Soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition and application thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetic manufacturing. The invention relates to a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition. Comprising the following components in parts by mass: 1 to 3 parts of nicotinamide, 1.5 to 2 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 0.5 to 1.5 parts of acetylchitosamine, 0.3 to 0.7 part of ergothioneine, 0.3 to 0.7 part of hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid, 0.2 to 0.4 part of leontopodium alpinum callus extract, 0.05 to 0.15 part of carnosine, 0.05 to 0.15 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.003 to 0.007 part of acetyl hexapeptide-8 and 0.0001 to 0.0005 part of arginine / lysine polypeptide. According to the invention, comprehensive anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects of the product are realized by considering multiple targets and multiple pathways, not only can the product play a role aiming at multiple targets of skin aging, but also purer and milder raw materials are adopted, so that potential irritation and damage to skin are reduced.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics manufacturing, and in particular to a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition and application thereof. Background Art

[0003] With the growing demand for beauty and skin care, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmetics have gradually become a popular choice in the market. However, most anti-wrinkle and anti-aging products on the market currently have the following problems: First, the mechanism of action of most anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmetics is relatively simple, and even though they are expensive, their actual effects are often unsatisfactory. These products can often only target a specific aspect of skin aging, while ignoring that skin aging is a complex process with multiple factors and multiple levels. Secondly, most anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmetics on the market use chemical synthetic raw materials, which often contain more impurities, easily cause skin irritation, and even lead to allergic reactions, bringing inconvenience and trouble to consumers.

[0004] Therefore, in order to address the problems of single target, high impurities and irritation of raw materials in existing anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmetics, it is of great significance to improve skin aging problems from multiple targets and reduce potential irritation and damage through innovative formula design and selection of purer and milder raw materials, thereby providing safer and more effective anti-aging skin care products. Summary of the invention

[0005] In view of the above-mentioned prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition and its application.

[0006] To achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:

[0007] The first aspect of the present invention provides a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, comprising the following components in parts by weight:

[0008] 1-3 parts of niacinamide, 1.5-2 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 0.5-1.5 parts of acetyl glucosamine, 0.3-0.7 parts of ergothioneine, 0.3-0.7 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, 0.2-0.4 parts of alpine edelweiss callus extract, 0.05-0.15 parts of carnosine, 0.05-0.15 parts of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.003-0.007 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8 and 0.0001-0.0005 parts of arginine / lysine polypeptide.

[0009] The second aspect of the present invention provides the use of the above-mentioned soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition in the preparation of soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming products.

[0010] Preferably, the product is any one of a cream, a lotion, a water solution, a gel or a facial mask.

[0011] The third aspect of the present invention provides a soothing anti-wrinkle firming cream, which includes the above-mentioned soothing anti-wrinkle firming composition, and the addition amount of the soothing anti-wrinkle firming composition is 4-8% of the mass of the soothing anti-wrinkle firming cream.

[0012] Preferably, the soothing anti-wrinkle firming cream further includes a humectant, a thickener, an oil, an emulsifier, a preservative and water; wherein:

[0013] The humectant accounts for 12-16% of the mass of the soothing anti-wrinkle firming cream;

[0014] The thickener accounts for 0.6-1.2% of the mass of the soothing anti-wrinkle firming cream;

[0015] The oil accounts for 12-16% of the mass of the soothing anti-wrinkle firming cream;

[0016] The emulsifier accounts for 3-7% of the mass of the soothing anti-wrinkle firming cream;

[0017] The preservative accounts for 0.5-1.5% of the mass of the soothing anti-wrinkle firming cream;

[0018] The balance is water.

[0019] Preferably, the humectant is composed of butylene glycol, glycerin, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of (5-9):(3-7):(1-2):(0.2-0.6):(0.05-0.15).

[0020] Preferably, the thickener is composed of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate in a mass ratio of (0.03-0.07):(0.5-1).

[0021] Preferably, the oil is composed of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetylstearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of (4-6):

[0022] (2-4):(2-3):(1-3):(1-1.5):(0.2-0.4):(0.2-0.3):(0.1-0.3).

[0023] Preferably, the emulsifier is composed of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of (0.05-0.15):(1-3):(1-2):(0.4-0.8):(0.4-0.7).

[0024] Preferably, the preservative is composed of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of (0.5-1.5):(0.5-1.5).

[0025] In the fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method for preparing the above-mentioned soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream, comprising the following steps:

[0026] (1) Heat water to 80 - 85 °C, add a humectant and a thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0027] (2) Heat fats and oils and an emulsifier to 80 - 85 °C, and stir until completely dissolved to obtain an oil phase;

[0028] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of starting homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0029] (4) Cool down to 65 - 68 °C, add a preservative, and stir evenly;

[0030] (5) Cool down to 40 - 50 °C, add the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0031] Advantages of the present invention:

[0032] This patent realizes the comprehensive anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects of the product by considering multiple targets and multiple pathways. It can not only act on multiple targets of skin aging, but also uses purer and milder raw materials to reduce potential irritation and damage to the skin.

[0033] 2. In the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition of the present invention, the functions of each component raw material are as follows:

[0034] Soothing aspect: Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: By inhibiting the synthesis of inflammatory mediators (such as prostaglandins, leukotrienes), it reduces skin inflammatory reactions and relieves redness and sensitivity. In combination with niacinamide, it enhances the anti-inflammatory effect. Niacinamide reduces the release of inflammatory factors, while dipotassium glycyrrhizinate directly blocks the inflammatory signaling pathway. Leontopodium alpinum callus extract contains polyphenolic compounds, which inhibit the NF-κB pathway, reduce oxidative stress and ultraviolet-induced inflammatory reactions. In combination with ergothioneine, it scavenges free radicals and reduces the irritation of environmental stress on the skin.

[0035] In terms of anti-wrinkle: Hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol: Stimulates the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), type IV and type VII collagen, enhances the structure of the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), and improves skin firmness. Promotes collagen production together with niacinamide. Niacinamide provides raw materials for synthesis through energy metabolism, and hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol directly activates the expression of related genes. Chitinamide: A precursor for the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, promotes the production of hyaluronic acid in the extracellular matrix (ECM), improves skin water retention and elasticity, synergistically enhances skin hydration with hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, and maintains the stability of the dermal layer structure. Carnosine: Inhibits the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), protects collagen from glycation damage. Clears free radicals together with ergothioneine, reducing the dual aging stress of oxidation and glycation.

[0036] In terms of firming: Acetyl hexapeptide-8: Inhibits the release of neurotransmitters mediated by the SNARE complex, reduces dynamic wrinkles caused by muscle contraction, and improves epidermal smoothness. Enhances dermal support together with arginine / lysine polypeptide. The former reduces expression lines, and the latter stimulates collagen regeneration. Arginine / lysine polypeptide: Activates the TGF-β signaling pathway in fibroblasts, promotes the synthesis of type I and type III collagen, and enhances skin elasticity. Acts in combination with hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol. The former stimulates collagen neogenesis, and the latter strengthens the matrix structure. Ergothioneine: Activates the Nrf2 pathway, enhances the cellular antioxidant defense system, clears ROS, protects mitochondrial function, and delays photoaging.

[0037] Target synergy:

[0038] Ergothioneine, niacinamide, and Leontopodium alpinum extract reduce inflammatory damage by scavenging free radicals (ROS) and inhibiting the NF-κB pathway, providing a stable environment for collagen regeneration;

[0039] Hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol and arginine / lysine polypeptide promote collagen production from the perspectives of matrix synthesis and fibroblast activation respectively, while carnosine protects existing collagen from glycation damage, forming a "synthesis - protection" closed loop;

[0040] Acetyl hexapeptide-8 inhibits dynamic wrinkles, and hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol and niacinamide improve static wrinkles. The two achieve comprehensive anti-wrinkle through different mechanisms;

[0041] Chitinamide and niacinamide jointly enhance the barrier function, reduce water loss, and 2-(4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)piperazin-1-yl)ethanesulfonic acid promotes the penetration of moisturizing components, forming a long-lasting water-locking network;

[0042] Through the above target synergy, a comprehensive anti-aging system covering "inflammation control - collagen regeneration - barrier strengthening" can be constructed. Specific implementation method

[0043] It should be noted that the following detailed description is illustrative and is intended to provide further explanation of the present application. Unless otherwise specified, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those of ordinary skill in the technical field to which the present application belongs.

[0044] In order to enable those skilled in the art to more clearly understand the technical solution of the present application, the technical solution of the present application will be described in detail below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0045] The test materials used in the embodiments of the present invention are all conventional test materials in the art and can be obtained through commercial channels.

[0046] Among them, the components and manufacturers used in the present invention are as follows:

[0047] Reagents and manufacturers used in Table 1

[0048]

[0049]

[0050] Example 1: Preparation of a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition:

[0051] Raw material composition (parts by mass):

[0052] 2 parts of niacinamide, 1.75 parts of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, 1 part of N-acetylchitosanamine, 0.5 part of ergothioneine, 0.5 part of 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazineethanesulfonic acid, 0.3 part of Leontopodium alpinum callus extract, 0.1 part of carnosine, 0.1 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.005 part of acetyl hexapeptide-8, and 0.0003 part of arginine / lysine polypeptide;

[0053] Mix the above raw materials evenly to obtain a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition.

[0054] Example 2: Preparation of a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition:

[0055] Raw material composition (parts by mass):

[0056] 1 part of niacinamide, 1.5 parts of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, 0.5 part of N-acetylchitosanamine, 0.3 part of ergothioneine, 0.3 part of 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazineethanesulfonic acid, 0.2 part of Leontopodium alpinum callus extract, 0.05 part of carnosine, 0.05 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.003 part of acetyl hexapeptide-8, and 0.0001 part of arginine / lysine polypeptide;

[0057] Mix the above raw materials evenly to obtain a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition.

[0058] Example 3: Preparation of a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition:

[0059] Raw material composition (parts by mass):

[0060] 3 parts of niacinamide, 2 parts of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, 1.5 parts of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, 0.7 part of ergothioneine, 0.7 part of 2-[4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazin-1-yl]ethanesulfonic acid, 0.4 part of Leontopodium alpinum callus extract, 0.15 part of carnosine, 0.15 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.007 part of acetyl hexapeptide-8, and 0.0005 part of arginine / lysine polypeptide;

[0061] Mix the above raw materials evenly to obtain a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition.

[0062] Example 4: Preparation of a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream:

[0063] 1. Raw material composition (mass percentage):

[0064] 4% of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition prepared in Example 1, 12% of a humectant, 0.6% of a thickener, 12% of an oil, 3% of an emulsifier, 0.5% of a preservative; the balance is water;

[0065] The humectant is composed of butylene glycol, glycerol, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 5:3:1:0.2:0.05;

[0066] The thickener is composed of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate in a mass ratio of 0.03:0.5;

[0067] The oil is composed of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetylstearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 4:2:2:1:1:0.2:0.2:0.1;

[0068] The emulsifier is composed of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.05:1:1:0.4:0.4;

[0069] The preservative is composed of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.5;

[0070] 2. Preparation method:

[0071] (1) Heat the water to 85°C, add the humectant and the thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0072] (2) Heat the oil and the emulsifier to 85°C and stir until completely dissolved to obtain an oil phase;

[0073] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of starting homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0074] (4) Cool down to 65°C, add preservative, and stir evenly;

[0075] (5) Cool down to 45°C, add the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0076] Example 5: Preparation of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream:

[0077] 1. Composition of raw materials (mass percentage):

[0078] The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition prepared in Example 2: 6%, humectant: 14%, thickener: 0.9%, oil: 14%, emulsifier: 5%, preservative: 1%; the balance is water.

[0079] The humectant is composed of butylene glycol, glycerin, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 7:5:1.5:0.4:0.1;

[0080] The thickener is composed of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate in a mass ratio of 0.05:0.75;

[0081] The oil is composed of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetylstearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 5:3:2.5:2:1.25:0.3:0.25:0.2;

[0082] The emulsifier is composed of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.1:2:1.5:0.6:0.55;

[0083] The preservative is composed of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 1:1;

[0084] 2. Preparation method:

[0085] (1) Heat water to 85°C, add the humectant and thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain the aqueous phase;

[0086] (2) Heat the oil and emulsifier to 85°C, and stir until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase;

[0087] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of starting homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0088] (4) Cool down to 65°C, add the preservative, and stir evenly;

[0089] (5) Cool down to 45°C, add the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0090] Example 6: Preparation of a Soothing, Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Cream:

[0091] 1. Composition of raw materials (by mass percentage):

[0092] 8% of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition prepared in Example 3, 16% of a humectant, 1.2% of a thickener, 16% of an oil, 7% of an emulsifier, 1.5% of a preservative; the balance is water.

[0093] The humectant is composed of butylene glycol, glycerol, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 9:7:2:0.6:0.15;

[0094] The thickener is composed of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate in a mass ratio of 0.07:1;

[0095] The oil is composed of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetylstearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 6:4:3:3:1.5:0.4:0.3:0.3;

[0096] The emulsifier is composed of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.15:3:2:0.8:0.7;

[0097] The preservative is composed of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 1.5:1.5;

[0098] 2. Preparation method:

[0099] (1) Heat the water to 85°C, add the humectant and the thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0100] (2) Heat the oil and the emulsifier to 85°C, stir until completely dissolved to obtain an oil phase;

[0101] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of starting homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0102] (4) Cool down to 65°C, add the preservative, and stir evenly;

[0103] (5) Cool down to 45°C, add the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0104] Comparative Example 1:

[0105] 1. Composition of raw materials (by mass percentage):

[0106] 4% of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, 12% of a humectant, 0.6% of a thickener, 12% of an oil, 3% of an emulsifier, 0.5% of a preservative; the balance is water;

[0107] The soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition consists of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, niacinamide, ergothioneine, carnosine, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and acetyl hexapeptide-8 in a mass ratio of 1.75:2:0.5:0.1:0.1:0.005;

[0108] The humectant consists of butylene glycol, glycerin, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 5:3:1:0.2:0.05;

[0109] The thickener consists of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate in a mass ratio of 0.03:0.5;

[0110] The oil consists of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetylstearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 4:2:2:1:1:0.2:0.2:0.1;

[0111] The emulsifier consists of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.05:1:1:0.4:0.4;

[0112] The preservative consists of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.5;

[0113] 2. Preparation method:

[0114] (1) Heat water to 85°C, add the humectant and the thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain the aqueous phase;

[0115] (2) Heat the oil and the emulsifier to 85°C and stir until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase;

[0116] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of starting homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0117] (4) Cool down to 65°C, add the preservative, and stir evenly;

[0118] (5) Cool down to 45°C, add the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0119] Comparative Example 2:

[0120] 1. Raw material composition (mass percentage):

[0121] Soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition 4%, humectant 12%, thickener 0.6%, oil 12%, emulsifier 3%, preservative 0.5%; the balance is water;

[0122] The soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition consists of chitosan oligosaccharide, niacinamide, ergothioneine, carnosine, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and acetyl hexapeptide-8 in a mass ratio of 1:2:0.5:0.1:0.1:0.005;

[0123] The humectant consists of butylene glycol, glycerin, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 5:3:1:0.2:0.05;

[0124] The thickener consists of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate in a mass ratio of 0.03:0.5;

[0125] The oil consists of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 4:2:2:1:1:0.2:0.2:0.1;

[0126] The emulsifier consists of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.05:1:1:0.4:0.4;

[0127] The preservative consists of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.5;

[0128] 2. Preparation method:

[0129] (1) Heat water to 85°C, add the humectant and thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain the aqueous phase;

[0130] (2) Heat the oil and emulsifier to 85°C and stir until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase;

[0131] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of starting homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0132] (4) Cool down to 65°C, add the preservative, and stir evenly;

[0133] (5) Cool down to 45°C, add the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0134] Comparative Example 3:

[0135] 1. Raw material composition (mass percentage):

[0136] Soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition 4%, humectant 12%, thickener 0.6%, oil 12%, emulsifier 3%, preservative 0.5%; the balance is water;

[0137] The soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition consists of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol 2-hydroxyethanesulfonate, niacinamide, ergothioneine, carnosine, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, and acetyl hexapeptide-8 in a mass ratio of 0.5:2:0.5:0.1:0.1:0.005;

[0138] The humectant consists of butylene glycol, glycerol, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol, and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 5:3:1:0.2:0.05;

[0139] The thickener consists of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate in a mass ratio of 0.03:0.5;

[0140] The oil consists of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 4:2:2:1:1:0.2:0.2:0.1;

[0141] The emulsifier consists of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.05:1:1:0.4:0.4;

[0142] The preservative consists of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.5;

[0143] 2. Preparation method:

[0144] (1) Heat water to 85 °C, add the humectant and thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain the aqueous phase;

[0145] (2) Heat the oil and emulsifier to 85 °C and stir until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase;

[0146] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0147] (4) Cool down to 65 °C, add the preservative, and stir evenly;

[0148] (5) Cool down to 45 °C, add the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0149] Comparative Example 4:

[0150] 1. Raw material composition (mass percentage):

[0151] Soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition 4%, humectant 12%, thickener 0.6%, oil 12%, emulsifier 3%, preservative 0.5%; the balance is water;

[0152] The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition consists of an extract of Leontopodium alpinum callus, niacinamide, ergothioneine, carnosine, dipotassium glycyrrhizate and acetyl hexapeptide-8 in a mass ratio of 0.3:2:0.5:0.1:0.1:0.005;

[0153] The humectant consists of butylene glycol, glycerol, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 5:3:1:0.2:0.05;

[0154] The thickener consists of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate in a mass ratio of 0.03:0.5;

[0155] The oil consists of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 4:2:2:1:1:0.2:0.2:0.1;

[0156] The emulsifier consists of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.05:1:1:0.4:0.4;

[0157] The preservative consists of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.5;

[0158] 2. Preparation method:

[0159] (1) Heat water to 85°C, add the humectant and thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain the aqueous phase;

[0160] (2) Heat the oil and emulsifier to 85°C and stir until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase;

[0161] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of starting homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0162] (4) Cool down to 65°C, add the preservative, and stir evenly;

[0163] (5) Cool down to 45°C, add the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0164] Comparative Example 5:

[0165] 1. Raw material composition (mass percentage):

[0166] The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition 4%, humectant 12%, thickener 0.6%, oil 12%, emulsifier 3%, preservative 0.5%; the balance is water;

[0167] The soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition consists of arginine / lysine polypeptide, niacinamide, ergothioneine, carnosine, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and acetyl hexapeptide-8 in a mass ratio of 0.0003:2:0.5:0.1:0.1:0.005;

[0168] The humectant consists of butylene glycol, glycerin, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 5:3:1:0.2:0.05;

[0169] The thickener consists of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate in a mass ratio of 0.03:0.5;

[0170] The oil consists of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 4:2:2:1:1:0.2:0.2:0.1;

[0171] The emulsifier consists of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.05:1:1:0.4:0.4;

[0172] The preservative consists of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.5;

[0173] 2. Preparation method:

[0174] (1) Heat water to 85°C, add the humectant and thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain the aqueous phase;

[0175] (2) Heat the oil and emulsifier to 85°C and stir until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase;

[0176] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of opening homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0177] (4) Cool down to 65°C, add the preservative, and stir evenly;

[0178] (5) Cool down to 45°C, add the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0179] Comparative Example 6:

[0180] 1. Raw material composition (mass percentage):

[0181] Soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition 4%, humectant 12%, thickener 0.6%, oil 12%, emulsifier 3%, preservative 0.5%; the balance is water;

[0182] The soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition consists of niacinamide, ergothioneine, carnosine, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and acetyl hexapeptide-8 in a mass ratio of 2:0.5:0.1:0.1:0.005;

[0183] The moisturizer consists of butylene glycol, glycerin, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of 5:3:1:0.2:0.05;

[0184] The thickener consists of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate in a mass ratio of 0.03:0.5;

[0185] The oil consists of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isocetane, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of 4:2:2:1:1:0.2:0.2:0.1;

[0186] The emulsifier consists of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of 0.05:1:1:0.4:0.4;

[0187] The preservative consists of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.5;

[0188] 2. Preparation method:

[0189] (1) Heat water to 85°C, add the moisturizer and thickener, and homogenize and disperse evenly to obtain the aqueous phase;

[0190] (2) Heat the oil and emulsifier to 85°C and stir until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase;

[0191] (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase under the condition of homogenization until emulsified evenly;

[0192] (4) Cool down to 65°C, add the preservative, and stir evenly;

[0193] (5) Cool down to 45°C, add the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stir evenly to obtain the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

[0194] Test example 1: Product safety evaluation:

[0195] Conduct a cosmetic patch test on the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream prepared in Examples 4-6 to evaluate its safety.

[0196] Test subjects: 30 subjects, aged between 20 and 55 years old, with healthy skin and no history of skin diseases or allergies, meeting the volunteer selection criteria for subjects.

[0197] Grouping: The test subjects were divided into 3 groups, with 10 people in each group. The age difference within each group was no more than 2 years.

[0198] Patch method: Select a qualified patch tester. In a closed patch test, place approximately 0.020 - 0.025 g of the test substance in the patch tester. Then, use non-irritating tape to attach the patch tester with the test substance to the back or the flexor side of the forearm of the subject. Gently press with the palm to make it evenly adhere to the skin. After 24 hours, remove the test substance. Observe the skin reaction at 0.5, 6, 12, 24, and 48 hours after removal. Record the results according to the skin reaction grading criteria in the Hygiene Standard for Cosmetics and the Safety Technical Standard for Cosmetics. The test results are shown in the patch test result table.

[0199] Evaluation criteria: Grade 0: Negative reaction; Grade 1: Suspected reaction, only faint erythema; Grade 2: Weak positive reaction, erythema, infiltration, edema, and may have papules; Grade 3: Strong positive reaction, erythema, infiltration, edema, may have papules, and the reaction may extend beyond the test area; Grade 4: Extremely strong positive reaction, obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, confluent vesicles, and the reaction extends beyond the test area.

[0200] Patch test results:

[0201] Table 2 Patch test results

[0202] Test product Number of negative cases at 0.5H Number of negative cases at 6H Number of negative cases at 12H Number of negative cases at 24H Number of negative cases at 48H Example 4 10 10 10 10 10 Example 5 10 10 10 10 10 Example 6 10 10 10 10 10

[0203] As can be seen from the above table, the results of the human skin patch test show that through the patch test of the test substances for each group of subjects, observing the skin reaction at 0.5, 6, 12, 24, and 48 hours, the skin reactions of all subjects were negative, indicating that the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream prepared by the present invention is safe to use.

[0204] Test example 2: Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy:

[0205] DPPH free radical scavenging experiment

[0206] Take 30 g of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream prepared in Examples 4 - 6 and Comparative Examples 1 - 6 as samples. The anti-wrinkle efficacy can be characterized by evaluating the scavenging rate of the test samples for DPPH free radicals.

[0207] Detection environment: Temperature 18 - 26 °C, relative humidity 45 - 65% RH, and other conditions are in accordance with the standard requirements;

[0208] Detection location: No. 575, Mingbu Road, Mingshui Economic Development Zone, Zhangqiu District, Jinan City;

[0209] Judgment basis: Laboratory method (DPPH free radical scavenging rate);

[0210] The DPPH assay is a simple method for screening free radical scavengers and evaluating antioxidant activity. The ethanol solution of DPPH is purple, with a maximum absorption wavelength of 517 nm. When a free radical scavenger is added to the DPPH solution and its lone pair of electrons is paired, the absorption disappears or weakens, resulting in a lighter solution color, showing yellow or light yellow, and the absorbance at 517 nm becomes smaller. The degree of change is linearly related to the free radical scavenging intensity, so quantitative analysis can be carried out by spectrophotometry. This method can be expressed by the scavenging rate. The larger the scavenging rate, the stronger the scavenging ability of the substance.

[0211] Experimental method:

[0212] S1 Sample pretreatment;

[0213] S2 Reaction of the sample with the DPPH system;

[0214] S3 Measure the absorbance at 517 nm;

[0215] S4 Calculate the DPPH scavenging rate.

[0216]

[0217] Where:

[0218] T - Absorbance of the sample tube, that is, the absorbance of the solution after the sample reacts with DPPH;

[0219] T0 - Absorbance of the sample background;

[0220] C - Average value of the absorbance of the DPPH tube three times, that is, the absorbance of the DPPH solution without adding the sample;

[0221] C0 - Absorbance of the solvent background.

[0222] The test results are shown in the following table:

[0223] Table 3 Results of anti-wrinkle efficacy evaluation

[0224]

[0225]

[0226] As can be seen from Table 3, the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming creams prepared in Examples 4-6 were respectively added with the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 of the present application, and the DPPH scavenging rate was significantly higher than that of the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming creams prepared in the comparative examples, indicating that the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream of the present invention has a good anti-wrinkle effect; among them, the DPPH scavenging rate of the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream prepared in Example 4 was 78.53%; compared with Example 4, in Comparative Example 6, the propyltetrahydropyranyl triol, chitosan acetylglucosamine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, Leontopodium alpinum callus extract and arginine / lysine polypeptide were omitted from the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and the DPPH scavenging rate was 33.82%; compared with Comparative Example 6, in Comparative Example 1, propyltetrahydropyranyl triol was added to the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and the DPPH scavenging rate was 40.55%, which was 6.73% higher than that of Comparative Example 6; compared with Comparative Example 6, in Comparative Example 2, chitosan acetylglucosamine was added to the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and the DPPH scavenging rate was 41.36%, which was 7.54% higher than that of Comparative Example 6; compared with Comparative Example 6, in Comparative Example 3, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid was added to the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and the DPPH scavenging rate was 40.91%, which was 7.09% higher than that of Comparative Example 6; compared with Comparative Example 6, in Comparative Example 4, Leontopodium alpinum callus extract was added to the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and the DPPH scavenging rate was 43.52%, which was 9.7% higher than that of Comparative Example 6; compared with Comparative Example 6, in Comparative Example 5, arginine / lysine polypeptide was added to the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and the DPPH scavenging rate was 45.31%, which was 11.49% higher than that of Comparative Example 6; the total increase in the DPPH scavenging rate of Comparative Examples 1-5 compared with Comparative Example 6 was 42.55%, and the DPPH scavenging rate of Example 4 was 44.71% higher than that of Comparative Example 6, indicating that the compounding of propyltetrahydropyranyl triol, chitosan acetylglucosamine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, Leontopodium alpinum callus extract and arginine / lysine polypeptide in the present invention has a synergistic effect on improving the DPPH scavenging rate.

[0227] Test Example 3: Evaluation of firming effect

[0228] Determination of elastase inhibition rate

[0229] Take 30 g of the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming creams prepared in Examples 4-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6 as samples, and the firming effect can be characterized by evaluating the elastase inhibition rate of the test samples.

[0230] Detection environment: temperature 18-26 °C, relative humidity 45-65% RH, and other conditions are all in accordance with the standard requirements;

[0231] Detection location: No. 575, Mingbu Road, Mingshui Economic Development Zone, Zhangqiu District, Jinan City;

[0232] Judgment basis: laboratory method (determination of elastase inhibition rate);

[0233] The firming effect is mainly characterized by evaluating the inhibition rate of the test sample on elastase. Elastase is mainly synthesized and secreted by fibroblasts, and can degrade elastin in the skin, leading to skin aging. The experimental principle of inhibiting elastase is that porcine pancreatic elastase undergoes a catalytic reaction with the enzyme substrate, and the absorbance changes after adding the active substance. The magnitude of the change in absorbance reflects the inhibition rate of the elastase inhibitor. The higher the value of the elastase inhibition rate, the stronger the firming effect of the sample.

[0234] Experimental method:

[0235] S1 Sample pretreatment;

[0236] S2 React the sample with elastase and the substrate;

[0237] S3 Measure the absorbance at 410 nm;

[0238] S4 Calculate the elastase inhibition rate.

[0239] The formula for calculating the elastase inhibition rate is

[0240]

[0241] In the formula:

[0242] A is the absorbance of the control group (Tris-HCl buffer replaces the test sample);

[0243] B is the absorbance of the blank group (Tris-HCl buffer replaces the enzyme solution and the test sample);

[0244] C is the absorbance of the experimental group;

[0245] D is the absorbance of the sample blank group (Tris-HCl buffer replaces the enzyme solution).

[0246] The test results are shown in the following table:

[0247] Table 4 Evaluation results of the firming effect

[0248]

[0249]

[0250] As can be seen from Table 4, the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming creams prepared in Examples 4-6 are respectively added with the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 of the present application, and the elastase inhibition rate is significantly higher than that of the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming creams prepared in the comparative examples, indicating that the soothing anti-wrinkle and firming cream of the present invention has a good firming effect.

[0251] Test Example 4: Evaluation of Soothing Efficacy

[0252] Determination of Hyaluronidase Inhibition Rate

[0253] Take 30 g of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream prepared in Examples 4-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6 as samples. The soothing efficacy can be characterized by evaluating the inhibition rate of the test samples against hyaluronidase.

[0254] Testing Location: No. 575, Mingbu Road, Mingshui Economic Development Zone, Zhangqiu District, Jinan City;

[0255] Judgment Basis: Laboratory Method (Determination of Hyaluronidase Inhibition Rate);

[0256] The soothing efficacy is mainly characterized by evaluating the inhibition rate of the test samples against hyaluronidase. High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid plays an important role in regulating skin repair and can significantly reduce inflammatory responses. However, the degradation products of hyaluronic acid are one of the causes of skin inflammatory responses. The degradation reaction of hyaluronic acid depends on the activity of hyaluronidase. Hyaluronidase is also involved in the process of tissue inflammation, is a participant in type I allergic reactions, and participates in the reaction in the third stage of allergic reactions, leading to mast cell degranulation. Therefore, the inhibition of hyaluronidase activity can be used as an index for the anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic reactions of the samples. The experimental principle of inhibiting sodium hyaluronidase is that hyaluronidase undergoes a catalytic reaction with the enzyme substrate, and the absorbance changes after adding the active substance. The magnitude of the change in absorbance reflects the magnitude of the inhibition rate of the hyaluronidase inhibitor. The higher the value of the hyaluronidase inhibition rate, the stronger the soothing efficacy of the sample.

[0257] Experimental Method:

[0258] S1 Sample Pretreatment (Dilute 5 times with water);

[0259] S2 React the sample with hyaluronidase and the substrate;

[0260] S3 Measure the absorbance value at 530 nm;

[0261] S4 Calculate the hyaluronidase inhibition rate.

[0262] The calculation formula for the sodium hyaluronidase inhibition rate is:

[0263]

[0264] In the formula: A is the absorbance of the control group (acetic acid buffer replaces the test sample); B is the absorbance of the blank group (acetic acid buffer replaces the enzyme solution and the test sample); C is the absorbance of the experimental group; D is the absorbance of the sample blank group (acetic acid buffer replaces the enzyme solution).

[0265] The test results are shown in the following table:

[0266] Table 5 Evaluation Results of Soothing Efficacy

[0267] Sample Hyaluronidase inhibition rate (%) Example 4 68.69 Example 5 64.28 Example 6 63.65 Comparative example 1 42.37 Comparative example 2 40.64 Comparative example 3 38.95 Comparative example 4 40.82 Comparative example 5 41.72 Comparative example 6 35.77

[0268] As can be seen from Table 5, the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming creams prepared in Examples 4-6 were respectively added with the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 of the present application, and the hyaluronidase inhibition rate was significantly higher than that of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming creams prepared in the comparative examples, indicating that the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream of the present invention has good soothing effect.

[0269] The above are only the preferred embodiments of the present application and are not intended to limit the present application. For those skilled in the art, various changes and modifications can be made to the present application. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present application shall be included within the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, characterized in that: The composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-3 parts of niacinamide, 1.5-2 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, 0.5-1.5 parts of acetyl glucosamine, 0.3-0.7 parts of ergothioneine, 0.3-0.7 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, 0.2-0.4 parts of alpine edelweiss callus extract, 0.05-0.15 parts of carnosine, 0.05-0.15 parts of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.003-0.007 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8 and 0.0001-0.0005 parts of arginine / lysine polypeptide.

2. Use of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition according to claim 1 in the preparation of soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming products.

3. The use according to claim 2, characterized in that: The product is any one of a cream, a lotion, a water solution, a gel or a facial mask.

4. A soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream, characterized in that: The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition according to claim 1 is included, wherein the addition amount of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition is 4-8% of the mass of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream.

5. The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream according to claim 4, characterized in that: The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream further comprises a moisturizer, a thickener, oil, an emulsifier, a preservative and water; wherein: Moisturizers make up 12-16% of the mass of soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming creams; Thickeners make up 0.6-1.2% of the mass of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream; Oils make up 12-16% of the mass of soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming creams; Emulsifiers make up 3-7% of the weight of soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming creams; Preservatives make up 0.5-1.5% of the mass of the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming cream; The balance is water.

6. The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream according to claim 4, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent is composed of butylene glycol, glycerol, trehalose, 1,2-pentanediol and sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of (5-9):(3-7):(1-2):(0.2-0.6):(0.05-0.15).

7. The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream according to claim 4, characterized in that: The thickener is composed of xanthan gum and sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate in a mass ratio of (0.03-0.07): (0.5-1).

8. The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream according to claim 4, characterized in that: The oil is composed of polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, shea butter, isononyl isononanoate, isododecane, isohexadecane, cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and tocopherol in a mass ratio of (4-6):(2-4):(2-3):(1-3):(1-1.5):(0.2-0.4):(0.2-0.3):(0.1-0.3).

9. The soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream according to claim 4, characterized in that: The emulsifier is composed of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside in a mass ratio of (0.05-0.15):(1-3):(1-2):(0.4-0.8):(0.4-0.7); The preservative is composed of 1,2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone in a mass ratio of (0.5-1.5): (0.5-1.5).

10. The method for preparing the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream according to any one of claims 4 to 9, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: (1) heating water to 80-85° C., adding a moisturizer and a thickener, and homogenizing and dispersing them uniformly to obtain an aqueous phase; (2) heating the oil and emulsifier to 80-85° C. and stirring until completely dissolved to obtain an oil phase; (3) Slowly pour the oil phase into the water phase while turning on the homogenizer until the emulsification is uniform; (4) Cool down to 65-68°C, add preservatives, and stir evenly; (5) Cooling down by 40-50° C., adding the soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming composition, and stirring evenly to obtain a soothing, anti-wrinkle and firming facial cream.

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