Composition comprising non-ionic surfactant, hydrocarbon-based oil, butter and wax

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular an anti-aging composition, comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, at least one Gubabu butter and at least one wax. The invention also relates to related methods and uses.

Description

Field of the Invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular an anti-aging composition, comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least one babassu butter and at least one wax. Background Art

[0002] Human skin consists of two parts, namely the surface part (epidermis) and the deep part (dermis).

[0003] Natural human epidermis mainly consists of three types of cells, which are predominantly keratinocytes, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes to the key role played by the skin in the body through its specific function. The dermis also provides firm support for the epidermis. It also provides nutrition for it. The dermis mainly consists of fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix, which itself mainly consists of collagen, elastin and a substance called ground substance (i.e., the components formed by fibroblasts).

[0004] Collagen fibers ensure the strength of the dermis and also ensure the elasticity and tension of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0005] Collagen fibers are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, leading to thinning of the dermis. In addition, various factors cause collagen degradation, having various conceivable effects on the structure and / or firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes. During the aging process, various characteristic signs appear on the skin, especially manifested by changes in the structure and function of the skin. The main clinical signs of skin aging are especially the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles that increase with age. These wrinkles and fine lines can be deep, medium or shallow, and appear as depressions or creases on the skin surface. In addition, volume loss is observed in the upper part of the face, especially in the cheekbones and cheeks.

[0006] Various solutions have been used to combat skin aging. Among them, a variety of cosmetic anti-aging compositions have been found. Some of these formulations include high contents of oils and waxes and generally have a dosage form that is too hard to pick up (sometimes difficult to remove), as well as a greasy and heavy texture, with slow penetration (i.e., they remain on the skin surface, which results in a loss of time for the consumer's daily beauty routine) or too fast penetration (i.e., the consumer does not have enough time to spread the film on the skin, resulting in non-uniform application on the skin). In addition, the films of these compositions are considered to be greasy, shiny, thick and residual.

[0007] To remedy this drawback, a powder (i.e., filler) is generally introduced into the composition. However, the combination of the film on the skin and the filler can produce fluff during application. This makes subsequent makeup application in the beauty routine difficult.

[0008] Therefore, there is a need for compositions that are soft in texture, easy to absorb, nourish, and cover, while having optimized penetration and not fluffing during application. In particular, even without using a filler, there is a need for a composition that forms a covering film on the skin, which is light, non-greasy, and has a matte appearance. Summary of the Invention

[0009] The inventors have now found that introducing babassu butter ( butter) and at least one wax (such as beeswax) into an oil-in-water emulsion imparts to the composition a nourishing and covering texture, while having optimized penetration. The film obtained on the skin is light and non-greasy, and does not fluff. Even without using a filler, the skin has a matte appearance. Finally, the composition is easy to remove and apply.

[0010] Accordingly, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:

[0011] at least one nonionic surfactant,

[0012] at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil,

[0013] at least one babassu butter, and

[0014] at least one wax.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic. Preferably, the composition is an anti-aging composition.

[0016] The term "oil-in-water emulsion" refers to a composition comprising an oil phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.

[0017] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the invention onto the keratin materials.

[0018] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention as an anti-aging composition. Detailed Description

[0019] Non-ionic surfactant

[0020] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant. Preferably, the composition comprises at least two nonionic surfactants.

[0021] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycols, alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycosides, and mixtures thereof.

[0022] The nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycols. In this case, preferably, it also comprises an additional surfactant selected from C 16 -C 22 esters of fatty acids and glycerol.

[0023] Preferably, the ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol is a C 16 -C 22 fatty acid ester comprising 8 to 200 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ester may in particular be selected from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmitoyl, cetyl structural units and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain.

[0024] The number of ethylene oxide units may vary between 8 and 200, preferably between 10 and 150, even better between 10 and 120. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the number may vary from 20 to 110.

[0025] As examples of esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycols, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising 20, 30, 40, 50 or 100 ethylene oxide units respectively, such as the products sold by CRODA under the trade names Myrj 49P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20OE; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40OE; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 or Myrj 59P.

[0026] The ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises an additional emulsifier selected from C 16 -C 22 esters of fatty acids and glycerol.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises esters of glycerol and fatty acids, which can be obtained in particular using acids comprising saturated straight-chain alkyl chains having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As esters of glycerol and fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (monoglyceryl stearate, diglyceryl stearate and / or triglyceryl stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the esters of glycerol and fatty acids used are selected from glyceryl stearate.

[0029] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the esters of glycerol and fatty acids may be present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight.

[0030] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 OE, and in particular a mixture comprising a 50 / 50 mixture, which is sold by Croda under the trade name Arlacel 165.

[0031] The nonionic surfactant may also be selected from alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycosides.

[0032] More specifically, these surfactants may be represented by the following general formula:

[0033] R1O-(R2O)t(G)v

[0034] wherein R1 is a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl and / or alkenyl containing about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, wherein the straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl residue comprises an alkylphenyl having 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 is an alkylene comprising about 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G is a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t represents a value in the range of 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 3; and v represents a value in the range of 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4.

[0035] It should also be noted that each unit of the glycoside moiety of the alkyl polyglycoside may be in the α-form isomer or β-form isomer in the L or D form, and the configuration of the sugar residue may be of the furanoside type or pyranoside type.

[0036] Mixtures of alkyl polyglycosides can of course be used, which can differ from one another by the nature of the alkyl units carried and / or by the nature of the glycoside carrier chain.

[0037] According to the specific embodiments, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is a compound having the general formula above, wherein R1 more specifically represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched alkyl group comprising 12 to 24 carbon atoms, t represents a value in the range of 0 to 3 and more particularly equals 0, G may represent glucose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e., the value of v in the general formula above, may be from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 4. More particularly, the average degree of polymerization is from 1 to 2.5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5, more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

[0038] The glycosidic bond between the sugar units is a 1-6 type glycosidic bond or a 1-4 type glycosidic bond, and preferably a 1-4 type glycosidic bond.

[0039] In particular, coconut (poly)glucoside (e.g., MONTANOV and MONTANOV ), arachidyl (poly)glucoside (e.g., MONTANOV ), myristyl (poly)glucoside (e.g., MONTANOV ), cetearyl (poly)glucoside (or ceteareth (poly)glucoside) (e.g., MONTANOV ), C12-C20 alkyl (poly)glucoside (e.g., MONTANOV ), isostearyl (poly)glucoside (e.g., Montanov WO ), or octyldodecyl (poly)xyloside (e.g., FLUIDANOV ) can be used.

[0040] Cetearyl (poly)glucoside is preferred, such as the commercially available product MONTANOV

[0041] Preferably, the content of the alkyl (poly)glycoside varies between 0.05% by weight and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1% by weight and 5% by weight, more preferably between 0.2% by weight and 5% by weight, and even better between 0.25% by weight and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of surfactants selected from esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol, esters of glycerol and C 16 -C 22 fatty acids, and alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycosides.

[0043] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol, at least one ester of glycerol and C 16 -C 22 a fatty acid, and a mixture of at least one alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycoside.

[0044] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic surfactants varies between 1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 2% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 4% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0046] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0047] "Oil" means a non-aqueous compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5 Pa) and is immiscible with water.

[0048] "Immiscible" means that, under the above temperature and pressure conditions, a mixture of equal amounts of water and oil will not produce a stable solution consisting of only a single phase after stirring. The mixture obtained after stirring with Rayneri, sufficient to cause vortices in the mixture (for information purposes, 200 rpm to 1000 rpm), is observed with the naked eye or, if necessary, using a phase contrast microscope. The resulting mixture is placed in a closed bottle and left to stand at ambient temperature for 24 hours before observation.

[0049] "Non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure that is not zero and is less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0050] "Hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that consists essentially of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain silicon or fluorine. Thus, hydrocarbon oils are different from silicone oils and fluorinated oils.

[0051] It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil does not contain heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur, and phosphorus.

[0052] In particular, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may comprise at least one alcohol functional group (in which case it is an "alcohol oil") or at least one ester functional group (in which case it is an "ester oil").

[0053] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention is selected from:

[0054] -C 10 -C 26 alcohols;

[0055] - Ester oils having 17 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably selected from:

[0056] * Monoesters having a total of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters having the formula R 1 COOR 2 wherein R 1 is the residue of a straight-chain, branched-chain or aromatic fatty acid having 4 to 40 carbon atoms, optionally saturated, and R 2 is a hydrocarbon chain having 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, provided that R 1 + R 2 is greater than or equal to 17; and

[0057] * Diesters having a total of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular diesters having the formula R' 1 COOR' 2 OOCR' 3 wherein R' 1 and R' 3 each represent the residue of a straight-chain or branched-chain (preferably straight-chain) fatty acid having 4 to 15 carbon atoms, and R' 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular a straight-chain hydrocarbon chain;

[0058] - Plant-based hydrocarbon oils;

[0059] - Straight-chain or branched-chain alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms; and

[0060] - Mixtures thereof.

[0061] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils according to the invention are selected from:

[0062] - C 10 -C 26 alcohol , preferably monohydric alcohols:

[0063] More specifically, the C 10 - C 26 alcohol is optionally saturated, optionally branched, and comprises 10 to 26 carbon atoms.

[0064] Preferably, the C 10 - C 26 alcohol is a fatty alcohol, preferably branched when the alcohol comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0065] As examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: straight-chain or branched-chain fatty alcohols of synthetic origin; or alcohols of natural origin, such as, for example, alcohols from vegetable substances (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal substances (tallow, etc.).

[0066] Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or so-called Guerbet alcohols.

[0067] Finally, long distillates of certain more or less naturally occurring alcohols can also be applied, such as, for example, coconut oil (C 12 to C 16 ) or tallow (C 16 to C 18 ) or compounds of the diol or cholesterol type.

[0068] Preferably, fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are used.

[0069] Preferably, as specific examples of fatty alcohols that can be used, mention may be made in particular of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyl decanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetearyl alcohol and / or octyldodecanol.

[0070] - Ester oils having 17 to 40 carbon atoms, selected from:

[0071] *Monoesters comprising a total of from 17 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters having the formula R 1 COOR 2 , where R 1 is the residue of a straight-chain, branched-chain or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, optionally saturated, and R 2 is a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched-chain hydrocarbon chain, provided that R 1 +R 2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetyl octanoate), cetearyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alcohol benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates of alcohols or polyols, decanoates of alcohols or polyols, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate.

[0072] Preferably, these are monoesters having the formula R 1 COOR 2 , where R 1 is the residue of a straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acid comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2is a hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, where R 1 and R 2 such that R 1 + R 2 is greater than or equal to 17.

[0073] As a preferred monoester, cetearyl isononanoate and / or isopropyl palmitate may be mentioned.

[0074] * Diesters in total comprising 17 to 40 carbon atoms, especially diesters having the formula R’ 1 COOR’ 2 OOCR’ 3 wherein, R’ 1 and R’ 3 each represent the residue of a straight-chain or branched-chain (preferably straight-chain) fatty acid comprising 4 to 15 carbon atoms, and R’ 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, especially a straight-chain hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, R’ 1 and R’ 3 are the same. As an example, 1,3-propanediol dioctanoate may be mentioned. Such diesters are especially sold by STEARINERIES DUBOIS under the name DUB Zenoat.

[0075] - Plant-based hydrocarbon oils, Such as liquid triglyceride fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), especially triglycerides of fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or jojoba oil; specifically, saturated triglycerides such as triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid and mixtures thereof (for example such as that sold by Cognis under the reference number Myritol 318), triheptanoin, trioctanoin, triglyceride of C 18-36 acid (such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois under the reference number DUB TGI 24) and unsaturated triglycerides (such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil).

[0076] - Straight-chain or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms:

[0077] As an example of an alkane suitable for the present invention, a mixture of alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms with a molecular weight of 200 g / mol to 250 g / mol may be mentioned.

[0078] Preferably, the alkane is branched.

[0079] Preferably, the alkane is of plant origin.

[0080] Preferably, the mixture used comprises 95% to 99% by weight of C15-C19 branched alkanes, relative to the total weight of the mixture, and 1% to 5% by weight of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of about 216 g / mol. Such a mixture is sold by Seppic under the reference number Emogreen L15.

[0081] Alternatively and preferably, the mixture used comprises 95% to 99% by weight of C15-C19 branched alkanes, relative to the total weight of the mixture, and a mixture of 1% to 5% by weight of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of about 248 g / mol. Such a mixture is sold by Seppic under the reference number Emogreen L19.

[0082] Alternatively, the mixture used contains 10% by weight of C15-C19 branched alkanes, relative to the total weight of the mixture, and 1% to 5% by weight of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture is sold by Seppic under the reference number Emosmart L19.

[0083] - and Mixtures thereof.

[0084] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil according to the present invention is selected from: C 10 -C 26 alcohols; monoesters having a total of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters having the formula R 1 COOR 2 wherein R 1 is the residue of a straight-chain, branched-chain or aromatic fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms, optionally saturated, and R 2 is a hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, provided that R 1 +R 2 is greater than or equal to 17; and mixtures thereof.

[0085] More preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil according to the present invention is selected from cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises 2% to 40% by weight, preferably 3% to 35% by weight, preferably between 4% and 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0087] Babassu butter

[0088] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one babassu butter.

[0089] Babassu butter is a butter of plant origin. It is considered a pasty fat substance.

[0090] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fat substance" refers to a lipophilic fat compound that has a reversible solid / liquid state change, has an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state, and comprises a liquid part and a solid part at a temperature of 23 °C.

[0091] In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty compound can be lower than 23 °C. The liquid part of the pasty compound measured at 23 °C can account for 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. Preferably, the liquid part at 23 °C accounts for 15% to 85% by weight, more preferably 40% to 85% by weight.

[0092] The melting point of the solid fat substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the trade name "DSC Q100", with "TA Universal Analysis" software, according to the protocol defined above.

[0093] More specifically, the liquid weight fraction of the pasty compound at 23 °C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

[0094] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed when the compound changes from the solid state to the liquid state. When the pasty compound is in the form of a solid crystal as a whole, the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state. When the pasty compound is in the liquid form as a whole, the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state.

[0095] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is in particular equal to the area under the thermogram curve obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0096] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C is the amount of energy required for the sample to change from the solid state to the state presented at 23 °C, which is a state composed of a liquid part and a solid part.

[0097] Babassu is a native plant of the Amazon rainforest and is rich in fatty acids.

[0098] The Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter (INCI name: Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter), in particular, is sold by BERACA INGR. NATURAIS (CLARIANT) under the name Rain forest RF3410.

[0099] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises from 0.1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter.

[0100] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one butter of plant origin other than Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter. Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one jojoba butter (INCI name: SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) BUTTER / SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS BUTTER).

[0101] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight of a butter of plant origin other than Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter (preferably jojoba butter).

[0102] Wax

[0103] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one wax.

[0104] "Wax" means a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25 °C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change and has a melting point of especially greater than or equal to 30 °C and less than or equal to 90 °C, more especially less than or equal to 80 °C, preferably less than or equal to 70 °C. The melting point of the solid fat substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the trade name "DSC Q100" and having the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

[0105] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0106] Place approximately 5 mg of the solid fat sample in a "sealed aluminum capsule" crucible. When the solid fat softens (pasty fat), subject the sample to a first heating process from 20 °C to 80 °C at a heating rate of 2 °C / minute and reach 80 °C, then hold isothermally at 80 °C for 20 minutes, then cool from 80 °C to -80 °C at a cooling rate of 2 °C / minute, and finally subject it to a second heating process from -80 °C to 20 °C at a heating rate of 2 °C / minute.

[0107] The melting temperature value of the solid fat is the value at the top of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, which represents the variation of the absorption power as a function of temperature. In particular, the polar waxes implemented in the compositions according to the invention have a melting temperature higher than 30 °C and preferably higher than 45 °C.

[0108] More particularly, the waxes are selected from polar waxes and non-polar waxes, especially hydrocarbon waxes. In particular, the polar waxes are ester hydrocarbon waxes, alcohol hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0109] The term "hydrocarbon wax" means a wax formed or composed essentially of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms and containing no silicon or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0110] According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester functional group. The ester wax may also be hydroxylated.

[0111] According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, i.e. a wax comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH). Additional alcohol waxes in particular do not include any ester functional groups.

[0112] The term "silicon oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular an oil comprising Si-O groups.

[0113] Ester wax

[0114] The following may in particular be used as ester waxes:

[0115] - Ester waxes such as those selected from:

[0116] i) Waxes having the formula R 1 COOR 2 wherein R 1 and R 2 are aliphatic straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, may contain heteroatoms (especially oxygen), and the melting temperature thereof varies between 30 °C and 120 °C, preferably between 30 °C and 100 °C. In particular, C 20 -C 40 (hydroxystearoxy)alkyl stearates (the alkyl group of which comprises 20 to 40 carbon atoms) or C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearates may be used alone or in mixture as ester waxes. Such waxes are in particular marketed by KOSTERKEUNEN under the names "Kester Wax ", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 ", "Kester Wax K 80 Sold as " or "KESTER WAX K82H". A mixture of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as the "Cetyl Ester Wax 814" product from KOSTERKEUNEN, "SP Crodamol MS PA", "SP Crodamol MS MBAL" from CRODA, and "Miraceti" from LASERSON.

[0117] Montanic acid esters (octacosanoates) of ethylene glycol and butylene glycol can also be used, such as the LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax sold by Clariant (INCI name: Ethylene glycol montanate);

[0118] ii) Di-(trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, sold by HETERENE under the name ;

[0119] iii) Diester waxes of dicarboxylic acids, having the general formula R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ), where R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and are C 4 -C 30 alkyl groups (including alkyl groups having 4 to 30 carbon atoms), and R 4 is a C 4 -C 30 straight-chain or branched aliphatic group (including alkyl groups having 4 to 30 carbon atoms), and which may optionally contain one or several unsaturated groups. Preferably, the C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group is straight-chain and unsaturated;

[0120] iv) Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having especially C 8 -C 32 straight-chain or branched fatty chains, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil; and waxes obtained by hydrogenating and esterifying castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold by SOPHIM under the names Phytowax ricin and . Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenating and esterifying olive oil with stearyl alcohol, mention may be made of those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18L 57";

[0121] v) waxes of vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, laurel leaf wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, especially refined;

[0122] vi) mention may also be made of waxes of natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyoxyalkenes or polyglycerols of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylene units (C2-C4) may vary between 2 and 100, and the number of glycerol units may vary between 1 and 20. By way of example, mention may be made of polyoxyethylene beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylene carnauba wax, such as PEG-12 carnauba wax; lanolin wax, optionally hydrogenated, polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, especially polyglycerol-3 beeswax, Acacia Decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax / polyglycerol-3 ester mixture; polyglycerol vegetable waxes, such as mimosa wax, jojoba wax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax / polyglycerol-3 ester);

[0123] vii) waxes corresponding to the partial or complete esterification (preferably complete esterification) of glycerol with C 16 -C 30 carboxylic groups (saturated, optionally hydroxylated). The term "complete esterification" means that all hydroxyl functional groups of glycerol are esterified. By way of example, mention may be made of glyceryl trihydroxystearate (or glycerol trihydroxystearate), glyceryl tristearate (or glycerol tristearate), glyceryl behenate (or glycerol behenate), used alone or in admixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triglycerides and 12-hydroxystearic acid or hydrogenated castor oil, such as, for example, Thixcin R, Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties;

[0124] viii) and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Alcohol waxes

[0126] As regards alcohol waxes, mention may be made of alcohols which are preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms and having a melting point between 25 °C and 90 °C. By way of example of alcohol waxes, mention may be made of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

[0127] Silicone waxes

[0128] As silicone waxes, mention may be made, for example, of mixtures comprising compounds of the C30-45 alkyldimethylsilylpropyl sesquioxane type (INCI name), such as the Dow Corning product SW-8005 C30 resin wax sold by Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of mixtures of the C30-45 alkyl polymethylsiloxane (INCI name) type, such as, for example, the Dow product AMS-C30 cosmetic wax. Mention may also be made of silicone beeswax.

[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, "non-polar hydrocarbon waxes" are waxes which in their structure comprise only carbon or hydrogen atoms. In other words, such waxes do not contain other atoms, in particular heteroatoms, such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen, silicon. To illustrate the non-polar waxes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes and especially polyethylene.

[0130] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar wax, preferably selected from waxes of plant origin such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, laurel leaf wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax and sunflower wax, especially refined.

[0131] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the wax content is from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight.

[0132] Aqueous phase

[0133] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium which forms a continuous aqueous phase. "Physiologically acceptable" means a medium which is compatible with keratinous materials.

[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium which comprises water and optionally an organic solvent which is soluble in water at 25°C, the organic solvent being selected, for example, from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols (such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol), polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0135] For the purposes of the present invention, a polyol refers to a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and carrying at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyol used in the present invention may have an average molecular weight less than or equal to 1000, and preferably 90 to 500. The polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic molecular structure.

[0136] The polyol can be selected from glycerol and its derivatives, and diols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerol, diglycerol, polyglycerol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycol (especially polyethylene glycol having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups), sugars (such as sorbitol), and mixtures thereof. More specifically, the polyol is glycerol.

[0137] Preferably, the composition includes water, at least one straight-chain or branched-chain C2-C4 alkanol, and at least one polyol.

[0138] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition includes at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight of water. Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition includes 50% to 95% by weight, preferably 55% to 80% by weight of water.

[0139] The amount of the organic solvent can be, for example, in the range of 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 25% by weight, and more preferably 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] The composition may further include at least one polymer, especially a hydrophilic polymer. Preferably, such a polymer is water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer.

[0141] Preferably, the water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer has a molar mass in the range of 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and preferably in the range of 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0142] As the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymer applicable to the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of a sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymer which is optionally crosslinked, such as the polymer used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate), a crosslinked polymer of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate), such as the product sold by Clariant under the trade name HOSTACERIN The product sold.

[0143] As the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymer according to the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of the following:

[0144] - Crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, such as those used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: 5302875857 Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7), or those used in the commercial product sold by SEPPIC under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isocetane / Polysorbate-80);

[0145] - Copolymers with vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as those used in the commercial products sold by CLARIANT under the trade name ARISTOFLEX (CTFA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer), but neutralized with soda or potash;

[0146] - Copolymers with sodium acrylate, such as, for example, AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymers, such as those used in the commercial products sold by SEPPIC under the trade name SIMULGEL or under the trade name SEPINOV EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer);

[0147] - Copolymers with hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as, for example / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, as in the commercial product SIMULGEL sold by SEPPIC Those used in commercially available products sold (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), or products sold under names such as sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercially available product SEPINOV EMT 10 (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer);

[0148] - Copolymers with ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, optionally crosslinked, such as HMS, named AMPS copolymer / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 EO) 80 / 20, crosslinked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or acryloyldimethylammonium taurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer with INCI name.

[0149] The aqueous phase of the composition may also include at least one additional surfactant other than nonionic surfactants. Preferably, the additional surfactant is selected from:

[0150] b) Anionic surfactants, such as:

[0151] Polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially those derived from alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof;

[0152] Phosphate esters and their salts, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N 10N from CRODA) or monopotassium dihydrogen hexadecyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);

[0153] Sulfosuccinates, such as "disodium PEG-5 dodecylsulfosuccinate citrate" and "disodium castor oil amide MEA sulfosuccinate";

[0154] Alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium dodecyl ether sulfate;

[0155] Hydroxyethyl sulfonates;

[0156] Acyl glutamic acids, such as "disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (Amisoft sold by AJINOMOTO ) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft sold by AJINOMOTO ) and mixtures thereof;

[0157] Derivatives of soybeans; such as potassium soyate;

[0158] Citrates, such as glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa);

[0159] Derivatives of proline, such as sodium palmitoylproline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or a mixture of sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and palmitoylproline (Sepifeel One from Seppic);

[0160] Lactates, such as sodium stearoyl lactate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);

[0161] Sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN), or a 75 / 25 mixture of stearoyl sarcosine and myristoyl sarcosine (Crodasin SM from Croda);

[0162] Sulfonates, such as sodium C14-17 alkyl secondary sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant);

[0163] Glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto);

[0164] C16-C30 fatty acid esters / salts, especially those derived from amines (such as triethanolamine stearate and / or amino-2-methyl-2-propanediol-1,3 stearate);

[0165] b) Amphoteric surfactants, such as N-acyl-amino acids (such as N-alkyl-aminoacetate / salts), disodium cocoamphodiacetate and amine oxides (such as stearamine oxide) or even silicone surfactants (such as polydimethylsiloxane copolyol phosphate / salts (such as the kind sold by PHOENIX CHEMICAL under the trade name PECOSIL PS ));

[0166] And mixtures thereof.

[0167] The composition according to the invention further comprises an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0168] In addition to non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and cupuacu butter, the composition comprises oils other than non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, organopolysiloxane elastomers or mixtures thereof.

[0169] Among the oils, silicone oils, volatile hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0170] The composition may further comprise at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

[0171] “Organopolysiloxane elastomer” or “silicone elastomer” refers to a soft and deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelasticity, particularly the consistency of a sponge or a soft sphere. Its elastic modulus enables the material to resist deformation and have limited extensibility and shrinkability. The material is capable of recovering its original shape after being extended. More particularly, the material consists of a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

[0172] Thus, an organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by the addition crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or, by the condensation dehydrogenation crosslinking reaction between a hydroxy-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, particularly in the presence of an organotin; or, by the condensation crosslinking reaction between a hydroxy-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or, by the thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, particularly in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst; or, by the crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation (such as γ-rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beams).

[0173] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by the addition crosslinking reaction of (A) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two silicon-bonded hydrogens and (B) a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, particularly in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in application EP-A-295886.

[0174] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting a dimethylvinylsilanyloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane with a trimethylsilanyloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0175] Compound (A) is a basic reagent for forming the organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking proceeds via the addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0176] Compound (A) is particularly an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, particularly a linear or branched structure or a cyclic structure.

[0177] The viscosity of compound (A) at 25 °C can be in the range of 1 centistoke to 50000 centistokes, particularly for miscibility with compound (B).

[0178] The organic group bonded to the silicon atom of compound (A) can be an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; a substituted alkyl group such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; an aryl group such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; a substituted aryl group such as phenylethyl; and a substituted monovalent hydrocarbon group such as epoxy group, carboxylate group or mercapto group.

[0179] Therefore, compound (A) can be selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogen siloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogen siloxane cyclic polymers.

[0180] Advantageously, compound (B) is a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., C2-C4); the lower alkenyl groups can be selected from vinyl, allyl and propenyl. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) can have a branched, linear, cyclic or network structure, but preferably a linear structure. Compound (B) can have a viscosity in the range from a liquid state to a colloidal state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 °C.

[0181] In addition to the above-mentioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atom of compound (B) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as epoxy group, carboxylate group or mercapto group.

[0182] The organopolysiloxane (B) can be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxane, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylethenylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane, dimethylethenylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylethenylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylethenylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane, and dimethylethenylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane copolymer.

[0183] Specifically, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0184] Advantageously, the total number of olefinic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0185] Advantageously, the amount of compound (A) added is such that the molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all olefinically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5:1 to 20:1.

[0186] Compound (C) is a catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatin-olefin acid complex, chloroplatin-vinylsiloxane acid complex, chloroplatin-diketo acid complex, platinum black and supported platinum.

[0187] Preferably, relative to the total amount of 1000 parts by weight of compounds (A) and (B), the amount of catalyst (C) added, calculated as pure platinum metal, is 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight.

[0188] The organopolysiloxane elastomer is advantageously an emulsified elastomer.

[0189] The term "emulsified" defines an organopolysiloxane elastomer containing hydrophilic chains, and in particular an organopolysiloxane elastomer containing polyalkylene oxide structural units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) and / or polyglycerol structural units.

[0190] Specifically, the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the present invention is polydimethylpolysiloxane / polyglycerol-3 cross-linked polymer-3 (INCI name).

[0191] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can be carried in the form of a gel composed of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are usually non-spherical particles.

[0192] The emulsified elastomers are specifically described in patents EP 242219, EP 285886, EP 765656 and application JP-A-61-194009. The organopolysiloxane elastomers are usually in the form of gels, pastes or powders, advantageously in the form of gels, in which the organopolysiloxane elastomers are dispersed in a linear (dimethylpolysiloxane) or cyclic (e.g., cyclopentasiloxane) silicone oil, advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

[0193] As the emulsified elastomer, it is more specific to use the emulsified elastomer sold by Shin Etsu under the trade name "KSG-710".

[0194] According to a specific embodiment, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil is used, wherein the silicone oil is selected from the non-exhaustive list including cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethylpolysiloxane, phenyldimethylpolysiloxane, phenyltrimethylpolysiloxane, and cyclomethicone; preferably selected from polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) or acyl silicone oil of dimethicone having a viscosity of 1 to 500 at 25 °C, optionally modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or modified with functional groups (such as hydroxyl, thiol, and / or amine groups).

[0195] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the total amount of the organopolysiloxane elastomer in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention accounts for 0.1% to 7% by weight, especially 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.6% to 4% by weight of the active substance content.

[0196] The composition according to the present invention may further include any additional ingredients well-known to those skilled in the art, such as preservatives, fragrances, fillers, vitamins, active agents, UV filters, and / or chelating agents.

[0197] Preferably, the chelating agent is selected from ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts. Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid is a compound of formula (II):

[0198] [Chem 1]

[0199]

[0200] Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinate salts are selected from alkali metal salts (such as potassium salts and sodium salts), ammonium salts, and amine salts. More particularly preferably, the alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are selected.

[0201] Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinate salt used according to the present invention is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate. Such a compound is, for example, the compound sold by Innospec Active Chemicals under the trade name E30 (the dispersion of this compound has 37% by weight of active substance in water), or the compound sold by Octel Performance Chemicals under the trade name Octaquest for sale.

[0202] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a chelating agent in the range of 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.06% to 0.7% by weight.

[0203] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleaning keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

[0204] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention as an anti-aging composition.

[0205] Specific but non-limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be provided.

[0206] In the examples, unless otherwise stated, the temperature is the ambient temperature (20 °C) expressed in degrees Celsius; unless otherwise stated, the pressure is atmospheric pressure.

[0207] In the examples, the amounts of the components of the composition are given as % by weight (% w / w) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] Example

[0209] In the examples, the compositions are prepared with the components mentioned in the following table according to the following protocol:

[0210] Components of the oil phase A (i.e., oil, jojoba butter, and surfactant);

[0211] Heated to 75 °C;

[0212] Dispersed until melted and completely dissolved;

[0213] The gelling agent and shea butter are added;

[0214] Then emulsified: the aqueous phase B is poured onto the oil phase at 75 °C, then dispersed to obtain an emulsion and cooled.

[0215] Phase C: The pre-mixed active agents are introduced together with some water, then the fragrance is introduced at 40 °C, and dispersed until an acceptable emulsion is obtained.

[0216] Phase D: Then the silicone elastomer is introduced at 35 °C.

[0217] Dispersed; at 30 °C, ethanol (phase E) is introduced.

[0218] Formulation A is according to the invention, while formulation B is comparative.

[0219] [Table 1]

[0220]

[0221]

[0222] The permeability of each formulation was measured using the following protocol:

[0223] 150 μL of each formulation was applied to the back of the hand and rotated once per second, and then the penetration time of each formulation was evaluated using a timer.

[0224] The optimal permeability is defined as follows: after measuring the permeability of various anti-aging formulations, based on consumer ratings, the optimal permeability was found to be between 19 seconds and 25 seconds.

[0225] The results are as follows:

[0226] [Table 2]

[0227]

[0228] As shown in the results, the presence of beeswax and butter in Formulation A according to the present invention enables the achievement of an optimal penetration rate, that is, the penetration rate is not too fast (so that consumers have enough time to apply it to the face), but also not too slow (so as to feel the covering, nourishing and firming effects of the formulation). If the penetration rate is too fast, then the formulation will not be evenly applied to the face and will not be very comfortable for the consumer, who needs to stretch it to apply it. The permeability of Comparative Formulation B is not ideal.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably at least two nonionic surfactants, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least one cupuaçu butter, and at least one wax.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, the nonionic surfactant is selected from esters of fatty acids and polyethylene glycols, alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycosides, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein, The ester of the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol is a C containing 8 to 200 ethylene oxide units 16 -C 22 fatty acid ester; relative to the total weight of the composition, the ester of the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.8% to 3% by weight; and preferably the composition further comprises an additional surfactant selected from the esters of C 16 -C 22 fatty acids and glycerol.

4. The composition according to claim 2, wherein, the alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycoside has the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t(G)v where R1 is a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl and / or alkenyl containing about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and the straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl residue includes an alkylphenyl having 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 is an alkylene containing about 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G is a sugar structural unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t represents a value in the range of 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, more preferably 0 to 3; and v represents a value in the range of 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4; preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the content of the alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycoside is 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better still 0.25% to 3% by weight.

5. The composition according to claim 2 or 4, wherein, the alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycoside is selected from coconut (poly)glucoside, arachidyl (poly)glucoside, myristyl (poly)glucoside, cetylstearyl (poly)glucoside, C12-C20 alkyl (poly)glucoside, isostearyl (poly)glucoside, and octyldodecyl (poly)xyloside.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of at least one ester of a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol and at least one alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycoside; preferably, the composition comprises at least one ester of a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol, at least one alkyl C8-C30 (poly)glycoside and at least one additional surfactant selected from glycerol and esters of C 16 -C 22 -C fatty acids.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from: C 10 -C 26 alcohol; ester oils having 17 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably selected from: Monoesters containing a total of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, especially monoesters having the formula R 1 COOR 2 wherein R 1 is the residue of a straight-chain, branched-chain or aromatic fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, optionally saturated, and R 2 is a hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, provided that R 1 +R 2 is greater than or equal to 17; and Diesters containing a total of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular diesters having the formula R’ 1 COOR’ 2 OOCR’ 3 , where R’ 1 and R’ 3 each represent the residue of a straight-chain or branched-chain (preferably straight-chain) fatty acid containing 4 to 15 carbon atoms, and R’ 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular a straight-chain hydrocarbon chain; plant-based hydrocarbon oils; straight-chain or branched-chain alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The non-volatile hydrocarbyl oils according to the invention are selected from: C 10 -C 26 alcohols; monoesters having a total of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters having the formula R 1 COOR 2 wherein R 1 is the residue of a straight-chain, branched-chain or aromatic fatty acid having 4 to 40 carbon atoms, optionally saturated, and R 2 is a hydrocarbon chain having 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, provided that R 1 + R 2 is greater than or equal to 17; and mixtures thereof; preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbyl oils are selected from cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises between 0.1% and 40% by weight of cupuaçu butter, preferably 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight of cupuaçu butter.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition comprises at least one wax, the at least one wax is selected from especially polar and non-polar waxes of hydrocarbon groups, preferably selected from ester hydrocarbon waxes, alcohol hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and mixtures thereof; preferably, the wax is selected from waxes of plant origin, more preferably beeswax.

11. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, said composition further comprising at least one butter of plant origin other than bacuri butter, preferably at least jojoba butter; preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of a butter of plant origin other than bacuri butter, preferably jojoba butter.

12. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an optional organic solvent soluble in water at 25°C, selected from, for example, straight-chain or branched-chain alkanols of C2-C4, such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol, polyols and mixtures thereof; preferably, the composition comprises at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 55% to 80% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, in addition to the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and bacuri butter, said composition comprising at least one compound selected from oils other than the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, organopolysiloxane elastomers and mixtures thereof.

14. A method for the cosmetic care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising applying the composition according to one of the preceding claims to said keratin materials.

15. Cosmetic use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 13 as an anti-aging composition.

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