Cosmetic composition in form of stable suspension

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin and / or hair care and / or hygiene. The composition contains a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant selected from alanine salts, dodecyl glucoside and at least one amphoteric surfactant, as well as a mixture of water, cellulose and cellulose gum and insoluble particles stably suspended in the composition. In addition, the composition does not contain an amidopropyl betaine and does not contain a surfactant having a sulfate group.

Description

Field of the Invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic composition comprising particles in a stable suspension and free of controversial substances, and also to the cosmetic use of this composition for skin and / or hair cleansing and / or care. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for skin and / or hair hygiene and / or care using this composition. Background Art

[0002] Cosmetic compositions for skin and / or hair cleansing and / or care must first have good efficacy, namely, cleansing, foaming, and, where applicable, hair-smoothing effects. In fact, for shampoos, the main expectation of consumers is that the product can produce a large amount of foam and have a hair-smoothing effect.

[0003] In addition, it is also common to add insoluble particles to cosmetic compositions. These particles can have different functions. Some particles can contain active agents, especially microcapsules. Other particles can make the composition opaque, such as pearlescent bases, thus exerting the visual appeal of cosmetics. Finally, some particles have exfoliating properties and can be used to rub the skin, especially the scalp. Cosmetic compositions containing exfoliating particles can effectively remove dead skin, product residues, and excess sebum on the skin surface. They are ideal for relieving dandruff and itching, thus helping to strengthen hair roots.

[0004] Regardless of the function of the insoluble particles, stably and uniformly suspending them in the composition is a prerequisite for obtaining a cosmetic composition that is easy to use and aesthetically pleasing, which is what consumers pursue. However, it is difficult to obtain a cosmetic composition containing insoluble particles uniformly and stably suspended therein (so-called "smooth" cosmetic composition) because these particles tend to not remain suspended but accumulate at the bottom of the container containing the cosmetic composition, especially because the suspension of insoluble particles must be stabilized without compromising the cleaning and foaming ability of the composition.

[0005] In addition, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition must be adapted to the desired packaging and dispensing methods by selecting appropriate ingredients. Cosmetic compositions can be packaged in tubes or pump bottles, which leads to limitations in terms of their viscosity. For example, a formulation that is too thick cannot be "pumped". In addition, a formulation that is too fluid will slip out of the consumer's hand, which is undesirable because it does not meet the sensory qualities required for a hygienic product.

[0006] Finally, it is highly desirable that the cosmetic composition contains as few controversial substances as possible, preferably none at all, since consumers are becoming increasingly concerned about the ingredients of cosmetics. Thus, they seek products with as few chemically synthesized ingredients as possible and prefer ingredients of natural origin because they have better tolerance and affinity for the skin and are more environmentally friendly.

[0007] In this regard, many cosmetic compositions for the body and hair proposed by the prior art contain sulfated surfactants. These surfactants ensure a very desirable foaming effect, giving the impression of gentle cleansing. However, in reality, they are very irritating to the skin as they cause dryness and sensitization. Similarly, the presence of some amphoteric surfactants (such as amido propyl betaine, especially cocamidopropyl betaine) is suspected of causing some intolerances such as skin irritation. Therefore, in order to obtain good skin tolerance, these ingredients must be used at low concentrations, but there is still a risk for consumers with particularly sensitive skin. Therefore, it is preferable to avoid using these ingredients altogether. The use of acrylate-based suspending agents proposed by the prior art (such as 1382, INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) is also criticized. In fact, these acrylates can cause some allergic skin reactions, rhinoconjunctivitis and even asthma.

[0008] The document "Gentle Natural Body Scrub" (anonymous, November 25, 2019, requires user account access, URL: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1599626.pdf?bs=77&b=1461460&st= 20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) describes an exfoliating body scrub composition based on exfoliating almond powder, containing water, a surfactant mixture and the proprietary product Arbalon TM R-50. The surfactant mixture consists of sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine and cocoglucoside (INCI names).

[0009] The document "Hydrating Anti-Dandruff Scalp Shampoo" (anonymous, January 27, 2022, requires user account access, URL: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1625184.pdf?bs=77&b=5268232&st=20&r= "eu&ind=personalcare" describes a shampoo composition that contains water, a surfactant mixture, and a proprietary product, Arbalon TM R-50. The surfactant mixture consists of disodium cocoamphodiacetate and cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (INCI names). The composition does not contain insoluble molecules.

[0010] The document "Home SPA Salon Nourishing Shampoo" (anonymous, October 22, 2021, requires user account access, URL: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1625185.pdf?bs=77&b=5268233&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare) describes a shampoo composition based on insoluble ethylene glycol distearate particles. The composition contains water, a surfactant mixture, and a proprietary product, Arbalon TM R-50. The surfactant mixture consists of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocoamidopropyl betaine, and lauryl glucoside (INCI names).

[0011] The document "Arbalon TM R-50 Cellulose Liquid" (anonymous, October 27, 2021, requires user account access, URL: https: / / www.ulprospector.com / documents / 1598326.pdf?bs=77&b=1423123&st=20&r=eu&ind=personalcare), the technical data sheet of the commercial proprietary product Arbalon TM R-50 generally indicates that the proprietary product can be used to impart true yield strength to bath and shampoo-type cosmetic formulations and suspend insoluble particles.

[0012] The document US2013 / 143784 describes a hair cleansing composition that contains a surfactant mixture in water, the surfactant mixture including at least one alkylpolyglycoside, a compound containing a betaine group, and at least one aminoacyl. The composition does not contain insoluble particles. The document states in its introduction that it is desirable for the composition to be free of substances such as cellulose and its derivatives.

[0013] Achieving stable suspension of insoluble particles in cosmetic compositions for skin and / or hair hygiene and / or care without negatively affecting the efficacy or final viscosity of the composition and without altering the naturalness of the formulation is a real challenge. So far, none of the cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art have satisfied this need in a satisfactory manner.

[0014] The object of the present invention is to solve the drawbacks of these cosmetic compositions in the prior art and to provide a fluid cosmetic composition with a smooth appearance, which contains insoluble particles stably suspended therein, has good cleansing properties and high foaming capacity, while being free of ingredients that are irritating to the skin or otherwise harmful, and is concerned with the epidermis, thus minimizing the risk of skin intolerance.

[0015] Another object of the present invention is that the composition contains as few non-natural ingredients as possible, preferably none of such ingredients, has a physiological pH value, and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin and atopic skin.

[0016] More generally, the object of the present invention is to ensure that the composition contains as few ingredients as possible.

[0017] Another object of the present invention is to give the composition sufficient viscosity so that it does not slip from the user's hand during use and allows it to be packaged in various types of packaging and dispensing devices, tubes and pump bottles. Summary of the Invention

[0018] The inventors have found that these objects can be achieved by a fluid cosmetic composition which comprises insoluble particles, a specific combination of surfactants and a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum in an acceptable aqueous cosmetic carrier, and this mixture can effectively and durably keep the particles in a homogeneous suspension state in the carrier.

[0019] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition, particularly suitable for topical application, especially to the skin and hair, which contains: - a surfactant mixture, comprising, in particular consisting of: a / at least one anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, b / lauryl glucoside, optionally mixed with at least one other nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides as the nonionic surfactant, wherein the alkyl contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms, c / at least one zwitterionic surfactant different from amide propyl betaine, - a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, the content of which is between strictly greater than 0.05% by weight and less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - insoluble particles stably suspended in the composition, and - water.

[0020] In addition, the composition is free of amide propyl betaine zwitterionic surfactants and surfactants containing at least one sulfate group.

[0021] In addition, relative to the total weight of the composition, it preferably contains at most 0.5% by weight of gums other than cellulose gum. This means that it does not contain gums other than cellulose gum, or when it contains one or more gums other than cellulose gum, the total concentration of gums other than cellulose gum in the composition is less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] In the present specification, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the substance is suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells (especially skin or hair cells). Preferably, the substance has a pleasant odor, color and feel, and does not cause unacceptable discomfort that would prevent the user from using the composition of the present invention.

[0023] The term "insoluble particles" refers to particles that do not dissolve in the carrier of the composition (including when mixed with other components of the composition). Thus, the insoluble particles are in solid form in the composition.

[0024] The term "stable suspension" itself generally means that the particles do not precipitate or aggregate. Thus, in the composition of the present invention, precipitation of the insoluble particles contained therein is hardly observed, including after a long time, especially for a period as long as the general shelf life of the composition, which exceeds 6 months, preferably exceeds 12 months, more preferably exceeds 18 months, and preferably is 36 months. Specifically, this stability can be checked by visually observing the composition.

[0025] Preferably, the insoluble particles remain dispersed in the composition in a substantially uniform manner.

[0026] Thus, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be described as a smooth composition, and this smooth appearance is related to the very good stability of the suspension of insoluble particles in the carrier, which is advantageously obtained by the combined use of natural ingredients such as cellulose and cellulose gum. In addition to having a suspending effect, they do not negatively affect the synergistic effect of the different surfactants contained in the composition and give the composition a particularly high foaming capacity and good foam quality.

[0027] In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a lower risk of skin irritation than cosmetic compositions of the prior art.

[0028] It also has good viscosity and even does not require the use of additional ingredients with thickening effects. In this specification, the term "good viscosity" refers to the viscosity that enables the composition to be dispensed through various packages (especially tubes and pump bottles) and prevents it from slipping out of the user's hand when dispensed into the user's hand. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain additional ingredients with thickening effects. It particularly preferably does not contain alginate, carrageenan, starch, gums (such as xanthan gum, diutan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglycan gum, gum arabic, carob gum, tamarind seed gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum), etc. In addition, the composition of the present invention preferably does not contain ethylene glycol polymers (PEG) and their derivatives that have a negative impact on the environment.

[0029] In addition, the composition of the present invention is substantially free of an oil phase. Therefore, it is not an emulsion or a two-phase composition, but a single-phase fluid composition. Thus, it is particularly substantially free of fatty acids. This means that it does not contain fatty acids or their concentration is less than 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight. Similarly, it preferably does not contain emulsifiers, such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid monoesters.

[0030] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains at least 50% by weight of water based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains at least 55% by weight of water, more preferably at least 60% by weight of water, and preferably at least 65% by weight of water.

[0031] In this specification, the term "at least one" refers to a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds. Therefore, the surfactant mixture of the composition according to the present invention comprises and preferably consists of: a / a single anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants; b / a single nonionic surfactant, namely lauryl glucoside, or a plurality of nonionic surfactants, including lauryl glucoside and one or more other nonionic surfactants, the alkyl groups of the alkyl glucosides containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms; such nonionic surfactant or surfactants may optionally be mixed with one or more other nonionic surfactants, such as C8-C16 fatty alcohol glucosides, such as coco glucoside; and c / a single zwitterionic surfactant different from amide propyl betaine, or a plurality of zwitterionic surfactants different from amide propyl betaine.

[0032] The anionic surfactant selected from alaninates can be formed with any cosmetically acceptable counterion. The counterion is preferably sodium.

[0033] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant selected from alaninates is preferably selected from sodium cocoyl alaninate (INCI name) and trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate (INCI name).

[0034] Preferably, the composition of the present invention does not contain other anionic surfactants that are not alaninates. For example, it contains a single anionic surfactant, namely sodium cocoyl alaninate.

[0035] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain other nonionic surfactants that are not alkyl glucosides, wherein the alkyl contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms. For example, it contains a single nonionic surfactant, namely lauryl glucoside.

[0036] In other particular embodiments, the composition contains at least one second nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides, wherein the alkyl contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms. The alkyl glucosides are preferably selected from compounds with the INCI names octyl glucoside and decyl glucoside.

[0037] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the zwitterionic surfactant different from amide propyl betaine is selected from substances with the following INCI names: sodium caproamphoacetate, sodium caproamphopropionate, sodium capryloamphoacetate, sodium capryloamphopropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium isostearoamphoacetate, sodium isostearoamphopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium oleoamphoacetate, sodium oleoamphopropionate, sodium stearoamphoacetate, sodium stearoamphopropionate, sodium tallowamphoacetate, sodium wheat germamphoacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium isostearoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium isostearoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium stearoamphodiacetate, disodium tallowamphodiacetate, and disodium wheat germamphodiacetate.

[0038] Preferably, the at least one zwitterionic surfactant different from amide propyl betaine is selected from lauryl betaine, coco betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and these compounds can be used in the composition alone or in any mixture thereof.

[0039] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant mixture comprises a single amphoteric surfactant, namely cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0040] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain: - any surfactant of the type having a hydroxyethylsulfonic acid or hydroxyethylsulfonate group, in particular a surfactant selected from acyl hydroxyethanesulfonic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium cocoyl isethionate; and / or - any surfactant of the type having an N-methyltaurine or taurine group, in particular a surfactant selected from N-acyltaurines or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium methyl cocoyl taurate; and / or - any surfactant of the type having a sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinate group, in particular a surfactant selected from alkyl sulfosuccinates or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate; and / or - any surfactant containing at least one sulfate group (i.e., -O-SO 3 H or -SO 2 -O-group), such as lauryl polyether sulfate or lauryl sulfate.

[0041] This advantageously reduces the presence of compounds in the composition that are commonly used in cosmetic compositions for skin and hair hygiene or care, which have the drawback of being of non-natural origin, without changing the performance of the composition.

[0042] Furthermore, although sulfated surfactants have particularly desirable foaming ability, they are erosive to the epidermis. Thus, not adding these surfactants in the composition of the present invention advantageously reduces the risk of eroding the user's epidermis.

[0043] Preferably, the composition of the present invention does not contain surfactants other than: one or more alanine salts, one or more alkyl glucosides (the alkyl of which contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms, including at least lauryl glucoside), and one or more amphoteric surfactants different from amide propyl betaine.

[0044] Generally, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain as few surfactants as possible. Thus, in a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition contains no more than 6 surfactants, preferably no more than 5 surfactants, more preferably no more than 4 surfactants, and preferably contains only 3 surfactants. As mentioned above, a surfactant mixture comprising a single compound from each of the three defined surfactant families can provide high foaming capacity and form a foam of good quality, namely: an anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, the nonionic surfactant lauryl glucoside, and an amphoteric surfactant different from amide propyl betaine. This advantageously allows minimizing the number of ingredients present in the composition, thereby reducing its manufacturing cost.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the content of the surfactant mixture in the composition is from 5% to 18% by weight, preferably from 6% to 16% by weight, more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such range values can provide the composition with good foaming capacity, a foam of good quality, and the composition with good viscosity, while reducing the manufacturing cost of the composition.

[0046] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the total content of the anionic surfactant selected from alaninates is preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight.

[0047] In a particular embodiment of the invention, where the composition contains a single anionic surfactant, it is preferably sodium cocoyl aminopropionate, so that the content of the latter in the composition is preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, especially from 3% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the total content of the nonionic surfactant is preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 8% by weight, especially from 5% to 7% by weight.

[0049] Thus, relative to the total weight of the composition, the total content of lauryl glucoside as the sole nonionic surfactant in the composition is preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 8% by weight, especially from 5% to 7% by weight.

[0050] In a particular embodiment of the invention, relative to the total weight of the composition, the total content of the nonionic surfactant composed of lauryl glucoside and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides (where the alkyl contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms) is preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 8% by weight, especially from 5% to 7% by weight.

[0051] The total content of the at least one zwitterionic surfactant different from amide propyl betaine is preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, especially from 1.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, wherein the composition comprises a single zwitterionic surfactant, preferably cocamidopropyl betaine, the latter is preferably present in the composition in an amount of from 0.5% to 3% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, especially from 1.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum comprises substantially equal masses of cellulose and cellulose gum.

[0054] The cellulose and cellulose gum (also known as carboxymethyl cellulose) can be from any source, especially microbial and / or plant sources.

[0055] The cellulose is preferably in microcrystalline form, for example conforming to CAS No. 9004-34-6.

[0056] The cellulose gum is preferably sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, with CAS No. 9004-32-4.

[0057] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum is in liquid form.

[0058] Exemplarily, the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum can be a mixture sold under the name R-50, which furthermore has the advantage of containing glycerol, a compound having particularly advantageous emollient properties in the field of topical cosmetic compositions.

[0059] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the total content of the cellulose and cellulose gum mixture in the composition is preferably between a value strictly greater than 0.05% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and a value less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.9% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, and preferably less than or equal to 0.45% by weight. Relative to the total weight of the composition, the content of the cellulose and cellulose gum mixture in the composition is between a value strictly greater than 0.05% by weight and a value less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.45% by weight. Relative to the total weight of the composition, the content of the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum in the composition can be between 0.1% by weight and 0.5% by weight, in particular between 0.1% by weight and 0.45% by weight, more preferably between 0.15% by weight and 0.5% by weight, in particular between 0.15% by weight and 0.45% by weight, and preferably between 0.15% by weight and 0.3% by weight.

[0060] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the insoluble particles comprise pearlescent agents, exfoliating particles and / or microcapsules.

[0061] Pearlescent agents are common ingredients in cosmetic formulations and can provide a pearly appearance to the compositions they are contained in. In this regard, glycol distearate or ethyleneglycol distearate can be mentioned.

[0062] "Exfoliating particles" or "scrubbing particles" refer to solid and abrasive particles that, when applied to the skin using a cosmetic composition by massage, are capable of mechanically exfoliating (also known as scrubbing) the dead cells of the superficial layer of the epidermis. Typically, skin scrubbing is usually carried out by applying a composition containing exfoliating particles to the skin, massaging the skin coated with the composition, and then rinsing the composition. Then, the exfoliating particles act by friction on the skin. The skin thus becomes smooth and cell renewal is promoted.

[0063] According to the invention, the median particle size of the exfoliating particles is preferably between 10 μm and 1500 μm, more preferably between 50 μm and 1000 μm, even more preferably between 200 μm and 500 μm, for example between 250 μm and 450 μm. The "median particle size" of the exfoliating particles herein refers to the volume median diameter. The median particle size of the exfoliating particles can be measured by static light scattering using a Mastersizer type particle size analyzer.

[0064] According to the invention, the following substances can be used as exfoliating particles: - Exfoliating particles of mineral origin, such as sand, rock, perlite or clay; - Exfoliating granules of plant origin, such as kernels, leaves, stems, algae, barks, nuts or roots; and / or - Exfoliating granules of organic origin, such as polyethylene or wax-based beads.

[0065] For example, polyethylene beads or powders, perlite beads or powders, polyvinyl chloride powders, pumice (INCI name: pumice), crushed fruit pit shells such as ground almond or walnut shells, sawdust, wood powder, cork powder, glass beads, alumina (aluminum oxide), sugar crystals (sucrose), etc. can be used; or any mixture thereof.

[0066] In the present specification, the term "millicapsules" refers to entities that are generally substantially spherical in shape, with a size in the millimeter range, typically between 10 μm and 2000 μm, formed by a breakable, particularly fragile, particularly solid and particularly continuous shell that encapsulates a core containing one or more ingredients.

[0067] "Millicapsules" refers to spherical aggregates with a diameter of approximately 10 μm to 2000 μm, which contain at least one solid or liquid core encapsulated by at least one continuous shell.

[0068] The millicapsules used according to the present invention can contain any active ingredient or mixture of active ingredients that can be released during the application of the cosmetic composition of the present invention (particularly on the skin and / or hair), and the coating in the capsules can provide protection throughout the shelf life of the composition, particularly against pro-oxidant elements (such as free radicals, oxygen or ultraviolet light).

[0069] The active substance content or encapsulation rate can be very high, particularly in the order of 85% to 90% expressed as the weight percentage of the active ingredient in the total weight of the capsule.

[0070] The active ingredients can particularly include fragrances, essential oils, vitamins, etc.

[0071] The shell can be formed, for example, from polymers of marine or vegetable origin, semi-synthetic materials or synthetic materials. For example, the shell can be formed from: gum arabic, agar, agarose, maltodextrin, alginic acid or one of its salts (such as sodium alginate or calcium alginate), fats, fatty acids, cetyl alcohol, collagen, chitosan, lecithin, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharides (such as dextran or starch and its derivatives, especially starch ethers and esters), polypeptides, protein hydrolysates, sucrose, waxes, etc.; or from chemically modified cellulose (especially cellulose esters or ethers, such as cellulose acetate, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or carboxymethyl cellulose); or from polymers (such as polyacrylates, polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone).

[0072] The microcapsules used in the compositions of the present invention can be obtained by any conventional means, for example, by coating a liquid or finely dispersed solid phase with a film-forming polymer which is deposited on the material to be coated after emulsification and coagulation or interfacial polymerization.

[0073] The microcapsules used according to the present invention can be free of any pigments or colorants, or can be colored, for example, by containing one or more colored compounds in their core, their shell or both.

[0074] The content of insoluble particles in the compositions of the present invention varies according to the nature of the insoluble particles.

[0075] Thus, when the insoluble particles contain one or more pearlescent agents, especially when consisting of one or more pearlescent agents, the content of such a pearlescent agent, such as ethylene glycol distearate, is preferably from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight, especially about 0.8% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0076] When the insoluble particles include exfoliating particles, especially when consisting of exfoliating particles, the content of the exfoliating particles is from 1% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 2.2% by weight, especially about 2% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0077] When the insoluble particles contain microcapsules, especially when consisting of microcapsules, the content of the microcapsules is between 1% and 2% by weight, preferably between 1% and 1.5% by weight, especially about 1.2% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0078] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention especially comprise, in amounts based on the total weight of the composition:[[]]END]] - at least 50% by weight of water; - a surfactant mixture from 5% to 18% by weight, consisting of the following components:[[]]END]] a / one or more anionic surfactants between 1.5% and 5% by weight, especially between 3% and 4% by weight, selected from alaninates such as sodium cocoyl alaninate, b / lauryl glucoside between 3% and 10% by weight, especially between 5% and 7% by weight, used alone or in combination with at least one other nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides, where the alkyl contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms, c / at least one zwitterionic surfactant different from amidopropyl betaine between 0.5% and 3% by weight, especially between 1.5% and 2% by weight, such as coco betaine; - a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight, especially between 0.3% and 0.45% by weight, preferably in substantially equal amounts by weight; - insoluble particles stably suspended in the composition, especially pearlescent agent particles between 0.1% and 2% by weight and / or exfoliating particles between 1% and 2.5% by weight and / or microcapsules between 1% and 2% by weight.

[0079] The cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably does not contain ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

[0080] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one, i.e., one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, preferably selected from emollients, conditioners, solubilizers, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains one or more emollients, especially selected from glycerol, diglycerol, or sorbitol.

[0082] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains one or more conditioners, especially gums other than cellulose gum, especially guar gum and its derivatives, polyquaternium salts, polyglycerols, polysaccharides, squalane, etc. Preferably, the conditioner is one of guar gum or its derivatives. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the total content of the conditioner accounts for between 0.1% and 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The total content of the conditioner selected from gums other than cellulose gum (such as guar gum or its derivatives) accounts for less than 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains one or more solubilizers, especially solubilizers selected from the polyglycerol family, such as polyglycerol-4 decanoate, polyglycerol-6 caprylate, polyglycerol-3 cocoate, polyglycerol-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl oleate, coco glucoside.

[0084] As described above, in a particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition does not contain additional ingredients having a thickening effect in order to minimize the number of ingredients in the formulation. As described above, all the ingredients of the composition, in particular the surfactant mixture, advantageously confer a good viscosity to the composition, particularly a viscosity that allows the composition to not contain additional ingredients having a thickening effect, even if it contains one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, such as emollients, conditioners, solubilizers and fragrances. Thus, the number of ingredients in the composition is reduced, and thus the associated manufacturing costs are also reduced.

[0085] In other particular embodiments of the present invention, the composition still contains at least one additional ingredient having a thickening effect.

[0086] The additional ingredient having a thickening effect is preferably selected from alginates, carrageenans, starches and gums other than cellulose gums, such as gellan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglycan gum, gum arabic, carob gum, tamarind seed gum, tara gum, etc., and the total content of the additional ingredient selected from gums other than cellulose gums is less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains one or more cosmetic active agents, particularly by topical application, such as selected from humectants, antioxidants, vitamins, etc.

[0088] The total content of the cosmetic active ingredients in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably 0.05% to 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0089] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains at least one (i.e., one or more) cosmetic active agent selected from vitamins, hyaluronic acid, oat liquid, helichrysum extract, helichrysum essential oil, limnanthes alba oil (especially limnanthes alba seed oil), oat seedlings, flower acids (such as products sold under the name Flower ), gamboge extract, silybum marianum oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extract (such as products sold under the name Edelweiss), cinchona extract, caffeine, peony extract, mango butter and citron extract, and this list does not limit the present invention in any way.

[0090] The dynamic viscosity of the cosmetic composition of the present invention at 22 °C ± 2 °C is preferably greater than 700 mPa·s, preferably between 1500 mPa·s and 4000 mPa·s. For example, this viscosity can be measured by a rotational rheometer (such as Rheomat RM200 (module M2)) at a shear rate of 17.7 s -1 and a shear time of 10 s.

[0091] Depending on the type of insoluble particles contained therein, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be transparent or opaque. In the present specification, a transparent composition is generally defined as a composition having a turbidity of less than 20 NTU (nephelometric turbidity units). In the present specification, an opaque composition is generally defined as a composition having a turbidity of greater than 1000 NTU. The turbidity can be measured using a HACHT L2310 turbidity meter. Before each turbidity measurement, it is preferred to check the correct adjustment of the instrument by measuring the turbidity of two standards in a StabCal 0 to 4000 NTU standard calibration kit, and the standards are selected so as to constitute the expected value of the sample.

[0092] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention, in the desired form, can be prepared by any conventional method for preparing cosmetic compositions. Particularly preferred preparation methods within the scope of the present invention include: - Adjusting the pH to 4, for example with citric acid, in an acceptable cosmetic carrier, especially water; - Adding a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum and the insoluble particles under stirring, and stirring at a speed of 3000 rpm for, for example, 20 minutes to obtain an opaque translucent appearance; - Degassing very rapidly, for example using a vacuum chamber; - Slowly re - homogenizing, for example for 5 minutes, especially in a perforated deflocculating turbine at a rotational speed of 250 rpm, in order to resuspend the cellulose and cellulose gum and to evenly suspend the particles in the formulation; - Introducing an amphoteric surfactant at a low stirring speed of, for example, 450 rpm, for example in a perforated deflocculating turbine at a rotational speed of 450 rpm, then introducing a non - ionic surfactant previously incubated at 40 °C, and then introducing an anionic surfactant; the formulation becomes transparent; - Optionally, adding sodium benzoate; - Stirring at a speed of, for example, 450 rpm for about 20 minutes until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; - Optionally, adjusting the pH value with citric acid and then stirring at 450 rpm for 5 to 15 minutes.

[0093] In a specific embodiment, where the cosmetic composition contains at least one conditioning agent (such as a guar gum derivative), it is preferred to add the conditioning agent to water under vigorous stirring in the initial step of the method.

[0094] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used for all keratin materials, such as skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes, especially packaged in the form of hygiene products, for example in the form of products for cleaning the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, especially in the form of products for cleaning the skin and / or removing cosmetics from the skin (especially the face and / or body), in the form of bath products, in the form of shampoos, etc.

[0095] Its specific form can be body wash, shampoo or facial and / or body foaming gel.

[0096] Another aspect of the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition of the present invention for cleaning and / or caring for the skin of an individual, especially body skin and / or facial skin and / or scalp skin and / or hair, preferably by topical application.

[0097] This use preferably includes the following consecutive steps: - Applying the composition to the preferably pre-wetted skin and / or hair, - Generating foam, especially by rubbing the skin and / or hair to which the composition has been applied, and - Rinsing, preferably with water, optionally after standing for a period of time and / or optional massage.

[0098] For example, these steps can be carried out once or twice a day, such as in the morning and evening, or according to the required frequency.

[0099] The composition of the present invention is particularly useful for cleaning and / or caring for sensitive or atopic skin.

[0100] In this specification, sensitive skin refers to skin that is prone to irritation or allergic reactions due to various internal and external non-immune factors. The term atopic skin refers to skin suffering from an inflammatory disease, characterized by dry skin accompanied by itching, such as eczema or atopic dermatitis.

[0101] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of an individual's skin and / or hair, which utilizes the cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The method includes the following consecutive steps: - Applying the composition to the preferably pre-wetted skin and / or hair, - Generating foam by rubbing the composition on the skin and / or hair, - Rinsing, preferably with water.

[0102] This method can follow any feature or combination of features described above regarding the cosmetic use of the composition of the present invention.

[0103] The features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent with reference to the following examples, which are provided only as illustrative and non - limiting examples of the present invention.

[0104] Example

[0105] 1 / Example 1 : Evaluation of the suspension properties of different compounds

[0106] Suspension tests of insoluble particles were carried out on several compounds with suspension properties in formulations that conform to the present invention and are transparent, enabling rapid visual detection of the uniform distribution of insoluble particles.

[0107] For this evaluation, the formulation contains (by weight percentage of the total weight of the formulation): - Sodium cocoyl aminopropionate (3 wt% - 4 wt%) - Lauryl glucoside (5 wt% - 7 wt%) - Cocamidobetaine (1.5 wt% - 2 wt%) - Insoluble particles: millicapsules (1.2 wt%) - Test compound (according to the weight percentages shown in Table 1), - Water q.s. to 100%.

[0108] By stirring, the insoluble particles were initially uniformly suspended in the formulation.

[0109] The compositions were evaluated according to the following criteria: - Stability of the insoluble particle suspension over time, - Visual appearance (transparency, uniformity).

[0110] Table 1 gives the results for each test compound measured by the visual appearance of the formulation after about 15 minutes. Table 1

[0111] It can be seen that in the surfactant mixture of the present invention, only in the presence of the cellulose and cellulose gum mixture of the present invention are the transparency and stability of the insoluble particles satisfactory. For other compounds, a turbid appearance is quickly observed within the first few minutes after the preparation of the composition.

[0112] 2 / Example 2 : Evaluation of the range of use of the cellulose and cellulose gum mixture

[0113] For this evaluation, the formulation contains (relative to the total weight of the formulation): - Sodium cocoyl aminopropionate (3 wt% - 4 wt%), - Lauryl glucoside (5 wt% - 7 wt%), - Cocamidopropyl betaine (1.5 wt% - 2 wt%), - Insoluble particles (type and weight percentages are as follows), - 50 / 50 mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum (weight percentages are as follows), - Water q.s. to 100%.

[0114] By stirring, the insoluble particles are initially uniformly suspended in the formulation.

[0115] Whether the composition has a uniform appearance (i.e., the insoluble particles remain stably suspended in the formulation) can be confirmed or negated by visual appearance.

[0116] In the case of microcapsules with 1.2 wt% insoluble particles, a 50 / 50 mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum at a concentration of 0.3 wt% was tested. It was observed that the microcapsules remained persistently and uniformly suspended in the composition.

[0117] When the insoluble particles are pearlescent agents, more specifically ethylene glycol distearate particles, at a concentration of 0.8 wt% or 1.2 wt% by weight, the results measured by the visual appearance of the formulation are shown in Table 2. Table 2 ("-": The particles do not remain uniformly distributed in the composition and quickly settle); "++": The particles remain persistently and uniformly suspended in the composition)

[0118] These tests show that a 0.05% mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum is not sufficient to uniformly suspend 1.2% of the pearlescent agent. On the other hand, for mixtures of 0.15% and above, the pearlescent agent particles show uniform and persistent suspension in the composition.

[0119] 3 / Example 3 : Examples of the composition according to the invention

[0120] The cosmetic composition of the present invention has uniformly distributed pearlescent agent particles for beauty treatments for hair hygiene and care and conforms to the characteristics listed in Table 3 below: Ingredient (INCI name) Weight % Sodium Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3-4 Lauryl Glucoside 5-7 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.5-2.0 Water Q.S. to 100 Cellulose / Cellulose Gum 0.15 Ethylene Glycol Distearate 0.8 Guar Gum 0.3 Glycerin 0.38 Table 3 - Examples of the opaque composition of the present invention for hair hygiene and care

[0121] Another example of the present invention is a composition containing uniformly distributed microcapsules for beauty treatments for hair hygiene and care, which conforms to the characteristics listed in Table 4 below: Ingredient (INCI name) Weight % Sodium Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3-4 Lauryl Glucoside 5-7 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.5-2.0 Water Q.S. to 100 Cellulose / Cellulose Gum 0.3 Microcapsule 1.2 Guar Gum 0.3 Table 4 - Examples of the transparent composition for hair hygiene and care of the present invention

[0122] Table 5 below gives another example of the composition of the present invention containing uniformly distributed pearlescent agent particles for beauty treatments for facial and / or body skin hygiene and care: Ingredient (INCI name) Weight % Sodium Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3-4 Lauryl Glucoside 5-7 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.5-2.0 Water Q.S. to 100 Cellulose / Cellulose Gum 0.15 Ethylene Glycol Distearate 0.8 Table 5 - Examples of the opaque composition for facial and / or body hygiene and care of the present invention

[0123] Table 6 below gives another example of the composition of the present invention containing uniformly distributed microcapsules for beauty treatments for facial and / or body skin hygiene and care: Ingredient (INCI name) Weight % Sodium Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3-4 Lauryl Glucoside 5-7 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.5-2.0 Water Q.S. to 100 Cellulose / Cellulose Gum 0.3 Microcapsule 1.2 Glycerin 0.75 Table 6 - Examples of the transparent composition of the present invention for facial and / or body skin hygiene and care

[0124] 4 / Example 4: Evaluating the characteristics of the composition according to the present invention

[0125] The compositions of the present invention having the formulations in Table 7 below are evaluated according to the following criteria: - Foaming ability (quantity / mass): foam height, - Viscosity, - pH value (measured with a pH meter), - Stability of the particle suspension over time (visual observation).

[0126] To this end, the following operating steps were implemented.

[0127] To evaluate the foam height, a 250 ml stoppered graduated cylinder with an outer diameter of 38.9 cm and a height of 36 cm was used. 0.5 g of the composition was placed in the graduated cylinder, and deionized water was added to 50 ml. The graduated cylinder was stoppered and then shaken vigorously 10 times. The foam height was read and expressed in mm.

[0128] The viscosity was measured using a Rheomat RM200 rotational rheometer (M2 module) at a shear rate of 17.7 s -1 , a shear time of 10 s, and a temperature of 22 °C + / - 2 °C.

[0129] Table 7 below gives the results obtained for different compositions (Composition 1 to Composition 4): Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Composition 4 Ingredient (INCI name) Weight % Weight % Weight % Weight % Sodium Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 Lauryl Glucoside 5-7 5-7 5-7 5-7 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.5-2.0 1.5-2.0 1.5-2.0 1.5-2.0 Water Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Q.S. to 100 Cellulose / Cellulose Gum 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Guar Gum 0.3 0.3 - - Microcapsule - 1.2 - 1.2 Ethylene Glycol Distearate 0.8 - 0.8 - Properties Foam Height (mm) 200 200 200 220 Viscosity (mPa.s) 2738 4330 1022 1705 pH 5.35 5.33 5.26 5.40 Table 7

[0130] It can be seen that the four compositions of the present invention have very ideal foam heights and satisfactory viscosities.

[0131] For a test time of about 2 hours, it can also be visually observed that the particle suspension has good stability.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that, it contains: a surfactant mixture, comprising: a / at least one anionic surfactant selected from alaninates, b / lauryl glucoside optionally mixed with at least one other nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides, wherein the alkyl contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms, as the nonionic surfactant, c / at least one zwitterionic surfactant different from amide propyl betaine; a mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum, the content of which is between a value strictly greater than 0.05% by weight and a value less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; insoluble particles stably suspended in the composition; and water; the composition does not contain zwitterionic surfactants of the amide propyl betaine type and does not contain surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group, and, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition contains at most 0.5% by weight of gums other than the cellulose gum.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which contains at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the insoluble particles include a pearlescent agent, and the content of the pearlescent agent in the composition is 0.1% by weight to 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the insoluble particles include exfoliating particles, and the content of the exfoliating particles in the composition is 1% by weight to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the insoluble particles include microcapsules, and the content of the microcapsules in the composition is 1% by weight to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum includes equal masses of the cellulose and the cellulose gum.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of the mixture of cellulose and cellulose gum is between a value strictly greater than 0.05% by weight and a value less than or equal to 0.45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which contains a conditioner selected from at least one of guar gum and its derivatives, polyquaternium, polyglycerol, polysaccharides and squalane.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the content of the surfactant mixture is between 5% by weight and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the surfactant mixture contains a single anionic surfactant, and the single anionic surfactant is sodium cocoyl aminopropionate, and its content in the composition is 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the surfactant mixture contains a single amphoteric surfactant, the single amphoteric surfactant being cocamidopropyl betaine, and its content in the composition is 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one cosmetic active agent selected from vitamins, hyaluronic acid, oat liquid, helichrysum extract, helichrysum essential oil, limnanthes alba oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, gamboge extract, silybum marianum oil, niacinamide, edelweiss extract, cinchona extract, caffeine, paeonia extract, mango butter, and citron extract.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, which is in the form of a shower gel, shampoo, facial and / or body foaming gel.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, having a dynamic viscosity greater than 700 mPa·s at 22 °C, preferably between 1500 mPa·s and 4000 mPa·s.

15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 for the cleansing and / or care of the skin and / or hair.

16. The non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 15 for the cleansing and / or care of sensitive skin.

17. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method using the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, comprising the following consecutive steps: applying the composition to the skin and / or hair, preferably pre-wetted, generating foam by rubbing the composition on the skin and / or hair, and rinsing.

Images