (1) comprises a second finishing layer (13), in particular a light-blocking second finishing layer (13), applied at least partially to the first layer (12) of colored enamel.

[0016] 3. A watch component (1) according to Proposal 1 or 2, wherein the substrate is made of an inorganic material, such as technical ceramics, quartz, spinel, magnesium aluminate, AlON, YAG, cubic zirconia, mineral glass, polycrystalline alumina, glass ceramics, single crystal alumina, and / or the substrate has, at least partially, an actual linear transmittance greater than 60% or 70% or 80% or 85% for light with a wavelength of 550 nm.

[0017] 4. The timepiece component (1) according to any one of Proposals 1 to 3, wherein the base plate has a hardness greater than 800 Hv or 1000 Hv.

[0018] 5. The timepiece component (1) according to any one of Proposals 1 to 4 and Proposal 2, wherein the second finishing layer is:

[0019] - an enamel layer, in particular an enamel layer applied by transfer printing, and / or

[0020] - a metal base layer, in particular a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or

[0021] - Another coating layer, such as a paint layer.

[0022] 6. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 1 to 5, wherein the timepiece component (1) is an outer housing component of a timepiece (100), such as, in particular:

[0023] -Glass,

[0024] - bottom cover,

[0025] - Outer ring disc,

[0026] - wrist strap element, or

[0027] -middleware,

[0028] Alternatively, the timepiece component (1) is an internal component of a timepiece (100), for example, in particular:

[0029] -dial,

[0030] - flange, or

[0031] - A dial for displaying clock information.

[0032] 7. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein:

[0033] - the substrate (11) comprises a first surface (111) and a second surface (112), in particular the second surface (112) is parallel or substantially parallel to the first surface (111),

[0034] - the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) are applied to the first surface (111), and

[0035] The first surface (111), in particular the first layer and / or the second layer applied thereto, is visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11).

[0036] 8. A timepiece component (1) according to Proposal 7, wherein the base plate (11) comprises at least one second recess (15) formed on the second surface (112), in particular at least one second recess (15) formed by laser processing.

[0037] 9. Timepiece component (1) according to proposal 8, wherein the at least one second recess (15) is coated, in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

[0038] 10. The timepiece component (1) according to any one of Proposals 7 to 9, wherein the substrate (11) has an anti-reflection treatment on the second surface (112).

[0039] 11. A watch component (1) according to any one of Proposals 1 to 10 and Proposal 7, wherein the substrate (11) includes at least one first recess (14) formed on the first surface (111) after applying the first layer and the second layer, in particular at least one first recess (14) formed by laser processing.

[0040] 12. Timepiece component (1) according to proposal 11, wherein the at least one first recess (14) is coated, in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

[0041] 13. A timepiece component (1) according to proposal 11 or 12, wherein the at least one first recess (14) is such that the material area removed by ablation is arranged between the following surfaces at the level of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed:

[0042] - a surface forming the at least one first recess, in particular the lower surface (111) or the surface of the first layer (12) or the surface of the second layer (13), and

[0043] - a surface defining the bottom of said at least one first recess,

[0044] and varies in a direction in which the at least one first recess is formed,

[0045] and / or

[0046] The at least one first recess (14) is such that the area of ​​material removed by ablation at the level of any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed varies in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed.

[0047] 14. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 11 to 13, wherein the at least one first recess (14) has an area in the millimeter or micrometer or nanometer range, in particular at the level of the surface defining the bottom of the recess and / or at the level of the surface forming the recess.

[0048] 15. A method for producing a timepiece component (1), the method comprising the following steps:

[0049] - obtaining a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material, and

[0050] - Applying a first layer (12) of colored enamel to the substrate (11) by transfer printing, in particular by pigment decals.

[0051] 16. Method according to proposal 15, wherein the method comprises applying a second finishing layer (13), in particular a light-blocking second finishing layer (13), at least partially onto the first layer (12) of colored enamel.

[0052] 17. The production method according to proposal 16, wherein applying the second layer is:

[0053] - applying an enamel layer, in particular by transfer printing, in particular by pigment decals, and / or

[0054] - applying a metal base layer, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or

[0055] - Applying another coating layer, for example a paint layer.

[0056] 18. A production method according to any one of Proposals 15 to 17, wherein the production method includes the step of forming at least one first recess (14) on the first surface (111) of the substrate (11), in particular, the at least one first recess (14) is formed by laser processing, and / or the production method includes the step of forming at least one second recess (15) on the second surface (112) of the substrate (11), in particular, the at least one second recess (15) is formed by laser processing.

[0057] 19. A production method according to Proposal 18, wherein the step of forming at least one first recess and / or the step of forming at least one second recess is performed after the step of applying the first enamel layer (12) to the substrate (11), and in the step of forming at least one first recess and / or in the step of forming at least one second recess, the decoration formed by the first enamel layer is used as a mark, in particular as a processing mark.

[0058] 20. A production method according to any one of proposals 18 and 19, wherein the method comprises a step of coating the at least one first recess (14) and / or the at least one second recess (15), in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

[0059] 21. A timepiece component (1) obtained using a method according to any one of proposals 15 to 20.

[0060] 22. A timepiece (100), comprising a timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 1 to 14 and 21, in particular a timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 7 to 14, the timepiece component (1) being arranged so that the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) can be seen by a wearer of the timepiece (100) through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11).

[0061] According to a second aspect of the invention, the object is defined by the following proposal.

[0062] 23. A timepiece component (1), comprising:

[0063] - a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material

[0064] - a first layer (12) of colored enamel applied to the substrate (11), in particular by transfer, in particular by pigment decals, and

[0065] A second finishing layer (13), in particular a light-blocking second finishing layer (13), is applied at least partially to said first layer (12) of colored enamel.

[0066] 24. A watch component (1) according to Proposal 23, wherein the substrate is made of an inorganic material, such as technical ceramics, quartz, spinel, magnesium aluminate, AlON, YAG, cubic zirconia, mineral glass, polycrystalline alumina, glass ceramics, single crystal alumina, and / or the substrate has, at least partially, an actual linear transmittance greater than 60% or 70% or 80% or 85% for light with a wavelength of 550 nm.

[0067] 25. A timepiece component (1) according to proposal 23 or 24, wherein the base plate has a hardness greater than 800 Hv or 1000 Hv.

[0068] 26. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of Proposals 23 to 25, wherein the second finishing layer is:

[0069] - an enamel layer, in particular an enamel layer applied by transfer printing, and / or

[0070] - a metal base layer, in particular a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or

[0071] - Another coating layer, such as a paint layer.

[0072] 27. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 23 to 26, wherein the timepiece component (1) is an outer housing component of a timepiece (100), such as, in particular:

[0073] -Glass,

[0074] - bottom cover,

[0075] - Outer ring disc,

[0076] - wrist strap element, or

[0077] -middleware,

[0078] Alternatively, the timepiece component (1) is an internal component of a timepiece (100), for example, in particular:

[0079] -dial,

[0080] - flange, or

[0081] - A dial for displaying clock information.

[0082] 28. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 23 to 27, wherein:

[0083] - the substrate (11) comprises a first surface (111) and a second surface (112), in particular the second surface (112) is parallel or substantially parallel to the first surface (111),

[0084] - the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) are applied to the first surface (111), and

[0085] The first surface (111), in particular the first layer and / or the second layer applied thereto, is visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11).

[0086] 29. A timepiece component (1) according to proposal 28, wherein the base plate (11) comprises at least one second recess (15) formed on the second surface (112), in particular at least one second recess (15) formed by laser processing.

[0087] 30. Timepiece component (1) according to proposal 29, wherein the at least one second recess (15) is coated, in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

[0088] 31. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of Proposals 28 to 30, wherein the substrate (11) has an anti-reflection treatment on the second surface (112).

[0089] 32. A watch component (1) according to any one of Proposals 23 to 31 and Proposal 28, wherein the substrate (11) includes at least one first recess (14) formed on the first surface (111) after applying the first layer and the second layer, in particular at least one first recess (14) formed by laser processing.

[0090] 33. Timepiece component (1) according to proposal 32, wherein the at least one first recess (14) is coated, in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

[0091] 34. A timepiece component (1) according to proposal 32 or 33, wherein the at least one first recess (14) is such that the area of ​​material removed by ablation is arranged between the following surfaces at the level of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed:

[0092] - a surface forming the at least one first recess, in particular the lower surface (111) or the surface of the first layer (12) or the surface of the second layer (13), and

[0093] - a surface defining the bottom of said at least one first recess,

[0094] and varies in a direction in which the at least one first recess is formed,

[0095] and / or

[0096] The at least one first recess (14) is such that the area of ​​material removed by ablation at the level of any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed varies in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed.

[0097] 35. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 32 to 34, wherein the at least one first recess (14) has an area in the millimeter or micrometer or nanometer range, in particular at the level of the surface defining the bottom of the recess and / or at the level of the surface forming the recess.

[0098] 36. A method for producing a timepiece component (1), the method comprising the following steps:

[0099] - obtaining a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material,

[0100] - applying a first layer (12) of colored enamel to the substrate (11), in particular by transfer printing, in particular by pigment decals, and

[0101] - applying a second finishing layer (13), in particular a light-blocking second finishing layer (13), at least partially onto said first layer (12) of coloured enamel.

[0102] 37. The production method according to proposal 36, wherein applying the second layer is:

[0103] - applying an enamel layer, in particular by transfer printing, in particular by pigment decals, and / or

[0104] - applying a metal base layer, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or

[0105] - Applying another coating layer, for example a paint layer.

[0106] 38. A production method according to proposal 36 or 37, wherein the production method comprises the step of forming at least one first recess (14) on the first surface (111) of the substrate (11), in particular the step of forming at least one first recess (14) by laser processing, and / or the production method comprises the step of forming at least one second recess (15) on the second surface (112) of the substrate (11), in particular the step of forming at least one second recess (15) by laser processing.

[0107] 39. A production method according to Proposal 38, wherein the step of forming at least one first recess and / or the step of forming at least one second recess are performed after the step of applying the first enamel layer (12) to the substrate (11), and in the step of forming at least one first recess and / or in the step of forming at least one second recess, the decoration formed by the first enamel layer is used as a mark, in particular as a processing mark.

[0108] 40. A production method according to any one of proposals 38 and 39, wherein the method comprises a step of coating the at least one first recess (14) and / or the at least one second recess (15), in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

[0109] 41. A timepiece component (1) obtained using a method according to any one of proposals 36 to 40.

[0110] 42. A timepiece (100) comprising a timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 25 to 35 and 41, in particular a timepiece component (1) according to any one of proposals 30 to 35, the timepiece component (1) being arranged so that the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) can be seen by a wearer of the timepiece (100) through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11). BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0111] Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of an embodiment of a timepiece according to the invention, wherein the timepiece components are shown in section. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0112] The following will refer to Figure 1 One embodiment of the timepiece 100 is described in detail.

[0113] The timepiece 100 is, for example, a watch, in particular a wristwatch. The timepiece 100 comprises a component, which comprises:

[0114] - watch movements, and

[0115] -dial.

[0116] The assembly is intended to be mounted in a case or watch housing to protect it from the external environment.

[0117] The watch movement can be a mechanical movement, in particular an automatic movement, or a hybrid movement. Alternatively, the movement can be an electronic movement.

[0118] The timepiece 100, in particular an assembly or a housing or a dial or a movement, comprises a timepiece component 1. The timepiece component 1 may be, for example, an outer housing component of the timepiece 100, such as, in particular:

[0119] -Glass,

[0120] - bottom cover,

[0121] - Outer ring disc,

[0122] - wrist strap element, or

[0123] -middleware.

[0124] Alternatively, timepiece component 1 may be an internal component of timepiece 100, such as, in particular:

[0125] -dial,

[0126] - flange, or

[0127] - A dial for displaying clock information.

[0128] The watch component 1 comprises:

[0129] - a substrate 11 made of an at least partially transparent material, and

[0130] a first layer 12 of colored enamel applied to the substrate 11 , in particular by transfer, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11 .

[0131] A "colored enamel layer" refers to an enamel layer with a coloration visible to the naked eye, regardless of the color of the area. Thus, the color can be particularly achromatic (white, gray or black). Thus, the "colored layer" gives the watch component a hue as a whole or contributes to the hue of the watch component. The final color or resulting color of the watch component is then a combination of the color of the colored layer (adjusted by the color of the possible second finishing layer) and the color of the substrate (if the substrate is uncolored). The substrate is preferably uncolored, and the color of the watch component obtained is preferably the hue produced by the first enamel layer 12 and the possible second finishing layer 13. The substrate is preferably made of sapphire, uncolored single-crystal aluminum oxide, and the color of the watch component obtained is preferably the hue produced by the first enamel layer 12 and the possible second finishing layer 13.

[0132] Preferred are:

[0133] the timepiece component comprises a first layer 12 of coloured enamel applied to the substrate 11 , in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11 , by means of a pigmented decal, and / or

[0134] The timepiece component comprises a second layer 13 as a decorative finishing layer or supporting layer or light-shielding layer. The second layer 13 is at least partially applied on top of the first layer 12. The function of the second layer 13 is in particular to provide a backing for the colour of the coloured enamel.

[0135] "Finishing layer" means the second layer of the two stacked layers envisaged, i.e. the layer that completes the stack or the layer that covers the first layer. Where there is a first layer and a finishing layer, the first layer is between the substrate and the finishing layer. The function of the finishing layer is to act as a backing layer or opacifying layer, i.e. a layer that reduces or eliminates the transparency of the decoration formed by the colored layer, or more generally to provide a backing for the color of the colored first layer.

[0136] "Backing layer" refers to a layer that enhances or changes the color of the first layer.

[0137] "Opaque layer" or "light blocking layer" means an opaque layer, in particular an opaque enamel layer. The opaque layer reduces the transparency of the assembly it forms together with the structure to which it is applied, compared to the transparency of the structure alone without the opaque layer applied. The opaque layer eliminates the overall transparency of the assembly it forms together with the structure to which it is applied, regardless of the transparency of the structure. In fact, it is impossible to see through the opaque layer.

[0138] The component is advantageously arranged in timepiece 100 so that the wearer of timepiece 100 can see first layer 12 and / or second layer 13 through base plate 11. In other words, the wearer or user of the watch advantageously sees through the base plate the side of the first layer in contact with base plate 11. The component is produced to be arranged in this configuration.

[0139] The first layer and / or the second layer forms the decoration, that is to say preferably:

[0140] - a graphic element, or

[0141] - Pattern, or

[0142] - a combination of multiple graphic elements and / or patterns, or

[0143] - Complex design.

[0144] The decoration may be of a single color or may be formed of a plurality of colors.

[0145] The main function of the first layer and / or the second layer is decorative. The layer(s) may also well completely hide the elements located behind the timepiece component 1 so as to expose certain areas through transparency.

[0146] According to a variant, when timepiece component 1 is mounted in the rest of the timepiece, there is no element:

[0147] - in contact with the second layer 13, or

[0148] - In contact with the first layer 12 in the absence (possibly partial absence) of the second layer.

[0149] The timepiece component 1 has the overall shape of a substrate, and the substrate 11 constitutes most of the timepiece component 1 .

[0150] like Figure 1 As shown, the substrate 11 comprises a first surface 111 and a second surface 112, in particular parallel or substantially parallel first and second surfaces 111 and 112. Each of the first and second surfaces 111 and 112 can be of any kind, in particular a planar, truncated cone, partial annular, dome-concave or dome-convex geometric shape.

[0151] For example, in Figure 1In the embodiment of the present invention, surfaces 111 and 112 form the faces of the component. These faces are parallel. Alternatively, they can be non-parallel. Assuming that the watch component 1 consists of an outer ring disk, the first surface and the second surface are preferably two parallel truncated conical surfaces.

[0152] Note that Figure 1 In the embodiment, the first layer 12 has been applied to the first surface 111. The first layer may have been applied to the entire first surface 111 or only to a portion of the first surface 111, such as Figure 1 shown.

[0153] Also, note that in Figure 1 , the second layer 13 has been applied to the assembly formed by the first layer 12 and a portion of the first surface 111 of the substrate, facing the first surface 111 or in vertical alignment with the first surface 111. Like the first layer, the second layer can be applied in vertical alignment with the entire first surface 111, or only in vertical alignment with a portion of the first surface 111, such as Figure 1 shown.

[0154] It follows that, depending on the area of ​​the first surface concerned, in the material of the timepiece component, starting from the first surface 111 and proceeding towards the exterior of the component (perpendicularly to the first surface 111 ), it is possible to:

[0155] - encounters the first layer 12, then encounters the second layer 13, or

[0156] - Only the first level 12 is encountered, or

[0157] - Only the second layer 13 is encountered, or

[0158] - No layer is encountered (the substrate has no coating in the relevant area of ​​the first surface 111 ).

[0159] Since the substrate 11 is transparent, the first surface 111 , in particular the first layer 12 and / or the second layer 13 applied to the first surface, can be seen through the second surface 112 and the substrate 11 .

[0160] The substrate is preferably based on or made of an inorganic material, for example:

[0161] - technical ceramics,

[0162] -quartz,

[0163] - Spinel,

[0164] - magnesium aluminate,

[0165] -AlON (aluminum oxynitride),

[0166] -YAG (yttrium aluminum garnet),

[0167] -Cubic zirconia,

[0168] - Mineral glass,

[0169] - polycrystalline alumina,

[0170] - glass ceramics,

[0171] - Single crystal aluminum oxide (sapphire).

[0172] The first surface 111 preferably has a mirror-polished surface state and / or the second surface 112 preferably has a mirror-polished surface. However, at least the first surface 111 and the second surface 112 may have a rough surface state, for example a frosted surface state. This rough surface state can be obtained in particular by sandblasting and / or sanding and / or brushing; it can be produced by conventional tools and / or by laser. This makes it possible to give a matte appearance to the watch component 1. Alternatively, this makes it possible to give a matte appearance to at least a portion of the watch component 1 at the level of the portion of the watch component that produces the rough surface state.

[0173] The substrate is at least partially transparent. The substrate is preferably transparent and uncolored. More generally, the substrate can be made of a material that is at least partially transparent.

[0174] "At least partially transparent" means:

[0175] - the substrate comprises at least one transparent area, and / or

[0176] - At least one area of ​​the substrate or the entire substrate has a certain degree of transparency, some light is not transmitted through the substrate. For example, this includes a translucent substrate or a substrate whose "actual linear transmittance for light of wavelength 550 nm is greater than 60%, even 70%, even 80%, even 85%". In other words, there is at least one such position on the substrate in which at least 60%, even at least 70%, even at least 80%, even at least 85% of the light of wavelength 550 nm can pass through the substrate from the second surface to the first surface. According to the paper E6418 v1 by Rémy Boulesteix and Alexandre Maitre (10.07.2018) from "Les Techniques de l'Ingénieur" entitled "Céramiques transparentes-Caractéristiques générales et procédés de fabrication", transparency can actually be characterized by measuring the "actual linear transmittance" (RIT) of light. It is achieved using a spectrophotometer with a small aperture angle (about 0.5°). It corresponds to the ratio of the intensity of light transmitted through a material sample to the incident intensity. The RIT transparency depends on the thickness of the sample (x), the wavelength of the light (λ), and is given by the Beer-Lambert law:

[0177] RIT(λ)=[1-Rs(λ)].e -α(λ).x

[0178] where Rs are losses due to reflections at the two surfaces of the sample; they are approximately 0.14 to 0.16 and can be evaluated using the following formula:

[0179] Rs=2.R'(λ) / [1+R'(λ)]

[0180] Where, at vertical incidence, R' = {[n(λ)-1] / [n(λ)+1]} 2

[0181] where n is the refractive index of the material and α(λ) is the attenuation coefficient of the material, which takes into account optical losses caused by various sources of dispersion or absorption of light passing through the material.

[0182] For example, the substrate may be pigmented.

[0183] The manner in which the production method of the timepiece component 1 described above is carried out will be described below.

[0184] In general, the production method comprises the following steps:

[0185] - obtaining a substrate 11 made of an at least partially transparent material, and

[0186] - A first layer 12 of coloured enamel is applied to the surface of the substrate 11 , in particular by transfer printing.

[0187] Preferred are:

[0188] - applying the first layer 12 of colored enamel to the substrate 11 may be performed by applying a pigment decal to the substrate 11, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11, and / or

[0189] The method may comprise applying a second finishing layer 13 at least partially onto the first layer 12 of coloured enamel.

[0190] In other words, the solution that is the subject of this document relies on the specific use of an enamel deposited by means of a pigment decal (or enamel decal; the expressions "enamel decal" and "pigment decal" are considered equivalent) on a surface intended to be seen by the user of the watch through the substrate 11. This is preferably carried out in two stages:

[0191] - a first colored enamel layer visible through the substrate represents the decoration,

[0192] - The second finishing enamel layer eliminates the transparency of the decoration, or more generally, sets off the color of the first colored enamel layer. The second enamel layer is preferably opaque. The second enamel layer is preferably opaque and white.

[0193] This makes it possible to obtain a decorative and durable timepiece component (such as a bezel) in a reliable, robust and reproducible manner.

[0194] The second facing layer or decorative backing layer or opaque layer can be:

[0195] - an enamel layer, in particular an enamel layer applied by transfer, in particular an enamel layer applied by pigment decals, and / or

[0196] - a metal base layer, in particular a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or

[0197] - Another coating layer, such as a paint layer.

[0198] According to the invention, to produce a timepiece component 1, for example to produce a bezel, the procedure is preferably as follows:

[0199] - obtaining a transparent, preferably sapphire substrate,

[0200] - applying the enamel decoration by means of pigmented decals to the surface of the substrate intended to be seen through the substrate,

[0201] - Applying a facing or backing or opaque layer on top of the enamel decoration.

[0202] In contrast, in a conventional manner, in order to produce a timepiece component 1, in particular to produce a bezel,

[0203] - obtaining a substrate (generally opaque in the case of timepiece decoration),

[0204] - optionally applying a primer layer to the surface of the substrate which would be visible to the user in the absence of the coating layer on that surface,

[0205] - applying the enamel decoration onto said surface of the substrate, which may have been previously covered with a primer,

[0206] - Apply glaze (colorless transparent enamel) over the enamel decoration.

[0207] In the case of using the timepiece component in the outer case of a watch, it is found that the outer surface of the component may very frequently be subject to corrosion by the external environment. If the decoration is deposited on this outer surface, this may reduce the durability of the integrity of the decoration. The solution according to the invention provides a solution to this problem by exposing the exposed surface of the component to such corrosion, thereby protecting the decoration placed on a more concealed surface visible through the transparent substrate.

[0208] More specific uses are described in more detail below.

[0209] In a first step, a substrate 11 to be decorated is obtained. This substrate constitutes part of a timepiece component 1, preferably a majority of it.

[0210] The substrate must withstand the enamelling conditions. It must therefore withstand temperatures above 500° C., preferably above 750° C., so that the enamel can vitrify without suffering damage such as deformation or oxidation.

[0211] Furthermore, the substrate must preferably have a hardness sufficient to be able to resist wear. The material constituting the substrate preferably has a Vickers hardness greater than 800 Hv, even greater than 1000 Hv. This becomes even more important if the component is an external housing component that may be exposed to mechanical erosion.

[0212] In a second step, a first enamel layer is applied. For this purpose, a decoration is applied to the substrate 11, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11. The decoration is preferably applied by means of a pigment decal. Preferably, one or more pigment decals are applied to the substrate 11, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11, that is, the enamel layer is applied by transfer of one or more pigments (chromo). Possibly different pigments (e.g. pigments of different colors) can be applied to different areas of the first surface 111, juxtaposed or not, and / or can be at least partially stacked.

[0213] The decoration with a pattern determined by pigments is prepared in advance on the transfer paper, for example by screen printing, lithography, chromolithography. The pigments consist of a colored film deposited on the transfer paper, one face of which is intended to be in contact with the first surface 111 of the substrate 11 during transfer.

[0214] The film consists of enamel powder mixed with a polymer which creates its cohesion. The film can be transferred (or moved or positioned) from a transfer paper onto a first surface of a substrate to create a decoration.

[0215] For example, before or after the film is applied to the substrate (depending on whether the transferred pattern is on the front or back side), the pigment is applied by wetting in water in order to separate the film from the transfer paper. Then, water and any air bubbles that may be found between the substrate and the film are driven off, for example by means of an elastomeric scraper. It is then allowed to dry, in particular air dry.

[0216] Finally, the substrate on which the film is deposited is baked. The film consists of an enamel powder mixed with a polymer, and curing serves on the one hand to remove the polymer and on the other hand to vitrify the enamel. This curing can be carried out in an oven, in the open air, at high temperatures. The vitrification heat treatment is generally carried out at a temperature above 500°C, preferably above 750°C, for a few minutes, typically 15 minutes. After this step, the substrate is decorated by a colored enamel layer.

[0217] The coefficient of thermal expansion of the enamel used in the pigment must be the same as or very close to or compatible with that of the substrate, in order to guarantee proper retention (adhesion) and aesthetics (that is to say without cracking, crazing or peeling phenomena). The layer 12 is very thin and the tolerance of the difference in thermal expansion coefficients between this layer 12 and the substrate 11 is greater than in the case of depositing a thick layer (for example by conventional enamel deposition): thus, in the case of the pigment, a difference of up to 5%, even 10%, even 15%, even 20%, even 25% can be envisaged. After curing, the pigment layer generally has a thickness of about 5 to 20 μm, even 7 to 10 μm (which can correspond to a thickness of 40 to 80 μm when it is original). This is why it is considered thin compared to the conventionally deposited enamel layers, which are considered thick (generally, more than 100 μm, even more than 200 μm, even more than 300 μm thick after curing). Such thin pigments can be used because, for the same thickness, the color of the pigment is more saturated than the color of the enamel deposited in a conventional manner.

[0218] Alternatively, the enamel can be deposited by transfer, such as pad printing or direct screen printing, to form the decoration. Alternatively, the enamel can also be deposited in a conventional manner, such as by a brush.

[0219] According to the required aspects, the step of forming the first layer can be repeated. Thus, the first enamel layer constituting the decoration, in particular the colored decoration, can be a multilayer enamel. In this second step, curing is preferably performed between each application of an enamel layer onto the substrate 11, in particular onto the first surface 111 of the substrate 11 or onto a previously applied layer. Alternatively, in this second step, a single curing operation can be performed after all the enamel layers have been applied.

[0220] In an optional third step, a second layer 13 is applied. The second layer is preferably a facing layer or a backing layer or a light-shielding layer. The second layer is at least translucent and ideally light-shielding. The second layer is preferably a uniform white and / or opaque enamel layer. The second layer at least partially covers the decoration formed by the first layer formed during the second step.

[0221] As in the second step, curing is carried out after the application of the second layer, resulting in vitrification of the enamel and, if the enamel of the second layer was formed using pigments, possibly resulting in the removal of polymer.

[0222] For the reasons mentioned above, the coefficient of thermal expansion of the enamel used for the second layer 13 must be the same or very close or compatible with that of the layer on which it is deposited. For the combination of thin layers 12 and 13, the tolerance of the difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion between these layers and the substrate 11 is greater than in the case of depositing thick layers, which offers more possibilities in terms of adhesion and aesthetics.

[0223] This second layer or finishing layer 13 is preferably applied by transfer, in particular by pigment decals, as is the case with the decoration carried out in the second step.

[0224] Alternatively, the second layer 13 can also be applied by other techniques (pad printing, brush, screen printing, etc.).

[0225] This third step can be performed according to different variants:

[0226] - The second layer can be any color. Any enamel color can be envisioned. The color of the second layer can differ depending on where it is applied on the decoration and / or on the substrate.

[0227] - The opacity of the second layer can vary: depending on the nature of the finishing layer or layers, different opacity levels can be envisaged, from semi-transparent to completely opaque. Depending on where the finishing layer is applied on the decoration and on the substrate, the target opacity can also be different.

[0228] The chemical nature of the finishing layer can vary: any kind of inorganic material that meets the criteria of opacity and resistance to environmental stresses can be envisaged. The chemical nature of the finishing layer can also differ depending on where it is applied on the decoration. For example:

[0229] *Enamel filled with luminescent zirconium oxide powder or another luminescent inorganic material, or

[0230] *Metalized, or

[0231] * a metal-based layer, in particular a nitride, deposited, for example, by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition), ALD (Atomic Layer Deposition), PLD (Pulsed Laser Deposition) or any other suitable process,

[0232] Can be used as a finishing layer.

[0233] -Thus, depending on the nature of the layer, its thickness, the target level of precision (in terms of position, thickness, distribution, etc.), the method of applying the finishing layer can be by means of transfer, brush, screen printing, PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, etc.

[0234] - The finishing layer is positioned at least at some of the locations decorated during the second step.

[0235] - The distribution of the finishing layer may vary on the first surface 111:

[0236] * The finishing layer may be positioned only on the site of the decoration during the second step, in which case it may be applied to the whole or part of the decoration,

[0237] * The facing layer may alternatively be positioned at locations that were not decorated during the second step, in which case it may be at some or all of the undecorated locations.

[0238] -The thickness of the finishing layer can vary:

[0239] * The thickness may define its opacity level, which may be chosen depending on where it is applied,

[0240] *This thickness can adjust the color tone produced by the stacking of the first layer 12 and the second layer 13.

[0241] Depending on how the method is carried out, applying the second layer can be:

[0242] - applying an enamel layer, in particular by transfer printing, in particular by pigment decals, and / or

[0243] - applying a metal base layer, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or

[0244] - Applying another coating layer, such as a paint layer.

[0245] Many variant embodiments are conceivable. In particular, one or more recesses may be formed on the first surface 111 of the timepiece component, and / or one or more recesses may be formed on the second surface 112 of the timepiece component.

[0246] One or more recesses on the first surface and / or the second surface may be formed before the second step and the third step, and / or

[0247] One or more recesses on the first surface and / or the second surface may be produced between the second step and the third step described above, and / or

[0248] One or more recesses on the first surface and / or the second surface may be formed after the second step and the third step described above.

[0249] When a recess is formed at the level of the first surface after curing the first layer, the recess may affect:

[0250] - only part of the thickness of the first layer, or

[0251] - the entire thickness of the first layer, or

[0252] - The entire thickness of the first layer and part of the thickness of the substrate 11 .

[0253] When a recess is formed at the level of the first surface after forming the first layer and the second layer, the recess may affect:

[0254] - only part of the thickness of the second layer, or

[0255] - the entire thickness of the second layer, or

[0256] - the entire thickness of the second layer and part of the thickness of the first layer, or

[0257] - the entire thickness of the second layer and the entire thickness of the first layer, or

[0258] - the entire thickness of the second layer and the entire thickness of the first layer and part of the thickness of the substrate 11 .

[0259] Thus, according to a variant embodiment, at least one first recess 14 may be formed on the first surface 111, in particular by laser processing, and / or at least one second recess 15 may be formed on the second surface 112, in particular by laser processing. The method preferably comprises a step of coating at least one first recess 14 and / or at least one recess 15 with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

[0260] The recess may naturally have any shape or geometry.

[0261] In particular, the thickness of the material machined to form the recess may be the same regardless of the location of the recess. Thus, the depth of the recess may be constant, and the distance separating the following surfaces (measured perpendicular to the surface forming the recess) may be the same and correspond to the depth of the recess regardless of the location of the recess:

[0262] - a surface forming the recess (which may be the lower surface 111 , just like the surface 112 , or the surface of the layer 12 or the surface of the layer 13 ),

[0263] - the surface defining the bottom of the recess,

[0264] Alternatively, the depth of the recess may vary, that is to say may vary depending on one or more positions of the relevant recess. In particular, the height (or depth) of the side or wall defining the profile of the recess may vary and is therefore not necessarily constant. Furthermore, the surface defining the bottom of the recess is therefore not necessarily parallel to the surface forming the recess.

[0265] The above-mentioned side or wall can be at a (constant or variable) angle of inclination with, for example, the surface forming the recess and / or with the surface defining the bottom of the recess. In other words, the angle between:

[0266] - the direction in which the recess is formed, and

[0267] -The normal of the surface that formed it.

[0268] More generally, the area of ​​material processed or removed by ablation at the level of any plane perpendicular to the direction in which the recess is formed is arranged between the following surfaces:

[0269] a surface forming the recess (which may be the lower surface 111 , just like the surface 112 , or the surface of the layer 12 or the surface of the layer 13 ), and

[0270] - the surface defining the bottom of the recess,

[0271] It may be constant or not constant, depending on the relative position of the plane between the surface forming the recess and the surface defining the bottom of the recess. In other words, the area of ​​material removed by ablation at the level of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the recess is formed, arranged between the surface forming the recess and the surface defining the bottom of the recess, may vary depending on the direction in which the recess is formed. In addition, the area of ​​material removed by ablation at the level of any plane parallel to the direction in which the recess is formed may be constant or variable. In other words, the area of ​​material removed by ablation at the level of any plane parallel to the direction in which the recess is formed may vary in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the recess is formed.

[0272] The relevant area of ​​material removed by ablation can be in the millimeter range (e.g., in 1 mm 2 and 15mm 2 )), micrometer level (e.g., between 1 μm 2 and 15 μm 2 between 1 μm and 2 μm), nanometers (i.e., less than 1 μm 2 Any area of ​​), or the relevant area of ​​material removed by ablation may be a surface having a dimension of the order of:

[0273] - millimetres (between 0.5 mm and 10 mm inclusive, or even between 1 mm and 5 mm inclusive), or

[0274] - micrometers (between 0.5 μm and 200 μm inclusive, or even between 1 μm and 50 μm inclusive), or

[0275] - nanometer (between 50 nm and 500 nm inclusive, or even between 200 nm and 400 nm inclusive). In other words, the recess can therefore have an area of ​​millimeters or micrometers or nanometers, in particular at the level of the surface defining the bottom of the recess and / or at the level of the surface forming the recess.

[0276] These variants can be combined to produce different optical effects, in particular to produce shades and gradations of color.

[0277] Furthermore, such processing or removal by ablation can be performed in the added pigment either before or after curing.

[0278] The example described in detail below involves the production of:

[0279] -Glass,

[0280] -Two-tone bezel, and

[0281] -Two-tone bezel with metallized recesses.

[0282] A first example concerns the production of a watch glass, in particular made of sapphire, in two shades of red.

[0283] A first step consists in obtaining a watch glass, for example made of sapphire. For example, the lower surface 111 and / or the upper surface 112 are plane.

[0284] The second step consists in forming the decoration (first layer 12). In this step, a red pigment is obtained (prepared in advance, in particular by screen printing a colored enamel onto a transfer paper). The colored enamel film is separated from the transfer paper while it is immersed in deionized water. The film is then applied to the lower surface 111 of the watch glass (the face intended to be located inside the watch case). The watch glass is then cured in an oven at 800° C. for 15 minutes. The rate of temperature rise is fast (approximately 30 minutes) and cooling is achieved in equal duration, so that the complete heat treatment to achieve enamel vitrification lasts less than one and a half hours.

[0285] The third step consists in forming the finishing layer (second layer 13). In this third step, a white opaque enamel layer is applied to a portion of the finishing layer previously deposited during the second step. The finishing layer is, for example, an enamel layer applied by pigments in the same way as the decoration was applied during the second step. This is usually followed by curing the watch glass in an oven at 800° C. for 15 minutes. The rate of temperature rise is fast (approximately 30 minutes) and the cooling is achieved in an equal duration, so that the complete heat treatment to achieve the vitrification of the enamel lasts less than one and a half hours.

[0286] Then we get a watch glass with two shades of red:

[0287] - A first red hue (translucent red) at the location where only red enamel is applied. The appearance is translucent and translucent. At the location of this part of the decoration, it is possible to see through the glass;

[0288] as well as

[0289] - A second red hue (opaque red) at locations where an opaque white enamel finish layer is deposited over the red enamel. The appearance is red, more saturated and opaque. It is impossible to see through the glass in these locations.

[0290] Thus, various decorations formed according to this same principle can be proposed, such as a watch glass having a fine translucent or transparent decoration in certain locations and a fine opaque decoration in other locations, these opaque decorations constituting, for example, logos, divisions or hour markings.

[0291] A second example involves producing an outer ring disc from two-color sapphire, red and black.

[0292] In a first step, a sapphire bezel disc with a mirror-polished surface state is obtained. Its upper surface 112 (the surface that the user will see directly when the disc is in place on the timepiece) is, for example, dome-shaped. The lower surface 111 (the surface that the user will see indirectly (i.e., through the base plate) when the disc is in place on the timepiece) is, for example, flat.

[0293] In the second step, the decoration is formed by applying the first layer. For this reason, a pigment (a black pigment and a red pigment prepared in advance, in particular by screen printing the enamel onto the transfer paper) is obtained to form a part intended to be black and a part intended to be red. The pigment is immersed in deionized water so that the transfer paper is separated from the colored enamel film. These films are then placed on the lower surface 111. The black film is positioned on one half of the lower surface of the sapphire disk, and the red film is positioned on the other half of the lower surface of the sapphire disk. Then it is cured in an oven at 800°C for 15 minutes. The rate of rise of the temperature is fast (about 30 minutes), and cooling is achieved within an equal duration, so that the complete heat treatment of the enamel vitrification is achieved for less than one and a half hours. Alternatively, a single pigment including a black area and a red area can be used.

[0294] One or more marks may be formed on the substrate to help position the pigment film on the first surface 111. The one or more marks may be advantageously positioned on the first surface or on a surface adjacent to the first surface. The one or more marks may advantageously be composed of a material that disappears during vitrification of the enamel.

[0295] In the third step, the finishing layer is formed. For this purpose, a white opaque enamel layer is applied over the entire part previously glazed during the second step. The finishing layer is also obtained using pigments and is applied in the same way as the decoration during the second step. The lower surface 111 obtained, seen through the substrate, has a first half in opaque red and a second half in opaque black.

[0296] The outer ring disc with opaque decoration can then be clamped into the steel ring to form the outer ring. The technical part of the outer ring can be highlighted by forming an area on the lower surface 111 of the disc that remains transparent after the decoration.

[0297] A third example concerns the production of a red and black two-tone sapphire bezel disc with metallized recesses.

[0298] The decoration of the disc obtained in the second example described above can be continued to obtain a third example comprising metallized recesses or engravings.

[0299] The disc obtained by the procedure described in the second example was used.

[0300] The upper surface 112 is then covered with a protective resin.

[0301] Thereafter, a recess is formed on the upper surface 112 by the resin, in particular, using a femtosecond laser.

[0302] A metal (especially platinum) coating is then deposited on the upper surface by PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition).

[0303] The resin layer is then dissolved so that the metal coating remains only at the bottom of the recess.

[0304] A sapphire disk with a two-tone appearance, with saturated and opaque colors, is obtained. The etched marks (consisting of recesses) on the upper surface 112 have a metallic appearance after physical vapor deposition.

[0305] As in the second example, the outer ring disc can then be clamped into the steel ring to form the outer ring.Possible technical parts can be exposed by the area that remains transparent after the decoration is formed on the lower surface.

[0306] Thanks to the described approach, thanks to the proposed innovative construction, both the advantages of a pigment decoration and the advantages of a sapphire substrate can be obtained in a synergistic manner.

[0307] Due to the wide color range of available enamel colors, pigment decoration can obtain aesthetic advantages without design restrictions (only the resolution of the pigment must be considered; for example, when produced by screen printing, the resolution is the resolution of the grid of the selected frame). The enamel deposited by the pigment technology has very good adhesion. However, for this purpose, it is necessary to match the thermal expansion coefficient of the enamel and the thermal expansion coefficient of the substrate. The advantage provided by the enamel is that it guarantees the possible use of parts produced over a very wide temperature range, as well as excellent resistance to thermal shock, UV rays, moisture (even in combination with high temperatures) and chemical products. The pigment is not retained on a flat surface. In fact, the film can be deposited on a surface with a relief (for example, it is suitable for a dish with a truncated cone or dome-shaped surface). The pigment is not retained on a surface defined by the side because the film is a coherent object (unlike traditional enamels, which are deposited in the form of a fluid, so it is necessary to provide a side to keep it in its intended position). Pigment deposition has greater repeatability and automation than traditional glazing using a brush. Therefore, high-quality series production can be obtained.

[0308] Sapphire is the preferred material for producing the substrate 11. In fact, sapphire has excellent scratch resistance due to its very high hardness. For watch component applications, the fact that the upper surface 112 of the component (the surface exposed to possible mechanical attack) is made of sapphire makes it possible to provide a solution that is at least as good as the current ceramic solutions. In fact, the hardness of sapphire is equal to that of polycrystalline alumina used to produce some components and greater than that of zirconium oxide used to produce other components.

[0309] Moreover, sapphire has an excellent breaking stress. For the production of a watch component, the fact that the upper surface 112 of the component is made of sapphire makes it possible to provide a solution that is at least as good as those known to date. In fact, on average, the breaking stress of sapphire has a value of about 1700 MPa along axis A and about 3500 MPa along axis C, which is greater than the breaking stress of zirconium oxide (about 1300 MPa), which itself has a breaking stress greater than that of polycrystalline alumina (about 500 MPa).

[0310] New advantages are obtained in the proposed innovative construction by the combination of sapphire and pigment (the pigment is applied to the surface visible through the substrate, making it possible to use a light-blocking finishing layer):

[0311] The proposed solution combining sapphire and enamel decoration is completely inorganic and therefore cannot be degraded by UV rays, over a very wide temperature range, by moisture (even in combination with high temperatures), by chemical products, without having to seal the decoration. In addition, it is resistant to wear and tear.

[0312] - The decoration is at a distance from the upper surface 112 of the substrate directly visible to the user (the decoration is below the sapphire), which creates an aesthetic and visual effect of depth. This effect can be further amplified by the geometry of the circular recesses or dome-shaped protrusions of the surface of the substrate directly visible to the user.

[0313] -The design enables superposition of treatments and effects. For example:

[0314] * The upper surface 112 of the sapphire may be treated, in particular an anti-reflection treatment, and / or

[0315] * A recess may be formed on the upper surface 112 and / or the lower surface 111 of the sapphire.

[0316] - Due to the color of the colored layer and its position, the aesthetic effect can be chosen.

[0317] - The transparency level and aesthetic effect can be changed by adjusting the opacity and color of the facing layer, and its position can be changed. For masking functions, an opaque layer can be formed.

[0318] From an industrial point of view, the described solution is very advantageous in the sense that it enables a high production quality to be obtained due to the reproducibility of the method for producing a timepiece component.

[0319] In particular, the described solution enables the treatment of the upper surface 112 of the sapphire after the steps of obtaining the substrate, applying the first layer and applying the second layer are performed. For this treatment, it is possible to benefit from the transparency of the substrate and thus to locate the treatment position of the upper surface 112 with reference to the decoration formed on the lower surface 111. This enables the positioning of the treatment on the upper surface by observing / recognizing the shape of the decoration. Thus, one or more recesses can be formed on the upper surface 112 at a precise position relative to the enamel decoration previously formed on the lower surface 111 of the watch component, that is, the decoration formed by the first enamel layer can be used as a mark, in particular as a processing mark, to form one or more recesses on the upper surface 112. Conversely, an enamel decoration can be formed on the lower surface 111 of the watch component at a precise position relative to one or more recesses previously formed on the upper surface 112, that is, one or more recesses on the upper surface 112 can be used as a mark to produce a decoration formed by the first layer of enamel.

[0320] The described solution also makes it possible to easily produce many variants of the component. In fact, starting from a series of identical substrates 11, and depending on the choices adopted to form the first and second layers, it is finally possible to obtain watch components with a highly varied appearance.

[0321] In summary, in order to obtain a decorated, durable and variable timepiece component (without restrictions on the choice of graphic elements, patterns, shapes and colors or combinations thereof, with any spatial distribution (that is to say, without design restrictions)), it is proposed to form a first enamel layer on a partially transparent or transparent substrate, which first enamel layer is intended to be seen through the substrate. The first enamel layer can be formed by transfer, in particular by pigment decals, and / or the first enamel layer can be at least partially covered with a light-shielding second layer, in particular white light-shielding second layer.

[0322] In this document, "by transfer" means any method capable of transferring (or moving or positioning) the enamel onto the surface to be glazed according to a previously established design, that is to say, one that has been constructed before the transfer (or movement or positioning). This can include:

[0323] -Pad printing, or

[0324] - Direct screen printing, or

[0325] -Programmed deposition by inkjet printing.

[0326] When it involves moving a film (enamel powder mixed with a polymer) from a transfer paper to the surface to be glazed, the transfer may be a decal, in particular a waterslide decal.

[0327] Thus, the reverse use of pigmented glazing is achieved by using a second light-shielding layer in cooperation with the first layer to participate in the formation of the decoration. Thus, the user:

[0328] - seeing through the substrate the first layer that may have been formed by the use of pigments, and

[0329] - Possibly, the second layer is visible through the substrate and the first layer.

[0330] In the use of pigments according to the prior art, the result is completely different: in fact, the user usually sees the decoration through an uncolored and transparent enamel layer (covering) which covers the decoration to protect it, the enamel being applied on an opaque substrate.

Claims

1. A timepiece component (1), comprising: - a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material, - a first layer (12) of colored enamel applied to the substrate (11), in particular by transfer, in particular by pigment decals, and - a second finishing layer (13), in particular a light-shielding second finishing layer (13), applied at least partially to said first layer (12) of coloured enamel.

2. A watch component (1) according to claim 1, wherein the substrate is made of an inorganic material, such as technical ceramics, quartz, spinel, magnesium aluminate, AlON, YAG, cubic zirconia, mineral glass, polycrystalline alumina, glass ceramics, single crystal alumina, and / or the substrate has, at least partially, an actual linear transmittance greater than 60% or 70% or 80% or 85% for light with a wavelength of 550nm.

3. Timepiece component (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the base plate has a hardness greater than 800 Hv or 1000 Hv.

4. Timepiece component (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second finishing layer is: - an enamel layer, in particular an enamel layer applied by transfer printing, and / or - a metal base layer, in particular a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or - Another coating layer, such as a paint layer.

5. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the timepiece component (1) is an outer housing component of a timepiece (100), such as, in particular: -Glass, - bottom cover, - Outer ring disc, - wrist strap element, or -middleware, Alternatively, the timepiece component (1) is an internal component of a timepiece (100), for example, in particular: -dial, - flange, or - A dial for displaying timepiece information.

6. Timepiece component (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: - the substrate (11) comprises a first surface (111) and a second surface (112), in particular the second surface (112) is parallel or substantially parallel to the first surface (111), - the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) are applied to the first surface (111), and The first surface (111), in particular the first layer and / or the second layer applied thereto, is visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11).

7. The timepiece component (1) according to claim 6, wherein the base plate (11) comprises at least one second recess (15) formed on the second surface (112), in particular formed by laser machining.

8. Timepiece component (1) according to claim 7, wherein the at least one second recess (15) is coated, in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

9. The timepiece component (1) according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein the substrate (11) has an anti-reflection treatment on the second surface (112).

10. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of the preceding claims and claim 6, wherein the substrate (11) comprises at least one first recess (14) formed on the first surface (111) after application of the first layer and the second layer, in particular at least one first recess (14) formed by laser processing.

11. Timepiece component (1) according to claim 10, wherein the at least one first recess (14) is coated, in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

12. A timepiece component (1) according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the at least one first recess (14) is such that the material area removed by ablation at the level of a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed is arranged between the following surfaces: - a surface forming the at least one first recess, in particular the lower surface (111) or the surface of the first layer (12) or the surface of the second layer (13), and - a surface defining the bottom of said at least one first recess, and varies in a direction in which the at least one first recess is formed, and / or The at least one first recess (14) is such that the area of ​​material removed by ablation at the level of any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed varies in a direction orthogonal to the direction in which the at least one first recess is formed.

13. A timepiece component (1) according to any one of claims 10 to 12, wherein the at least one first recess (14) has an area in the millimeter or micrometer or nanometer range, in particular at the level of a surface defining the bottom of the recess and / or at the level of a surface forming the recess.

14. A method for producing a timepiece component (1), the method comprising the following steps: - obtaining a substrate (11) made of an at least partially transparent material, - applying a first layer (12) of colored enamel to the substrate (11), in particular by transfer printing, in particular by pigment decals, and - applying a second finishing layer (13), in particular a light-blocking second finishing layer (13), at least partially onto said first layer (12) of coloured enamel.

15. The production method according to claim 14, wherein applying the second layer is: - applying an enamel layer, in particular by transfer printing, in particular by pigment decals, and / or - applying a metal base layer, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or - Applying another coating layer, for example a paint layer.

16. A production method according to any one of claims 14 and 15, wherein the production method includes the step of forming at least one first recess (14) on the first surface (111) of the substrate (11), in particular, the at least one first recess (14) is formed by laser processing, and / or the production method includes the step of forming at least one second recess (15) on the second surface (112) of the substrate (11), in particular, the at least one second recess (15) is formed by laser processing.

17. A production method according to claim 16, wherein the step of forming at least one first recess and / or the step of forming at least one second recess is performed after the step of applying the first enamel layer (12) to the substrate (11), and in the step of forming at least one first recess and / or in the step of forming at least one second recess, the decoration formed by the first enamel layer is used as a mark, in particular as a processing mark.

18. A production method according to any one of claims 16 and 17, wherein the method comprises a step of coating the at least one first recess (14) and / or the at least one second recess (15), in particular with a metal base layer, in particular with a metal base layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.

19. A timepiece (100), comprising a timepiece component (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in particular a timepiece component (1) according to any one of claims 6 to 13, the timepiece component (1) being arranged so that the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) can be seen by a wearer of the timepiece (100) through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11).

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