Cosmetic and / or care compositions comprising a volatile solvent, a specific polyester, an

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising: A) at least one volatile solvent; b) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one acid dimer; and (iii) at least one fat monoacid containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reaction components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fat monoacid; and C) at least one alkyl cellulose, the alkyl group of which is C2-C3, preferably ethylcellulose; and D) at least one coloring agent. The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising the application of said composition.

Description

[0001] The subject matter of the present invention is: a cosmetic and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, the cosmetic and / or care composition comprising a volatile solvent, a specific polyester, an alkyl cellulose and a dyestuff; and also a method of cosmetic and / or care of human keratin materials using the same.

[0002] Many cosmetic makeup compositions containing dyestuffs such as foundations, correctors, lipsticks or lip glosses have been developed to improve the persistence and transfer resistance properties. Specifically, poor persistence can be reflected particularly by the poor persistence of the color (change or fading) of the deposit and / or the gloss. This thus forces the user to touch up more frequently than desired, which may be considered time-consuming.

[0003] Improved persistence of the composition is obtained by compositions that form a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents that evaporate upon contact with the skin or lips, leaving a layer comprising waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments and fillers. Film-forming polymers are synthetic polymers, generally silicone or acrylic polymers. Thus, mention may be made of the use of silicone resins such as trimethylsilyloxy silicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or resins comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylate / polytrimethylsilyloxy methacrylate copolymer - INCI name). Acrylic polymers such as acrylate / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer are also used. However, from the sensory perspective of consumers, these compositions are generally considered less comfortable or even uncomfortable.

[0004] Furthermore, in recent years, consumers have increasingly high demands on the composition of their cosmetic products and particularly seek products that use ingredients with a high content of natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, ingredients that minimize their environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.

[0005] However, there are still difficulties in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance of the products they are already used to.

[0006] In the cosmetic compositions of the prior art, the use of liquid or pasty polyesters has been proposed to obtain persistence properties.

[0007] Mention may in particular be made of JP 2002-128623, JP 2002-128628, JP 2002-128629 and EP 1 604634, which describe polyesters of diacid linoleic acid and dimer diols of dilinoleyl glycol, known by the INCI name of dilinoleyl dilinoleate, such as those sold under the trade name Lusplan by Nippon Fine Chemical and those sold.

[0008] In order to obtain hold properties in a cosmetic composition, it has also been proposed in FR 2931673 to use polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols; in particular, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols is a polyester of linoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, such as the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer).

[0009] In particular in FR 2 931 069, JP 2005-325079 and JP 2006-28129, it is also known practice to use polyesters of hydroxylated fatty acid triglycerides and saturated fatty diacids to provide hold for a cosmetic composition. As examples of polyesters, mention may in particular be made of those with the INCI name of hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, such as the product sold by Croda under the name Crodabond and also the hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate with the INCI name of Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, such as the product sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the name and Risocast sold.

[0010] However, it has been found that liquid cosmetic compositions comprising the previously mentioned polyesters are not entirely satisfactory and may lead to unsatisfactory film adhesion and cosmetic removal results. These polyesters may cause dewetting during application or a film (bleeding) that runs between the lips after the lips are pressed together. Finally, it can sometimes be observed that the film breaks into pieces during cosmetic removal.

[0011] There is still a need to find novel compositions based on suitable polyesters for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, which lead to the formation of a shiny deposit, have good deposit persistence and good transfer resistance properties without the drawbacks mentioned previously.

[0012] It has unexpectedly been found that these objectives can be achieved with a composition for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, which composition comprises, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0013] A) at least one volatile solvent;

[0014] B) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0015] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0016] (ii) at least one acid dimer; and

[0017] (iii) at least one fatty monocarboxylic acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer and 0.1 to 2.0 mol of fatty monocarboxylic acid;

[0018] C) at least one alkylcellulose, the alkyl of which is C2-C3, preferably ethylcellulose;

[0019] D) at least one colorant.

[0020] The subject of the present invention is also a method for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, which method comprises the application of the previously described composition.

[0021] The composition according to the invention has the advantages of being stable over time and easy to apply without dewetting during application or imprinting. Furthermore, the deposit obtained is precise, uniform, non-running and little sticky or not sticky at all. The deposit does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, in particular those around the lips.

[0022] The resulting deposit is shiny and has improved persistence. It is also comfortable without a feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0023] Definitions

[0024] Since the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, this particularly means that it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium which is suitable for the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied and also for the form in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0025] The term "physiologically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and / or lips, having a pleasant color, odor and feel, and not causing any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tightness) that would tend to prevent the consumer from using the composition.

[0026] The term "liquid composition" means any composition having at least one of the following characteristics:

[0027] i) It flows under its own weight at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa);

[0028] ii) It is not solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and its viscosity can be measured or its consistency characterized by its hardness;

[0029] iii) It does not have any specific shape such as can be obtained by hot casting in a mold or container of a given shape.

[0030] Thus, such compositions can be found in particular in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form.

[0031] The term "polyester" means any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of a polycarboxylic acid with an alcohol or polyol. Its macromolecular backbone contains repeating units of its ester functional groups. The ester functional group indicates a characteristic group formed by an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom (by a double bond) and an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, the ester functional group is called a carboxylate ester, the general formula of which is R-COO-R'.

[0032] The term "polyglycerol-3" means either triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol, and preferably the mixture is predominantly triglycerol.

[0033] Solutions for measuring viscosity:

[0034] Viscosity measurements are generally carried out at 25 °C using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2, No. 3 or No. 4 rotor, and the measurement is made after the rotor has rotated in the composition at a shear rate of 200 rpm for 10 minutes (after which the viscosity and the rotational speed of the rotor are observed to be stable).

[0035] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can have a viscosity between 0.1 and 25 Pa·s at 25 °C, preferably between 0.2 and 20 Pa·s.

[0036] Preferably, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention at 25 °C can be between 0.2 and 10 Pa·s. In particular, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention at 25 °C can be between 0.1 Pa·s (rotor 2) and 25 Pa·s (rotor 4), preferably between 0.2 Pa·s (rotor 2) and 20 Pa·s (rotor 4) and even better between 0.2 Pa·s (rotor 2) and 10 Pa·s (rotor 4).

[0037] Volatile solvent

[0038] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile solvent.

[0039] In the context of the present invention, the term "volatile solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa) and has a vapor pressure at 20 °C greater than 2.66 Pa, preferably between 2.66 and 40,000 Pa, especially up to 27,000 Pa.

[0040] Among the volatile solvents, mention may be made of:

[0041] - Monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0042] - Volatile oils selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof;

[0043] - Mixtures thereof.

[0044] According to a particular form of the invention, the volatile solvent is selected from:

[0045] - Monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0046] - Non-polar hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, or mixtures thereof;

[0047] - Mixtures thereof.

[0048] C2-C6 monohydric alcohols

[0049] The monohydric alcohol according to the invention preferably contains 2 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] The monohydric alcohol can be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, where Ra represents a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl group containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0051] Monohydric alcohols that may be mentioned include ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and more particularly ethanol.

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of the monohydric alcohol ranges from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably from 4% to 50% by weight and even more preferably from 6% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Volatile oils

[0054] The term "oil" means any lipophilic compound in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0055] The volatile oil is selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0056] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour upon contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at room temperature, and in particular have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa and more particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0057] The term "non-polar hydrocarbon oil" means an oil selected from hydrocarbons, i.e., an oil selected from compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0058] The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil containing at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0059] The non-polar hydrocarbon volatile oils that can be used in the context of the present invention are more particularly selected from straight-chain or branched-chain, preferably saturated oils containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Thus, the volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention can be selected from volatile straight-chain alkanes containing 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0061] As examples of straight-chain alkanes, especially C6-C14 alkanes, mention may be made of n-hexane (C6), n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. Particular mention may be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the index numbers Parafol and Parafol respectively, and also mixtures thereof. According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane can be used, and in particular a mixture sold by Biosynthis under the index number Vegelight Dodecane / tetradecane mixtures sold. According to yet another embodiment, mixtures of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes can also be used, with their INCI name: C9-12 alkanes, such as those sold by Biosynthis under the index number Vegelight Products sold. According to yet another embodiment, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained as in Examples 1 and 2 of the patent application WO 2008 / 155 059 from Cognis, and products sold by BASF under the trade name Cetiol Products sold.

[0062] Also mention may be made of the alkanes (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon) described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

[0063] The volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be selected from branched C8-C16 alkanes. In particular, mention may be made of C8-C16 isoparaffins (also known as isoparaffins) of petroleum origin, such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isocetane and, for example, oils sold under the trade name or Products sold.

[0064] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oils are selected from branched C8-C16 alkanes, and more particularly isododecane, mixtures of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes and mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) and mixtures thereof.

[0065] As examples of volatile silicone oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of volatile silicone oils containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, which silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Preferably, the volatile oils are selected from non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular from branched C8-C16 alkanes, and more particularly isododecane, mixtures of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes and mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.

[0067] The volatile oil is preferably present in the composition of the invention in an amount of less than 60% by weight and preferably less than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] In a preferred form according to the invention, the weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of monohydric alcohol is less than 3.5 and even more preferably less than 1.5.

[0069] Water

[0070] The composition according to the invention may optionally contain water.

[0071] The water suitable for the present invention may be demineralized water, floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water, and / or spring water.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition according to the invention contains water, its content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Polyester of polyglycerol / diacid dimer / monoacid

[0074] The composition according to the invention contains at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0075] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0076] (ii) at least one acid dimer; and

[0077] (iii) at least one fatty monocarboxylic acid containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid.

[0078] The polyester of the present invention and its synthesis are described in patent applications US2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US2021 / 0259930.

[0079] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of the polyester active material ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is the product of a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction.

[0081] The term "product of a substantially non-sequential reaction" means a product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0082] The term "completely non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii)" means that each of the total amounts of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the start of the reaction.

[0083] In one embodiment of the invention, each of the total amounts of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the start of the reaction, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is the product of a completely non-sequential reaction of the components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70%-100%, or 75%-100%, or 80%-100%, or 85%-100%, or 90%-100%, or 95%-100%, or 97%-100% of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) is added to the reaction vessel before the start of the reaction.

[0084] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all the reagents into the reaction vessel and then inducing the random addition of the acid dimer and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0085] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH, where Gly designates the glycerol residue after removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0086] Polyglycerol-3

[0087] Polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture of polyglycerol containing at least triglycerol according to the invention further comprises polyglycerol which can be any product of the oligomeric condensation of glycerol. They preferably correspond to the following formula (I):

[0088] H[-O-Gly-]n-OH, where each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; -n is a number from 2 to 10.

[0089] Typically, most Gly groups have the formula -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -, although etherified residues at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the scope of "Gly" and can therefore also be present.

[0090] Examples of polyglycerol-3 include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I), where n in particular has values of 2 to 7, more particularly 2 to 5 and especially 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols within these ranges.

[0091] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include mixtures of polyglycerols having the following distribution, where all weight percentages are based on the total content of polyglycerol-3 in the form of the mixture:

[0092] - Glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0% to 15% by weight;

[0093] - Diglycerol: 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 35% by weight, more preferably 20% to 32% by weight;

[0094] - Triglycerol: 10% to 65% by weight, preferably 15% to 60% by weight, more preferably 18% to 55% by weight;

[0095] - Tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 8% to 20% by weight;

[0096] - Pentaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0% to 5% by weight;

[0097] - Hexaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0% to 5% by weight;

[0098] - Heptaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0% to 3% by weight;

[0099] - Octaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0% to 3% by weight;

[0100] - Nonaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0% to 2% by weight;

[0101] - Decaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0% to 2% by weight.

[0102] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 comprises the following polyglycerol distribution:

[0103] Glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight;

[0104] Diglycerol: 15% to 40% by weight;

[0105] Triglycerol: 10% to 55% by weight;

[0106] Tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight;

[0107] Pentaerythritol and higher components: 0% to 15% by weight,

[0108] All weight percentages are based on the total content of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0109] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 consists of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol that is at least 40%, or at least 45%, or at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3.

[0110] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 consists of: at least 20%, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15%, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10%, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; where all weight percentages are based on the total content of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0111] Particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 contains at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0112] Such polyglycerol-3 compositions can be analyzed to determine their median or "average" polyglycerol number. The above examples of polyglycerol with narrow and wide distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3 because it is the substance with the integer closest to the average value and / or median.

[0113] Acid dimers

[0114] The acid dimer can be any dicarboxylic acid containing at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be straight-chain or branched, such as dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid, or trimethyladipic acid, and their acid anhydrides.

[0115] Fatty acid dimers are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by the catalytic dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0116] For the preparation and use of acid dimers and their physical and chemical characteristics, reference will be made to the publication “The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and Physical Properties, Reactions and Applications”, edited by E.C. Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0117] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain trifunctional and polyfunctional carboxylic acids to a lesser extent. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0118] Preferred acid dimers are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce unsaturated C18 fatty monocarboxylic acids. The starting materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybean, pumpkin, and walnut can be used. The target monocarboxylic acids used in this reaction are rich in oleic and linoleic acid forms, which are described in the fatty acid list included below. Dimerization mainly achieves dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored in the form of a mixture of reaction products, or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction mainly (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) produces acid dimers (C36 diacids), but also produces C54 acid trimers (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0119] In one case, a standard acid dimer (Pripol ) commercially available from Croda is used, which contains 72% by weight of acid dimers and 19% by weight of acid trimers.

[0120] In another case, a standard hydrogenated acid dimer (Radiacid ) from Oleon is used, which contains 87% by weight of acid dimers and 10% by weight of acid trimers. In both cases, the polymers as described are characterized by higher molecular weights, more hydrophobic properties, and higher viscosities than those that can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of acid trimers further improves the molecular weight and performance quality of these polymers.

[0121] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated acid dimer.

[0122] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated acid dimer comprising a hydrogenated dimer of C18 fatty acids, the hydrogenated acid dimer being obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18 fatty acids followed by hydrogenation.

[0123] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated acid dimer contains acid trimers in an amount ranging from about 5% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the hydrogenated acid dimer.

[0124] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated acid dimer predominantly (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but not more than 95% by weight, or even better not more than 90% by weight, or even still better not more than 85% by weight) contains hydrogenated acid dimers (C36 diacids), and also contains hydrogenated C54 acid trimers (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).

[0125] C8-C30 aliphatic monocarboxylic acids

[0126] C8-C30 fatty monocarboxylic acids can include natural or refined fatty acids such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, hydrolyzed sunflower oil, etc., but these contain both low and high MW chains. Useful fatty monocarboxylic acids can be straight-chain, branched-chain, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials that have an acidity provided by the carboxylic acid moiety.

[0127] Acids suitable for the present invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecanoic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecanoic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecanoic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecanoic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0128] A comparison of stearic acid and isostearic acid shows that the branching of isostearic acid results in an elevated melting point and a low viscosity at room temperature compared to the solid material of stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful for processing the starting materials and also enables the esters made with this acid to maintain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids typically contain a single methyl branch along the straight-chain carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isostearic acid is obtainable as a reaction by-product in the production of the above acid dimers.

[0129] Another way to obtain a liquid product consists in using unsaturated, straight-chain and branched fatty monocarboxylic acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), isolenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), trans-linoleic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), γ-linolenic acid (C18:3), octadecatetraenoic acid (C18:4), eicosenoic acid (C20:1), cetoleic acid (C20:1), dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (C20:3), eicosatrienoic acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), docosahexaenoic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the name means that the carbon chain has a length of X carbon atoms and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0130] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0131] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is the product of a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction of the following components:

[0132] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, which contains, in each case, at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0133] (ii) at least one hydrogenated acid dimer, which contains, in each case, at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; and

[0134] (iii) isostearic acid.

[0135] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reagents into a reaction vessel and then inducing a completely random addition of the acid dimer and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0136] In one embodiment, it is preferred that the total degree of esterification (total esterification) of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments is 24% to 74%, and the degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments initiated by the individual acid dimer (esterification with the acid dimer) is 20% to 40%. Even more importantly, the degree of esterification initiated by the end-capping unit (esterification with the monocarboxylic acid) is also defined in this specification, and it is important to maintain the esterification with the monocarboxylic acid at 4% to 40%.

[0137] Preferably, the total esterification is from 28% to 57%, wherein the esterification with acid dimer is from 20% to 30% and the esterification with monobasic acid is between 8% and 27%.

[0138] Even more preferably, the total esterification is from 33% to 48%, wherein the esterification with acid dimer is from 20% to 28% and the esterification with monobasic acid is between 13% and 20%.

[0139] Even more preferably, the total esterification is from 24% to 74%, wherein the esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer is from 20% to 40% and the esterification with monobasic acid is between 4% and 40%.

[0140] Even more preferably, the total esterification is from 28% to 57%, wherein the esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer is from 20% to 30% and the esterification with monobasic acid is between 8% and 27%.

[0141] Even still more preferably, the total esterification is about 40%, wherein the esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer is about 20%, and the esterification with monobasic acid is about 20%.

[0142] Even still more preferably, the total esterification is also most preferably about 40%, wherein the esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer is about 27%, and the esterification with monobasic acid is about 13%.

[0143] In one embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer, and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of fatty acid.

[0144] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of acid dimer, and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0145] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of acid dimer, and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0146] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of isostearic acid.

[0147] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0148] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0149] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of isostearic acid.

[0150] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0151] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0152] In another embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mol of hydrogenated C36 acid dimer, and 0.67 mol of isostearic acid.

[0153] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the reaction components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol of hydrogenated C36 acid dimer, and 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0154] By adjusting the terminal molar ratio of the fatty acids and by balancing the amounts of polyglycerol-3 and acid dimer, the degree of elongation and termination of the acid dimer-polyglycerol can also be controlled, such that, for example, much higher viscosities are produced by crosslinking with acid trimers.

[0155] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be greater than 50,000 mPa·s and less than 5,000,000 mPa·s at 25 °C.

[0156] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >75,000 mPa·s and <2,500,000 mPa·s at 25 °C.

[0157] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >100,000 mPa·s and <2,000,000 mPa·s at 25 °C.

[0158] In the most preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >1,000,000 mPa·s and <2,000,000 mPa·s at 25 °C.

[0159] Using from Anton Paar Inc The rheometer measures viscosity. Using rough or smooth double plates with a diameter of 50 mm, they are covered with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans are performed. The polyesters of the present invention have Newtonian behavior and thus have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers of this specification exhibit a viscosity that decreases with decreasing temperature. Therefore, the viscosity measurements are reported at precisely controlled temperatures and typically in the form of a shear rate of 1. These values are reported in mPa.s.

[0160] The polyesters of the present invention are characterized by a weight average molecular mass of >2500 Da and <1000 000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0161] The GPC columns used for these tests consist of: Phenolgel, 300×4.6 mm; using a continuous tetrahydrofuran (THF) phase and injecting it at 0.35 ml / min, the column oven is maintained at 40 °C; 50 μl injection and Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used are strictly linear polystyrenes intended to be monodisperse. Narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards are prepared as the mobile phase and have maximum molecular weights of 1 290 000 Da, 560 000 Da, 65 500 Da, 28 500 Da, 10 100 Da, 1680 Da, 580 Da, and 208 Da. Using standard methods, the weight average molecular mass and number average molecular mass are automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0162] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters described have a weight average molecular weight of >4000 Da and <250 000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In the most preferred embodiment, the polymers described have a weight average molecular weight of >5000 Da and <150 000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0163] In yet another embodiment, the polyesters of the present invention have a combination of a weight average molecular mass of >5000 Da and <150 000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity of >100 000 mPa.s and <2 000 000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0164] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the present invention are the product of a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction of the following components:

[0165] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, which contains, in each case, at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0166] (ii) at least one hydrogenated acid dimer, which contains at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid in each case relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; and

[0167] (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer has a combination of a weight-average molecular mass of >5000 Da and <15 000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a pure polymer viscosity of >100000 mPa·s and <2 000 000 mPa·s at 25 °C; and wherein the copolymer is further characterized in that the total esterification is about 40%, the esterification with the hydrogenated acid dimer is about 27% and the esterification with the monobasic acid is about 13%.

[0168] In practice, in view of the fact that the original composition contains a series of polyglycerol units and a series of acid dimer and trimer contents, the actual (and non-theoretical) hydroxyl moieties and carboxylic acid moieties (as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography) can be used to adjust the above values. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structures of polyglycerol-3 and C36 acid dimers. Therefore, the actual ranges can be slightly different from the values indicated above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

[0169] More practically, the degree of polymerization is defined by the final acid value. Based on the distribution of the polyglycerol, monobasic acid and polybasic acid fractions present, the initial acid value can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined from the original composition used.

[0170] For example, the initial total acid value (“AV”, which is usually defined as mg of KOH / g of the total reagent) is 135 AV. This includes, for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol of hydrogenated C36 acid dimer and 1 mol of isostearic acid, 68 AV for the acid dimer and 67 AV for the isostearic acid. All of the above preferred ratio embodiments have corresponding initial AVs that can be calculated. When the AV units decrease during the polymerization reaction, this ratio gives the percentage of the reaction conversion from the total initial reactive acid fraction to the final residual acid fraction.

[0171] Therefore, the degree of completion of the reaction is defined by (1 - final AV) / initial AV.

[0172] In one embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <25 mg of KOH / g of the polymer.

[0173] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <10 mg of KOH / g of the polymer.

[0174] In the most preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <5 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0175] Since the degree of completion of the reaction is defined by the equation 1 - final AV / initial AV, the degree of completion of the reaction of such a mixture used to obtain the final polymer is >80%.

[0176] In a preferred embodiment, the degree of completion of the reaction of such a mixture used to obtain the final polymer is >90%.

[0177] In the most preferred embodiment, the degree of completion of the reaction of such a mixture used to obtain the final polymer is >95%.

[0178] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is the reaction product of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated C36 acid dimer, and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US2021 / 0259945.

[0179] According to a particularly preferred form of the present invention, the composition comprises an oily solution, which comprises:

[0180] a) a polyester obtained by the reaction of:

[0181] (i) polyglycerol-3; and

[0182] (ii) hydrogenated C36 acid dimer; and

[0183] (iii) isostearic acid, wherein the reaction components (i), (ii), and (iii) are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer, and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid; and

[0184] b) caprylic / capric triglyceride;

[0185] The said mixture has the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0186] Such an oily solution is sold by Nouryon under the name SolAmaze and contains 60% by weight of the polyester as the active material and 40% by weight of the triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid, relative to the total weight of the oily solution. It is described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oil mixture) of the document US 2021 / 0259945.

[0187] Alkyl cellulose

[0188] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one alkyl cellulose.

[0189] Ethyl cellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising chains formed from β - anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of which are capable of reacting according to the following reaction:

[0190] RONa + R’Cl → ROR’ + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose group and R’ represents ethyl.

[0191] For each anhydroglucose unit, total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups will result in a degree of substitution of 3, in other words, an alkoxy content of 54.88%.

[0192] The ethyl cellulose polymer for use in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a polymer having a degree of substitution such that each anhydroglucose unit has from 2.5 to 2.6 ethoxy groups, in other words an ethoxy content ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0193] The ethyl cellulose for use in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in powder form.

[0194] Ethyl cellulose is sold, for example, by Dow Chemicals under the trade names Ethocel Standard (in particular including Ethocel Standard 7FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100FP Premium). Other commercially available products, such as those sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade names Aqualon EC type K, type N and type T, preferably type N (such as N7, N100) are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0195] Advantageously, the content of the alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose, ranges from 1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] Non - volatile oil

[0197] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil or non - volatile silicone oil.

[0198] The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil mainly containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic acid functional groups. Thus, these oils are different from silicone oils.

[0199] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si - O group.

[0200] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non - volatile oil, and the weight ratio of the total amount of the non - volatile oil to the amount of polyester is preferably less than 7.

[0201] According to a first variant, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non - volatile hydrocarbon - based oil which is liquid at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa).

[0202] The term "non - volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure is non - zero and less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by a permeation method via isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (standard OCDE 104).

[0203] Polar and non-polar hydrocarbon base oils

[0204] Among the non - volatile hydrocarbon - based oils, polar hydrocarbon - based oils different from polyester B), or non - polar hydrocarbon - based oils can be suitably used.

[0205] Polar hydrocarbon base oils

[0206] The term "polar hydrocarbon - based oil" means that the oil contains at least one oxygen atom in addition to carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms. Thus, the hydrocarbon - based oil contains at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether and / or carboxylic acid functional group.

[0207] Thus, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one non - volatile polar hydrocarbon - based oil, which is more particularly selected from:

[0208] * saturated or unsaturated, straight - chain or branched C 10 - C 26 fatty alcohols, preferably monohydric alcohols, which are preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms. More particularly, the fatty alcohol contains from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0209] * ethers of the formula ROR' or carbonates of the formula RO(CO)OR', in which the groups R and R' can be the same or different and represent saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon - based groups containing no more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably C 3 - C 16 groups;

[0210] * hydroxylated or non - hydroxylated vegetable oils;

[0211] *Optionally hydroxylated ester oils, containing 1 to 4 ester functional groups, where at least one ester functional group is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, containing at least 8 carbon atoms;

[0212] *Liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of mono-unsaturated or poly-unsaturated acid dimers; the fatty acid contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0213] *And mixtures thereof.

[0214] Preferably, the second oil is selected from:

[0215] - Lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyl decanol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol;

[0216] - Dioctyl ether;

[0217] - Dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dioctyl carbonate and C 14 - C 15 Dialkyl esters;

[0218] - Castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxioil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea butter, sweet almond oil, macadamia nut oil, almond oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof;

[0219] - 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoates, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol didecanoate, triglyceride (2-decyltetradecanoic acid), triglyceride (capric acid) / triglyceride (caprylic acid), C 18-36Triglycerides, triheptanoin, trioctanoin, tri(2-decyltetradecanoin), trisoisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetranonanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate); isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate;

[0220] - Polyesters with the following INCI names: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propylene glycol copolymer, dilinoleoyl dilinoleate;

[0221] - And their mixtures.

[0222] Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon base oils

[0223] Preferably, the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be selected from straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as:

[0224] - Liquid paraffin,

[0225] - Squalane, especially squalane of vegetable origin,

[0226] - Isoeicosane,

[0227] - Saturated straight-chain hydrocarbons, more particularly C 15 - C 28 Mixtures of saturated straight-chain hydrocarbons, such as mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, such as the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L15 and L19 sold by SEPPIC,

[0228] - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, such as the products of the Indopol series sold by Ineos Oligomers,

[0229] - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as the Series of non-volatile compounds sold by Nippon Oil&Fats,

[0230] - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, such as the non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo series sold by Ineos and Dekanex sold by IMCD,

[0231] - And their mixtures.

[0232] Non-volatile silicone oils

[0233] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil (optionally comprising at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment), or comprise at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil.

[0234] The term "phenylated" indicates that the oil contains at least one phenyl group in its structure.

[0235] The term "polydimethylsiloxane segment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups and which is not at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula:

[0236] -(Si(CH 3 ) 2 -O)-.

[0237] Preferably, the silicone does not contain C 2 -C 3 alkyleneoxy or glycerolated groups.

[0238] As non-volatile phenylated oils comprising at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, mention may be made of oils having the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, tetramethyltetraphenyl trisiloxane and also mixtures thereof, preferably trimethylsiloxysilicate phenyl trimethicone. Diphenyl dimethicone is in particular sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d and KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxysilicate phenyl trimethicone is sold for example by Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.

[0239] Among non-volatile phenyl silicone oils that do not contain a polydimethylsiloxane segment, mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: phenyl trimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, either alone or as a mixture. As non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of those sold by Wacker under the Belsil DM series, by Dow Corning under the Xiameter PMX 200 silicone fluid series and by Shin-Etsu under the KF-96A series.

[0240] Representative examples of non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxane and alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes. It should be noted that the term "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are selected from polydimethylsiloxane and alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least one C 2 -C 24 alkyl group, and also mixtures thereof. Thus, these oils can be selected from polydimethylsiloxane, cetyl polydimethylsiloxane, and stearyl polydimethylsiloxane, either alone or as a mixture. As non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils suitable for use, mention may be made of those sold by Wacker under the Belsil DM series, by Dow Corning under the Xiameter PMX 200 silicone fluid series, and by Shin-Etsu under the KF-96A series. Alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes can be sold, for example, under the following trade names: Abil Wax 9800 and Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid, Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax from Dow Corning; and mixtures thereof.

[0241] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is selected from polar hydrocarbon-based oils other than polyester B), particularly from ester oils. According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil selected from fatty alcohols, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, optionally hydroxylated ester oils, which contain 1 to 4 ester functional groups, at least one of the ester functional groups being linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and containing at least 8 carbon atoms. According to a preferred form, the non-volatile oil is selected from triglycerides of fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid (INCI name: triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid).

[0242] If the composition comprises any non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil, its content ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, particularly 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] Colorant

[0244] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one colorant.

[0245] According to a particular form of the invention, the colorant can be selected from powdered colorants, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0246] Powdery dyes

[0247] These powdered colorants may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof.

[0248] The term "pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous medium and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored and are mineral and / or organic.

[0249] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are selected from mineral pigments.

[0250] The term "mineral pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders (such as aluminum powder and copper powder). The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta 2 O 5 、Ti 3 O 5 、Ti 2 O 3 、TiO, in the form of a mixture with TiO 2 of ZrO 2 、ZrO 2 、Nb 2 O 5 、CeO 2 、ZnS.

[0251] The size of the pigments that can be used in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0252] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigment has a certain size that is characterized in that D

[50] is greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0253] These sizes are measured using a commercial MasterSizer from Malvern The particle size analyzer measures by static light scattering, which enables determination of the particle size distribution of all these particles within a wide range (which can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm). The data is processed based on the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most applicable to size distributions in the range from sub-micron to multi-micronic; it enables determination of the "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the following publication: Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0254] D

[50] represents the maximum size at which 50% is presented by volume of the particles.

[0255] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, which is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0256] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from the following: metal soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0257] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated according to the invention with an N-acyl amino acid or its salt, which can comprise an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoacyl.

[0258] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated with an N-acyl amino acid derivative, which can in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or its salt, and more particularly stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. As an example of a pigment treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments (sold by Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name are mentioned).

[0259] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated according to the invention with isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate. As an example of a pigment treated with isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate (ITT), titanium dioxide pigments and those sold by Kobo under the trade name (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and (Iron Oxide CI 77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) sold in black, red and yellow.

[0260] The pigments which can be used according to the invention may also be organic pigments.

[0261] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopaedia. The organic pigment may be chosen in particular from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, peronone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0262] The organic pigments may be selected, for example, from the following: carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 red pigments included in the color index, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0263] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may especially consist of particles comprising a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0264] The pigment can also be a lake. The term "lake" means an insoluble dye adsorbed onto insoluble particles, and the resulting assembly remains insoluble during use.

[0265] Inorganic substrates on which the dye is adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.

[0266] Among the organic dyes, carmine can be mentioned. Products known under the following names can also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0267] An example of a lake that can be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0268] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdery colorant of the mineral pigment type, which is particularly selected from metal oxides, and more particularly from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide or iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

[0269] Mother-of-pearl can be selected from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or coated with bismuth oxychloride; colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxide, in particular titanium mica with iron blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with organic pigments of the above type; and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0270] Preferably, the powdery colorant is present in the composition in a content ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0271] Lipid-soluble or water-soluble dyes

[0272] The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant, the proportion of which is preferably at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0273] For obvious reasons, this quantity is liable to vary significantly with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color strength provided by the stain under consideration, and its adjustment undoubtedly falls within the capabilities of a person skilled in the art.

[0274] Additional stains suitable for the present invention may be fat-soluble.

[0275] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble stain" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound that is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent miscible with fatty substances and is capable of imparting color.

[0276] As fat-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenoids (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0277] Additional stains suitable for the present invention may be water-soluble.

[0278] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble stain" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or in a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color.

[0279] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel color (caramel) and riboflavin.

[0280] If the composition contains any water-soluble or fat-soluble dye, it is preferably present in an amount of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01% to 2% by weight and still better in the range of 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] Cosmetic additives

[0282] The composition according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in skin care and / or cosmetic products, such as active agents such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3; adenosine; hyaluronic acid and its salts; UV screening agents; fillers; waxes; pasty compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents other than alkyl celluloses (in particular ethyl cellulose); lipophilic gelling agents; perfumes; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0283] For a person skilled in the art, it is routine practice to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the composition according to the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties are not affected thereby.

[0284] Fillers

[0285] Thus, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one filler, which in particular makes it possible to confer additional properties on these compositions in terms of improved mattness, coverage, hold and / or stability.

[0286] The term "filler" is to be understood to mean any shape of colorless or white solid particles provided in insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles give the composition body or rigidity and / or give the cosmetic softness and uniformity.

[0287] These fillers may be mineral or organic.

[0288] Preferably, they may be selected from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.

[0289] The term "natural compound" means a compound obtained directly from the land or soil, or from plants or animals by (where appropriate) one or more physical methods, such as milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0290] The term "compound of natural origin" means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments that produce changes that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound that mainly comprises natural ingredients that may or may not have undergone transformations. As non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments that produce changes that do not affect the essential qualities of the natural compound, mention may be made of those allowed by controlling bodies such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in handbooks recognized in the field such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.

[0291] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may be in lamellar, spherical or spheroidal form, in the form of fibers, or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0292] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with an amino acid or any other substance that promotes the dispersibility and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0293] Mineral fillers

[0294] Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, natural or synthetic mica such as synthetic fluorphlogopite, silica, hydrophobic silica aerogels, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or composites of silica and titanium dioxide (such as the PTFE sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. series).

[0295] Organic fillers

[0296] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as those produced by Daito Seisakusho Co., Ltd. under the trade name Products sold in series.

[0297] Preferably, the filler is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0298] wax

[0299] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

[0300] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature, has a reversible solid / liquid change, and has a melting point which can be greater than or equal to 30 °C, up to 120 °C.

[0301] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC), as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) (for example, a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name DSC Q2000) with TA Universal analysis software.

[0302] The measurement solutions are as follows:

[0303] A 5 mg wax sample placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase in the range from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase in the range from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute.

[0304] During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the solid fat substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed in the melting curve, which represents the change in the difference in the absorbed energy as a function of temperature.

[0305] The melting enthalpy (ΔHf) of the wax can also be measured, which corresponds to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This melting enthalpy of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. The heat of fusion is expressed in J / g.

[0306] The wax can be a silicone wax and is preferably a hydrocarbon wax. The wax is also of plant, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0307] In particular, the wax has a melting point preferably greater than or equal to 35 °C and even better greater than or equal to 40 °C.

[0308] Non-polar waxes:

[0309] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax consisting only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and containing no heteroatoms (such as N, O, Si, P, etc.).

[0310] As examples of non-polar waxes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polymethylene wax, polyethylene wax and microwax, in particular polyethylene wax.

[0311] Polar waxes

[0312] Polar waxes may in particular be hydrocarbon waxes or silicone waxes.

[0313] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and contains at least one heteroatom more particularly selected from oxygen, optionally nitrogen or a mixture thereof. Thus, polar hydrocarbon waxes may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0314] The term "silicone wax" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular containing Si-O groups.

[0315] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0316] Waxes selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes are preferably used as polar hydrocarbon waxes.

[0317] According to the present invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax containing at least one ester functional group. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0318] According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0319] As ester waxes, the following may be used in particular, either alone or as a mixture:

[0320] i) waxes of the formula R 1 COOR 2 wherein R 1 and R 2 represent straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic aliphatic chains having a range of 6 to 50, in particular 10 to 50, atoms, which may contain heteroatoms (such as O or N), and whose melting point ranges more particularly from 30 °C to 120 °C. In particular, as ester waxes, (hydroxystearoxy)stearic acid C 20 -C 40 alkyl esters (the alkyl group containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms), or stearic acid C 20 -C40 Alkyl esters. Such waxes are especially sold by Koster Keunen under the name Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 Kester Wax K80 or Kester Wax K82H. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl octanoate and mixtures thereof can also be used;

[0321] ii) Bis(1,1,1 - trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate;

[0322] iii) Diester waxes of dicarboxylic acids having the general formula

[0323] R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ) where R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and represent C 4 -C 30 alkyl groups, and R 4 represents a straight-chain or branched C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more degrees of unsaturation. Preferably, the C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group is straight-chain and unsaturated;

[0324] iv) Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils especially containing straight-chain or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the Phytowax Castor series (e.g., Phytowax Castor ), or also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those of the Phytowax Olive series sold by Sophim (e.g., Phytowax Olive 18L57). Such waxes are especially described in patent application FR 2792190;

[0325] v) Corresponding to saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 16 -C 30Waxes that are partial or total esters of carboxylic acids with glycerol, preferably total esters. The term "total ester" means that all the hydroxyl functional groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples that may be mentioned include, individually or as a mixture, trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate). Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of the triester of glycerol and 12 - hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties,

[0326] v) Mention may also be made of waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, lignite wax, orange wax, laurel wax or sunflower wax, especially refined sunflower wax;

[0327] vii) Mention may also be made of natural or synthetic polyalkylated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes of animal or plant origin; the number of (C 2 -C 4 ) oxyalkylene units can range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units can range from 1 to 20. Examples that may be mentioned include polyoxyethylated beeswax, such as PEG - 6 beeswax or PEG - 8 beeswax; polyoxyethylated carnauba wax, such as PEG - 12 carnauba wax; polyoxyethylated or polyoxypropylated and hydrogenated or non - hydrogenated lanolin wax, such as PEG - 30 lanolin or PEG - 75 lanolin; PPG - 5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswax, especially polyglycerol - 3 beeswax, acacia / jojoba / sunflower seed wax / polyglycerol - 3 ester mixture, polyglycerolated plant waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof (acacia / jojoba / sunflower seed wax polyglycerol - 3 ester),

[0328] According to another embodiment, the polar wax can be an alcohol wax. As alcohol waxes, mention may be made of mixtures of saturated straight - chain C 30 -C 50 alcohols, such as the wax Performacol 550 alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol or mixtures thereof from New Phase Technologies.

[0329] Silicone waxes

[0330] As silicone waxes, examples that may be mentioned include mixtures comprising compounds of the C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropyl sesquioxane (INCI name) type, such as the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 resin wax sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Mixtures comprising compounds of the C30-45 alkylpolymethylsiloxane (INCI name) type may also be mentioned, such as the product Dow AMS-C30 cosmetic wax. Silicified beeswax may also be mentioned.

[0331] Preferably, if the composition comprises any wax, it is selected from hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, the wax is selected from non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; and also mixtures thereof; and is preferably selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, either alone or as a mixture.

[0332] If the composition comprises any wax, its content advantageously ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, particularly 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0333] Paste compounds

[0334] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound that is pasty at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0335] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a lipophilic compound having a reversible solid / liquid change, in particular having an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state and comprising a liquid part and a solid part at room temperature.

[0336] In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty compound may be lower than room temperature. The liquid part of the pasty compound measured at room temperature may account for 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This part that is liquid at room temperature preferably accounts for between 15% and 85% by weight, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

[0337] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as previously described in detail for waxes.

[0338] However, in the case of pasty compounds, the measurement protocol is as follows:

[0339] A 5 mg sample of the pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute.

[0340] The melting point of the pasty fat substance is the temperature value corresponding to the peak top of the curve showing the change of the difference in the absorbed energy with temperature change.

[0341] It should be noted that the liquid part by weight of the pasty fat substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fat substance.

[0342] The heat of fusion of the pasty fat substance is the amount of heat consumed by the substance to change from the solid state to the liquid state. When the entire mass of the pasty fat substance is in the form of crystalline solid, it is said to be in the solid state. When the entire mass of the pasty fat substance is in the form of liquid, it is said to be in the liquid state.

[0343] The heat of fusion of the pasty fat substance is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat substance from the solid state to the liquid state. The heat of fusion is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fat substance is equal to the area under the curve of the obtained thermogram.

[0344] The pasty compound can particularly be selected from synthetic pasty compounds and fat substances of plant origin.

[0345] The pasty compound can particularly be selected from:

[0346] - Lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, or oxypropylated lanolin;

[0347] - Petrolatum (also known as petrolatum);

[0348] - Pentaerythritol and C 2 - C 4 Ethers of polyalkylene glycols, such as compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether, PPG-5 pentaerythritol ether, and mixtures thereof. For example, the mixture sold by Vevy under the name Lanolide can be mentioned.

[0349] - Composed of one or more C 2 - C 100 And preferably C 2 - C 50 Liposoluble polyethers produced by polyetherification between glycols. Among the liposoluble polyethers, ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy with long-chain C 6 - C 30Copolymers of alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxide in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. Among this family, mention will be made in particular of products such as those sold by Akzo Nobel under the trade name Elfacos ST9 and having the INCI name PEG-45 / dodecadiol copolymer,

[0350] - esters resulting from the condensation of preferably saturated straight-chain or branched C 6 - C 10 dicarboxylic acids with diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated straight-chain or branched C 6 - C 20 monocarboxylic acids, in particular diesters obtained by the condensation of adipic acid with diglycerol and a mixture of C 6 - C 20 fatty acids (such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid), in particular the diester mixture sold by Cremer Oleo under the index number 649 (INCI name: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2),

[0351] - triglycerides of optionally hydrogenated (fully or partially), saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated fatty acids, preferably C 12 - C 18 triglycerides of fatty acids; for example, the saturated C sold by Cremer Oleo under the name Softisan 12 - C 18 glycerides of fatty acids (INCI name: hydrogenated coconut glycerides),

[0352] - diesters of diol dimers, or esters of polyols and diacid dimers, for example:

[0353] * esters of the dimer of dilinoleyl alcohol and the dimer of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, such as the ester sold by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name Plandool G (INCI name: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosterol dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate);

[0354] * esters of dilinoleic acid with a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, such as the esters sold by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names Plandool H or Plandool S (INCI name: phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate);

[0355] - butters of vegetable origin, such as mango butter (e.g. the product sold under the name Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn), shea butter, in particular the product with the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (e.g. the product sold under the reference No. ), cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; and also orange wax, for example the product sold by Costa under the reference Orange Peel Wax,

[0356] - fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils (e.g. a mixture of hydrogenated soybean oil, coconut kernel oil, palm oil and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the one sold by Aarhuskarlshamn under the index mixture (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil)), marketed by Desert Whale under the Commercial Reference No. Trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil (e.g. the compound sold by Soliance under the reference number Beurrolive), manufactured or sold,

[0357] hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Advanced Alcohol Industries, Ltd., and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil,

[0358] - and mixtures thereof.

[0359] If the composition comprises at least one pasty compound, its content ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0360] Lipophilic gelling agents

[0361] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0362] As lipophilic gelling agents, examples that may be mentioned include lipophilic clays.

[0363] The term "lipophilic clay" refers to any clay that is fat-soluble or fat-dispersible in the oily phase of a composition.

[0364] Clays denote materials based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates having a layered structure.

[0365] Clays can be natural or synthetic, and they are rendered lipophilic by treatment with alkylammonium salts such as C10 to C22 ammonium chlorides, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0366] They can be selected from bentonites (in particular bentonite, hectorite and montmorillonite), beidellite, steatite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, palygorskite, vermiculite and zeolites.

[0367] They are preferably selected from hectorite and bentonite.

[0368] For example, lipophilic clays selected from the following can be used: hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, which are particularly modified with C10 to C22 quaternary ammonium chlorides, such as:

[0369] - bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as the commercial products sold under the names Claytone Garamite LG-M, MP 250 VZ and VZ-V XR by BYK Additives Inc; or the commercial products sold under the names B3, B4, B7, B8, ED, GM, S4 and SD by Bentec S.P.A;

[0370] - bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the following commercial products: Dub Velvet from Stéarinerie Dubois Fils Miglyol Gel from Cremer Oleo from BYK Additives CGT 6030, DBA 6060, FTN, FTN 1564, IPM, LAN, LAN 1563;

[0371] - Lithium montmorillonite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Lithium magnesium aluminosilicate, distearyldimonium Hectorite), such as the product sold by Elementis Specialties under the name 38VCG Rheological Additive;

[0372] - Lithium montmorillonite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as the products sold by Elementis Specialties under the names Gel DOA V, Gel EUG V, Gel IHD V, Gel ISD V, Gel MIOV, Gel PTM V, SS-71V, VS-5PC V or VS-5; commercial products sold by Créations Couleurs under the names Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS or Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID; commercial products sold by Next Step Laboratories Stop under the names NS Gel NS Gel or NS MGel and sold.

[0373] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and fatty acids (especially C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18 fatty acids), or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and C12-C18 and especially C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0374] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition in a concentration preferably in the range of from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0375] Throughout the specification (including the claims), the expression "comprising one / kind" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one / kind", unless otherwise stated.

[0376] Unless otherwise specified, the expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." shall be understood to mean including the limit values.

[0377] In addition, the sum of the amounts of the components of the composition accounts for 100% by weight of the composition.

[0378] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0379] Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.

[0380] The following examples are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0381] Examples

[0382] Prepare Composition 1 according to the present invention, which contains a mixture of 10% by weight of polyester (diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate) (6% by weight) and triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid (4% by weight).

[0383] Prepare Comparative Examples 1a and 1b outside the present invention:

[0384] Comparative Example 1a has the same composition, except that bis-diglyceridyl polyacyl adipate-2 is used instead of the polyester in the same content.

[0385] Comparative Example 1b has the same composition, except that hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate is used instead of the polyester in the same content.

[0386] These compositions are detailed in the following table.

[0387] [Table 1]

[0388]

[0389] Methods for preparing the compositions :

[0390] Mix a portion of isododecane, alcohol, and polyester (SolAmaze, Softisan, or Risocast) in a beaker. Stir the mixture with a Rayneri flocculator at 500 rpm for 2 minutes.

[0391] While stirring with an anti-flocculator at 500 rpm, introduce ethyl cellulose as a fine mist (into the vortex), and then stir the mixture for 10 minutes.

[0392] Add the pigment pre-ground using a three-roll mill together with the remaining isododecane.

[0393] Evaluation of the compositions:

[0394] Protocol for evaluating persistence

[0395] Each composition is applied as a deposit with a thickness of 24.5 μm within a width of at least 6 cm onto an Erichsen comparison chart using a spreader and dried on a hot plate at 32 °C for 40 minutes.

[0396] Three thin fabric strips (Kimberly Clark) of 2 cm are placed on the deposit without overlapping them:

[0397] * The first strip is dry,

[0398] * The second strip is impregnated with distilled water (0.1 ml),

[0399] * The third strip is impregnated with olive oil (0.1 ml).

[0400] A film spreader weighted with a 2 kg weight is placed on all the thin strips and the assembly is moved on the film.

[0401] Observe the state of the deposit.

[0402] For each of the compositions prepared, this operation is repeated.

[0403] Grading of persistence

[0404] [Table 2]

[0405]

[0406] Results:

[0407] [Table 3]

[0408]

[0409]

[0410] The above results confirm the superiority of the compositions according to the invention. In particular, the compositions make it possible to obtain a uniform and strong deposit, the dry, water and oil resistance of which is significantly improved.

Claims

1. A composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin and / or lips, said composition comprising, in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one volatile solvent; B) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one acid dimer; and (iii) at least one fatty monocarboxylic acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty monocarboxylic acid; and C) at least one alkyl cellulose, the alkyl group of which is C2-C3, preferably ethyl cellulose; D) at least one coloring agent.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the volatile solvent is selected from monohydric alcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, volatile oils, preferably non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a mixture of a volatile hydrocarbon oil and a monohydric alcohol; in particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from a mixture of isododecane, undecane and tridecane, and mixtures thereof; and the monohydric alcohol is ethanol.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the amount of the monohydric alcohol ranges from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably from 4% to 50% by weight and even more preferably from 6% to 40% by weight.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the amount of the volatile oil is less than 60% by weight and preferably less than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the amount of the volatile oil to the amount of the monohydric alcohol is less than 3.5 and even more preferably less than 1.

5.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is the product of a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reagents into a reaction vessel and then inducing a completely random addition of the acid dimer and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 consists of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol which is at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that Said polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture consists of: at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight, of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, of tetraglycerol; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total content of said polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture contains at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of said polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said polyester is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated C36 acid dimer and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of the polyester active material ranges from 1% to 50% by weight and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said polyester is in the form of an oily solution, and the oily solution contains a) a polyester obtained by the reaction of (i) polyglycerol-3; and (ii) Hydrogenated C 36 acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid, and the reaction components (i), (ii) and (iii) are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid; and b) caprylic / capric triglyceride, and the mixture more particularly has the following INCI name: diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dilinoleate (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride.

15. The composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the oily solution contains the polyester at a concentration of 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably 30% to 90% by weight and more particularly 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that The oily solution contains 40% by weight of triglyceride caprylate / caprate and 60% by weight of a polyester of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid with a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1. 36 ​ 17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose, ranges from 1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition optionally contains at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably polar, different from said polyester B), and particularly selected from ester oils.

19. The composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of the non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon oil, ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 18 or 19, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester is less than 7.

21. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is a liquid.

22. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains less than 5% by weight of water, more particularly less than 2% by weight of water, and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colorant is selected from powder colorants, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

24. The composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the powder colorant is selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacre, and mixtures thereof.

25. The composition according to any one of claims 23 or 24, characterized in that the powder colorant is present in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one additive selected from waxes; paste-like lipophilic compounds; active agents such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, and B3; adenosine; hyaluronic acid and its salts; UV screening agents; fillers; film-forming agents; lipophilic gelling agents; fragrances; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

27. A method for lip makeup and / or care, characterized in that the method comprises at least applying to the lips a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

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