Care and / or cosmetic composition for keratin materials comprising at least one volatile solvent, specific polyester and colorant

Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquid composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising: A) at least one volatile solvent; b) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one fat monoacid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fat monoacid; and C) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester is less than 8.0; and D) at least one colorant. The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.

Description

Field of the Invention

[0001] The object of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising a specific polyester for the field of care and / or make-up of keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0002] Many cosmetic make-up compositions containing colorants, such as foundations, concealers, lipsticks, lip glosses or mascaras, have been developed for longer wear resistance and non-transferability. This is achieved by using compositions that form a film after application. Such compositions usually contain volatile solvents that evaporate upon contact with the skin or other keratin materials, leaving a layer containing waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments and fillers. However, these compositions often feel uncomfortable to the consumer.

[0003] Poor wear resistance over time can be particularly reflected by the poor wear resistance of the color and / or the composition over time. The characteristics of this poor wear resistance can consist in a change in color (change in color, fading), which is usually due to the interaction with sebum and / or moisture secreted by the skin such as sweat in the case of a liquid foundation or with saliva in the case of a lipstick. This forces the user to reapply the cosmetic very frequently, which can be time-consuming.

[0004] In the make-up compositions of the prior art, the use of liquid or pasty polyesters has been proposed to obtain wear resistance.

[0005] Reference may be made in particular to the documents JP 2002-128623, JP 2002-128628, JP 2002-128629 and EP 1604 634, which describe polyesters of diacid dimer of linoleic acid and diglycol dimer of linoleyl alcohol with the INCI name of dilinoleyl dilinoleate, such as those sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan and those sold.

[0006] Reference may also be made to patent EP 1 857 091 B1, which describes a polyester obtained by the reaction of a) diglycerol, b) isostearic acid and c) a dimer acid (such as diacid dimer of linoleic acid) in a molar ratio a) / b) / c) of 1 / 1.4 to 1.6 / 0.5 to 0.8, such as the polyester with the INCI name of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate copolymer sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the trade name Hailucent sold.

[0007] In order to obtain retention properties in cosmetic compositions, polyesters obtained by the condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols are also provided in document FR 29316739; in particular, the polyester obtained by the condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, such as the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer).

[0008] It is also known that polyesters of hydroxylated fatty acid triglycerides and saturated fatty diacids are used to provide abrasion resistance to cosmetic compositions, especially in documents FR 2 931 069, JP 2005-325079 and JP 2006-28129. As examples of polyesters, those with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer can be specifically mentioned, such as those sold by Croda under the name Crodabond products, and also hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, such as those sold by Advanced Alcohol Industries Co., Ltd. under the name and Risocast products.

[0009] In document WO 2017103235, other pasty glycerol polyesters, especially diglycerol polyesters, have been proposed for cosmetic compositions such as mascara, especially bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2 sold by Sasol under the trademark Softisan .

[0010] During its investigations, the Applicant's company has found that liquid cosmetic compositions containing the above-mentioned polyesters are not entirely satisfactory in terms of the cosmetic abrasion resistance and non-transfer of foundations, and in terms of the moisture resistance and friction resistance of mascaras. The Applicant's company has also observed that liquid products containing the above-mentioned polyesters for lip makeup lead to rather unsatisfactory results in terms of film adhesion and cosmetic removal. These polyesters may cause dewetting during application or create a flowing film (adhesion) between the lips after they have been pressed against each other. In addition, the Applicant's company has observed that these films break into pieces when removing the cosmetics.

[0011] There is still a need to find new liquid formulations based on suitable polyesters for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, resulting in good abrasion resistance (frictional action, moisture) of the deposits and good non-transferability, without the above-mentioned drawbacks.

[0012] During its investigations, the Applicant's company has unexpectedly found that these objectives can be achieved by a liquid composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, which composition comprises, in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0013] A) at least one volatile solvent;

[0014] B) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0015] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0016] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0017] (iii) at least one fatty monobasic acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the said components (i), (ii) and (iii) being reacted in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monobasic acid; and

[0018] C) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester being less than 8.0; and

[0019] D) at least one colorant.

[0020] This finding forms the basis of the present invention.

[0021] Subject matter of the invention

[0022] Accordingly, in one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a liquid composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, which composition comprises, in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0023] A) at least one volatile solvent; and

[0024] B) at least one polyester which is the

[0025] reaction product of the following

[0026] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0027] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0028] (iii) at least one aliphatic monocarboxylic acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) being present in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid; and

[0029] C) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the total weight ratio of the non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester being less than 8.0; and

[0030] D) at least one colorant.

[0031] The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that the method comprises at least applying to the keratin material a composition as defined above.

[0032] Definition

[0033] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" should be understood to particularly mean the skin (body, face, eye contour), lips, eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0034] The term "physiologically acceptable" should be understood to mean being compatible with the skin and / or its surface growths, exhibiting a pleasant color, odor and feel and not causing unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tightness) that would tend to discourage the consumer from using such a composition.

[0035] The term "liquid composition" should be understood to mean any composition exhibiting at least one of the following characteristics:

[0036] i) flowing under its own weight at ambient temperature (20 °C - 25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013×10 5 Pa);

[0037] ii) not being solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and having a viscosity or a consistency characteristic of its hardness that can be measured;

[0038] iii) not exhibiting any specific shape, such as can be obtained by hot casting in a mold or container of a given shape.

[0039] Thus, such compositions can be found particularly in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form.

[0040] The term "polyester" should be understood to mean any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of a polycarboxylic acid with an alcohol or a diol. Its macromolecular main chain contains repeating units of its ester functional groups. The ester functional group indicates a characteristic group formed by an atom simultaneously bonded to an oxygen atom (by a double bond) and an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, the ester functional group is called a carboxylate ester, and its general formula is R-COO-R'.

[0041] The term "polyglycerol-3" should be understood to mean either pure triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol, and preferably the mixture is mainly triglycerol.

[0042] Viscosity measurement protocol

[0043] Viscosity measurements are typically carried out at 25 °C using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2, No. 3, or No. 4 rotor. The measurement is performed after rotating the rotor at a speed of 200 revolutions per minute (rpm) in the composition for 10 minutes (at the end of which, the viscosity and the rotor speed are observed to be stable).

[0044] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may exhibit a viscosity between 0.1 and 25 Pa·s at 25 °C, preferably between 0.2 and 20 Pa·s.

[0045] Preferably, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention at 25 °C may be between 0.2 and 10 Pa·s.

[0046] In particular, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention at 25 °C may be between 0.1 Pa·s (rotor 2) and 25 Pa·s (rotor 4), preferably between 0.2 Pa·s (rotor 2) and 20 Pa·s (rotor 4), and even better between 0.2 Pa·s (rotor 2) and 10 Pa·s (rotor 4).

[0047] Consistency measurement protocol

[0048] According to a specific form, the composition according to the present invention exhibits a consistency with a hardness at 25 °C characterized by being less than or equal to 250 g, preferably in the range of 20 to 150 g, and even more preferably 25 to 100 g.

[0049] The consistency can be measured according to the following protocol:

[0050] The measuring device is a TA- sold by Stable Micro Systems It is equipped with a unit for measuring 5 kgf and a cylindrical rotor made of Delrin with a diameter of 12.7 mm (1 / 2 inch). The composition is thermostatically controlled at 20 °C. Then, using a metal spatula, an excess amount is placed in a container with a diameter of 60 mm and a depth of 22 mm. The product is spread out to avoid any air pockets without pounding it to prevent deformation. Subsequently, the container is leveled using the spatula to make the surface as uniform as possible. Then, the container is covered with a watch glass to limit the evaporation of the solvent present in the formulation for about 10 minutes. The options selected for this measurement method are as follows:

[0051] Test mode: Compression measurement

[0052] Trigger force: 2.0 g

[0053] Pre-speed: 0.5 mm / sec

[0054] Test speed: 0.5 mm / sec

[0055] Temperature: 20 °C ± 1 °C

[0056] Penetration distance: 5 mm

[0057] Three consecutive measurements are taken at points that are at least 10 mm from the edge of the container and at least 12 mm apart. The container is held in place during the measurement. The value retained is the average of the maximum values obtained at each measurement.

[0058] Volatile solvent

[0059] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile solvent.

[0060] In the context of the present invention, the term "volatile solvent" is to be understood as meaning a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and that exhibits a vapor pressure greater than 0.1 mmHg at 20 °C and preferably between 0.1 and 300 mmHg, even more preferably between 0.5 and 200 mmHg.

[0061] Among the volatile solvents, mention may be made of:

[0062] - Water;

[0063] - Monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0064] - Esters of liquid acids and alcohols, such as methyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, isoamyl acetate or ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate;

[0065] - Ketones that are liquid and volatile at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone;

[0066] - Volatile polyols, such as propylene glycol;

[0067] - Volatile ethers, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxyethane or diethyl ether;

[0068] - Volatile glycol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, butyl diglycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether or propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate;

[0069] - Volatile oils.

[0070] According to a particular form of the invention, the volatile solvent is selected from:

[0071] - Water;

[0072] - Monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0073] - Volatile oils;

[0074] - Their mixtures.

[0075] Water

[0076] The water suitable for the present invention may be demineralized water, floral water such as cornflower water, and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche-Posay water, and / or thermal water.

[0077] C 2 -C 6 monohydric alcohol

[0078] The monohydric alcohol according to the invention preferably contains 2 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 2 to 4 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0079] The monohydric alcohol may be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, where Ra represents a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl group containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0080] As monohydric alcohols, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol may be mentioned, and more particularly ethanol.

[0081] According to an advantageous embodiment, the amount of the monohydric alcohol varies from 0% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and still more preferably from 3% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Volatile oil

[0083] The term "oil" should be understood to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 Pa).

[0084] The volatile oil according to the invention may be selected from the group consisting of: hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" denotes an oil containing at least one Si-O group and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0086] The term "hydrocarbon oil" should be understood to mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxyl functional groups.

[0087] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" should be understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating within less than one hour upon contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at ambient temperature and have, in particular, a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapor pressure in the range from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, especially in the range from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa and more particularly in the range from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0088] As examples of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of volatile silicone oils such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 2 to 8 centistokes (2×10 -6 to 8×10 -6 m 2 / s) and containing in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing an alkyl or alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, particular mention may be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0089] The volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be selected from branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes.

[0090] As C 8 -C 16 isoparaffins (also known as isoparaffins) of petroleum origin, particular mention may be made of isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isocetane and, for example, under the trade name or Oils for sale.

[0091] Branched C 8 -C 16 esters such as isocetyl neopentanoate may also be mentioned. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold by Shell under the name Shell Those for sale.

[0092] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be selected from volatile straight-chain alkanes containing from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0093] As examples of straight-chain alkanes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the alkanes (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon) described in the patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 of Cognis. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols obtained from coconut oil or palm oil per se.

[0094] As examples of straight-chain C 6 -C 14 alkanes, mention may be made of n-hexane (C 6 ), n-heptane (C 7 ), n-octane (C 8 ), n-nonane (C 9 ), n-decane (C 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), n-tetradecane (C 14 ) and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Particular mention may be made of n-dodecane (C and n-tetradecane (C ) sold by Sasol under the index numbers Parafol 12 and Parafol 14 ), as well as mixtures thereof.

[0096] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, a 85 / 15 weight ratio dodecane / tetradecane mixture sold by Biosynthis under the index number Vegelight may be used.

[0097] According to yet another embodiment, a volatile straight-chain C 9 -C 12Alkane mixtures, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the reference number Vegelight Products for sale.

[0098] According to yet another embodiment, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), such as those obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the application WO 2008 / 155059 from Corning and such as those obtained under the trade name Cetiol by BASF The kind that sells.

[0099] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from branched C 8 -C 16 Alkanes, and more particularly isododecane, a volatile straight chain C 9 -C 12 A mixture of alkanes and n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ).

[0100] The volatile oil is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content of less than 60.0% by weight, preferably less than 50.0% by weight and more preferably still less than 40.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] According to a preferred form of the invention, the volatile solvent is present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight and more preferably still from 20% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of volatile solvent to the amount of polyester is greater than 1.0.

[0103] Polyglycerol-3 / dimer acid / fatty C 8 -C 30 Monoacid polyester

[0104] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0105] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0106] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0107] (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) being reacted in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid.

[0108] The polyesters of the present invention and their synthesis are described in patent applications US 2021 / 10259945, US2021 / 10259946 and US2021 / 10259930.

[0109] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of polyester as the active material varies from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.

[0111] The term "substantially non-sequential reaction product" should be understood to mean a product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0112] The term "completely non-sequential reaction of reactive components (i)-(iii)" should be understood to mean that each of the total amounts of reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the start of the reaction.

[0113] In one embodiment of the present invention, each of the total amounts of reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the start of the reaction, that is, the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70%-100%, or 75%-100%, or 80%-100%, or 85%-100%, or 90%-100%, or 95%-100%, or 97%-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) is added to the reaction vessel before the start of the reaction.

[0114] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into the reaction vessel and then inducing a completely random addition of dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0115] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly] 3 -OH, where Gly designates the glycerol residue after removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0116] The polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol according to the present invention contains polyglycerols which can be any product of oligomeric condensation of glycerol. They preferably correspond to formula (I):

[0117] [Chemical formula 1]

[0118] H[-O-Gly-]n-OH (I)

[0119] wherein each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average value from 2 to 10.

[0120] Generally, most Gly groups have the formula -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -, although etherified residues at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the scope of "Gly" and can thus also be present.

[0121] Examples of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I), wherein n particularly has values from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5 and especially 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols within these ranges.

[0122] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include mixtures of polyglycerols having the following distribution, where all weight percentages are based on the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture:

[0123] - Glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, and in a preferred manner 0% to 15% by weight;

[0124] - Diglycerol: 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 35% by weight, and in a preferred manner 20% to 32% by weight;

[0125] - Triglycerol: 10% to 65% by weight, preferably 15% to 60% by weight, and in a preferred manner 18% to 55% by weight;

[0126] - Tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, and in a preferred manner 8% to 20% by weight;

[0127] - Pentaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, and in a preferred manner 0% to 5% by weight;

[0128] - Hexaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, and in a preferred manner 0% to 5% by weight;

[0129] - Heptaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, and in a preferred manner 0% to 3% by weight;

[0130] - Octaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, and in a preferred manner 0% to 3% by weight;

[0131] - Nonaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, and in a preferred embodiment 0% to 2% by weight;

[0132] - Decaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, and in a preferred embodiment 0% to 2% by weight.

[0133] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises the following polyglycerol distribution: relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture,

[0134] Glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight;

[0135] Diglycerol: 15% to 40% by weight;

[0136] Triglycerol: 10% to 55% by weight;

[0137] Tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight;

[0138] Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0% to 15% by weight.

[0139] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture consists of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol that is at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0140] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 consists of the following; at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; where all weight percentages are relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0141] Particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 contains at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0142] Such polyglycerol-3 compositions can be analyzed to determine their median or "average" polyglycerol number. The above examples of polyglycerol with narrow and wide distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3 because it is the substance closest to the integer of the average value and / or median.

[0143] Dimer acid

[0144] The dimer acid may be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched, such as, for example, the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid and from their anhydrides.

[0145] Dimer fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by catalytic dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0146] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference is made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and Physical Properties, Reactions and Applications", ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0147] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain trifunctional and polyfunctional carboxylic acids to a lesser extent. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0148] The preferred dimer acid is typically derived from a C-rich 18 Ester groups of triglycerides, which can be hydrolyzed to produce unsaturated fats C 18 Monoacids. The starting material can be derived from tallow and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as linseed, soybean, pumpkin and walnut can be used. The target monoacid used in this reaction is rich in oleic and linoleic forms, which are described in the list of fatty acids included below. Dimerization mainly achieves dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products, or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction mainly (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) produces dimer acid (C 36 diacid), but also produces C 54 Trimer acid (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0149] In one case, a standard dimer acid (Pripol ), which contains 72% by weight of dimer acid and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

[0150] In another case, a hydrogenated standard dimer acid (Radiacid ) from Oleon is used, which contains 87% by weight of dimer acid and 10% by weight of trimer acid. In both cases, the polymers described are characterized by higher molecular weights, more hydrophobic properties, and higher viscosities than those that can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and performance quality of these polymers.

[0151] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0152] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimer C 18 fatty acid, which is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C 18 fatty acid and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0153] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains trimer acid in an amount ranging from about 5% to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0154] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid mainly (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or even better at most 90% by weight, or even better still at most 85% by weight) contains hydrogenated dimer acid (C 36 diacid), and also contains hydrogenated C 54 trimer acid (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).

[0155] Fatty C 8 -C 30 Monobasic acid

[0156] Fatty C 8 -C 30 monoacids can include natural or refined fatty acids such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, etc., but these contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful fatty monoacids can be straight-chain, branched-chain, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials, which have acidity provided by the carboxylic acid moiety.

[0157] Acids suitable for the present invention include caprylic acid (C 8 ), pelargonic acid (C 9 ), capric acid (C 10 ), undecanoic acid (C 11 ), lauric acid (C 12 ), tridecanoic acid (C 13 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), pentadecanoic acid (C15 ) Palmitic acid (C 16 ) Margaric acid (C 17 ) Stearic acid (C 18 ) Isostearic acid (C 18 ) Nonadecanoic acid (C 19 ) Arachidic acid (C 20 ) Behenic acid (C 22 ) and lignoceric acid (C 24 ).

[0158] A comparison of stearic acid and isostearic acid shows that the branching of isostearic acid results in a higher melting point and a lower viscosity at ambient temperature compared to the solid material of stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be used to process the starting materials and also enables the esters made with this acid to maintain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids typically contain a single methyl branch along a straight-chain carbon chain and are produced by microbial action in nature. Isostearic acid is obtainable as a reaction by-product in the production of the above-mentioned dimer acids.

[0159] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use unsaturated, straight-chain, and branched-chain fatty monocarboxylic acids. These unsaturated acids can include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), isoleic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), trans-linoleic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), γ-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), eicosenoic acid (C20:1), cetoleic acid (C20:1), dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (C20:3), eicosatrienoic acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), docosahexaenoic acid (C22:6), and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the name means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0160] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0161] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:

[0162] (i) At least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture, which contains at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0163] (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid, which contains at least 60% by weight, in each case relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid, of hydrogenated C 36 dicarboxylic acid and 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C 54 tricarboxylic acid; and

[0164] (iii) isostearic acid.

[0165] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and subsequently inducing a completely random addition of the dimer acid and the isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0166] In one embodiment, it is preferred that the total degree of esterification (total esterification) of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments is from 24% to 74%, and the degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments initiated by the individual dimer acid (esterification with dimer acid) is from 20% to 40%. Even more importantly, the degree of esterification initiated by the end-capping unit (esterification with monocarboxylic acid) is also defined in the present specification, and it is important to maintain the esterification with monocarboxylic acid at 4% to 40%.

[0167] Preferably, the total esterification is from 28% to 57%, wherein the esterification with dimer acid is from 20% to 30% and the esterification with monocarboxylic acid is between 8% and 27%.

[0168] Even more preferably, the total esterification is from 33% to 48%, wherein the esterification with dimer acid is from 20% to 28% and the esterification with monocarboxylic acid is between 13% and 20%.

[0169] Even more preferably, the total esterification is from 24% to 74%, wherein the esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is from 20% to 40% and the esterification with monocarboxylic acid is between 4% and 40%.

[0170] Even more preferably, the total esterification is from 28% to 57%, wherein the esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is from 20% to 30% and the esterification with monocarboxylic acid is between 8% and 27%.

[0171] Even still more preferably, the total esterification is about 40%, wherein the esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is about 20% and the esterification with monocarboxylic acid is about 20%.

[0172] Even still more preferably, the total esterification is about 40%, wherein the esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is about 27% and the esterification with monocarboxylic acid is about 13%.

[0173] In one embodiment, the components of the reaction are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of fatty acid.

[0174] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 moles of dimer acid, and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.

[0175] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 moles of dimer acid, and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0176] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of isostearic acid.

[0177] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 moles of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.

[0178] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 moles of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0179] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of isostearic acid.

[0180] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 moles of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.

[0181] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 moles of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0182] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 moles of hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid and 0.67 moles of isostearic acid.

[0183] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 moles of hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0184] By adjusting the molar ratio of the terminated fatty acids and by balancing the amounts of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of elongation and termination of the dimer acid-polyglycerol such that, for example, much higher viscosities are produced by crosslinking with trimer acid.

[0185] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be >50,000 mPa.s and <5,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0186] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >75,000 mPa.s and <2,500,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0187] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >100,000 mPa.s and <2,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0188] In the most preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >1,000,000 mPa.s and <2,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0189] The viscosity is measured using a rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Rough or smooth double plates with a diameter of 50 mm are used, covered with the polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans are performed. The polyesters of the present invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and thus have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers of this specification have shown a viscosity decrease with decreasing temperature. Therefore, the viscosity measurements are reported at precisely controlled temperatures and typically at a shear rate of 1. These values are reported in mPa.s.

[0190] The polyesters of the present invention are characterized by a weight average molecular weight of >2500 Da and <1,000,000 Da measured by GC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0191] The GC column used for these tests consists of: Phenolgel, 300 × 4.6 mm; using a continuous tetrahydrofuran (THF) phase and injecting it at 0.35 ml / min, the column oven is maintained at 40 °C; 50 μl injection and Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used are strictly linear polystyrenes intended to be monodisperse. Narrow range polystyrene GC calibration standards are prepared as the mobile phase and have maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da, 560,000 Da, 65,500 Da, 28,500 Da, 10,100 Da, 1,680 Da, 580 Da, and 208 Da. Using standard methods, the weight average molecular weight and number average molecular weight are automatically calculated by standard GC software.

[0192] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester described has a weight average molecular weight of >4000 Da and <250 000 Da as measured by GC using linear polystyrene standards. In the most preferred embodiment, the polymer described has a weight average molecular weight of >5000 Da and <150 000 Da as measured by GC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0193] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the present invention exhibits a combination of a weight average molecular weight of >5000 Da and <150 000 Da as measured by GC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity of >100 000 mPa·s and <2 000 000 mPa·s at 25 °C.

[0194] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:

[0195] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, which contains in each case at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0196] (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid, which contains in each case at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C 36 dioic acid and 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C 54 triacid; and

[0197] (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer exhibits a combination of a weight average molecular weight of >5000 Da and <15 000 Da as measured by GC using linear polystyrene standards and a pure polymer viscosity of >100 000 mPa·s and <2 000 000 mPa·s at 25 °C; and wherein the copolymer is further characterized in that it is completely esterified by approximately 40%, esterified by approximately 27% with hydrogenated dimer acid and esterified by approximately 13% with monocarboxylic acid.

[0198] In practice, in view of the starting components containing a series of polyglycerol units and a series of dimer acid and trimer acid contents, the actual (and non-theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid moieties (as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography) can be used to adjust the above values. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structures of polyglycerol-3 and C 36 dimer acid. Therefore, the actual ranges may be slightly different from the values indicated above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

[0199] More usefully, the degree of polymerization is defined by the final acid value. Based on the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid, and polyacid fractions present, the initial acid value can be reliably calculated from the actual acid value determined by the starting components used.

[0200] For example, the initial total acid value (“AV”, which is typically defined as mg of KOH / g of total reactants) is 135 AV. This includes, for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid, 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid. All of the above preferred ratio embodiments have corresponding initial AVs that can be calculated. When the AV units decrease during the polymerization reaction, this ratio gives the percentage of the reaction conversion rate from the total initial reactive acid fraction to the final residual acid fraction.

[0201] Therefore, the completion rate of the reaction is defined by:

[0202] [Equation 1]

[0203] (1 - final AV) / initial AV.

[0204] In one embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <25 mg of KOH / g of the polymer.

[0205] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <10 mg of KOH / g of the polymer.

[0206] In the most preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <5 mg of KOH / g of the polymer.

[0207] Since the completion rate of the reaction is defined by Equation 1 - final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction for such a mixture used to obtain the final polymer is >80%.

[0208] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction for such a mixture used to obtain the final polymer is >90%.

[0209] In the most preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction for such a mixture used to obtain the final polymer is >95%.

[0210] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is the reaction product of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid, and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of document US2021 / 0259945.

[0211] Non-volatile oil

[0212] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester is less than 8.0, and more preferably varies from 0.5 to 5.

[0213] The term "non-volatile oil" is to be understood as meaning an oil which remains on the skin or on keratin fibres for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and which in particular has a vapour pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, according to the vapour pressure (standard OECD 104), the vapour pressure can be measured according to a static method or by an effusion method via isothermal thermogravimetric analysis.

[0214] The non-volatile oil according to the invention may be chosen from the group consisting of: hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0215] As examples of non-volatile oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0216] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the name Miglyol and sold; branched C 18 - C 36 triglycerides of fatty acids and glycerol, such as that sold by Stéarineries Dubois under the name DUB TGI (INCI name: triglyceride of C18-36 acids);

[0217] - straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, paraffin oil, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane;

[0218] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether;

[0219] - synthetic esters, in particular synthetic esters of fatty acids of the formula R1COOR2, such as isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoic acid C 12 - C 15 alkyl esters, triheptanoin, hexyl laurate, isopentyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, heptyl undecylenate, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl trimellitate;

[0220] - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature and contain branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, or oleyl alcohol;

[0221] - Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid;

[0222] - Carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate;

[0223] - Acetates;

[0224] - Citrates;

[0225] - Polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone) (specifically having a viscosity of 50 to 500 cSt (10 -6 m 2 / s), especially 350 cSt (10 -6 m 2 / s)), such as commercial products sold under the name Belsil DM from Wacker and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone 350 CS from Dow Corning, and more particularly polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone) having a viscosity of 50 to 150 cSt (10 350 CS from Dow Corning, and more particularly polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone) having a viscosity of 50 to 150 cSt (10 -6 m 2 / s), especially 100 cSt (10 -6 m 2 / s), such as commercial products sold under the name Belsil DM from Wacker and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100 from Dow Corning; and

[0227] - Phenylated silicones, such as phenyltrimethylsiloxane, phenyldimethylsiloxane, phenyl(trimethylsilyloxy)diphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylsiloxane, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxane, and (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsilyloxy silicate; and

[0228] - Mixtures thereof.

[0229] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil will be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably from triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0230] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises:

[0231] A) at least one volatile solvent as defined above; and

[0232] B) at least one oily solution, said at least one oily solution comprising:

[0233] a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0234] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0235] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0236] (iii) at least one fatty monobasic acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molar ratio of these components (i), (ii) and (iii) being 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid; and

[0237] b) at least one non-volatile oil H 1 ;

[0238] C) optionally at least one non-volatile oil H 1 identical or different from said oil H 2 ;

[0239] D) at least one colorant;

[0240] The weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester is less than 8.0.

[0241] Oil H 1 and oil H 2 are identical or different and may be selected from those described above.

[0242] According to a particular form, oil H 1 and oil H 2 are identical and denote triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0243] The oily solution of the polyester of the invention can be obtained by mixing the polyester with a non-volatile oil or oil H 1It is obtained by mixing at about 80 °C - 100 °C. Subsequently, the combined mixture is further cooled to 50 °C - 70 °C for discharging from the reactor and storage.

[0244] The oily solution of the polyester of the present invention preferably contains a concentration of polyester of 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably 30% to 90% by weight, and more particularly 50% to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the mixture.

[0245] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains an oily solution, which contains triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid at 40% by weight and polyglycerol-3 with a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 at 60% by weight based on the total weight of the oily solution, hydrogenated C 36 a polyester of dimer acid and isostearic acid, as described in Examples 10 (copolymer) and 28 (oily mixture) of document US2021 / 0259945.

[0246] According to a particularly preferred form of the present invention, the composition contains an oily solution, which contains:

[0247] a) a polyester obtained by the reaction of:

[0248] (i) polyglycerol-3; and

[0249] (ii) hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid; and

[0250] (iii) isostearic acid, and the components (i), (ii) and (iii) of the reaction are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid; and

[0251] b) triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid, and the mixture has the following as the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Triglyceride of Caprylic / Capric Acid.

[0252] Such an oily solution is sold by Nouryon under the name SolAmaze and contains 60% by weight of polyester as the active material and 40% by weight of triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid based on the total weight of the oily solution.

[0253] Colorant

[0254] The composition according to the present invention contains at least one colorant.

[0255] According to a specific form of the present invention, the colorant may be selected from powder colorants, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0256] Powdery colorant

[0257] The powder colorant may be selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0258] The term "pigment" should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous medium and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored and inorganic and / or organic.

[0259] According to a specific embodiment, the pigments used according to the present invention are selected from inorganic pigments.

[0260] The term "inorganic pigment" should be understood to mean any pigment corresponding to the definition in the chapter "Pigments, Inorganic" in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the inorganic pigments used in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconia or ceria, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide or metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 、Ti 3 O 5 、Ti 2 O 3 、TiO, in the form of a mixture with TiO 2 of ZrO 2 、ZrO 2 、Nb 2 O 5 、CeO 2 、or ZnS.

[0261] The size of the pigments used in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0262] According to a specific form of the present invention, the pigments exhibit a certain size, which is characterized in that D

[50] is greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0263] This size is measured using a MasterSizer from Malvern Commercial particle size analyzers of the [type] measure by static light scattering, which enables the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles in a wide range extending from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data is processed based on the conventional Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicronic; it enables the determination of the "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the following publication: Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0264] D

[50] represents the maximum size at which 50% is presented by volume of the particles.

[0265] According to a specific form of the invention, the inorganic pigments include a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating; the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0266] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from the following: metal soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0267] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with one of the N-acyl amino acids or their salts, and the N-acyl amino acid can contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoacyl.

[0268] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with N-acyl amino acid derivatives, and the N-acyl amino acid derivatives can be in particular one of the glutamic acid derivatives and / or their salts, and more particularly stearoyl glutamate salts, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. As an example of a pigment treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of the titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the trade name and sold.

[0269] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate. As an example of a pigment treated with isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate (ITT), mention may be made of those sold by Kobo Co., Ltd. under the trade name (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and (Iron Oxide CI 77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) titanium dioxide pigments as well as black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments.

[0270] The pigments which can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0271] The term "organic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment corresponding to the definition in the chapter "Pigments, organic" in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, peronone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0272] The organic pigments may be selected, for example, from the following: carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 red pigments included in the color index, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0273] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may in particular consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder providing for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0274] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" should be understood to mean an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, and the assembly thus obtained remains insoluble during use.

[0275] Inorganic substrates on which the dye is adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0276] Among the organic dyes, carmine can be mentioned. Products known by the following names can also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), or D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0277] As an example of a lake, a product known by the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1) can be mentioned.

[0278] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdery colorant of the inorganic pigment type, which powdery colorant is particularly selected from coated or uncoated metal oxides and more particularly from titanium dioxide or iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0279] Pearlescent agents can be selected from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or coated with bismuth oxychloride; colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium dioxide-coated mica with iron oxide, particularly titanium dioxide-coated mica with iron blue or chromium oxide, or titanium dioxide-coated mica with organic pigments of the above type; and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0280] Preferably, the powdery colorant is preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] Water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant

[0282] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant, and preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0283] For obvious reasons, this quantity varies significantly depending on the intensity of the desired color effect and the color strength provided by the colorant under consideration, and its adjustment undoubtedly falls within the capabilities of a person skilled in the art.

[0284] Additional colorants suitable for the present invention can be fat-soluble.

[0285] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble colorant" should be understood to mean any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound that is soluble in an oily phase or a solvent miscible with fatty substances and is capable of imparting color.

[0286] As fat-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention, synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes can be specifically mentioned, such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenoids (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, or curcumin.

[0287] Additional colorants suitable for the present invention can be water-soluble.

[0288] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" should be understood to mean any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a solvent miscible with water and is capable of imparting color.

[0289] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes can be specifically mentioned, such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus or elder), caramel color, or riboflavin.

[0290] Cosmetic composition

[0291] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the composition as defined above in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0292] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition must be applied and also to the appearance in which the composition must be packaged.

[0293] The composition according to the present invention can additionally contain additives commonly used in care and / or cosmetic products, such as:

[0294] - Active agents, such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts;

[0295] - UV screening agents;

[0296] - Fillers;

[0297] - Waxes;

[0298] - Hydrophilic gelling agents;

[0299] - Film-forming agents;

[0300] - Lipophilic gelling agents;

[0301] - Perfumes;

[0302] - Preservatives;

[0303] - And mixtures thereof.

[0304] For those skilled in the art, it is routine to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties of these compositions are not thereby affected.

[0305] Filler

[0306] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, which makes it possible in particular to confer on them additional properties of improved stability, abrasion resistance, covering power and / or mattness.

[0307] The term "filler" is to be understood as meaning any shape of colorless or white solid particles provided in insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They make it possible to confer body or firmness on the composition and / or to confer softness and uniformity on the cosmetic.

[0308] The fillers may be inorganic or organic.

[0309] Preferably, they may be selected from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.

[0310] The term "natural compound" is to be understood as meaning a compound obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals by (where appropriate) one or more physical methods such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0311] The term "compound of natural origin" should be understood to mean natural compounds that have undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments (resulting in changes that do not affect the basic quality of the compound) and / or compounds mainly containing natural ingredients that have or have not undergone transformation. As non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments that result in changes that do not affect the basic quality of natural compounds, mention may be made of those permitted by a controlling body such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized handbooks in the field (such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, Volume 120, 9:10).

[0312] The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may have a layered, spherical, globular or fibrous form or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0313] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with amino acids or any other substance that promotes the dispersibility and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0314] a) Inorganic filler

[0315] As examples of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, natural or synthetic mica such as synthetic fluorophlogopite, silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or a complex of silica and titanium dioxide (such as that sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. under the series).

[0316] b) Organic filler

[0317] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powder, such as that sold by Daito Co., Ltd. under the series.

[0318] Preferably, the filler is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0319] Wax

[0320] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "wax" is to be understood as meaning a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), which has a reversible solid / liquid state change and has a melting point of greater than or equal to 40 °C, which melting point can range up to 120 °C.

[0321] Particular interest is paid to the waxes described in the literature Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA.

[0322] Such waxes can in particular be natural, but can also be synthetic.

[0323] The term "natural" wax is to be understood as indicating any wax that pre-exists in nature or that can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

[0324] Among the natural waxes, mention may in particular be made of waxes known as fossil waxes, including those of petroleum origin, such as ozokerite, wax coal; microcrystalline waxes also known as paraffin waxes, including slack wax, slack wax raffinate, dewaxed slack wax, soft wax, semi-refined wax, filtered wax, refined wax; and microcrystalline waxes known as microwax, including bright stock slack wax. Fossil waxes also contain montan wax (also known as lignite wax), or peat wax.

[0325] As natural waxes other than fossil waxes, mention may be made of vegetable waxes.

[0326] As examples of vegetable waxes, mention may be made of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, Copernicia alba wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, flax wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, mixtures thereof and derivatives thereof.

[0327] As natural waxes other than vegetable waxes, mention may be made of beeswax.

[0328] The term "synthetic" wax shall be understood to denote a wax whose synthesis requires one or more chemical reactions carried out by humans.

[0329] Among synthetic waxes, a distinction can be made between semi-synthetic waxes and fully synthetic waxes. Synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch process (e.g., composed of paraffins with a carbon atom number ranging from 20 to 50) or polyolefin waxes (e.g., homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, propylene, or butene, and actually even longer-chain α-olefins). The latter can be obtained by the thermomechanical degradation of plastic polyethylene, the Ziegler process, the high-pressure process, or also by a process catalyzed by a metallocene entity. These waxes can be crystalline, partially crystalline, or amorphous. The above synthetic waxes are generally non-polar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example, by one or more of the following reactions: air oxidation, grafting, esterification, neutralization with metal soaps, amidation, direct copolymerization, or addition reactions.

[0330] Preferably, these waxes will be selected from waxes of plant origin, such as carnauba wax.

[0331] Gelling agent

[0332] Depending on the viscosity of the composition desired to be obtained, one or more hydrophilic (i.e., soluble or dispersible in water) gelling agents and / or one or more lipophilic (i.e., soluble or dispersible in oil) gelling agents can be incorporated into the composition of the present invention.

[0333] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent and / or the lipophilic gelling agent will be selected from natural gelling agents or gelling agents of natural origin.

[0334] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0335] As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of polysaccharide biopolymers, such as pullulan, xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, scleroglucan, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan, gellan gum, alginates, cellulose (such as cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl cellulose), and mixtures thereof.

[0336] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0337] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of lipophilic clays.

[0338] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition of the present invention additionally contains at least one lipophilic clay.

[0339] The term "lipophilic clay" is to be understood as meaning any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0340] Clays denote materials based on hydrated aluminosilicates and / or silicates having a layered structure.

[0341] Clays can be natural or synthetic, and they are rendered lipophilic by treatment with alkylammonium salts such as C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0342] They can be selected from bentonites (in particular bentonite, hectorite and montmorillonite), beidellite, steatite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, palygorskite, vermiculite and zeolites.

[0343] They are preferably selected from hectorite and bentonite.

[0344] According to a particularly preferred form, lipophilic clays selected from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites will be used, in particular those modified with C 10 to C 22 quaternary ammonium chlorides, such as:

[0345] - bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as the commercial products sold by BYK Additives Inc under the names Claytone Garamite LG-M, MP 250, VZ and VZ-V XR; or the commercial products sold by Bentec S.p.A under the names B3, B4, B7, B8, ED, GM, S4 and SD;

[0346] - bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the following commercial products: Dub Velvet from Stearinerie Dubois Fils Myglyol Gel from Cremer Oleo from BYK Additives CGT6030, DBA 6060, FTN, FTN 1564, IPM, LAN or LAN 1563;

[0347] - Lithium montmorillonite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Lithium magnesium stearate bentonite), such as that sold under the name 38VCG rheology additive by Elementis Specialties;

[0348] - Lithium montmorillonite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as those sold under the names Gel DOA V, Gel EUG V, Gel IHD V, Gel ISD V, Gel MIOV, Gel PTM V, SS-71V, VS-5PC V or VS-5 by commercial products sold by Elementis Specialties; commercial products sold by Créations Couleurs under the names Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS or Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID; commercial products sold by Next Step Laboratories Stop under the names NS Gel or NS MGel sold by Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0349] The lipophilic clay may be present in the composition in a concentration ranging preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0350] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may also be made of dextrin and esters of fatty acids (especially C 12 to C 24 , preferably C 14 to C 18 fatty acids), or mixtures thereof.

[0351] More preferably, the dextrin ester is dextrin and C12 -C 18 , especially C 14 -C 18 esters of fatty acids.

[0352] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the dextrin esters are selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate.

[0353] Particularly preferably, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. The latter may be selected, for example, from those sold by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd. under the name Rheopearl Rheopearl and KL2.

[0354] Preferably, the dextrin ester may be present in the composition at a concentration in the range of preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0355] Film-forming agent

[0356] In the present patent application, the term "film-forming agent" should be understood to mean any molecule which, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, is capable of forming a continuous deposit on a support, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent.

[0357] As film-forming agents, mention may be made of alkyl celluloses, especially those in which the alkyl residues contain between 2 and 6, especially between 2 and 3, carbon atoms.

[0358] According to a particular embodiment, the alkyl cellulose as defined above, and preferably ethyl cellulose, is present in an amount in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, expressed as dry matter of ethyl cellulose, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0359] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may be present in an amount of 4% to 20% by weight (expressed as dry matter of alkyl cellulose), more particularly 4.5% to 15% by weight (expressed as dry matter of alkyl cellulose), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0360] Alkyl cellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain of β - anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit exhibits three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of which are capable of reacting according to the following reaction:

[0361] RONa + R'Cl → ROR' + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose group and R' represents C 2 -C 6 alkyl.

[0362] Advantageously, the alkyl cellulose may be selected from ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose.

[0363] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkyl cellulose may be ethyl cellulose.

[0364] It is a cellulose ether.

[0365] For each anhydroglucose unit, complete substitution of all three hydroxyl groups would result in a degree of substitution of 3, in other words, an alkoxy content of 54.88%.

[0366] The ethyl cellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a polymer exhibiting an ethoxy degree of substitution in the range of 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit (in other words, including an ethoxy content in the range of 44% to 50%).

[0367] The alkyl cellulose may be used in the form of a powder, such as a product from the Ethocel standard series from Dow Chemicals or the commercial product Aqualon EC sold by Ashland.

[0368] Form of the composition

[0369] The composition according to the invention has many applications, and these applications relate to all cosmetic products containing colorants.

[0370] The composition of the invention may be provided in the form of a milk, cream, paste, and gel. It may be anhydrous or contain an aqueous phase.

[0371] Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression "anhydrous composition" indicates a composition containing less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, and actually even less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to its total weight, and in particular a composition free of water.

[0372] The composition containing an aqueous phase may be in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, in the form of a multiple emulsion, or also in the form of a simple dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase (or vice versa).

[0373] The composition according to the invention may be provided in the form of a colored composition for skin care, in the form of a sunscreen composition. If it contains cosmetic active agents, it may be used as a substrate for the skin (such as hands or face) or lips (lip balm, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind).

[0374] The composition of the present invention can also be provided in the following forms: colored cosmetic products for the skin, especially the face, such as foundation, eyeshadow, concealer products; cosmetic products for the body, such as semi-permanent tattoo products; or cosmetic products for the lips, such as lipsticks or lip glosses; cosmetic products for keratin fibers such as eyelashes or eyebrows, such as mascara or eyeliner.

[0375] The composition according to the present invention can be manufactured by known methods commonly used in the cosmetic field.

[0376] Throughout the specification (including the claims), the expression "comprising one / kinds" should be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one / kinds", unless otherwise specified.

[0377] The expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood to mean including the limiting values, unless otherwise specified.

[0378] The present invention will be illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the indicated amounts are expressed as weight percentages.

[0379] Example 1 (invention) and Comparative Examples 1a, 1b and 1c: Foundation

[0380] Prepare Example 1 according to the present invention, which contains an oily solution of the polyester of the present invention (diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (60%) (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride (40%)). The total amount of the non-volatile oil of caprylic / capric triglyceride in the composition is 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0381] Prepare Comparative Examples 1a, 1b and 1c outside the present invention.

[0382] Comparative Example 1a has the same composition with the same total amount of non-volatile oil, but does not contain polyester.

[0383] Comparative Example 1b has the same composition with the same total amount of non-volatile oil, but contains the following polyester instead of the polyester of the present invention: hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (Crodabond - Croda).

[0384] Comparative Example 1c has the same composition with the same total amount of non-volatile oil, but contains the following polyester instead of the polyester of the present invention: dilinoleyl dilinoleate (Lusplan - Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.).

[0385] [Table 1]

[0386]

[0387]

[0388] Mode of preparation

[0389] Mix the undecane / tridecane mixture, the polyester and the isododecane in a final beaker. Stir the mixture under a stator-rotor at 500 revolutions per minute for 5 minutes.

[0390] Spray the modified lithium montmorillonite under a rotor-stator at 1500 revolutions per minute and then stir the mixture for 15 minutes.

[0391] Spray the mixture of the pigment and the synthetic mica under a rotor-stator at 2000 rpm and then stir the mixture for 15 minutes.

[0392] Check the temperature of the bulk material. If the temperature rises, place the beaker in a cold water bath.

[0393] Finally add the alcohol under a rotor-stator at 1000 revolutions per minute at ambient temperature (below 30 °C). Stir the mixture for another 5 min and then package.

[0394] In vitro test for abrasion resistance and non-transferability

[0395] Evaluate the rub resistance and non-transferability of Example 1 of the present invention and Comparative Examples 1a, 1b and 1c according to the following protocol:

[0396] Produce a 25 μm film on an Erichsen comparator with a film stretching machine. Dry the film in an oven at 37 °C for 24 h. Place a 2 kg weight equipped with fabric statically on the comparator for 20 s and then remove it.

[0397] For the observations of the coloring of the fabric give information about transfer and the observations of the degradation of the deposits on the comparator give information about the abrasion resistance of the foundation.

[0398] Grade the coloring of the fabric and the degradation of the deposits on a scale of 0 to 5. 0 corresponds to "no trace" and no degradation of the deposits, and 5 corresponds to strong coloring of the fabric and corresponds to high degradation of the deposits.

[0399] The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0400] [Table 2]

[0401]

[0402] Based on the observations and grading, Example 1 of the present invention shows better abrasion resistance and non-transfer qualities than those of Comparative Examples 1a, 1b and 1c.

[0403] Example 2 (invention) and Comparative Examples 2a and 2b: Lipstick

[0404] Prepare Composition 2 according to the invention, which contains a mixture of 10% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 distearate dimer dilinoleate (6% by weight) and triglyceride caprylate / caprate (4% by weight).

[0405] Prepare Comparative Examples 2a and 2b outside the scope of the invention:

[0406] Comparative Example 2a has the same composition, except that the polyester is replaced with the same content of bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2.

[0407] Comparative Example 2b has the same composition, except that the polyester is replaced with the same content of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate.

[0408] These compositions are described in detail in the following table.

[0409] [Table 3]

[0410]

[0411]

[0412] Mode of preparation of the composition

[0413] Mix a portion of isododecane, alcohol, and polyester ( or ) in a beaker. Stir the mixture at 500 rev / min for 2 minutes under a Rayneri flocculator. Introduce ethyl cellulose as a fine mist under a deflocculator at 500 rev / min (into the vortex), and then stir the mixture for 10 minutes. Add the pigment, which has been pre-ground using a three-roll mill, together with the remaining isododecane.

[0414] Evaluation of the composition

[0415] a) Protocol for evaluating abrasion resistance

[0416] Apply each composition as a deposit with a thickness of 24.5 μm over a width of at least 6 cm onto an Erichsen contrast chart using a spreader, and dry it on a hot plate at 32 °C for 40 minutes.

[0417] Deposit three thin fabric (Kimberly Clark) strips, each 2 cm long, onto the deposit without overlapping them:

[0418] * The first strip is dry,

[0419] * The second strip was impregnated with distilled water (0.1 ml).

[0420] * The third strip was impregnated with olive oil (0.1 ml).

[0421] Place the film stretcher weighted with a 2 kg weight on all the thin strips and move the assembly over the film.

[0422] Observe the state of the deposit. Repeat the operation for each of the compositions prepared.

[0423] b) Grading of abrasion resistance

[0424] [Table 4]

[0425]

[0426] c) Results

[0427] [Table 5]

[0428]

[0429] The above results have confirmed the superiority of the composition according to the invention. The composition has in particular made it possible to obtain a uniform and strong deposit, the dry strength, water resistance and oil resistance of which have been significantly improved.

[0430] Example 3 (invention) and Comparative Examples 3a, 3b and 3c: Mascara

[0431] Prepare Example 3 according to the invention, which contains an oily solution of the polyester according to the invention at 5% by weight (diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (60%) (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride (40%)).

[0432] Prepare Comparative Examples 3a, 3b and 3c outside the invention.

[0433] Comparative Example 3a has the same composition but contains the following polyester in the same amount (5% by weight) as the starting material in place of the oily solution of the polyester according to the invention: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (Viscoplast - Biosynthis).

[0434] Comparative Example 3b has the same composition but contains the following polyester in the same amount (5% by weight) as the starting material in place of the oily solution of the polyester according to the invention: hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (Crodabond - Croda).

[0435] Comparative Example 3c has the same composition but contains the following polyester in the same amount (5% by weight) as the starting material, in place of the oily solution of the polyester of the present invention: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD- - Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.).

[0436] [Table 6]

[0437]

[0438] Preparation protocol

[0439] The starting materials were pre-weighed using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g). The components except ethanol were introduced into a temperature-controlled production vessel. The set temperature was fixed at 90 °C. After complete melting, the mixture was emulsified at 90 °C with vigorous stirring using a rotor-stator for 15 minutes. Then it was cooled to 30 °C with rotor-stator stirring. Ethanol was introduced at 30 °C with rotor-stator stirring.

[0440] Comparative test for abrasion resistance of mascara on eyelashes

[0441] To evaluate the abrasion resistance of the mascara, each sample was applied to a false eyelash test specimen and dried for 4 hours. Subsequently, the test specimen was sprayed with water and then deposited on a support. Five back-and-forth movements were made with a finger to simulate friction. The intensity of the black marks and the amount of black deposits lost were evaluated.

[0442] The following grades A, B, C, and D are given for evaluating flake formation due to crumbling:

[0443] A: No crumbling was observed;

[0444] B: Slight crumbling was observed;

[0445] C: Crumbling was observed;

[0446] D: Significant crumbling was observed.

[0447] The following grades A, B, C, and D are given for evaluating the tendency to form marks:

[0448] A: No marks were observed;

[0449] B: Slight marks were observed;

[0450] C: Marks were observed.

[0451] The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0452] [Table 6]

[0453]

[0454] Based on the observation results and classification, the quality of water resistance and abrasion resistance shown in Example 3 according to the present invention is superior to those of Comparative Examples 3a, 3b, and 3c.

Claims

1. A liquid composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, said liquid composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium in particular: A) at least one volatile solvent; B) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one fatty monocarboxylic acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the said components (i), (ii) and (iii) being reacted in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monocarboxylic acid; and C) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester being less than 8.0; and D) at least one colorant.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and subsequently inducing a completely random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol, the polyglycerol corresponding to formula (I) H[-O-Gly-]n-OH (I) where each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average value from 2 to 10.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and consists of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol which is at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and consists of the following, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture: at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and contains at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) At least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture, which contains, in each case, at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of the mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid, which contains, in each case, at least 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid, of hydrogenated C 36 dicarboxylic acid and 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C 54 tricarboxylic acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the volatile solvent is selected from: - monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms; - volatile oils; - mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein, the amount of the monohydric alcohol varies from 0% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 9, wherein, the one or more volatile oils are present in an amount less than 60.0% by weight, preferably less than 50.0% by weight, and even more preferably less than 40.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the weight ratio of the total amount of the volatile solvent to the amount of the polyester is greater than 1.

0.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the composition is anhydrous and contains a mixture of a volatile hydrocarbon oil and a monohydric alcohol; in particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from a mixture of isododecane, undecane, and tridecane, and mixtures thereof, and the monohydric alcohol is ethanol.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein, The composition is aqueous and comprises a mixture of water, a volatile hydrocarbon oil and a monohydric alcohol, in particular a mixture of water, C 9 -C 14 alkanes and ethanol.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the amount of the polyester as the active material varies from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The polyester is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid, and isostearic acid with a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the weight ratio of the total amount of the non-volatile oil to the amount of the polyester varies from 0.5 to 5.

18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the non-volatile oil is selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably from triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

19. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition comprising: A) at least one volatile solvent as defined in the claims; and B) at least one oily solution, the at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester, which is a reaction product of the following components (i), (ii), and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) At least one aliphatic monocarboxylic acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) being reacted in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid; and b) At least one non-volatile oil H 1 ; C) Optionally at least one non-volatile oil H 1 which is the same as or different from the said oil H 2 ; D) At least one colorant; The weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester is less than 8.

0.

20. The composition according to claim 19, wherein, Said oil H 1 and said oil H 2 are identical and indicate triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

21. The composition according to claim 19 or 20, wherein, The oily solution of the polyester contains the polyester at a concentration of from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more particularly from 50% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 19 to 21, wherein, The oily solution contains 40% by weight of triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid and 60% by weight of a polyester of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid and isostearic acid with a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

23. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition comprising an oily solution, the oily solution comprising: a) A polyester obtained by the reaction of: (i) Polyglycerol-3; and (ii) Hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid; and (iii) Isostearic acid, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) being reacted in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid; and b) Triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid, the mixture having the following as INCI name: diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dilinoleate (and) triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid.

24. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The colorant is selected from powdered colorants, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

25. The composition according to claim 24, wherein, The powdered colorant is selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

26. The composition according to claim 25, wherein, The powdered colorant is selected from coated or uncoated metal oxides, more particularly titanium dioxide or iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

27. The composition according to any one of claims 24 to 26, wherein, The powdered colorant is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, and more particularly from 3% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

28. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition further comprising at least one additive selected from the following: - Active agents such as vitamins such as vitamin A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - UV screening agents; - Fillers; - Film-forming agents; - Hydrophilic gelling agents; - Lipophilic gelling agents; - Perfumes; - Preservatives; - And mixtures thereof.

29. A method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, the method being characterized in that the method comprises at least applying to the keratin material a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

Images