Cosmetic composition comprising natural resin

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol, at least one natural resin, and at least one modified polysaccharide; and to the use of such a composition for improving the durability and / or friction resistance of a film obtained by applying said composition to a keratin material without increasing the tacky effect.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural resin, at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol and at least one modified polysaccharide in specific weight ratios. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method which implements the application of such a cosmetic composition to keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as skin, hair or eyelashes. Background Art

[0002] Cosmetic products often require the use of film-forming polymers in order to obtain a product deposit with good cosmetic properties on keratin materials. The film-forming deposit needs to have good persistence for the deposit needs not to transfer during contact with fingers or clothing and also needs to have good resistance in contact with water (especially rain) or during showering, and the deposit needs to be insensitive to sweat or sebum and food fats (especially dietary fats such as oils).

[0003] Dispersions of polymer particles (usually acrylic acid) in an organic medium (such as hydrocarbon-based oils) are often used as film formers in cosmetic products such as mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow or lipstick. In order to improve the durability of cosmetics, silicone-based resins are also used. These dispersions are not always satisfactory in terms of tolerance to fatty substances, in particular dietary fat or sebum, which may limit their use in lip makeup, for example.

[0004] Furthermore, the field of cosmetic formulations is undergoing rapid changes. Consumers expect to use more natural products and need peace of mind regarding the ingredients in cosmetic formulations, in particular regarding their harmlessness, their low environmental footprint, their origin, or their renewable nature. In recent years, replacing synthetic polymers, and in particular silicones, in cosmetic formulations has become a major challenge.

[0005] Although some natural resins such as rosin (rosin resin) have been explored as tackifying resins, this must be combined with a high proportion of silicone resin, for example in order to increase the gloss and good durability of lip makeup (FR 2918272). However, document WO 2013 / 147113 discusses several problems encountered with such ingredients, such as: as the amount of silicone resin increases, a decrease in the flexibility of the cosmetic film is often observed; as the amount of rosin increases, a sticky effect of the cosmetic film occurs. This can produce a "heavy", thick or caked cosmetic feel.

[0006] Consumers are accustomed to certain sensory properties and textures, such as those characteristic of silicones and synthetic polymer fillers. Cosmetic chemists therefore have to deal with a double challenge: naturalness on the one hand, where silicone resins and synthetic polymers are increasingly being replaced by more natural starting materials or starting materials of more natural origin, and performance and sensory properties on the other hand, so that more natural formulations have efficacy and sensory properties that are at least comparable to those of the less natural formulations they are designed to replace.

[0007] Finally, it remains a technical challenge to successfully formulate natural resins that are solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) in cosmetics with a fluid liquid texture. Generally, natural resins are said to be soluble in chlorinated solvents, or benzene compounds, or large amounts of alcohol. Such solvents cannot be considered for cosmetic uses for the care or make-up of the skin, especially the lips, where even ethanol above a certain content may cause discomfort, dryness, irritation or even a burning sensation of the skin. Therefore, the present invention also aims to enable and simply prepare a cosmetic composition that provides improved persistence, based on ingredients that are as natural as possible and in a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0008] In particular, the object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition whose residual film after application adheres well to keratin materials, is elastic and shows the least possible chipping and the least possible detachment from the substrate, which is not sticky, has good durability with respect to external aggressors such as friction, is resistant to sweat and sebum, and is relatively insensitive to oils such as dietary oils.

[0009] Surprisingly, the inventors have shown that a specific combination of volatile alcohols and volatile oils makes it possible to effectively dissolve natural resins (including semi-solid and solid natural resins) at ambient temperature (25° C.), which, in combination with modified polysaccharides, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition the application of which gives rise to a film that proves not only particularly resistant to friction but also non-tacky after drying. Summary of the invention

[0010] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition (A) comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0011] a- at least one volatile oil,

[0012] b- at least one volatile alcohol,

[0013] c- at least one natural resin, and

[0014] d-at least one modified polysaccharide.

[0015] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile oils and volatile alcohols to the amount of natural resin is greater than 1.

[0016] Preferably, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition (A) comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0017] a- at least one volatile oil,

[0018] b- at least one volatile alcohol,

[0019] c- at least one natural resin, and

[0020] d- at least one modified polysaccharide,

[0021] in:

[0022] - a weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1; and / or

[0023] The weight ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1.

[0024] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oily phase of composition (A) as defined above. The oily phase of the invention is preferably continuous.

[0025] The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0026] The invention further relates to the use of a composition as defined according to the invention for improving the durability on the skin and / or the resistance to rubbing of a cosmetic film obtained by applying said composition to keratin materials, without increasing the tacky effect of said film. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0027] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:

[0028] The term "keratin material" means skin, mucous membranes and / or skin appendages. Preferably, the keratin material is skin, in particular facial skin, mucous membranes such as lips and / or skin appendages such as eyelashes.

[0029] The compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. They are preferably cosmetic compositions.

[0030] The compositions according to the invention contain a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0031] In the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium compatible with keratin materials, in particular with human skin (including the inside of the eyelids), mucous membranes, hair or lips. Cosmetic compositions are products that have a pleasant appearance, taste and feel and are intended for topical application.

[0032] The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition that contains less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, and in particular, is free of water.

[0033] The term "volatile substance" means any substance that can evaporate in less than one hour when in contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile substance is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure, in particular in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, and preferably 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0034] The vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or via diametral analysis by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (standard OCDE 104).

[0035] The term "soluble or dissolvable compound" means a compound that is soluble or miscible in a liquid and forms only a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into a liquid.

[0036] The term "natural compound" means a compound obtained directly from the earth or soil, especially from plants, where appropriate by one or more physical methods, especially physical extraction methods, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtering.

[0037] The term "compound of natural origin" means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of the compound and / or a compound that consists essentially of natural components, which may or may not have undergone transformations as described above.

[0038] This transformation / processing follows the principles of green chemistry, uses eco-friendly methods, and does not involve any substances that harm the environment.

[0039] As non-limiting examples of additional chemical and industrial treatments resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of the natural compound, mention may be made of those permitted by controlling bodies such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in handbooks recognized in the field (such as Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine, 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10).

[0040] The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” should be understood as meaning that the limit values ​​are included, unless otherwise specified.

[0041] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0042] In the specification and examples, unless otherwise indicated, the contents and percentages are weight percentages. Therefore, the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These ratios are also weight ratios. Unless otherwise indicated, temperatures are expressed in degrees Celsius, and unless otherwise indicated, pressures are atmospheric pressure.

[0043] Composition (A) - Oil Phase

[0044] According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition as previously defined.

[0045] Surprisingly, the Applicant has observed that the combination of a composition A according to the invention comprising a natural resin, in particular a dissolved natural resin, in a specific mixture of volatile oils and volatile alcohols as defined below, with a modified polysaccharide makes it possible to obtain films having improved durability and resistance to abrasion and which are not tacky after drying.

[0046] Natural Resin

[0047] Resins are generally defined as solid, highly viscous or liquid substances of vegetable or synthetic origin. Resins have a number of characteristics specific to them, such as:

[0048] - the ability to harden permanently, for example for synthetic resins under the influence of temperature and for natural resins under the influence of oxygen;

[0049] - They are insoluble in water and most importantly their good adhesive and bonding properties.

[0050] Standard ISO 4618:2014 (fr) defines resin as "a generally amorphous macromolecular product with a consistency ranging from solid to liquid".

[0051] Natural resins are of virtually only plant origin (fossilized or harvested) and are secreted by plants and then exuded for defense, protection, and communication purposes in their ecosystems. Shellac is an exception, being of animal origin and secreted by the insect Coccus lacca.

[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, "natural resin", and in particular "plant resin", means any substance containing a minimum content of terpene compounds, i.e. at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds relative to the total weight of the substance (or material) in question, as chemically defined below, which substances are derived directly or indirectly from the secretions and exudates mainly of plants (and less frequently of animals) that serve as substances for the role of defence, protection and communication in their ecosystems.

[0053] Advantageously, the natural resins according to the invention are insoluble in water at ambient temperature (eg, unlike latex or gum).

[0054] Natural resins are also considered natural adhesives, which have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably without synthetic chemistry.

[0055] Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol. The resin preferably has a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 10 000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 5000 g / mol, better still less than or equal to 2000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 2000 g / mol, and even better still less than or equal to 1000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 1000 g / mol. The number average molecular weight (Mn) is determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established using linear polystyrene standards, refractometer).

[0056] Thermal Properties

[0057] Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized in that they have a softening point, which represents the temperature at which they pass from the quasi-solid state to the plastic state during heating.

[0058] Preferably, the softening point of the resin of the present invention is in the range of 20 to 150°C, more preferably 30 to 100°C, even more preferably 40 to 90°C.

[0059] The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain softening degree under standardized conditions. The softening point indicates the temperature at which the quasi-solid state changes to the plastic state during heating. The softening point can be measured for resins by the ring and ball method (or RBT, ring and ball temperature) according to standard ASTM E284;

[0060] Depending on their category, some of the resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature preferably below 360°C, preferably below 190°C and even more preferably below 90°C.

[0061] According to a preferred form of the invention, the resin does not have a melting temperature.

[0062] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of the substance can coexist in equilibrium;

[0063] Preferably, the glass transition temperature of the resin of the present invention is preferably in the range of 0°C to 200°C, more preferably 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably 20°C to 90°C, and even more preferably 30°C to 70°C.

[0064] The glass transition temperature (Tg) of a material represents the temperature range through which the material passes from a rubbery state to a glassy, ​​solid (rigid) state.

[0065] The thermal properties of the resin, in particular Mp and Tg, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example by a DSC 8000 apparatus from Perkin Elmer according to the following protocol:

[0066] - Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperature Mp and crystallization temperature Tc: Starting material alone or dissolved / dispersed in solvent, stainless steel plate, scan from 5°C to 90°C, scan rate 5°C.min-1.

[0067] - Protocol 2: Determination of glass transition temperature Tg: Measurement on second heating. Using an aluminum pan (40 μl) containing the starting material, a temperature scan (with isotherms) between -100°C and 150°C was performed to observe the glass transition temperature. For the glass transition temperature, the temperature ramp applied was 10°C / min (2 cycles).

[0068] Botanical Definition of Resin:

[0069] Natural resins of plant or animal origin are generally defined by Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Synthetic” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_089.pub2.

[0070] Natural resin can be Its Botanical Aspects Resins can be derived from gymnosperms (uncovered seeds) and angiosperms (covered seeds); angiosperms are subdivided into monocots (with one embryonic leaf) and dicots (with two embryonic leaves). They can also be selected based on their physical and chemical properties.

[0071] Natural resins include, inter alia, rosins (tall oil rosins, woods or gums derived from tree and plant exudates; wood extracts; or by-products from papermaking), fossil resins such as amber; extracted resins such as asphaltic rock; shellacs, such as those produced from insect secretions; and major derivatives thereof.

[0072] The resins of the invention are preferably of vegetable origin, in particular from plants or trees.

[0073] Fossil resins are (hard and semi-hard) resins collected from underground, where ancient forests that once disappeared for a long time were. Some of them are indeed no longer known. Due to aging or aging, some fossil resins have undergone considerable changes in their chemical structure, which may have taken thousands of years. The transition from fossil resins to modern resins may change. For example, they can include resins not only found in fossil form but also harvested from living plants. Semi-fossil varieties are collected from the foot of the tree that produces them (Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry [Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry], "Resins, Natural [natural resins] "2012 Willy-VCH Publishing Company (Wiley-VCHVerlag GmbH & Co.KGaA), Weinheim [Weinheim], DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_073) (Techniques de l'Ingénieur [Engineering Technology], "Résines Naturelles" [natural resins], 1982Bernard Delmond).

[0074] Harvested resin is recent (tender). Harvested resin is harvested from all living plants. Based on the composition of harvested resin, it is subdivided into:

[0075] -Oleoresins: natural solutions of resins in essential oils;

[0076] - Balsam: a resin characterized by a high proportion of benzoic and cinnamic acids and their esters;

[0077] - Gums: Resins consisting essentially of polysaccharides;

[0078] - Gums-resins: mixtures of resins and hydrophilic gums;

[0079] - Latex: milky composition of an organic substance dispersed in an aqueous medium: (Techniques de l'Ingénieur [Engineering techniques], "Résines Naturelles" [Natural resins], 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0080] Among the resins of the present invention, particularly modern resins, those soluble in oil and / or alcohol are preferably in a water-soluble form such as a latex or gum.

[0081] According to a preferred mode of the invention, the resins of the invention are harvested resins; these are particularly advantageous from an ecological point of view since they are self-regenerating.

[0082] Preferably, the resins of the invention are modern. Advantageously, the resins used according to the invention rely on resources that do not compete with resins intended for food applications. Advantageously, the resins used in the compositions of the invention are derived from the recycling of by-products of the paper industry.

[0083] Chemical Definition of Resin

[0084] Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds, whose presence and content define the class of resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acidic components, and polysaccharides (exclusively found in gums).

[0085] The components that characterize the resins are the terpene compounds they contain, preferably in a content of at least 30% by weight relative to the weight of the resin.

[0086] "Terpenic compounds" means terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene having the general formula (C5H8)n and its many derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) containing the terpene structure (Académie de Montpellier [Montpellier Academy]. Resins: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html) .

[0087] Among the terpene hydrocarbons, a distinction is made between monoterpenes of the empirical formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes of the empirical formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), disesquiterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8) and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they include a plurality of double bonds, which corresponds to their empirical formula: 3 for C10H16, 5 for C20H32, 7 for C30H48. The rest have one or more rings, so that the number of double bonds is reduced, for example one ring and 2 double bonds for C10H16, or 2 rings and one double bond.

[0088] Advantageously, the resin of the invention contains at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% by weight of terpene compounds and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, or even better still at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the resin or resinous substance used as starting material in the composition according to the invention.

[0089] Monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes are the main volatile compounds constituting, for example, essential oils. Polyterpenes derived from terpenes where n is greater than or equal to 4 (such as derivatives of diterpenes and triterpenes) are resinous compounds with a rather solid nature.

[0090] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight of polyterpenoids, i.e. compounds derived from terpenes in which n is greater than or equal to 4, relative to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Thus, resins having a fraction that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) are preferred. Advantageously, the resin used according to the invention is not volatile.

[0091] Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resin or resinous substance used in the composition of the invention are mainly (more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.

[0092] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin comprises less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, i.e. compounds derived from terpenes in which n is less than 4, relative to the total weight of the resin representing 100%; preferably, the resin comprises less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds derived from terpenes in which n is less than 4, relative to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Therefore, for the composition of the invention, it is preferred to limit the use of the most volatile resins, since they are less effective in terms of the durability of the cosmetic film.

[0093] A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that may be included in the natural resins of the present invention has been generated. This list lists families of terpene compounds that are subdivided based on the characteristic groups (alcohol function, ketone function, acid function, etc.) of each compound (as listed below).

[0094] Examples of Monoterpene Compounds

[0095] Advantageously, the monoterpene compound of the resin is chosen from α-pinene, β-pinene, 3-carene, camphene, dipentene, p-cymene, B-myrcene, α-phellandrene, sabinene, α-thujacene, limonene, octyl acetate, neryl acetate, bornyl acetate, geranyl acetate, α-terpineol, eucalyptol, linalool, camphenol, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Examples of Sesquiterpene Compounds

[0097] Advantageously, the sesquiterpene compound of the resin is chosen from: α-cubane, β-caryophyllene, β-bisabolene, β-gulurene, α-gulurene, allo-orangene, β-bourbonne, δ-cadinene, α-guaiacene, α-elemene, β-elemene, δ-elemene, α-cubane, α-phellinene, β-phellinene, β-bourbonne, linderene, furfural-1,3-diene, α-cuberene, farnesol, α-elemenol, virgin olive oil, t-cadinol, β-elemenol, germacone, curcumone, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Examples of Diterpene Compounds

[0099] Advantageously, the diterpenoids of the resin are selected from the group consisting of abietic acid, pimaric acid, sandaracopimaric acid, slash pimaric acid, levopimaric acid, palustric acid, isopimaric acid, dehydroabietic acid, neoabietic acid, kaurenic acid, coniferene A, coniferene C, isopinatum, valerian-4(20),7,11-triene, boswellol, totarol, sandaracopimaric acid, cembrenol, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Examples of Triterpene Compounds

[0101] Advantageously, the triterpenoids of the resin are chosen from:

[0102] 3β,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarene acid, dammardienoic acid, hydroxydammarene (I or II), dammarenediol I (or II), dammardienoic acid, 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (KBA), 11-keto-β-boswellic acid acetate (AKBA), β-boswellic acid, ursolic acid, mangolic acid, arbutin, α-amyrinone, α-amyrin alcohol, β-amyrin alcohol, urocanol, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, acetyllupine acid, lupine acid, lupine alcohol, betulonal, hydroxyhopanone, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0103] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the resin used according to the invention contains at least one diterpene compound, preferably derived from abietic acid, which is natural or chemically modified.

[0104] Preferably, the diterpene compound, in particular derived from abietic acid, is present in the resin in a weight content of at least 20%, preferably at least 30% and even more preferably at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the natural resin.

[0105] Mention may be made in particular of rosin resins t) containing such diterpene compounds, such as rosinates.

[0106] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, as an alternative to the first embodiment or in fact in addition to the first embodiment, the resin used according to the present invention contains at least one triterpene compound, preferably selected from the following triterpene compounds: α-amyrin, β-amyrin, α-amyrin ketone, β-amyrin ketone, dammardienon, dammardienonol, ursolic acid, hydroxyhopazone, dianthaldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] The total content of triterpenoids in the resin used according to the invention, in particular the content of the above preferred triterpenoids, is advantageously at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, even more preferably at least 30%, and preferably at least 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the natural resin.

[0108] Mention may be made in particular of mastic resin k), Aesculus quinata or Sauvignon ovata which contain such triterpenoids.

[0109] The chemical composition of the resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art, such as gas chromatography GC analysis, chromatography with flame ionization detection (known as GC-FID) or GC / MS analysis (which involves the use of a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph); preferably by GC-FID.

[0110] These common methods are described in the following paper: "Development of methodologies in TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS for the analysis of composés "Advances in methods for the analysis of terpenoids in plant resins using TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS", https: / / tel.archives-ouvertes.fr / tel-01581308 .

[0111] Definition of Resin According to Its Source:

[0112] Advantageously, the natural resins according to the invention are chosen from: a) grass resins, b) amber, c) asphaltites and black bitumen, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (especially kauri copal resin, copal resin from Manila, West African copal such as Congo, Angola or Cameroon copal, East African copal such as Zanzibar or Madagascar copal, South American copal such as Brazilian or Colombian copal), i) dammar resin, j) elemi resin, k) frankincense, l) galbanum, m) labdanum, n) mastic resin, o) myrrh, p) sandarac resin, q) shellac, r) styrax (balsam), s) Venetian turpentine (larch, turpentine essence), t) rosin, in particular rosin, rosin acid esters and u) tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures of these resins; preferably, the natural resin used according to the invention is selected from: j), k), t), u) and v), and mixtures of these resins; preferably, the natural resin is selected from j), k) and v), and mixtures of these resins; it is understood that the resins of the invention may be esterified, salified, adduct-forming, phenol-modified and / or dimerized and / or additionally hydrogenated.

[0113] j) Elemis

[0114] "Elemi" is a general term used to define a group of modern natural resins derived from plants of the Burseraceae family (Canarium indicum). Each type is described according to the country of its origin. According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the elemi resin used is derived from the Philippines, particularly Manila elemi. To extract elemi, the tree is cut and a pathological resin flow appears, which solidifies over time. The color of elemi is light yellow to light green, opaque, similar to hair oil, slippery, sticky and solidifies into a slightly brown resin scattered with crystals.

[0115] Elemi is soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters and carbon disulfide; and less soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemi has an acid value between 18 and 34, a saponification value between 25 and 60, and a softening point of about 80. The balsam that secretes elemi contains up to 30% essential oil.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin of the present invention is selected from, for example, elemi in pure form or mixed with latex, particularly elemi derived from the Canarium luzonicum family. Mention may be made of the Canarium luzonicum elemi resin sold under the name ELEMI RESIN.

[0117] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from j) elemi.

[0118] k) Frankincense (Boswellia resin)

[0119] Frankincense is present in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia and eastern India. Frankincense resin is modern and is taken from the Boswellia carterii tree. There is also Amazon frankincense resin. The bark is deliberately damaged to obtain a milky extract, which is recovered after drying. Preferably, the resin of the present invention is selected from frankincense, particularly Amazon frankincense.

[0120] Frankincense resin is light yellow and forms irregular round or spherical beads. Frankincense resin usually contains 20% to 40% by weight (about 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Frankincense has an acid value between 30% and 50% (indirect) and is moderately soluble in ethanol in an alkaline medium.

[0121] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the resin of the present invention is selected from frankincense, particularly Amazon frankincense sold under the name Protium resin, or White Breu resin, and frankincense resin derived from Shorea robusta.

[0122] Advantageously, the resin is in the form of a mixture with one or more fatty substances as defined hereinafter according to the invention, preferably fatty substances selected from volatile or non-volatile oils. Mention may be made, for example, of Shorea resin with sunflower oil sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 (Shorea resin, sunflower (helianthus) oil, tocopherol: 50% - 75% by weight of Shorea resin, 25% - 50% by weight of sunflower oil) and Shorea resin with octyldodecanol sold by KAHLWAX (Shorea resin and octyldodecanol, 50% - 70% by weight of Shorea resin, 30% - 50% by weight of octyldodecanol).

[0123] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from k) frankincense.

[0124] t) rosin

[0125] Preferably, the natural resin is selected from rosin. Rosin is a modern resin from renewable resources and can be modified (e.g., esterified, hydrogenated, substituted).

[0126] Gum rosin is preferably purified and distilled from the balsams of various pine essences (up to 80 different species).

[0127] The composition of rosin is determined by climate, soil composition, and other botanical and meteorological factors. For example, mention may be made of rosin derived from: Pinus austriaca (black pine) Austria, Central America, Caribbean (slash pine) United States, Caribbean, Pinus densiflora Japan, Pinus elliottii United States, Pinus halepensis Greece, Portugal, Spain, Pinus longifolia India, Pinus pinaster France, Spain, Portugal, Pinus massoniana (Chinese red pine) China, Pinus merkusii Indonesia, Myanmar, Philippines, Pinus nigra (black pine) Austria, Pinus oocarpa Central America, Honduras, Pinus palustris (longleaf pine) United States, Pinus pseudostrobus Central America, Mexico, Pinus sylvestris (Scots pine) Germany, Poland, Pinus latteri China, Pinus yunnanensis China.

[0128] The average composition is about 70% to 75% rosin and 20% to 25% turpentine essence.

[0129] Wood rosin [8050 - 09 - 7]

[0130] Rosin is derived from stumps in the United States that have remained on the ground for at least 10 years in order to obtain resin-rich heartwood.

[0131] Pine stumps contain between 10 and 30% (about 19%) rosin by weight, between 1 and 10% (preferably 4%) turpentine by weight, between 1 and 10% (preferably 4%) resins insoluble in petroleum ether by weight, between 20 and 30% (preferably 23%) water by weight and between 40 and 60% (preferably 50%) cellulose and lignin types by weight.

[0132] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from rosin.

[0133] u) Tall oil rosin (rosin and rosin acid esters) [8052-10-6]

[0134] Tall oil rosin generally contains small amounts of higher fatty acids, in particular fatty acids having a carbon number greater than or equal to 6 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the tall oil rosin does not contain oxocarboxylic acids. Tall oil rosin is particularly soluble in organic solvents.

[0135] The rosin resin of the present invention specifically includes abietic acid which belongs to terpene. Abietic acid is used as an example to explain the numbering of carbon atoms in the abietic acid molecule.

[0136] Abietic acid has the molecular formula C 20 H 30 O 2 , and therefore belongs to the diterpene family (four isoprene units). There are a large number of isomers of tricyclic abietic acid, which differ in the position of the two double bonds.

[0137] Advantageously, the resin according to the invention is chosen from gum rosins obtained by notching on living trees, wood rosins extracted from pinewood or stumps and tall oil obtained from by-products originating from paper production ("tall oil rosin"). Advantageously, the resin comprises abietic acid, preferably mainly chosen from acids of the abietic and pimaric acid type, and in particular chosen from levorotatory pimaric acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, dextrorotatory pimaric acid, isodextrorotatory pimaric acid or palustric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] Rosin derivatives may in particular result from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification (for example with polyols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol or pentaerythritol) of rosin acids. Examples that may be mentioned include the rosin esters sold under the references Foral 85, Pentalyn H and Staybelite Ester 10 by Hercules; Sylvatac 95 and Zonester 85 by Arizona Chemical or Unirez 3013 by Union Camp.

[0139] According to one embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from rosinates (salts of alkaline agents of rosin acid, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc or magnesium).

[0140] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is chosen from rosin acid esters, in particular esters of rosin acid as defined above with (C1-C6)alkanols, polyhydroxy (C1-C6)alkane polyols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from glycerol rosinate sold under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glycerol rosinate as a mixture with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor oil (hydrogenated vegetable oil, castor oil, glycerol rosinate sold by EFP BIOTEK), pentaerythritol rosinate sold under the names RESIESTER N 35S and RESIESTER 80.

[0141] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6)alkane or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6)olefin adducts, in particular adducts of maleic acid and rosin acid.

[0142] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from phenol-modified rosins, in particular those modified by (C1-C4) alkylenephenols or diphenols, which are optionally substituted by one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl or tert-butyl, more particularly rosins modified by 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4'-isopropylidene diphenol (bisphenol A).

[0143] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from dimerized rosins, in particular those in which abietic acid is polymerized. The rosin preferably contains more than 50% dimer acid and is therefore called dimerized rosin. According to one embodiment, the rosin is polymerized and contains 30 to 90% dimer acid by weight (in particular at least 40%, 60% or 80% dimer acid).

[0144] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from hydrogenated rosin. Double bonds, in particular those of acids such as abietic acid, are subject to oxidation, which can be eliminated by hydrogenation. Of course, the resins of the invention can be esterified, salified, adducted, phenol-modified and / or dimerized and additionally hydrogenated.

[0145] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin contains at least one ester of rosin acid selected from the group consisting of: glycerol rosinate, pentaerythritol rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated rosinate dilinoleyl dimer, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glycerol dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate, glycerol diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glycerol rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythritol rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] According to a specific embodiment, the resin of the present invention is selected from hydrogenated pentaerythritol rosinate (pentaerythritol hydrogenated rosinate) and hydrogenated methyl rosinate (methyl hydrogenated rosinate) sold under the name SYMRISE BIO4326.

[0147] In addition, the resin of the present invention can be mixed with a fatty substance c) as defined below, particularly wax or butter. Mixtures of glycerol rosinate with one or more fatty substances c) (particularly selected from wax or butter) can be mentioned, such as mixtures with shea butter or olive oil, such as (glycerol rosinate, castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil), shea butter (butyrospermum parkii) glycerol rosinate, olea europaea (olive) oil unsaponifiables glycerol rosinate, olea europaea (olive) oil unsaponifiables sold by shea butter & glyceryl rosinate & oils.

[0148] v) Resins extracted from vegetable waxes

[0149] Natural vegetable waxes themselves are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted / expelled by plants and naturally contain very low amounts of resin, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes relative to the total weight of the wax. For example, carnauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of the carnauba palm tree (Copernica cerifera) to prevent leaf dehydration. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia antisyphilitica native to northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax consists mainly of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20% to 29%), free acids (7% to 9%), and resin (12% - 14%, mainly triterpene esters).

[0150] However, for the purposes of the present invention, the definition of "natural resin" also includes resins resulting from plant waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, separated or extracted from these waxes, as long as the resinous or terpenic component in question contains the minimum content of terpenes required by the invention (30% by weight relative to the total weight of the component). Mention may in particular be made of the Candelilla resin with the INCI name: EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (Candelilla) wax extract, sold under the name CANDELILLA RESIN E-1 by JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS (pure 100% resin, extracted from the corresponding wax). Document WO 2013 / 147113 A1 also relates to carnauba resins, i.e. terpene resins extracted from carnauba wax, which have physical properties similar to those of the natural resins traditionally described, such as a softening temperature instead of a melting temperature, which distinguishes the resin from the wax.

[0151] Table 1 of Examples shows some characteristic differences between waxes according to the invention and resins with respect to their thermal properties.

[0152] Resins have a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but not a melting temperature.

[0153] The opposite applies to waxes, which have a melting temperature.

[0154] The resin is preferably chosen from resins j), k) and t) as defined previously, and resins v) extracted from waxes, in particular candelilla or carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0155] Resins Preferred According to the Invention:

[0156] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from the following references, represented by their INCI names, used alone or as a mixture:

[0157] - Candelilla wax extracts such as CANDELILLA RESINE-1 sold by JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS, BOTANICAL RESIN sold by CERA RICA NODA, TOWAX-1F12 (v-resin) sold by TOA KASEI;

[0158] - Aesculus quinquefolius resin, or Aesculus quinquefolius resin, or Aesculus quinquefolius resin, which can be sold, for example, by CITROLEO or Ephyla (k-type resin)

[0159] - mastic resin from the Shorea tree, i.e. Shorea resin. The resin may be in the form of a mixture with one or more fatty substances as defined below, c), preferably selected from volatile or non-volatile oils. Mention may be made, for example, of the Shorea resin with sunflower oil sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 (Shorea resin, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, tocopherol: 50%-75% by weight of Shorea resin, 25%-50% by weight of sunflower oil) and the Shorea resin with octyldodecanol sold by KAHLWAX (Shorea resin and octyldodecanol, 50%-70% by weight of Shorea resin, 30%-50% by weight of octyldodecanol) (k-type resin).

[0160] - rosin acid esters, such as glyceryl rosinate sold under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glyceryl rosinate as a mixture with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor oil (hydrogenated vegetable oil, castor oil, glyceryl rosinate sold by EFP BIOTEK), pentaerythritol rosinate or hydrogenated rosinates, such as hydrogenated pentaerythritol rosinate (pentaerythritol hydrogenated rosinate), sold under the name SYMRISE BIO 4326 (methyl hydrogenated rosinate) (t-type resins).

[0161] Even More Preferred Resins According to the Invention:

[0162] According to a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from the following references, represented by their INCI names, used alone or as a mixture:

[0163] - Candelilla wax extracts such as CANDELILLA RESINE-1 sold by JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS, BOTANICAL RESIN sold by CERA RICA NODA, TOWAX-1F12 (v-resin) sold by TOA KASEI;

[0164] - Aesculus quinquefolius resin, or Aesculus quinquefolius resin, or Aesculus quinquefolius resin, which can be sold, for example, by CITROLEO or Ephyla (k-type resin)

[0165] - Sauvignon resin, mastic resin derived from the Sauvignon tree. The resin may be present as a mixture with one or more fatty substances c), preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils, as defined below. Mention may be made, for example, of the Sauvignon resin with sunflower oil sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 (Sauvignon resin, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, tocopherol: 50%-75% by weight of Sauvignon resin, 25%-50% by weight of sunflower oil) and the Sauvignon resin with octyldodecanol sold by the company Carle Wax (Sauvignon resin and octyldodecanol, 50%-70% by weight of Sauvignon resin, 30%-50% by weight of octyldodecanol) (k-type resin).

[0166] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from Candelilla (Candelilla) wax extract.

[0167] Advantageously, the resin is present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 35%, preferably from 1% to 30%, preferably from 1.2% to 25%, preferably from 1.5% to 25%, preferably from 2% to 25%, preferably from 3% to 22%, preferably from 3% to 20%, for example from 5% to 20%, preferably from 3% to 15%, preferably from 3% to 10%, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0168] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of synthetic resins, preferably is free of synthetic resins.

[0169] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of silicone resins, preferably free of silicone resins, i.e. synthetic resins in which the basic structure is a chain containing siloxane groups (silicon-oxygen-silicon bonds).

[0170] Oil

[0171] The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase, advantageously a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0172] The phases are at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 Pa) is liquid (in the absence of a structurant). It is organic, i.e. contains at least carbon and hydrogen atoms, and is immiscible with water.

[0173] The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and optionally ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0174] The total concentration of the oily phase of the composition according to the invention advantageously ranges from 5% to 100%, preferably from 10% to 98%, preferably from 15% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] The term "oil" means oil at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa) is a water-immiscible compound that is liquid below 1.

[0176] The term "immiscible" means that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil after stirring under the above-mentioned temperature and pressure conditions does not produce a stable solution containing only one phase. If necessary, 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri mixer to produce a vortex in the mixture (as a guide, 200 to 1000 rpm) is observed by eye or using a phase contrast microscope, and before observation, the resulting mixture is left to stand at room temperature in a closed flask for 24 hours.

[0177] Volatile Oil

[0178] The term "volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 1.3 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, preferably ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, preferably from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, and preferably from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0179] Advantageously, the vapour pressure of the volatile oil used in the composition of the invention ranges from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa, preferably from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and preferably from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0180] In contrast, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure that is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.

[0181] By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by diametral analysis via isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (standard OCDE 104).

[0182] The volatile oil is preferably present in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 2% to 70%, preferably from 3% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably from 8% to 40% by weight and even more preferably from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] The volatile oil is advantageously chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0184] Volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0185] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic acid functions. Hydrocarbon-based oils therefore do not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0186] The term "non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is preferably non-aromatic (also called hydrocarbons).

[0187] The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic acid functional groups, ie an oil having only C, H and O.

[0188] As examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0189] - hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and the hydrocarbons sold under the trade name or Oil for sale,

[0190] - C6-C16 straight-chain alkanes, for example C11-C15 alkanes, alone or as a mixture, for example hexane, decane, undecane or tridecane, isoparaffins such as, for example, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the corresponding references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, undecane-tridecane mixtures, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof, and also mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) from BASF, such as Cetiol

[0191] - Volatile, non-aromatic, cyclic C5-C12 alkanes;

[0192] - branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate;

[0193] - short-chain esters (containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, as sold, for example, by Solvay, Dow or Oxea;

[0194] - a volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oil of the structure R'1-O-CO-O-R'2, wherein R'1 and R'2 independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferred that R1 and R2 are identical. Preferably, R'1 and R'2 represent a linear butyl alkyl group, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is selected from dibutyl carbonate and dipentyl carbonate;

[0195] - a volatile ether oil of the formula R1OR2, wherein R1 and R2 independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferred that R1 and R2 are identical.

[0196] Straight-chain alkyl groups that may be mentioned include butyl and pentyl. Branched-chain alkyl groups that may be mentioned include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, tert-butyl and 1,1-dimethylpropyl. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether and didecyl ether, most particularly dicaprylyl ether.

[0197] It is also possible to use other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Sol T by Shell, or volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE102008012457 from Cognis.

[0198] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of hydrocarbon type having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms (thus nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils, consisting only of carbon and hydrogen) and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

[0199] - branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and also the oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as a mixture,

[0200] - straight chain alkanes, such as C11-C15 alkanes, alone or as a mixture, and

[0201] - mixtures thereof.

[0202] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen in particular from C6-C16 alkanes, and in particular mixtures of alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, undecane and tridecane, and isoparaffins such as C13-C16 isoparaffins.

[0203] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the volatile oil is a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based oil, which is volatile, particularly selected from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane and mixtures thereof, preferably comprising isododecane and / or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0204] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil of the invention is a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, whose chains contain 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes. This mixture is notably sold by the company BioSynthIs under the INCI name C9-C12 alkanes, CAS 68608-12-8, VEGELIGHT Known.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is at least partly of plant origin.

[0206] Volatile silicone oil

[0207] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0208] The volatile silicone oil may be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0209] Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dimethicone such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as a mixture.

[0210] According to a particular form of the invention, use will be made of a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and of at least one volatile silicone oil, and more particularly of isododecane and of dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0211] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone oils, especially volatile silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition, and ideally, the composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone oil.

[0212] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0213] The composition of the present invention preferably comprises isododecane, C9-C12 linear or branched alkanes and / or a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises isododecane.

[0214] Preferably, the weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 18, preferably 8 to 15.

[0215] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition may further comprise one or more non-volatile oils.

[0216] Non-Volatile Oil

[0217] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. The vapor pressure can be measured, for example, according to a static method or by diametral analysis by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (standard OCDE 104).

[0218] The non-volatile oils of the present invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

[0219] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition C1 or C1' comprises one or more non-volatile oils.

[0220] Among the fixed oils, mention may be made of:

[0221] Non-volatile silicone oil

[0222] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from the non-volatile polysiloxanes with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone; and also mixtures thereof.

[0223] These products are especially those sold under the names PH-1555HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone), alone or as a mixture, by the company Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicone, such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d and KF-50-100CS or diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone KF56 A sold by the company Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 (trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone) sold by the company Wacker Chemie.

[0224] Non-volatile fluorinated oil

[0225] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0226] The fluoro oil may in particular be chosen from fluorinated polyethers and also from fluorosilicone oils and fluorosilicones as described in EP-A-847752.

[0227] Non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0228] The nonpolar, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, for example:

[0229] - liquid paraffin,

[0230] - squalane, such as that sold by Amyris under the reference NEOSSANCE SQUALANE,

[0231] - isoeicosane,

[0232] - saturated linear hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof, more particularly C15-C28, such as the mixtures having, for example, the following INCI names: C15-19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19, Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC,

[0233] - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, such as the products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers, the products with the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

[0234] - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutylene, such as those sold by NIPPON OIL FATS A series of non-volatile compounds,

[0235] - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, such as sold by ExxonMobil A series of non-volatile compounds,

[0236] - decene / butene copolymers and butene / isobutylene copolymers,

[0237] - and mixtures thereof.

[0238] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0239] They can be selected from:

[0240] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monohydric alcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohol is a fatty alcohol, which is preferably branched when it contains at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol contains from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0241] triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may in particular have a chain length ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C8 to C36, preferably from C18 to C36, these oils may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. Mention may be made, by way of example, of heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin oil, zucchini oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, tung oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and also mixtures thereof;

[0242] - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of the formula RCOOR', in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycols, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, the total number of carbon atoms being advantageously at least 10. Mention may be made, as examples of such esters, of isoamyl laurate, cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isopropyl isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, cocoyl caprylate / caprate, caprylic, capric or ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, cetyl caprylate, tridecyl caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, benzoic acid Alkyl esters, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoate esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoate esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isoacetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate;

[0243] - hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate;

[0244] - aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate and butyloctyl salicylate;

[0245] - Esters of straight-chain fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate;

[0246] - esters of branched C24-C28 fatty acids or fatty alcohols, such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythritol tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate);

[0247] - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and glycols, such as those having the INCI names Dilinoleic acid / butylene glycol copolymer or Dilinoleic acid / propylene glycol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers and glycol dimers, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

[0248] - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether;

[0249] - dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0250] - vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name); and

[0251] - mixtures thereof.

[0252] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, polar hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof as previously defined, preferably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, polar hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof as previously defined.

[0253] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR', in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of an alkylene glycol as previously defined, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, more preferably chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cocoyl caprylate / caprate and mixtures thereof, and better still represents isononyl isononanoate.

[0254] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monohydric alcohols, as previously described, which are preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms, and in particular chosen from oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, such as sold under the reference Eutanol G by BASF, and mixtures thereof.

[0255] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may in particular have a chain length ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular C18 C8 to C36, as previously described, these oils may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably chosen from heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof, and more preferably caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as the reference number Palmester 3585 sold by Kuala Lumpur Kepong Oleochemical Sdn Bhd (KLKOleo).

[0256] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from the non-polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils as previously described, preferably chosen from mixtures of linear saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes and mixtures thereof.

[0257] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils, chosen from mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, C15-C19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, such as the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by Sepico, Emogreen L15 sold by Sepico, products with the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.

[0258] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil c) comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearate neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, mixtures with the INCI name C15-C19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, such as Gemseal 40, Gemseal, products with the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from products with the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, mixtures with the INCI name C15-C19 alkanes, such as Emogreen L15 sold by the company Cepico, and isononyl isononanoate.

[0259] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil consists of one or more non-volatile polar or non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils as previously defined.

[0260] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil comprises at least one silicone oil as defined above, preferably selected from dimethylpolysiloxane, such as grade Belsil DM 5Plus Dimethicone sold by Wacker, index number Dowsil SH 200C Fluid 10CST sold by Dow Chemical, or index number Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000CST sold by Dow Chemical, or phenyltrimethylpolysiloxane such as index number Dowsil SH 556 Fluid sold by Dow Chemical.

[0261] Preferably, when the non-volatile oil is a mixture of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (preferably selected from non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils) and at least one volatile silicone oil, the amount of the silicone oil is less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0262] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the optional non-volatile oil is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably between 2% and 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] The weight ratio denoted as R means the ratio of the sum of the masses of the volatile oils (VO) to the sum of the masses of the non-volatile oils (NVO) as defined below:

[0264] R = [sum of the masses of VO] / [sum of the masses of NVO].

[0265] Preferably, R is such that 0 < R ≤ 10,000, more particularly 0.01 < R ≤ 1000; more particularly 0.05 < R ≤ 500; preferably, 0.1 < R ≤ 100, or even 0.5 < R ≤ 50.

[0266] The addition of non-volatile oil tends to reduce the wear tolerance of the film, so rather than compared to the content of volatile oil, it is preferably used in a lower content of non-volatile oil to maintain optimal persistence while having a comfortable skin feel (soft, moisturizing and non-sticky feeling after applying the composition).

[0267] Volatile Alcohol

[0268] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile alcohol.

[0269] The term "alcohol" means any compound containing at least one hydroxyl functional group in its structure.

[0270] The term "volatile substance" means any substance that can evaporate in less than one hour when in contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. A volatile substance is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular has a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure, in particular has a vapor pressure in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), and preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg).

[0271] The term "volatile alcohol" means any compound containing at least one hydroxyl group and wherein more than 95% by weight of the compound can evaporate in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) upon contact with keratin materials such as skin or hair, in particular in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure upon contact with the skin. The volatile substance is liquid at ambient temperature and preferably has a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, and preferably 2.66 Pa to 8000 Pa.

[0272] Advantageously, according to the definition of the volatile substances used in the composition of the present invention, the volatile oil or the volatile alcohol, preferably each of them, has a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 1.3 Pa, preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

[0273] The vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or via diametral analysis by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (standard OCDE 104).

[0274] The volatile alcohol according to the present invention is preferably selected from lower C1-C5 alcohols, and may be selected from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, preferably selected from C1-C4 alcohols, preferably selected from: ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol and mixtures thereof, more particularly ethanol.

[0275] The viscosity of the volatile alcohol is preferably between 0.3 and 3 mPa.s, measured at 20° C. with a Haake RheoStress 600 machine at a rotor diameter of 60 mm, an angle of 2° and a shear rate of 200 s −1 .

[0276] Advantageously, the volatile alcohol is present in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 50% and more particularly from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. An advantage of the composition of the invention is the ability to limit the content of volatile alcohols (which are often the cause of discomfort (dryness, stinging)) without losing any solubility power.

[0277] Preferably, the weight ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 1.2 to 20, preferably 1.5 to 15.

[0278] Preferably, the weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of volatile alcohol is in the range of preferably 0.01 to 100, preferably 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.25 to 8, preferably 0.3 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 5, preferably 0.7 to 5, preferably 1 to 4, preferably 1.5 to 4.

[0279] Preferably, the weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of volatile alcohol is greater than 0.25, preferably greater than 0.3, preferably greater than 0.4, preferably greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, preferably greater than 0.7, preferably greater than 0.9, preferably greater than 1.

[0280] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the weight content of volatile oils is greater than that of volatile alcohols, which themselves are greater than that of natural resins (oil>alcohol>resin), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] Therefore, in the composition according to the present invention, the sum of the respective weight contents of volatile oils, volatile alcohols and natural resins (S) preferably follows the following rule:

[0282] S(volatile oils)>S(volatile alcohols)>S(natural resins). The undesirable properties of the volatile alcohols are balanced by carefully selecting the volatile oil content while ensuring sufficient levels of volatile alcohols to enable solubility of the natural resins.

[0283] Modified Polysaccharide

[0284] The compositions of the present invention comprise one or more modified polysaccharides.

[0285] - "Sugar" is a monosaccharide or polysaccharide radical, as well as O-protected sugar derivatives thereof such as sugar esters of (C1-C6)alkyl carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, sugars containing amine groups and (C1-C4)alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose. Sugar radicals that may be mentioned include: sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose;

[0286] - the term "monosaccharide" refers to monosaccharides of formula Cx(H2O)x containing at least 5 carbon atoms, wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x=6; they may have the D or L configuration, and the α or β anomer, and also their salts and their solvates such as hydrates;

[0287] - The term "polysaccharide" refers to a polysaccharide which is a polymer consisting of several sugars bound together by O-glycosidic bonds, said polymer consisting of monosaccharide units as defined previously, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5, preferably 6, carbon atoms; in particular, the monosaccharide units are linked together via 1,4 or 1,6 bonds as α (alpha) or β (beta) anomers each of which may have L or D configuration, as well as salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed by a certain number of sugars (or monosaccharides) having the following general formula: - [ Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w-, wherein x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 and includes the end value, and preferably x=6, and y is an integer representing x-1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular between 3 and 3000 and includes the end value, more in particular between 5 and 2500, preferably between 10 and 2300, in particular between 15 and 1000 and includes the end value, more in particular between 20 and 500, preferably between 25 and 200;

[0288] Preferably, the polysaccharide is a thickening polymer.

[0289] The term "thickening polymer" means a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight in alcohol or in a fatty alcohol solution containing 50% ethanol, or in an oil chosen from liquid petrolatum, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol or cyclopentasiloxane, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of 1.5 % at 25° C. and 1 s. -1 The viscosity of the present invention is at least 100 cps and preferably at least 500 cps at a shear rate of 100 cps. The viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer, etc.).

[0290] The polysaccharides that can be used in the present invention are cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably cationic, nonionic or anionic polymers, better still nonionic polymers, which are modified by the presence of at least one hydrocarbyl aliphatic chain, which is cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or nonaromatic, containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) and / or p) (di)alkylamino groups as defined below and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below: i) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkyl, ii) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkyl, a) halogen, such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide -C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl, such as phenyl or furanyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl, such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, l) RX - wherein R represents a group selected from α) cycloalkyl, such as cyclohexyl, β) heterocycloalkyl, such as sugars, preferably monosaccharides such as glucose, γ) (hetero)aryl, such as phenyl, δ) cosmetic active agents, m) thiosulfate, and X represents a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) r or (thio)carbonyl, c') or a combination of a') and b'), such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea or sulfonamide; Ra represents a hydrogen atom, or (C1-C4)alkyl, or aryl (C1-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc may be the same or different and represent (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular only one substituent; and / or a') heteroatom, such as O, S, N(Ra) and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) r , (thio)carbonyl, c') or a combination of a') and b'), such as a (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea or sulfonamide, wherein r is equal to 1 or 2, Ra is as defined previously, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc are as defined previously.

[0291] "Polysaccharide" is as previously defined, with the addition that the sugar units -[C x (H 2 O) y )] w -or-[(CH 2 O) x ] w - optionally modified by substitution, oxidation, dehydration and / or reduction.

[0292] As the sugar unit of the polysaccharide usable in the present invention, preferably mentioned are glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0293] Mention may especially be made of modified polysaccharides of natural gums, such as those derived from tree or shrub exudates, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms or plants, which have been modified physically or by chemical or enzymatic reaction.

[0294] The natural gums may be selected from:

[0295] - Gum arabic (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0296] - Gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

[0297] - Karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0298] - Tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0299] - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

[0300] - Alginate (polymer of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0301] - carrageenan and furcellan (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0302] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0303] - Locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0304] - Fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0305] - Tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

[0306] - Konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0307] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydrogenated xanthan gum;

[0308] - Gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0309] - Scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0310] - Cellulose (glucose polymer);

[0311] - Starch (glucose polymer);

[0312] - Inulin and

[0313] - Pectin.

[0314] In particular, the modified polysaccharides are derived from: i) Gum arabic; ii) Ghatti gum; iii) Karaya gum; iv) Tragacanth gum; v) Agar; vi) Alginates; vii) Carrageenan and Furcellaran; viii) Guar gum; ix) Locust bean gum; x) Fenugreek gum; xi) Tamarind gum; xii) Konjac gum; xiii) Xanthan gum or dehydroxylated xanthan gum; xiv) Gellan gum; xv) Scleroglucan gum; xvi) Cellulose; xvii) Starch; xviii) Inulin; and xix) Pectin; preferably selected from xvi), xvii) and xvii), more preferably xvii).

[0315] The starch molecules xvii) used in the present invention can be of cereal plant origin as a plant source or also tubers. Thus, starch is selected from, for example, the starches of maize, rice, manioc, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and peas.

[0316] The starch can be chemically or physically modified: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0317] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is non-ionic.

[0318] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. Physical treatments that can be mentioned in particular are temperature.

[0319] As chemical treatments, esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation, metathesis and addition reactions can be mentioned. These treatments make it possible to provide polymers that can be in particular non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0320] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch and cellulose.

[0321] The modifiable starch molecules that can be used to manufacture the modified starch according to the present invention can be of cereal plant origin as a plant source or also tubers. Thus, starch is selected from, for example, the starches of maize, rice, manioc, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and peas.

[0322] The starch may be chemically or physically modified: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0323] The starch molecule xvii) may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular such as corn, potato, oat, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley or wheat, which has been modified to attach at least one hydrocarbyl aliphatic chain, which is cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) and / or p) (di) alkylamino groups as defined above and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined above. Hydrolysates of the above starches may also be used. The modified starch is preferably derived from potato starch.

[0324] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a polysaccharide ether known as an alkyl polysaccharide, wherein the alkyl group contains between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms.

[0325] Preferably, the alkylpolysaccharide b) according to the invention is derived from cellulose or guar gum or a mixture thereof.

[0326] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose, wherein the linear or branched alkyl residue contains between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms.

[0327] Alkylcelluloses are alkyl ethers of cellulose comprising chains of β-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of which have the potential to react according to the following reaction:

[0328] Cell-OM+R-Hal→Cell-OR+MHal

[0329] wherein Hal represents a halogen such as Cl, wherein M represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal such as Na or K, or an alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal such as Na, Cell. represents a polysaccharide group such as cellulose, wherein R represents a straight or branched chain alkyl group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl, and MHal represents the resulting salt such as sodium chloride.

[0330] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is selected from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose. Ethylcellulose is the ethyl ether of cellulose.

[0331] Total substitution of three hydroxyl groups per anhydroglucose unit will result in a degree of substitution of 3, in other words a content of alkoxy groups of between 40% and 60%, in particular of about 55% (54.88%).

[0332] The ethylcellulose polymer used in the composition according to the invention is preferably a polymer having a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups per anhydroglucose unit ranging from 2.5 to 2.6, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0333] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is an ethylcellulose in powder form. For example, it is sold under the trade name Ethocel Standard from Dow Chemicals, especially Ethocel Standard 7FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those sold by Ashland Inc. under the name Aqualon Ethylcellulose K-type, N-type and T-type, preferably N-type such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for implementing the present invention.

[0334] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide ether is an alkyl guar, i.e. guar viii), modified by replacing the hydrogen of the hydroxyl group with a linear or branched alkyl group containing between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, such as 2 carbon atoms.

[0335] The alkyl guar polymer used in the composition C1 or C'1 according to the invention is preferably ethyl guar.

[0336] Ethyl guar gum is known by the following INCI names: C 1 -C 5 Alkyl galactomannan.

[0337] More particularly, it has a degree of substitution ranging from 2 to 3 and especially from 2.5 to 2.8.

[0338] Alkylated guar gum (with C 1 -C 6 Guar gum, including ethyl guar, together with their methods of preparation are described in particular in patent application EP 708114 and document RD9537807 (October 1995).

[0339] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide b) is a polysaccharide ester, in particular an ester obtained by reaction between at least one polysaccharide such as dextrin and at least one linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acid containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0340] According to a specific embodiment, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is selected from xvi) cellulose or its derivatives such as hydroxy (C 1 -C 5 ) alkyl cellulose, xvii) starch and xviii) inulin; the polysaccharides xvi), xvii) and xviii) include at least one C 8 -C 30 A fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl group is a linear or branched, preferably a linear C 8 -C 30 Alkyl, and in particular:

[0341] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is selected from sugar or polysaccharide monoalkyl esters or polyalkyl esters.

[0342] Among the sugar or polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of dextrin or inulin alkyl or polyalkyl esters.

[0343] It may especially be a monoester or polyester of dextrin (dextrin is derived from starch xvii) and at least one fatty acid (such as RC(O)-OH) and especially corresponds to the following formula (XVIII):

[0344]

[0345] In formula (XVIII):

[0346] n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably in the range of 3 to 200, especially in the range of 20 to 150 and in particular in the range of 25 to 50,

[0347] ·R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be identical or different and are selected from hydrogen or acyl (RC(O)-), wherein the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 7 to 29, particularly 7 to 21, especially 11 to 19, more particularly 13 to 17 or even 15 carbon atoms, it being understood that the radical R 1 , R 2 or R 3 At least one of them is not hydrogen.

[0348] In particular, R 1 , R 2 and R3 represents a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (RC(O)-), wherein R is a hydrocarbon group as defined previously, provided that the group R 1 , R 2 or R 3 At least two of them are not hydrogen.

[0349] All groups R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may represent identical or different acyl radicals (RC(O)), and the acyl radicals are in particular identical.

[0350] In particular, in the general formula of the sugar ester that can be used in the invention, the previously described range of n is advantageously between 25 and 50 and is especially equal to 38.

[0351] In particular, when the radicals R 1 , R 2 and / or R 3 When an acyl group (RC(O)) is represented, it is derived from a fatty carboxylic acid RC(O)OH, preferably selected from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachidic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoarachidic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, octadecatenic, arachidonic or stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0352] Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate is used as the fatty acid ester of dextrin. This ester can be used alone or as a mixture with other esters.

[0353] Advantageously, the fatty acid esters of dextrin have a degree of substitution based on glucose units of less than or equal to 2.5, in particular ranging from 1.5 to 2.5, preferably from 2 to 2.5. The weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin esters may in particular be from 10 000 to 150 000, in particular from 12 000 to 100 000 and even from 15 000 to 80 000.

[0354] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is a dextrin ester, and preferably dextrin palmitate.

[0355] Dextrin esters, especially dextrin palmitate, are available from Chiba Flour under the name Rheopearl or Commercially available.

[0356] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified dextrin, preferably a dextrin ester, more particularly a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 12 -C 24 Fatty acid esters.

[0357] Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 14 -C 24 Fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or esters of mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the dextrin esters are selected from dextrin palmitate, such as Rheopearl sold by Chiba Flour Milling Co. and Rheopearl Dextrin myristate, such as that sold by Chiba Flour Milling Co. under the reference number Rheopearl Products sold under the index number Rheopearl Dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate sold under the reference Rheopearl WX, dextrin palmitate / hexyldecanoate sold under the reference Rheopearl WX, or mixtures thereof.

[0358] According to a preferred embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is dextrin palmitate.

[0359] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified inulin, preferably an inulin ester, more particularly a modified inulin ester with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 12 -C 24 Esters of fatty acids.

[0360] Preferably, the inulin ester is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 14 -C 24 Esters of fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, preferably stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0361] According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is stearoyl inulin, such as sold by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd. under the index Rheopearl and Rheopearl or a mixture thereof.

[0362] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified cellulose, preferably a cellulose ester, more particularly a cellulose ester with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 2 -C 24 Esters of acids.

[0363] Preferably, the cellulose ester is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 2 -C 10 Acid, preferably C 2-C 6 Acids, especially C 2 -C 4 Esters of acids such as acetic acid, butyric acid or mixtures thereof.

[0364] According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is cellulose acetate butyrate, such as sold by Eastman Chemical under the reference number Eastman Cellulose Acetate Butyrate.

[0365]

[0366] Among the polysaccharide esters, mention may also be made of pullulan esters. Pullulan is a polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units.

[0367] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a polysaccharide ester. The term "polysaccharide ester" means a polysaccharide in which at least one hydroxyl group is acidified to form an -OC(O)-R or -C(O)-OR ester group, wherein R indicates a saturated or unsaturated group of 2 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 11 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 17 carbon atoms, such as 13 carbon atoms.

[0368] Advantageously, the polysaccharide ester is myristoyl pullulan.

[0369] According to another embodiment, the modified polysaccharide of the invention is cationic. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments to obtain at least one cationic group are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch and cellulose.

[0370] The cationic group may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary amine, and comprises C 6 -C 30 Aliphatic chain.

[0371] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is selected from quaternized (poly) hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one aliphatic chain (or fatty chain), such as an alkyl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, an arylalkyl group, an alkylaryl group, or a mixture thereof. The alkyl group carried by the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably refers to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthracenyl. 8 -C 30 An example of a quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose of a fatty chain is Quatrisoft LM Quatrisoft LM-X Quatrisoft LM-X (C 12 Alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X (C 18 Crodacel sold by Croda Crodacel (C 12 Alkyl) and Crodacel (C 18 alkyl) products and Softcat SL sold by Dow Corning product.

[0372] The nonionic guar gum that can be used according to the present invention can be C 1 -C 20 (Poly)hydroxyalkylammonium groups, preferably C 1 -C 6 (Poly)hydroxyalkyl group modification; mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyltrimethylammonium, hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium, hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium and hydroxybutyltrimethylammonium halide groups, preferably hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium halide, preferably chloride.

[0373] Such cationic guar gums modified with hydroxyalkylammonium groups are available, for example, from the company Solvay under the trade name Cationic C-14S guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride F, C-13S guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride F, C-17 guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Excel Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, C-500STD guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, C-162 Hydroxypropyl guar gum hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, Optima Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and LS Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride for sale.

[0374] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from:

[0375] - polysaccharide ethers known as alkylpolysaccharides, wherein the alkyl group contains between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; preferably derived from cellulose or guar gum or a mixture thereof; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose, wherein the linear or branched alkyl residue contains between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms; preferably chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, preferably the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose; and

[0376] - Polysaccharide esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0377] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of: dextrin palmitate, myristoyl pullulan, ethylcellulose, ethyl guar gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0378] The total amount of modified polysaccharides present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 12% by weight and according to a particularly preferred mode from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0379] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of resin present in the composition and the total amount of modified polysaccharide ranges from 0.05 to 200, more preferably from 0.1 to 100, more preferably from 0.2 to 50, or better still from 0.5 to 40, preferably from 0.5 to 20, preferably from 1 to 10.

[0380] Other Optional Components of the Oil Phase

[0381] Wax

[0382] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0383] The term "wax" means a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

[0384] In particular, the waxes suitable for use in the present invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0385] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a wax in a content ranging from 0.2% to 30% by weight, particularly from 0.5% to 20% and more particularly from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0386] According to a particular form of the invention, the composition of the invention is solid, in particular anhydrous. It may thus be in the form of a stick.

[0387] Pasty Compound

[0388] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more pasty compounds.

[0389] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, with an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state and comprising a liquid part and a solid part at a temperature of 23°C.

[0390] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oils, one or more non-volatile oils, optionally water and optionally one or more organic solvents other than the oil a) and the alcohol b) defined according to the invention.

[0391] Advantageously, the total content of oily phase ranges from 5% to 100% by weight, preferably from 10% to 98% by weight, preferably from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0392] According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one continuous oily phase having a composition as defined above.

[0393] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of an oily composition, in particular an anhydrous oily composition, such as an oily dispersion or an oily solution.

[0394] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally has an aqueous phase.

[0395] Advantageously, the total content of oily phase ranges from 5% to 100% by weight, preferably from 10% to 98% by weight, preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0396] Aqueous Phase

[0397] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients, such as a water-soluble solvent.

[0398] Water suitable for the present invention may be floral water such as cornflower water, and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche-Posay water, and / or thermal water.

[0399] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0400] The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions of the present invention may also be volatile.

[0401] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monohydric alcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms (such as ethanol and isopropanol), diols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms (such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentanediol, glycerol and dipropylene glycol), C 3-C 4 Ketone and C 2 -C 4 aldehyde.

[0402] The aqueous phase is preferably present in a concentration ranging from 2% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0403] Surfactant

[0404] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition further comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic or ionic surfactants or a mixture thereof.

[0405] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain any surfactant.

[0406] The term "surfactant" means a compound that changes the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactants are amphiphilic molecules that have two parts of different polarity, one part is a non-polar lipophilic part (retains fatty substances) and the other part is a polar hydrophilic part (miscible or soluble in water). The lipophilic part is usually a fatty chain, and the other water-miscible part is polar and / or protic.

[0407] The term "ionic" means anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic.

[0408] The term "fatty chain" means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain containing more than 6 atoms, preferably between 6 and 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0409] Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc, 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, for the preparation of W / O emulsions, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8. The HLB of the surfactant used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0410] According to a first particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains at least one silicone or non-silicone nonionic surfactant.

[0411] Among the nonionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols, alone or as a mixture, these three types of compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and containing fatty chains containing, for example, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides (preferably containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide), polyglycerolated fatty amides (containing an average of 1 to 5 and in particular 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups), oxyethylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan (containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide), fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucosamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10 -C 14 ) alkylamine oxide or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide.

[0412] The surfactants in particular amount to 0.01% to 30% by weight of the composition, preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 10% by weight and better still 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0413] Pigment

[0414] According to a particular mode of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one pigment.

[0415] The term "pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in aqueous media and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored and may be mineral and / or organic.

[0416] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 2% of pigment, preferably at least 5% by weight of pigment, more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight of pigment, in particular from 10 to 30% by weight of pigment and preferably from 9 to 20% by weight of pigment relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0417] According to a specific embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0418] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the mineral pigments used in the invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, or metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 、Ti 3 O 5 、Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, and TiO 2 A mixture of ZrO 2 、ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 、CeO 2 , or ZnS.

[0419] The size of the pigments used in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0420] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigment has a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0421] These sizes were obtained using the MasterSizer from Malvern. The measurement is carried out by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the type 1000, making it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range that can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data are processed based on the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most applicable to size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows the determination of the effective particle size. This theory is described in particular in the following publication: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0422] D

[50] represents the maximum dimension possessed by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0423] In the context of the present invention, mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of the mineral pigments produced, for example, by MIYOSHI KASEI under the reference number Sold titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0424] Mention may also be made, as mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, of nacres.

[0425] The term "nacre" is understood to mean any form of coloured particles (which may or may not be iridescent), especially produced by a certain mollusk in its shell, or alternatively synthetically, and which have a colouring effect via optical interference.

[0426] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica titanium coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with organic dyes and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed.

[0427] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural micas covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

[0428] Among the commercially available nacres, mention may be made of the nacres sold by Engelhard and (mica-based), marketed by Merck Mother of pearl, marketed by Eckart Mica-based nacres and those sold by Sun Chemical Synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearl.

[0429] These mother-of-pearl may more particularly have yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colors or hues.

[0430] As an example of mother-of-pearl that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of the pearls sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold (Timica), Gold (Cloisonne), Sparkle (Timica), Gold (Chromalite) and Monarch gold Gold mother-of-pearl marketed as Cloisonne; in particular by Merck under the name Bronze (17384)(Colorona) and (17353) (Colorona) and bronze mother-of-pearl sold under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne) by Engelhard & Co.; in particular, mother-of-pearl sold under the name Orange by Engelhard & Co. (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR (Cosmica) and by Merck under the name Passion (Colorona) and Matte orange Orange mother-of-pearl sold by Microna; in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu-antiquecopper (Cloisonne) and Brown Brown-colored mother-of-pearl sold as Chromalite; especially by the Engelhard Company under the name Copper Mother-of-pearl with a copper hue sold by Timica; in particular by Merck under the name Sienna Mother-of-pearl with a red hue sold by (17386) (Colorona); especially by the Engelhard Company under the name Yellow Pearl. Mother-of-pearl with a yellow hue sold as Chromalite; in particular by the Engelhard Company under the name Sunstone Red-colored mother-of-pearl with a golden hue sold by Gemtone; in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opal Pink mother-of-pearl sold by Gemtone; specifically by Engelhard & Co. under the name Nu antique bronze 240 Black mother-of-pearl with a golden hue sold by Timica; in particular by Merck under the name Matte (17433) Blue mother-of-pearl marketed by (Microna); in particular by Merck under the name Xirona White mother-of-pearl with a silvery hue sold by Merck under the name Indian Gold green, pink and orange mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, sold by Xirona.

[0431] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having optical effects that differ from simple conventional coloring effects, i.e. uniform and stable effects as produced by conventional dyes, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" means the absence of the effect that the color changes with the viewing angle or also changes in response to temperature changes.

[0432] For example, such materials can be chosen from particles with metallic shimmer, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in order to provide a simultaneous display of two effects, indeed even with novel effects according to the invention.

[0433] The particles with a metallic tint that can be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:

[0434] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,

[0435] - particles comprising a mono-material or multi-material organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially covered with at least one layer having a metallic sheen, the layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and

[0436] - a mixture of said particles.

[0437] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, mention may be made of, for example, Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Preferred metals are Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g. bronze and brass).

[0438] The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0439] Examples of such particles that may be mentioned include aluminum particles, such as those marketed by Silberline under the name Starbrite 1200 and by Aika Corporation under the name The ones that are sold.

[0440] Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or alloy mixtures, such as those sold under the reference number 2844 by Radium Bronze, metal pigments (for example aluminum or bronze), such as those sold under the name Rotosafe by Eckart Those sold by Eka under the name Visionaire Bright Silica-coated aluminum particles are sold, as well as metal alloy particles, for example by Eckart under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Silica-coated bronze (an alloy of copper and zinc) powder is sold.

[0441] They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass The ones that are sold.

[0442] The goniochromatic colorant may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colorants.

[0443] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used in the compositions prepared according to the invention are structures such as: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments with this structure are sold by DuPont de Nemours; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, a pigment with this structure is produced by Flex under the name Sales; MoS 2 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / MoS 2 ;Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 and Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 Pigments with these structures are marketed by BASF under the name Sales; MoS 2 / SiO 2 / Mica-Oxide / SiO 2 / MoS 2 ;Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Mica-Oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 ; TiO 2 / SiO2 / TiO 2 and TiO 2 / Al 2 O 3 / TiO 2 ; SnO / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / SnO;Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 ; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments with these structures are marketed by Merck (Darmstadt) under the name These pigments are marketed, for example, by Merck under the name Xirona Pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure are marketed by Merck under the name Xirona Indian Pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure are marketed by Merck under the name Xirona Caribbean Pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure are marketed by . Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from Shiseido. Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers. Thus, in Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 In the case of 320 to 350nm SiO 2 The color of the layer changes from green-gold to red-gray; for 380 to 400nm SiO 2 layer, from red to gold; for 410 to 420nm SiO 2 layer, from purple to green; for 430 to 440nm SiO 2 layer, changing from copper to red.

[0444] As an example of a pigment having a polymer multilayer structure, mention may be made of the pigments sold by 3M under the name Color The ones that are sold.

[0445] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, use may be made of, for example, those sold by Chenix and those sold by Wacker under the name The ones sold by HC.

[0446] Hydrophobically Coated Pigment

[0447] According to a particular form of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, and is in particular as described in detail below.

[0448] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous, considering that it can be combined with large amounts of water in relatively large quantities. Furthermore, in the case of treating them with hydrophobic compounds, they show a major affinity for the oily gel phase which can then transport them.

[0449] Of course, the composition according to the invention can concurrently contain uncoated pigments.

[0450] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0451] For the purposes of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally means a total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant that is absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment.

[0452] The surface treated pigments can be prepared according to chemical, electrical, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0453] Surfactants can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and covalent bond formation.

[0454] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating with pigments.

[0455] The coating may represent 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0456] The coating can be produced, for example, by absorbing a liquid surfactant onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the particles with said surfactant under stirring, optionally with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the cosmetic or care composition.

[0457] The coating can be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and formation of covalent bonds between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in patent US 4,578,266.

[0458] Chemical surface treatment may include diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited at the surface of the pigment.

[0459] Lipophilic or Hydrophobic Treatment Agent

[0460] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0461] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: silicone surfactant; fluorinated surfactant; fluorosilicone surfactant; metal soap; N-acylamino acid or its salt; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl titanium triisostearate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal wax; polar synthetic wax; fatty ester; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0462] Silicone Surfactant

[0463] According to a specific embodiment, the pigments may be completely or partially surface-treated with a compound having a silicone nature.

[0464] The silicone surfactant may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0465] The term "organopolysiloxane compound" means a compound having a structure including alternating silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and including an organic group bonded to the silicon atoms.

[0466] Non-Elastomeric Organopolysiloxane

[0467] As non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, mention may in particular be made of polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

[0468] The alkoxy group may be represented by a RO- group such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, an aryl such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or a substituted aryl such as phenylethyl.

[0469] A method for surface treating a pigment with polymethylhydrogensiloxane comprises dispersing the pigment in an organic solvent and then adding a silicone compound. When the mixture is heated, a covalent bond is formed between the silicone compound and the pigment surface.

[0470] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular selected from polydimethylsiloxane.

[0471] Alkylsilane and Alkoxysilane

[0472] Silanes having alkoxy functions are described in particular by Witucki in A Silane Primer, Chemistry and Applications of Alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pp. 57-60, 1993.

[0473] Alkoxysilanes such as those with the index Milquet (OSI Specialities) and Prosil Alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold by PCR (PCR) can be used for coating the pigments.

[0474] Use of alkyl polysiloxanes having reactive end groups such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino or imino groups in applications

[0475] Described in JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for treating pigments.

[0476] Silicone-Acrylate Polymer

[0477] Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone may be used, as described in patents US 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477 and in patents US 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582.

[0478] Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising units of the following formula (II) in their structure:

[0479] [Chemical formula 11]

[0480]

[0481] Among them G 1 The groups are the same or different and represent hydrogen or C 1 -C 10 Alkyl or phenyl; G 2 The groups are the same or different, indicating that C 1 -C 10 Alkylene; G 3represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G 4 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer that may be between 10 and 350 and c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is not 0.

[0482] Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one of the following features and even more preferably has all of the following features:

[0483] -G 1 The group represents an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group;

[0484] -n is not zero, and G 2 The group represents a divalent C 1 -C 3 Group, preferably propylene;

[0485] -G 3 denotes a polymer radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;

[0486] -G 4 It means at least one (meth) acrylic acid (C 1 -C 10 )alkyl ester type, preferably isobutyl (meth)acrylate or methyl (meth)acrylate type.

[0487] Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and polymethyl(meth)acrylate type are grafted via thiopropylene-type linkages.

[0488] Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate type are grafted via thiopropylene-type linkages.

[0489] Silicone Resin

[0490] The silicone surfactant may be selected from silicone resins as previously defined.

[0491] Fluorinated Surfactant

[0492] The pigments may be completely or partially surface treated with compounds having a fluorinated nature.

[0493] The fluorinated surfactant may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide or polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkylperfluoropolyether groups.

[0494] The term "perfluoroalkyl" means an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0495] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135 and are sold under the trade name Fomblin by the company Montefluos.

[0496] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in the application JP H05-86984. It is possible to use the fluorinated alkyl phosphates manufactured by Asahi Glass under the reference number Asahi Guard Perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine for sale.

[0497] Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and organic perfluorinated hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

[0498] Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the series of linear alkanes, such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

[0499] Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin, perfluoro(methyldecalin) and perfluoro(C 3 -C 5 Alkylcyclohexane) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

[0500] Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrophenanthrene such as tetrafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0501] Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of the perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene, such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoro-1-methylnaphthalene.

[0502] As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with fluorinated compounds, mention may be made of:

[0503] -Daito Kasei Co., Ltd. with the index number PF 5Yellow Yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate for sale;

[0504] - Produced by Daito Kasei Co., Ltd. under the index number PF 5Red R Red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate for sale;

[0505] - Produced by Daito Kasei Co., Ltd. under the index number PF 5Black Black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate for sale;

[0506] - Produced by Daito Kasei Co., Ltd. under the index number PF 5TiO2 CR Titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate for sale;

[0507] -Iron Oxide Yellow by Toshiki Yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether for sale;

[0508] - Registered by Cardre Inc. under the index number D&C Red 7 DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold; and

[0509] -Warner-Jenkinson, Inc., under the index T DC Red 6 / PTFE for sale.

[0510] Fluorosilicone Surfactant

[0511] The pigments may be completely or partially surface treated with compounds having fluorosilicone properties.

[0512] The fluorosilicone compound may be selected from perfluoroalkyldimethylpolysiloxane, perfluoroalkylsilane and perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilane.

[0513] Perfluoroalkylsilanes that may be mentioned include the products sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone and

[0514] As an example of a commercial index of a pigment treated with a fluorosilicone compound, mention may be made of the product sold by Advanced Dermaceuticals International under the index Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide Titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone for sale.

[0515] Other Lipophilic Surfactants

[0516] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from:

[0517] (i) Metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt.

[0518] As metal soaps, mention may in particular be made of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular of those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0519] The metal of the metal soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium.

[0520] As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and a mixture thereof may be used.

[0521] The hydrophobic treating agent may also be selected from ii) fatty acids, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid or palmitic acid.

[0522] The hydrophobic treating agent may also be selected from iii) N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, which may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl.

[0523] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0524] The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.

[0525] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0526] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0527] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyl titanium triisostearate.

[0528] As an example of a pigment treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), mention may be made of the pigment sold by the company Kobo under the trade reference number (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) sold as those.

[0529] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.

[0530] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from vii) natural plant or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes.

[0531] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from viii) fatty esters, especially jojoba esters.

[0532] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from ix) phospholipids.

[0533] The waxes mentioned among the above-listed compounds may be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined later.

[0534] They may in particular be hydrocarbyl, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0535] The term "polar wax" means a wax containing a compound comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may be, for example, alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid groups. Among the polar waxes, polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes are not included.

[0536] In particular, polar waxes have an average Hansen solubility parameter δa at 25°C such that δa>0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 And it is better to have δa>1(J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 :

[0537]

[0538] where δp and δh are the polar contribution and the contribution of a specific interaction type to the Hansen solubility parameter, respectively.

[0539] The definition of solvents in three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is described in the paper by CM Hansen, The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967):

[0540] -δh characterizes the specific interaction force (hydrogen bonding type, acid / base interaction or donor / acceptor bond, etc.);

[0541] -δp characterizes the Debye interaction between permanent dipoles and also the Cossom interaction between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0542] Parameters δp and δh are expressed in (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 express.

[0543] Polar waxes are formed in particular from molecules which, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, also contain heteroatoms such as O, N and P in their chemical structure.

[0544] As non-limiting examples of these polar waxes, mention may in particular be made of natural polar waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax and Chinese insect wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax or montan wax.

[0545] According to a specific embodiment, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; isopropyl titanium triisostearate; natural plant or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0546] According to particularly preferred embodiments, the pigments can be coated with N-acylated amino acids and / or salts thereof, in particular with glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, or with fatty esters, in particular with jojoba esters.

[0547] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, especially stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0548] As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may more particularly be made of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, such as sold by Miyoshi Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the reference NAI.

[0549] Pigment Not Coated with Hydrophobic Compound

[0550] As mentioned above, the composition may additionally contain pigments which are not coated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0551] These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or may be uncoated.

[0552] These pigments may be mineral pigments, in particular as defined above.

[0553] These pigments may also be organic pigments.

[0554] The term "organic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. The organic pigment can be chosen in particular from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, peronone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0555] The organic pigments may be selected, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments indexed in the color index with the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments indexed in the color index with the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments indexed in the color index with the numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, orange pigments indexed in the color index CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0556] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments may in particular consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder providing for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0557] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" is understood to mean an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0558] The inorganic substrate on which the dye is adsorbed is, for example, alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate, or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0559] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0560] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0561] Nature of the Hydrophilic Coating

[0562] As described above, these other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0563] The hydrophilic compound enabling the surface treatment of the pigments in order to optimize their dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biopolymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0564] As examples of biopolymers, mention may be made of polymers based on monomers of the carbohydrate type.

[0565] More particularly, mention may be made of biosaccharide gums; chitosan and its derivatives, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, gluconate chitosan, adipate chitosan, glycolate chitosan, lactate chitosan, etc.; chitin and its derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitosan, or chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galactoarabinan; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0566] As examples of carbohydrates, mention may be made in particular of polyhydroxy aldehydes or polyhydroxy ketones of the following general formula: x (H 2 O) y

[0567] where x and y can range from 1 to 1 000 000.

[0568] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0569] As examples of carbohydrates, mention may in particular be made of amylodextrin, β-glucan, cyclodextrin, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, wheat starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose or sodium chondroitin sulfate.

[0570] Alone or with three (C 1 -C 20 ) Alkylsilane combination C 1 -C 20 Alkylene glycol or C 1 -C 20 Alkylene glycol ethers can also be used as surface treatment agents.

[0571] By way of example, mention may be made of pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilanes, for example the pigments treated with PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane sold under the name SW pigments by the company Kobo.

[0572] Silicones, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes having hydrophilic groups (also known by the name dimethylpolysiloxane copolyol or alkyl dimethylpolysiloxane copolyol) can also be suitable for use in the present invention as surface treatment agents. In particular, such dimethylpolysiloxanes can contain as repeating units C 1 -C 20 Alkylene oxides, such as ethylene oxide or propylene oxide.

[0573] An example that may be mentioned is the product manufactured by Sensient Corporation under the name LCW Pigment sells pigments treated with PEG-12-dimethicone.

[0574] The amount of pigment coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or of uncoated pigment is dictated in particular by the intended use of the cosmetic composition in question, and the adjustment of this amount is obviously within the capabilities of the formulator of the composition.

[0575] According to a specific embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one pigment chosen from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular coated with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, in particular stearoyl glutamate such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0576] Additive

[0577] The compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as organic UV screening agents other than those mentioned above; inorganic UV screening agents; humectants, such as polyols, for example glycerol, propylene glycol or pentylene glycol; fillers; dyes; thickeners or gelling agents; preservatives; chelating agents; fragrances; and mixtures thereof.

[0578] Filler

[0579] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler of organic or inorganic nature which makes it possible in particular to impart to the composition the additional properties of improved stability, durability, hiding and / or mattness.

[0580] The term "filler" is understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape, provided in insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of inorganic or organic nature, make it possible to give body or solidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the make-up.

[0581] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may have lamellar, spherical, spherical or fibrous form or any other form intermediate between these defined forms.

[0582] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0583] As examples of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, composites of silica and titanium dioxide (such as those sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.), series), or hydrophobic silica aerogel.

[0584] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of polyamide (Atochem Orgasol), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene or acrylic acid copolymer (from Dow Corning ) formed powders, lauroyl lysine, hollow polymer microspheres, such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, e.g. (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder (Plastic ), silicone resin microbeads (e.g., from Toshiba ), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), or a powder of a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with a silicone resin, in particular with a silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5538793. It can also be a cellulose powder, such as that sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads range.

[0585] Silica Particles

[0586] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises silica particles chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, silica particles other than the aforementioned particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0587] i) Hydrophobic Silica Aerogel

[0588] Hydrophobic silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing the liquid component of silica gel with air (especially by drying). They are usually synthesized in a liquid medium by a sol-gel process and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used supercritical fluid being supercritical CO. 2 This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of pores and materials. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0589] The hydrophobic silica aerogel used according to the invention is preferably a silica silylate aerogel (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE).

[0590] The term "hydrophobic silica" means that the surface of the silica is treated with a silylating agent, for example, a silane halide such as an alkylchlorosilane, a siloxane, in particular a dimethylsiloxane such as hexamethyldisiloxane or a silazane, so as to form a hydrophobic silica with Si-R n Any silica having silyl groups functionalized with OH groups, such as trimethylsilyl.

[0591] Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

[0592] Aerogel particles formed from hydrophobic silica which has been surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will in particular be used.

[0593] The term "hydrophobic aerogel particles" means particles of any aerogel type which exhibit a water absorption capacity at the wet point of less than 0.1 ml / g, ie less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particles.

[0594] The absorption capacity measured at the wet point and indicated as WP corresponds to the amount of solvent (expressed in grams or milliliters) that needs to be added to 1 g of granules in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for determining the solvent (water or oil) absorption of powders described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of solvent adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder, measured by the wet point measurement method described below:

[0595] A glass plate (25×25 mm) is placed on a balance, an amount w of 1 g of powder is weighed out on the glass plate and then a solvent (e.g. water or isononanoate) is added dropwise. The solvent is gradually added to the powder, all kneading regularly (every 3 to 4 drops) using a spatula. When a homogeneous paste is obtained, the addition of solvent is stopped. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without breaking or forming lumps. The weight of solvent required to obtain the wet point is recorded. The average of three tests is taken. Since the density of the solvent is known, the volume Vs (in ml) of the solvent used is deduced from it. The solvent absorption rate corresponds to the ratio Vs / w.

[0596] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention preferably have an oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0597] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a particle size in the range of 200 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200m 2 / g and even better 600 to 800m 2 A specific surface area (SM) per unit weight of / g, and a size expressed as a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) of less than 1500 μm and preferably in the range of 1 to 30 μm, preferably 5 to 25 μm, better still 5 to 20 μm and even better still 5 to 15 μm.

[0598] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen adsorption method known as the BET (Bruno-Emmett-Teller) method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938 and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles under consideration.

[0599] The size of the aerogel particles according to the invention can be sized using a Mastersizer from Malvern The measurements are made by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the type 1000. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination of the effective particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the following publication: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0600] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a hydrophobicity in the range of 0.02 g / cm 3 Up to 0.10g / cm 3 And preferably 0.02g / cm 3 Up to 0.08g / cm 3 The tap density.

[0601] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following scheme, known as the tap density scheme:

[0602] 40 g of powder were poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder was then placed in a Stav from Stampf Volumeter. machine; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of the tapped powder is then measured directly on the cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf is expressed in cm 3 denoted by , and m is denoted by g).

[0603] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a particle size ranging from 5 to 60 μm. 2 / cm 3 , preferably 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 And also better 15 to 40m 2 / cm 3 The specific surface area per unit volume (S V ).

[0604] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relationship:

[0605] S V =S M .ρ, where ρ is expressed in g / cm 3 represents the tap density, and S M m 2 The specific surface area per unit weight expressed by % / g is as defined above.

[0606] According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles used are inorganic and more particularly hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the properties previously described.

[0607] As hydrophobic silica aerogel that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of, for example, the aerogel sold by the company Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate), the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a particle size ranging from 600 to 800 microns. 2 / g of specific surface area per unit weight.

[0608] Reference may also be made to the Aerogel TLD by Cabot Corporation under the reference number Aerogel OGD Aerogel TLD Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT Aerogel for sale.

[0609] More particularly, use will be made of Aerogels marketed as aerogels (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE) with particles having an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a particle size ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g of specific surface area per unit weight.

[0610] The Cabot Corporation will also use Aerogel MT Aerogels marketed as aerogels (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE) with particles having an average size ranging from 2 to 25 microns and a particle size ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g of specific surface area per unit weight.

[0611] The hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0612] Other Silica Particles

[0613] Other silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated. Thus, mention may be made of the silica produced by Hoffmann Mineral under the name Sillitin Sillitin Sillitin Sillitin and Sillitin Provided silica.

[0614] They may be fumed silica.

[0615] These fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of volatile silicon compounds in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing finely divided silica. This method makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas with a large number of silanol groups on their surface. The surface of the silica can be chemically modified by chemical reactions, causing a reduction in the number of silanol groups. In particular, the silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups: hydrophobic silicas are then obtained.

[0616] The hydrophobic group can be:

[0617] (a) trimethylsiloxy groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. According to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995), silicas thus treated are called silylated silicas;

[0618] (b) Dimethylsiloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. According to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995), the silica thus treated is known as dimethylsilylated silica.

[0619] As silicon dioxide powders other than silicon aerogels, mention may be made more particularly of:

[0620] -Made by Miyoshi under the name Silica Beads Porous silica microspheres for sale; Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. H51 or H33;

[0621] - AGC SITECH Company under the name SA H and SA Commercially available polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres;

[0622] - precipitated silica microspheres, for example coated with a mineral wax, such as polyethylene, and manufactured in particular by Evonik Degussa under the name OK Sale.

[0623] As silicon dioxide powder, use will more particularly be made of porous silicon dioxide microspheres, such as those marketed by the company Miyoshi under the name Silica Beads and Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. H51 and Those sold by H33.

[0624] Silica particles other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and very preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0625] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention will comprise a mixture comprising at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles (such as those described above) and other silica particles (such as those described above), in particular porous silica microspheres.

[0626] Additional Dye

[0627] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one further dye, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0628] For obvious reasons, this amount is susceptible to considerable variation with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dye in question, and its adjustment is certainly within the capabilities of a person skilled in the art.

[0629] Additional dyes suitable for use in the present invention may be water-soluble, but may also be fat-soluble.

[0630] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color.

[0631] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus or elder), caramel or riboflavin.

[0632] Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel coloring.

[0633] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent miscible with fatty substances and is capable of imparting a color.

[0634] As liposoluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsanthin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0635] Form of the Composition

[0636] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0637] According to a first embodiment of the present invention, the composition is a single-phase oily composition.

[0638] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, in which case it is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, or possibly a composition with several separate phases (eg a two-phase composition).

[0639] The term "water-in-oil emulsion" or W / O emulsion means a composition comprising immiscible oily and aqueous phases; the aqueous phase is dispersed in the oily phase (described as continuous) in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0640] In the case of the compositions of the invention, presentation forms with a continuous oily phase are advantageous, in which the permanence performance driver is provided by the natural resin dissolved in the oily phase. These forms additionally facilitate the dispersion of the pigments, their homogeneity and therefore optimize the hiding obtained by the film obtained after application of the composition according to the invention (as demonstrated in the examples).

[0641] The composition of the invention is particularly suitable for producing cosmetics with a fluid texture. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is more particularly in the form of a viscoelastic to viscous liquid with a G* modulus (viscoelastic modulus) between 0.1 and 20 000 Pa, more particularly between 1 and 5000 Pa, or even between 10 and 1000 Pa. The G* modulus is measured with a controlled stress rheometer and is taken on the viscoelastic platform at 25°C.

[0642] Application

[0643] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0644] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0645] Therefore, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention may advantageously be in the form of a primer composition.

[0646] The composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of a liquid product for making up the lips, in particular in the form of a liquid lipstick.

[0647] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, the composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and in particular the face. Thus, the composition can be a foundation, an eyeshadow, or a blush.

[0648] The composition may also be a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer or corrector, an eyebrow product, a skin care product, a sun protection product, a hygiene product, or also a hair styling product or a hair dye product; or even a nail varnish.

[0649] Such compositions are prepared in particular according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0650] The invention is explained in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percent.

[0651] The following examples allow the present invention to be more clearly understood, but are not limiting in nature.

[0652] Examples

[0653] Ingredients:

[0654] [Table 1]

[0655]

[0656] [Table 2]

[0657]

[0658] Preparation of the Composition Procedures and equipment used for each test:

[0659] Each resin (A, B, C) and each gellant (D, E, F, G, H) was used in the weight proportions indicated in the following table in a mixture of ethanol and isododecane at ambient temperature and according to the following protocol:

[0660] - Mix the resin and solvent under magnetic stirring at 1200 rpm at an ambient temperature of 25°C for 24 hours

[0661] - The gelling agent is added to the resin / solvent mixture by spraying.

[0662] - Keep stirring until the resin is completely dissolved and the polymer is deployed.

[0663] - Weigh the assembly (beaker + mixture), readjust the amount of volatile solvent (if slight loss of volatiles is observed).

[0664] - The following pigmented starting materials are then added using a rotor-stator at ambient temperature (25°C): Red 7 organic pigment or coated iron oxide mineral pigment.

[0665] Protocol for Evaluating Dry Rub Resistance and Rub Resistance in the Presence of Oil

[0666] The rub resistance of some compositions was evaluated by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after abrasion, for which test the protocol is described in detail below.

[0667] Scheme for spreading the composition into a film:

[0668] The product is spread on a spreading table (Elcometer 4340Applicator) so that the spreading speed and also the spreading distance can be adjusted. The table is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump so that the support on which the product is spread cannot move. An uncoated contrast card with a black background and a white background (1byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831) is used. The spreading thickness can be adjusted using a square spreader placed on the support so that the platform is set to spread by leveling when it is in operation. Each edge face of the spreader can achieve a spreading with different thicknesses ranging from 25μm to 200μm. The selected thickness is 25μm so as to be close to the film thickness in vivo. During spreading, a weight of 960g is added to the spreader. The spreading rate is set to 1" / second, i.e. 2.54cm / s. The film is dried on a heating plate at 34°C and ambient RH (50% RH) for 24 hours.

[0669] Friction resistance test solution:

[0670] The rub resistance test is carried out by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after abrasion. Veraclean TM Polish Plus) was attached to the 25 μm spreader edge surface for abrasion. During abrasion, a 960 g weight was added to the spreader. The stage speed was set to 2.54 cm / s.

[0671] The color before and after abrasion was measured using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. The measurement under contact enables the absence of stray light to be guaranteed.

[0672] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; d / 8° geometry.

[0673] The measurement of the color on two backgrounds (black background BB and white background WB) enables the hiding power of the foundation to be characterized by calculating the contrast ratio (CR%), i.e. YBB / YWB x 100, where YBB and YWB are the brightness values ​​measured on the black background and white background respectively, the higher these values, the greater the hiding power of the foundation.

[0674] To evaluate the friction resistance, the contrast ratio before friction (CR dry deposit, %) and the contrast ratio after wear (CR friction dry deposit, %) were measured respectively. The ratio [CR friction dry deposit / CR dry deposit]*100 as a percentage represents the resistance of the film to friction: the higher the ratio, the greater the resistance of the film to friction.

[0675] Note: For the acquisition of each contrast value, at least 2 comparison cards were used for each composition, and each card was evaluated with 3 CR measurements. Therefore, each CR value represents the average of 6 measurements.

[0676] The dry film rub resistance was tested for two types of compositions (foundation prototypes) colored 1) with an organic pigment and then 2) with iron oxide.

[0677] The film's tolerance to olive oil was tested for the composition colored with an organic pigment (lip product prototype).

[0678] In Vitro Test for Fragmentation on FP40 Elastomeric Substrate - Evaluation of Adhesion and Cohesion Properties of Deposits

[0679] Using an aluminum template (aperture 20 mm long and 10 mm wide, thickness 100 μm), the film was manually cast onto an FP40 carrier (test specimen 60 mm long and 10 mm wide, the FP40 substrate is made of butadiene-nitrile elastomer and contains a plasticizer (diethylhexyl sebacate); supplied by BRAMMER, reference product JOINT DIVERS PLAQUE (hybrid plate seal) HPYF000504N4I01, 60X1000x2 strips made of FP40, brand BUSAK-LU) with a pipette, and then leveled to obtain a film with a thickness of 100 μm. These test specimens were then left to dry on a hot plate at 35 °C for 24 h. A fragmentation test was carried out using a TA.XT texture analyzer from Stable Micro Systems with a tensile module. During the tensile test, the test specimen was placed between the jaws 1 cm from the deposit on each side, and then a stress was applied to it at a constant speed of 300 mm / min up to 100% deformation. The anti-fragmentation was observed by eye and graded between 1 (the whole deposit fragmented) and 5 (no cracks at all). Examples of the visual effects associated with different scores are presented below.

[0680] [Table 3]

[0681]

[0682] Examples 1 to 23 - Results of Rub Resistance of Compositions Containing Candelilla Resin and / or Ethyl Cellulose

[0683] [Table 4]

[0684]

[0685]

[0686] Compositions outside the invention containing only candelilla resins show a lack of tolerance in the presence of olive oil. Compositions outside the invention containing only ethylcellulose show a lack of resistance to chipping, with a very high degree of cracking of the deposit occurring, which is synonymous with a lack of comfort on the skin.

[0687] Only the composition of the invention (containing the combination of candelilla resin and ethylcellulose) simultaneously exhibits excellent dry rub resistance, good resistance in the presence of olive oil and good chipping resistance.

[0688] [Table 5]

[0689]

[0690] The formulations of the invention containing candelilla resin in combination with myristoyl pullulan or with C1-5 alkyl galactomannan also exhibited good dryness resistance and good tolerance in the presence of olive oil.

[0691] [Table 6]

[0692]

[0693] *The coated iron oxides have the following INCI names: Iron Oxides (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide.

[0694] The composition of the invention containing iron oxide in the presence of a resin and a modified polysaccharide also exhibits excellent dry rub resistance (about 100%).

[0695] Examples 24 to 26 - Results of Dry Rub Resistance in the Presence of Glycerol Rosinate or Rub Resistance under Olive Oil Result

[0696] [Table 7]

[0697]

[0698] The composition of the present invention containing a modified polysaccharide in combination with glycerol rosinate resin exhibits excellent dry rub resistance and good resistance in the presence of oil.

[0699] Examples 27 to 29 - Results of Dry Rub Resistance in the Presence of Hippophae rhamnoides or Rub Resistance under Olive Oil

[0700] [Table 8]

[0701]

[0702] The compositions of the present invention containing various oily gelling agents in combination with Aesculus hippocastanum resin exhibit excellent dry rub resistance and good tolerance in the presence of oil.

[0703] Examples 30 to 38 - Viscosity Test

[0704] Protocol for Measuring Viscosity

[0705] The support used was a strip of "Supplale": synthetic leather sheet (polyurethane adhesively bonded to polyester cotton fabric), white in colour and having dimensions of 150 mm x 25 mm, sold under the name Supplale, code DFSUP15025B, supplier Soudotique).

[0706] The product was deposited on the Supplale strip over a length of 10 cm using an applicator in order to obtain a uniform deposit (the applicator was passed 4 times over the entire length, re-immersing the applicator in the product between passes). The carrier with the sample was left to dry for 1 h at 32°C and ambient RH (50% RH) on a thermostatically controlled plate. Next the specimen was placed on the bottom of a texture analyzer or on a metal plate provided with double-sided tape in order to fix it. The viscosity was measured using a TAXT2 plus texture analyzer. A 20 mm diameter tape containing a circle of fixed white The axis (tip) is positioned on the texture analyzer.

[0707] The parameters for the compression test regarding retention over time were as follows: approach speed (or pre-speed): 1 mm / s; speed (starting from contact detection): 0.5 mm / s; force: 800 g; hold time: 5 s; return speed (or post-speed): 40 mm / s.

[0708] The stickiness is characterized by the work of detachment measured during the unloading (stretching phase) corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed as positive joules per square meter. The lower the value of the work measured, the less sticky the deposit is.

[0709] [Table 9]

[0710]

[0711] The viscosity limit of the test is 1.5 J / m 2 Beyond that, the deposit becomes noticeably sticky.

[0712] All deposits showed a lack of tack after the films had dried (at 60 min).

[0713] The test results in the above table show that the films deposited from each of the compositions according to the present invention have no sticky effect (0.12 J / m 2 ).

[0714] Examples 39 and 40 - Other Examples of Compositions According to the Invention

[0715] The product was deposited on a 3 cm x 3 cm area on the forearm using a dip applicator (for lips). The ease of spreading, application time and uniformity were qualitatively assessed. The product was left to dry until completely dry (approximately 5-10 min). The resistance to drying was visually assessed after contact with the tissue (intensity of marking). The tolerance to olive oil was assessed after adding a drop of olive oil on the deposit (manually spreading the oil over the entire surface of the deposit). Next, the tolerance to olive oil was visually assessed after contact with the tissue (intensity of marking).

[0716] [Table 10]

[0717]

[0718] [Table 11]

[0719]

[0720] Examples 41 and 42 - Results Obtained with Other Solvents

[0721] [Table 12]

[0722]

[0723] [Table 13]

[0724]

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a- at least one volatile oil, b- at least one volatile alcohol, c- at least one natural resin, and d-at least one modified polysaccharide.

2. The composition according to the preceding claim, in, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile oil and volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is greater than 1; preferably: - a weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1; and / or The weight ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1.

3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The volatile oil or the volatile alcohol, preferably each of them, has a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 1.3 Pa, preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, preferably selected from C8-C16 isoalkanes; preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from isododecane, C9-C12 straight-chain or branched alkanes and / or a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises isododecane.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The volatile oil is at least partly of plant origin.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 18, preferably 8 to 15.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The volatile alcohol is selected from C1-C4 alcohols, preferably selected from: ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol and mixtures thereof; preferably ethanol.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The weight ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 1.2 to 20, preferably 1.5 to 15.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of volatile alcohol is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 100, preferably 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.25 to 8, preferably 0.3 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 5, preferably 0.7 to 5, preferably 1 to 4, preferably 1.5 to 4.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in, Relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight content of volatile oil is greater than the weight content of volatile alcohol, which itself is greater than the weight content of natural resin.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in, The at least one resin is chosen from: a) grass resins, b) amber, c) asphaltites and black bitumen, d) Peru balsam, e) tolu balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resin, i) dammar resin, j) elemi resin, k) frankincense, l) white rosin, m) labdanum, n) mastic resin, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) styrax, s) turpentine, t) rosin, in particular rosin, rosin esters and u) tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures of these resins; preferably, the natural resin is chosen from j), k), t), u) and v), and mixtures of these resins; preferably, the natural resin is chosen from j), k), and v), and mixtures of these resins, the resins can in particular be esterified, salified, in the form of adducts, phenol-modified, dimerized and / or hydrogenated.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The composition comprises at least one resin whose INCI name includes at least one of the following terms: Candelilla wax extract, Candelilla wax extract, Aesculus hippocastanum resin, Sauvignon ovata resin, or glyceryl rosinate; and mixtures thereof; the natural resin is preferably selected from Candelilla wax extract, Candelilla wax extract, Aesculus hippocastanum resin, Sauvignon ovata resin, and mixtures thereof.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The resin contains at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% by weight of terpene compounds, even more preferably at least 60% by weight of terpene compounds, or even better still at least 70% by weight of terpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin.

14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The resin comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight of polyterpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin representing 100%.

15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The resin contains less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin representing 100%.

16. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The resin contains at least one diterpene compound, preferably derived from abietic acid, in particular natural or chemically modified, preferably selected from rosin resins, in particular the resin comprises abietic acid, preferably mainly selected from abietic acid and pimaric acid, derivatives thereof, in particular resulting from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification of abietic acid, for example with polyacids such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the resin contains at least one ester of abietic acid, the ester being selected from the group consisting of: glycerol Rosinate, pentaerythritol rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, dilinoleyl dimer hydrogenated rosinate, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythritol rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from glyceryl rosinate.

17. Composition according to the preceding claim, in, The total content of diterpenes of the resin is at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, preferably at least 40% by weight of diterpenes relative to the total weight of the natural resin.

18. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The at least one resin contains at least one triterpene compound, and the triterpene compound is preferably selected from: α-amyrin, β-amyrin, α-amyrin ketone, β-amyrin ketone, dammardienon, dammardienonol, ursolic acid, hydroxyhopazone, dianthaldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, lupeol, epilupeol and mixtures thereof; and preferably, the resin is selected from frankincense resin, such as Scutellaria baicalensis, Smilax glabra, and resins extracted from plant waxes, such as Candelilla resin.

19. Composition according to the preceding claim, in, The total triterpenoid content of the resin is at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, and preferably at least 35% by weight of triterpenoids relative to the total weight of the natural resin.

20. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The number average molecular weight of the resin is less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 10 000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 5000 g / mol, better still less than or equal to 2000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 2000 g / mol, and even better still less than or equal to 1000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 1000 g / mol.

21. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The glass transition temperature of the resin is preferably in the range of 0°C to 200°C, more preferably 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably 20°C to 90°C, and even more preferably 30°C to 70°C.

22. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The softening point of the resin is preferably in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably 40°C to 90°C.

23. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The resin is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 35%, preferably from 1% to 30%, preferably from 1.2% to 25%, preferably from 1.5% to 25%, preferably from 2% to 25%, preferably from 3% to 22%, preferably from 3% to 20%, for example from 5% to 20%, preferably from 3% to 15%, preferably from 3% to 10%, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

24. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in, The polysaccharide is chosen from cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polysaccharides, preferably nonionic polysaccharides, modified by the presence of at least one hydrocarbyl aliphatic chain, cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or nonaromatic, comprising 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) and / or p) (di)alkylamino groups as defined below and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below: i) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkyl, ii) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkenyl, i) ii) linear or branched (C5-C28) alkynyl, preferably the hydrocarbyl group is linear; a) halogen, such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio) carboxamide -C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio) cyanate, i) (hetero) aryl, such as phenyl or furanyl, and j) (hetero) cycloalkyl, such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, l) RX - wherein R represents a radical selected from α) cycloalkyl, such as cyclohexyl, β) heterocycloalkyl, such as sugars, preferably monosaccharides such as glucose, γ) (hetero) aryl, such as phenyl, δ) cosmetic active agents, m) thiosulfate, and X represents a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) r or (thio)carbonyl, c') or a combination of a') and b'), such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea or sulfonamide; Ra represents a hydrogen atom, or (C1-C4)alkyl, or aryl (C1-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc may be the same or different and represent (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C4)alkoxy, in particular only one substituent; and / or a') heteroatom, such as O, S, N(Ra) and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) r , (thio)carbonyl, c') or a combination of a') and b'), such as a (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea or sulfonamide, wherein r is equal to 1 or 2, Ra is as defined previously, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc are as defined previously; in particular, the modified polysaccharide is derived from: i) gum arabic; ii) gum ghatti; iii) gum karaya; iv) gum tragacanth; v) agar; vi) alginates; vii) carrageenan and furcellaran; viii) guar gum; ix) locust bean gum; x) fenugreek gum; xi) tamarind gum; xii) konjac gum; xiii) xanthan gum or dehydroxylated xanthan gum; xiv) gellan gum; xv) scleroglucan gum; xvi) cellulose; xvii) starch; xviii) inulin; and xix) pectin; preferably selected from xvi), xvii) and xvii), more preferably xvi).

25. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in, The modified polysaccharide is selected from: - polysaccharide ethers known as alkylpolysaccharides, wherein the alkyl group contains between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; preferably derived from cellulose or guar gum or a mixture thereof; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose, wherein the linear or branched alkyl residue contains between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms; preferably chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, preferably, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose; and - Polysaccharide esters; and mixtures thereof; Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of dextrin palmitate, myristoyl pullulan, ethyl cellulose, ethyl guar gum; and mixtures thereof.

26. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in, The modified polysaccharide is present in the composition in an amount between 0.05% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 0.2% and 12% by weight, even better still between 0.5% and 10% by weight, and / or The weight ratio between the total amount of resin and the total amount of modified polysaccharide present in the composition ranges from 0.05 to 200, more preferably from 0.1 to 100, more preferably from 0.2 to 50, or better still from 0.5 to 20, preferably from 0.5 to 10.

27. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oily phase having a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25, said oily phase being a continuous oily phase.

28. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The composition is in the form of an oily composition, in particular an anhydrous composition, preferably an anhydrous dispersion, preferably an anhydrous solution; or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or a composition with several separate phases, such as a two-phase composition.

29. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The composition further has an aqueous phase whose total content by weight ranges from 2% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

30. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, It is characterized in that The total content of oily phase ranges from 5% to 100% by weight, preferably from 10% to 98% by weight, preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

31. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in, The volatile oil is preferably present in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 2% to 70%, preferably from 3% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably from 8% to 40% by weight and even more preferably from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

32. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pigment, preferably chosen from organic pigments and / or titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular coated with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, in particular stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate; preferably, the composition comprises a pigment chosen from organic pigments and / or titanium dioxide.

33. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising at least 2% by weight of pigment, preferably at least 5% by weight of pigment, more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight of pigment, in particular from 10 to 30% by weight and more particularly from 10 to 20% by weight of pigment relative to the total weight of the composition.

34. A composition according to any preceding claim, in the form of a foundation, a lipstick, a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer or correction stick, an eyebrow product, a skin care product, a sun protection product, a hygiene product, a hair styling product, or a hair dye product, or a nail polish.

35. A composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of synthetic resin, preferably free of synthetic resin; and / or preferably, comprising less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of silicone resin, preferably free of silicone resin.

36. A composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone oil, especially volatile silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, and ideally the composition does not contain any silicone oil.

37. A method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, It is characterized in that The method comprises applying to the keratin material a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 36.

38. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 36 for improving the durability and / or resistance to abrasion of a film obtained by applying said composition to said keratin material, without increasing a tacky effect.

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